PURL KNITTED STRUCTURES

BY-
SWATI SUMAN
B.F.Tech-4
Roll-19
WHAT ARE PURL KNITS ?
 Purl was originally spelt
“pearl” and was so named
because of its similar
appearance to pearl.

 Purl is the only structure having

certain wales containing both
face and reverse meshed
loops.A garment-length
sequence, such as a ribbed half-
hose, is defined as purl,
whereas smaller sections of its
length may consist of plain and
rib sections.
 
 This stitch is also known as
the links/links stitch. It is
made on flatbed and circular
machines by needles using
hooks on both ends. The
hooks alternately draw
loops to the front of the
fabric in one course, and to
the back in the next course.
It is a slow and costly
technique. Purl-stitched
fabric looks the same on
both sides and resembles the
reverse of the plain knit.
PRODUCTION OF PURL KNITS
 Originally, purl knit
production required
special equipment using
double-ended latch
needles.
 The needle bed of these
machines are set on the
same plane instead of
being in an inverted “V”
formation
PURL FABRIC STRUCTURE
PURL NEEDLE TRANSFER ACTION
 PURL NEEDLE TRANSFER ACTION
1 Engagement of the head of the receiving slider with the
needle hook that was originally knitting from the opposing
bed.
2 Cam action causing the head of the delivering slider to
pivot outwards from the trick and thus disengage itself
from the other hook of the needle.
3 Sufficient free space to allow the heads of the sliders to
pivot outwards from their tricks during engagement and
disengagement of the needles.
4 A positive action which maintains the engagement of the
head of a slider with a needle hook throughout its knitting
cycle by ensuring that it is pressed down into the trick.
 PURL KNITTING MACHINE
In the past, purl structures were knitted only on flat bed
and double cylinder purl machines employing double-
ended latch needles. Electronically-controlled
V-bed flat machines with rib loop transfer and racking
facilities are now used.
There are two types of purl
needle bed machine
(i) Flat Bed Purls, which have
two horizontally opposed
needle beds

(ii) Circular Purls (Double

Cylinder Machines),
which have two
superimposed cylinders one
above the other.
Both types of machines
generally produce garment
lengths.
Flat bed purls are no longer built because electronically-
controlled V-bed flat machines can now knit types of
links-links designs.
Small diameter (6 inch/15cm or less) double cylinder
machines are used to knit broad rib socks, whereas larger
diameter machines produce knitwear.
 PROPERTIES

 Produced on links and links machines

 Slowest of the knitting machines
 More expensive
 Good stretch in all direction

 Stretches out of shape easily

 Crosswise stretch less than a jersey knit

 Thicker than jersey knits

 Does not curl

 TYPES OF PURL KNITS
1. The simplest purl is 1 X 1 purl, which is the garter stitch. It
consists of alternate courses of all face and all reverse loops
and is produced by the needles knitting in one bed and then
transferring over to the other bed to knit the next course. Its
lateral stretch is equal to plain, but its length-wise elasticity is
almost double.
In the USA, 1 X 1 purl is sometimes made up at right angles
to the knitting sequence and is then termed ‘Alpaca stitch’.
2. Another simple purl is moss stitch, which consists of face
and reverse loops in alternate courses and wales.
3. Basket purls consist of rectangular areas of all X or all O
loops, which alternate with each other.
Examples include 5 X 3, 7 X 3, 4 X 4
 1X1 PURL STRUCTURE
English Notation Needle Notation
 2X2 PURL STRUCTURE
English Notation Needle Notation
 KNITTING VS. PURLING
Purling is almost the same as knitting stitch. It almost produces
the same style or end result but these two types of stitches differ
in some aspects.

1. A stitch made by purling is like a raised loop while if it is done

by knitting it will appear as a flat half V.
2. Purling is usually used to make the non-visible surface of
clothing while knitting is generally done for the visible clothing
surfaces.
3. Purling is done by driving the needle down and then in front of
the stitch while knitting is done by driving the needle inside up
then behind the stitch.
 END USES

 Infant and children’s wear

 Sweaters

 scarves
 REFERENCES
 Books:-
 Knitting Technology-David J.Spencer

 Flat Knitting Technology- Dr.S Raz

 Fundamentals of Weft Knitting- George A. Tay

 Websites:-

 www.google.co.in

 www.wikipedia.com

 www.knitepedia.co.uk

 http://sourcing.indiamart.com/apparel/knitted-garments-
information/types-of-knitting/
 http://www.differencebetween.net/miscellaneous/difference-
between-knitting-and-purling/
THANK YOU…!!!