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How to Weld - TIG Welding

by stasterisk on July 3, 2007

Table of Contents

License: Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike (by-nc-sa) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Intro: How to Weld - TIG Welding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

step 1: Choose the Electrode . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

step 2: Grind the Electrode . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

step 3: Insert the Electrode Into Its Collet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

step 4: Choose the Settings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

step 5: Turn on the Gas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

step 6: Prepare Metal and Welding Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

step 7: Get Dressed Up! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

step 8: One Last Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

step 9: Weld! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

step 10: Draw a Bead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

step 11: Types of Welds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/
License: Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike (by-nc-sa)

Intro: How to Weld - TIG Welding

TIG Welding is one type of welding amongst a few choices you have - MIG, Stick, Oxyacetylene, etc.

TIG can be used to weld copper, titanium, even two dissimilar metals, and is handy for making tricky welds (e.g. s-curves, or welds on round things)..

TIG generates heat via an arc of electricity jumping from a (tungsten metal) electrode to the metal surfaces you intend to weld - usually aluminum or steel.

TIG stands for Tungsten Inert Gas, after the tungsten electrode, and the sheath of inert gas (argon or an argon mixture) surrounding it.

Big thanks to Mose O'Griffin, who narrated, taught, and demonstrated.

Also, If you're interested in MIG welding, see this instructable:

step 1: Choose the Electrode

Your TIG is likely to have the right electrode in it already.

For aluminum, the best choice is a pure tungsten rod.

You can alternately choose from any number of tungsten alloys (including thoriated tungsten - which is radioactive!) which are uniquely suited to welding particular alloys
of metal.

For reference, this example uses the specific alloy 6061 Aluminum (the "steak and potatoes" or "normal" type of aluminum)

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/
step 2: Grind the Electrode
Grind the tungsten rod to a point.

Do this, especially if the rod is a brand-new cylinder and doesn't have a pointed or rounded tip yet.

The tip will become rounded due to heat as you weld.

Lincoln recommends a balled tip for AC welding, and a pointed tip for DC welding.

The pointed tip will give a smaller, more directed arc. The arc will tend to dance around, when from a rounded tip.

step 3: Insert the Electrode Into Its Collet

Unscrew the back of the electrode holder, insert the rod, replace back.

The tip of the electrode should be about 1/4" away from the protective sheath, but not much more.

Skip this if you already have your electrode ready.

Shown below are two different types of electrode holders.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/
 Image Notes
1. "Gas Lens" electrode gun - purportedly creates nicer gas flow over your work
2. standard electrode gun

step 4: Choose the Settings

The typical TIG rig will have three main electricity options - AC, DCEP, and DCEN.

AC is for aluminum - choose "AC".

Set the "Cleaning/Penetrating" setting to the more "Penetrating" side - around 7 on a scale from 1 to 10.

Set the "Air on" to about 5 seconds, if you have the option to do so.
This is the amount of time the gas stays on after the arc stops, to keep your weld from oxidizing/rusting.

Set the "Max Amps" pretty high - perhaps around 250.

For specific settings, check out Miller's settings calculator.

For the curious:

Cleaning/Penetrating is a modification to the positive/negative ratio of the AC that changes the depth of your weld (cleaning is more shallow).

DCEP means "DC, Electrode Postive". This setting is used for balling the tungsten tip, or stick welding.

DCEN means "DC, Electrode Negative", and is for welding steel.

The difference between the two DC settings is the direction the electricity flows - to the metal from the electrode, or to the electrode from the metal. This makes a big
difference in the amount of heat the metal absorbs, and the width and depth of the weld.

Image Notes
1. High quality welder settings - sets the pulse to high frequency for welding aluminum.
2. High quality welder settings - sends an initial high frequency pulse to start the weld pool, when welding steel.
3. AC - Aluminum
4. DCEN - Steel setting
5. DC, Electrode Positive
6. Air post-flow time

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/
 7. Amperage - the current setting
8. Cleaning/Penetrating

step 5: Turn on the Gas

For aluminum, use pure argon.

For steel, you would use an argon/carbon dioxide mixture.

The gas is important to keep the weld from becoming corroded, as metal will rust (or in the case of aluminum, oxidize) ridiculously quickly at the high temperatures the
metal reaches.

step 6: Prepare Metal and Welding Table

Some kind of large metallic area is necessary to let electricity flow through your metal. We're using a welding table, purchased for the purpose. Otherwise, a large piece
of sheet metal will do perfectly well (just make sure it's flat).

Beauty Tip: Use a wire brush to scrub the surfaces of the metal. It's good practice to keep a dedicated aluminum brush (separate from what you use to clean steel). If you
want really nice-looking welds, you can also wipe down the welding rods with acetone.

If you don't care about the way the welds look when finished, don't bother and you'll be fine. However, your welds will be a little weaker and not as pretty.

Clamp your metals so they'll stay where you want them when you weld.

And, if you have the stuff, spray down your welding table with anti-spatter (so if any metal leaks off, it doesn't stick where it lands, which is important if you're trying to
keep your surface flat).

Image Notes Image Notes

1. Make a good ground clamp contact on the metal weld table 1. Anti-spatter spray
2. pieces of aluminum to weld
3. welding rod
4. welding helmets
5. welding table

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/
 Image Notes Image Notes
1. Tip: Use dedicated aluminum brush to prevent specks of other metals from 1. notice the difference between brushed and oxidized aluminum.
contaminating the final product.

step 7: Get Dressed Up!

TIG will give you sunburns. TIG will make you see stars (or go blind). TIG will burn your hands.

Use thick leather welding gloves, and a welding helmet, and closed-toe shoes.

To avoid sunburn, wear a long-sleeved shirt or jacket, or a welding coat.

Clean your helmet - the better you can see what you're doing, the better you can weld.

Some people like auto-darkening welding helmets. Others don't like relying on the device's reaction time - you have to invest a lot, to get a good-quality, fast one.

We're using always-dark helmets.

You might use a bright flashlight, if you want to see what you are doing without lifting your helmet.

Image Notes Image Notes

1. leather welding jacket 1. jacket, gloves
2. welding mask

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/
 Image Notes
1. disclaimer!

step 8: One Last Check

Hold the electrode in your dominant hand. Make sure it can move freely (untangled, unhampered cord).

Image Notes
1. Plenty of freedom to move with extra cable

step 9: Weld!
Hold the electrode about an inch away from the metal. Never touch the metal with the electrode. If you do, molten aluminum will leap onto the electrode. If this happens,
stop, turn off the welder, remove the tungsten rod, and grind it down.

Jam down on the foot-pedal to quickly dump a bunch of current and heat into the metal.

The idea is to very quickly heat the metal and start the weld pool. You'll know it when you see it - the metal becomes fluid.

Start on an edge.

When the pool has formed, touch the rod in.

If you heat the metal for too long, it will warp. The longer the metal is heated, the more it will warp.

This is a "tack" weld, to hold the metal piece in place, so you can take off the clamps and do big long bead welds.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/
Once you have a weld pool started, you can ease off the pedal a little, to control the amount of heat and current being applied to the metal.

Welds shrink as they cool, so you can alternate sides to keep the welds even, and to keep one side of metal from getting too hot and warping. Hot metal can warp a great
deal, and if you don't change sides, you might find yourself even 1/4" off of where the metal ought to be.

Image Notes Image Notes

1. foot pedal 1. hand pedal - alternative arc regulation to the foot pedal.

Image Notes
1. This means you've used too much current, or have a lead foot.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/
step 10: Draw a Bead
After tacking, remove any clamps.

Start a weld pool by jamming down the pedal fast to form a weld pool.

Then lighten up on the pedal, to regulate the current.

If the metal starts to burn/melt away, too much current is being dumped in, back off the foot pedal.
If the metal gets a flaky, but not liquid look to it, put more power in (step on the pedal harder).

To weld aluminum, move the electrode towards the rod, while feeding rod into the pool. The rod should be to the side of the electrode that the weld will form or grow
towards. This is known as "leading" the electrode.

To weld steel, the electrode travels first down the weld line, and the rod chases after, "following" the heat.

step 11: Types of Welds

Getting the knack of TIG welding is mostly in getting the weld pool to form, at the same time, on both pieces of metal.

The easiest type of weld is the "fillet", two metals jointed at right angles. (The one shown in this instructable).

The next is the "lap" weld, which is two metals resting flat against each other.

Trickier is the "butt" weld, where two metals touch along the edges - it is difficult to keep the electrode traveling in a straight line along the joint, and tough to keep the
weld pool going well on both.

Corners require some skill, as the heat is not dissipated evenly.

You can create "cosmetic" or "strength" welds.

Cosmetic welds tend to look more even over long lengths. Create them by making a weld pool, dipping in the rod, and then moving to the next point. Use them on highly
visible joints, like on bicycles.

Strength welds are a lot stronger - use them for things that aren't designed to be seen, or are designed for strength rather than beauty. Anything that needs to bear a load
(e.g., a gas cannister or propane tank) will have a strength weld. These are the welds where you simply draw the weld pool along continuously, while constantly feeding
rod in.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/
 Image Notes
1. Cosmetic weld
2. Strength weld

Related Instructables

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for Punks by Rose from Document Kinetic Third,
TimAnderson Scrap Metal by How to weld a Sculpture by fourth, and
Shredder by
jaredzeuli barbecue. by bloomautomatic possibly fifth,
Kiteman TimAnderson
hand by
schip666

Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 128 comments

Lucas011986 says: Jan 8, 2011. 7:54 AM REPLY

Gwark, no need to be nervous grinding tungsten... just make sure you have water near by... you're more likely to burn your fingers than lose the tungsten...
And yes, the method of grinding in the video is wrong, and VERY unsafe. Its pretty hard to tig weld if the tungsten catches on the wheel and spears your
hand!

Always point the tungsten up. You can also hold the tungsten horizontal to the wheel to speed up grinding, but you MUST finish in the vertical position. Like
you said, horizontal lines on a tungsten with play with the current flow.

piniongear says: Aug 6, 2009. 5:18 PM REPLY

Going back to the beginning of this......... Huh? I did not think you could Tig weld with a mixed gas, i.e., CO2 and argon, as you would use for Mig? Helium
and argon yeah, or straight argon, but not with CO2 in there? pg

jack8559 says: Dec 5, 2010. 6:19 PM REPLY

It all depends on the material that you are welding as to which gas mixture to use. Pure argon is for aluminum if you want good results.

LetsExplodeSomething says: May 1, 2010. 6:58 PM REPLY

no straight argon is the choice of nearly every tig welder i know

Obertass says: Nov 26, 2010. 12:15 PM REPLY

Are you wearing welding mits when you actually weld?

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/
 gwark says: Nov 12, 2010. 10:34 PM REPLY
I am new to TIG, but I saw a vid on sharpening the tungsten and they had the tip pointing UP, towards the grinder.
now, I am always a little scared of the tip catching on the wheel, and the rod flying out of my hands, but that hasnt happened yet. thank god.

point the rod up, towards the rotating wheel coming towards you.
that way, the rod is ground in the right direction ... something to do with current flow ;)

Mig Welder says: Jul 27, 2010. 6:52 AM REPLY

You don't necessarily have to invest a lot for a good fast AD helmet. I got mine for around $45 and it's great. It has infinite shade adjustment (9-14(or 13?)).
You can also change the sensitivity so it doesn't turn on when you look at lights. Finally, you can also change the reaction time (in milliseconds I think) which
is nice. . .

Ragnarok-zero says: Sep 17, 2010. 6:02 PM REPLY

good auto dark tig helmets cost more than mig/mag/mma ones, most cheap helmets won't go to below 20amps many tigs do 5amps a lot of older ones
do 10amps mine goes to 3 amps, not many if any cheap masks are suitable for the whole range of a tig welders amps, even a lot of more expensive
ones will only go down to 5amp.

1450 says: Sep 30, 2010. 5:50 PM REPLY

i have the flip type for stick welding at home ( its fitted with a shade 11) and my welder is a 70 amp cheap is the shade enough i dont know btw is
there gasless tig like gasless mig

Mig Welder says: Sep 17, 2010. 8:23 PM REPLY

Is the arc really that incredibly bright at such low amperage?

Ragnarok-zero says: Sep 18, 2010. 12:59 PM REPLY

no the oposite, it's that it's not very bright compared to higher amps the mask doesn't detect the arc and so the mask stays in the light mode does
not darken to the proper welding shade, you will see a spec called "minimum tig detection" on some helmets, so for low amps you need one that
detects low amps, and they cost a lot more than masks with a higher minimum amp detection that work fine with mig and arc but not the bottom
of tig.

Ragnarok-zero says: Sep 17, 2010. 6:11 PM REPLY

those gloves must be imposable to feed the filler accurately in, get some proper thin tig gloves you don't need those huge things for tig.

iMakeItHappen says: Jun 19, 2010. 1:04 PM REPLY

is it possible to TIG weld w/o the gas? because i know in MIG welding you can use a flux core, and i wanted to know if the same applied here....

Ragnarok-zero says: Sep 17, 2010. 5:53 PM REPLY

you need pure argon or argon helium mix to tig weld the tungsten needs shielding as well as the weld pool.

snowluck2345 says: Jul 15, 2010. 6:01 PM REPLY

I've been wondering this too, but I dont think you can because the tungsten electrode needs a shielding gas to prevent it from being contaminated, and
thre wouldn't be enogh shielding without gas.

jack8559 says: Dec 5, 2010. 6:16 PM REPLY

You are absoluutely correct, you must have a shielding media (gas in this case) for any welding.... Arc welding uses the flux on the rod. The
exception goes to oxy-acetylene welding which many people call brazing, but a powdered flux is certainly an advantage then but not absolutely
required to do the job.

M4industries says: Jun 24, 2010. 7:17 PM REPLY

Is that Tim? Or someone else at Instructables.

paranoid56 says: Jul 30, 2007. 5:06 PM REPLY

This is wrong, you should never grind the tip that way. you should always grind with the tip up so you dont contaminate the tip. (just flip it from what hes
doing) just thought you should know :D

memainman4 says: Jun 21, 2010. 6:58 PM REPLY

Not with tungsten. the sparks actually fly onto your hand and are 'abosorbed' i guess by the skin. poisoning you. you could wear a glove but as im sure
everybody knows, wearing a glove while using a bench grinder isnt the smartest thing to do.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/
 woodpecker says: Sep 21, 2007. 4:16 PM REPLY
grinding on the top of the wheel is riskier. sparks fly into your face, and if the material catches - it flies into your face.

pfred2 says: Jun 29, 2009. 9:00 PM REPLY

Turn the grinder around so the sparks fly away. I have a dedicated grinder for sharpening my tungstens so they don't get contaminated.

skaar says: Jun 13, 2009. 7:50 AM REPLY

when i'd do points on things, i'd swap out the rest for something slimmer, and the rods would point almost vertical, solves the problems you address i
think.

TBC06 says: Jan 20, 2010. 3:11 PM REPLY

agreed as well, use the top of the wheel and have your 1-3 slope for the tip (about 20 degrees on a 1/8 electrode) and only use the stone for
tungsten only so it does not pick up contaminants, or better yet use a diamond stone on a tungsten sharpener :)

w0ot! says: Feb 8, 2010. 8:38 PM REPLY

Couldn't one turn the rod horizontally (perpendicular to the wheel) and spin it against the stone?

LetsExplodeSomething says: May 1, 2010. 6:52 PM REPLY

no then you create a grain in the rod going against the flow of the arc

windhook says: Mar 12, 2009. 4:40 PM REPLY

Maybe the best advice to ANYONE would be to take a class, learn from a professional welding instructor. There is some good, correct information in this
forum and unfortunately a lot of incorrect misinformation. If Welding was so simple, so easy to learn, your Mother would be a professional welder, as well as
everyone else on your street. There are some skills that are easy to master, but many trade procedures take time,training and practice to become proficient
at. I'm a Journeyman Weldor and a Welding Instructor, with just under 40 years experience. Today, at a trade show, it was a blast to learn some new tricks
and to learn from technicians that really know their equipment inside out. Start with your local Community College, you'll learn more and faster too.

jonwwelding says: Apr 6, 2010. 1:48 PM REPLY

I completely agree with windhook. Welding is not only complicated, but it can also be dangerous. It is best to learn the proper techniques before entering
this industry. I went to Tulsa Welding School in Jacksonville and have had a successful career so far. Here's more info: www.weldingschool.com. Good
luck!

w0ot! says: Feb 8, 2010. 8:40 PM REPLY

Are there any smaller holders available?

jack8559 says: Feb 7, 2010. 7:43 PM REPLY

I was taught to "push the puddle" towards the rod when welding steel OR aluminum. I'm not saying your way is wrong, it's just how I was taught.

holland67 says: Dec 11, 2009. 6:23 PM REPLY

some one tell me what is2.3.4g welding positins are

mstar says: Feb 7, 2010. 3:28 PM REPLY

A 2g welding position is one where the groove of the weld joint is horizontal in relation to the welder; 3g would be vertical and 4g would be overhead and
is the exact opposite of 1g which is flat. 5g is the normal testing angle for high pressure pipe. A 5g position is where the groove of the weld is
maintained at a 45 degree angle. NAVSHIPS structural certification tests are normally given in 2g, 3g, and 4g positions whereas AWS structural
certification tests are usually given in in 3g and 4g positions. The "g" signifies "groove" and an "f" would be for a fillet weld.

CHEVY6998 says: Jan 2, 2008. 10:01 AM REPLY

While pure Tungsten is a good choice and has been for many years, 2% ceriated is a better choice. 2% Thoriated Tungsten is the prime choice for steel
alloys, and yes while Thorium is considered "radioactive" and does have a relatively long half life you exposure through weld use is negligible. A most recent
study tested over 1200 career welders, all of which used EWTH-2 tungsten primarily and only one person had a carcinegenic illness, which was found to be
hereditary.

mstar says: Nov 17, 2009. 10:46 AM REPLY

I'm surprised this thread is still going but since it is I should add that what I originally wrote was not merely based on my own experience. Studies done
by the American Welding Society have established that 2% thoriated tungsten is the prefered choice for all welds where quality is the primary concern.
Furthermore, I remember reading somewhere that pure tungsten should only be used when quality is not an issue. My personal preference is to do the
job in the best possible manner which is why I have always stuck with 2%. If you have the time and the inclination to explore the difference between the
ball end and the blunt end you can easily see for yourself with a 1/16" section of each type tungsten. Estabish an arc on a scrap of aluminum at eye
level so you can see what happens clearly. With the machine on AC the ball eventually begins to grow larger, it starts to wobble and gyrate around the
end of the tungsten and eventually it will detach itself and fly across the arc into the weld puddle. The resistence to the flow of electricity is greater at the
top of the ball than it is in the tungten rod above it. That resistance erodes the tungsten above the ball (which is why it grows larger) and when it gets to
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Weld-TIG/
 the point that it is too thin to support the ball the end flys off and your weld is contaminated. A blunted point will eventually turn into a balled point and
do the same thing when you are running AC, but with 2% it takes longer for the end to go bad so you can get more good quality welding done before you
have to stop and change electrodes or head back to the grinder so you can re-shape the thing.
Producing good quality welds is not that difficult but you have to know what you are looking at while you are welding. Playing around with scrap pieces at
eye level allows you to see what is going on with the electrode and the weld puddle and it is something that I would encourage anyone to do if they are
just starting out. The books cover the basics but the knowledge necessary to perform at a higher level can't be found in a book. Vitually anyone can
stick two pieces of metal together with a welding machine but to do it right is an art and that requires practice and talent.

sephirothx666 says: Feb 7, 2010. 9:45 AM REPLY

It's always nice to read these kinds of things once in a while to gain so knowledge. I agree with the very last section 100%. I was in a welding class
last year and everyone could finish the projects but very few could finish without holes or impurities. Even if i don't go into welding as a career i would
still weld.

mstar says: Feb 7, 2010. 3:16 PM REPLY

Once you acquire the basic knowledge regarding how to operate the equipment safely and the procedure for making an effective weld, the rest is
merely a matter of practice, the proper attitude and talent. Welding is a skill of artistic expression and it is very similar to learning to play a guitar
or learning how to draw. Not everyone who plays a guitar can play well, and few can play good enough to make a living at it, but everyone can
learn a chord or two and make noise.

BreeBait says: Nov 16, 2009. 11:24 PM REPLY

they still stick you with the hazardous material fee, at least in California. I noticed that on my reciept the other day.

mstar says: Dec 31, 2008. 1:58 PM REPLY

Got to agree with CHEVY6998 on using 2% thoriated tungsten for everything including aluminum. With more than 30 years experience in all phases of
welding I have found that the only good thing that pure tungsten electrodes are good for is making scribers. For aluminum I don't point the electrode sharply
but leave a flat on the end and lightly pre-heat the work so you can keep the amperage down and still puddle quickly.

BreeBait says: Nov 16, 2009. 11:25 PM REPLY

I do a slight ball at my end, but I want to try what you wrote.

Jon Wilks says: Sep 1, 2009. 8:33 AM REPLY

mstar is very correct

mstar says: Aug 13, 2010. 8:52 AM REPLY

It’s one thing if you are just sticking stuff together in your garage and spent your money on pure tungsten electrodes because that is what you read
in some book, but if you are a journeyman, and you are welding aluminum as part of your job, it is expected that everything you turn out be the
epitome of perfection. The cost of time, electrodes, scrap aluminum, gas, and electricity if far less than the cost of turning out an inferior piece of work
that looks bad and will probably be filled with the thin slivers of tungsten cast off by the disintegrating electrode you used to do the work. If you want
to perform excellent work every time then I suggest you take the time to perform the brief experiment I suggested in my initial posting. On one piece
of scrap use the balled end of a pure tungsten electrode and put your face right down in front of the weld so you can see what happens. It won’t take
more than a few seconds before the ball becomes a lump. That lump is formed by the addition of tungsten as the current melts off the thinner section
above it, the alternation of the AC fluctuation will become evident in the gyrating lump. The popping noise you will hear is the result of that gyrating
lump blowing off the end of the electrode as it travels the line of the current straight into the weld puddle beneath it. If you note the end of the
electrode right after that pop you will see that your ball is gone and as you continue, another ball quickly begins to form and the entire process
repeats itself. The higher the amperage the faster this happens. Each pop represents a miniature shotgun blast of tungsten particles into your weld. If
you x-rayed the piece, the multitude of small inclusions would appear like a star field through a telescope. Every inclusion is a weak spot in your
work. If the piece is subject to internal pressure or mechanical stress from constant movement small hairline cracks will begin to grow from each
inclusion; eventually these small crack connect from one inclusion to the next and the thing breaks off right through the weld. From the standpoint of
a journeyman, this is unacceptable. The higher amperage that is recommended when welding aluminum is to overcome the added resistance of the
ball. If you’re electrode is 3/32” in diameter and the diameter of the ball is 1/8” you must increase the amperage to what you would normally use for
a 1/8” electrode. Since aluminum melts at a lower temperature than steel the amperage necessary should be lower not higher. Consider it logically,
you are compensating for the size of the ball by increasing the amperage. If you preheat the work and use the blunted point on a 2% electrode, the
puddle forms quicker and at lower amperage setting. Because you are running AC the blunted point will still begin to erode and you will have to stop
to reshape your electrode more often. To save time it is better to have a number of electrodes prepared and nearby. Brush the oxide layer off with a
stainless steel brush and continue from where you left off. The difference between a journeyman and a dabbler is attitude and experience. Excellent
work demands patience, self-discipline and knowledge gained by experience. Pure tungsten electrodes make great scribers if placed in a spare pin
vise; they also make good darts for blow guns when pushed through a foam rubber earplug, but they are not made for high quality welding.

themotorman says: Feb 22, 2009. 1:51 PM REPLY

I weld have a pacemaker and also am an EE. Sure, if you have a defibrillator in your body NO WELDING!! But if you have a pacemaker then, and depending
your reason for a pacemaker, you should be OK. The reason for concern is that if you have to have a functioning pacemaker to stay alive minute to minute
then a failure of the pacemaker will mean you die! Most pacemaker users rely on the pacemaker only occasionally and if it failed their own heart would be
OK for most of the time.. It is a risk but reasonable.. the number of deaths or injuries due to using a welding system must be very very small as I cannot find
any reported. If you are going to weld.. keep the wires away from the pacemaker and do not wrap it around your body...this sounds a bit stupid even if you
don't have a pacemaker to me. If you are worried get a pacer monitor and see how your heart functions while you're welding.

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 Judy L Durrant says: Sep 8, 2009. 12:16 PM REPLY
My dad has welded his whole life, he does it as his business. He just had to have a pacemaker and defibulator put in. He was told that he couldn't weld
any more, I need to know if there is a way that he can still weld. It's his love, and I worry about him if he can't get back to normal. Please help if you know
of any way that he can weld. thanks, Judy

themotorman says: Sep 8, 2009. 1:26 PM REPLY

I am so sorry about your dad . If he has a pacemaker AND a defib then there is a small risk that the defib will be initiated by the electrical energy from
the welder. As the risk is not known both as to whether the welding will affect his defib or not and also even if it did affect the defib if the defib going
off would be really bad for your dad. It is not a pleasant experience. It would be perfectly safe to use a torch, oxy/acetylene, for welding. There is
even some risk with this as if he became unconscious when welding he could burn something down. Again unknown risks. The bottom line is that
your dad should decide himself what he wants to do with the rest of his life, without my pacemaker I would have died , probably in a car accident
maybe killing others too. You will find that the doctors opinion is too not do anything but then life without risks isn't worth the living. Only your Dad
knows what is best for him I have said this already but it is so, so true. Best wishes. ron themotorman.

rayfalcon says: Feb 22, 2009. 8:00 PM REPLY

ok what if the user(s) are pacing at 62% then what also with my mom she tried mowing last year using a 22 hp wide body murray lt and she claimes that
the pacer was lighting her up.....is this possible themotorman says: I weld have a pacemaker and also am an EE. Sure, if you have a defibrillator in your
body NO WELDING!! But if you have a pacemaker then, and depending your reason for a pacemaker, you should be OK. The reason for concern is that
if you have to have a functioning pacemaker to stay alive minute to minute then a failure of the pacemaker will mean you die! Most pacemaker users rely
on the pacemaker only occasionally and if it failed their own heart would be OK for most of the time.. It is a risk but reasonable.. the number of deaths or
injuries due to using a welding system must be very very small as I cannot find any reported. If you are going to weld.. keep the wires away from the
pacemaker and do not wrap it around your body...this sounds a bit stupid even if you don't have a pacemaker to me. If you are worried get a pacer
monitor and see how your heart functions while you're welding.

themotorman says: Feb 22, 2009. 9:35 PM REPLY

It is possible but most unlikely. The only way that a pacemaker would malfunction, apart form normal electronic part failures, is for the lead wires to
pick up a signal and it gets interpreted as coming from the heart. The pacemaker has a built in computer that looks at the input and can sort out
"noise" fairly well. If by a strange chance the noise was about the same as the normal heart beat then there might be some confusion, this would lead
the pacemaker to pace the heart a little differently. Most of us without pacemakers have anomalous heart beats all the time and we don't notice.
When I got my pacemaker my wife was so afraid that I called the pacemaker company and got them to re-assure her that I wouldn't die when I used
the welder! One final word on this is if it bothers you don't do it.. that applies to everything in life and there is risk in everything around you. BTW I am
not a medical doctor and any advice is just my opinion, nothing more..

TFTD says: Sep 5, 2009. 6:24 PM REPLY

If you have access to a large belt sander(even a disk) I put my tung into a cordless drill and shape accordingly. Just make sure the everything is being
discharged away from you. Works great.

Johnathon Duchesne says: Aug 14, 2009. 8:48 AM REPLY

it's much easier to follow your rod then going the opposite way around.

Jon Wilks says: Sep 1, 2009. 8:32 AM REPLY

if you can see your rod than you are going to go blind

cheordinario says: Mar 10, 2009. 3:30 PM REPLY

cool GREAT INSTRUCTABLE ¿can you made an instructable to weld steel with TIG?

appsman says: Jun 7, 2009. 11:15 PM REPLY

If you can TIG aluminum, steel should be a piece of cake. I can do OK steel TIG welds, but aluminum is much less consistent for me. Getting the puddle
to bridge two work pieces is easier with steel. The only thing that might be a bit worse with steel is warping.

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