MARCH 2011 US $4.99 CARIBBEANTRAVELMAG.

COM

Il

anytime dining at up to l2 gourmet restaurants and 8 bars

While other resorts may claim to offer multiple restaurant choices, what they're really offering are food courts disguised as different restaurants. Only Sandals includes anytime gourmet dining at up to 12 true restaurants per resort, all offering separate kitchens, a unique ambiance and top chefs expertly trained in that specific cuisine, In fact, specialty restaurants have become our specialty and, unlike cruise lines and other all-inclusive resorts. we don't charge extra for them. So you're literally free to embark on a culinary Journey that lets you enJOY authentic cuisine from around the world. Dine any time you want, 24/7. It's all included. And so are premium brand liquors served at up to 8 bars per resort, from swim-up bars to piano bars to authentic British pubs. Sandals pours only the best brands, so you can order any drink, anytime you want.

including waterskiing

unlimited scuba diving and golf

Any all-inclusive resort can claim to include watersports. But only Sandals includes every waters port under the sun, including motorized watersports' like waterskiing, and unlimited scuba diving". Not only does Sandals include it all, but we also use MasterCraft® premium performance ski boats and customized Newton dive boats, recognized as the best in the industry. Sandals offers the largest, most comprehensive dive program in the Caribbean, with the very best equipment, staff and dive sites, and it's all included. And only Sandals includes unlimited greens fees at some of the Caribbean's finest courses. Sandals Golf & Country Club in Ocho Rios is ranked among the best by Golf Digest, and Sandals Golf Club in Saint Lucia combines awe-inspiring views with exhilarating play. We have every land sport imaginable-and best of all, it's all included.

"Available at select resorts.T'or non-certified divers, resort certification course available for a nominal fee.

Land & waters ports include

• Choice of up to 6 dive excursions per day

• More snorkeling excursions

than any other resort

• Wakeboarding"

• Stand Up Paddle Boards

• Kayaking

• Hobie'" cat and Sunfish@ Saiting

• Glass-bottom boat tours"

• Windsurfing

• Knee boarding

• Tennis

• Squash/racquetball

• Volleyball

• Billiards, table tennis & darts

• Fitness centers with LifeFitness equipment

Only Sanda'ls includes more luxury, quality & choices

A Sandals Luxury included" Vacation gives you everything you'd find at any 5-Star luxury resort; the only difference is everything is INCLUDED! So you not only get what you'd expect, you get fa r more than you ever dreamed of in quality, choice, luxury and service, Sandals includes more exciting choices on land and sea-from unlimited golf with complimentary greens tees" to motorized watersportst such as waterskiing and wake boarding. Our scuba diving program is the Caribbean's most comprehensive and includes unlimited diving with top-of-the-line equipment.

Unlike cruise lines and other all-inclusives that force you to dine at pre-set times, Sandals includes anytime dining at up to 12 true specialty restaurants per resort, each with a different ambiance- not as part of a food court- and all with top chefs that specialize in each cuisine. When it comes to luxury accommodations. Sandals offers far more choices than anyone else, including the most unique and creatively designed suites in the world. Plus, Sandals are the only resorts to include personal butlers trained by the Guild of Professional English Butlers. The fact is, no other luxury vacation in the world gives you more than Sandals, and it's the Luxury lncluded=Difference that makes all the difference in the world.

Welcome To The Caribbean.

Welcome To Our Home.

When you're looking for the very best Caribbean experience, come to the resorts that know the Caribbean best.

Myfamily and I have been swimming and fishing in these crystal-clear waters and enjoying all the simple pleasures of island life for generations.

Nowhere else will you find such breathtaking beaches. vibrant botanical gardens, warm and caring people, and every pleasure in paradise that creates a truly unforgettable vacation, Our unique and luxurious accommodations, endless choices in gourmet dining, exciting land and watersports, and the highest standards of service are what sets us apart. We've taken the best of the Caribbean, added the best of everything else and included it all! Only Sandals provides more quality inclusions than any other resorts on the planet.

This is our Caribbean; it is our home. We invite you to come share it with us,

1-800-SANDALS • sandals.com

All that's good!

'Golf not included in the Bahamas and Antigua. 'Motorized sports available at select resorts.

It's time to warm up together and chill out on the perfect Luxury lncludedwvacation. Where all the fun under the Caribbean sun is included on the softest, white-sand beaches. Best of all, we make everyone's dreams come true. From huge fantasy pools, to awesome waterparks, and The Cariooean Adventure with Sesame Strcet,® unlimited Xbox 36()® Game Garage, teen nightclubs, scuba diving'" for every age group and gourmet dining at up to 16 restaurants. Plus, enjoy the exclusive Red Lane® Spa." It's all waiting for you in Turks & Caicos and Jamaica.

"-For uon-certilred divers, resort dive cerrtncation course ~\'(1\l;jjlble at additional cos t. "Spa services additional. UlliqucVacatiOtis.,I,'t .. is tlit' worldwide representative ror' Be(tches R(;;OI'i:s.

B,,,,," es Turk> & Ceicos=-Recipient of Voted World', I.c.ding Family A II.J nclusive

the S;x Star Diamond Award 13 Year, in, RQ"

Call Your Trave1 Agent or

1 - 800- BEACHES • beaches.com

TURKS & CAICOS • JAMAICA

The Italian M"lZ 1 age and lMlterpark at Beaches Turks & Csicos

OUR CARIBBEAN

o The sixth annual Maya Day festival takes place in Beliz.e this March. Organized by the community agency Tumul K'i n Centre of Learning, which is dedicated to preserving Maya culture and history, it indudes activities such as a traditional dancing competition and a tortillagrinding demo. Dates for 2011 weren't available at press time; go to tumulkinbelize.org/culture.html for more info.

(J V {, /.

or UF\ICO

Canrun

Cazumel

MEXICO

Rlvl~ra Maya

Cos.taMaya

FLORIDA

G.and Bahama

Great Abaeo

Bimini

.I

. ....

Andros

(<lyman Islands

Ambergris Caye

CARIBBEAN SEA

BELIZE

o

Roatan

GuanaJa

Utlla

GUATEMALA

HONDURAS

EL SALVADOR

NICARAGUA

fJ It's a party on and off the water at the 31st annual St. Maarten Heineken Regana. March 3 to 6. An average of 250 boats from 32 countries participate, and

at the end of each race day, the action moves to the shoreline, where acts such as Maxi Priest entertain until the wee hours. heinekenregatta.com

COSTA RIC A

Jamaica

Provi de nei a

@ Each year, Grenada's northern pa rish of St. Patrick pays tribute to its namesake with a celebration of the feast of St. Patrick. A week of activities culminates on March 17. the saint's official feast day. Events include exhibitions of local art and crafts and plenty of snacks and libations. grenadagrenadi nes.com

San Andres

6 CARIS SEAN TRAVEL+ LIFE

CAR IS8EANTRAVELM AG.COM

ATLAl\'TI(, OCEAI\'

Bermuda (rnltt{jJ:;taIE)

San Salvador

o On the Cover As beaches go, it doesn't get much better than this: 12 unbroken miles of sunbaked sand fringed by a warm turquoise sea. Our intrepid staff photographer Zach Stovall strapped on a parasail to get this blrd's-eve

view of Grace Bay Beac h, on Providencialesin

~' the Turks and Caicos Islands, but you needn't

!'! go to such lengths (or more accurately, heights)

to fully appreciate this sublime stretch. Just pull up a beach chair, slap on some sunscreen and enjoy. (And for 10 more beautiful beaches to park your bum, turn to page 36.)

Lonslsland

Tu rks + C a I(o!;

Great! nagu a

-

Haiti

Dominican Republic

Culebr~ Vleque.5

St. Thomas St.John Tortola

I Vi rgin Gorda Angu illa

St. Martin 8 St. Barts Saba

St. Croix St. Eustatlus

St.Kitts 0 Nevis

Barbuda

Puerto Rico

Antigua

o Feeling fit? See if you can beat the record of 1 :05:21 set at the StarMile 2.5 Nevis-St. Kitts Cross Channel Swim last March. Participants in this year's swimoff, scheduled for March 27, needn't have the prowess of Michael Phelps, though; athletes as young as 9 and as old as 73 have completed the race and I ived to tell the tale. nevisisland.com

Montserrat

,

Guadeloupe

Dominica

CARIBBEAN SEA

Martinique

St. Lucia

St. Vincent, + the Grenadl'nes

Barbados

(ula~ao

Bonaire

Grenada

o

Los Roques

Margarita Island

Tort USa

Trinidad

COLOMBIA

VENEZUELA

MARCH 2011

CARIB8EAN TRAVEL+LIFE 7

CONTENTS

"How does a person find the mix of cultures that makes Aruba what it is today? It's just a matter of opening

your eyes.

pg.54

Ii Places in the Sun

You want beaches? We've got 'em. Discover sun-kissed coves in the Exumas, a palm-lined strand on Tobago and eight more sandy spots we consider to be the region's best.

46The Inn Crowd

From refurbished sugar mills to seaside plantations, the historic inns of St. Kitts and Nevis are as unique as the island s themselves. » By Ian Keown and Debbie Snow

5 Searching for Papiamento

Aruba's heritage is often over looked bu t easy to find; its distinctive and diverse culture leaves an imprint everywhere you turn. )) By Rich Rubin; photos by Penny de los Santos

64 Island Outposts

If you've ever dreamed of running away to live 011 an island - and le t's face it, who hasn't? - the Caribbean offers real estate options to fulfill any fantasy.

8 CARI88EA N TRAVEL+ LIFE

CAR 188EANTRAVELM AG,COM

The island combines the beauty of the Caribbean, a lush tropical jungle and the wonderful heritage of the Mayan civilization. Isla Mujeres stands out as one of Mexico's natural treasures, the place where the sun first shines on Mexico each day ... a truly delightful paradise!

ISLA MUJfRfS

tt RIRI tDurr. n

THE PLACE YOU lHOUGHT YOU ~NEW

CONTENTS

Guidebook

17 Just Back N egril, Jamaica, charms sun worshippers and solitude seekers alike.

20 local Flavor Follow your nose - and a steady stream of locals - to these tasty taquerias on Mexico's Riviera Maya.

22 Happy Hours Doing good never fel t so good as it does at this affable st. John, USVI, watering hole.

24 Day Trip Saddle up and take a twowheel tour through San Juan, Puerto Rico's hippest neighborhoods.

2.6 Affordable Pinching euros is pas de probleme with these St. Martin savings.

28 Hot Deals It's you r turn to go on spring break wi th one of these great deals.

30 Rare Finds Step back in time at a hidden gem on Barbados' rugged east coast.

Journal

32. Festival Racing ruminants go for gold at Tobago's quirkiest sporting event.

34 Profile Statia's resplendent orchids bloom under Hannah Madden's care.

10 CA RI88EAN TR AV El+LIFE

Our Caribbean Editor's Letter Essentials: Aruba

Essentials: st. Kitts and Nevis Itinerary

17

In This Issue

Anguilla 44

Aruba 54

Bahamas 40

Barbados 30, 70

Barbuda 37

Cayman Islands

Grand Cayman.. .. ........ 38

Dominican Republic

Cabarete 44

Honduras

Roatan 43

Jamaica

Negri! 17,. 39

Port Antonio 39

Mexico

Riviera Maya 20

NeVIS 48

Puert.o Rico 24. 90

St. Eustatlus 34

St, Kitts... . 48

St. Martin 26, 45, 68

Tobago 32, 42

TUrks and Cakos . .. '66

USVI

St.John 22

z

s

N Z « U

o

"'

Q

CAR I 8BEANTRAVELM AG.COM

Delight in Sun and Savings with this exclusive package at participating Starwood Resorts throughout the Caribbean and receive the following:

• Complimentary night

• Resort credit

• Room ugpgrade

YOU; DESERVE.

TH,E.BEST

Register now and begin your journey to a unique Caribbean

experience. Each membership includes a !liSOOaircredit.

Register and use your credit at any 01 our authentic Caribbean beachfronts resorts.

Editor SaJah Greaves·Gabbadcn

UIlTORIA~ De puty Editor Cynt hi~ Psar~kis Features Ed ito r Ma tth ew Miller Managing Editor Rebetca strauss Contri butl ng Editor De bb le Snow Copy Ed i tor (rysta I Bilodeau

CONTR I B'llTORS ch rlstn ph er R. Cox, Bat D rei singer.

Ian Keown, Bob Morris.

Rkh Rubin, James S(hnepf.

St~ve Simonsen, David Swanson

[hal rman Jonas Bon n Ie r Chief E>ecutive Offi,er Terry Snow Chief Fina n d a I 0 Ifi ce rRan!la II Koube k SVP. C orporate Sal es & M a rke ti n & Ma rk Wll!lf!'lan Vice Pres id e nt, Co nsu mer Marketi ng Bruce MillE r Vice Presl dent. Productio n Lis~ Ea rlyw i ne Vice Pre s id e nt, E·M e di'a B ill Allm~n Vice Pres iden t. Dig ita I Sa lss & M arketi ng John Haski n Vice Pre sid e nt. En terpri se Systems .S hawn ta rson Vice President. Human Rescurces (athy Hertz Vi ce Presi dent, Corporate Co rn rn u n i ca ti ons D ea n TII('o I Vi,e President. Media Development Michael Starobln Brand D i rector J 0 h n Miller Corpor a te F ac i llties Di rector DE bbi e Drago ne Pu blishing Consulta nt Ma rti n S. Wal ker C orpo ra Ie Counse I Jeremy Thom PSOIl

EDITO RIAL I ADVE RTISING OFFIC E S Bonnier Corp, 460 N, Orlando Ave .. SUite 200 W1nter Park, FL 32789 407·628·4802 Fax: 407·628"7061 Employment opportunities at bcnntercoro.com subsc rip tions: 800·588·1689: cenbbeentravelrnagconvcs A rtlcle REl'ri n 15: Fo r content reu se and perm i s· si on s. pie ase eo rrta ct B ria n Kolb at Wrig ht's Me di a: bkol b@wrightsreprints.com or 877·652·5295.

Submi'ssions: Publisher assumes no responsibillty for care and return of unsolltlted m etere Is, i nduding man uscrlpts and ph otos, Occasionallv, we' make portions of our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services we think may be of interest to you. If vou do not wont to receive these offers. please advise us at 800·588·1689

@

ii=lEFC

The caner U5.E'd lor this rnagazne cernes from {ertlfled: teres ts that are managed, ill a sus.taiPlaote wav to [11 Ere t the social. eccrcmc tin d en ... ir~men:L~l Meets of present M d ('<'[we g.;;nerMions.

ART

Art Director Victor Maze Photo Ed itorKa te Mi (

Staff Photographers Zath Stovall, Jonathan WI>ittle

PIlODUCTUlN

Gro up Prod u ct i on Di recto r JEff C~ssell

Senior Production Manager MI'l'Iell~ Doster

Advert.ising Desi8 n Di rector SUZa n ne Oberhol tzer Production Artists Julla Arana, Somme, HalfMd (offln, Shelley Easte •• Willy Frol

Guy Britton Publisher 561·775·2600, guy.bri tton@bonnierwrj).;om

CAIlIBBE:AN

J uti e Kin rl! d ge A ng u ilia. Cayman] sian ds, 5 t. Barts, ~t. Lucia, 51. Maarten" 5t_ Martin, Turks and Calms

81]·877·6959. I u lie, kilt redge@bonnlermrp_com

Kerry Neujal>, Antigua, Aruba, Belize, Bonaire. Cura,ao, Guadeloupe, Jamaica, Martinique, USVI

407" 571·4 898, kerry.neujahr@bonniercorp,com

Jennifer Dowell Bahamas, Barbados, BVI, Trinidad and Tobago: 786·523·939], jenn lie r_dowell@'bonniermrp.com

Di~llne Smith Belize, Dominica .• Grenada. 51. Kitt, and Nevis, St. vlncent and the Grenadines. USVI

407" 571"4953. d iannesmith@bonniercorp.com Ami Colee Island Marketplace

407· 571·4712, am I,colee@bonnle.mrpJ:om

LATIN CARIB BEA N • MEXI'CO

(a ro I Johnson Regl ona I Director

gO 8· 2Zl·9122, ca ro 1.10 h n so n@bonnlercorp_com

AUyson A rtl>~mb a u It Pue rto Rico

407·571·4706. a llyso n, a rc h ernba u It@bonnierwrp,com

Valerie Aguilar Isla Muleres, Riviera Maya

805·452· 0 579. valerle.agu i lar@bonniercorp,com

Viveca Caldara Cancun, Costa Maya, Cozumei,

Do mi n i cen Rep u buc, Hand u ra S

407" 461 "93 3 8, vlvece.ce Idara@bonniereorp,com

TRAVfLGROUP

Gro up Pub Ii sh er Sue Gil man

Director, Ad Support Ba.b~ra Lanning Group Brand Director, Content Chris Tauber Co nsumer M a~keting Director ne na hve n Group Marketing Director Debbie P~rker Events Di rector Kat H~~tk

Ma rket i ng Ma neger J en Kugle r Marketing Specialist Maggie strasset Ma rket i ng S pe c i aus t C h a rles NEgron Marketing Specialist Mary Stonecypher Onl i ne D i rector J ennifE r An d ersn n

Online Business Development Specialist .AimEe Porter Onli n e Ad S pe ci a list Ama nd a Ha rels

Onl i n e Prod ucer B r~ndOIl Pike

Onl i n e Prod ucer Vi ncent A nze IIi n i

S en i or Producer, E" mail Pa trick R ~ffErty Multimedia Editor Reagan Johnson Online Editcr, Features Julie Wllson

Online Editor, New' & So,ial Media Katrina King Online Editor. E·m~il Todd Weise

12 CARIBBEAN TRAVEL+LIFE

CARIB8E ANTRAVELM AG,COM

THE PlA E YOU THOUGHT YOU KNEW

i\ Id II !'.:h· swi m

in "'l'iIl:klin g il.i':U rc waters.

A <soo~hil1i! m .. ,,~gc 011 rOllr own private balcony.

An. aJh;!rI1C1otl <'p~llt >I,wJ.o.q at the sun-spla"hc(1 t,lantic witb not <I cruise "hip

ur <ll.:tlfl: ill -j I~L The.._ aml~ at Grace Bay orIer", j] wLJ.~ati!,iylJ;.g tranquility 1l1on~ WId] IJ13pirc{1 cuisine, conshlcrolb~ service am.! illi rnu.:h. - or il littleactivity as you choo~\!.

providcl1cia IIC!'. Ttl rk~ & -t il icos I.'i" ~1't:('l't:'J'Il1.t tirr -;(1 :J(' prti rAIJ' .)It! I-C~'/I t

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sec rom hawl pl'Ofl·~.sional or call

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EDITOR'S LETTER

Office Space

It's a tough job, but you know what they say ...

As I WRITE THIS I'M ON PROVO, in the Turks and Caicos Islands, ensconced on a chaise on Grace Bay beach. In front of me the sea is a shimmering swath of blue, from brightest turquoise to dee pes t sapphire. As foamy waves recede from the shore, they leave tawny peaks on the 12- mile-long white-sand expanse, which is stippled with the footprints of long-gone strollers. The silken floret of a brightly colored parasail blossoms in the sky, and a warm breeze, redolent of sea salt and suntan lotion, ripples through the stand of casuarina trees behind me. A not too hot sun benevolently warms my shoulders, and sand as soft and fine as confectioners' sugar dusts my toes.

Yep, it's just another day at the office. We CT+L staffers are lucky enough to call the beach our workplace (hard life, we know), but we recognize that it's also your playground, the featured attraction of the sun-soaked escape you've been craving all year. Which is why we take our mission to discover and direct yo u to the best Carib bean shores very serious ly, In this year's "Ultimate Beaches" feature, we're sharing our favorites: those places that we edi tors rave about to each other when we return from assignment, the sandy strips we'd choose to hang out on whether someone was paying us to or not. So flip to page 36 right now and spend a few minutes lapping up the lust-worthy photos. Take your time - we'll wait.

Back with us? OK, now how do you feel? Ready for a Caribbean getaway? As if you just took a virtual tropical vacation? If either answer applies, we're glad to hear it. Because with every issue (and online at caribbeantravelmag.corn and on our TV show, Best of the Caribbean),

we aim to bring you a generous dollop of the Caribbean's fascinating sigh ts, zesty flavors and unique experiences - wherever you happen to be.

And this mon th, if we may say so ourselves, we really deliver. We take you biking through the streets of San Juan, Puerto Rico; spend a day at the (goat) races on Tobago; mee t the Orchid Queen ofSt. Eustatius: belly up to one of the bestloved bars on St. John, USVI; and dine in a candlelit cave in Negril, Jamaica - all before you get to those beaches we promised. Then we show you a hidden side of Aruba and check out the intimate inns of St. Kitts and Nevis. And if by the time you've read that far you're considering picking up and moving to the Carib bean, you're in luck: On page 64 we introduce you to some like-minded folks who've bought their own pieces of paradise.

So kick off those winter boots, pour yo urself a pifia colada and start reading. We bet it won't be 10 ng before you begin plotting your own Caribbean retreat. It's easy: Just book a flight and pack a bag, and we'll see you at the office.

SA R AHG R E AVES~GA 8 BADO N EDITOR editor@caribbeantravelmag.com

COR flECTION In Just Back in our February 2011 issue we misidentified Dean's Blue Hole on Long Island, Bahamas, as Blue Hole on Grand Bahama, We regret the error.

14 C ARI88E AN TRAVE L+ll FE

CARIB8E ANTRAVELMAG.COM

•

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"

t 1 S

Y?l~I'orlJ' &:: r-foa.1'

• •

Enjoy our world of Unlimtted-Luxury" where everything is included .

Featuring oceanfront settings, elegant accommodations, day and evening activities with supervised Explorer's Club for kids and so much more.

••

Call your travel professional or visit Dreamskcsorts.com

Be one with the captivatina. Be one with this Caribbean qateway to the Maya world. Be one with this Hemisphere's laraest barrier reef As one of the last unspoiled places.you'll feel an intimate connection r to authentic experiences in Belize. AU just a two-hour flight from the U.S., in the only Enalish~speakin8 country of Central America. Call 800-624-0686 or visit TropelBelize,ora/ctl, And just be, in Belize.

--'

--'

:;

o ....

"' I

U

'" N

Double Happiness

In Negril, Jamaica, quiet cliffside inns and bustling beach hotels offer the best of both worlds.

B AD EIGHTIES ROCK BLARES OVER THE SOUND SYSTEM AS THE

crowd of onlookers thickens at the water's edge. Above them, a sunburned woman wearing a black bathing suit that looks as though it's been shredded by a tiger's claw teeters on a small stone platform set into the cliff, working up the courage to launch herselfinto the sparkling blue water 30 feet below .. Nervously she peers over the edge. She hands her Red S tripe to her husband, steps off the pla tform and literally takes the plunge, shrieking at the top of her lungs the whole way down. It's a scene that's been playing out for 37 years at Rick's Cafe, the classic Negril happy-hour hot spot that clings to the cliffs like a beau ty mark on the wes ternmos t end of this, the westernmost city in Jamaica. The affable bar is famous for the island's best sunset views, but even more so for its pre-dusk entertainment: tipsy tourists leaping into the sea and Rick's own crew of toned expert divers, who somersault into the water from heigh ts of up to

MARCH 2011

100 feet, encouraged by the cheers (and tips) of the mesmerized crowd.

Sunset at Rick's is a must-do experience in this laid-back resort town, which has drawn sun-seeking bohemians since the 1970s. Today there's only one pressing decision facing visitors: whether to stay on the sandy shores of the sevenmile strip or in one of the petite inns lining the craggy West End. Beach resorts put you within wading distance of the azure sea, but what the West End lacks in sand, it more than makes up for in setting. Perched dramatically on limestone cliffs, hotels here are generally smaller, more hip and less conventional than their brand-name beachfront counterparts, and most have pedestals with ladders that offer direct access to the »

CARIBBEAN TRAVEL+LIFE 17

GUIDEBOOK~JUST BACK

clear turquoise water. But there's really no need to compromise: Split your stay between both locations, and enjoy both sides of this perennially popular town.

Rock On Among the most chic resorts on the West End is The Caves, which transports guests to a whimsical fairy-tale world where rooms set in baby-blue- and purple-painted buildings are embellished with wooden moldings of vine and flower cutouts, beaded lamps, brightly painted trunks and mosquito-netted beds. Stone paths wind serpentine-like through the lushly vegetated property, which comes by its name honestly; the cliffs upon which it sits abound with secret caves and crannies. For the most romantic meal of your life (we promise), request dinner in the cave where a table for two is carved out of the bedrock. Dine by the glow of dozens of tea lights, with the nearby crashing surf the only sound.

Farther west is West End newcomer Moon Danc.eCliffs. Unlike most of the area's hotels, which are situated directly on the edge of the cliffs, Moon Dance is set back from the shore and features a gigantic labyrinthine pool and a pristinely manicured lawn perfect for weddings. The 33 rooms and villas, decorated in an earthy color palette of oranges and greens, are redolent of the local cedar used to make the modern furnishings, and flat-screen TVs share wall space with local art.

Eastward Bound As you make your way from the West End to the beach, stop for

18 CARl 88 EA N TRAVEL+ LIFE

+ EAT /I Kuyaba; lunch from

$9; 876·957-4318; kuvabe.corn II Rick's Cate; entrees from $14; 876- 957·0380; rickscafejamaica.com II Rockhouse; entrees from $10; 876~957·4373; rockhousehotel .comll Sweet Spice; entrees from $7: 876 -9 57-4621

~ STAY II Beaches Negri!; from $398 per adult in low season ($414 high), from $105 per child; 888·232-2437: beaches.corn

II The (aves: from $445 in low season ($608 high); 800-688- 7678: islandoutpost.corn II Moon Dance Cliffs: from $185 in low season ($260 .high); 800-621- 1120: moo nda ncere so rts.com II Sandals Negril; from $453 per person in low season ($478 high); 888-726-3257; sanoels.corn

~ 'PLAY II Famous Vincent; twohour tours from $65; book at hotel.

dinner at Rockhouse. The boutique inn, well-loved for its comfortable thatchroof villas and philanthropic efforts in the comm uni ty, serves some of the best food in town. Take a seat on the cliff'sedge, tiki-torch-lit deck and order the Dapper Snapper, a steamed red snapper fillet wrapped in a banana leaf. Afterward, pop into the resort's small gift shop to browse a well-edited selection of clo thing, jewelry, artwork, candles and essen tial oils, almos t all of it handcrafted in Jamaica. Ladies will covet the adorable CaHaloo line, featuring breezy sundresses

and handbags of bright, "flowered fabrics embellished with sequin butterflies.

Downtown, on the main road toward Savanna -la- Mar, enjoy some of the best escovitch fish ever to scorch your palate at Sweet Spice, a lunchtime spot popular with locals and in-the-know visitors. The decor is best described as eclectic, with plastic flowered tablecloths, white lace curtains straight au t of grandma'S house and glass Christmas ornaments dangling from the ceiling year-round. But don't let the ambience distract you from the sumptuous food. Tuck into the fried escoveitch

CAR I 88EANTRAVELM AG.COM

drizzled with a spicy vinaigrette or a plate of curried chicken, then wash it down with a homemade drink, such as Irish Moss - a local delicacy made of seaweed that's believed to boost virili ty,

Seven-MHe Sojourn Seven miles - give or take - of warm, welcoming sand fringes Negril, its western end rich with small guesthouses and restaurants such as Kuyaba. Snag one of the hammock swings that sub for bar stools at this funky joint, or grab a seat on the multilevel waterfront wooden deck for a lunch of brown stew chicken or a snapper fillet sandwich.

Farther along busy Norman Manley Boulevard, the main drag that runs parallel to the shore, Beaches Negril resort is a boon for those traveling with kids in tow. The beach here is wide and dazzling white, and there's no shortage of things to do, from Xbox playoffs at the gaming

MARCH 2011

center to scratching school at the DJ Academy. The water park alone, with two enormous slides, should keep kids happy for days. With five restaurants, the requisite palapa-shaded swim-up bar and a Red Lane spa,. the enclave will please parents as much as little ones. (Be sure to snap shots of dad posed in the trash can next to a statue of Oscar the Grouch.)

Couples seeking romance flock to Sandals Negrn - think of the adul ts -only resort as the heavily spiked rum punch equivalent to Beaches' Shirley Temple. Six res taurants, five bars, a spa and three pools keep lovers entertained. The onebedroom Crystal Lagoon suites, with mahogany four-poster beds, cozy sitting areas and a swim-up pool right outside the patio door, are the ultimate luxury. Food can be an afterthought at some allinclusives, but Sandals impresses with eateries such as Sundowner, where the

pumpkin soup, smoked marlin appetizer and. pork tenderloin are divine.

Water World Get on the water aboard one of the many glass-bottom boats that ply the seaj ust offshore. You can't miss Famous Vincent's vivid ride - just look for his name splashed in bold capital letters on both sides of his small red and blue boat. He'll pick you up at your hotelbeachside or cliffside - and ferry you to the reef for snorkeling or take you on a tour of the West End to check out the cliff-hugging properties from the water. The best part of the outing is Vincent himself, who happily entertains guests with stories of his past. "How did you become 'Famous'?" you may ask. "I was captain of a boat named Cecilia," he says. "I thought, why not paint Famous Vincent Cecilia on her side?" He's one of a kind, justlike Negril, - BECKY STRAUSS

CARIBBEAN TRAVEl+lIFE 19

GUIDEBOOK~LOCAL FLAVOR

The Taco Hunter

Looking for the best taco on Mexico's Riviera IMaya?

It's as simple as following your nose.

I HOPPED IN THE TAXI AND, NOT WANTING TO WASTE ONE PRECIOUS minute, immediately informed the driver that I needed - not wanted, needed - a taco, And not just any old tourist taco. A genuine Mexican taqueria taco. Sensing that his tip might depend more all his advice than his speed, he asked if I could hold out until we got to Tulum. Being some 80 miles south, it's no short drive from the Cancun airport, but he assured me he knew just the place, right outside the entrance to town.

And that's how I made the greates t discovery of my tri p: Urge Taqulto, which loosely and delightfully translates to "Quick! I need a taco!" OK, it wasn't so quick, but I did need a taco, and this unassuming little eatery delivered the goods. Ninety minutes after

20 CA RISBE AN TR AV El+ll FE

my impassioned taco plea, I was chowing down on some superb guacamole, a caught- that- morning shrimp cocktail and a trio of tacos: two of perfectly fried fish and one of grilled shrimp. It was ambrosial, not least because I washed it down with an authentic ice-cold michelada, a beer cocktail made with Worcestershire sauce, lime and chili powder. Better yet, the bill came to a not-sa-whopping $12. Try finding that at a tourist restaurant

Stalking tacos wasn't my sole reason for coming to the Riviera Maya, but it may as well have been. I love eating tacos in Mexico. There's something pure and unchanging about their very humbleness. A warm, soft tortilla made fresh from maize. A savory filling of grilled meat or fresh seafood. A dollop of tangy salsa to top it all off. Voila, the taco.

The classic taqueria is ubiquitous throughout the Riviera Maya. It's usually an open -airj oin t wi th metal tables, plastic chairs and cement walls, and it's often smelled before it is seen, the tantalizing aroma from the grill wafting into the street. A plain, unpretentious setting seems to be a mark of quality, and the menu is defiantly simple: no quesadillas, no burritos - and no hard-shell tortillas either. There are no vegetarian options and no salads, other than perhaps a plate of mouth-cooling radish and cucumber, along wi th the usual garnishes of guacamole, chopped onion, cilantro and lime.

Some taquerias are devoted to meat: beef, pork and chicken sliced and grilled on a slab of steel or over charcoal. 0 thers stick to seafood - fish, shrimp, even octopus. They have varying hours, but there always seems to be at least one open, in deference to the Mexican custom of eating tacos whenever the mood strikes: for breakfast, lunch and dinner, of course, but also to tide over an empty stomach during the long haul to the region's de riqueur late dinners. And after a night on the town, it is common to stop for a restorative taco or two before heading home.

For me, though, tacos are more than mere fuel for frolics in the sea and adventures in partying. They're also an entree to cultural tourism, a pretext for interacting with the Riviera Maya's hospitable locals beyond the tourist ha unts, Approaching

CAR I 8BEANTRAVELM AG.COM

Heeding Jaramillo's advice, I sniffed my way to

EI Fogon, where the aroma of barbecuing meats told m.e it was the real deal.

a taqueria elicits smiles from locals proud to serve up a sampling of their national dish, while a sneaking a glance at fellow diners' plates prompts a flurry of suggestions on what to order (a wonderful way, incidentally, to practice your Spanish).

Upon decamping to my final stop, the buzzing beach town of Playa del Carmen, 1 sought the taqueria-tracking tactics of David Reyes Jaramillo, the chef at trendy Maya restaurant Yaxche and maker of a marvelous plate oftacos de cochinita pibil. "Use your nose," he said. "I t's a reliable judge of quality."

Heeding his advice, 1 sniffed my way to EI Fogon, where the mouthwatering aroma of barbecuing meats told me it wa.s the real deal.

Besides pork, beef and spicy

chorizo, El Fogon offers tacos

al pastor, a popular dish made by marinating a leg of pork in dried chiles, then slowly cooking it next to a gas flame on an

years ago by Lebanese immigrants. The succulent meat is then sliced into thin

shards and served with chopped onions, cilantro, a dash of lime and hot salsa.

El Fogon is a local favorite, but savvy out -of- town chowhounds inevitably find their way here. The menus are written in Spanish, and the waiters don't speak much English, so it helps to go with someone fl uent in Spanish. Either way, you'll find a warm welcome and a delicious meal.

My last night in town, I consulted that other great arbiter oflocal food, the hotel desk clerk. He directed me to Tako's Ught, at Juarez and Fifth Avenue, ] couldn't find it, so I asked a local hurrying by. "Just there," she said in Spanish, pointing to a pushcart at the

side of the street that was

surrounded by a dozen people. A. man tended sizzling pieces of steak, chicken and pork on a steel grill while his wife took

EI Fogon, on 30th Avenue near Calle 6, Playa del Carmen II Tako's Light, at Fifth Avenue and Juarez, Playa del Carmen II Urge Taquito, on Highway 307 just north of T utum II Yaxche, at Fifth Avenue and Calle 22, Playa del Carmen; 52-984-873-3011; mayacuisine.com

to clients. Following the lead of the crowd, 1 eagerly accepted my taco and assumed the practiced position of the standing taco eater - a sligh t fo rward lean, my little finger daintily holding up the back end of the tortilla to keep the juices from dribbling down my shirt and trousers.

As 1 stood there savoring my little taste of heaven, I remembered something Jaramillo told me about tacos: "The tortilla is the foundation of our cooking. It is plate, cutlery and napkin. Add salsa and meat, and you have a taco." I did. And 1

upright spit grill, a technique introduced orders and then handed the readied tacos enjoyed every last bite. - ROG ER TOLL

Call your favorite travel agent today:

or: 866.870.7148 • Book Online at: ourlucaya.com

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GUIDEBOOK-+HAPPY HOURS

Everyone is family

at Skinny Legs. where the drinks are strong and the menu is on a longboard.

Sweet Charity

At Skinny Legs, on St. John, the spirit of giving flows as freely as the drinks.

MOE CHABUZ AND PARTNER Doug Sica were a couple of refugees from the northeast United States who spent the 1980s tending bar in Cruz Bay, on st. John in the U.S. Virgin Islands. But the town was getting a bit crowded for their taste, so when a ramshackle joint formerly known as Redbeard's Saloon became available in sleepier Coral Bay, they took it. And while trying to think of a name for their bar, the two became targets of this choice observation from a passerby: "Man, you guys got skinny butts and skinny legs!" Eureka.

"We figured it's dumb enough that people will come at least once, and ifthey like it they'll come back," says Moe.

While Skinny Legs may look like a beach bum's version of a sports bar, its magic lies in its playful, generous personality. The rustic bayfront joint has been called a community center, a town hall and, perhaps most aptly, the soul of Coral Bay. It's where the town's family of self-styled misfits and dropouts comes to hang out, cele br ate or raise money + Skinny Legs, Coral Bay, St. John, USVl. for worthy causes. "It changes character 340-779-4982; skin nylegs. com

all the time," says one longtime habitue. "Sometimes we even do funerals here."

Live music three nights a week, costume parties, darts, voUeyball- there's always plenty of entertainment. And as often as not, there's an ulterior motive at play. Moe is known as a mensch who does well by doing good - his pet causes include the Kids and the Sea program, which teaches local youngsters to sail, and fundraising for wounded servicemen.

"All we ever wanted was to open a friendly bar where we would like to hang out and where people could bring their parents or kids," says Moe. "Our only rules are no violence, no drugs, don't annoy people, and leave well-known people alone." - DAVE HERNDON

MIX IT UP: COCONUT SWIZZLE

1 shot of coconut rum II Rose's lime cordial to taste II A spritz of both club soda and Sprite II Combine in a highball glass filled with ice. Stir and garnish with a lime wedge.

For morl! drink recipes, visit caribbeantravelmag.com/happyhours.

22 CARI88EA N TRAVEl+LlF E

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Discovev

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GUIDEBOOK~DAY TRIP

Pedal Pushers

See San Juan, Puerto Rico, from the slow lane on a freewheeUng bike ride along its most famous streets.

IT'S PERHAPS MY SEVENTH OR EIGHTH VISIT TO SAN JUAN, PUERTO Rico, yet as I fly in, I still marvel as the cool-blue mosaic of the Caribbean below gives way to a patchwork of neighborhoods stitched together with busy streets and highways. As we descend, two of the city's best -known districts - the historical, cobblestone World Heritage site of Old San Juan and EI Condado, a popular beachfron t resort and residential area - come in to view. Tomorrow I'll experience their familiar streets from a whole new perspec tive, trading my bird's-eye vantage pain t for a handlebar view on a two-wheel tour wi th Ren t the Bicycle, which hosts leisurely rides between the two quarters.

24 C ARI88EAN TR AVE L+ LI FE

Re n t the Bic yet e 's two-wheelers are as colorful as San Juan itself.

Our super-fit guide, Nancy, looks more like she's ready to tackle the Tour de France than to lead nine slightly ou t of shape tourists on a three-hour, 71/2-mile ramble through San Juan's streets. She distributes helmets (safety first), adjusts seats and tens us what to expect: We'll bike single file along paved pathways and busy roads during our pedal-powered sightseeing tom, s topping for photo ops and to refuel with refreshments.

It's the tail end of the morning rush hour as we maneuver down the street to a narrow asphalt path parallel to Avenida Munoz Rivera, the palm-tree-lined waterfront road connecting Old San Juan and El Condado. As we cruise along in our own lane beside the bustling highway, the sun's sizzling warmth is countered by a cool ocean breeze, and the symphony of waves crashing just feet away dampens the traffic's white noise. We're so close to the water that if it were windier, we'd be enjoying a baptism by sea spray.

Cycling here is - li terally - a breeze, and we pick up some serious speed as we pass Escambron Beach and zip around Sixto Escobar Stadium toward the towering Caribe Hilton complex. Nancy leads us in to the hotel's grounds toward the ruins of Fortin de San Geronimo, a small 17 thcentury defensive battery that played a pivotal role in protecting San Juan from enemy vessels. Now dwarfed by the Hilton and hidden from street view, the islandlike fort is Lilliputian in comparison to the massive (and much more famous) San Felipe del Morro and San Cristobal castles that guard the heart of Old San Juan. Yet as we snap photos, we all agree that there's something compelling abou t the way its ancient salmon-hued walls contrast with the soaring 20th-century high-rises of nearby EI Condado.

Just beyond Puente Dos Hermanos, the bridge spanning Condado Lagoon, the resort-lined neighborhood beckons. We pedal across cautiously and merge with cars on busy Ashford Avenue, the area's main thoroughfare. Lined with trendy

CAR I 8BEANTRAVELM AG.COM

restaurants, high-end boutiques, condos and resorts, it's great for people-watching ~ just not while riding a bike. Turning onto a side street, we come upon lovely Plaza Antonia Quinones, a small square anchored by gnarled trees and rimmed with a whimsical art installation of oversize brass seashells that appear to have been scattered across the pavement.

Our pace so far has been relaxed but so sufficiently stimulating that no one has asked, "Are we there yet?" The halfway point, and highlight, is just a few blocks away in Santurce, at La Placita (formally known as Plaza del Mercado), a colonial-style open-air square. Its centerpiece is a fruit and vegetable market inside an ornate red and yellow historic building that dates to 1925. But by night ~ particularly on Thursdays and Fridays ~ La Placita comes alive, its restaurants and bars teeming with young Sanjuaneros si pping minty mojitos, feasting on grilled fish wi th garlicky mashed or fried plantains and enjoying live music.

We park our bikes and wander inside the market to poke around and cool off. Amid stalls lad en wi th piles of mangoes, plantains and avocados, dozens of vendol's and shoppers banter

and negotiate in rapidfire Spanish. The whole place smells earthy, like a freshly tilled field, with a hint of dried tobacco and a dash of garlic. The distinctly tropical aromas of

banana and pineapple begin to tease my appetite just as Nancy returns clutching an armful of ice-cold fruit smoothies whipped up by one of the vendors. The delicious drinks quench our thirst, and as the s un inches higher in the sky, we get back in our saddles for the freewheeling pilgrimage back to Old San Juan.

Our return route is along the inland side oflarge and leafy Luis M ufioz Rivera Park on an arrow-straight, tree-shaded path where Nancy tells us countless local children have learned to ride their own bikes.

Soon we're back on the wind-swept seaside path, speeding past hulking San Cristobal Castle and onto Calle de San Francisco for a short loop through Old San Juan's nar-

row cobblestone streets. I grip

given mean

opportunity to see in ways I'd never imagined a city I thought I knew.

my handlebars tightly as my tires rumble over the uneven stones and send a tickle from my toes to my nose.

After our journey ends, I replay the highlights in my

This tour has

mind, recalling the sweet, buttery smells wafting from apanaderia and the lively sounds of merengue drifting from a bodega ~ things you'd surely miss in a taxi. I realize that the tour has given me an opportunity to see in ways I'd never imagined a city I thought I knew. And I resolve that it won't take another seven or eight visits before I saddle up again. ~ DO NN A HE ID ERSTADT

The Can dado Beach tour runs twice daily at 9: 00 a. rn. and 1:00 p.rnfor $27 per person. 787-602-9696; rentthebicycle.net

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Bustling Orient Beach,French St. Marti n's hub, Is In easy reach of value-priced hotels and restaurants. Opposite: Grand Case Beach Club offers great views and springtime deals.

Easy on the Euros

On French St. Martin, beachfront digs don't have to cost beaucoup bucks. Plus: the tastiest way to spend $10.

VISITORS LOVE GOING DUTCH FOR GAMBLING, DUTY-FREE SHOPPING _ and easy day trips to neighboring islands, but the French side of St. Martin lures wi th fine dining, a handful of still-quain t villages lOU1d one of the Caribbean's most colorful scenes, clothing-optional Orient Beach. A welcome sign is the only visible border between the two sid es (there are no passp art formalities), so visitors can combine the best of both to create a perfect two-nation vacation. Last month Affordable focused on Dutch St. Maarten; this month, the island's French side steps into the spotlight.

As with most warm-weather destinations, St. Martin is pricier during the winter months, but when low season starts in mid-April, room rates can plummet by up to 50 percent. Cheap airline seats begin to appear, and May is agood time for last-minute

26 CARI8BEAN TRAVEL+ LIFE

package deals. Save on transportation by using the minibuses that circle the island instead ofrenting a car. And although the lauded restaurants of Grand Case will tempt, nearby lolos - barbecue stands with chicken, ribs and fish for around $10 a plate - provide a satisfying and delicious alternative. Supermarches Match, a grocery store outside the capital of Marigot, has a mouthwatering selection of imported cheeses, wines and pates perfect for a night spent dining in.

Love Hotel, a new boutique inn, sits in the center of Grand Case overlooking the beach. The two-story structure (formerly Chez Martine) hugs the sand, with seven spacious, minimalist-chic rooms decorated in chocolate and white. All have king beds and air conditioning but lack distractions such as TVs. The terrace bar offers a true pieds dans real! (feet in the water) experience, serving enticing elixirs along with tasty tapas, salads and sandwiches. Beanbags serve as loungers on the beach, and sea-grape trees frame the pictureperfec t view of neighboring Anguilla.

Tucked into a quiet residential area, les Balcons d'Oyster Pond is perched on a hillside above a marina. Nineteen individually owned units are spread out over three levels, cascading down the hill nearly to the water. Accommodations range from studios to two-bedroom bungalows, each with a kitchen, a barbecue grill, a TV, a music system and air conditioning. Decor varies, but rooms are all cheerfully styled. There's a pool on the middle level and several restaurants are within walking distance. One drawback:

Though Dawn Beach is just a five-min ute boat ride (or drive) away, Oyster Pond's location makes renting a car essential.

Hotel la Plantation is a beautifully landscaped complex that overlooks the sea from a hillside above Orient Beach. Its 17 gingerbread villas each have three units: two are studios with kitchenettes; one is a suite with a full kitchen. Warmly decorated with hand-stenciled murals, every room has vaulted ceilings and a seafacing terrace. There's also a pool, a gym, a bar and a restaurant serving dinner; the beach is a lO-minute walk away. Grab a hotel-provided ID card to claim free beach loungers, or use it to charge meals

CAR I 8BEANTRAVELM AG.COM

at five affiliated Orien t Beach restaurants to your room. Watch for frequent fifth night free and other specials.

Just off the sand at Orient Beach, 56-room L'Hoste Hotel is a great option for visitors who want beach action close at hand but also desire a quiet escape. Decorated with sherbet colors and statues of Buddha, three-story bungalows house spacious rooms whose prices vary based on decor (the Tropical category were most recently upgraded) and location (most of the ground -floor Garden rooms open onto the parking area). There are no beach or sea views, bu t La Playa, the hotel's moderately priced restaurant on the sand, is a festive scene through the day. A small pool with Wi-Fi rounds out the facilities.

Out + About Loterie Farm sits high on the shoulders of Pic Paradis, St. Martin's highest point, and its zip lines offer the bold and brave an exhilarating adventure through the forest canopy. Two features distinguish Loter ie's FlyZone from many Caribbean zip lines. First, most of the stations are unattended, so you'll be responsible for clipping yourself onto the cables - bring your own Tarzan or Jane for support. Second, the FlyZone and the daredevil FlyZone Xtreme are really more like elevated obstacle courses than regular zip lines, with challenges that include navigating swaying logs and traversing swinging suspension bridges up to 80 feet aboveground. For the less ambitious' the 135-acre former plantation offers relaxed forest hikes and the Hidden Forest Cafe. - DAVID SWANSON

Warth a Splurge Rates at the polished Grand Case Beach Club are pricey in w inter, but they plunge more than 50 percent on Apri 116 - perfect t lml ng fo r your tax refund. The Cl ub's 71 rooms range from stud ios with garden views to one- and two-bedroom oceanview apartments, and all have a fully equipped kitchen, air conditioning and a balcony or patio. The hotel also offers complimentary non motorized water sports, in-house car rental, a restaurant, tennis courts, a pool and its own beach. Dozensof restaurants, ranging from informal and inexpensive 10105 to gastronomic splurges, are withi n a 15-minute walk.

St" Martin on $148 -+ ACTIVITY Illoterie and United from -+ TAXES II Roomtax St. Martin Hotels Pond, Oyster Pond:
a Day* -+ HOTEL /1 Farm: $47 for the FlyZone Washington. o.c. isS percen t: a serv ice Grand Case Beach Club, 011-590·590-29-43-39:
Average $127 in low (FlyZone Xtreme is $74): -+ TAXI /I From airport charge is levied at some Grand Case: 800· lesbalcons.corn; from
season ($214 high) Pic Paradis: 011 "590-590· to love Hotel and Grand hotels: ai rp ort depsrtu re 344-3016: grand case $81 in low season
-+BREAKFAST 1/ 87-86·16: loteriefarmnet Case Beach Club. about taxis $30 (often included beachdub.corn from ($122 high) II L:Hoste
Included in rates at -+ GETTING THERE II $34; Hotella Plantation, in the cost of an airline $160 in low season Hotel, Orient Beach;
most Fre nch-si de hoi els American Airlines flies L'Hoste Hotel and ticket). -+ INFO II ($330 high). plus 10 011·590-590-87·42·08;
-+ LUNCH 1/ Chez Yvette; to St. Martin from New les Bakons d'Oyster 011·590·590-87-57·21; perc I" n t servi r e tha rge, hostehotel.com from
$15 for stewed co n C'h with York· JFK, Miami and Pond, about $40 strnarttnlslandorg including continental $120 in low season
sides: 0 rlea n s: 011-590- San Juan. Continental -+ RENTAL CAR II Avis breakfast II Hotel la ($250 high). including
590-87-32·03 flies from Newark,. Delta ca r re n t at from $26 per *per person in low season Plantation, Orient Bay: continental breakfast /I
.,. DINNER /1 La Belle from Atlanta. JetBl.ue day ($55 high), plus ($191 high), based on Oll·590·590·29-58-00; Love Hotel. Grand Case:
Ep oqu e: $22 for pa n- fried from New York-JFK and 8 percent tax. A $25 dou b Ie occ upa n cy, la-plantation.com; from 011·590·590-29-87·14;
tuna with vegetables BasIon,. Spirit from surcharge applies to excluding airfare, car $200 in low season love-sxrn.corn, from
and rice: Marina Port la Fort Lauderdale. US rentals from the airport; re ntal, alrpo rt Ir ans fe rs, ($340 high). including $108 in low season ($142
Royale. Marigol; 011·590· Airways from Charlotte 011·599-545-2847: I ax and se rvl re charges buffet breakfast II high), including tax
5·90-87-87-70 and Philadelphia, evts-sxrn.corn (US$1 = 1.35 EUR) Les Saleons d'Oyster and service MARCH 2011

CARIBBEAN TRAVEL+LIFE 27

GUIDEBOOK-+HOT DEALS

Spring Break

Migrate south with an impromptu - and inexpensive - island getaway.

Anguilla Pay for five nights and stayfor seven at Cuisi nArt Resort & Spa, a luxe Me diterraneanstyle hotel that sits upon equally dazzling Rendezvous Bay. Guests can sample offerings at the recently expanded Venus Spa or see where their Caesar salad carne from on a tour of the resort's hydroponic farm. II Package: Stay Seven, Pay for Five II Rate: From $580 per night » Nights: Seven » Available: Through April 2 )) Contact: 800-943-3210; cuisinartresort.com

Aruba Palm Beach is always hopping, and now the all-inclusive o c.c:id ental Grand Aruba gives visitors the chance to save up to 29 percent on a stay on its lively sands. Enjoy unlimited meals and snacks, free-flowing drinks, activities and nightly entertainment;

28 CARI8S EA N TRAVEL+LlFE

all taxes and gratuities are also included. Check the website for other great deals at Occidental hotels in Mexico and the Dominican Republic. II Package: Winter Travel )) Rate: From $241 per person per night, based on double occupancy J) Nights: No minimum )) Available: Through April 23 )) Contact: 800-858-2258; occiden talhotels, com

Barbados On the wild Atlantic coast, the venerable Crane Residential Resort is offering a great deal for pairs traveling with kids. Book a one-bedroom oceanview suite or any higher room category, and kids under 12 will eat and stay free. Parents also snag two nights of complimentary baby-sitting service for up to three hours per night. )) Package: Family Offer )) Rate: $ 596 per night » Nights: Four minimum )) Available: Through April 30 )) Contact: 800-097-1794; thecrane.corn

Jamaica Grab a girlfriend for this ladiesonly getaway at Jamaica Inn, in Ocho Rios, where you'll get five days and four nights in a deluxe veranda suite at the classic beachfront boutique where Winston Churchill once slept. Each of you also gets a private round-trip transfer from the airport in Montego Bay, daily breakfast and a 2lj2-hour treatment at the petite KiYara Ocean Spa. )1 Package: Girlfriend Getaway )1 Rate: $3,461 for a deluxe veranda suite, based on double occupancy )) Nights: Four )) Availabl.e: March 1 to April 15 )) Contact: 800-837-4608; j amaicainn.com

St. Lucia On the island's wind-swept southern coast, the all-inclusive Coconut Bay Beach Resort & Sp.a caters to families and couples. The Harmony half of the resort is adults-only, with private poolside cabana beds and the oceanfront Kai Mer Spa. The hotel's other side, Splash, offers G-rated family-friendly fun, with a paintball facility, a water-sports complex and the island's largest water park. Book a room in either section of the resort, and you'll save as much as 45 percent off standard rates, based on double occupancy. )1 Package: Winter Spectacular )) Rate: From $169 per person per night in a garden-view roorn n Nights: No minimum n Available: Thro ugh April 25 n Contact: 877- 352-8898; cbayresort.corn

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AMSTERDAM MANOR BEACH RESORT Warm smiles, friendly staff, spacious fully-equipped studios & suites, fine

dining and great amenities. 1-800-969-2310 • www.AmsterdamManor.com Reservations@AmsterdamManor.aw

ARUBA MARRIOTT RESORT

& STELLARIS CASINO

$50 Million in renovations is complete! Our new rooms and balconies are the largest on the island. Choose from 7 on-site restaurants and bars. For

serious pampering, ask about T radewinds Club.

1-800-223-6388 • arubamarriott.com aruba.reservations@marriotthotels.com

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• ~~~J",~. ~ ,iI.:

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THE MILL RESORT & SUITES ARUBA Casual elegance set within lush tropical gardens. Spacious rooms & suites, most with fully equipped kitchens.

Poolslde Bar & Restaurant.Tennls. Spa.

Toll Free: 1·800·992·2015 www.millresort.com.info@icon-hotels.com

THE WESTIN RESORT & CASINO

offers the charming Dutch Caribbean, a rnagnlflcent beach, and the new Palm Beach Casino.

Reservations: I (877) 822·2222.

Web: www.westinaruba.com E·mail: wesllnaruba@westin..com

Eastern Standard

On the Atlantic coast of Barbados, this boutique charmer has been updated for the next century.

THE WEST COAST OF BARBADOS IS a place to lounge around by the pool, gin and tonic in hand, and titter at jokes like, "How marry American tourists does it take to change a light bulb?" The east coast, in contrast, is rugged, largely frillfree and utterly unpretentious. Hotels and restaurants in hamlets such as Bathsheba are thin on the ground here, so it's big news when a newcomer (even one that's more than a century old) enters the scene.

The Atlantis recently debu ted a refurbished look that stays true to its history. Perched on pretty Tent Bay, just south of Bathsheba's surf central, the hotel first opened its doors soon after a passenger and cargo railway linked the east coast with the capital city, Bridgetown, in 1883. The line, which passed right in front of the hotel, is long gone, but in its place is one of the island's best seaside hiking trails.

In 2008 the Atlantis came under the ownershi p of Andrew Warden, an affable Australian whose Barbadian mother owns the west coast's acclaimed Fish Pot restaurant and Little Good Harbour resort. Warden presided over a 14-111onth redo of the then threadbare hotel, introducing

30 CARIB8EAN TRAVEL+LIFE

Morning sunshine and sea breezes fill the Atlantis'

10 rooms. Below:

There's no better way to start your day than with

a breakfast of bakes and buljol.

lots of fresh white paint and moody dark wood, raising the ceilings and trimming the room count from 15 to 10. The dazzling results now bring Platinum Coast polish to the easygoing Atlantic side.

Rooms are bright and outfitted with cool colonial elegance. (You'll be using that Do NOT DISTURB sign.) French doors open wide to let in an ever-whirling sea breeze. There's also a sparkling new swimming pool and a fine little restaurant with openair seating that specializes in authentic Bajan cuisine. Don't skip breakfast; the bakes and buljol, a Bajan specialty of saltfish and tomato, are too good to miss.

Wf!ve waxed lyrical about nearby Sea - U Guest House, and while we're still sweet on Bathsheba's genteel mainstay, we are happily obliged to report that the Atlantis is every bit as beguiling. - MATT PHENIX

+ The Atlantis, Tent Bay, St. Joseph, Barbados. From $255 year-round. 246- 433-9445; atkmtishotelba rbados.com

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JOURNAL~FESTIVAL

And They're Off!

On tranquil Tobago, a day at the races is a chance to see goats treated like sports royalty.

A BUGLER MARCHES SMARTLY ONTO THE TURF, RAISES HIS GLEAMING horn and sounds the call to the post. A wave of anticipation sweeps through the spec tators packing the grands tands, like the ri pple of the trade winds on the nearby sea. Meanwhile, in the paddock, jockeys adjust their silks. Trainers grab the reins of their headstrong hopefuls Ben Hur, Running Scared and Silver Baby and lead them toward the starting ga te ~ and per haps to glory ~ at this year's goat races.

That's right: goat races.

Churchill Downs has the Run for the Roses, and Pamplona, Spain, has the running of the bulls, but Buccoo, Tobago, boasts The Men Who Dare to Run With Goats.

For the past 85 years, this tiny westside village better known for its beautiful fringing reef has hosted one of the Caribbean's most surreal spectacles. Held annually the Tuesday after Easter, the Buccoo (pronounced boo-KOO) Goat Race Festival

32 CARIBBEAN T RAVEL+LIFE

began as the working-class answer to the blue-blo oded sport of horse racing. And today the goat races are taken every bit as seriously as the soca-soaked revelry on Tobago's sister island of Trinidad. So seriously, in fact, that the venerable post-Lenten event is no longer run in a dusty field but in a new $16 million "goatdrome," which features a lOO-meter-Iong grass track, a starting gate, a paddock building, grands tands and a VIP box wi th air conditioning and a flat-screen TV.

Luxury aside, the experience also offers an authentic dose of down-home Caribbean culture, with pan orchestras, dancers in traditional finery, minstrels, wisecracking emcees, kiosk.s serving up shark 'n' bake, local characters galore and even a few crab races for comic relief.

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But at its heart, this day at the races is all about the goats. With some purses approaching $400 ~ and plenty of betting among the spectators ~ there's a lot ridiug on these racing ruminants. Right after Carni val, trainers such as Oliver Williams of Canaan, a mason by trade, begin sharpening up their charges: running the goats on sandy beaches, swimming them in the shallows to build endurance and practicing the a11- im portant start.

It's also crucial for a stable to have a good jockey, who must keep pace with the goat while running barefoot, brandishing

MARCH 2011

Race day brings big excitement to tiny Tobago. Combining local color, spirited cornpetltlon and racing pageantry, it's been the highlight of the island's sporting calendar for almost a century.

a switch and holding a 7- to 9-foot tether. If the leash is too taut or too loose, the goat might stop running, while losing one's grip altogether means disqualification. The best jockeys combine a sprinter's speed with a goat-whisperer's empathy.

But make no mistake: For the various Tob ago stables, tills is cold-eyed competitive racing. George "Sparrow" Clarke of Mount Irvine, a 75-year-old former jockey who has raced goats for 64 years, says a lead-footed handler gives an animal no chance. Bu t at least these slowpokes can aspire to become trainers - slow goats

meet their fate in a cooking pot. And a.s for past-their-prime champion goats:

"Well, you get rid of them too," Sparrow says matter-of-factly. "You sen them, and people eat them." One imagines theytaste delicious - like curried victory.

With sleek coats and numbered bibs, the goats certainly look like thoroughbreds as they strut in fran t of the stands and load into the gate. Let the record show that at 1:10 p.m. on April 6, 2010, Fiery Foot Step, running in the C2 j uvenile class (the lowest rank) and goaded by jockey Leroy Kerr, made history by winning the inaugural 100- meter race in the world's finest goat-racing facility.

Swift, nimble-footed and unapologetically stubborn, the goats are ahandful for any jockey. A third of the way through the IS-race program, Leroy collapses with a torn hamstring. A few races later, another handler is stretchered from the track with a leg injury. The goats, however, keep on gamboling. One of Sparrow's most promising youngsters, Running Scared, trots away with a pair of Class B races. But Flying Missile, a past Buccoo winner for Sparrow, is a Class A also-ran.

As evening falls, the crowd swells to watch the main event: the Champ of Champs, a showdown of the day's winners, including Running Scared, Mr. Fox, Fiery Foot Step and Silver Baby. And down the stretch they come! Less than 12 seconds later, it's Silver Baby by a nose - or horn.

Back in the paddock, trainer "Shadow" Roberts is thrilled with Silver Baby's performance. "It was a coming- out party," he says. Sadly, there'll be no stud work for the new champ, who's a gelding.

A few pens over, Sparrow seems satisfied with Running Scared's form. Next year his upstart will run with the big billy goats in Class A. As for the underachieving Flying Missile, well, he'd be wise not to get too comfortable in his hay-filled stall, Sparrow cautions: "I've got goats coming up." - CHRISTOPHER R. COX

+ The Buccoo Goat Race Festival is held annually after Easter in Buccoo, Tobago. Track admission is about $2.50for adults. visittobago.gov. tt

CARIB8EAN TRAVEL+LIFE 33

JOURNAL .. PROFILE

The Orchid Queen

When it comes to Statia's elusive blooms, Hannah Madden is no wallflower.

ANNAH MADDEN SCRAMBLES around the fallen gum tree, a legacy of Hurricane Earl's careless rampage across S t. Eustatius just five days ago. We are already a strenuous hour into our hike to the summit of the island's 1,968-foot volcano, but intrigue is trumping fatigue, so I pick my way around the trunk too. Soon, thankfully, we arrive at the rim of the crater and peer into the caldera. A riot of plants in every conceivable shade of green cloaks the rocky landscape. Gone is the spectacular view to the south of st. Kitts shimmering in the cobalt Caribbean; all our attention is focused on the gaping, vegetation-choked hole below. It's as if we've stepped back into time primeval, or maybe onto the set of Jurassic Park. I catch myself pricking my ears for the ground - trembling roar of a Tyrannosaurus rex and surreptitiously glance around, Just in case,

"This," Hannah declares reverently, "is the Quill." Switching gears into park ranger mode, she continues. "It's a dormant volcano that last erupted around A.D. 400, In the crater, we have a semitropical rainforest - gigantic trees, vines and lush vegetation, It's an extremely fertile environment." She catches me eyeing the abyss, pondering the wisdom of a hike to the bottom and, reading my thoughts, segues into reassuring guide mode. "A landslide took out the Crater Trail last week. We won't be going in today. I t's too dangerous."

Hannah's infectious enthusiasm for her office away from the office does 'the trick. Soon my fears of extinct dinosaurs and recent landslides are supplanted by the task she has set us: finding the lacy eyelash

34 CARI88EAN TRAVEL+LIFE

Hannah Madden, the Orch id Queen of Statia. Opposite: A spiky Psychilis corre/W, one of the island's 18 orchid species,

orchid, Epidendru m ciliare. These splendid flowers - along with their equally delicate cousins - are more than Hannah's day job; they are her obsession. As part of her gig as a ranger and guide with the S1. Eustatius National Parks foundation, she hikes to the Quill three days a week, getting her orchid fix while showing off'Statia's natural beauty.

We're taking stock of the Mazinga Trail, a crooked path that tracks the volcano's j agged rim. "Here's the tag for Number 222," shouts Femke Bouwers, a volunteer from the Netherlands who returns here every year for the survey. Femke checks her record sheet and informs us that the plan t, perched high in a tree, had six leaves las t year.

Hannah climbs up to make a closer inspection. "There are now 12 leaves and three flowers," she reports, "It's improving." A smile for the plan t's good health lights up her face,"I don't know why I am so attracted to orchids. It's just something that's in me. During my 'firs t sighting, some thing just clicked inside, and I was hooked."

We continue along the trail, Hannah pointing ou t other plants along the way: blueberries, sugar apples and Suriname cherries to sample, giant elephan t ears, dense moss and hardy mushrooms competing for turf. A self-taught naturalist who transplanted herself to S tatia from Amsterdam in 2006, Hannah has embraced all that lives on 'this rugged volcano. We s top at a tall, graceful tree. "This is the cinnamon tree," she says, showing us a leaf. "We lise this for tea. If yo II rub it like this, you can smell the spice." I reach for a leaf and immediately prompt an outcry. "No, not that one! That's the bastard cinnamon tree. I t's highly toxic when brewed. See the difference in the leaves?" Saved by the ranger.

Between botany lessons, the survey continues. Individual plants are numbered, then their leaves, s terns and flowers are tallied. The study includes 200 eyelash orchids and 150 Brassavola cucullata, Hannah's favorite and the most prolific orchid species on the Quill, As she measures the precise length of a specimen's leaf, I spot a tattoo on the inside of her wrist, a tiny red flower surrounded by leafy white petals. "Is that an orchid?"

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"No, it's the flower from Ternstroemia peduncularis, an endangered tree on the QuilL I just fell in love wi th it. It looks like a Japanese cherry blossom but smells like toothpaste. We call it the Japanese toothpaste tree." The orchids have a rival.

Back on the trail, Hannah tells me more about her true love. "Orchids are very clever, you know. Take Brassavola cucullata. At night it emits a heavy, sweet perfume that we believe attracts a longtongued moth, which probes the flower for nectar it will neverfind, These orchids don't produce nectar, but they trick the insects into spreading their pollen. The wonders of nature j ust blow my mind."

A few steps on, we find another casualty of the hurricane, a fallen tree branch sprouting an enormous eyelash orchid with about 50 flowers. I'm amazed the whisker-like petals withstood the storm. Now Hannah is in rescue ranger mode, warning, "It won't survive here on the ground. The goats will eat it." She carefully separates the bark to which the orchid is

rooted from the branch and, cradling the plan t like a newborn baby, heads down the steep path. "We'll drop this off at the park's botanical garden," she says. "I t's great fo r the public to see these flowers."

After delivering the rescued orchid, Hannah and I decide to hike back up the Quill. Free of gear, I expect a rapid ascent. But Hannah sets the same deliberate pace of our earlier trek. The park ranger is back, scanning her surroundings, looking for the next natural wonder. She turns over

rocks every few yards along the trail. On her fourth try, she hits the j ackpo t, "Look. It's Eleutherodactylus joh ns toneii"

I catch a fleeting glimpse of a dimesize brown and white frog before it darts into a crevice. "Those are the piping frogs that make the 'coquee' sound you hear at night," she explains. "They're on many islands, but since they're nocturnal and so tiny, few people ever see them." She smiles at our good fortune. "That was special."

By the time we reach the rim, the Quill has become eerily silent. A storm cloud descends, pouring thick, gray mist into the crater. Next to me, Hannah is deep in thought. "There are places like the bottom ofthis caldera that no one has studied thoroughly. I think there's a very good chance of finding new orchid species on Statia,"

I peer into the volcano, trying to see it through the eyes of the ranger !llaturalist/ guide/orchid lover. It certainly seems ripe for someone to make the next big botanical discovery. My money is on the Orchid Queen of the Quill.- PATRICK HOLIAN

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Seven Mile Beach II GRAND CAYMAN

It's possibly the hottest beach in the Caribbean. And by hot, 1 mean hot. As the sun's rays ricochet off gazillions of grains of snow-white silica, setting foot on the pristine powder that carpets the Caymans' most celebrated stretch is like stepping onto a baking sheet in a giant oven cranked to high. And yet I keep coming back for more. I crave the caress of the crystalline waters and can't wait to bask on the coral-sand crescent that's whispered my name aU winter. And if in my pursuit of all this sun-drenched hedonism a little sunburn ensues, well ... c'est la vie .. So do your best, Seven Mile sun. I'll slather on the SPF and take my chances. You're worth it. - SARAH GREAVES-GABBADON

Frenchman'. Cova II PORT ANTONIO, JAMAICA

Party is so tranquil and secluded that locals Ii ke to joke t hat the town is

best suited to "newlyweds and nearly deads" But it also boasts some of Jamaica's most scenic and unspoiled beaches. Curving like a smile between two bush-blanketed headlands, this petite white-sand crescent is set on a private estate flanked by villa-studded hills and lapped by calm, bath-waterwarm sea. A river runs through the lush 48-acre property, its bracing flow emptying into the shallows. You'll find no souvenir vendors, water sports or loud music here, just discreet signs advising that TOPLESS BATHING HC. will not be toLerated. Sophisticated yet laid-back, Frenchman's quiet cove is an untrarnmeled and singularly elegant oasis that never fails to enchant. - S.G.G

Negri III JAMAICA

Billed as seven miles of sugary shore, Negril's beach is really around five miles long. But its Length is irrelevant: it's the breadth of the beac h experie nee that counts. Where else can you get a massage, sign up for a sunset cruise, have your hair braided and buy a ticket for a reggae show with.i n fi ve paces of your beachfront hoteL room? On which other beach do topless tanners, strolling troubadours, wedding parties and happy families coexist in such harmony? Negril's bay is a delightful contradiction a hub with big-brand aLHnclusives,. a peaceful oasis with family-run B&Bs, high-profile yet low-key, a mecca

for international and homegrown sun-seekers. So let the cartographers qu i bb le over the di me nsions. Neg ril's sweeping shore is proof positive that size really doesn't matter. - S.G.G

Pigeon Point II TOBAGO

We dare you to find a more picturesque beach than this, its white-sand coastline edged with a procession of cascading palms, the water a smudge of lime green, aqua and turquoise, the sky a smear of powder blue. When the sun Illuminates the sky and cotton ball clouds dance overhead, everyone with a camera aims upward to capture that postcardperfect image. But the waters at Pigeon Point hold wonders too, such as the marine park Buccoo Reef and nearby Nylon Pool, a shallow lagoon that draws swimmers and snorkelers to its sandy reef. End the day with conversation and comestibles by the pier, where a fish sandwich and cold beer provide the perfect sunset send-off. - DEBBIE SNOW

West Bay eac II ROATAN, HONDURAS

The scuba set loves Honduras' Bay Islands, but there's topside treasure to be found here on this under-the-radar alabaster strand. The mile-long beach curves into the crook of a little bay on Roatan's southwest tip. and a fringing coral reef keeps the warm waves small. Even when cruise ships are in port, the beach moves to a relaxed rhythm. There might be a steel-pan band

at the Thirsty Turtle beach bar; there might be a single parasait floating overhead. Then again. there might not. - BECKY STRAUSS

Shoal Bay East II ANGUILLA It's hard to go wrong on a flat coraL

isLe ringed with sugary sand beaches. Wear your sunglasses on the ferry, because from the sea, the shore is naught but a blinding white blur. Shoal Bay is a favorite of both day-trippers and resldents, but you'LL still be able to find a spot to calL your own onits two miLes of powder, which appear as an endless strand of sand fringing a giant tub of turquoise. Popular bars and restaurants - Uncle Ernie's, Gwen's, Elodia's - await where you can kick back in a hammock, listen to music and dine on lobster or burgers. Offshore the coral reef summons snorkeling buffs. If you're lucky, you might get a glimpse of a turtle or eagle ray. But just being here is lucky enough. - o.s

44

Cabaret.

II DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

You can't sleep in at the hip digs along Cabarets's amber strip lined with bars, restaurants and shops. Sure, you could crank the air and shut the windows, but the vibe wouLd surely fin d yo u - and tha t's just the way visitors ll ke thi s beachfront mecca, where a cosmopolitan crowd comes for sun and fun. By day the latte-colored crescent bustles with windsurfers and kiteboarders competing for wind and waves.lnstructors shout advice, and merengue is the soundtrack behind chatter in Spanish, Italian, French, EngLish and German. Come evening, couples stroll the shore for just the right roost. Perhaps a restaurant with tables in the sand or a chic lounge with sofas u nd er the stars and palms draped with fairy lights? Either way, the party's always on. - D. S.

Rawlins Plantation Inn.

the accidental inn

AS ART KEUSCH REMEMBERS IT, "WE WERE driving up a narrow, overgrown road, and suddenly there was this vision - the most beautiful spot on St. Kitts." Though transfixed by the scene, the family didn't stay long: "We were politely kicked off the property by a caretaker and a Doberman."

That was 1988, and despite the large, unwelcorning dog, within two years the New Jersey bookseller and his clan had transformed the 18th -century sugar plantation - which they had initially acquired as a private family getaway - into Ottley's Plantation Inn.

The grand manor, all cheery yellow shutters and elegant white wood trim, dominates 35 hillside acres of green lawns, allamanda- draped terraces and beds of blue plumbago. Stone pathways weave through silk-cotton and cinnamon trees, while hiking trails snake beyond the grounds into the rainforest. The gently sloping volcanic Calle of Mount Liamuiga provides a fittingly majestic backdrop.

The manor's guest rooms and public areas reflect the sweep oftime, from the antique Chippendalestyle bar in the parlor (the spot for sundown socializing) to the pi tinge pools and whirl pool tubs found in the newes t sui tes. On the wraparound ve randa, you can contemplate the atmospheric greystone walls of the old sugar factory, now the Royal Palm restaurant, then enj oy an alfresco meal of classic French dishes infused with fresh Caribbean innovations.

"Innkeeping is fun," says Art. "The staff have become like family, and our guests are the most wonderful people in the world." - IAN KEOWN

the matriarch's hideaway

PAM HUGGINS BARRY IS A WOMAN WITH A secret - lots of them, actually. She knows the best spots for a hike deep in the rainforest or who's making wedding plans before the church is even booked. An expat originally from Pennsylvania, she's the grande dame of Golden Rock Inn, and quite possibly Nevis too.

You could say it's in her blood. A descendant of Edward Huggins, who in 1801 founded the sugar

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plantation that ultimately became the inn, Pam spent her childhood cultivating a passion for the island during visits to Golden Rock. She finally succumbed to the bucolic lifestyle in 1969, moving to Nevis to watch over the family legacy.

Bungalows dipped in island colors are sprinkled about the property's 96 acres. Nestled in the hillside 800 feet above the sea, all have private front porches and white interiors adorned with Nevisian-rnade mahogany furniture accented by bold Moroccan

carpets of red and orange. The old mill is now a twostory suite coveted by honeymooners and families alike. Ceiling fans and mountain air keep things cool and crisp in the evenings, when a symphony of frogs and crickets strikes up a nightly serenade.

After a day of hiking the forest trails, guests sip cocktails at the bar in the restored stone longhouse. Then it's olfto dinner on the open-air terrace - with a side of inside scoop from the woman who knows Nevis like 110 one else. - DEBBIE SNOW

Hidden courtyards, cozy rooms and the best lobster sandwich on Nevis are hall-

marks of the Golden Rock In n. Opposite: A cottage at Ottley's Plantation Inn.

49

the ali-in-the-family affair

TINY TWINKLING LIGHTS GRACEFULLY STRUNG ALONG ARCHES FRAMED by wooden latticework create an enchanting yet homey ambience for leisurely meals under the stars - one that perfectly illustrates the spiri t of the Hermitage, a plantation turned inn run by Richard and Maureen Lupinacci with their son and three daughters. It's a labor of love for the Lupinaccis, who bought the abandoned property on Nevis in 1971 and painstakingly restored it as a family home before opening it to guests in 1984.

Staying in any of the storybook cottages - some built to match the style of the great house, others imported from around the island - is like taking a step back in time. The porches are furnished with hammocks and wicker, mosquito netting drapes the four-poster canopy beds, and antique pieces topped with curios capture the elegance of a bygone era. The two-story great house, built in the late 17th century, has a library, a sitting room and a bar tha t opens on to the terraced dining area, the inn's social cen ter.

It's little wonder that guests at the Hermitage feel at home - Richard scoffs at the notion of closing for the off-season, saying, "We live here. This is our home." - D.S.

the golden oldie

WHILE IT'S CERTAINLY TRUE THAT Nisbet Plantati.onBeach Club is Nevis' only beachfront colonial inn, its appeal for those who return year after year isn't just the surf and sand - it's also the people.

The inn's veteran general manager, Jamie Holmes, sets the welcoming tone for the rest of the staff, many of whom have worked here their entire careers. Patterson "Patty" Fleming - the dapper maitre d' with a multitude of ties - is a favorite longtime fixture. Most afternoons, you can find him holding court in the main dining room as he catches up with the regulars before the dinner rush.

The property's centerpiece is the long green lawn that runs from the manor right down to the gold -sand beach, where chaises, palapas and hammocks offer plenty of places to relax between dips in the reef-sheltered sea. Days are spent taking a traditional tea on the patio, playing croquet or returning to the hammocks for a relaxing pre-dinner snooze.

The rooms and suites are tucked in cottages among stands of palms, allamanda, croton and hibiscus. Romance lingers everywhere, from the 18th-century great house to the inscribed plaques under palm trees planted on behalf of the couples who wed here - just one more way Nisbet keeps bringing people back. - D. S.

51

the possible dream

AS THE FULFILLMENT OF A LIFELONG DREAM goes, owning your own 17th-century inn on the dreamy island of St. Kitts is pretty hard to beat. So six years ago Kevin Horstwood sold his factory in Wales, trading cold, gray days for the sunny tropics as the latest proprietor of the Rawlins Plantation Inn.

"I've always loved the Caribbean, especially West Indian architecture," he says. Structures remaining from Rawlins' days as a plantation had already been put to good use: The stone tower of the old windmill became a sought-after honeymoon suite and the old foreman's office a daintily furnished cottage, while the fieldstone walls that once enclosed the sugar boiling plant came to frame a refreshing springfed pool. And when Kevin decided to add two new cottages to the property, he designed them in the local architectural vernacular so as to make them indistinguishable from the originals. With period furniture, mahogany floors and a private veranda, each suite ensconces guests in genteel comfort.

Kevin has revitalized other things at Rawlins as well, including booking a jazz trio to perform in the garden weekly during the winter season. Some things, though, have remained blissfully constant. There are still no TVs in the guest rooms - "haven't owned one myself for 25 years" - and diversions extend to nothing more strenuous than a game of croquet or tennis. Tha t's j list fine with the hundreds of contented guests for whom such tranquility forms the heart of the Rawlins experience. Simply being here is entertainment enough. - I. K.

the modern classic

AS YOU DRIVE THROUGH THE GRAND IRON gates of Montpelll!r Plantation - a Relais & Cha teaux hotel - you're bound to have certain expectations. And if being greeted with boundless en thusiasm by Ziggy and Rudder, the inn's two yellow labs, isn't one of them, well, it's still a welcome surprise.

It'sju st one of the special touches you'll find at the inn run by three generations of the Hoffman family,

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who have made gracious welcomes in anArchitectural Digest-chic ambience Montpelier's calling card.

Guests congregate for evening cocktails in the great room, surrounded by old stone walls complemented by a mix of period and contemporary furnishings. Hammocks strung between trees invite sea gazers to relax in a madras-like landscape of flamboyant trees and red and yellow flowers set against Nevis' green rolling hills. White chaises beckon sunbathers to relax around the 60-foot-iong pool, where clean lines and a

mod geometric tile mosaic offer a striking contrast to the 300-year-old sugar mill in the background.

Guest rooms are equal parts traditional and trendy, with modem amenities like flat-screen TVs set among tropical furnishings and dark wood floors.

However you choose to while away your days here, once night begins to fall, everybody returns to the inn for sun downers and tapas at Indigo, the ESSENTfALS, popular poolside bar. Just watch out

PAGE 87 for Rudder and Ziggy. - D. S.

A sleek pool. a canine welcoming committee and restfu I lawns are [ust some of Montpelier Plantation's special touches. Opposite:

Rawlins' converted windmill is ideal for newlyweds.

53

A crisscross trip of Aruba leads to rich cultural and natural experiences, from quiet shores to vibrant towns.

SEARCHING FOR I M N 0

THE PAST IS ALWAYS PRESENT ON ARUBA, WHERE WAVES OF CULTURE CRASH TO SHORE.

STORY BY RICH RUBIN II PHOTOS BY PENNY DE LOS SANTOS

The Ayo Rock Formations (above) and Arlkok National Park (right) offer a figurative walk back In time.

IN THIS BEAUTIFUL EXPANSE

of Arikok National Park, I'm all alone. Fast food has given way to the slow work of nature, and the "Can I help you?" of a megahotel concierge turns into the uncaring, inexorable power of wind and sea. Among the moonscape of snow-white dunes and russet - hued hills coated in cactuses, bearded goats graze on sparse beach grasses. Up on the cli.ff above the park's Boca Prins beach, on Aruba's east shore, I stand and watch as waves pour in, crashing on rocks and sending high sprays up over the cliff. The sound of the surf is relaxing after the clamor of casinos.

Over a sand dune and through the woods, I head back to my car. Rounding a corner, I find myself face to face wi th a herd of donkeys. I freeze. The donkeys, their startled ears on end, glare at me and move a step closer. I trip over a rock, and suddenly all donkey eyes are on me again. And what's more, there seem to be more of them now, their fellow creatures parading down across the hills. I dust myself off and inch slowly, in a sideways crab walk, to the car. As I get the door unlocked, their gaze turns from malevolence to mere curiosity, and then they're back to grazing. Just another silly human on their island.

As I exit this beau teo LIS lands cap e, I wan t to see more of how Aruba changed from this oasis of desert silence to the clangorous world we know today. That sounds a hundred times more fascinating than clocking hours on the beach, tossing dough into slot machines or downing Aruba Aribas at the nearest bar. Those things all have their purpose, for sure, and I'm no t saying they aren't a ton of fun. But 1 want to cast an eye backward in time to search for Aruban cul ture, tracing its roots to the countries from which it came and then seeing how the traditions of these places - the music, dance, food, language and very beliefs - have melded into a uniquely Aruban way of being.

"How does a person find the mix of cultures that makes Aruba what it is today?" asks historian Luc Alofs as we stand

5&

in Fort Zoutman, in Oranjestad on the west side of Aruba. He smiles broadly, Holland written all over his face. "Well, it's just a matter of opening yo ur eyes." As we stand in the fort, Aruba's oldest building and the site ofthe historical museum he curates, Luc outlines the history for me. I see cui tures colliding -no, not colliding, merging - as waves of history roll out in his stories. I pic ture a Carnival parade, with colorful floats lined up by nationality: the Arawaks, arriving in several waves from Venezuela; the Spanish, who derided Arub a as one of the "islas in utiles" (useless islands) and used it basically as a warehouse; the Dutch, who opened it for colonization; and the Africans, for contrary to local legend, there was indeed slavery on the island. I've got my work cut out for me to make sense, to make a whole, of it alL

IN SEARCH OF ARUBA'S FIRST INHABITANTS, I zigzag back east to Ayo Rock Formations along a twisting road on a high chaparral-covered cliff, I could be in Arizona - except for the deep blue sea below. Sitting on a roughcast stone bench in front of the formations, I'm surrounded by total quiet broken only by the crow of a dis tant rooster. Something abou t the place seems to silence people; I see a couple enter chattering away, only to turn mute the minu te they see the formations.

Stone steps lead me among the rocks. I climb over them, under them, among them. I make my way down a corridor overhung by large boulders. Suddenly I'm face to face with evidence of the Arawak Indians, Aruba's first visitors. On the side of a boulder lies the prize: petroglyphs created centuries ago, I marvel over concentric circles and archways, a figure that looks human and another that looks like a bird, their power undiminished after hundreds upon hundreds of years. The island's first immigran ts left their mark for the world to see, and all the hotels and shopping malls can never bring Aruba home to me as much as these simple, evocative rock drawings.

EVERY TONE, EVERY BEAT SEEMS TO BRING WITH IT AN ARUBAN IMAGE THAT FLIES AT ME FROM AROUND THE GLOBE.

History lives on in traditional dance performances and the cluttered walls of Charlie's Bar.

Three times I try to leave; three times I'm drawn back to the forms, so elemental and so eloquent. I return to a shady bench to sit and take in the scene - the quiet, the majesty, the deeply rutted boulders twisted over the cen turies in to the most incredible sculptures, those drawings beckoning to me across the millenniums. Before I know it almost an hour has passed. And I realize some thing even more in teresting as I stand up to leave. The couple I saw have disappeared. I never heard their departure, though every sound is audible here, down to the slightest rustle of wind. Were they somehow swallowed up by the boulders? Do the ancient boulder gods - the long-gone Arawak spirits - need to be appeased? Get a grip, I tell myself firmly. But there's something 0 the rworld ly about the place that allows, even encourages, such fanciful thinking. I wonder if a year or two from now I'll return to find a petroglyph of an embracing couple.

"Everything comes from somewhere else, and that makes Aruba," says my Aruban friend Francis Jacobs as we sit in the courtyard ofPapiamento Restaurant, in the northern town of Noord. Around us lights twinkle in the deepening dusk, reflected in the swimming pool of this Aru b an manor house so that the entire night seems filled with their flickering. The early 19tIIcentury structure glows in the soft lighting: the sloping tiled roof, the attached stucco chimney, the many tiny windows. Fellow diners speak in the soft tones of the local dialect, which is called, not entirely coincidentally, Papiamento, as it reflects a global reach that the restaurant's cuisine mirrors. I hear someone call bon noehi, good evening, and he could be speaking in Spanish - till he offers up a very Dutch -sounding danki to his server. When I point this out to Francis, he laughs, as if amused that I'm just discovering the many tongues that meld to make Papiarnento, The clink of glasses blends with the soft jazz and the guttural hum of the local tongue: the unique harmonies of enj oyment.

60

My kesh i yena arrives. Spicy Caribbean chicken mixed with cashews and raisins and topped with Gouda cheese: What could be more Aruban? I glance past my dish to the thick-walled historical house. As the maitre d' later shows us on a tour of the interior, Dutch an tiques, a copper stove and French prints rest cozily under thick-beamed ceilings, and an array of brio-a-brae sits on high wooden shelves inside .. But the well-decorated house is mainly used for parties and the rare Aruban rain day. How much nicer to be savoring global cuisine on this patio shaded by umbrellas, our chairs linen-draped, the garden strewn with statuary, potted cactuses and palms. By the time we're servedcoffee laced with ponche erema (an egg- based liqueur adapted from the Venezuelan standard), I've absorbed without even realizing it both the culinary and architectural culture of Aruba.

"IT'S A MATTER OF OPENI NG YOU REYES." These words resound in my mind as I make my way through Oranjestad, the island's capital, past garishly faux-Dutch shopping malls and strips of jewelry stores. As I turn the corner onto Wilhelminastraat, I gasp out loud at the gorgeous building I see. I must have walked by this lovely deep green facade with its delicate gingerbread trim a thousand times - but now I'm walking with my eyes open. I admire the Dutch roof tiles, the Caribbean ornateness of trim, the elegant stairway approach that looks like a European temple, the ornamentation that wouldn't look out of place in Portugal: Aru ba's m ul tinational parade in a nutshell.

"Do you know the story behind this building?" asks Yvonne Webb-Kook, director of the Monument Bureau, her blond hair showing hints ofthe Netherlands, her accent carrying a lilt of the Caribbean. She tens me about Eloy Arends, the local doctor who built the remarkable edifice for his young bride. Yvonne smiles as she describes the local custom that a man not many

his beloved till he has a house for her and that she not see the

house till its completion. "Imagine the poor young woman," she laughs, "who wasn't able to walk down this major street for three years while the house was being built!" I gaze at the finished product (now used, appropriately enough, for civil weddings): the pointy capitals, elaborately arched windows, balustraded balconies. And I somehow think she didn't mind the wait.

Every building has its own story, and every street holds gems like this one; there's j list too mu ch history here to remain blind to it. And it's not just in Oranjestad either: Stumbling out of Charlie's Bar, in the ramshackle town of San Nicolas, I'm amazed to find an art deco water tower. Driving up to Alto Vis ta chapel, set on a lonely hillside overlooking the sea, I'm reminded 0 f the Sp anish Catholic heritage that drives the island.

Visiting the new South Beach Centre shopping mall, I stumble upon an alfresco performance by the local galla band Sensacionales, and the entire dizzying spectacle of Aruban culture starts to hit me like the insistent beat of the tambu and conga drums, the sweet strings of the ukulelelike quarto, the jagged rhythm of the raspy guiro, the tintinnabulation of the steel-pan.

1 stand among the crowd, which chatters in

Papiamento and shrieks when Sensacionales launches into a favorite. And every tone, every beat seems to bring with it an Aruban image that flies at me from around the globe. Da DUM ba ba ba DUM, pounds the tamhu, and I picture a deco tower on a Caribbean street named after a Dutch painter. Da da DUM, ESSENTIALS, responds the conga, and 1 can practically tas te the PAGE 85 pan bati, like an Aruban polenta, and the sweettangy flavor oflocal fish draped in Spanish-style creole sauce. Bing poppa BING, ring the steel-pan drums, and a store named Supermercado Kong Hing pops into mind. Loo diDI la, la diD! Ia, sings the quarto with a syncopation that's pure Latin America, and 1 thrill to the memory ofthe dancers who electrified the stage at Cas di Cultura, their costumes a flare of color, their steps

jaunty with a Latin rhythm layered into a 3/4 beat, a waltz - an Aruban waltz ~ like none I've ever seen. Frrrrrat goes the guiro, and ba ba ba BAM crashes the tambu, the sounds irrepressibly joyful and perfectly Aruban-like the beauty with broad Du tch features and olive-y Spanish skin who is standing right next to me. "Each culture is a story, and stories passed along have a tendency to change." Yvonne's words sing throughout my brain. Frrrrrat repeats the guiro, driving the thoughts home deep.

I end my trip as I began it, in Arikok National Park, but the sights have a different meaning for me now. I stand with Jimmy Mijer and Julio Beaujon, two park employees, seeing the panorama wi th new eyes. The cac tuses, I realize, were, like everything else, brought from abroad (probably by birds who

carried their seeds). The donkeys who were my nemeses arrived with the Spanish. Even the landscape I see, which I'd thought original, has changed vastly since the days when the arid hillsides were swampland, "I miss my old Aruba," sighs Julio, speaking of the preresort days. "I would just jump the wall of my house and walk into the countryside," He talks about the succession of immigrants who have

changed the personality of Aruba as surely as

construction has altered its physical face: "Our whole identity since the Spanish came has been to mix all of these cultures, these beliefs." So what is Aruba, I ask. Jimmy says simply: "We adapt from different cultures. But we make it original."

1 look at these two men ~ one Italian/Indonesian/ Aruban/ Dutch, one Spanish/French. I look beyond them, past the hills and out to the sea, Aruba's eternal link to the immense world that sent waves of people here. And now I know: That's what Aruban cui ture is, and that's what makes the island so exciting. Today's travelers are no different from the centuries of people who came here from elsewhere, whether for a brief sojourn or a lifetime. At heart, Aruba is - and always has been - all abou t visitors and how they've made this island their own ...

WHAT'S NEW ON ARUBA

LEARN Want to explore S T A Y The Westin, long SHOP Palm Beach EAT Across the island, PLAY Zissles, a hot new
the culture of Aruba's one of the nicest hotels now has the ViUage and Aruba's restaurant scene entertainment destina-
Amerind ians over the on Palm Beach, is now the South Beach Centre, never stands still. One tion in the Paseo Herencia
centuries? The new home of a gallery devoted transforming it into an of the latest additions, mall, dazzles with las
Archaeological Museum is to Aruban art. Featuring uptown shopping, dining the Old Man and the Sea, Vegas-style shows and
the perfect spot. Artifacts a different artist every and night life area rivaling adds to the mix in tiny three-course dinners
from three periods of month, in mediums from downtown Oranjestad. Savaneta with a menu before transforming on
Indian immigration com- photography to painting With restaurants from that, as the moniker weekends into a nightclub
bine with state-of-the-art to ceramics to jewelry, it's Chinese and Japanese to indicates, concentrates with house, dance and
techniques to present a malar cultural plus on Su ri namese to Dutch and on seafood. Expected to other OJ-spun tunes till
Aruba's archaeological the high-rise hotel stri p. Italian and new specialty open this year: a Palm the wee hours. More
history. A must-see as a Isn't an original Aruban oil stores, the Palm Beach Beach spot specializing evidence that you can find
fantastic addition to the painting a more lasting area has become a pedes- in tapas called Espanola whatever you're looking
island's heritage. souvenir than a T-shirt? trian destination. Way. And more will come. for on Aruba. 62

EVERY BUILDING HAS A STORY, AND EVERY STREET HOLDS GEMS; THERE'S TOO MUCH HISTORY HERE TO REMAIN BLIND TO IT.

.. . ~

Beach is living right on it.

Opposite: Ken and Michelle

about Grace Bay beach, on

SLAND

o

s

Dreaming about selling off, packing up and settling down in the Caribbean? Meet three families who've taken the plunge, turning their propertyowning fantasies into happily-ever-after reality.

65

rflle Living Is Easy

"Bv the time we'd

of

finished our second

glass ofpinol.grigio,

- , -

. t t,"

we were In con ract,

EVERY MORNING, KEN PATTERSON AND HIS Wl_-,-_-,'fe, Michelle_, n,'se at 6:3_0 to ex_-er_- cise and_e_ ,njo_y some uninterrupted time together before the demands of the day in trude. But the Pattersons' workouts don't require driving to a stuffy, sweat-stained gym. Instead, the two simply step out to the bone-white sands of Grace Bay, on Providenciales, the largest of the Turks and Caicos islands, where their daily cardia consists of an hourlong power walk followed by a refreshing swim in the crystalline waters.

"It keeps me sane and reminds me why I'm here," says Ken, a former finance director. In 2007 the recently retired Irish couple began

looking for a Caribbean home. They were

already frequent visitors to the region and planned to divide their time between their residences in Ireland and a new pied-a-terre somewhere on the beach. Drawn by the tiny British territory's warm weather, financial stability, accessibility (just 90 min utes' flying time from Miami) and favorable tax climate, the Patter sons arrived in Provo with a couple of suitcases and a dream.

66

"For 'two weeks we went up and down Grace Bay looking at all the developments," says Michelle. "But we kept returning to Seven Stars." The couple were impressed by the facilities and construction quality of the plush 100-unit condo resort, which sits on 10 beachfron t acres at the Bay's midpoin t. They decided to buy in, retaining a real estate attorney and realtor to assist wi th their purchase. I t was a process that Ken, a sprightly 52-year-old with good looks reminiscent of Sir Richard Branson, describes as ludicrously easy.

"We chose three units, and over lunch with us, our realtor called each seller wi th our offer," he says. "By the time we'd finished our second glass of pinot grigio,

we were in contract." Paperwork 011 the $1.4 mi Ilion fully furnished 3,000-square-foot condo tookjust a week, a time frame not uncommon in Provo's high-end real estate market, where most purchases are transac ted in cash and the banking industry is strictly regulated. "Mortgage financing here, however, can be a very complex process," Ken cautions. "Bring cash!"

Michelle, a former telecommunications exec, spent the first few months accessorizing their three-bedroom ocean-view condo with bold art but has since begun applying herself to a variety of other post-retirement pursuits. "The population here is very transien t, so it's important to create a rou tine for yourself," she says, her blond curls dancing in the breeze. "I choose to do one project every quarter-year, and so far I've taken Pilates classes and French lessons, and now I'm learning to free-dive."

Despite making his official exit from the corporate world some four years ago, Ken has accepted a new position as chairman and chief operating officer of Seven Stars Investment Group, the company formed by owners who pooled their resources to buy the resort from the original developer. Managing the hotel and the interests of the largely absentee owners (most of whom place their property in the resort's thriving rental pool) fills his days. Yet he is careful to maintain a healthy life-work balance. "The owners are like family to each other, and we spend a lot of time socializing together," he says. "But we also have three or four other circles of friends. And when we want to leave Seven Stars behind, we escape on our boat, Al Fresco."

The Pattersons have fully embraced their new life on Provo, and their condo - which they'd intended to rent out for half the year while they returned to Ireland - hasn't spent more than a month at a time in the pool since they first purchased it. "We have our fur coats hanging up in our closet in Ireland and our ski suits in storage," Michelle says. "But nowwe spend about 11 months a year here, with quick trips up to New York for retail therapy. We go, and we really enjoy the hustle and bustle. Bu t then we come back, and we instantly realize why we love Provo so much." - SARAH GREAVES-GABBADON

+ Units rangefrom 70O-square-!ootstudios to 3,200-square-joot penthouses. From $445,000. 649-946-4474,. sevens tarsqracebay. com

Irish retirees Ken and Michelle Patterson fell in love with the not-quite-as-emerald isle of Provo, where they purchased

a condo at Seven Stars resort.

Villas dot the hills at Oyster Pond. a residential community on St. Martin's eastern shore. Opposite: Villa Arcadia's perfect poolside perch.

A Very Fine I-Iouse

"We're basking in the sunshine and thc

warm trade winds,"

Two HUNDRED INCHES OF SNOW PER YEAR, impassable roads and n. at a blade Of. grass to be seen from October to May - this was the bone-chilling reality for Wilson Gulick and Grace Swartz of Santa Fe, New Mexico. The retired university chemists, who lived for 23 years in the Upper Peninsula of M ichigan, understandably sought a refuge from the winter weather. "When you live in that kind of dreary, snowy place, you really need to get out and see the sun," says Grace. "We wanted a place where we knew it would be warm." They found it in bustling St. Martin.

The couple had been frequent travelers to the Caribbean - at least twice a year since 1980 - despite the time and effort it took to get there. "We'd drive about five hours to Green Bay," says Grace. "We'd stay there overnight, catch a plane from there

to Chicago, from Chicago to San Juan, and from San Juan to St. Martin. By the time we got there, we weren't interested in heading to another island."

Back in 1990 the couple purchased a time share at the Belair Beach Hotel, in Philipsburg. But they found the scheduling difficult to coordinate. "When university is in session, you're there; you can't take a vacation whenever you want to," says Grace. So in 1995 they made the decision to purchase outright. After viewing what was then a very limited inven tory of condos, the couple decided on a whim to check out a single-family home in Oyster Pond, on the island's east side. With three bedrooms and bathrooms, it was the perfect size for their family of three. "There were lots of things that we liked about the house," says Wilson. "It's on a hill abou t 80

meters [262 feet] above sealevel, so it's not going to get flooded in a hurricane, and we liked the breeze on the east side of the island."

The couple also agreed tl1at the space and privacy of a standalone home (as compared to a condo) were worth the extra expense. They employ a housekeeper and gardener to tend to the house when they're away and have become close to both families. "You get to know these people very well," says Grace. "They become like part of your family; you go to the kids' weddings."

The house, Villa Arcadia, spends most of the year in a rental pool operated by Remax Island Properties. But the couple reserve as much time as they can for themselves, usually between 10 and 12 weeks a year. Rentals help offset some of the monthly maintenance costs of $1,600. "You need one or two per month so as to not spend a lot of money ou t of your 0\\111 pocket," says Wilson.

Though the island is much changed since they first boughta traffic j am in those days me an t a herd of goats crossing the road, says Grace - both husband and wife are happy with their purchase. "St. Martin is very cosmopolitan," says Grace. "People say it's the friendly island, and I think that's true. I f you have a laid-back attitude, it's a really nice place to be." And instead of slogging through snow, the co uple spend most mornings lounging on their pool deck. "We wake up, take our coffee out there and have this marvelous view," says Wilson. "We're basking in the sunshine and the warm trade winds." - BEe KY S T RA US 5

+ From $2,100 in low season ($2,800 high). Remax Island Properties; 011-599-543-6306; remaxislandproperties.com

69

ROOlTIS With a View

E

ARL MIX ~ AS HIS WIFE, MARCIA, WILL TELL you - is a consummate beach-sitter, Crane Beach - as many who have been there will tell you - is the consummate Caribbean beach. So it's only fitting that the

Mixes' home sweet home away from home is located directly on that famous strand on Barbados' southeastern coast.

Not that owning a piece of the rocky isle was part of their master plan. The Mixes, who live near Wilmington, Delaware, have been Caribbean regulars for years, traveling to Antigua, Puerto Rico, Martinique, St. Vincent and the Grenadines and

St. Lucia. They eventually made it to Barbados, Marcia says, "because it was exotic, it was warm and we could get there."

Once they went, they made a point of going back. And back.

And back again. But the idea of buying a Barbadian getaway didn't take root until their fou rth or fifth visit, when they saw an ad for the fractional ownershi p program at the Crane Residence Club. "We had been to the Crane - and its beach - a number of times, so we were really familiar with it," recalls Earl, a retired publishing executive. "And we knew we liked Barbados - it's a stable, friendly country with easy access from the U.S. East Coast - so it wasn't a big leap to considering ownership."

AI though the couple have a summer place on Long Island, in New York, they weren't interested in managing a property such a long distance from home, and a time share was a little too openended. Fractional ownershi p, however, struck a perfectly happy medium, As Marcia notes, "You get to pick the place you're going to stay, and you know it's yours for the time you contract it."

The Mixes liked the place they picked so much that they added more weeks to the two they first bought, ultimately securing six consecutive weeks between three units in one of the property's newest buildings. "Our original historic unit was beautiful but lacked an elevator and a dishwasher, things we decided were increasinglyimportant," says Earl. "Our present units are spacious, with modern amenities and amazing views of Crane Beach."

Moves between the units are facili tated by the resort, so having three distinct units is hassle-free, plus, as Marcia points out, each has its own advantages: "One has a really tremendous view, but another has a full-width 28-foot private pool."

Aside from the obvious benefits ofliving in Barbados for six weeks every winter, the couple enjoy a close circle of friends among their fellow fractional owners. After spending their days relaxing at the resort, touring the island or walking along the beach that drew them here, the Mixes mingle with their neighbors at the weekly cocktail party or over alfresco dinners on their terrace. "We love our time in Bar bados," says Earl. "I t's a happy topicfor us." - CYNTHIA PSARAKIS

+ From $173,000for 13 weeks. 246-423-6220; thecrane.com

I'vegota month or two

Lean come and ••••••• go as I please

It's paradise •••• -whyleave?

BUYING HAPPINESS, ISLAND-STYLE

Everyone wants to live the Caribbean dream, but which option fits your needs best?

Igettwo weeks off, max

VACATION OWNERSHIP

Better known as ti m e shari ng, th is p I a n req u ires the Ie a st com m itment of ti me and mo ney. Buyers tv plcall y purchase a set week at a resort every year, but a recent trend of assigning

points rather than weeks allows more flexibility and the option to bu y 10 n ger Ii m e i nere ments,

FRACTIONAL OWNERSHIP An upgrade to the time share philosop hy. frac tio n a I prog ram sallow yo u to own interest in the property itself

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70

RESORT OWNERSHIP For carefree types. buying a resi-

dence in a full-service resort offers the best of both worlds: You own the place, but the resort's management com pa ny takes care of ma i ntena nee -

plus you can usually enter your unit into the resort's rental pool when you're not there.

OUTRIGHT OWNERSHIP Few things cement your relationship to a place like buying your own chunk of it Options range from

co nd as to private island s - b u ye rs are limited only by their bank account, th e island's 0 wners h Ip laws and how much in absentia upkeep they're willing to take on.

Pink-tinged Crane Beach entices visitors to Barbados. Opposite: The refined residences at the Crane resort convince them to stay.

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For n-ore information. contact vour travel profess iona I or C2Isa de Ca moo at 1800.B 77.3643 • 809.52:>. B698 Email: re~1(~campo_com_do

SPEC AL PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

At Dreams Punta Cana, couples, friends and families alike will have the opportunity to relax in the freeform swimming pool that winds from the lobby down to the beach, complete with swim-up bar, in addition to dining in six a la carte restaurants and a vast buffet. For recreation, guests can engage in a number of fun daytime activities, including windsurfing, canoeing, bouncing on the ocean trampoline, darts, ping-pong, cooki ng classes, Span ish classes a nd much more. Kids wi II enjoy playi ng on a pi rate-sh ip waterslide while teens will be entertained in the Core Zone teens' club with a mechanical bull, climbing wall, baseball cage and Xbox.

Guests staying nearby at Dreams Palm Beac h might try Euro-b u ngee jumping, ta ke da nce or Spanish lessons, windsurf and enjoy big-screen movies on the beach and exciting nightly entertainment.

Similarly, Dreams La Romana keeps everyone from tots on up happily at play. Ride bikes, learn merengue steps, take tennis lessons .... and that's just the beginn i ng. like its sister properties, Dreams La Romana provides Un I i mited-Luxury" featuring premium amenities, a la carte restaurants and bars serving premium drinks, Simply sit back and relax by the pool with a drink or play at the ful.ly stocked watersports center. For those seeking a sublime atmosphere of pure indulgence, visit the Dreams Spa for a wide variety of massages and treatments. All qua lity, with no taxes or tips .. Live the Dreams dream. 866-2DREAMS, dreamsresorts.com

Spin the word excess into a tasteful setting an d you'll begin to grasp the glory of the Hard Rock Hotel & Casino Punta Cana. The vibe is chic, with the Hard Rock's signature stylish edge. Add to that 1,790 all-inclusive rooms and suites, 14 swimming pools, four swim-up bars, 12 restaurants, a spa with 48 treatment rooms and the island's largest casino ... are you impressed yet? Whether you're seeking a fun family vacation or a romantic getaway, a playful escape with friends or a spa retreat, the Hard Rock has you covered.

Perhaps the resort offers so much to do because that's what it wi II take to lure

Embrace the world's most luxurious all-inclusive resort experience. Offering exquisite cuisine, award-winning spas, lavish accommodations and utterly pampering personalized service in the world's most spectacular oceanfront locations.

The Pure Freedom to Just Be

Life enriching activities (tango lessons and wine tasting) • Private Pools & Beach Areas with Bali Beds & Valet Service. Royal Service (exclusively for adults). Family Concierge (personalized vacation experience for families) features a full compliment of VIP services and amenities including private beach and pool areas with valet service .

•

%ffJ!.adin/fHotel: of rhffWorld .

For more information contact your travel agent, call 888.741.5600 or visit WWW.FARADISUS.COM

PARADISUS PALMA REAl,DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

PARADISUS PUNTA CANA,DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

PARADISUS PLAYA CONCHAL,COSTA RICA

A Sol Melia Hotels & Resorts Brand. 'Members include Paradisus Palma Real Resort, Playa Conchal Resort.

you out of your room. No matter what level' of accommodation you choose, you'll rest peacefully on Sleep Like a Rock~ bedding, unwind in a double Jacuzzi, have unlimited access to in-room whiskey, teq ui la, rum and vodka dispensers, a nd be provided with comfy robes and slippers .. Splurge on the Rock Star Suite'iand you'll spread out into four bedrooms with a living room, full kitchen, sprawling terrace, private pool and pool table.

But who has time to rest indoors when the beach and pools beckon? Eight pools face the ocean, three a lagoon - and three more are ideal for children. Another poola lazy river type - meanders around the property, Guests can play tennis, dance in the nightclub, ride bicycles. play billiards or ping pong, catch an amphitheater concert, join in daily activities, participate in theme parties, enter a beach soccer or volleyball game - and it's all paid for.

Th e sa me goes for mea Is, Choose to dine on teppanyaki-style Japanese fare at Zen, Italian specialties at Ciao, Mexican favorites at Los Gallas, brick oven pizza at Pizzeto, fusion meals at Baccarat, steak at Taro .' .. we could go on. The Hard Rock Hotel & Casino Punta Cana takes its wine lists seriously, meaning you'll be able to purchase excellent wines from around the world. Top off any repast with a cup of specially selected Costa Rican coffee or top shelf spirits such as Chivas Regal or Absolut.

The spa is spectacular, with 65,000 square feet of indulgence. The hydrotherapy options alone are striking - a clay hamman, an ice room, a steam room with chromotherapy, Swiss showers ...

Now that the Hard Rock has brought its edgy escapism to the sunny Dominican Republic, the island is more irresistible than ever. 888-762-5002, hardrock.com/puntacono

Bliss doesn't get better than this. If you lodge at the year-old NHRoyal Beach Grand luxury Resort, you'll spend your Dominican Republic vacation in a tranq ui I parad ise. You might never leave the beach; between lounge chairs, warm weather, silky sand, tempting water sports and waterfront res-

SPECIAL PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

shore. You'll be surrounded only by fellow adults, as guests must be at least 18 to visit.

Perhaps you'll step away to spend time in or by the pool. This serene and pristine temptation snakes through the resort's gardens like a canal, offering a delightful way to cool off. Enhance that experience with a refreshing beverage in the poolside bar. Bask in the sun or enjoy the palapa-style shade while sipping your beer or cocktail.

If you prefer your cocktails elsewhere, step up to the Coral Beach Bar, which is located right on the sand, or the Havana Lobby Bar, serving up stylish martinis in the air-conditioned lobby. Any will be a wonderful prelude to your meals, which, like everything else at NH Roya I Beach, are included in the price. Feast on Mexican fare at EI Mortero, fusion cuisine at the avantgarde Pure, or international flavors at the Grand Royal Festival buffet.

Your oversized room or suite will welcome you with luxurious amenities and tropical colors. But who has time to lounge? A discotheque, live music, a casino, a stateof-the-art fitness center and spa, a bowling alley and a paintball area will command the time you're not dining or sunbathing.

Then again, you can hop down the beach any time to NH Real Arena, a sister ali-inclusive enclave that welcomes families. Here you can enjoy all the offerings, including four restaurants, sports and entertainment, without paying an extra penny. Bowling is available for a fee.

If romance is in the air, consider marrying at either NH Punta Cana resort. You'll find a variety of romantic ceremony and reception venues, value-priced packages, a flexible event team and scrumptious menus to make your big day dreamy. 866-978- 7872, nh-roya/beach.com, nh-realarena.com

Whether you're 4 or 84, you'll shout Yabba Dabba Doo! when you lodge at the Melia Caribe Tropical All Inclusive Beach & Golf Resort. Situated on a coveted strand of Punta Cana beach, the Melia is an allinclusive resort designed for the whole family. The Yabba Dabba Dool refers to its FI i nstones theming fa r kids, from a Bedrock-

tau ra n ts. you need n' t step away from th e i nfl uenced ba za a r, ga rde nand sw i rn m in g

-.~ CATIONS.cA..w 800-517-2000

pool. to children's clubs with names like Baby Rock, Bamm Bamm and Cool Club.

Don't think the Melia Caribe Tropical is heaven only for kids. It's 1,312 accommodat ions and nearly end I ess amen ities ap pea I to even the most sophisticated adults. But let's start with the rooms. Even the Mel la's most modest accommodations are junior su ites. They inc Iud e not only a comforta hi e bed with TV and private bathroom but also a mini cooler, a living room with sofa and a fully furnished balcony or terrace.

Upgrade to a Royal Service accommodation and you'll also be treated to a pillow menu, buffet breakfast in a private Royal Service lounge, butler and concierge services, and access to private Gabi Beach with its own exclusive bar, restaurant and enterta i nment.

But who has time for lounging around the suite? At Melia Caribe Tropical, you can relax on the beach. You can enjoy the water via kayak, canoe, windsurfer, water bike, Sunfish sailing, even diving lessons in the pool. Did we mention 10 freeform and lagoon-style swimming pools?

On land, you can challenge yourself on a climbing wall, play tennis on eight courts (for a fee), join in weekly theme parties and enter group activities, Teenagers congregate in the arcade while little ones make new friends in the kid clubs. Melia also boasts an exciting casino, two spas and a salon. It's located across the street from the Cocotal Golf & Country Club, where you can reserve a tee time.

Dining is always a pleasure at Melia Caribe Tropical, where 10 ala carte restaurants and three buffets provide plenty of choices. Try traditional Dominican cuisine at EI Guarapo. Experience robust Mexican fare at La Hacienda. For French, opt for Ma Maison. Italian, gourmet, Japanese, fusion and American restaurants are also available for satisfying meals.

If you spot Fred and Wilma, that's just a bonus. 800- 33-MEUA, melia.com

From Pebbles to spa indulgences, the Dominican Republic has it all. £,.

Su rprisi ngly attorda ble luxu ry on G ra ce Bay. Ret i pi en! of a Iravele r's Choice Awa rd for 2006. Roya I West Ind ies is a n a II· su ite, luxu ry. beachside condom i ni u m resort Ieatu ri ng Stud i os and 1 and 2 bedroom Suites, Perfed for honeymooners, sun lovers and families alike. Enjoy non-motorized wate r sports a nd fa bulou s meals at the reso rt's internationa I rests u ra nt, Mango Reef.

reservat iOrls·a roya lwestindies.corn 1-800-332-4203 www.royalweslindles.com

THE MERIDIAN CWB ON PINE CAY

An exc I usive hideaway on apr ivate ly-owned isla nd. Just 13 spat io us hotel rooms and severa I

re nta I homes fro nti ng di redly on a spectac ula r 2 mile wh ite -sa nd beach that you wi II Dilen have all to you rself Elegant cuisine, always i nciudi ng fresh seafood, ba refoot info rrnal ity a nd a friend Iy sta fl. No crowds, no ca rs, no hassles. The Caribbean of days gone by.

866-746·3229 or 649-946-7758 reservationssrnerieiencleb.corn www.meridianclub.com

Ocean Club and Ocean Club West, deluxe beachfront suites, sit on the powder- soli sands of G race Bay Beach on the isla n d

of Provi dencia les. Stay at one and yo u are always a guest at the other. Enjoy 3 pools, 3 resta u rants, 3 tenn is cou rts, spa a nd fitness center, nearby golf and much more.

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OC[AN QUB RfSOR.l'S

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1-800·457-8787 res@oeecnclubresorts.com www.ocearldubresorts.com

THE TUSCANY ON GRACE BAY

Though guests love the I uxu ry and amenities of our oceanfront suites, what tru Iy sets the Tuscany apa rt is service and hospitality We want to help you have an unforgettable Turks and Caicos vacation. Come discover why our guests write "Best Vacation Ever" in their TripAdvisor reviews.

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THE TUSCANY

J.888-SEE-TUSCANY inlo@lh.etllscanyresort.com www.lhetuscanyresorl.com/ell

Treat yourself to time for just the two of you. With the Westin and the romantic atmosphere of St. John, Virgin Islands,

we make it easy to focus on one another.

~'OR MOI<E INFORMATIONOR TO MAKE A RESERVATION. ViSIT WESTINRESORTSTJOHN.COM/ROMANCECTL OR CALL 1.888-627'7206

THEWESTIN

ST. JONI< F<~~Il"Rl !; YI~~ ~~

The Alexandra aile rs un de rs tated I uxu ry

on one of the most bea utilu I beaches in the world, Grace Bay Beach. Superbly

a ppoi nted ocean! ront a nd ocean view suites, warm friendly service and extensive resort a rneniti es awa it to ref res hand renew you.

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t::'-I) I 00 S ta rwocd Hat ~I:=; &- Re!':"O ns '\VOl I dw ide, r ne. /111 R i 8h1::l Reserved _ SPG, P I"o!": k: n-ed G ucar, Westin and their logos are the trade rna rlz:-; of Srarwood Hovels. & Resorts Worldwide. Inc •• or its effiftates. For Ful! term» &. condnlons vlsu westlusrlohn.corn

1-800-704-9424 www.~lex~nd ra reso rt.eom

Find Fabulous Travel Specials to

suite is deliberarelv missing a fourth wall, inviting sunsets ~nd stars ,mo f·ragnm<.;e,l~den tradewinds inside, to be an inrirnare pan of your magical Ladera experience.

The view goes on joreoer, S(} wiU the memories.

758.459.6600 I www.ladera.com I Toll Free 866.290.0978

www.caribbeantravelmag.com/ destination/turks-caicos

FREE TRAVEL INFO

travel compan on

ANGUILLA

1.. Carlmar Beach Clu b: If you like beach. you'll love Carimar at the water's edge Meads Bay, Anguilla. Page 86

ARUBA

2. Amsterdam Manor Beach Resort: Warm smiles. friendly staff. spacious ful'ly-equipped studios & surtes, fine dining and great amenities. Page 30

3. Aruba Manlott Resort & Steaarls Casino: $50 million renovation complete! Aruba's largest rooms and balconies. Spa, Casino and 7 restaurants I bars onslte. Ask about Tradewinds Club, Page 30

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7. The Westin Resort & Casino, Am ba: Located. on the luxurious strip of Palm Beach amidst sparkling blue water. Page 30

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8, Our tuceva Beach & Golf Resort: Something for

eve rvone, Cha m pi onsh i p golf courses. a world-class spa. a Vegas"style casino. island water sports and much more! Page 21

BELIZE

9. Belize Tourism Board:

Mother Nature's best kept secret. On the Caribbean Coast of Central America 2 hours from the US. Page 16, C3

82 CARIBEl,EAN TRAVEL+LlFE

10. Exotic Caye: Your relaxation destination on Ambergris Caye. PageC3

11. Mayan Princes.s Hotel: A paradise for divers. snorkelers and beach lovers ... our beachlront hotel offers first class accommodations and service. Page C3

12. Radi'sson Fort George: Full service hotel & marina; 102 alc rooms with full amenities & dive shop. Page C3

13. Roatan Charter: Your one call source to a perfect vacation in Honduras and Belize. Page C3

14. Sunbreeze Hotel: A perfect getaway on Ambergris Caye. A full-service resort with a fresh water pool. Page C3

CAYMAN ISLANDS

15. Cayman Islands Department of Tourism:

Stay with us for a few days and we'll stay with you forever. Page C4

16. Sunset House: Beautifully renovated rooms, walking distance to George Town, meal packages, dive shop. Cathy Church photo. Page 89

17. The Reef Resort: All beachfront luxury suites, pure beach relaxatlon. the Barefoot Man, what more could you want? Page 87

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18. Apple Vacations: Apple Vaca t io n s p rov id es a ffo rdab le, top-quality vacation packages from U.S. departure cities nationwide to vacation destinations. Page 75

19. Casa De Campo: Premier resort in La Romana synonymous with Caribbean elegance. Celebrated golf, family activities, signature service and style.

Page 76

20. Hard Rock Hotel & Casmo, Ptlnta Cana: Experience the All-Inclusive Hard Rock Hotel & Casino Punta Cana and save up to 15% off! Page 79

21. N H Hotels: All-inclusive luxury awaits you at NH Royal Beach and N H Real Arena. Page 76

HONDURAS

22. Las ii'?ocas Resort & Dive Center: Dive or snorkel from the doorstep of your bungalow. The perfect setting for your tropical get-away vacation. Page 86

23. Roatan Charter: Your one call source to a perfect vacation in Honduras and Belize. Page 86

JAMAICA

24. The Jewel Dunn's River Beach Resort; Located mere moments from spectacular Dunn's River FaiLs. The perfect soc t fo r coup les, ho nevrn 00 n e rs and even weddings. Page 87

MEXICO

25. Hacienda Tres Rlos: Nature. culture and experience welcome you. Page 35

26. Isla Mujeres Promotion Board: The most beautiful place in paradise. Page 9

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Boa rd: Exc lte yo u r sen ses an d live th e magic, b ea uty, Fe taxa tio n and adventure of the Riviera Maya. Page 13

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29. Beaches: Voted the world's best ell-lncluslve family resortsJamaica. Turks and Caicos,

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Discover Paradisus all-inclusive resorts in Costa Rica, the Dominican Republic. and Mexico. Page 77

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ST. LUCIA

35. Anse Chastanet: Romantic 6DO-acre resort hideaway, with two 'beaches, eroal reefs, biking trails. spa ,. two re sta u ran ts and bar. Page 22

36. Ladera Resort: Romantic mountain top paradise, all rooms open to the breezes with private p lu nge poo Is, ext ra ord ina ry cuisine. Page 81

TOBAGO

37. Tobago House of Assembly: Perfection. Tobago is perfect for dive rs, rom ant ie s, beach lovers, and outdoor adventure seekers" Page 23

TURKS AND CAICOS

38.. Alexandra Resort & Spa:

Escape the ordinary with firstclass oceanfront vacation rental su ites an down e rsh i p accommodations. Page 81

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CARIBBEANTRAVE LMAGCO M

* Simply mail the attached reader response card, fax toll-free to 888-847-6035, or visit CARIB'BEANTTRAVELMAG.COM/;FREEINFO for direct access to each advertiser's website and free information,

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40. Royal West Indies Resort 44. Turks & Caicos Tourtsrn: 47. Sligar Beach
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Spacious, beautifully appointed experience. Great honeymoon or
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43.. The Tuscany: The Tuscany 46. The auecaneer Hotel:
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John, USVI : Page 84

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Jamaica: Page 85

Coming in 2011

AU New Best of the Caribbean Television and Web Series More interactive programming with voting, new video and AU New Television Episodes

Catch our latest episode on our new YouTube Channel Cari bbeanTraveIMag.com/youtube

MA RCH 2011

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CARIBBEAN TRAVE L+ LI FE 83

VILLA VACATIONS

Caribbean Villas & Resorts Management

We offer 110 of St. John's finest finest luxury viUas & condos, w/ privacy, beautiful vi ews, pools, hot tubs, ten nis or b eachfront toea ti ens, Ou r diverse sele etion, fro m

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Destination St. John

A unique & exclusive selection of private vacation homes on the beautiful island of st. John, U.s.v.I. Private waterfront & hiU -slde homes ranging from luxurious villas to Caribbean cottages. All offer lush landscaping, private decks and glorious ocean views. Most with pools or hot tubs. Personalized,

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Getaway to the most exotic destination in America, 5t. John, US Virgin Islands! Catered To Vacation Homes offer a bit of paradise for every taste & budget from basic to luxurious. Our private homes accommodate 2-12 people, are beautifully furnished & landscaped, all with breathtaking sea views, wi pools or spas. Near Cruz Bay, the Virgin Islands National Park & the best beaches, each horne has fully equipped kitchen,linens, TV, DVD, stereo, gas grill, beach chairs, beach towels & coolers, CALL 800-424-6641 FAX 340-693-8191 E-MAIL info@cateredto.com [ATEREDTQ.(OM

Calypso Realty - St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands

Isla nd-s ty Ie livi ng ... fora we ek ora lifetirn e. We offer rnagn if i cent pro pe rt i es from beachside condos to luxurious pool villas. Beautifully appointed, fully equipped, maid service, pools and/or beaches, all with extraordinary views of turquoise water, palm fringed islands & lush flowered landscaping. Calypso Realty is a boutique fuU service real estate company located on 5t. Thomas. PO Box 12178, 5t. Thomas, VI 00801 TOLL FREE (800) 747-4858 CALL (340) 774-1520. Visit WWW,(ALYPSOREALTYCQM

84 CARIBBEAN TRAVEl+LlFE

Luxury Retreats - Private Villas

Absolutely every kind of traveler can find a villa that's suited just perfectly for them. Over 1500 Hand-picked & inspected villas with complimentary concierge services. From St. Barts to Mykonos, from Oahu to Belize, from Barcelona to Thailand. Choose from I to 10 bedrooms; with a large segment that range from $250-$1200

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ESSENTIALS

Where to Stay WESTIN RESORT & CASINO »Style: Modern high-rise It Location: Palm Beach n Accommodations: 481 rooms decorated in a cool contemporary style It Rates:

From $180 in low season ($299 high); check website for deals. n Amenities: Restaurants, spa, fitness center, pool, kids club, live music and magic shows, gallery featuring local artists» Contact: 800-937- 8461; westinaruba.com

Wh .... to Eat CHARLIE'S BAR II Set.ting:

San Nicolas It Atmosphere: This quirky bar is packed with hanging license plates, banners, signs, baseball caps, etc. II Contact: 297-584-5086; charlies bararuba.com I) OLD FISHERMAN I) Setting:

Downtown Oranjestad n Cuisine: Local and heavy on the seafood )J Atmosphere:

Locals and tourists mingle at this cheery spot with rust-colored walls, bright blue pillars and undersea photos. I) Recommendations: The Jan Semeleer (a whole fish served with creole sauce) and a side of pan ba ti II Price: En trees from $13

MA RCH 2011

Villas by Linda Smith

"The best source for information on rental viliasin Jamaica is Villas by Unda Smith" Conde Nast Traveler. More than 60 exclusive villas adorn this impressive collection on the coast Travel & Leisure dubbed "tbe Jamaican Riviera." Remarkable beach front homes, sprawling mountaintop estates, intimate hideaways, Large or small, each has staff (chef, butler, housekeeper, laundress) and private pool This may be the most pampered and relaxing vacation you've ever experienced. Whether a wedding, anniversary, or unforgettable birthday week for toddlers or tycoons, this is where you can live in the lap of luxury but never don a coat or tie, pearls or pumps. Nannies, masseuses and drivers available. Golf, tennis, water sports an d bea r hes on site or nearby. Hand ieap access i b Ie. Favorite destination for memorable family reunions. Children welcome! "Once you've stayed in one of Linda's staffed villa, you'll never go back to another vacation style again."

CALL 301"229-4300

EMAIL linda@jamaicavillas.com lAMAKAVILLAS.COM

» Contact: 297-588-3648; theoldfisher manaru ba. com» PAPIAMENTO RESTAURANT » Setting: Noord, just ou tside Oranj estad 10 Cuisine: International with local touches )J Atmosphere: The courtyard of a traditional Aruban manor house, decorated with twinkling lights, statuary and potted plants around the swimming pool» Recommendations: The Neptune -lobster, fish and shrimp - served "on the stone" (on a large slab of marble) » Price: Entrees from $28)1 Contact: 297-594-5504; papia men torestaurant.corn It PINCHOS GRILL & BAR II' Setting: Oceanside, on the edge of Oranjestad II Cuisine: The tasty skewers (pinellos) after which it's named, from local fish to a variety of meats II Atmosphere: On a pier jutting into the ocean, it's perfect for sunsets, with comfy couches and regular table seating. It Rec.ommendations: The skewered tenderloin with rum-infused blue cheese. Must-do starter: the signature salsa salad. It Price: Entrees from $19 It Contact: 297-583- 2666; aru barestaurants .corn II YEMANJA WOODFIRED GRILL It Setting; Downtown Oranjestad It Cuis.ine: Meat, fish and even desserts cooked on the mesquite grill I) Atmosphere: Lots of wood and j aun ty fish-therned stained glass inside, alfresco on the patio» Recommendations: The woodfire-grilled vegetable salad; add flavorful chunks of grilled chicken, beef or seafood. » Price: Entrees from $24 )J Contact:. 297- 588-4711; yemanja-aruba.corn

Wh.re to Play ARIKOK NATIONAL PARK 1I Aruba's national park covers almost 20 percent of the island, offering hiking, birdwatching, beaches, petroglyphs and caves. 297-585-1234; arubanationalpark.org » FORT ZOUTMAN II A cultural triple play - the building is Aruba's oldest, the Historic Museum inside is fascinating, and Tuesday night's Bon Bini Festival is held in the courtyard, with a wide array of traditional food, music, dance and art. 297-588-6099 »AYO ROCK FORMATIONS It Eerie rock formations, great views and Arawak petroglyphs, aruba.com It CAS DI CULTURA II A program of local music, dance, theater and other arts. 297- 582-1010; casdicultura.aw

What to Know TOURIST INFORMATION: 800-862-7822;. aruba.com » DOCUMENTS:

A passport is required. Conveniently, you can clear U.S. customs at Aruba's airpor t. » GEnl NG THERE:. Aruba is about a threehour flight from Miami and five from New York. Most major carriers - American, Continental, Delta, United, US Airways - have direct fiigh ts to Arub a from Miami and major East Coast cities. II DIALING IN: 011 + 297 before the local number. I) CURRENCY: Aru ban guilder (US $1 = 1.79 AWG), although u.s. dollars are accepted in most places. II GEnlNG AROUND: A car is a must for any real exploration of the island; all the major car rental firms operate on Aru ba from kiosks at the airport. '*'

CARIBBEAN TRAVEL+LlFE as

C:ifh'~'lr BI.:,ICh Club, 'nc~dcl.ll.n \k"d llllY O<:JLh en the islundof l\nglUlI:a. (r:~tLlrml.: snuw-whuc .;ands, 11nli' fI'lIU'C .. bllle war~",. in\ ires ynu III c;'Ip.;;ricnl.:C 3 bc;lch like no other.

ANGUILLA., :BfutiSH wen tN'DIES Call 1-866-270-3764,

Ofl"U11 your (fa vclul<:cnt.

HONDURAS

A full-service PADI Dive Resort ri ght on the Beach I Dive Roatan's Marine Park from Ihe doorstep of you r room. All of our bungalows have a/c, private porch with ha m mock and ocea n view. Check

out our website for S peci a I. offers!

Toll Free: (877) 379-8645 (US) +504-408-5760 (Honduras)

Use OUf free travel service 10 make your Honduras vacation easy. Lowest airfares, best accommodations,

i ndvidual ized tours, free broch ures, DVD's, a nd a friendly staff ready to ta I k to you a bout our favorite Central American destination, Since 1981.

1-800·282·8932 I 352-588-4131

us. VIRGIN 'ISLANDS-

U(I<OI~ I1.JO~" .tIIlOMIOlii.

~f1"M

nzeanbkr.6e.

A true Caribbean Experience! Small and intimate, family owned and managed, all oceanfront rooms. All Inclusive or room-only rates with two popular restaurants and the friendliest staff anywhere.

~

800-524-4746

St Croix's legendary Buccaneer Resort -138 luxurious rooms, 3 beaches, golf, tennis, waters ports. spa, kids' camp, fine dining. Self-contained, family-owned & operated. Historic Hotels of America

800-255-3881 www.thebuccaneer.com

Beachfront location & 5 minutes from downtown shopping. 40 Oceanfront condos ranging from Studio to 4Bdrm starting at $110. Private balconies, kitchens, AlC, free WiFi by the pool, & more!

~"iIo 'IIii" "

www.sugarbeachstcroix.com

ESSENTIALS

Whe,. to Stay GOLDEN ROCK INN" Style:

Moun tainside cottages in a lush setting ~ Location: Charlestown, Nevis" Accommodations: 14 rooms» Rates: From $200 in low season ($260 high) II Amenities: Two restaurants, pool, hiking trails II Contact: 869- 469-3346; golden-rock.com» HERMITAGE» Style: In tim ate family- run complex II tecation: Gingerland, Nevis )0 Accommodations:

Rooms for up to 28 guests )0 Rates: From $185 in low season ($395 high), including breakfast II! Amenities: Restaurant, pool, tennis courts, riding stables II Contact: 800-682-4025; herrnitagenevis.corn II MONTPELIER PLANTATION II Style: Grand estate turned Relais & Chateaux hotel II Location: Charlestown, Nevis» Accommodatlens: 19 rooms and suites" Rates: From $345 in low season ($545 high), including full breakfast and afternoon tea II Ame.nltles: Two restaurants, pool, private beach nearby, tennis courts» Contact: 869- 469-3462; montpeliernevis.com II NISBET PLANTATION BEACH CLUB II Style: Secluded, romantic beachfront resort» Location: St. James, Nevis II Accommodations: 36 rooms II Rates: From $383 in low season ($656 high) II Amenities: Three restaurants, spa, fitness center, oceanfront pool and hot tub, tennis courts, croquet lawn II Contact: 800-742- 6008; nisbetplantation.com II OTTLEY'S PLANTATION INN II Style: Grand manor house II Location: Ottley's Village, St. Kitts » Accommodations: 23 rooms» Rates: From $194 in low season ($244 high) »Amenities: Restaurant, spa, pool, tennis courts, croquet lawn II Contact: 800-772~3039; ottleys.com 11 RAWLINS PLANTATION INN II Style: Upscale, relaxed retreat D location:

Mount Pleasant, S1. Kitts II Accommodations: 12 rooms» Rates: From $186 in low season ($280 high), with full English breakfast and afternoon tea II AmenitIes: Restaurant, pool, grass tennis court, croquet Ii Contact: 869-465-6221; rawlinsplantation.corn *'

MARCH 2011

87

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Ih~R .. efGUAlUNTE[S rh~ ICIW,sr "i!son rurt in croll1d Caymall for Beach(i"oml RwnI5. ~ll w<J(hfiwu IllQm$ /tom 5159 pu II/gild To book v!slr rlr~1W'r .... om. t+dlll·888-1J.NI'i41 or m!l Y;l!!f Tml'rl .PMf05Sillflal.

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Bahamas Beach Cottage FOR SALE: B e a utifu I fu Ily furnished baa ch cottage on secluded beach, vehicle included! Turn key, reduced to $640k (US) For photos and information, Email: rr€becca@gmail.com.

$80 Snorkel Adventure New Horizons

• 2 islands for snorkeling

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www.newhorizonsvi.com 800-808-7604

C'RUISES/YACHT CHARTERS BAJOR YACHT CHARTERS, INC. - Absolutely best vacation ever! Located in Virgin Islands, Personally designed yacht va cat lo ns sin c I' 1988, Powe r 0 r Sai l. 800- 524-8292 balor@vlaccess,n@t www.bajoryachts.com

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$995 to $1295. Tax & fees extra. lncludes all Meals and Activities. Fully Guided 9 days Mexico's Copper Canyon

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8 days Panama Cruise and Tour ~ CaD I-800-CARAVAN.

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TRAVEL ITEMS

TRAVEL SUPPLIES - save Big on Maney Belts,ID! Tkket Holders. Fanny Packs, Shoulder & Passport Wallets, Tilley Hats. Eye Shades, and Neck Pouches, Visit www,BeltOutlet.comCaUl-888-355-2358

VILLAS AND SMALL HOTELS:

MULTIPLE ISLANDS

Vi Ila,s and Resorts

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ANGUILLA

ANGUILLA -Rent this excluSive oceanfront private estate villa with two identical master bedroom alr-ronrlilion ed su i tes ,. rna id se rvl c e. pool. a II arne nit I es, spectacular day a nd night vi E'WS of 5 t. Ma rt i n, Reason able rates,

CaU 954-757-8882 Fax 954-757-8883

Web www.BaliHaiVilla.com

ANGUILLA - ARBRON VI L.LAS - (aribeUa Beach Resort - Masara 'R@sort,www.lambertventures,comCall 1-800-969"8002 or Email uslamberlventures@yahoo.com for free color brochure,

BEACHFRONT VIL.LA ~ With Pool. Private Tropical Settin g, 2 -5 air - cond itio ned bed roo ms, hou sekeepe r. gourmet Kitchen, spectacular views of 51. Martin, Web www.beachmapevilla.com(aI1508-233-1307

VILLA AZURE, SHOAL. BAY BEACH - Your Dream Realized! M edit err anea n ~st a r V ilia wi th every

a m e~ ity ove rloo king A ngu ilIa's best Beach, Over 9,.0 0 0', infinity pool. spa. sunsets. 3600 views, 1 to 5 bedrooms, private I 631-nJ-421l www.azurevilla.com

ANTIGUA

ANTIGUA VI.LL.AGE - Luxury beach front

con do min lu ms I n a tro p leal sett lng, toea ted next to Sandals on Antlgua's most popular beach, sleeplng z-B, swimming pool, daily maid service, water sports available, www,antiguavillage,net or Tel: 268-462 -2930

BAHAMAS

BAHAMAS, ELEUTHERA"KOKOMO" - Directly on a sec lu d ed pi n k san d beach, Fully eQui pped 3 bed roo m

2 bath home with huge decks, Great snorkeling. swimming,

4 kayaks, pool table, AC, TV, internet, telephone, $1,595- $2,395fWk, 1"800-454-2299 or 239-732-5112 www.kokomol.com

BELIZE

BEUZE PRIVATE ISLAND - Discover your own private island at (ayo Espanto where paradise and luxury come together as one, (ayo Espanto ls an intimate, five-star. World Class resort created for the discriminating few who demand the best Ufe has to offer, 1-888-666-4282 www.aprlvatel.sland.cominfo@aprlvateisland.com

BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS BVI - TORTOLA - PARADISE FOUND. Charming. airy vi II a, 2 B R!2 BA. pool. Spectacu lar view of Brewer's Bay, Short walk to baach/snorkellng (all 904-72 5-2832, www.bvivacationhouse.com

CAYMAN ISLANIDS

. ~,~~~o~~n~,'~! !e~,,:

Established since 1970

www.caymanvillas.com 1-800-235-5888

.e.::»

Un,q?\;' "nt;;;'~n~ ';e;;~ke

vacation planning services. www.elemerconcterqe.com 800.532.5345 or 345.623.8500

PARADISE VILLAS, LITTLE CAYMAN ~ Only 100% oceanfront Resort on Little Cayman, 12 oceanfront villas, dive operation, seaside dining at the Hungry Iguana, 1-877- 3(A YMAN, www.paradlsevillas.com

BEAUTIFUL CAYMAN BRAC OCEAN FRONT VILLA lor sale, Fully furnished Three Bedrooms - Two Bath - $299,000,.00 US, Visit www,mybeachfronthome, com Or email.mweinberg@weinberg-assoc:iates.com

.DOMINICAN REPUBLIC

Luxury 3-4BR villas,

Let yo u rse if be pampe red, 1-800-635-0991

www.sec-horse-rcnch.com

DOMINICAN REpUBUC PruVA1>E VILLAS 11'1 CABARETE

GRENADA / CARRIACOU CARRIACOU- SIMPL.EST OF THE

GR ENADIN ES. Peaceful vacation Villas, Down Island Ltd,lW/W,islandvillas,com Phone: (473) 443-8182

E-mail: islander@islandvillas.com

HAWAU

MAUl BEACHFRONT CONDOMINIUM - Breathtaking!!! Watch humpback whales from private lanai, Sleep to sounds of the surf fifteen steps away, Come listen! $129 per night. Owners: 1-800-742-7955, www.mauikondo.com

JAMAICA

www.iamaica.viUas.com

"The best source for mformanon on rental villas in.Jamaica is Villas bY,Lil1daSmi~L" -Cbnde Nasr Traoelerzooxzoos, z009&2.OlQ

(')tiimJ IHj Qill(/a (011{';;

.

......l '" A

301.229.4300 lind.i!@jam.a:iuvillas.wm

WHITEHOUSE, SOUTH COA.ST Beachfront3 br/3 bath VILLA Snorkeling, horseback ridlng. $800-$1900 per week, Includes staff. (908) 654- 8129! wbvilla@verizon,net

MONTSERRAT

VILLA "T.AN RY DOON" - Private oceanfront. Breathtaking views of coastline. mountains, lush tropical gerd ens, Sp ecta cu ler sun sets, 2 B R 12 BA. pool. maid, fully equipped. 802-442-9236, www,montserratrentaLwm

CARIBBEANTRAVE lMAGCO M

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RAY &LI E

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PUERTO RICO/CULE'BRAI VIEQUES

ST. BARTHELEMY

FRENCHCARI B.BEAN.COM· The premier resource fm private villa rentals a~d helpful isla~d lnfnrrnatlon, www.frenchcarlbbean.com

ST. MAARTEN I ST. MART:IN

~ Ieff Berger's New 2011 1;l EVERYTHINGSTMAARTEN.COM,

de livers the mosl CU rrelll, ~omp le.1e in fo all sh~pp i n9, henrhes, restaurants, sightseeing, hotels, villas, low· cost airfares, (Or. rentols, casinos, entertainment, cruises Imo more.

FRENCHCARI BBEAN.COM - The premier resource for private villa rentals and helpful Island information. www.frenchcaribbean.com

VIST AROYALE - Private pool. Breathtaking panoramic view. Gated community. Unlimited tree calls to U-S & Canada. More than 200 references. www.vistamyale.com 1-888-844-4149

CUPECOY BEACH - Luxury Pent'house at The Ocean CI uti Fu 11-0 n vi ews of th e Carl bbea n fro m 2 ba leo n ies in the sunroomldining mom. Additio~al details at VRBO.com1238969 or www.sxmpenthouse.com

UNITED STATES VIRGIN ISLANDS: ST. CROIX

Arrange your Villa with a company located on St. Croix'

Visit 0 ur website for details and specials!

'WI"', Va,ca ti Q n ~ te ro i X.CD m OCKIn ~D,I ranJll.com

toll-free 877-788-0361

ST_ CROIX, SHOYS BEACH - Lovely 3 bedroom

vi II a, La rge pool an d dec k, Gorgeous view. Steps from Swimming. Snorkeling. and Golf. From $1.600/week. 508-785-989 5 www.shoysparadisefou~d.com

ECO-ADVENTURE PACKAGES $999.00/couple: liayaking: Hiking: lndigenous Pottery Sernlnars, Active Learning Experiences. www.virginkaya.ktours.com

340 -718-00 71 Ex p lore St Croix wi th us!

ST. JOHN

Two to five bedroom fully equi pped vacation homes a nd villas, some with pools/spas, all with outstanding ocean views. From $ 2, 200 to $8,400 per week winter, $1,500 to $5,800 per week summer.

P.O. Box 644 • St.JOh. n. VI 00831 ~. .' .. _. .

toll free: 888- 6 25- 2963 ' .

340-776-6805 , -". -- - '.'

HILLCREST GUEST HOUSE, ST. JOHN, US VI RGIN ISLANDS Ocean views, menu and discoums.#157 Fnlghsd, www.HiilcrestStJoh~.com

Tel. Nos. 340 716-6774 & 340 998-8388

WESTI N VILLAS - Luxurious villas at a top resort. Convenient to town, National Park beaches. Includes all Westin amen I ties-maids, pools, beach, te nn is, sallboa ts, more. Fully eQu I pped kit ch ens. See deta lis at www.stjohnrewrtvillas.com 0 r contact us at 912-376-4131 or st-john-villa@earthlink.net

MA RCH 2011

ST. THOMAS

THE INN !£ VILLA OLGA

12 -rna m inn wilhin wa Iking dlsianeeet the duly·lree sh 0 pp i~g I ne harl 0 He A.ma lie. Ocean view rooms, nlGe pool, rasta u rants close by .

.;;..~ SL Thomas, us Virgin Islands 524-4746· www.viUa-ol.a-inn.com

ST. THOMAS VILLA - BREATHT.AKING

OC EANFRONT VI EWS Luxurious Mediterranean 5-Star villa with impeccable Momccan decor in exclusive Estate Peterborg overlooking Magen's Bay. 4BR, sleeps 2-8, infinity pool. wWw.VillaOnMagens.com or VillaOnMagens@ gmail.com or 914-498-0601

LISTING (20-word minimum) $955 per word for a onetime insertion DISPLAY $475 per inch with additional $150 flat rate for spot color for a one-time insertion COLUMN WIDTH 2 V 4 inches. Submit camera-ready velox 0 r Mac i ntcsh- fa rma tted discs 0 nl y. with all fonts en d pictu Fe files i nduded for dso lay ads.

CAI.LTO RESERVE YOUR SPACE:

Ami Colee WORK: 407-571-4712 FAX: 407-571-4713 ami,eolee@bonniercorp,com

Marketplace Ads are Pre-Paid. VISA, American Express and MasterCard accepted.

DEADLINE .FOR APRIL 2011 ISSUE SPACERESERVA TION: January 25. 2011 Changes or materials arriving after January 28, 2011 will run in the April 2011 issue of CARIBBEAN TRA VEL + LIFE.

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CARIBB _AN

TRAVEL.+LIFE

CARIBBEAN TRAVEL+LlFE 69

ITINERARY

Tanks for the Memories

Even a World War II tank can't diminish the beauty of Culebra's

Flamenco Beach. Discover this and several other unforgettable spots on our quest to find Vieques and Culebra's ultimate strand.

-

'.

Also In the A rllissue:

The Jamaica you've never seen + 2011's hottest all-inclusive resorts

The Bahamas on a budget + Cruising St, John, USVI + What's new on Grenada

P~I NTED IN T~ E U5~ Vol""" 16, lssue 2. Can boo"o Tral'l'1 • l.Ife (ISSN 1052·1011. USf>S 005·l82) I, publi,~ed oine time> a \'N' - J""""oy!februaIY. Ma~~. Ap,ll, Mal. Jun.!Julv, AugUlSVS,pt,mber. OctJlOOI. November, Ueoember -I>Y Bono",r com, PO 80:( 8500. WifLterPark, R 32790; 401-628-4802. Enthe contents copyrighot 20n b~ Bonnier Corp. May not be reproduced in allY form wlthout the expressed. wrttten permsston af Bonner Corp. Perindkals oostege paid at Wi.nter Park. Plonde. and at additional mam ns crnces SU 8SCRI PTION 5: One·yea< >tJb><riptioo I, ~13.95, and two"~,ar ~ $36,95, Fo"ub5,nptlll ns, ad"',,, ,hiill8",od .dj"'M"n1.~ wilte to [o,lbb .. n Trav,1 , Life, PO 80' 4202:35, Pal m toest, Fl 32142·0235, POSTMI..STER:

Send odd,",' ,h,ng" to Canbb ea n T,,,,,,[. lifo. PO Box 420135, Palm rcest. Fl3214:H235. PUBliCATiON MAil AGREEMENT NUM8ER 4D61,<>P8 CANAOA POST HETlJRNS: PITN~Y BOWES, PO sox 15542. lONDON, ON N6[DSI. C ... NA(I.A

90 CARIBBEAN TRAVEL+LIFE

CAR I 8BEANTRAVELM AG,COM

Be one with the awakening of your senses.

As one of the last unspoiled places on earth, you'll feel an intimate connection to life-changing experiences in Belize.

Be one with the rainforest, the Hemisphere's largest barrier reef and the mystical Maya world.

Call 800-624-0686 or visit TravelBelize.org

RADISSON FORT GEORGE HOTEL & MARINA

The Stylish Fort George Hotel features 102 rooms, tWO restaurants and bars, two peels.jacuzzi, Fitness Center, Business Center, free WI FI and a full service marina. Our Concierge Desk offers tours in land and on the seas.

An adventure in paradise awaits you at the Radisson!

Phone: 800·333·3333 or 501-223-3333 E-mail: amin.dredge@radisson.com www.radisson.com/belizedtybz

EXOTIC CAYE BEACH RESORT

Your relaxation destination when in Belize. Our one or two bedroom suites are equipped with kitchen, living and dining areas, cable TV and wireless internet.AII are baachfront "and complete with balconies. Swimming pool. Cafe.

Beach Bar .. Restaurant. PADI Dive Centre.

Fitness center.Tennis courts. (501) 22.6·2870 • www.exoticcaye.com info@exoticcaye.com

ROATAN CHARTER

Specialists in the overlooked islands of the Western Caribbean since 198,1. Let our Belize travel specialists design the vacation that is right for you. Free tour catalog features scuba diving, jungle lodges, rafting, cave tubing, fishing, Mayan ruins and more. Lowest airfares, group incentives, travel agents welcome, Phone: 800-282-8932 info@roatan.com· www.l.Oatan.com

MAYAN PRINCESS HOTEL

Ambergris Caye . Beautiful oceanfront su ires in the center of San Pedro with AlC, cable Tv, and verandas. Every room is a room with a view at the Mayan Princess. friendly staff will arrange diving, snorkeling, fishing or mainland tours. I

Packages available.

Phone: 800-850410 I Fax: 0 II-50 1-226~2 784 E-mail: mayanprin@btl.net www.mayanprincesshotel.com

SUNBREEZE HOTEL

Centrally located in the town of Ambergris Caye yet out of the hustle and

bustle. 43 partial ocean and garden view rooms, Restaurant and Bar,Massage Studio and Art Gallery, Dive shop. Mention this Ad for US$I 00 p.p. off. Scuba, Adventure and Honeymoon Packages.

Call Toll Free: 800-688·0191 Fax: 0 II. -501-226-2346 E.mail: Sunbreeze@btl.net www.sunbreeze.net