Preparation for planting
Soils
The physical condition of a soil
is very important to any gardener
as it will largely determine how
much work is involved in growing
plants, vegetables, ornamentals
and lawns. The chemical condi-
tion of a soil is important too, but
it is generally easier to add more
fertiliser than to change the
physical structure.
Sandy soils have a large pro-
portion of larger soil particles
compared to clay soils. They are
therefore well aerated and drain
easily but they require more fre-
quent watering. Sandy soils are
easier to dig and are therefore
called " light " soils. Because
sandy soils are composed of larger
narticles they do not retain plant
ltrients as well as soils composed
finer particles. Therefore they
e easily leached by water drain-
ing downwards. Sandy soils
usually require more fertiliser
applied at frequent intervals.
Clay soils are composed of fine
particles which mean that they
have smaller pores for aeration but
they retain water and plant
ltrients better than sandy soils.
lay soils are termed heavy be-
use they are more difficult to
ltivate, they become sticky when
wet and hard when dry.
The proportions of sand, silt
and clay in a soil will determine
its texture. Loams are inter-
mediate in texture and generally
ideal for growing plants of all
kinds. When moistened, clay
soils can be squeezed into a ribbon
by hand while soils with a fair
sand content will crumble and
feel gritty.
Organic matter soils which are under continuous
Plants and animals, after they die, cultivation, the rate of decomposi-
are constantly being broken down tion is faster than in heavy soils
in the soil. Billions of micro- and in acid soils. Cultivation in-
organisms in the soil use organic creases soil aeration and hastens
matter as food and they, in turn, the oxidation of organic matter.
release valuable nutrient elements Decomposition is also faster at
which can be taken up by plant higher soil temperatures.
roots. As a source of plant food
organic manures are not as im-
portant as inorgmic fertilisers, but
it is the soil humus, the cement
which holds tiny clay particles
together, which is vital to the
formation of well structured soils.
Humus holds clay, silt and fine
sand particles together to form
crumbs of soil. Larger pore spaces
form between the soil crumbs
which improve soil drainage and
aeration.
Heavy clay soils which have
good physical structure normally
contain high levels of organic
matter and calcium. These both
help to bind the clay particles into
aggregates, which improves aera-
tion and drainage. Roots can move
into the soil and take in nutrient
elements held by both the clay
particles and the organic matter.
The humus particles, like the clay Digging the
particles, are very small and are
also able to hold plant nutrients
garden
on their surface. Digging breaks up the soil and im-
proves drainage, aeration and root
In sandy soils organic matter
penetration. Vegetable roots are
plays an important part in retain-
deeper than many people realise
ing both soil moisture and soil (page 3 3) and heavy o r compacted
nutrients. Sandy soils which con-
subsoils will restrict root develop-
tain little organic matter are 'easily ment, and growth generally will be
leached, and dry out rapidly.
poor.
Organic matter decomposes at Manures and other organic
different rates, depending on the matter can also be incorporated
amount of fibre in the material, with lower soil layers. This in
the type of soil, the soil tempera- effect will deepen the surface soil.
ture, and the soil moisture. In When digging do not bring sub-
light sandy soils, alkaline soils, and soil to the surface.
 vertically, not at an angle, and little to be gained by double dig-
turn the spit over with a quick ging sandy soils unless the subsoil
turn of the wrist. Never dig when is heavy. The soil is worked to a
the ground is sodden. Compost depth of two spits of the spade,
or manure can then be spread on the practice is also called half
the soil surface. trenching or bastard trenching.
2. Double Digging-This is the Heavier soils should be double dug
method most commonly used to every two to three years. The
break up land which has not been first spit is removed and taken to
previously cultivated, or to im- the other side of the plot then the
prove heavy subsoils. There is second spit is forked up and com-
post or manure incorporated.
3. Trenching-This is a laborious
operation in which the ground is
cultivated to a depth of three
spade spits, about 450 mm. Only
very heavy soils normally require
trenching for annual crops. How-
ever, it is well worthwhile work-
ing soil deeply when perennial
crops, such as asparagus, are to
be planted.
Strip the cover of grass and
weeds off the first section of the
plot for a metre or so and dig out
the first 150 mm of top soil in a
strip about 600 mm wide ; place
this soil at the other end of the
bed. Dig out the next layer of
soil to a dewth of 150 mm. but
only take a Grip about a 306 mm
wide. Place this also at the other
end of the bed, but apart from
the topsoil. The subsoil at the
Plaiiz digging. bottom of the trench can be forked
over and organic material incor-
There are three principal porated with it. On some heavy
methods of digging a bed prior soils sand can be added to im-
to preparing for seeding or plant-
prove the condition of the sub-
ing.
1. Plain Digging-This is suf- soil.
ficient on light, well drained soils, The step of the second layer
or soils which have been deeply can now be dug across, and then
dug during the last two or three a second trench opened up, the
years. All beds for annual crops top soil now being placed in the
should be dug over each year. It first trench. The soil from the
is important that each spit be com- first trench is finally used to fill
pletely reversed. Insert the spade Double digging. in the last trench. 1t is important
15

not to disturb the sequence of soil
layers. If the beds are to be used
for asparagus or rhubarb, add
generous amounts of organic
manure and a complete fertiliser.
Beds are best dug over in the
autumn after the summer crops
have been harvested. Lime and
manure or compost can be applied
a t the same time and the bed left
in the rough until required. The
rough surface will reduce run-off
and erosion. Rotary cultivators
can be used to bring the soil to a
good tilth for planting but they
should be used in conjunction with
digging or ploughing.
Building up
the soil
Few soils are just right for garden-
ing, they may contain too much
clay, and be too sticky when wet
and too hard when dry, or they
may be very sandy and require
frequent watering and more
fertiliser. But both the physical
and the chemical nature of soils
can be changed by the addition
of ameliorants and fertilisers.
Ameliorants include mineral
materials, such as lime, gypsum,
vermiculite and even sand, and
organic matter including animal
manure, compost, green manure
and peatmoss.
Lime and gypsum
Calcium can be added to the soil
either as lime or gypsum to im-
prove the structure. Lime is added
when soils are too acid. Gypsum,
is used to improve the soil struc-
ture when the soil reaction (pH)
is satisfactory. A good dressing
is from 250 to 500 g per square
metre but on very heavy soils this
dressing must be repeated for a
number of years to have an effect.
Green manure crops
If the home gzidener is unable to
obtain supplies of animal manure,
green nure re crops should be
S o w n on empty vegetable beds
16
1
able amounts of water from the I
subsoil and thus dry out soils ,
which might otherwise be too wet '
for spring cropping.
Choice of crops
Both cereals and legumes have
their place for use as green manure.
The cereals include oats, barley,
wheat, ryecorn, and millet. The
legumes include tick beans, lupins,
peas, broad beans, and vetches.
Legumes have the advantage that
they fix nitrogen from the atmo-
sphere which can then be used by ,
the following crop. However
cereals add more fibrous material
which will not decompose as
rapidly ; often mixtures of both
wet and sodden. I f soil f o r n u a ball o f
nzud in your hand ( a b o v e ) it is too
wet. I f soil crumbles easily but will
types of crop can be used. Heavy
benefit largely the
retain the f o r m of your hand when
squeezed ( b e l o w ) then the soil is in an
addition of big amounts of fibrous
ideal condition. t o work. material.
Prepare a good firm seed bed, i
and apply aboult 30 grams of super-
I
phosphate t o the square metre.
Also use 30 grams of sulphate of 1
ammonia if a cereal crop is to be
sown. Seed of cereal crops can be
broadcast at almost 40 grams to
the square metre and legumes at i
about half this rate. I
Green manure crops may
require an initial watering if the 1
autumn is dry, but thereafter no 1
further attention is usually
required.
Legumes are best turned in at
the flowering stage ; cereals can '
be allowed to seed as they will
then provide more fibrous
material. Crops can be chopped
during the winter. Besides the UP with a 'pade and worked in.
leafy material which is turned is necessary to
under, the plant roots add a con- microbes to break this added I,
siderable amount of fibrous matter matter- A light watering
and open up the soil and subsoil. sometimes
During the winter, green where a large bulk of fibrous
manure crops prevent excessive material has been added it may be ;
leaching of plant nutrients on light necessary provide nitrogen
soils by taking up these materials for the micro-organisms ; add
for their own requirements. These t c 20 grams of sulphate of
nutrients are then released to the ammonia the 'quare metre.
soil in the spring when the c r w
has rotted down. Green manure
crops with deep root systems, such
as barley, can remove consider- 1
I
1
 pile and it will have little fertiliser
value.
Heaps about one metre square
and a metre deep work very well
and are a good size for most home
requirements. Start the heap with
a layer of manure or old compost
placed directly on the ground
(select a dry area) and then add
from 150 to 200 mm of waste
vegetable material. Cover each
layer with 20 to 30 mm of animal
manure and then a thin layer of
soil about 10 mm deep. Sprinkle
each layer with lime. If animal
manure is not available add
10 mm of blood and bone or
alternatively a handful of 1 : 1
superphosphate and sulphate of
ammonia.
Organisms which require oxygen
make the best compost, therefore
it is important to ensure that air
can get to all parts of the heap.
This can be done either by driv-
ing a stake into the pile and mak-
ing a ventilation shaft or by com- I;

pletely turning the heap every two

weeks. Turning is the most
effective, and the most laborious
method, but it brings material I
from the outside of the heap into
the centre where it will break
down quickly.
Fresh piles heat up in a few
days and cool down after a week.
After turning, the pile will again
become hot. Heaps will not vork
efficiently if they are too wet or
C o r t ~ p i ) . r 11cjcip.c
t I I I I ~ T : hc propcjrly c.ot~,str-ic(:rc~ci
ro hr-c,iil< c / o w r i o,:qn/iic rc,tr.sfc, ~ / ~ t o
n f o r - t ~~~t ' l ~ i cisl ~easy to h a ~ ~ d l e . too dry. Keep the pile covered
and add water as required. De-
Compost material and animal manure and pending on the amount of turn-
A garden compost heap will pro- release plant foods in a readily ing, good compost can be made
vide an inexpensive supply of available form. These same pro- in two to three months. An un-
valuable organic material and is a cesses also take place when green disturbed pile takes u p to six
convenient method of disposing of manure is dug into the soil. Com- months to break down waste
vegetable refuse from the garden posting breaks down organic material.
and the kitchen. Leaves, old gar- wastes into a form which is easy A wooden bin, or a series of
den plants, lawn clippings, and to handle and easy to work into three bins is ideal for compost-
kitchen refuse (provided it is not garden beds. ing. The front boards should be
fatty or greasy) can be used. Do Compost heaps must be prop- removable so that material can be
not compost diseased plants, they erly constructed if the process is easily handled. Large plastic
may carry over diseases which will to be efficient. Heaps of waste or wire mesh " bins " without a
cause trouble again next season. vegetable material thrown on the base and covered with a lid are
Composting is simply providing ground decompose slowly and excellent for making compost in
ideal conditions for bacteria and attract flies. Rain will also wash the small suburban garden.
fungi to decompose waste plant valuable plant nutrients out of the When the compost becomes

A rrseful compost bin for the back yard. One bin (centre) can be used for new
material, the other (right) can be worked and turned regularly and the third bin
( l e f t ) can contain the finished compost ready for the garden. Each bin measures
approxinzately 1 m x 1 m x 1 m, and are corisrructerl from 40 n7m by 150 m m
planks.
crumbly it is ready to use. Siev-
ing may be necessary to remove
sticks and large pieces of unrotted
material. Spray around the heap
regularly with household fly spray
to control flies in the summer. If
an open heap is used, cover the
sides with a layer of soil.
Manures and
fertillisers
All plants need certain essential
nutrient elements. The elements
carbon, hydrogen and oxygen are
obtained by the plant from air and
water. The main ones which the
gardener must supply are nitrogen
phosphorus and potassium.
Nitrogen is an essential part of
protein and the green leaf pigment,
chlorophyll. It is required in
greater amounts by leaf crops
than fruit crops, in fact excess
nitrogen will reduce the yield of
fruit. Plants which are short of
nitrogen become yellow and
stunted. Nitrogen is supplied in
a readily available form to plants
by fertilisers such as sulphate of
ammonia, nitrate of soda, and
urea, and in a more slowly avail-
able form by blood, and blood and
bone. Nitrogen is also contained
in animal manures and is fixed in
the nodules on the roots of
legumes, such as peas and beans.
Plbosphorus is very necessary for
the early growth of plants. It
ensures good root development
and increases fruitfulness. Most
Victorian soils are deficient in
phosphorus. Superphosphate,
which contains phosphorus in a
readily available form, is used in
greater quantities than any other
fertiliser. Phosphorus is also
contained in a slowly available
form in bone dust and blood and
bone.
Potassium is essential for growth
and development of the plant and
is taken up in large amounts from
the soil. Root vegetables in
particular respond to potassium
fertilisers. Vegetables deficient in
potassium are usually of poor
quality and texture, and more
subject to attack by diseases.
Deficiencies of potassium occur
in southern high rainfall areas,
and as a general rule complete
mixed fertilisers containing potas-
sium should be used for vegetables
south of the Divide.
Sulphur, calcium and magnesium
are also needed in fairly large
amounts but they are usually pre-
sent in good supply. However
they do get into the soil in other
materials, such as lime (calcium),
gypsum (calciuni and sulphur),
dolomitic limestone (calcium and
magnesium), superphosphate (some
sulphur and calcium as well as
phosphorus) and sulphate of am-
monia (sulphur as well as
nitrogen).
Seven other elements are also
required in very small quantities,
these are the trace elements-
boron, copper, iron, manganese,
molybdenum, zinc and chlorine.
Most soils contain adequate
amounts of trace elements and
they are supplied in animal
manures and -compost and also
some are applied indirectly in
fungicide sprays. These include
copper (Bordeaux), zinc (zineb)
and manganese (maneb). Chlorine
is almost always present in suf-
ficient amounts in the soil. The
availability of nutrient elements
may be upset by changes in soil
acidity. This means that although
the element is present in the soil
it cannot be used by the plant.
Organic manures and fertilisers
are generally relatively slow in
action and are applied before the
crop is sown or planted. Artificial
fertilisers are used both to sup-
plement organic fertilisers as base
dressings and to supply plant food
during the growth of the crop when
a rapid response is required.
Organic manures and
fertilisers
Organic fertilisers include animal
manures, composted vegetable
material, green manure crops or
prepared animal and vegetable by-
product materials. They supply
small, but useful amounts of plant
food which are not readily washed
from the soil and they help retain
water and plant foods in the soil.
Animal manures
Well rotted animal manures will
supply nitrogen, phosphorus and
potassium to vegetables in a
readily available form along wit11
other essential elements. Animal
manures vary in the amount of
plant food which they contain, as
this can depend a great deal on the
animals' own food and the amount
of straw bedding or litter mixed
with the droppings.
Animal manure containing a lot
of straw material can starve the
vegetable crop for plant foods,
especially nitrogen, because the
vegetable crop must compete for
the available soil nitrogen with
the micro-organisms breaking
down the straw. Extra nitrogen
fertiliser should be added if the
manure contains a lot of unrotted
straw or buzzer chips. Animal
manures should be supplemented
with superphosphate.
Organic by-product fertilisers
By-products of animal and vege-
table origin also provide a valua-
ble source of plant food. These Cabbage showing leaf symptoms typical
materials include blood and bone,
bone dust, wool waste and hoof micro-organisms which release Pre-plant dressings of blood and
and horn. nitrogen in a form which can be bone or similar fertiliser give a
Blood and bone is possibly the taken up by the plant roots. Blood good steady release of plant food.
best known of these materials. and bone contains no potash. This release may not be rapid
When it is applied to the soil it The slower availability of both enough to keep pace with the
breaks down to supply nitrogen the nitrogen and phosphorus in requirements of the crop and it
and phosphorus. The blood is the blood and bone means that must be supplemented with quick
acted on by bacteria and other less is lost by leaching. acting artificial fertiliser. Blood

Some organic manures and fertilisers

Manure or fertiliser Approximate nutrient content expressed as % of the element
Nitrogen (N) Phosphorus (P) Potassium Q

Animal manure*
Cow 1.0 0.4 0.5
Fowl 2.1 1-6 1.0
--

Horse 0.7 0.4 0.5

Pig 1.1 0.7 0.1
Sheep 1.8 0.4 0.5
Prepared fertiliiserst
" ne dust 3.0 10.9 ..
Blobod and bone 6.0 6.1 ..
-
Blcrod and bone and Potash 5 : 1 4.0 5.2 8.0

The nutrient content of animal manures will vary according to the animal's diet and the amount of litter or bedding present.
t The analysis of prepared organic and inorganic fertilisers is published in the Victoria Government Gazette.
and bone is used to supply part of ammonia make soils more acid. ing fertilisers are muriate of potash
the nitrogen and phosphorus in Nitrate of soda (16%N) is more or potassium chloride (48%
a number of mixed garden expensive than sulphate of potassium) and sulphate of potash
fertilisers to provide a nutrient ammonia but because all of the (42% potassium). Potassium
source which is released relatively nitrogen is already in the nitrate fertilisers are generally applied to
slowly. form the response by the plant is vegetable crops in complete
rapid, even in wet and cold soils. fertilisers. Sometimes it is neces-
Artificial fertilisers It has no acidifying effect but is sary to apply putassium as a side
Artifkial fertilisers are manu- very soluble. dressing with nitrogen to maintain
factured from naturally occurring Urea (46%N) when added to a balanced fertilier.
minerals or they are synthesised. soils is rapidly converted to am- Potassium is not as readily
They provide plant nutrients in a monium carbonate and the leached out as nitrogen but is not
more concentrated and more nitrogen is then converted to held in the soil as firmly as phos-
readily available form than organic nitrate. Urea is very soluble in phorus. However one pre-plant
sources. general the response water and is also used as a foliar application is usually adequate.
to applications of artificial
fertilisers is quite rapid. Fertiliser mixtures
Phosphorus fertilisers Most gardeners find it more con-
Nitrogenous fertilisers Superphosphate is the main phps- venient to use prepared fertiliser
s ~of ammonia
I ~
(21%N) ~is phatic
~ fertiliser
~ Itused ~in Australian
contains
mixtures than to mix their own.
9'4% Mixtures containing only the three
still the most widely used nitrogen
fertiliser in this country and it is phospholus and but major plant nutrients, nitrogen,
used in many mixed fertilisers. The about % is availab1e
each eto
d phosphorus and potassium are
nitrogen is present in the am- the plant. It is l known as Complete Fertilisers, but
m0nium form but it is also con- the soil and pre-plant a ~ ~ l i c a -other complete fertilisers are
verted to nitrate by soil bacteria. be sufficient to last the marketed which contain trace
It is soluble in water and can be life the crop. High elements as well as the three major
leached out of the soil, therefore superphosphateshos
'Ontaining l8
horus
to
elements. Some of the latter mix-
if large quantities of nitrogen are 20% p p are tures are water soluble, and when
required they are best applied in sprayed onto foliage are excellent
small lots as side dressings. Potassium fertilisers for correcting a variety of nutrient
Regular applications of sulphate of The two main potassium contain- deficiencies.

Some fertiliser mixturesf-

Approximate nutrient content expressed as
Brand name or description % element NPK ratio

Nitrogen Phosphorus Potassium

Pivot 5 : 8 : 4 5.0 8.0 4.0 5:s :4

Hortico Vegetable Planter and Feeder 3.0* 6.6 2.51 3:7:3
Hortico Plant Starter 3.5* 3.5* 5.0 4:4:5
Gro-plus Complete Plant Food 4.2 6.8 4.0 4:7:4
Comvlete 5. 2 and 18 5.5 5.8 6.0 6:6:6
Top Brand Complete 5, 1 and 17 2.5 6.4 7.0 3 :6 : 7
Pannifex Vegetable No. 4 5.01 6.5 6.5 5:7:7
-

Pannifex Vegetable No. 5 5.0* 6.5 3.0 5:7:3

Pivot Complete 2, 2 and 1 J' 8-4 3.8 10.0 8:4:10
Aquasol 20.0 5.0 18.0 20:5:18

tA complete list of registered fertilisen sold in Victoria is published annually in the Victoria Government Gazette.
Part or all of the nitrogen as blood and bone.
$ Potassium present as sulphate of potash.
7 Proportions by weight of superphosphate, sulphate of ammonia and muriate of potash.
20
 The Victorian Fertilisers Act Two simple methods of banding fertiliser
requires that the amounts of the
three basic fertiliser ingredients beneath a drill or plant row
present in fertilisers to be ex-
pressed as percentages of the
elements nitrogen (N), phos-
phorus (P) and potassium (K) in
the order NPK.
Experimental work at the
Vegetable Research Station at
Frankston has established that an
N:P:K ratio of 5 : 8 : 4 is the most
economic for root and leaf vege-
tables where no animal manure is
used while 5 : 6 : 2 is best suited
where fowl manure has been
applied. We have generally sug-
gested 5 : 8 : 4 for leaf stem and
root crops. Other suitable com-
mercial base fertilisers for leaf
stem and root vegetables includes
Horitco Vegetable Planter and
Feeder ( 3 : 7 : 3), or Gro-Plus
Complete Garden Food (4 : 7 : 4). Open up a drill deeper than the drill Spread the fertiliser in a band o n the
A number of companies market in which the seed will be sown, spread s~irface and form a bed over the fer-
the fertiliser in a band along the drill, tiliser band. T h e plant is set in the
mixtures with equal proportions of push the soil back over the fertiliser centre of the bed above the fertiliser
N:P:K such as 6 : 6 : 6, which is and firm it down. T h e n open up a band.
formulated by mixing five parts of shallower drill f o r the seed. T h e seed
is sown without contacting the
superphosphate with two parts of fertiliser. Applying manures
sulphate of ammonia and one part and fertilisers
of muriate of potash. NPK for garden use are of the " low Organic manures are best applied
6 : 6 : 6 is quite suitable for most analysis " category and it is con- some time before the seed-bed is
leaf, stem and root vegetables. sidered that fertilisers of this type prepared. Beds can be manured
Summer growing crops which are more suitable for home garden in the autumn for crops to be
*t fruit or pods, such as beans use than most of the "high planted the following spring.
~d tomatoes grow best with mix- analysis " fertilisers offered for Stable manure and compost can be
res containing less nitrogen such sale. spread at about 3 kg to the square
as NPK 3 : 6 : 7. Soils north of Distinguishing names of some metre and fowl manure at up to
the Divide (zones 2 and 3) complete fertilisers commonly 1 kg to the square metre.
generally have good reserves of used for fertilising vegetable crops Very fresh manure must be
potassium and a fertiliser contain- still contain figures which are not applied well before planting as the
ing only nitrogen and phosphorus directly related to their percent- young seedling roots may be burnt.
such as NPK 5 : 7 : 0 is usually ages of NPK. The figures used in Fresh manure can be used on
satisfactory. the names of these low analysis established crops but it should not
Perennial crops such as Complete Fertilisers correspond to touch the plant. It is best to mix
asparagus and artichoke benefit the mass of superphosphate, sul- manures from several sources
from annual dressings of phate of ammonia and potassium rather than use them separately.
. 4 : 10 or similar fertiliser as salts which they contain, in that Manure which contains a lot of
gen erally P tends to accumulate. order. Thus a 5 : 2 : 1 Complete weed seeds should be composted to
IIigh analysis fertilisers such as Fertiliser contains 5 parts of super- kill the seeds.
ot 800 (NPK 8 : 11 : 10) phosphate, 2 parts of sulphate of
con tain almost twice as much N, ammonia and one part of potas- Base-dressing
P 2md K as " low analysis " fer- sium salts by mass, and Complete Commercial arti6cial fertilisers
tilisers such as 4 : 5 : 5 and con- Fertiliser 5 : 1 : 1 contains 5 parts are applied either before planting
aLyuently should be used at half of superphosphate, 1 part of sul- or when the crop is planted. A
"0"

the rate. phate of ammonia and 1 part of good practice is to dig over the
Most mixed fertilisers packaged potassium salts by mass. bed and spread half the fertiliser

over the area and then work up
the seed bed mixing the fertiliser
with the top soil. The other half
of the fertiliser can be applied in
the rows close to where the seed
will be sown or the plants placed.
Open UP a drill row just a little
deeper than the seeding depth and
distribute th'e other half of the fer-
tiliser along this drill. Push about
50 to 80 mm of soil over with
the back of the rake to cover this
fertiliser and then open up another
drill where the seed will be sown.
Alternatively all the fertiliser
can be broadcast but less benefit
is obtained than when part is
applied in bands. Applying too
much fertiliser, or placing it too
close to seeds or plants can affect
seed germination and damage
young roots.
The quantity of fertiliser
required will depend on the natural
fertility of the soil, and the amount
of manure or fertiliser used on
previous crops. Commercial
application rates range from 100
to 1,000 kg of fertiliser to the
hectare that is up t o 100 g to the
square metre. A vegetable garden
10 m by 5 m and growing two
crops a year would require 10 kg
of complete fertiliser.
Side dress crops liXe tot~lntoesb y disirih~rtingfertiliso
Gardeners are dealing with T a k e care t o keep the fertiliser off the leaves.
roots by rain or irrigation water
or when insufficient plant food is
applied when the crop is sown.
Nitrogen side-dressings are
especially necessary for leafy
vegetables.
Frequently potassium fertilisers
must also be applied as sidedress-
ings while the plant is growing to
supplement the initial base applica-
tion. This is usually necessary on
sandy soils during the cooler and
wetter months. It also balances
heavy applications of nitrogen
fertiliser. Apply 30 g of muriate
of potash to two metres of row
with each alternate nitrogen side-
dressing.
Foliar applied fertilisers
Foliar applied fertilisers are a con-
venient way of supplying nutrients
small amounts of fertiliser in while the crop is growing, and like
small plots and too much may be side-dressings they supplement
applied. 'Therefore it is best to pre-plant applications of fer-
measure out quantities for given tilisers. Commercial liquid fer-
areas. tilisers are NPK salts which are
Side-dressing readily dissolved in water and are
Side-dressings are applications of immediately available to the plant.
fertiliser made to growing crops. Other plant nutrient elements,
Keep the fertiliser off plant leaves including the trace elements, are
especially if they are wet. Side- sometimes included in soluble
dressings are necessary because fertiliser preparations.
soluble fertilisers applied in pre- A well known commercial foliar
plant or base-dressings can be fertiliser contains NPK in the ratio
washed out of the reach of plant 23 : 5 : 18 along with trace
irz ri rltlg arorrt~d tllc plant.
elements. It is dissolved in water
at the rate of 1 gram per litre
and can be applied to the leaves
and watered around the roots.
These fertilisers can rapidly cor-
rect nutrient deficiencies because
they are readily taken up by the
plant.
Liquid fertiliser solutions can
also be prepared by dissolving
urea in water at about 30 g in five
litres of water. Sulphate of am-
monia and nitrate of soda soh-
tions will burn leaves but urea can
be applied as a foliar spray.
Liquid manure
Liquid manure can be prepared
by soaking a kerosene tin (20
litres) measure of fowl manure in
a bag suspended in a 200 litre
drum of water. This concentrated A good maintenance dressing o f lime is an amount equivalent to the tnass of
sulplzate o f ammonia applied each year. Lime is best applied in the autrlmn
solution is diluted with eight times months before the winter rains.
the volume of water and applied
liberally around the plants. Do not available to plants in acid soils, alkalinity is described by a scale
splash the liquid on leaves. while manganese-and an element ranging from 0 to 14, the pH scale.
Liquid manure is best applied not required by the plant, pH 7 is neutral, less than 7 acid
when the soil is moist after water- aluminium-can be released in and above 7 alkaline. Most
ing or after rain. Use a weaker such amounts that they become garden plants thrive when the soil
solution for younger plants. toxic. is between pH 6 and 7 and grow
Starter solutions Alkaline soils, and these include reasonably well between p H 5.5
Starter solutions are liquid soils that have been overlimed, and 7 . 5 , the usual range for
fertiliser mixtures applied with the will lock up phosphorus, together garden soils.
planting water when-seedlings are with the trace elements, iron, The tolerance of various vegetable
transplanted. The soluble phos- boron, zinc, manganese and crops to soil acidity is shown in
phate is readily taken up by the copper. the table on page 24. Slightly toler-
young seedling and promotes the Very acid soils also retard the ant crops will grow quite well in
rapid growth of young roots. Any growth of soil micro-organisms soils of pH value up t o 7 - 5 pro-
fertiliser which is readily soluble including those which break down vided there is no deficiency of
in water can be used and com- organic matter and the bacteria elements such as manganese.
mercial mixtures are available. which fix atmospheric nitrogen. In
acid soils, the growth of the potato Regulating soil pH
scab organism is suppressed and it Measuring soil pH is only a start
is best not to lime heavily if to estimating the amount of lime
Soil acidity potatoes are the next crop. On that a soil will require to reduce
and liming the other hand, in soils on the acidity. Soil type has a marked
alkaline side of neutral, the club effect on lime requirements-much
Most vegetables grow best in soils
root fungus, which attacks more lime is needed to raise the
which are neutral or just slightly
crucifers will not thrive, and lim- p H of peat or clay soils than is
acid. However, many soils,
ing will help suppress this disease. required by sandy soils. In south-
especially in southern Victoria, are ern Victoria regular applications
naturally very acid and this acidity The soil pH of lime are advisable to bring the
must be corrected by liming. The range of soil acidity and acidity to the desirable level.
Soil acidity affects plant growth
mainly by its influence on the
availability of plant nutrients.
Phosphorus, calcium, magnesium,
1
and molybdenum become less -- Acid Neutral Alkaline -- -+
23
Tolerance of vegetable crops to soil acidity When lime reacts with nitro-
genous fertilisers the nitrogen is
Slightly tolerant Moderately Very tolerant lost to the at'mosphere. Therefore
tolerant apply lime to vacant beds some
(pH 6.8-6-0) (pH 6.8-5.5) (pH 6.8-5.0) weeks before applying fertilisers,
Asparagus Bean Chicory preferably two or three months.
The best time to lime is in the
Beetroot Capsicum Endive late autumn or early winter. The
Broccoli Carrot Fennel bed should be roughly dug over
Brussels sprout Cucumber Potato and lime broadcast. Although
Cabbage Eggplant Rhubarb
some lime is carried down into
the soil by rain it is advisable to
Cantaloup Garlic Shallot work the lime into the top soil.
Cauliflower Horse-radish Watermelon
Celery Kohl rabi
-
Lee:k
- Parsley Drainage
Let tuce Pumpkin Without adequate and efficient
-
Oklra Radish drainage no amount of soil pre-
Onion Squash paration and fertiliser will produce
good vegetable crops during the
Parsnip Tomato
wetter months of the year. For-
p~a, Turnip tunately many soils have good,
natural drainage and no water-
,er beet
logging troubles are encountered.
But there are others that need sur-
nach face and even underground drain-
age. Impervious subsoils, holIows
and naturally low-lying ground
Chemical analysis is the only in Victoria it is also sold under adjacent to higher areas can all
way to be certain of applying cor- the trade name of Limil @. contribute to wet soil conditions.
rect amounts of lime, but from Hydrated lime is more rapid in its Good drainage ensures that
150 to 300 g to the square metre action than agricultural ground after even a heavy rain the level
should be satisfactory on loam or limestone and is suitable for lim- of saturated soil is lowered below
medium clay loam soils. Generally, ing heavy soils or soils which are the rootzone within a few hours.
more lime can be used on heavier very acid. However its effect is Considerable damage can be
than on lighter soils, but care not as lasting. caused to the roots of vegetable
should be taken not to over lime. Burnt lime or quicklime consists crops by waterlogged soils. The
A good guide for a maintenance substantially of calcium oxide and roots are, in fact, suffocated due
dressing is to apply a little more is particularly rapid in its action. to lack of aeration.
lime than the equivalent mass of Heat is generated when this Wet soil also restricts the acti-
sulphate of ammonia used each material is wetted and therefore vities of earth worms and useful
year. it should never be used t o treat soil micro-organisms. Water re-
Forms of Lime lawns as burning or scalding will quires about five times as much
occur. heat to warm it as an equal mass
The cheapest form of lime is agri-
cultural ground limestone. This of dry soil, therefore well drained
material consists essentially of cal- Application of lime soils will heat more rapidly in the
cium carbonate with some The rates of application recom- spring and produce earlier crops.
magnesinum carbonate. It is mended here refer to high grade
particularly suitable for sandy agricultural ground limestone. Surface drains
soils. Shell lime has the same Approximately 550 g of burnt lime Good surface drainage will pre-
chemical com~osition as- a ~ r i - U
or 750 g of hydrated lime are vent water penetrating into the
cultural mouni limestone but is
u
equivalent to a kilogram of agri- soil and raising the water table,
slow acting. cultural ground limestone. The especially during heavy down-
Hydrated lime or slaked lime is actual amount of any liming pours. Beds should be built up to
also used for gardens. It consists material applied will depend on about 200 mm above the natural
of mainly calcium hydroxide and the quality of the product. surface and the paths between the
24

Treated timber logs ~ n a k en r ~attrnctii~eedg
beds can act as gutters which
should lead away from the garden
area.
Underground drainage
A few test holes dug to a depth
of 1 metre, in which lengths of
perforated down-piping or plastic
drainage pipes are h e d for per-
manent observations, will soon
show if underground drainage is
essential. The water-table should
be at least 600 mm from the sur-
face. After heavy o r prolonged
rainfall the water-table may rise,
but it should return to normal
again in 24 hours after the rain
ceases.
titable drainage layout for the home
Ien. A main pipe down a slope f r o m
to bottom with laterals feeding into
art angle.
outlet. Irregular falls may cause
drains to silt up. Special narrow
draining shovels, o r trenching
machines will save a lot of hard
work in digging out the trenches.
Placing the pipes or tiles
The pipes or tiles are placed care-
fully on the prepared floor of the
trench. The top half of the join
between pipes is covered with 150
mm of 10 mm screenings, then
the rest of the trench is filled with
soil. This filling helps free water
Laying underground drains
Slotted plastic pipe from 35 to 50
mm in diameter or agricultural tile
pipes 75 mm in diameter are suit-
able for most situations found in
the home garden.
Slotted plastic pipes are sold in
convenient coils which are easy
to carry and lay. Plan the layout
to get the best use of the drains.
Pipes running across the fall of
the land are very efficient and are
economical both in the amount of Tile or slotted plastic underground
drainage pipe required and of the drairts shorrld be laid in a trencll cut o n
labor required to install the system. or into the sub soil, then covered with
screenings and top soil replaced t o sur-
The common method of drain- face level.
ing a slope is to place the main
drains down the slope in the low- to drain into the pipes without
est part of the land and then lay impediment.
subsidiary lateral lines across the A brick sump at the outlet is a
slope of land in a herringbone useful inspection point and will
layout. The soil type of the area keep the end of the drain open.
to be drained and the steepness of If the outfall from the property
the land dictate the distance be- is above the water-table it may
tween laterals. Heavy soils may be directed from this point to a
require spacings as narrow as 4 m. convenient stormwater drain or
In sandy soils a spacing of 8 m pumped to a surface drain if a
will often be adequate. suitable gravitational method can
not be used to clear the area.
Digging the drains
I n land that has a clay subsoil,
the trenches should be dug to the
level of the subsoil ; if this level
is less than 300 mm from the sur-
face it is best to build up the top-
soil into raised beds with paths
between. Where there is a sandy
subsoil, the drains are placed at
a depth of 700 mm. The bottom
of the trench should be firrn with
a slight and cven fall towards the