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Basics
Prepare your itinerary Adapt your protection to Know when to turn back
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carefully your environment During your journey, keep four important
Get accurate information about the weather It is essential to be quick when factors in mind: the human element,
and the condition of your planned route; mountaineering. the conditions, the terrain and the timing.
your challenges will vary according to the When the whole team is simul-climbing At a turning point, analyzing these
conditions. with a taut rope, exploit quick and reliable four factors will help you decide whether
Decide how you will ascend and descend. opportunities for protection offered by the to continue or not. For example:
Is your party ready for an itinerary at this terrain (a piece of gear in a crack or a sling How is the climbing party doing physically? 1 2 4 5
level of difficulty? around a rock horn). Are the weather and route conditions good?
On difficult sections, take the time to Is the terrain acceptable?
2 protect yourself and your partner well. Do you have enough time?
Tying off so the excess rope can be used when the rope Climbing with a party of three: how the middle climber ties in.
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Bring the appropriate Anticipate belay stations based on up- in use is loaded: using a cow’s tail.
coming challenges on your route.
equipment
Stay focused
In mountaineering, you have to be fast,
and extra weight is your biggest enemy. Stay focused over easy sections and during
Anticipate the necessary gear for the route the descent. At the summit, you’re only
and the conditions. half-way done!
Add equipment for retreat and/or rescue.
For example, take a crevasse rescue kit for a
glacier travel. Always have a map, compass,
altimeter and headlamp.
B. Falling in a crevasse
20 m
Stopping a fall:
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- tied in at chest-level = danger 1 2 3
8 - 15 m 8 - 15 m
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Information is non-exhaustive. Refer to the other pages as well as to the user instructions and technical manuals. Technical training is essential.
Transfering the load to an anchor. C. Hauling
Snow.
mini 50 cm
maximum 90° When the running carabiner approaches the anchor, slide
the system back down the rope to re-set the hauling system.
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Information is non-exhaustive. Refer to the other pages as well as to the user instructions and technical manuals. Technical training is essential.
D. Moving along an easy snow slope Consequences of the length of the sling on the effort exerted on it.
The leader holds a few coils of the rope in his hand, the last one secured with a blocking knot.
The leader adjusts the length of the rope to the difficulty of the terrain and always positions himself uphill.
The distance between the leader and second is very short, and the rope is kept taut.
Carrying webbing slings Extendable quick draw Equalizing nuts and pitons for a belay anchor.
on the torso.
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Down back up
Do not put a STRING on a sling In the mountains, make sure to hammer in belay station pitons again.
The effects of freezing and thawing can cause the pitons to come out
of the cracks.
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