“EFFECT OF STICH DENSITY ON

SEAM PERFORMANCE OF DENIM

MEN’S WARE SUITING FABRIC”
 PROJECT DEVELOPERS

PROJECT GUIDE: Ms. PAVITRA SHYAM

GROUP MEMBERS:
• SUHEF MOMIN : 06DTMX38
• AMIT MAGDUM : 06DTMX32
• VINAYAK KAMBLE : 06DTMX26
• RAMDAS KAMATE : 06DTMX25
• AMIR MUJAWAR : 06DTMX40
 PROJECT GOAL

Ultimate goal of project is to achieve

optimum stitch density for the selected
following types of seams by varying the
three different stitch density
 LITERATURE REVIEW
• Man made textile in India (Jan 09)
-Dr.Nemailal Tarafder, Rajib Karmarkar& Mithun Mondal.
• Stitches & Seams
-Laing. R.M.
• A.S.T.M. Standerds
-Dorkin & Chamberlain.
Sample Size: 300mm x 50mm
 EXPERIMENTAL PROCEDURE
PURCHASE THE FABRIC

PHYSICAL TESTING OF FABRIC

SELECTING SEAMS & STITCH TYPE

PREPARE THE SAMPLES BY VARYING THE

DIFFERENT STITCH DENSITY FOR DIFF. SEAMS

PERFORMING TESTING OF PREPARED SAMPLES

TAKING THE RESULT FROM TESTING

SELECTING THE OPTIMUM STITCH DENSITY FOR THE

SEAM
 FABRIC PARTICULARS

PERTICULARS LYCRA DENIM NORMAL DENIM

EPI 75 95
PPI 50 48
WARP Ne 8 10
WEFT Ne 15 20
GSM 360 320
 PHYSICAL TESTING OF FABRIC

LYCRA NORMAL
PHYSICAL TESTS WARP WEFT WARP WEFT
CRIMP (%) 20 28 13 19
BENDING LENGTH ( cm) 2.7 3.7 3.1 3.3
CREASE RECOVERY (o) 65 130 46 99
FABRIC STRENGTH (kgf) 127.89 73.45 87.45 42.33
FABRIC EXTENSION 70.28 106.44 39.61 46.00
(mm)
INSTRUMENT USED FOR TESTING

• CRIMP (%) : Crimp Tester

• BENDING LENGTH ( cm) : Stiffness Tester
• CREASE RECOVERY : Crease Recovery Tester
• WARP/WEFT COUNT (Ne) : Weight Balance
• FABRIC & SEAM STRENGTH (kgf) : Instron (6556)
 SEAM:
In sewing, a seam is the line where two
or more layers of fabric are held
together by stitching. there are various
types of seams for e.g..

1) Superimposed Seam (SS)

2) Lapped Seam (LS)
3) Flat Seam (FS)
4) Bound Seams (BS)
 SELECTION OF SEAM
For This Project We Had Selected First Two
Seams As These Seams Are Mostly Used In
Denim
• 1) Superimposed Seam (SS):1.1) SSa.
• 2) Lapped Seam (LS) 2.1) LSb.
2.2) LSc.
 SUPERIMPOSED SEAM (SS)
• The superimposed seam is
achieved by two or more
separate pieces of together. SSa
This is the one of the most
recognized methods of
seaming. The most basic
superimposed seam is the
SSa. One ply of fabric
stacked upon another with
thread stitching through all
plies of fabric. SSa is used for
in-seam in garment.
 LAPPED SEAM (LS)
• This class of seaming has the largest
number of variations. A lapped seam is
achieved with two or more pieces of
fabric overlapping each other. LS
commonly, but not always, have one ply
of fabric fold under itself for a finished
edge.
 USE OF LAPPED SEAM
• Lapped seams are common when
working with leather and sewing over
lay yokes seams on jeans.
LSb

LSb: Attaching overlay

Yoke’s & patch pockets

LSc

LSc: In-seam in Jeans

 STITCH
In sewing, the configuration of the interlacing
of sewing thread in a specific repeated unit.

• Lock Stitch
• Over Edge stitch
• Chain stitch
 LOCK STITCH
• The lockstitch uses two threads, an upper
and a lower. The upper thread runs from a
spool kept on a spindle on top of or next to
the machine, through a tension mechanism, a
take-up arm, and finally through the hole in
the needle. We are uses 3 different stitch
density

STITCH DENSITY: 1) 2.5

2) 3.0
3) 3.5
 SEAM TESTING
SUPER IMPOSED SEAM

Seam Allowance both edge: 1cm

Grip : 5 cm
Grip : 5 cm

Distance between 2 jaws : 20 cm

 SEAM TESTING
LAPPED SEAM

Seam Allowance both edge: 2cm

Grip : 5 cm
Grip : 5 cm

Distance between 2 jaws : 20 cm

RESULTS OF SEAM TESTING
NORMAL DENIM :
WARP WAY WEFT WAY
Seam Stitch Extension Load Extension
Load (kgf)
Type Density (mm) (kgf) (mm)
2.5 52.59 37.87 35.07 35.3
SSa 3.0 53.58 37.28 45.78 41.82
3.5 55.9 37.36 46.71 42.91
2.5 48.1 36.69 55.43 50.52
LSb 3.0 50.85 36.34 47.77 43.17
3.5 50.43 36.72 45.36 44.66
2.5 63.4 36.0 71.38 55.41
LSc 3.0 65.69 36.04 59.63 49.91
3.5 70.29 36.99 70.42 51.96
RESULTS OF SEAM TESTING
LYCRA
DENIMWARP
: WAY WEFT WAY
Seam Stitch Load (kgf) Extension Load (kgf) Extensio
Type Density (mm) n (mm)
67.59 70.47 46.70 83.73
SSa 2.5
67.16 74.45 48.88 84.35
3.0
67.17 71.23 46.28 88.08
3.5
58.32 68.13 53.83 86.71
LSb 2.5
60.68 69.92 42.64 87.14
3.0
64.99 70.38 47.90 86.76
3.5
91.59 68.58 67.77 95.47
LSc 2.5
88.69 70.11 72.56 97.33
3.0
95.61 73.29 68.25 94.07
3.5
 CONCLUSION
• FOR LYCRA-DENIM FABRIC.
1.SSA (warp):- 2.5
2.SSA (weft) :- 3.0
3.LSB (warp) :- 3.5
4.LSB (weft) :- 2.5
5.LSC (warp) :- 3.5
6.LSC (weft) :- 3.0
 CONCLUSION
FOR NORMAL DENIM FABRIC
1. SSA (warp):-3.5
2. SSA (weft) :-3.5
3. LSB (warp) :-3.0
4. LSB (weft) :-3.0
5. LSC (warp) :- 3.5
6. LSC (weft) :-2.5
 REFERENCE
• 1) Morris, P. A. and Brain, D. H., Seam Slippage,
Clothing Res. J. 3, 135-144 (1975)
• 2) Shimazaki, K. and Lloyd, D. W., Opening Behavior of
Lockstitch Seams in Woven Fabrics Under Cyclic
Loading Conditions, Textile Res. J. 60, 654-662 (1990)
• 3) Annual Book of ASTM Standards, ASTM D 6193-97:
Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams, pp. 909-
1049; ASTM D 1682-64: Breaking Load and Elongation
of Textile Fabrics, pp. 347-354; ASTM D 1683-81:
Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics, pp. 355-361;
American Society for Textile and Materials, Easton, PA,
1985
• 4) International Journal of Clothing Science and
Technology, Volume 17, Numbers 3-4, March 2005, pp.
225-231
• 5) www.fibre2fashion.com
• 6) www.thedenimloft.com
• 7) www.fashion-era.com
• 8) www.amefird.com
 THANK YOU
• Thank you one and all for your kind
support and attention for our
presentations.

• We thank you for your valuable time.

• We also thank our professors for their

valuable guidance throughout