Professional Documents
Culture Documents
This month's article is by William D. Ehringer, Ph.D. It is being reprinted here with
permission from the author.
For those of you who are into MACs, you know that the MAC-11 is the .
380 version of the gun (Table 1). This question is usually meant to be,
"What is the difference between a MAC-10/9 and a SWD M11/9?" Since I
currently own examples of these weapons, I took the time to write down
the differences and do a little research on the history and development of
the guns and the companies that built them. In no way am I claiming
that this is an all-inclusive list of all the information on MACs. That topic
would be better dealt with in a comprehensive book on this subject.
Rather, this short narrative is intended to give the MAC enthusiast a feel
for the differences and similarities between the two most popular
transferable SMGs ever built.
Manufacturer Model Caliber Features
Military Armament M10 9mm open bolt SMG
Corp.
Military Armament M10 45acp open bolt SMG
Corp.
Military Armament M11 380acp open bolt SMG
Corp.
RPB Industries M10 9mm open bolt SMG
RPB Industries M10 45acp open bolt SMG
RPB Industries M11 380acp open bolt SMG
RPB Industries M10 9mm open bolt pistol
RPB Industries M10 45acp open bolt pistol
RPB Industries M11 380acp open bolt pistol
MAC, Stephensville, M10 9mm open bolt SMG
TX
MAC, Stephensville, M10 45acp open bolt SMG
TX
SWD Inc. M11 9mm open bolt SMG
SWD Inc. M11A1 380acp open bolt SMG
SWD Inc. M10 9mm/45 open bolt SMG*
Jersey Arms M10 9mm open bolt SMG
Jersey Arms M10 45acp open bolt SMG
Erquiaga Arms Co. M10 9mm SMG
Section Five Ltd M10 9mm British made
SMG
Hatton Industries S-701 45acp made for Jersey
(MAC-10) Arms
Table 1. The different models of SMG and open bolt MAC-type guns
produced by various manufactures. This table is by no means intended to be
a comprehensive review of all of the manufacturers and models.
There are seven distinguishing differences between the SWD M11/9 and
the MAC-10/9, and they are as follows:
The above seven differences are certainly not inclusive of all MAC-10/9s
as a number of other companies also made the MAC. I have tabulated
some of the differences below and in Table 1 on the manufacturers and
lineage of the MAC-10.
RPB (which has been rumored to stand for Rape, Plunder, and Burn)
made the MAC in the same calibers as did the Powder Springs Plant, but
in some collectors eyes the manufacturing was not on par with the
original MAC. Nearly all of the machine guns that came from RPB were
either frame flats, frames or completed guns which were bought from MAC
in the auction. Because the machine gun market at that time was not as
popular as it is today, RPB came up with a new marketing strategy, which
was to offer the MAC-10 as a Title I weapon (a semi-automatic) creating
an Open Bolt semi-automatic firearm. BATF stepped in mid-1982 and
halted the manufacture of open bolt semi's because they were easily
convertible to full-auto. About a year later, RPB went out of business.
Other Manufacturers
Suppressors
Now as far as original suppressors go, two general types were built: a
single-stage suppressor that used Nomex wipes and a two-stage
suppressor that was wipeless in design. The two-stage suppressor was the
original can made for the MAC. The single stage suppressor came along
afterwards and was the one hated by its owners, and later by the ATF.
The big reason for this hatred was that for the suppressor to achieve
decent sound suppression, the internal wipes had to be replaced after
only a couple hundred rounds. This is when Gun Show vendors started
selling replacement Nomex "wipe kits." Problem was, that the same
vendor would also sell the tubes the wipes fit in, and those individuals
who made a suppressor in violation of the NFA ruined it for us all. This is
when ATF ruled that any suppressor part was indeed a suppressor and
had to be either registered or in the possession of a Class 2 manufacturer.
Well as you can imagine, this shut-down the "spare suppressor parts
business" and owners of these cans had a "limited life suppressor."
Disassembly instructions
The MAC is a very simple gun to strip. I am going to assume you have a
full-auto MAC, and since I own only PS, RPB and SWD guns, I am going
to give you the necessary information to strip these SMGs. The Texas
MACs are a little different so some steps may need to be fine-tuned in
order to get them to work.
First remove the magazine from the gun and make sure it is unloaded.
Cock the bolt back and make sure there are no rounds in the chamber
(actually this is theoretically impossible in an open bolt gun as the bolt
resting in the battery position should ignite the round, but always check
and be safe). Remove the front pin (two pin design may require a
screwdriver to push the small pin latch off the outer big pin). Remove the
upper receiver from the lower receiver by pulling forward. Remove the
bolt from the upper receiver by moving the bolt rearward until the cocking
knob is centered in the large hole at the rear of the cocking knob race.
Pull up on the cocking knob to remove. The bolt can then be removed
from the upper by sliding it out the back.
(At this point, you are field stripped and ready to clean the lower and
upper components. However, if you want to strip it to parts read on)
Push in on the stock latch button and simultaneously pull the stock
rearward and out of the receiver. Using a small screwdriver, push down
on the stock latch plunger located under the most rearward pin and push
this pin out of the receiver. The plunger, spring, and latch can now be
removed. The stock latch is welded to the frame and is not removable.
On the grip, remove the grip screw and grip. Push the magazine catch pin
through its hole and remove the magazine catch and spring.
In the trigger group. Pull up on the selector spring (long wire that runs
along the left side of the receiver) and pull the selector switch out of its
hole. This may take some gentle nudging and holding down of parts.
Once the selector is removed, the disconnect (thin piece of sheet metal
nearest to the selector switch hole) is free and is removed. Also the sear is
now free and is removed. The trigger is held in place by a trigger pin.
Gently tap on this pin to remove it (some pins are directional so try this
procedure GENTLY on both sides until the pin moves freely; however, all
of the SWD, PS, and RPB guns have a trigger pin that removes from the
left side). With the trigger pin removed, the trigger can be removed, and
the safety is no longer held in place. To remove the safety, carefully tap
the safety roll pin free from the safety and remove the plastic safety
button. The safety assembly is now free and can be removed (Be careful
as the safety has a small spring and detent which can easily be lost).
The bolt strips easily as well. First compress the bolt on its spring
assembly about 1-2" to expose the recoil rod. At the tip of the rod is a
small roll pin. Tap this roll pin out and carefully remove the spring
(Caution: The spring is under a fair amount of force and you should wear
eye protection when working on the gun). With the spring removed, the
recoil rod/ejector rod assembly can be removed. The bolt only has one
working part: the extractor. To remove it, carefully drive the extractor
retaining pin out of its hole. I like to use a drift punch that is the same
size as the hole, this way the extractor is retained on the punch and I can
dictate the "terms" of its removal. Remove the extractor and extractor
spring.
The barrel should be removed only when necessary. Before you start,
spray some Break Free on the threads for the barrel inside of the upper to
help loosen it prior to proceeding. Remove the upper from the gun and
remove the bolt. Place the upper on a soft surface and tap the barrel-
retaining pin from the RIGHT SIDE, so that the force of removing the pin
acts to loosen the barrel (lefty-loosey). Place the end of the barrel in a vice
that is lined with rubber or thick leather. Using a large screw driver or
metal rod that will fit in the upper receiver forward retaining hole, slowly
loosen the UPPER from the barrel (i.e., the barrel remains stationary and
the upper is turned). I have had barrels that were easy to remove and I
have had some that I swear were welded in place. The key is patience and
a good vice.
Conclusion
In my opinion both the SWD M11/9 and the MAC-10/9 are great,
inexpensive, easily accessorized, and easy to maintain submachine guns.
No matter which one you choose, I can almost guarantee that shooting it
will put a smile on your face.