1 cup plus 1 tablespoon wholemilk2 teaspoons kosher salt
c
cup plus 1
c
teaspoonsgranulated sugar8 ounces (2 sticks) unsaltedbutter1 cup plus 2 tablespoonsall-purpose flour, sifted3 extra-large eggs1 extra-large egg yolk2 to 3 quarts vegetable oil, forfrying
b
teaspoon ground cinnamonHot chocolate (recipe follows)
321
MENU 27/CHURROS Y CHOCOLATE
Churros and chocolate have a long history at Lucques, and an even longerone in Spain, where they dominate the dessert scene in late-night cafés. The hotchocolate is made thick and syrupy sweet, meant for dipping the piping-hotcrullers.In preparation for one Spanish-themed Sunday supper, my former pastry chef Kimberly Sklar experimented with traditional churro recipes from Spanish cook-books. Though the flavors were good, the Spanish versions seemed a little tooheavy and not tender enough for our liking. Then Kim tried a batch of
pâte à choux,
the traditional French dough used to make such pastries as cream puffs andéclairs. It was the perfect solution.Next we set out to conquer the chocolate. Again, in my opinion, the tradi-tional Spanish hot chocolate was better in theory than in reality. Spaniards lovesugar, and their version is just too sweet for my taste. Still thick and rich in the veinof the traditional
chocolate,
ours is super-chocolaty but not as cloyingly sweet.I like to add a generous pinch of salt, to play up the bittersweet notes of thechocolate.This is a festive, interactive dessert that requires some last-minute attentionwhen it’s time to fry the churros. Make the batter and hot chocolate ahead, and just before you serve dessert, invite your friends into the kitchen to help you fry.It’s fun to watch the dough transform into deep golden brown snakes and then toroll them in the glittery cinnamon-sugar.
NOTE
The batter for the churros can be made up to 8 hours in advance but
must
bemade at least 2 hours ahead. You will need a pastry bag fitted with a number-4 star tipto pipe the churros into the hot oil.
Bring the milk, 1 cup plus 1 tablespoon water, salt, 1
c
teaspoons sugar, andthe butter to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Remove the panfrom the heat, and add all the flour at once. Stir together with a wooden spoon,and return the pan to the stove over low heat. Work the batter back and forth, stir-ring with a wooden spoon, to dry the batter. When the dough begins to roll awayfrom the sides of the pan, cook another 5 minutes.
churros y chocolate
Transfer the batter to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attach-ment. With the mixer running at low speed, drop the eggs and egg yolk in one byone, waiting for each to be incorporated before adding the next. Let the batter restat least 2 hours in the refrigerator before using.Heat the oil to 350
°
F on a deep-frying thermometer, over medium heat, in aheavy wide-bottomed pan.Place the dough in a pastry bag fitted with a number-4 star tip. (You mayhave to do this in batches.)Combine the cinnamon and remaining
c
cup sugar in a bowl.Squeeze 4-inch-long pieces of dough into the oil. Don’t overcrowd the pan;the churros shouldn’t be touching. Fry the churros 2 to 3 minutes, turning themgently with tongs once or twice to brown all sides. Test one to make sure the cen-ter is done. It should be cooked all the way through and have a crisp exterior andsoft center.Drain the churros on paper towels, and pat to remove any excess oil. Whilethey’re still hot, roll each churro in the cinnamon sugar, and serve right awaywith cups of the hot chocolate for dipping.
hot chocolate
Place the chocolate in a double boiler and melt over medium heat. Whisk in
a
cup hot water to incorporate.Sift the cocoa powder into a large mixing bowl. Whisk in about 2 table-spoons milk, to form a paste. Whisk in the rest of the milk, the cream, vanilla,and salt.Whisk the milk-and-cocoa mixture into the melted chocolate, and transfer toa medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over low heat, whisking continuously.
4 ounces bittersweet chocolate,coarsely chopped2 tablespoons unsweetenedcocoa powder1 cup whole milk1 cup heavy cream2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
a
teaspoon kosher salt
322
WINTER/MENU 27
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Suzanne Goin's Churros y Chocolate Recipe
From Suzanne Goin's superb cookbook, Sunday Suppers at Lucques, a delicious winter recipe: churros and hot dipping chocolate.
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