Rough Guide Directions PARIS

Paris
DIRECTIONS
WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Ruth Blackmore and

James McConnachie
NEW YORK • LONDON • DELHI

www.roughguides.com
2
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Contents
The Marais ....................................105
Introduction 4
CONTENTS
The Quartier Latin ..........................116
St-Germain ....................................128
The Eiffel Tower area......................136
Ideas 9 Montparnasse ................................142
The big six ......................................10 Southern Paris................................148
Paris calendar ..................................12 Montmartre and northern Paris ......153
The Seine ........................................14 The Bastille ....................................162
Contemporary architecture ..............16 Eastern Paris..................................168
Art galleries......................................18 Western Paris ................................175
Lesser-known museums ..................20 Excursions......................................180
House museums ..............................22
Walks and gardens ..........................24
Dead Paris........................................26 Accommodation 187
Gastronomic restaurants ..................28 Hotels ............................................189
Great Parisian restaurants ................30 Hostels ..........................................197
Classic brasseries ............................32
Cafés ..............................................34
Paris nightlife ..................................36 Essentials 199
Musical Paris....................................38 Arrival ............................................201
Gourmet Paris ..................................40 City transport ................................202
Shops and markets ..........................42 Information ....................................205
Paris hotels ......................................44 Museums and monuments ............205
Paris fashion ....................................46 Festivals and events ......................206
Gay Paris..........................................48 Directory ........................................207
Kids’ Paris........................................50
Ethnic Paris ......................................52
Green Paris ......................................54 Language 209
Underground Paris............................56 Basics ............................................211
Artistic and literary Paris ..................58 Menu reader ..................................214
Paris views ......................................60
Medieval Paris..................................62
Useful Stuff 216
Places 65
The Islands ......................................67 Index 217
The Louvre ......................................74
The Champs-Elysées and Tuileries ..79
Trocadéro ........................................86
Colour Maps
The Grands Boulevards Paris
and passages................................90 Central Paris
Beaubourg and Les Halles................99 Paris Metro
4
Introduction to
Paris
INTRODUCTION
A trip to Paris, famous as the most romantic of

destinations, is one of those lifetime musts.The very fabric
of the city is elegant, its grand avenues and atmospheric
little back-streets lined with harmonious apartment blocks
and interspersed by exquisitely designed gardens and
squares.The Parisians are no less stylish than their city: a
sophisticated, cosmopolitan people renowned for their chic
and their hauteur.
Through the heart of the
city flows the Seine, skirt-
ing the pair of islands
where Paris was founded.
The historic pillars of the
city, the church of Notre-
Seine from Pont des Arts
Dame and the royal palace

of the Louvre, stand on the
riverbank, along with one
of the world’s most distinc-
tive landmarks – the Eiffel
Tower.There are legions of
The
art galleries and museums
When to visit
Spring is the classic time to visit Paris, when the weather is mild (average
daily 6–20°C), with bright days balanced by rain showers. Autumn, simi-
larly mild, and winter (1–7°C) can be very rewarding, but on overcast days
the city can feel melancholy; winter sun on the other hand is
the city’s most flattering light, and hotels and restaurants
are relatively uncrowded in this season. By contrast,
Paris in high summer (15–25°C) is not the best time to
go: large numbers of Parisians desert the capital
between July 15 and the end of August for the beach or
mountains, and many restaurants and shops close
down for much of this period.
Contents Introduction
5
Alongside the
great civic
museums and
INTRODUCTION
monuments lie
well-defined
quartiers that
make Paris feel
more a collec-
tion of
Montmartre
sophisticated
villages than a
true metropolis.
Sacré-Couer,
Traditional
communities
still revolve
around the
too: between the Musée du local cafés, while wealthier
Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay enclaves preserve their
and the Pompidou Centre, exclusive boutiques and
you can see an unhealthy restaurants. Quarters such as
proportion of the world’s the elegant Marais, chi-chi
finest works of art. For St-Germain and romantic
those willing to venture Montmartre are ideal for
beyond the city limits, the shopping, sitting in cafés
glorious Gothic cathedral and just aimlessly wander-
of St-Denis, the sumptuous ing, while throughout the
royal palace of Versailles city you can find peaceful
and the all-singing, all- green spaces, ranging from
dancing Disneyland Paris, formal gardens and avant-
are easily accessible. garde municipal parks to
from Tour Montparnasse
View
INTRODUCTION 6
Gardens
Tuileries
ancient cemeteries. boulevards and back-alleys,

Few cities can compete from ultra-modern fashion
with the thousand-and- temples to traditional mir-
one cafés, brasseries and rored palaces, and from
restaurants that dot Paris’s tiny gourmet bistrots to
crowded Vietnamese din-
ers. After dark, the theatres
and concert halls host
world-leading productions,
and tiny venues put on
jazz gigs and Parisian
chanson nights, while the
café-bars and clubs of the
Champs-Elysées, the
Bastille and the Left Bank
fill with the young and
style-conscious from all
over Europe, and beyond.
Bastille Café
7
 PARIS AT A GLANCE
INTRODUCTION
The Marais
One of Paris’s most captivating
districts, the Marais brims with
trendy bars and cafés, not to
mention gorgeous Renaissance
mansions, some of which house
outstanding museums.
Notre-Dame
The Islands
The Ile de la Cité’s soaring Notre-
Dame and glittering Sainte-
Chapelle have been inspiring visi-
tors for centuries, while pictur-
esque Ile Saint-Louis is ideal for
leisurely quai-side strolling.
Métro
Beaubourg
Champs Elysées
Synonymous with glitz and glam-
our, the Champs Elysées sweeps
through one of the city’s most
exclusive districts, studded with
luxury hotels and top fashion
boutiques.
Beaubourg
shopwindow
At the heart of the ancient

Beaubourg quartier stands the
resolutely modern Pompidou
Centre, its riot of coloured tubing
Marais
concealing a matchless collection

of modern art.
INTRODUCTION 8
du Tertre, Montmartre
Place
Left Bank
Paris’s Left Bank, south of the
Seine, is a real haven from the
urban bustle of the city’s Right-
Bank core. The studenty Quartier
Latin, fashionable St-Germain,
arty Montparnasse and the
elegant quarter around the Eiffel
Tower all share a relaxed, village-
like feel.
Montmartre
Hilltop views of the city, traffic-free
streets, rich artistic associations
Saint Laurent, Left Bank
and great cafés make Montmartre

the most charming of Paris’s
neighbourhoods.
Eastern Paris
Traditionally the working-class
area, eastern Paris’s diverse stu-
Yves
dent, arty and ethnic mix ensures

a vibrant café and nightlife scene.
Ideas
Contents Ideas
10
The big six
The appeal of Paris
very much lies in its
ability to feel like
two cities. One is a
place of grand
monuments and
world-class
museums; the other
a surprisingly small-
town kind of place, of low-
rise apartments, local
shops and neighbourhood
cafés. You should save a
little time to explore the
more intimate side of the
city, but the landmark The Eiffel Tower
The closer you get, the more impressive the
sights certainly shouldn’t Eiffel Tower becomes. From the top, it’s just
be missed, especially if it’s magnificent.
쑺 P.136 쑺 THE EIFFEL TOWER AREA 쒀
your first time in Paris -
even if you’ve visited many
times before, it would be
hard to tire of the Sainte-
Chapelle or Eiffel Tower,
and you could spend days
strolling around the Louvre
alone.
Sacré-Cœur
Crowning the Butte Montmartre, the
white-domed Sacré-Cœur is an essential
part of the city skyline.
쑺 P.155 쑺 MONTMARTRE 쒀
Contents Ideas
11
The Louvre
The Louvre is simply one of the greatest art
galleries in the world, with a palatial setting
worthy of the collection inside.
쑺 P74 쑺 THE LOUVRE 쑽
Notre-Dame
The great Gothic cathedral of Notre-
Dame, with its delicate tracery, exquisite
rose windows and soaring nave, is an
awe-inspiring sight.
쑺 P.70 쑺 THE ISLANDS 쒀
Pompidou Centre
Famous for its radical “inside-out” archi-
tecture, the Pompidou Centre is one of the
city’s most recognizable and popular land-
marks.
쑺 P.99 쑺 BEAUBOURG AND LES HALLES 쑽
Sainte-Chapelle
The sumptuous interior of the Sainte-
Chapelle, its walls comprised almost entirely
of stained glass ranks among the finest
achievements of French High Gothic.
Contents Ideas
12
Famously described
Paris calendar
by Hemingway as “a
moveable feast”,
Paris won’t
disappoint whatever
time of year you
visit. You’ll see
another side to the
Paris Plage
city, however, if you For four weeks in the height of summer,
time your trip to tonnes of sand are laid out as a beach
along a stretch of the Seine, creating a
coincide with one of kind of Paris-Sur-Mer.
its key festivals or events. 쑺 P.206 쑺 ESSENTIALS 쒀
Turn up on Bastille Day,

for example, and you’ll find
Parisians in carnival mood,
celebrating the 1789
storming of the Bastille
with fireworks and parties.
Later on in July, you can
join the crowds lining the
Champs Elysées to cheer
home the Tour de France
and then work off the
excitement by lying back in
a deckchair on the Seine’s
Paris Plage.
Bastille Day
July 14 is the country’s most important
national holiday, celebrated with dancing,
fireworks and a military parade down the
Champs Elysées.
쑺 P.206 쑺 ESSENTIALS 쒀
Contents Ideas
13
The Tour de France

Join in with the excitement as the world’s
most famous cycle race sprints home down
the Champs Elysées at the end of July.
Foire du Trône
One of the city’s biggest funfairs, held in
April and May, in the Bois de Vincennes.
쑺 P.206 쑺 ESSENTIALS 쑺
Nuit Blanche
During Nuit Blanche (Sleepless Night)
hundreds of galleries, cafés and public
buildings remain open all night, with music
and cultural events held city wide.
쑺 P.206 쑺 ESSENTIALS 쑽
Contents Ideas
14
Sometimes referred
The Seine
to as Paris’s main
avenue, the Seine
sashays through the
centre in a broad
arc, dividing the Left
Bank from the Right
Bank and taking in
the capital’s grandest
monuments on its way. It
was the Seine that brought
the city into being and for
centuries was its lifeblood,
a major conduit of trade
and commerce. These
days, its leafy quais
provide welcome havens Bateaux Mouches
from the city’s bustle and An hour’s trip in a Bateau Mouche is a great
way to get a close-up view of the classic
its numerous bridges buildings along the Seine.
afford fine and unexpected 쑺 P.207 쑺 ESSENTIALS 쒀
vistas, while river trips are

a relaxing way to see some
of the capital’s best-known
sights.
The quais
The tree-lined quais are perfect for relaxing
walks or a restful pause, especially on
Sundays when parts of the Right Bank quai
are closed to traffic.
쑺 P.116 쑺 QUARTIER LATIN 쒀
Contents Ideas
15
Pont Alexandre III
The most extravagant bridge in the city –
witness its single iron arch spanning 109m,
topped off with exuberant Art Deco lamps
and statues of river nymphs.
쑺 P.136 쑺 THE EIFFEL TOWER AREA 쑽
Pont-Neuf
Built in 1607, this elegant arched bridge is
Paris’s oldest and affords fine downstream
views.
Pont des Arts

The Pont des Arts is a graceful link between
the Louvre and St-Germain, with its
benches perfect for sitting out in the sun-
shine and gazing as the river flows by.
쑺 P.128 쑺 ST-GERMAIN 쑽
Batobus
A refreshing and picturesque change to the
Métro, this handy river bus calls at many of
the big sights, including Notre-Dame and
the Louvre.
Contents Ideas
16
Contemporary architecture
Over the past few Fondation Cartier
The Fondattion Cartier’s art gallery
decades Paris has remains the most perfect expression of
commissioned some Jean Nouvel’s work, its walls apparently
dissipating into planes of glass and light-
of the boldest filled air.
architectural 쑺 P.146 쑺 MONTPARNASSE 쑽
projects in Europe.
A large number are
the legacy of
François Mitterrand,
who, like many a
leader of France
before him, was
keen to leave his
stamp on the capital
and enhance the
nation’s prestige.
Many of his
projects, such as the Grande Arche de la
glass pyramid Défense
The sheer scale of this contemporary
erected in the very riposte to the Arc de Triomphe is staggering.
heart of the Louvre 쑺 P.178 쑺 WESTERN PARIS 쑽
palace, were hugely

controversial at first but are
now widely admired,
testament to a new go-
ahead spirit in the city.
Contents Ideas
17
Bibliothèque Nationale
Dominique Perrault’s four book-shaped
glass towers are an astounding sight, but
it’s the garden sunk between them that
makes this one of Paris’s boldest buildings.
쑺 P.151 쑺 SOUTHERN PARIS 쑸
Institut du Monde Arabe

Jean Nouvel’s Arab institute is best loved for
its exquisite moucharabiyah facade, which
blends traditional Arabic art with the latest
technology.
쑺 P.117 쑺 QUARTIER LATIN 쑽
Cité des Sciences

Four times the size of the Pompidou Centre,
this stunningly huge complex is the science
museum to end all science museums.
쑺 P.170 쑺 EASTERN PARIS 쒀
The Pyramid
I.M. Pei’s glass pyramid arose in 1989 in
the Louvre’s historic courtyard, initially
shocking all of Paris.
쑺 P.74 쑺 THE LOUVRE 쑽
Contents Ideas
18
Paris’s galleries
Art galleries
house one of the
finest
concentrations of art
in the world, ranging
from the vast
treasure trove of the
Louvre to small,
specialist collections
built up by wealthy
individuals. The city’s
collections encompass
Greek and Roman
antiquities, oriental art Musée Marmottan
and masterpieces Monet’s paintings of Giverny, as well as
several of his Waterlilies, steal the show
representing all the major at this gallery of Impressionists.
art movements from the 쑺 P.177 쑺 WESTERN PARIS 쒀
Renaissance onwards. As
well as exceptional
paintings by native artists
such as Matisse, Monet
and Renoir, there is a
particularly rich legacy of
works by foreign painters
– Kandinsky, Picasso and
Dalí among them – who
were drawn to the city in
the nineteenth and early
twentieth centuries a time
when, for any aspiring
The Louvre
artist, Paris was the only The Louvre’s collections represent not just
place to be. the best of all French art, but also
Egyptian, Greek, Roman and Islamic
pieces, as well as superb galleries of
European painting and sculpture.
쑺 P.74 쑺 THE LOUVRE 쒀
Contents Ideas
19
Musée Picasso
The largest collection of Picassos any-
where, displayed in a beautiful Renaissance
mansion.
쑺 P.108 쑺 THE MARAIS 쑽
Musée d’Orsay
This converted railway station provides a
cathedral-like setting for the greatest works
of French Impressionism.
Site de Création 쑺 P.132 쑺 ST-GERMAIN 쒀
Contemporaine
A cutting edge gallery and exhibition space,
this fills the contemporary-art gap in the
great national collections.
쑺 P.88 쑺 TROCADERO 쑺
Musée National d’Art

Moderne, Pompidou Centre
One of the finest collections of modern art
in the world, with major holdings of works
by Kandinsky, Picasso and Matisse.
쑺 P.100 쑺 BEAUBOURG AND LES HALLES 쑽
Contents Ideas
20
Lesser-known museums
Paris boasts a host
of lesser-known
but first-rate
museums, often
overlooked by
visitors, and
consequently much
less crowded than,
say, the Louvre or
the Orsay. You can
explore subjects as
diverse as the
history of Judaism
in France,
eighteenth-century
decorative arts, and
the history of the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire
city’s sewers (les Judaïsme
You could easily spend a couple of hours
égouts), as well as viewing and not notice the time passing in this
absorbing museum devoted to the history
some fascinating artefacts, and art of Jews in Europe and North Africa.
ranging from Khmer 쑺 P.105 쑺 THE MARAIS 쒀
sculpture at the Musée
Musée Carnavalet
Guimet to Neolithic dug-out A fascinating museum that brings the
canoes at the Musée history of Paris alive through a wealth of
paintings and artefacts and some wonder-
Carnavalet. Many ful old interiors, rescued from houses
museums, moreover, enjoy pulled down to make way for
Haussmann’s redevelopments.
beautiful settings, such as 쑺 P.109 쑺 THE MARAIS 쑽
fine Renaissance
mansions, showing off their
collections to full
advantage.
Contents Ideas
21
Musée d’Art Moderne de la

Ville de Paris
The city’s own art collection specializes in
paintings of or about Paris itself, making
this one of the most rewarding and intimate
of the larger art galleries.
쑺 P88 쑺 TROCADERO 쒀
Musée Guimet
Visiting the beautifully designed Musée
Guimet, with its refined statues and sculp-
tures from all over the Buddhist world, is a
distinctly spiritual experience.
쑺 P.87 쑺 TROCADERO 쑽
Musée Cognacq-Jay
A small but choice collection of eighteenth-
century paintings and decorative art built up
by a family of philanthropists and art lovers,
the Cognacq-Jays.
쑺 P.109 쑺 THE MARAIS 쒀
Contents Ideas
22
To summon up the
House museums Musée Rodin
Rodin’s elegant studio home now houses
ghosts of the city’s the definitive collection of the sculptor’s
past, you could take powerful, mould-breaking works.
in paintings of 쑺 P.140 쑺 EIFFEL TOWER AREA 쑽
Parisian scenes like

Renoir’s Bal du
Moulin de la Galette,
in the Musée
d’Orsay, or read
great Parisian
novels like Hugo’s
Les Misérables or
Maupassant’s Bel
Ami, but you’d do as well
to visit one of the city’s
historic houses. Many
have been turned into
museums and the best
preserve an original
writer’s study or artist’s
Musée Jacquemart-André
studio. Seeing intimate This sumptuous Second Empire
domestic details like a residence, built for the art-loving
Jacquemart-André couple, displays their
stove, bed or sideboard, or choice collection of Italian, Dutch and
admiring the cool north French masters.
쑺 P.82 쑺 THE CHAMPS-ELYSEES 쑽
light through high studio AND TUILERIES
windows, is an excellent
antidote to the grander
scale of the city outside.
Contents Ideas
23
Musée Bourdelle
The heroic scale of Bourdelle’s proto-
Modernist sculptures is perfectly balanced
by the homely, just-as-he-left-it feel of the
sculptor’s studio and living quarters.
쑺 P.144 쑺 MONTPARNASSE 쑽
Maison de Balzac
The house lived in by Balzac in the 1840s
preserves the simple desk where he would
write for up to eighteen hours at a time for
weeks on end.
쑺 P.177 쑺 WESTERN PARIS 쒀
Musée Delacroix
Delacroix lived and worked in this pretty
studio building, where you can see some of
his smaller works as well as some personal
effects.
Musée Moreau
Gustave Moreau’s eccentric canvases cover
every inch of his spacious studio’s walls;
immediately below, you can visit the tiny
apartment where the artist lived with his
parents.
쑺 P.159 쑺 MONTMARTRE AND 쒀
NORTHERN PARIS
Contents Ideas
24
Of all the ways to
Walks and gardens
get under the skin
of Paris, perhaps the
most satisfying is
just to appreciate
the peace in one of
the city’s harder-to-
find little gardens,
or take a short
walk along the
elegant promenades
that can be found
here and there, with Promenade Plantée
a bit of looking. Get a different angle on the city from this
old railway viaduct, now an elevated
Quite apart from their walkway planted with a glorious abun-
charm, and the pleasure to dance of trees and flowers.
be found in discovering 쑺 P.164 쑺 THE BASTILLE 쒀
them, these hidden nooks

and quiet breathing spaces
are wonderful for people-
watching: this is where
you’ll find Parisians
walking their dogs, playing
with their kids, reading,
hand-holding, and just
taking time out from the
city.
Jardin Atlantique
Although a public park, the Jardin
Atlantique is actually hidden away on top
of the Montparnasse railway tracks – a
triumph of engineering and contemporary
garden design.
쑺 P.142 쑺 MONTPARNASSE 쒀
Contents Ideas
25
Place Dauphine
Relax and watch a spot of leisurely boules
being played under the chestnuts of this
peaceful and secluded square.
쑺 P.68 쑺 THE ISLANDS 쑽
Jardin du Palais Royal

Enclosed by a stately ensemble of arcaded
buildings and little frequented, the Jardin du
Palais Royal feels like a secret garden in the
middle of the city.
쑺 P.94 쑺 THE GRANDS BOULEVARDS 쒀
AND PASSAGES
Canal St-Martin
With its elegant arched bridges and leafy
quais, the Canal St-Martin is a charming
spot for a stroll.
쑺 P168 쑺 EASTERN PARIS 쑺
Allée des Cygnes

One of the most unusual Paris walks, this
takes you along a tree-lined embankment
adrift in the Seine and proffers dramatic views
of the post-industrial western riverbanks.
쑺 P.150 쑺 SOUTHERN PARIS 쑽
Contents Ideas
26
From the royal
Dead Paris
tombs at St-Denis to
the memorials at the
Panthéon and
Napoleon’s tomb at
Les Invalides, the
dead of Paris
certainly make their
presence felt. It’s the
cemeteries, however, that
make the biggest impact
on the city’s landscape.
From vantage points like Père-Lachaise cemetery
the Eiffel Tower they seem Pay homage to Chopin, Oscar Wilde or
Jim Morrison – just some of the count-
to fill a surprising amount less notables buried in what is arguably
the world’s most famous cemetery.
of the city’s area, looking
like green islands speckled
with miniature stone
apartment blocks. Père-
Lachaise is a major draw,
but don’t miss the smaller
graveyards at Montmartre
and Montparnasse. The
most morbid sight of all,
the bone-lined catacombs,
is covered in “Underground
Paris” (see p.146).
Montparnasse cemetery
You can seek out the graves of Baudelaire,
Beckett, Sartre and de Beauvoir at
Montparnasse cemetery, and admire the
powerful Brancusi sculpture of The Kiss.
Contents Ideas
27
Napoleon’s tomb
The emperor’s magnificently pompous tomb
is the highlight of the great military complex
of Les Invalides.
쑺 P.139 쑺 THE EIFFEL TOWER AREA 쒀
Panthéon
Moving their remains to the crypt of the
Panthéon is the greatest honour the French
Republic can bestow on its artists, poets,
thinkers and politicians.
쑺 P.120 쑺 QUARTIER LATIN 쑸
Montmartre cemetery
Zola’s grave, its effigy often graced by a
rose, is found at Montmartre, along with
other artistic greats Stendhal, Degas and
François Truffaut.
쑺 P.157 쑺 MONTMARTRE AND
NORTHERN PARIS 쑽
Contents Ideas
28
Paris boasts an
Gastronomic restaurants
unparalleled
concentration of
haute-cuisine
restaurants and is
the perfect place to
blow out on the
meal of a lifetime.
Not only will the
food be some of the
most sublime you’ve
ever tasted but the
service will be
impeccable – L’Ambroisie
attentive yet Beautiful tapestries provide a fitting
backdrop to this intimate and refined
discreet . Also, while restaurant, which serves exquisite and
the decor might be creative cuisine.
belle époque or
Louis XV, gastronomic
cuisine doesn’t have to
mean astronomic prices,
some restaurants offer a
set lunch menu for around
e60. In the evening prices
average at e150 for three
courses, and there’s no
limit on the amount you
can pay for fine wines.
Taillevent
Michelin three-star rated since 1973 – no
mean achievement – Taillevent won’t fail
to please with its ever-inventive dishes
and outstanding wine cellar.
쑺 P.85 쑺 THE CHAMPS-ELYSEES 쒀
AND TUILERIES
Contents Ideas
29
Lasserre
A classic haute-cuisine establishment with a
lovely belle époque dining room and a roof
that is rolled back to reveal the Paris sky on
balmy summer evenings.
쑺 P.84 쑺 THE CHAMPS-ELYSEES 쑺
AND TUILERIES
Alain Ducasse at the Plaza

Jules Verne Athénée
It’s hard to decide which is better at Jules One of the most innovative chefs around,
Verne, the view from the second floor of the Alain Ducasse sends diners into raptures
Eiffel Tower or the truly excellent contempo- over his exquisite food and ultra-stylish
rary French cuisine. You’ll need to book a decor – Louis XV chandeliers draped with
few months in advance and dress your best shimmering, metallic organza.
for the trip up the private lift. 쑺 P.84 쑺 THE CHAMPS-ELYSEES 쒀
쑺 P.141 쑺 EIFFEL TOWER AREA 쑽 AND TUILERIES
Contents Ideas
30
Great Parisian restaurants
One of the chief Chartier
Opened in 1896 to serve affordable meals
pleasures of a visit to thousands of Auvergnats fleeing
to Paris is deciding poverty and hardship in the Massif
Central, Chartier is still going strong, its
where to eat – not decor little changed and its food as cheap
least because the and good value as ever.
choice is so good. 쑺 P.97 쑺 THE GRANDS BOULEVARDS 쑽
While the city is

justly famed for its
haute-cuisine
restaurants, there is
no shortage of
places where you
can eat extremely
well for a modest
outlay. The Marais
Quartier Latin, and
Saint-Germain are
particularly well
supplied with
excellent places, but
nearly every quartier has
Le Reminet
its local that serves food to This small, relaxed restaurant has a really
very high standards. We’ve enjoyable mixture of inventive style and
friendly homeliness, both in its cuisine and
selected just a few of our its ambience.
favourite haunts below, 쑺 P127 쑺 QUARTIER LATIN 쑽
chosen for their cuisine,
ambience and decor.
Contents Ideas
31
Au Bourgignon du Marais
A little outpost of Burgundy, serving up
delicious regional specialities, paired with
carefully chosen wines.
A la Pomponette
Deeply old-fashioned and in the heart of
Montmartre, the Pomponette is already
halfway to being a classic bistrot. Add
traditional, lovingly prepared cuisine and
L’Avant Goût you’ve got a winner.
Hidden away near the Butte-aux-Cailles, this 쑺 P.160 쑺 MONTMARTRE AND 쒀
tiny restaurant is in the vanguard of bistrot NORTHERN PARIS
cuisine: fresh, exciting flavours cooked with
panache and served without excessive fuss.
Pitchi Poï
The warmth of Pitchi Poï ’s flavoured
Polish vodkas is more than matched by
the convivial surroundings and friendly
service at this fine Jewish/central
European restaurant.
Contents Ideas
32
Classic brasseries
First brought to
Paris by immigrant
Alsatians in the late
nineteenth century,
brasseries were
originally simple
beer taverns
(“brasserie” means
“brewery”). Over the
years, they have
Bofinger
added full dinner Bastille opera-goers pack the tables
menus and continue beneath this classic brasserie’s splendid
glass cupola.
to offer an authentic 쑺 P.167 쑺 THE BASTILLE 쒀
taste of Parisian life
with many preserving their
fine belle époque interiors
– globe lamps, glass
cupolas, brass fittings and
dark-leather banquettes.
They’re delightfully bustling
places: white-aproned
waiters dash up and down
bearing enormous platters
of seafood, steak or
sauerkraut – and you’ll find
them just as animated late
into the night as they are in
the early evening, full of
the post-theatre and
concert crowd taking
advantage of the late Lipp
Lipp is a St-Germain classic: the haunt of
opening hours. powerful editors and media faces, it
serves wonderful sauerkraut, among
other traditional brasserie plats.
쑺 P.135 쑺 ST-GERMAIN 쒀
Contents Ideas
33
Le Vaudeville
This lively establishment, attractively deco-
rated with marble and mosaics, serves
gigantic seafood platters and is especially
popular with the post-theatre crowd.
쑺 P.97 쑺 THE GRANDS BOULEVARDS
AND PASSAGES 쑽
Flo
This deeply old-fashioned brasserie is
hidden away in an atmospheric courtyard
near the Porte St-Denis in northern Paris,
but it’s well worth the journey.
NORTHERN PARIS
La Coupole
You can recapture something of the spirit of
Montparnasse’s fashionable heyday at this
giant, high-ceilinged brasserie, packed with
drinkers and diners into the small hours.
Le Square Trousseau
Set on an attractive square, this handsome
brasserie attracts a chic but relaxed
clientele.
쑺 P.167 쑺 THE BASTILLE 쒀
Contents Ideas
34
Cafés Chilling out in cafés
is one of the chief
pleasures of a trip to
Paris and the best
way to get your
finger on the city’s pulse.
A mainstay of Parisian
society, cafés are places
where people come to pose
and people-watch, debate
and discuss or simply read
a book, knowing that once
they’ve bought their drink,
the waiter will leave them
undisturbed for hours at a
time. Some places have a
chameleon-like existence, Bar du Marché
changing from quiet places The “market bar” pulls in the punters from
St-Germain’s busy old market street, rue
for coffee in the daytime to de Buci, adding a dash of fashion-
buzzing venues – more like conscious, youthful style to the area.
bars – in the evening.
Whether you prefer Left
Bank literary haunts or hip,
stylish joints in the Marais
and Bastille, you’re bound
to find somewhere that
appeals.
Café de l’Industrie
One of Bastille’s best cafés – young and
busy yet comfortable and unpretentious –
this is the kind of place that’s hard to
leave once you’re ensconced.
Contents Ideas
35
Café de la Mosquée
The café at the Paris mosque offers a taste
of North Africa right in the heart of the
Quartier Latin. Try the mint tea and delicious
pastries.
L’Apparemment Café
A chic but comfortable café, with a warren
of cosy back rooms that makes it good for
unwinding in; you can play board games,
too.
Le Petit Fer à Cheval

A very attractive small café with a marble-
topped bar in the shape of a horseshoe (fer
à cheval ), ideal for an aperitif or pick-me-up
espresso.
쑺 P.114 쑺 THE MARAIS 왘
Café Charbon
An attractively revamped early twentieth-
century café, attracting a young, trendy
crowd.
쑺 P.173 쑺 EASTERN PARIS 쑽
Contents Ideas
36
Many of Paris’s best
Paris nightlife
café-bars stay open
very late, so after
midnight you’re not
necessarily
committed to a full-
on club. If you do go
clubbing, you’ll find
most Parisian DJs
playing house or
techno, but the
musical style and general
vibe really depends on
who’s running the
individual soirée. Check out
gay and lesbian venues too
(see p.48), many of which Pause Café
What starts as a laid-back café in the
attract trendy, mixed daytime becomes a busy, trendy
crowds. Taxis are hard to nightspot after midnight, with pavement
tables, relaxed music and lots of chatter.
find after hours, so Parisian
clubbers often keep going
until after 5.30am, when
the Métro restarts, or stay
up even later at a
fashionable “after” event.
Batofar
The boats moored beside the
Bibliothèque Nationale host some of
Paris’s liveliest and least pretentious
nightlife venues, and this former light-
house ship is the coolest of the lot.
쑺 P.152 쑺 SOUTHERN PARIS 쒀
Contents Ideas
37
La Folie en Tête
The Butte-aux-Cailles, down in southern
Paris, is renowned for its alternative, left-
wing spirit, and La Folie en Tête is the most
characterful of its friendly, laid-back bars.
Bastille bars
The Bastille area is the liveliest place in
Paris for nightlife, with excellent venues
ranging from trendy, late-opening little
cafés to club-bars with DJs.
쑺 P.166 쑺 THE BASTILLE QUARTER 쑽
Les Bains
This flashy venue – once a bathhouse – has
been taken over by a cool set, so you’d bet-
ter look beautiful to get past the bouncers.
쑺 P.104 쑺 BEAUBOURG AND LES HALLES 쒀
Rex Club
For music, the Rex is one of the best, with
an excellent sound system, lots of space and
enough clout to pull in the top promoters.
쑺 P.98 쑺 THE GRAND BOULEVARDS
AND PASSAGES 쑽
Contents Ideas
38
Paris has a
Musical Paris
stimulating and
diverse musical
scene as rich as in
any leading capital
city. Classical music,
from the traditional
to the cutting-edge,
flourishes, while
opera-lovers can
choose between the
glittering Opéra Garnier and
the modern Opéra Bastille
(see p.167). World music,
too, has a strong following,
with France’s past links to
North and West Africa
meaning you’re as likely to Café de la Danse
find the leading stars of An intimate and attractive club hosting
rock, pop, world and folk music.
Mali and Algeria living and
performing in Paris as in
their own countries. In the
city’s bars and clubs, techno
and house tend to rule,
while that most French of
musical traditions, the
chanson, has recently made
a comeback and can be
heard in select, intimate
venues around the city.
Opéra Garnier
A more opulent setting for grand opera
and ballet would be hard to imagine.
AND PASSAGES
Contents Ideas
39
New Morning
A cavernous space with spartan decor and
often standing room only, but the jazz afi-
cionados who flock here nightly to hear the
big names on the circuit don’t seem to mind.
NORTHERN PARIS
Théâtre des Champs-Elysées

The premiere of Stravinsky’s Rite of Spring
caused a riot here in 1913; these days its
varied programme of classical music, opera
and dance is more likely to meet with
hearty applause.
쑺 P.85 쑺 THE CHAMPS-ELYSEES
AND TUILERIES 쑽
Au Limonaire
This tiny dinner and chanson venue could
hardly be more Parisian, showcasing up-
and-coming talent in the best jazzy, comic-
romantic-philosophical French tradition.
AND PASSAGES
Contents Ideas
40
Gourmet Paris
You don’t have to
dine out to
experience the best
of French food in
Paris. Supermarkets
may have driven out
some of the
everyday grocers’
and butchers’
shops, but at the top
end of the market
you’ll find plenty of deluxe
pâtisseries, chocolatiers,
charcuteries, fromageries,
Mariage Frères
traîteurs and épiceries. Caddies of familiar and exotic teas pack
Some are grand-scale, this delightful shop from floor to ceiling.
luxury food emporia, others
bijou specialists where you
can buy what the owner
swears is the very best
chocolate truffle, pâté or
goat’s cheese in the world.
You’ll also get the best
advice on how to buy,
keep, serve and ultimately
eat your chosen treat, and
it’ll be meticulously well
wrapped.
Hédiard
Superlative-quality groceries, with sales
staff as deferential as servants, as long as
you don’t try to reach for items yourself.
AND PASSAGES
Contents Ideas
41
Barthélémy
The old shop front dates back to the days
when Bartélémy was a dairy. Now it sells
the best French cheeses.
Debauve & Gallais

A temple to chocolate in the heart of St-
Germain. Endless inventive varieties are
made, displayed and finally wrapped up with
serious devotion to the art.
Au Bon Marché
The food hall at the Bon Marché department
store is the place for fine French foods, as
well as luxury deli goods from around the
world.
Fauchon
If there’s a luxury French delicacy this food
emporium doesn’t stock, then it isn’t worth
knowing about.
AND PASSAGES 쑽
Contents Ideas
42
Some of the best
Shops and markets
places to shop in
Paris have unusual
venues. Two
enormous flea
markets squat just
beyond the
périphérique ring
road, at the northern
and southern fringes The Viaduc des Arts
of the city, and you The arches of this former railway viaduct
now house over fifty workshops, including
can pick up fashion and jewellery designers, violin-
wonderful bargains makers and tapestry restorers.
and bric-a-brac at
both, as well as The passages
much more upscale Paris’s nineteenth-century arcades are
gradually being restored to their former
furnishings and curiosities. glory and are excellent hunting grounds
By contrast, you won’t find for unusual gifts and one-off buys.
many souvenirs at St- AND PASSAGES 쑽
Denis’ suburban market,
but you will get a powerful
flavour of the vibrant,
ethnically mixed city that
lies “beyond the walls”.
Back in the centre, the
handsome, nineteenth-
century passages house
lots of fascinating
boutiques, while the funky
shops under the arches of
the Viaduc des Arts
specialize in design.
Contents Ideas
43
St-Denis market
The market at suburban St-Denis is more
than a little rough at the edges, but it’s
lively, funky and quite different from any-
thing else you’ll experience in Paris.
쑺 P.183 쑺 EXCURSIONS 쑽
Puces de St-Ouen
A giant antiques emporium with an equally Puces de Vanves
massive cheap clothing, jumble and grey- The Puces de Vanves is the most faithful to
import market hanging onto its coat-tails, Paris’s flea-market traditions, with stall after
St-Ouen is the king of Paris’s flea markets. stall of curiosities, bric-a-brac and antique
쑺 P157 쑺 MONTMARTRE AND junk.
NORTHERN PARIS 쑽 쑺 P.149 쑺 SOUTHERN PARIS 쒀
Contents Ideas
44
L’Hôtel
Paris may have
Paris hotels
Famously, Oscar Wilde died in this hotel, and
some seriously it has been restored with more than a touch
luxurious hotels, of camp decadence, as well as serious luxury.
쑺 P.194 쑺 ACCOMMODATION 쑽
such as the Hôtel
Bristol, with its
Gobelins tapestries
and colonnaded
gardens, but you
don’t have to pay
over the odds for
somewhere with character
and atmosphere. The
Marais and Left Bank yield Hôtel Chopin
A charming, quiet hotel tucked away down
many moderately priced an elegant nineteenth-century passage.
hotels in converted old 쑺 P.193 쑺 ACCOMMODATION 쑽
town houses, which often

retain attractive original
features such as stone
walls and exposed beams.
You can also find the odd
gem right at the budget
end of the scale: the Henri
IV, run by the same family
for generations, enjoys an
unbeatable location on one
Hôtel du Globe
of the most attractive Friendly, well-located in the middle of St-
squares at the heart of the Germain, and charmingly decorated in an
eccentrically medieval style, the Globe has
city. earned its reputation as a classic.
Contents Ideas
45
Hôtel Henri IV
Some of the rooms are very worn, but a
number have recently been refurbished, and
you can’t beat the location on beautiful
place Dauphine.
Hôtel Ermitage Hôtel Caron de

If you’re looking for a quiet, old-fashioned, Beaumarchais
romantic retreat, look no further than the A beautiful hotel decorated throughout in
Ermitage, hidden away on the eastern Louis XVI style, down to the pianoforte in
heights of Montmartre. reception.
쑺 P.196 쑺 ACCOMMODATION 쑽 쑺 P.193 쑺 ACCOMMODATION 쒀
Contents Ideas
46
Paris remains the
Paris fashion
capital of world
fashion - even if
you agree with Yves
St-Laurent that Paris
Fashion Week is “a
ridiculous spectacle
better suited to a
concert stage”. If
you’re in the market
for haute couture, or are
enough of a fashion
devotee to visit the
exquisite, historic clothes
on display at the Musée de
la Mode, you’ll find the
shopping superb. Glitzy
couture names and
international ready-to-wear
brands are thick on the
ground in the Champs-
Elysées and St-Germain
quarters, while for
independent little
boutiques, scour the Marais
and Bastille, or the area
around Abbesses métro,
near Montmartre.
Abbesses boutiques
Shoppers with an original frame of mind
should make for the little streets around
place des Abbesses, where there’s a
cluster of independent designers and
boutiques for smaller women.
NORTHERN PARIS
Contents Ideas
47
Isabel Marant
Isabel Marant may be young but she’s a
fully-fledged designer with a fast-growing
reputation. Yet the prices of her exciting,
sometimes showy ready-to-wear collections
aren’t stratospheric.
쑺 P.166 쑺 THE BASTILLE 쑽
Musée de la Mode
If you can’t wear the best, you can at least
stare at it at the Fashion Museum, which
holds fascinating exhibitions on exquisite
and historic designer wear.
쑺 P.87 쑺 TROCADERO 쒀
Zadig & Voltaire Le Mouton à Cinq Pattes

If the budget doesn’t stretch to couture you You can find rack upon rack of what the
can find beautifully cut, original and flatter- French call stock – back-catalogue, end-of-
ing designs at this Paris-based chain, which line factory seconds – at this mini-chain of
has branches all over the city. bargain clothes stores.
쑺 P.103 쑺 BEAUBOURG AND LES HALLES 쒀 쑺 P.133 쑺 ST-GERMAIN 쑽
Contents Ideas
48
Gay Paris
Paris isn’t just gay-
and lesbian-
friendly, it positively
revels in an
atmosphere of
openness, especially
in the “pink
triangle” around rue Ste-
Croix de la Bretonnerie, in
the heart of the fashionable
Marais district. Even the
city’s mayor, Bertrand
Delanoë, is openly gay. An
excellent monthly
magazine, Têtu
(“Headstrong”), lists the
best bars and clubs, and
there’s an ever-growing
number of gay-oriented Le Mixer
Just a tiny little bar but a very lively one,
hotels and restaurants too. with a DJ mixing it up from a pulpit-like
The scene’s confidence platform, lots of stylish lighting and a
friendly, gay/lesbian/bi/straight crowd.
and stylishness often spills 쑺 P.114 쑺 THE MARAIS 쒀
over into straight nightlife:
gay clubs such as Pulp Le Pulp
There’s something very different about
attract a seriously cool this lesbian-run, mostly mixed club. It’s
straight clientele. friendlier, more laid-back and yet trendier
than many others in Paris – and it plays
the best music.
AND PASSAGES 쑽
Contents Ideas
49
Gay Pride
The big event of the calendar is the half-
million-strong pride march on the last
Saturday of June, with lots of spin-off
concerts, parties and events.
Amnésia Café
The most relaxed and upmarket gay venue
in the city, affecting a cosy, sofa-filled
Friends vibe by day and lots of cocktail-
fuelled bonhomie at night.
쑺 P113 쑺 THE MARAIS 왘
L’Open Café
The original out-and-proud café, at the
very apex of the “pink triangle”. Famous
for its tables outside on the street, which
make a great venue for posing and people-
watching.
Contents Ideas
50
Kids Paris
The obvious lure of
Disneyland aside,
Paris has plenty of
attractions and
activities to keep
most children
happy: puppet
shows, funfairs,
zoos and adventure parks,
not to mention more off- Disneyland
beat attractions such as Disney’s vast theme park may not be very
French but the children will love it. Even
the creepy catacombs (see cynical adults may find it hard to resist
p.146) and dingy sewers the more exciting rides.
(see p.138). In addition, 쑺 P.184 쑺 EXCURSIONS 쒀
nearly every park, big or

small, has its play area
with swings and slides.
Just as much of a delight
for many children is Paris’s
vibrant atmosphere, with
its street performers and
buskers, lively pavement
cafés and brightly lit
carrousels.
Jardin d’Acclimatation
No child could fail to be enchanted by this
wonderland of mini-canal and train rides,
adventure parks, trampolines, bumper
cars, puppet theatres and farm animals.
쑺 P.178 쑺 WESTERN PARIS 쒀
Contents Ideas
51
Parc de la Villette
The Géode Omnimax cinema is just one of
the many attractions for kids in this
futuristic park.
쑺 P.168 쑺 EASTERN PARIS 쑽
Jardin du Luxembourg boats

One of the timeless pleasures of the
Luxembourg gardens is hiring a toy boat
and sailing it to and fro across the circular
pond.
Sandpits
Paris seems to have sandpits in spades – at
least one in every park and recreation area,
as in the Palais Royal garden here.
AND PASSAGES 쑽
Contents Ideas
52
For all that Paris is
Ethnic Paris
one of the world’s
great ethnically
mixed cities, you
could be forgiven for
not noticing, as the
majority of the black
and North African
population lives out
in the suburbs. The
vigorously revived Jewish
quarter, on the other hand,
is right in the heart of the
city. As a visitor, the best
way to get a flavour of
ethnic Paris is to try the
food: Vietnamese and
African cuisine is
particularly well
represented, alongside the
famous couscous cafés.
Alternatively, visit the
wonderful Institut du
Monde Arabe (see p.117)
or try a hammam steam
bath – an outing that has
become a Parisian
institution.
Vietnamese restaurants
The best restaurants in so-called
Chinatown, in the south of Paris, are the
Vietnamese ones. Try the pho soup and
the excellent desserts.
쑺 P.150 쑺 SOUTHERN PARIS 쒀
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53
Couscous
Couscous is North Africa’s gift to Paris. You
can find it everywhere, from fast-food cafés
with just a couple of seats to more elabo-
rate settings, such as the fine belle époque
Chez Omar in the Marais.
Hammam at the Paris

mosque
Of all Paris’s hammams, or bath houses, the
Paris mosque’s feels the most authentic,
and you can relax with a mint tea in the
courtyard afterwards.
쑺 P.122 쑺 QUARTIER LATIN 쒀
The Jewish Quarter
Paris’s lively Jewish quarter is little more Waly Fay
than one street but there’s no mistaking This cosy but elegant West African restau-
when you hit it, crammed full as it is of rant is distinctly upmarket. The stews are
kosher food shops, Hebrew bookstores and richly spiced and the ambience warm and
falafel stalls. welcoming.
쑺 P.110 쑺 THE MARAIS 쒀 쑺 P.174 쑺 EASTERN PARIS 쑽
Contents Ideas
54
Place des Vosges
Green Paris
Paris may lack the
The place des Vosges’s harmonious
large open spaces ensemble of pink-brick buildings form an
of London or New elegant backdrop to the attractive and
popular garden at its centre.
York, but this is 쑺 P.111 쑺 THE MARAIS 쑽
more than made up
for by its beautiful
parks, from the
majestic formal
gardens of the
Tuileries and Jardin du
Luxembourg to the wilder,
less ordered green spaces
of the Bois de Boulogne
and Bois de Vincennes on
the city’s periphery. Paris’s
parks are places where
people come to meet each
other, relax and have fun:
families stroll or sit out in
the open-air cafés, elderly
men play chess under the
chestnut trees and children Bois de Boulogne
This huge swathe of parkland, with its
mess around in sandpits or many attractions, such as the Parc de
get treated to pony rides. Bagatelle rose garden, is a favourite
Parisian retreat.
쑺 P.177 쑺 WESTERN PARIS 쑽
Contents Ideas
55
Parc André-Citroën
On the edge of the city, sloping down to the
river, this public park is famous for its imag-
inative design, balloon ride and its capri-
cious, computer-controlled fountains.
Jardin des Tuileries

The French formal garden par excellence:
sweeping vistas, symmetrical flowerbeds
and straight avenues.
쑺 P.82 쑺 THE CHAMPS-ELYSEES 쒀
AND TUILERIES.
Jardin du Luxembourg
For all its splendid Classical design, the
Luxembourg is still the most relaxed and
friendly of Paris’s parks.
Contents Ideas
56
Paris presents a
Underground Paris
glamorous, unruffled
facade to the world.
Its monuments are
beautifully kept, its
boulevards regularly
planned and its
apartment blocks
designed to an
elegant, uniform
standard. The best
way to scratch that
glossy surface is to
go underground.
You can walk through the
sewers and the bone-lined
catacombs, explore the
foundations of the city’s
greatest religious
monument, and of course
you can travel on the Métro
system. The rubber-
wheeled ride may be soft
and the service dependable
but this isn’t smooth,
insulated travel. Down here
you’re rubbing shoulder to
shoulder with real, working
Paris.
The Catacombs
The fascinating, tunnel-like quarries
underneath Montparnasse are lined with
literally millions of human bones,
evacuated from the overcrowded Paris
cemeteries in the nineteenth century.
Contents Ideas
57
Crypte archéologique
This atmospheric site beneath the square of
Notre-Dame reveals remains of medieval
and Gallo-Roman houses, as well as the old
cathedral.
Sewers
A fascinating underground exhibition on a
little-known, but vital side of the city’s life.
쑺 P.138 쑺 EIFFEL TOWER AREA 쒀
The Métro
There’s no better way to get around the city
than by the fast and efficient Métro. The
stations are stylish too.
쑺 P.203 쑺 ESSENTIALS 쑽
Contents Ideas
58
Generations of
Artistic and literary Paris Musée du Montparnasse
Montparnasse was the artistic Bohemia
writers and artists of the early twentieth century, and the
from all over Europe Musée de Montparnasse holds excellent
exhibitions of the era’s great artists.
and the Americas
have made their
home in Paris, for a
time at least, and
quarters such as
Montmartre,
Montparnasse and
St-Germain are
incredibly evocative
of particular artistic
eras. For the visitor,
there’s a peculiar
thrill about warming
the same café seat
Shakespeare & Co
as Picasso or The original Shakespeare & Co that
Hemingway, though published Joyce’s Ulysses was over on rue
de l’Odéon, but this is still a superb
today’s prices mean you’re English-language bookshop and literary
more likely to be sitting meeting place.
next to a successful
publisher than a penniless
novelist. For the latter,
you’ll have to go to the
classic Left Bank
bookshop, Shakespeare &
Co, where the staff all
seem to be looking for
Parisian inspiration.
Contents Ideas
59
Montmartre
Le Select Before Montparnasse there was
Unlike its rivals, Le Select hasn’t gone down Montmartre, and this most romantic of
the oysters-and-champagne route, and it quarters still attracts visitors eager to see
preserves a strong flavour of the arty pre- the streets and squares made famous by
war years, if not the prices. Picasso, Toulouse-Lautrec and others.
쑺 P.147 쑺 MONTPARNASSE 쒀 쑺 P.153 쑺 MONTMARTRE AND 쒀
NORTHERN PARIS
Café Flore
The classic existentialist haunt is now more
fashion mecca than philosophical talking
shop, but it remains a Paris institution.
쑺 P.134 쑺 ST-GERMAIN 쑸
Musée Carnavalet
Proust wrote most of his great novel, A la
recherche du temps perdu, cocooned in his
cork-lined bedroom, now reconstructed at
the Musée Carnavalet.
Contents Ideas
60
Paris views
From on high, Paris
looks like a sea of
nineteenth-century
mansion buildings,
their pale stone
facades turning
creamy-golden in
the sun. The long
boulevards look like
leafy canyons and the
parks like great green
pools, but it’s the
cemeteries that stand out
most of all, studded with Georges, Pompidou Centre
pale stone graves that Eating is very much a secondary affair
here – it’s the stunning view of the Paris
could almost be miniature rooftops that’s the real draw.
apartment blocks. There 쑺 P.103 쑺 BEAUBOURG AND 쒀
LES HALLES
are no skyscrapers to hide
the old city centre, so it’s
easy to pick out the great
landmarks, from the towers
of Notre-Dame and the
giant sculpted swathe of
the Louvre to the
multicoloured pipes and
tubes of the Pompidou
Centre.
Sacré-Cœur
The steps of the Sacré-Cœur are famously
romantic, with Paris spread out below you
to the south, and the sun full on your face.
NORTHERN PARIS
Contents Ideas
61
Parc de Belleville
A little out of the way, but worth a trek for
the splendid views of the city afforded by Eiffel Tower
the park’s heights. The view from the Eiffel Tower is especially
spectacular at night when the whole tower
is lit up from within, and the searchlight
sweeps the skies above.
쑺 P.136 쑺 EIFFEL TOWER AREA 쒀
Arc de Triomphe
Views from the top are best towards dusk
on a sunny day when the marble of the
Grande Arche de la Défense sparkles in the
setting sun and the Louvre is bathed in
warm light.
쑺 P.79 쑺 THE CHAMPS ELYSEES
AND TUILERIES 쑽
Tour Montparnasse
The vista from the tower-top helipad is
stunning, and you can have a drink in the
panoramic 56th-floor restaurant afterwards.
쑺 P.142 쑺 MONTPARNASSE 쑸
Contents Ideas
62
In the second half of
Medieval Paris St-Etienne-du-Mont
At St-Etienne-du-Mont you can see an
the nineteenth extraordinary clash between the flamboy-
century, Baron ant Gothic style and the Renaissance
architecture of the sixteenth century.
Haussmann
flattened Paris’s
slums to clear space
for the handsome
boulevards and
grand apartment
blocks that now
define the cityscape,
destroying much of the
city’s medieval patrimony
in the process. The
notoriously filthy, narrow
medieval streets have
completely disappeared –
though the touristy area
around rue de la Huchette
preserves something of the
Musée National du
old layout – but a few Moyen Age
grander monuments have Set in a fine Renaissance mansion,
Paris’s Museum of the Middle Ages
survived. The obvious place houses all manner of objets d’art
to go is Notre-Dame including: the captivating tapestry
series of The Lady and the Unicorn.
cathedral, but there are 쑺 P.118 쑺 QUARTIER LATIN 쑽
other, equally beautiful
things to see, especially in
the historic Quartier Latin.
Contents Ideas
63
The Sorbonne
In medieval times Paris was famous
throughout Europe for its university colleges,
based on the hilltop on the Seine’s left bank.
Of these, the Sorbonne is still there.
Sainte-Chapelle
The Sainte-Chapelle, with its stunning
stained-glass windows, is one of the jewels
of the Middle Ages.
Conciergerie
The Conciergerie’s impressive Gothic halls
are among the few surviving vestiges of the
original palace that once stood on the Ile de
la Cité.
Contents Ideas
Contents Ideas
Places
Contents Places
Places
Contents Places
67
The Islands
There’s no better place to start a tour of Paris than with
its two river islands, Ile de la Cité, the city’s ancient
PLACES The Islands

core, and charming, village-like Ile St-Louis.
The Ile de la Cité is where the nineteenth century by
Paris began. It was settled in Baron Haussmann, Napoleon
around 300 BC by a Celtic tribe, III’s Préfet de la Seine (a post
the Parisii, and in 52 BC was equivalent to mayor of Paris).
overrun by Julius Caesar’s troops. Some ninety streets were
The Romans called the settle- destroyed and in their place
ment Lutetia Parisiorum and were raised four vast
turned it into an administrative Neoclassical edifices: the
centre, building a palace-fortress Tribunal de Commerce; the
at the western end of the Île de Hôtel Dieu; the Préfecture de
la Cité. In the tenth century the Police; and an extension to the
Frankish kings transformed this Palais de Justice.The few cor-
fortress into a splendid palace, of ners of the island that escaped
which the Sainte-Chapelle and Haussmann’s attentions include
the Conciergerie prison sur- the leafy square du Vert-
vive today. Galant and charming place
At the other end of the island Dauphine.
they erected the great cathedral The smaller Ile St-Louis is
of Notre-Dame. It takes some prime strolling territory. Unlike
stretch of the imagination today its larger neighbour, it has no
to picture what this medieval heavyweight sights; rather the
settlement must have looked island’s charm lies in its hand-
like, for most of it was erased in some ensemble of austerely
PONT NEUF
Contents Places
68
Châtelet
M AV E VICTORIA
QUAI D E GES V R ES
ME GIS SER IE
PONT NOTRE
QU AI DE LA
M Pont Neuf
The Islands PLACES
DAME
RSE
A CO
PONT NEUF
ÎLE DE LA CITÉ É NEUF QUAI DE L

U MARCH
BD DU PALAIS
G E QUAI D Conciergerie PL.
RUE DE
H O R LO LÉPINE
D E L'
QUAI Cité M Hôtel
SQ DU PL DU
VERT-GALANT PONT NEUF 2 PL Palais de Justice RUE DE LUTÈCE Dieu
LA CITÉ
DAUPHINE
Crypte
PONT AU CHA
PONT
NEUF
QUAI Préfecture Archéol-

DES Ste de Police R ogique
EATING & ORFÈVRES Chapelle
DRINKING PL DU
NGE
PARVIS-
Brasserie de I’Isle QU
AI NOTRE-DAME
DES
PONT ST-
Sant Louis 1
MICHEL
GR
PONT
PETIT
AND
Taverne Henri IV 2 S-AU
GUST
St-Michel-
Nos Ancêtres les INS Notre-
RUE GRANDS- PL Q U AI ST- MI C HE L R Dame
Gaulois 4 AUGUSTINS ST-MICHEL
Le Relais de l’Île 3 St-Michel M
beautiful seventeenth-century Henri is commemorated with

houses, tree-lined quais and nar- a stately equestrian statue
row streets, harbouring restau- halfway across.
rants, art galleries and gift shops.
For centuries the Ile St-Louis Square du Vert-Galant
was nothing but swampy pas- Enclosed within the triangular
tureland, a haunt of lovers, duel- “stern” of the island, the square
lists and miscreants on the run, du Vert-Galant is a tranquil,
until in the seventeenth-century tree-lined garden and a popular
the real-estate developer, haunt of lovers.The square takes
Christophe Marie, had the its name (a “Vert-Galant” is a
bright idea of filling it with ele- “green” or “lusty” gentleman)
gant mansions. One of the finest from the nickname given to
is the Hôtel Lauzun, which Henri IV, whose amorous
became for a while a favourite exploits were legendary.
meeting place of bohemian
writers and artists in the nine- Place Dauphine
teenth century. Red-brick seventeenth-century
houses flank the entrance to
Pont Neuf place Dauphine, one of the
Despite its name, the Pont Neuf city’s most secluded and attrac-
is the city’s oldest surviving tive squares, lined with venera-
bridge, built in 1607 by Henri ble town houses.The noise of
IV, one of the city’s first great traffic recedes here, likely to be
town planners. A graceful stone replaced by nothing more intru-
construction with twelve arch- sive than the gentle tap of
es, the bridge links the western boules being played in the shade
tip of the island with both of the chestnuts.
banks of the river. It was the
first in Paris to be made of The Sainte-Chapelle
stone rather than wood, hence Entrance on bd du Palais. Daily:
the name. March–Oct 9.30am–6pm; Nov–Feb
Contents Places
A
69
RF
RUE LOUIS
PHILIPPE
R G. L'ASNIER
RU
EF
HÔTEL St-Gervais RUE DES IG
UI
BARRES ER
DE VILLE St-Protais
QUAI DE L’HÔTE L DE VILLE
R UE D E L'H ÔTE L DE
V ILLE Hôtel-de-
Pont M Sens
Marie
RUE D'ARCOLE
QUAI DES CÉL
PLACES The Islands

ESTINS
QUAI DE L'HÔTEL DE VILLE
PONT LOUIS-
PONT MARIE
River Sei
PHILIPPE
ne
QUA
I A
RD UX
URSINES FLE
UR QUAI DE BOURBON QUAI D'ANJOU
S S Hôtel
Librarie Lauzun
PONT D’ARCOLE
RUE Pylones L’Epicerie
R DES 2 PONTS
CHA 1 Ulysse
NO
IN RUE ST LOUIS
EN L'ILE
UIS Berthillon
ES
LO 3 4
SE
T
TS
RUE DU CLOITRE-NOTRE-D
AME P ON Î L E S T- L O U I S St-Louis
Cathédrale de Mémorial de en-L'Île
Notre-Dame la Déportation QUAI D E BE THU NE
LA TOURNELLE
QUA S
SQ JEAN I D'ORLEAN
PONT DE
XXIII
L'ARCHEVACHE
River Seine
PONT DE
PONT AU
DOUBLE
QUAI DE MO
NTEBELLO 0 250 m
SQ R
VIVIANI
St-Julian-
le Pauvre
10am–5pm. e6.10, combined admis- reds of the stained glass dapple

sion to the Conciergerie e8. The the interior, giving the impres-
slender spire of the Sainte- sion of being surrounded by
Chapelle soars high above the myriad brilliant butterflies.The
Palais de Justice buildings. windows, two-thirds of which
Though damaged in the are original (the others are from
Revolution, it was sensitively the nineteenth-century restora-
restored in the mid-nineteenth
SAINTE-CHAPELLE
century and remains one of the
finest achievements of French
High Gothic, renowned for its
exquisite stained-glass windows.
The building was constructed
by Louis IX between 1242 and
1248 to house a collection of
holy relics, including Christ’s
crown of thorns and a fragment
of the True Cross, bought from
the bankrupt empire of
Byzantium. It actually consists of
two chapels: the rather dark
lower chapel, with its star-
painted ceiling, was where the
servants worshipped, while the
upper chapel was reserved for
the court.The latter is a truly
dazzling sight: its walls seem to
be made almost entirely of mag-
nificent stained glass, held up by
deceptively fragile-looking stone
columns.The glowing blues and
Contents Places
70
tion), tell virtually the entire tours: in French Mon–Fri noon & Sat
story of the Bible, beginning on 2pm; in English Wed noon; 60–90min;
the north side with Genesis and free; gather at the welcome desk near
various other books of the Old the entrance. One of the master-
Testament, continuing with the pieces of the Gothic age, the
The Islands PLACES
Passion of Christ (east end) and Cathédrale de Notre-Dame

ending with the Apocalypse in rears up from the Ile de la Cité
the rose window. like a ship moored by huge fly-
ing buttresses. It was among the
The Conciergerie first of the great Gothic cathe-
Entrance on quai de l’Horloge. Daily: drals built in northern France
March–Oct 9.30am–6pm; Nov–Feb and one of the most ambitious,
10am–5pm. e6.10, combined ticket its nave reaching an unprece-
with Sainte-Chapelle e8. Located dented 33m. Built on the site of
within the Palais de Justice the Merovingian cathedral of
complex, the Conciergerie is Saint-Etienne, Notre-Dame was
Paris’s oldest prison, where begun in 1160 and completed
Marie-Antoinette and, in their around 1345. In the seventeenth
turn, the leading figures of the and eighteenth centuries it fell
Revolution were incarcerated into decline, suffering its worst
before execution. It was turned depredations during the
into a prison – and put in the Revolution when the frieze of
charge of a “concierge”, or Old Testament kings on the
steward – after Etienne Marcel’s facade was damaged by enthusi-
uprising in 1358 led Charles V asts who mistook them for the
to decamp to the greater securi- kings of France.
ty of the Louvre. It was only in the 1820s that
The Conciergerie’s entry on the cathedral was at last given a
quai de l’Horloge is flanked by much-needed restoration, a
two fine medieval towers – the task entrusted to the great
one on the right, dating from architect-restorer Viollet-le-
the thirteenth century, was Duc, who carried out a
known as the Bonbec tower, so
named because this was where CONCIERGERIE
prisoners were tortured and

reduced to a bonbec (“babbler”).
Inside are several splendidly
vaulted Gothic halls, among the
few surviving vestiges of the
original Capetian palace.
Elsewhere a number of rooms
and prisoners’ cells, including
Marie-Antoinette’s cell, have
been reconstructed to show
what they might have been like
at the time of the French
Revolution.
Cathédrale de Notre-Dame
Cathedral: daily 8am–6.45pm, Sun
closes at 7.45pm; free. Towers:
April–Sept 9.30am–6.45pm,
Oct–March 10am–5pm; e6.10. Guided
Contents Places
71
PLACES The Islands

NOTRE-DAME
thorough – some would say darkness of the nave and the

too thorough – renovation, light falling on the first great
remaking much of the statuary clustered pillars of the choir. It’s
on the facade (the originals can the end walls of the transepts
be seen in the Musée National that admit all this light, being
du Moyen Age; see p.118) and nearly two-thirds glass, including
adding the steeple and baleful- two magnificent rose windows
looking gargoyles, which you coloured in imperial purple.
can see close up if you brave These, the vaulting and the
the ascent of the towers. soaring shafts reaching to the
The cathedral’s facade is one springs of the vaults, are all defi-
of its most impressive exterior nite Gothic elements, while
features; the Romanesque influ- there remains a strong sense of
ence is still visible, not least in Romanesque in the stout round
its solid H-shape, but the over- pillars of the nave and the gen-
riding impression is one of eral sense of four-squareness.
lightness and grace, created in
part by the delicate filigree The kilomètre zéro
work of the central rose win- On the pavement by the west
dow and the gallery above. door of Notre-Dame is a spot,
There are some magnificent marked by a bronze star, known
carvings over the portals; the as kilomètre zéro, from which
oldest are those over the right all main-road distances in
portal depicting the Virgin France are calculated.
enthroned, and below, episodes
from the life of Saint Anne The crypte archéologique
(Mary’s mother) and the life of Place du Parvis-Notre-Dame. Tues–Sun
Christ. 10am–6pm. e3.30. The atmospher-
Inside, you’re struck by the ically lit crypte archéologique is
dramatic contrast between the a large excavated area under the
Contents Places
72
place du Parvis
revealing the remains
of the original
cathedral, as well as
vestiges of the streets
The Islands PLACES
and houses that once

clustered around
Notre-Dame: most
are medieval, but
some date as far
back as Gallo-
Roman times.
Le Mémorial de la
Déportation
Daily 10am–noon &
2–5pm. Free. Scarcely
visible above LE RELAIS DE L’ISLE
ground, the stark and moving

Mémorial de la Déportation is Shops
the symbolic tomb of the
200,000 French who died in Berthillon
Nazi concentration camps 31 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile. Wed–Sun
during World War II – 10am–8pm. Long queues form
Resistance fighters, Jews and for these exquisite ice creams
forced labourers among them. and sorbets that come in all
Stairs hardly shoulder-wide sorts of unusual fruity flavours,
descend into a space like a such as rhubarb.
prison yard and then into a
crypt, off which is a long, L’Epicerie
narrow, stifling corridor, its 51 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile. Daily
walls covered in thousands of 11am–8pm. Beautifully packaged
points of light representing vinegars, oils, jams and mus-
the dead. Above the exit are tards, with some unusual
the words “Forgive. Do not flavourings such as orange- and
forget.” rosemary-flavoured white-wine
vinegar from Champagne.
Hôtel Lauzun
Pre-arranged group visits possible on Librairie Ulysse
t 01.42.76.57.99. The Hôtel 26 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile. Tues–Sat
Lauzun, built in 1657, has an 2–8pm. A tiny bookshop, piled
intact interior, complete with from floor to ceiling with new
splendid trompe l’oeil decora- and secondhand travel books
tions. In the 1840s, it was the and run by a friendly English-
meeting place for the speaking owner.
Haschischins club, whose mem-
bers included Baudelaire, Balzac Pylônes
and Manet; as the club’s name 57 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile. Daily 11am
suggests, hashish was handed –7.30pm. A gift shop selling weird
round – apparently in the form and wacky knick-knacks and
of a green jelly. gadgets, including inflatable fruit
bowls, grasshopper can crushers
and sparkly resin jewellery.
Contents Places
73
chicken with honey. It’s the
Restaurants convivial ambience that makes
this place special: friendly serv-
Brasserie de l’Ile St-Louis ice, the pianist tinkling away and
55 quai de Bourbon. Thurs–Tues the chef occasionally popping
PLACES The Islands

noon–midnight. A friendly out from the kitchen to join in.
brasserie with a rustic, dark-
wood interior and a sunny ter-
race, serving moderately priced
Alsatian cuisine such as sauer- Bars
kraut with ham and sausage.
Taverne Henri IV
Nos Ancêtres les Gaulois 13 place du Pont-Neuf. Mon–Fri
39 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile 11.30am–3.30pm & 6–9pm, Sat noon–
t 01.46.33.66.07. Daily 7pm–2am, 4pm; closed Aug. An old-style wine
plus Sun noon–4pm. A veritable bar, serving reasonably priced
Gaulois (think Asterix and wine and snacks, buzziest at
Obelix) theme park, with rustic lunchtime when lawyers from the
tables and musty animal skins, nearby Palais de Justice drop in.
this restaurant offers a copious
all-you-can-eat-and-drink buf-
fet.There’s also a children’s set
meal. Live music
Le Relais de l’Ile Sainte-Chapelle
37 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile Tickets e16–25. t 01.42.77.65.65;
t 01.46.34.72.34. Mon & Wed–Sun bookings also at any FNAC (see
noon–2pm & 7.30–11pm. A cosy, p.166) store or Virgin Megastore.
candlelit jazz-restaurant serving Classical music concerts are held
decent food, with mains such as in the splendid surroundings of
rabbit in prune sauce and lemon the chapel more or less daily.
LIVE JAZZ ON THE ILE ST-LOUIS
Contents Places
74
The Louvre
The Louvre is one of the world’s truly great museums.
Opened in 1793, during the Revolution, it soon acquired
The Louvre PLACES
the largest art collection on earth, thanks to Napoleon’s

conquests. Today, it houses paintings, sculpture and
precious art objects, covering everything from Ancient
Egyptian jewellery to the beginnings of Impressionism.
Even if you’re not venturing inside, the palace itself is
breathtaking, cutting a grand classical swathe right
through the centre of the city.
Quite separate from the Louvre laid, and from then on almost
proper, but still within the every sovereign added to the
palace, are three museums under Louvre, leaving the palace a sur-
the aegis of the Union prisingly harmonious building.
Centrale des Arts Décoratifs, Even with the addition in 1989
dedicated to fashion and tex- of the initially controversial glass
tiles, decorative arts and adver- Pyramide in the Cour
tising. Napoleon – an extraordinary
leap of imagination conceived by
The palace the Chinese-born architect I. M.
For centuries the site of the Pei – the overall effect of the
French court, the palace was Louvre is of a quintessentially
originally little more than a feu- French grandeur and symmetry.
dal fortress, begun by Philippe-
Auguste in 1200. In fact, it wasn’t Painting
until the reign of François I, in By far the largest of the muse-
the first flowering of the um’s collections is its paintings.
Renaissance, that the foundations The early Italians are perhaps
of the present-day building were the most interesting, among
C H EL LE
PE
RA
PLACE
0 100 m ANDRÉ- Palais Royal N
MALRAUX R U E S T- H O N O R É
Union Centrale PLACE DU Palais Royal/
PALAIS ROYAL
des Arts Décoratifs M Museé du Louvre
RUE DE RIVOLI
RUE DE RIVOLI
R I C H E L I E U M
RICHELIEU
PASSAGE
Louvre-Rivoli
Y
S U L L
RUE DE L’AMIRA
TER RAS S E DES TUILER IES
din Jardin
du
Cour
Carrousel Carré
Arc du
s PLACE DU
L DE COLIGNY
Carrousel CARROUSEL
Pyramide &
Main Entrance
S U L L Y
ries
PONT DES
Porte
ARTS
des Lions
D E N O N
OUVRE
QUAI DU L
QUAI DES TUILERIES Riv er Sei ne
ntrances
Contents Places
75
Francis of Assisi, and Fra
Angelico’s Coronation of the
Virgin. Fifteenth- to seven-
teenth-century Italian paintings
line the length of the Grande
PLACES The Louvre

Galerie. Outstanding works here
are Leonardo’s Virgin and child
with St Anne and Virgin of the
Rocks, several Raphael master-
pieces, and Mantegna’s
Crucifixion. Large-scale nine-
teenth-century French works
are displayed in the parallel suite
of rooms, among them the epic
Coronation of Napoleon I, by
David, Ingres’ languorous nude,
La Grande Odalisque, and
Géricault’s harrowing Raft of the
Medusa, which depicts a notori-
ous incident in which ship-
wrecked sailors on a raft turned
THE LOUVRE PALACE
to cannibalism.
A good place to start a circuit
them Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona of French paintings is with
Lisa. If you want to get near the master of French Classicism,
her, go first or last thing in the Poussin; his profound themes,
day. Other highlights of the taken from antiquity, the Bible
Italian collection include two and mythology, together with
complete Botticelli frescoes, his harmonious style, were to
Giotto’s Stigmatization of St influence generations of artists.
Visiting the Louvre

Mon & Wed 9am–9.45pm, Thurs–Sun 9am–6pm. E7.50, or E5 after 3pm & Sun,
free first Sun of the month except public hols. Same-day readmission allowed.
w www.louvre.fr.
Tickets can be bought in advance on t 08.92.68.36.22; online; or from branch-
es of FNAC and Virgin Megastore, as found everywhere in Paris. The main
entrance is via the Pyramide; if the queues look too long, then try the entrance
directly under the Arc du Carrousel, which has secondary access tunnels leading
from 99 rue de Rivoli and from the line #1 Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre Métro
stop. The Porte des Lions, on the quai des Tuileries, provides another quick way
into the museum. Ticket holders can enter from the Passage Richelieu, which
has views of the dramatically glazed-over sculpture courtyards.
Due to the sheer volume of exhibits (not to mention visitors), even if you spent
the entire day here you’d see only a fraction of the collection, so consider confin-
ing yourself to a single section of the museum. The Denon wing is very popular: as
well as the Mona Lisa, it houses all of the Italian paintings, some tremendous
French nineteenth-century canvases, and the great Italian and Classical sculptures.
Rewarding and relatively peaceful alternatives are the grand chronologies of
French painting and sculpture, or a stroll through the sensual collection of Objets
d’Art. Wherever you’re headed, pick up a free floor plan – essential for navigation.
Contents Places
76
You’ll need a healthy appetite matic use of chiaroscuro,
for Classicism in the next suite Murillo’s tender Beggar Boy, and
of rooms, but there are some the Goya portraits. Interspersed
arresting portraits, and the throughout the painting section
paintings of Georges de la Tour are rooms dedicated to the
The Louvre PLACES
are superbly idiosyncratic.When Louvre’s impressive collection of

you move into the rather less prints and drawings, exhibited
severe eighteenth century, the by rotation.
more intimate paintings of
Watteau come as a relief, as do Antiquities
Chardin’s intense still lifes. In The Oriental Antiquities and
the later part of the collection, Arts of Islam category covers
the chilly wind of Neoclassicism the Mesopotamian, Sumerian,
blows through the paintings of Babylonian, Assyrian and
Gros, Gérard, Prud’hon, David Phoenician civilizations, and the
and Ingres, contrasting with the art of ancient Persia, India and
more sentimental style that Spain. One of the collection’s
begins with Greuze and contin- most important exhibits is the
ues into the Romanticism of Code of Hammurabi, a basalt stele
Géricault and Delacroix.The covered in Akkadian script set-
final rooms take in Corot and ting down King Hammurabi’s
the Barbizon school, the precur- rules of conduct for his subjects.
sors of Impressionism.The The Egyptian Antiquities
Louvre’s collection of French collection starts with the atmos-
painting stops at 1848, a date pheric crypt of the Sphinx.
picked up by the Musée Everyday life is illustrated
d’Orsay (see p.132). through cooking accessories,
In the Dutch and Spanish jewellery, the principles of
collections, works worth linger- hieroglyphics, musical instru-
ing over are Rembrandt’s superb ments, sarcophagi and a host of
Supper at Emmaus, with its dra- mummified cats.The collection
THE COUR MARLY, RICHELIEU WING
Contents Places
77
rated in the style of Louis-
Philippe, the last king of France.
Numerous rooms have been
partially re-created in the style
of a particular epoch, and walk-
PLACES The Louvre

ing through the complete
chronology, where suites are
often devoid of other visitors,
gives a powerful sense of the
evolution of aesthetic taste at its
most refined and opulent.
Towards the end, the circuit
passes through the breathtaking
apartments of Napoleon III’s
minister of state.
Sculpture
COUR NAPOLEON
The Sculpture section covers
the entire development of the
continues with the development art in France from the
of Egyptian art; highlights Romanesque to Rodin, all in
include the expressive Seated the Richelieu wing, and Italian
Scribe (c.2500 BC) and the huge and northern European sculp-
bust of Amenophis IV ture in the Denon wing, includ-
(1365–1349 BC). ing Michelangelo’s Slaves,
The biggest crowd-pullers in designed for the tomb of Pope
the museum after the Mona Lisa Julius II.The huge glass-covered
are found in the Greek and courtyards of the Richelieu
Roman Antiquities section: wing – the cour Marly with the
the dramatic Winged Victory of Marly Horses, which once
Samothrace, and the late-second- graced place de la Concorde,
century BC Venus de Milo, strik- and the cour Puget with Puget’s
ing a classic model’s pose. Her Milon de Crotone as the centre-
antecedents are all on display, piece – are very impressive, if a
too, from the graceful marble bit overwhelming.
head of the Cycladic Idol and the The half-dozen rooms of the
delightful Dame d’Auxerre to the Pavillon des Sessions house stat-
Classical perfection of the uary from Africa, Asia,
Athlete of Benevento.The Roman Oceania and the Americas.
section includes some wonderful
frescoes from Pompeii and Union Centrale des
Herculaneum. Arts Décoratifs
107 rue de Rivoli. Tues–Fri 11am–6pm,
Objets d’Art Sat & Sun 10am–6pm. e7. w www
The vast Objets d’Art section .ucad.fr. The other museums
presents the finest tapestries, housed in the Louvre under the
ceramics, jewellery and furniture umbrella organization Union
commissioned by France’s most Centrale des Arts Décoratifs can
wealthy and influential patrons, be among the city’s most inno-
beginning with the rather pious vative.
Middle Ages section and contin- The Musée de la Mode et
uing through 81 relentlessly du Textile holds high-quality
superb rooms to a salon deco- temporary exhibitions demon-
Contents Places
78
contemporary collections dis-
play works by French, Italian
and Japanese designers, includ-
ing some great examples of the
work of Philippe Starck.
The Louvre PLACES
Cafés
Café Richelieu
First floor, Richelieu wing. The
soigné decor makes this the
most prim and elegant of the
Louvre’s cafés, with full meals
available as well as drinks and
snacks.
VIEW FROM INSIDE THE PYRAMIDE

Café Denon
Lower ground floor, Denon wing. It’s
strating the most brilliant and worth seeking out this cosy lit-
cutting-edge of Paris fashions tle tearoom and restaurant, hid-
from all eras, such as Jackie den away among the Louvre’s
Kennedy’s famous 1960s dresses. vaults.
On the top floor, the Musée
de la Publicité shows off its Café Mollien
collection of advertising posters First floor, Denon wing. The busiest
through cleverly themed, tem- of the Louvre’s cafés has a prime
porary exhibitions.The space is position near the Grande
appropriately trendy – half Galerie, with huge windows
exposed brickwork and steel giving onto a terrace (in sum-
panelling, and half crumbling mer) overlooking the Pyramide.
Louvre finery.
SCULPTURAL DETAIL, LOUVRE PALACE
The relatively traditional
Musée des Arts Décoratifs
seems something of the odd
man out, though its eclectic col-
lection of art and superbly craft-
ed furniture fits the Union
Centrale’s “design” theme.The
medieval and Renaissance
rooms show off curiously
shaped and beautifully carved
chairs, dressers and tables, reli-
gious paintings, and Venetian
glass.There are also some won-
derful tapestries – including the
delightful late-fifteenth-century
Le Berger, depicting a shepherd
surrounded by a very woolly
flock – and a room decorated
and furnished entirely as a late-
medieval bedroom. Changing
Contents Places
79
The Champs-Elysées
and Tuileries
PLACES The Champs-Elysées and Tuileries

The breathtakingly ambitious Champs-Elysées is part
of a grand, nine-kilometre axis, often referred to as the
“Voie Triomphale”, or Triumphal Way, that extends from
the Louvre at the heart of the city to the Défense busi-
ness district in the west. Combining imperial pomp and
supreme elegance, it offers impressive vistas along its
entire length and incorporates some of the city’s most
famous landmarks – the place de la Concorde,
Tuileries gardens and the Arc de Triomphe. The
whole ensemble is so regular and geometrical it looks
as though it might have been laid out by a single town
planner rather than successive kings, emperors and
presidents, all keen to add their stamp and promote
French power and prestige.
The Champs-Elysées Crowning the Champs-Elysées,
Scene of the annual Bastille Day the Arc de Triomphe sits
procession, the Champs-Elysées is imposingly in the middle of
the nation’s best-known avenue. place Charles de Gaulle, better
Its heyday was during the Second known as l’Etoile (“star”) on
Empire when members of the account of the twelve avenues,
haute bourgeoisie built themselves laid out by Haussmann, radiat-
splendid mansions along its length ing from it. Modelled on the
and fashionable society frequented ancient Roman triumphal arch-
the avenue’s cafés and theatres.
Nowadays, tree-lined and broad, it L’ETOILE AND THE CHAMPS-ELYSEES
looks at its most impressive from a

distance, thanks to its constant
traffic and rather anonymous food
and retail outlets.Yet some of the
avenue’s former glitz lives on at
places such as the Lido cabaret
and Fouquet’s brasserie (which
hosts the annual César film
awards), while fresh glamour is
constantly being injected by chic
designer shops, such as Louis
Vuitton, and new, fashionable
restaurants and bars in the streets
that spar off the avenue.
The Arc de Triomphe

Daily: April–Sept 10am–11pm;
Oct–March 10am–10.30pm, e7.
Contents Places
80 AV D
E ME SSI NE
RU
Musée N
R UE Jacquemart AN
S M Miromesnil
AV DE WAGR A M
DE
CO André US LA
M Ternes UR 1 HA M
CE BD E
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Miromesnil M
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St-Alexandre-
E
Nevski E
VR
RUE DU HIE
FAUBOU NT
N Les Caves RG-SAIN
T- H O N O
.D
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The Champs-Elysées and Tuileries PLACES
Taillevent RÉ R
M AT I G N O N
Centre Nationale RUE St-Philippe
RUE JEAN MERMOZ

E
CH de la Photographie D'A
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Arc de Gaulle Étoile 7
Triomphe R ROND
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CHARLES George V Roosevelt ÉLYSÉES
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V
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NT
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Découverte
RUE
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Palais
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de Tokyo
E
es, this imperial behemoth was reliefs is François Rude’s

built by Napoleon as a homage Marseillaise, in which a terrifying
to the armies of France and is Amazon-type figure personify-
engraved with the names of 660 ing the Revolution charges for-
generals and numerous French ward with a sword, her face
battles.The best of the exterior contorted in a fierce rallying
cry. A quiet reminder of the less
THE ARC DE TRIOMPHE
glorious side of war is the tomb
of the unknown soldier
placed beneath the arch and
marked by an eternal flame that
is stoked up every evening by
war veterans.The climb up to
the top is well worth it for the
panoramic views.
The Grand Palais

Galeries nationales du Grand Palais:
daily except Tues 10am–8pm, Wed till
10pm. e9. w www.rmn.fr/galeries
nationalesdugrandpalais. Rising
above the greenery at the lower
end of the Champs-Elysées is
the Grand Palais, a gigantic
building with a grandiose
Neoclassical exterior, glass roofs
Contents Places
M R
81
QU AT
RU E DU M
E
TI D R CO
LA PA IX
BO
E AR
E EV
A
ÉP
IN UL
QU
BD
MA E BO
RO
RU E DE
La Madeleine ELEIN
AV
E LE
RU E DE RIC
RU SH
ER
DE
BE
S AD CHAMPS
E
M RUE DES PETITE
L’ O
RUE DE SURENE LE
PE
MI
Madeleine
RUE DURAS
SA ES
D’ANGLAS
RA
RO
IES
US D
HE LIE U
PL
RUE CAMBON
SA RUE
ME
PL

MADELEINE
SN
VENDOME
R O YA L E
M
IL
RUE Pyramides
DU
AV DE MARIGNY
F A UB O UR G-
SAI NT-H ON OR É
RUE DE L’ELYSEE
RUE SAI
RUE BOISSY
UK NT -HON
Hôtel ORE
Embassy RUE DU MONT THABOR
Crillon Hôtel de
US
Palais de Embassy RUE la Marine Maria
l’Élysée NUE GABRIEL M Luisa R U E D E R I V O L I M
AVE M Tuileries
Concorde Jeu de
Arc du P
PL Obélisque Paume 8 Carrousel CAR
CLEMENCEAU Jardin des
Ch. Élysées
M Tuileries
Clemenceau Petit PLACE DE LA
Palais CONCORDE Palais du
Grand Orangerie Louvre
AV D
AV WURCHILL
Palais E
CH
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LA
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Université
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ALE
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Nationale M N
and exuberant flying statuary, biology, earth sciences and

created for the 1900 Exposition astronomy, and explore pressing
Universelle.Though part of the issues such as climate change
building is undergoing renova- and biotechnology.There’s also
tion, its exhibition space, the an excellent planetarium.
Galeries nationales, remains
unaffected and is Paris’s prime The Petit Palais
venue for major retrospectives The Petit Palais houses the
of artists such as Chagall, Musée des Beaux-Arts, which
Gauguin and Matisse. comes out of a major revamp at
the end of 2004 freeing up more
Palais de la Découverte of its gallery space for its exten-
Main entrance on av Franklin D. sive holdings.The collection,
Roosevelt. Tues–Sat 9.30am–6pm, Sun encompassing every period from
& hols 10am–7pm. Museum E5.60, the Renaissance to the 1920s,
museum and planetarium E8.70. includes some real gems, such as
w www.palais-decouverte.fr.
Occupy-
ing the west wing of the Grand
Palais is Paris’s original science
museum, dating from the late
1930s. It does an excellent job
of bringing science alive – using
audiovisual material, models and
interactive exhibits.The exhibi-
tions cover chemistry, physics,
Contents Places
82
Monet’s Sunset at Lavacourt and
Boudin’s Gust of Wind at Le
Havre. There’s also fantasy jew-
ellery of the Art Nouveau peri-
od, effete eighteenth-century
furniture and vast canvases

recording Paris’s street battles
during the 1830 and 1848
revolutions.
Musée Jacquemart-André
158 bd Haussmann. Daily 10am–6pm.
E8. w www.musee-jacquemart PLACE DE LA CONCORDE
-andre.com. The Musée
Jacquemart-André is set in a collection. Almost as compelling
magnificent nineteenth-century as the splendid interior and
hôtel particulier (mansion), hung paintings is the insight gleaned
with the superb artworks accu- into grand nineteenth-century
mulated on the travels of banker lifestyle.
Edouard André and his wife,
former society portraitist Nélie Place de la Concorde
Jacquemart. A stunning distilla- The vast place de la Concorde
tion of fifteenth- and sixteenth- has a much less peaceful history
century Italian genius, including than its name suggests. Between
works by Tiepolo, Botticelli, 1793 and 1795, some 1300 peo-
Donatello, Mantegna and ple died here beneath the
Uccello, forms the core of the Revolutionary guillotine, Louis
XVI, Marie-Antoinette, Danton
PLACE DE LA CONCORDE FROM TUILERIES
and Robespierre among them.
Today, constantly circumnavigat-
ed by traffic, the centrepiece of
the place is a stunning, gold-
tipped obelisk from the temple
of Ramses at Luxor, offered as a
favour-currying gesture by the
viceroy of Egypt in 1829. From
the centre of the square there
are sweeping vistas in all direc-
tions: the Champs-Elysées looks
particularly impressive and you
can also admire the alignment
of the Assemblée Nationale, in
the south, with the church of
the Madeleine – both sporting
identical Neoclassical facades –
at the end of rue Royale, to the
north.
Jardin des Tuileries

Daily: April–Sept 7.30am-9pm;
July–Aug 7.30am–11.45pm;
Oct–March 7.30am–7.30pm. The
Jardin des Tuileries, the formal
Contents Places
83
French garden par excellence, Jardin des Tuileries, was once a
dates back to the 1570s, when royal tennis court and later the
Catherine de Médicis had the place where French
site cleared of the medieval war- Impressionist paintings were dis-
ren of tilemakers (tuileries) to played before being transferred

make way for a palace and to the Musée d’Orsay. In a sub-
grounds. One hundred years sequent renovation, huge win-
later, Louis XIV commissioned dows were cut into the Jeu de
André Le Nôtre to redesign Paume’s classical temple walls,
them, and the results are largely allowing light to flood in, and
what you see today: straight it’s now one of the city’s best
avenues, formal flowerbeds and exhibition spaces for contempo-
splendid vistas. rary art – usually major retro-
The grand central alley is lined spectives of established artists.
with shady, clipped chestnuts and
manicured lawns, and framed at
each end by ornamental pools,
surrounded by an impressive Shops
gallery of copies of statues by the
likes of Rodin and Coysevox; Les Caves Taillevent
you can see the originals in the 199 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré. Mon
Louvre. Set in a far corner of the 2pm–8pm, Tues–Fri 9am–7.30pm.
gardens, the Orangerie, housing An offshoot of the Taillevent
a private art collection, including restaurant, this is a wine con-
eight of Monet’s giant waterlily noisseur’s paradise, with more
paintings, is currently closed for than 400,000 bottles from all
renovation. over France and abroad. Prices
start from around e5 a bottle
Jeu de Paume and there are also daily tasting
Tues 10am–9.30pm, Wed–Fri sessions.
noon–7pm, Sat & Sun 10am–7pm. E6.
The Jeu de Paume, within the Guerlain
68 av des Champs-Elysées. Mon–Sat
JARDIN DES TUILERIES
10.30am–8pm, Sun 3–7pm. A beau-
tiful belle époque boutique selling
heady perfumes from the
Guerlain range.
Maria Luisa
2 rue Cambon; menswear 38 rue du
Mont-Thabor. Mon–Sat 10.30am–7pm.
A one-stop shop for cutting-
edge designer-wear (Galliano,
Balenciaga and the like), often at
discounted prices.
Inès de la Fressange
14 av Montaigne. Mon–Sat
10am–7pm. Located on Paris’s
most exclusive shopping street,
this is Inès de la Fressange’s flag-
ship store, carrying her elegant
clothes and accessories.
Contents Places
84
one of the world’s top haute-
Cafés cuisine temples, run by star chef
Alain Ducasse; his sublime dish-
Café Véry (Dame Tartine) es are likely to revive even the
Jardin des Tuileries. Mon–Fri most jaded palate.The decor is
9.15am–7pm, Sat & Sun 9.15am– Louis XV with a modern gloss

7.30pm; closed Tues in July & Aug. and the service – as you’d
The best of a number of café- expect – is impeccable. Reckon
restaurants in the garden. Serves on e160 upwards and book
inexpensive snacks as well as well in advance.
more substantial meals.
L’Appart’
Musée Jacquemart-André 9 rue du Colisée t 01.53.75.16.34.
158 bd Haussmann. Daily 11.30am– Restaurant: daily noon–2.30pm &
5.30pm. Admire ceiling frescoes 7.30–11pm; bar daily noon to mid-
by Tiepolo while savouring fine night, Sun & Mon till 11pm. Drawing
pastries in this sumptuously a young, trendy crowd, this is a
appointed salon de thé in the stylish place, with a huge bar
Musée Jacquemart-André. downstairs and a restaurant
upstairs resembling an elegant
living room, with wood pan-
elling, fireplaces and deep-red
Restaurants fabrics. Moderately expensive,
classic French dishes.
Alain Ducasse at the Plaza-
Athénée Lasserre
Hotel Plaza-Athénée, 25 av Montaigne 17 av Franklin D. Roosevelt
t 01.53.67.65.00. Mon–Fri 1–2.30pm t 01.43.59.53.43. Mon–Fri noon–2pm
& 8–10.30pm. Reckoned to be & 7.30–10pm. A classic haute-cui-
MUSÉE JACQUEMART-ANDRÉ SALON DE THÉ
Contents Places
85
sine restaurant with a lovely belle night, Sat eve only. An elegant
époque dining room and a roof restaurant with deep-red, plush
that’s rolled back on balmy sum- interior.The excellent food
mer days. A la carte prices are includes many Belgian speciali-
expensive, though you can eat ties, such as moules frites.Three

more cheaply at lunchtime if courses cost around e30 and it’s
you opt for the set menu. best to book ahead.
Le Relais de l’Entrecôte
15 rue Marbeuf. Noon–2.30pm &
7.30–11pm. Le Relais de Bars
l’Entrecôte, which roughly trans-
lates as “Steaks R us”, has only Impala Lounge
one dish on the menu: steak and 2 rue de Berri. Daily till 4am. A
frites.This is no ordinary steak trendy, Out of Africa-themed bar,
though – the secret is in the with great atmosphere and
delicious sauce. Prices are rea- music – mostly reggae, funk and
sonable for the area. afro-jazz.
Taillevent Nirvana
15 rue Lamennais t01.44.95.15.01. 3 av Matignon. Daily till 4am. A hip
Mon–Fri 12.30–2.30pm & bar-restaurant/club with
7.30–11.30pm. One of Paris’s Indian-inspired decor where
finest gourmet restaurants.The well-known DJ Claude Challe
Provençal-influenced cuisine and guest celebrities spin the
and wine list are exceptional, discs.
the decor classy and refined.
Reckon on an average of e150
a head, excluding wine, and
book well in advance. Live music
Le Tillsit Théâtre des Champs-Elysées
14 rue de Tillsit. Daily 7am–midnight. 15 av Montaigne t 01.49.52.50.50,
A stone’s throw away from the w www.theatredeschampselysees.com.
Arc de Triomphe and sporting a Built in 1913, this historic the-
gaudy glass centrepiece, this atre, where Stravinsky premiered
otherwise unassuming brasserie his Rite of Spring, is home to the
is a locals’ favourite and fills up Orchestre National de France
quickly at lunchtime. and also hosts many internation-
al concerts and ballets.Tickets
Yvan are as cheap as e5 for a seat
1 bis rue J-Mermoz; t 01.43.59.18.40. with no view, otherwise they
Mon–Fri noon–2.30pm & 8pm–mid- range from e12 to e115.
Contents Places
86
Trocadéro
The swish little strip of the 16e arrondissement that runs
alongside the Seine is unusually thick with good muse-
Trocadéro PLACES
ums, even for Paris. Between place de l’Alma, notorious

as the scene of Princess Diana’s fatal car crash, and
place du Trocadéro, from which the area gets its name,
stretch broad, leafy and largely residential boulevards,
lined with the homes of wealthy Parisians and their
expensive little dogs. The atmosphere of the quarter isn’t
exactly lively, but the views across the river to the Eiffel
Tower and the 7e arrondissement are wonderful, especial-
ly from the terrace of the Palais de Chaillot.
Palais de Chaillot Cité de l’Architecture et du

From behind its elaborate park Patrimoine
and fountains, the sweeping arcs Palais de Chaillot. Opens 2005. The
of the Palais de Chaillot seem completion of the Cité de
designed to embrace the view l’Architecture et du Patrimoine
of the Eiffel Tower, which stands will help bring the Palais de
on the far side of the river.The Chaillot back to life.This com-
rather brutal Modernist- bined institute, library and
Classical architecture dates the museum of architecture will dis-
palace to 1937, when it was play giant-sized plaster casts
built as the showpiece of the taken from great French build-
Exposition Universelle, one of ings, designed to tell the story of
Paris’s regular trade and culture French architecture from the
jamborees. In recent years the Middle Ages through to the
palace has acquired a forlorn air, nineteenth century. More mod-
housing just a pair of low-key ern buildings will be served by
museums (see below) and the photographs, designs and origi-
stage of the radical Théâtre nal architectural models.
National de Chaillot, but the
central terrace between the Musée de l’Homme
palace’s two wings still forms a Palais de Chaillot. Mon & Wed–Sun
perfect platform for photo 9.45am–5.15pm; closed public hols. e7.
opportunities and curio-sellers. In 2002, President Chirac
robbed the Musée de l’Homme
PALAIS DE CHAILLOT of almost all of its ethnographi-
cal pieces for his giant museum
of world folk art across the river
on quai Branly. All that’s left
now are the relatively worthy
anthropological exhibits – tools,
textiles, implements, religious
artefacts – and the large collec-
tion of musical instruments,
which continue to edify school-
children and intrigue a few curi-
ous visitors.
Contents Places
87
AVE
PL
EATING & DRINKING
AVE GEORGE V
DES ETAT
UNIS
Site de Création
MAR
Galeries
Contemporaine 1 du Panthéon Musée de la
NA
Totem 2 Mode et du
CEA
Bouddhique R
IE
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PI
AV
PLACES Trocadéro
Musée
Guimet M SON
R U E D E L O N G C H A M AV DU PRESIDENT-WIL Alma M
P PL D'IENA Marceau
Musée de l’ Art
Cité de M 1 Moderne de la Liberty’s M PL DE
l’Architecture SON
Ville de Paris Flame L'ALMA
-WIL
et du Patrimoine ID ENT
RES Site de Création Palais
UP
AV
D
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de Tokyo
PONT DE
Contemporaine
L'ALMA
M Trocadéro
RK
AV
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PL DU M
PAS EBILLY
W S
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TROCADERO NE Pont de l'Alma R
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Musée de de la Marine world-renowned collection of

Palais de Chaillot. Mon & Wed–Sun Buddhist and Asian art. Above,
10am–6pm. e7. wwww.musee the museum winds round four
-marine.fr. The Musée de de la floors groaning with
Marine is worth visiting for its dramatically lit statues of
beautiful, super-scale models of Buddhas and gods.
French ships.These range from On the third floor, the rotunda
ancient galleys to Napoleonic was used by the collection’s
three-deckers, and from giant founder, Emile Guimet, for
trawlers to the latest nuclear the first Buddhist ceremony
submarines. ever held in France. A great
collector and patron of the arts,
Musée Guimet he came from a family of enor-
Place d’Iéna. Mon & Wed–Sun mously wealthy industrialists.
10am–6pm. e5.50. wwww.musee His original collection, brought
guimet.fr. Galeries du Panthéon back from his travels in Asia in
Bouddhique entrance at 19 avenue 1876, is exhibited in the nearby
d’Iéna. The airy, light-filled atri- Galeries du Panthéon
um of the Musée National des Bouddhique.
Arts Asiatiques-Guimet is peo-
pled with exquisite Buddha Musée de la Mode et du
statues and figurines from Costume
Cambodia’s ancient Khmer Palais Galliera. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm.
dynasty. It’s a breathtaking t01.56.52.86.00. e7. The
introduction to the museum’s grandiose Palais Galliera is home
Contents Places
Trocadéro PLACES 88
MUSEE D’ART MODERNE DE LA VILLE DE PARIS
to the Musée de la Mode et du salle Matisse, devoted to

Costume, which runs two or Matisse’s La Danse de Paris, and
three major exhibitions of Dufy’s enormous mural La Fée
clothes and fashion each year, Electricité (The Electricity Fairy),
drawing from the museum’s which fills an entire, curved
exceptional collection.Themes room with 250 lyrical, colourful
range from the work of individ- panels recounting the story of
ual couturiers to historical shows electricity from Aristotle to the
looking at the style of a particu- the 1930s.The collection is
lar era. During changeovers the kept up to the minute by an
museum is closed, so call in active buying policy, and the
advance to check – the staff visit usually ends with the latest
speak English. video acquisition or installation.
In the courtyard garden you
Musée d’Art Moderne de la can have a drink and admire the
Ville de Paris smooth columns framing a view
Palais de Tokyo. Tues–Fri 10am– of the Eiffel Tower.
5.45pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6.45pm;
closed public hols. Under renovation Site de Création
until 2005. Free. The Musée d’Art Contemporaine
Moderne de la Ville de Paris Palais de Tokyo. Tues–Sun noon
displays the city’s own collec- –midnight. Cost varies. w www
tion of modern art. It may not .palaisdetokyo.com. The semi-
rival the Pompidou Centre for derelict interior of the Palais de
super-celebrity works, but many Tokyo’s western wing looks as if
of the paintings have a reward- it has been hit by a bomb, with
ing Parisian theme, and the set- its wires and concrete beams and
ting in the elegant, Modernist pipes haphazardly exposed.The
Palais de Tokyo is perfect, as effect is in fact deliberate, an
there’s a strong collection of avant-garde “anti-museum” state-
early twentieth-century artists – ment made by the building’s
notably Braque, Chagall, occupants: the Site de Création
Delaunay, Derain, Léger, Contemporaine.This is the
Modigliani and Picasso. French state’s chief space for cut-
Highlights are the chapel-like ting-edge contemporary art
Contents Places
89
events, with a constant flow of
French conceptual art shows.
Paris-born Louise Bourgeois has
exhibited here, and the site has
been occupied – with official
PLACES Trocadéro
sanction – by groups as diverse
as a squat-living art collective
and a posse of skateboard
artistes.
Place de l’Alma
From most angles, place de
l’Alma looks like just another
busy Parisian junction, with cars
rattling over the cobbles and a
Métro entrance on the pave-
ment. Over in one corner, how- SITE DE CREATION CAFE
ever, stands a replica of the
flame from the Statue of with loving graffiti messages,
Liberty, which was given to though they’re periodically
France in 1987 as a symbol of cleaned off by the disapproving
Franco-American relations. authorities.
This golden torch has now
been adopted by mourners from
all over the world as a memorial
to Princess Diana, who was Cafés
killed in the underpass beneath
in 1997. A low wall is covered Site de Création
Contemporaine
PLACE DE L’ALMA FLAME
Palais de Tokyo. Tues–Sun noon–mid-
night. This café and restaurant
inside the gallery are self-con-
sciously hip places to hang out
– the Benetton-bright decor of
both venues is actually the
gallery’s permanent art collec-
tion.The rather expensive
Restaurant du Palais de Tokyo
serves cool, modern
Mediterranean and fusion
flavours, while the downstairs
cáfe is a good bet for a drink
and a snack.
Totem
Palais de Chaillot. Daily noon–2am.
Avoid the tacky, native-
American-themed restaurant,
and just walk through to the
terrace at the back, where you
can enjoy magnificent views of
the Eiffel Tower over a coffee or
a glass of wine.
Contents Places
90
The Grands Boulevards

and passages
The Grands Boulevards and passages PLACES
Built on the old city ramparts, the Grands Boulevards are

the eight broad streets that extend in a long arc from the
Eglise de la Madeleine eastwards. In the nineteenth cen-
tury, the boulevards were where Paris vivant was to be
found, from the fashionable cafés in the west to the more
colourful eastern end, with its street theatre and puppet
shows. There’s nothing that remarkable about the boule-
vards these days, but vestiges of their past live on in the
brasseries, cafés, theatres and cinemas (notably the splen-
did Art Deco cinemas Rex and Max Linder see p.207).
R U E D E PR O V EN C E
RUE DE PROVENCE
BOULEV E
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S
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Juveniles 8 Tuileries E Daniel Buren’s
PYR
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Le Rubis 9 des RU
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Palais Royal
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0 300 m Musée-du Palais du M 10
PL DU
PALAIS
-Louvre Louvre ROYAL
11
Contents Places
91
To the south of the Grands the whole area are the delightful
Boulevards lies the city’s main passages – nineteenth-century
commercial and financial dis- arcades that hark back to shop-
trict. Right at its heart stand the ping from a different era.
solid institutions of the Banque In the south, the tranquil
de France and the Bourse, while
PLACES The Grands Boulevards and passages

Palais Royal arcades and gardens
just to the north, beyond the make for a perfect rest-stop and
glittering Opéra Garnier, are are a handy shortcut through to
the large department stores the Bibliothèque Nationale.
Galeries Lafayette and
Printemps. Rather more well- Musée Grévin
heeled shopping is concentrated Bd Montmartre. Daily 10am–5.30pm.
on the rue St-Honoré in the e16, children e9. A remnant from
west and the streets around aris- the fun-loving times on the
tocratic place Vendôme, lined Grands Boulevards are the wax-
with top couturiers, jewellers works in the Musée Grévin,
and art dealers. Scattered around comprising mainly French
Bergère
RUE DE PROVENCE RUE RICHER RUE DES PE

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M PG TRE Max Linder
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Contents Places
The Grands Boulevards and passages PLACES 92
GALLERIES LAFAYETTE ON BOULEVARD HAUSSMANN
personalities and the usual Opéra Garnier

bunch of Hollywood actors.The Daily 10am–5pm. e6. See p.98 for
best thing about the museum booking information. The fantasti-
are the original rooms: the mag- cally ornate Opéra Garnier, built
ical Palais des Mirages (Hall of by Charles Garnier for
Mirrors), built for the Napoleon III, exemplifies the
Exposition Universelle in 1900; Second Empire in its show of
the theatre with its sculptures by wealth and hint of vulgarity.The
Bourdelle; and the 1882 theatre’s facade is a fairytale
Baroque-style Hall of Columns, concoction of white, pink and
where among other unlikely green marble, colonnades, rear-
juxtapositions, Lara Croft pre- ing horses, winged angels and
pares for action a few feet away gleaming gold busts. No less
from a dignified Charles de opulent is the interior with its
Gaulle, while Voltaire smiles spacious, gilded-marble and
across at the billowing skirts of mirrored lobbies.The auditori-
Marilyn Monroe. um itself is all red velvet and
gold leaf, hung with a six-tonne
chandelier; the colourful ceiling
was painted by Chagall in 1964
and depicts scenes from well-
known operas and ballets jum-
bled up with famous Parisian
landmarks.You can visit the
interior, including the auditori-
um, as long as there are no
rehearsals (your best chance is
between 1 & 2pm).
OPÉRA GARNIER
Contents Places
93
Paris-Story Place Vendôme
11 bis rue Scribe. Shows daily on the Built by Versailles architect
hour 9am–7pm. E8. Paris-Story is a Hardouin-Mansart, place
multi-media show tracing the Vendôme is one of the city’s
history of Paris – it’s a brief and most impressive set pieces. It’s a
highly romanticized overview,
PLACES
pleasingly symmetrical, eight-
but quite enjoyable all the same. sided place, enclosed by a har-
The 45-minute film, “narrated” monious ensemble of elegant
by Victor Hugo, with simultane- mansions, graced with
ous translation in English, uses a Corinthian pilasters and steeply
The Grands Boulevards and passages

kaleidoscope of computer-gen- pitched roofs. Once the grand
erated images and archive residences of tax collectors and
footage, set against a luscious financiers, they now house such
classical-music soundtrack. luxury establishments as the
Ritz hotel, Cartier, Bulgari and
Eglise de la Madeleine other top-flight jewellers, lend-
Mon–Sat 7.30am–7pm, Sun 8am–1pm ing the square a decidedly
& 4–7pm. See p.98 for concert exclusive air. No. 12, now occu-
information. The imperious- pied by Chaumet jewellers, is
looking Eglise de la Madeleine where Chopin died, in 1849.
is the parish church of the Somewhat out of proportion
cream of Parisian high society. with the rest of the square, the
Originally intended as a centrepiece is a towering tri-
monument to Napoleon’s army, umphal column, surmounted
it’s modelled on a Greek by a statue of Napoleon dressed
classical temple and is as Caesar. It was raised in 1806
surrounded by Corinthian to celebrate the Battle of
columns and fronted by a huge Austerlitz and features bronze
pediment depicting The Last reliefs of scenes of the battle,
Judgement. Inside, Charles cast from 1200 recycled Austro-
Marochetti’s theatrical sculpture Russian cannons, spiralling their
Mary Magdalene Ascending to way up.
Heaven draws your eye to the PLACE VENDOME
high altar.The church’s interior
is otherwise rather heavy, but if
you’re lucky, you may hear the
organ, reckoned to be one of
Paris’s best.
Place de la Madeleine
Flower market Tues–Sat 8am–7.30pm.
Surrounding the church, place
de la Madeleine is home to
some of Paris’s top gourmet
food stores, best-known of
which are Fauchon and
Hédiard. On the east side is one
of the city’s oldest flower
markets dating back to 1832,
while nearby, some rather fine
Art Nouveau public toilets are
definitely worth inspecting.
Contents Places
94
brothels and funfair
attractions until the
prohibition on public
gambling in 1838 put
an end to the fun.
Folly, some might say,
has returned – in the

form of contempo-
rary artist Daniel
Buren’s black-and-
white striped pillars,
rather like sticks of
Brighton rock, all of
varying heights, dot-
ted about the main
courtyard in front of
PALAIS ROYAL
the palace.
Rue St-Honoré Galerie Véro-Dodat
Rue St-Honoré – especially its Between rue Croix-des-Petits-Champs
western end and its faubourg and rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau.
extension – is a preserve of top With its tiled floors, ceiling dec-
fashion designers and art gal- orations and mahogany shop
leries. In recent years newer, fronts divided by faux marble
cutting-edge designers have columns, Galerie Véro-Dodat is
begun colonizing the stretch one of the most attractive and
between rue Cambon and rue homogeneous passages.There are
des Pyramides – a trend that some lovely old shops here, such
started with the ultra-cool Hôtel as Monsieur Capia at no. 26,
Costes (see p.192) in the late piled high with an impressive
1990s, followed by the concept collection of antique dolls and
store, Colette (see p.96). miscellaneous curios.
Palais Royal Galerie Vivienne
Gardens daily dawn–dusk. Free. Links rue Vivienne with rue des Petits-
The Palais Royal was built for Champs. The flamboyant decor of
Cardinal Richelieu in 1624, Grecian and marine motifs of
though little now remains of the charming Galerie Vivienne estab-
original palace.The current lishes the perfect ambience in
building, mostly dating from the which to buy Jean-Paul Gaultier
eighteenth century, houses vari- gear, or you can browse in the
ous governmental bodies and antiquarian bookshop, Librairie
the Comédie Française, long- Jousseaume, which dates back to
standing venue for the classics the passage’s earliest days.
of French theatre.To the rear lie
sedate gardens with fountains Passage des Panoramas
and avenues of clipped limes, Off rue Vivienne. The grid of
bounded by stately eighteenth- arcades collectively known as
century mansions built over the passage des Panoramas has
arcades housing mainly antique an appealing old-fashioned chic.
and designer shops.You’d hardly Standing out among the bric-a-
guess that for a time these brac shops, stamp and second-
peaceful arcades and gardens hand postcard dealers are a
were a site of gambling dens, brasserie, L’Arbre à Cannelle,
Contents Places
95
The passages
Conceived by town planners in the early nineteenth century to protect pedestrians
from mud and horse-drawn vehicles, the passages, elegant glass-roofed shopping
arcades, were for decades left to crumble and decay, but many have recently been
renovated and restored to something approaching their former glory, and chic bou-
PLACES
tiques have moved in alongside the old-fashioned traders and secondhand dealers.
Most are closed at night and on Sundays.
with fantastic carved wood pan- passage Verdeau, where old
The Grands Boulevards and passages

elling, and a fine old printshop postcard and camera dealers
with its original 1867 fittings. trade alongside smart new art
galleries.
Passages Jouffroy and
Verdeau Passage du Grand-Cerf
Off bd Montmartre. Between rue St-Denis and rue
Across boulevard Montmartre, Dessoubs. The three-storey
passage Jouffroy is full of the Grand-Cerf is stylistically the
kind of stores that make shop- best of all the passages.The
ping an adventure rather than a wrought-iron work, glass roof
chore. A M. Segas sells eccentric and plain-wood shop fronts
have all been cleaned, attracting
walking canes and theatrical
stylish arts, crafts and contempo-
antiques opposite a shop stock-
rary design shops.
ing every conceivable fitting and
furnishing for a doll’s house, Bibliothèque Nationale
while near the romantic Hôtel Richelieu
Chopin (reviewed on p.193), t01.53.79.53.79, w www.bnf.fr.
Paul Vulin spreads his second- Exhibitions Tues–Sat 10am–7pm, Sun
hand books along the passage- noon–7pm; e5. Cabinet des Monnaies,
way, and Ciné-Doc appeals to Médailles et Antiques Mon–Fri
cinephiles with its collection of 1–5.45pm, Sat 1–4.45pm, Sun
old film posters. Crossing rue de noon–6pm; free. The Bibliothèque
la Grange-Batelière, you enter Nationale Richelieu, the
French National Library, is a
GALERIE VIVIENNE
huge, forbidding-looking build-
ing, dating back to the 1660s.
Visiting its temporary exhibi-
tions will give you access to
some of the more beautiful parts
of the building – the Galerie
Mazarine in particular, with its
panelled ceilings painted by
Romanelli.You can also see a
rich and absorbing display of
coins and ancient treasures in
the Cabinet des Monnaies,
Médailles et Antiques.There’s
no restriction on entering the
library, nor on peering into the
atmospheric reading rooms,
though it’s now mostly bereft of
books.
Contents Places
96
Shops floors given over to the latest
creations by leading designers.
As well as the shops below be Then there’s household stuff, a
sure to check out the passages (see host of big names in men’s and
p.95), fertile hunting ground for women’s accessories, a sizeable
lingerie department and a huge
curios and one-off buys.

parfumerie – all under a superb
Boîte à Musique Anna Jolivet 1900 dome.
9 rue de Beaujolais, Jardin du Palais
Royal. Mon–Sat 10am–7pm. A Hédiard
delightful, minuscule shop sell- 21 place de la Madeleine. Mon–Sat
ing every style of music box, 8am–10pm. Since the 1850s, the
from inexpensive self-winding aristocrat’s grocer, selling
toy models to grand cabinets superlative-quality food.
costing thousands of euros. Printemps
Colette 64 bd Haussmann. Mon–Sat
213 rue St-Honoré. Mon–Sat 9.30am–7pm, Thurs till 10pm. Books,
10.30am–7.30pm. This cutting- records, a parfumerie and an
edge concept store, combining excellent fashion department for
high fashion and design, is as women spread over five floors.
cool as it comes.When you’ve The sixth-floor restaurant is
finished sizing up the Pucci right underneath the beautiful
underwear, Stella McCartney Art Nouveau glass dome.
fashion and Sonia Rykiel hand-
bags, head for the Water Bar,
with its eighty different kinds of Cafés
bottled H2O. A Priori Thé
Fauchon 35 Galerie Vivienne. Mon–Sat
24–30 place de la Madeleine. Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 12.30–6.30pm. In
9.30am–7pm. A cornucopia of one of the most picturesque pas-
extravagant and beautiful gro- sages, this inviting café/salon de
ceries, charcuterie and wines. Just thé serves excellent tea and
the place for presents of tea, jam, cakes, as well as more substantial
truffles, chocolates, exotic vinegars dishes.
and mustards. Juveniles
Galeries Lafayette 47 rue de Richelieu. Mon–Sat
40 bd Haussmann. Mon–Sat noon–11pm. A very popular, tiny
9.30am–7pm, Thurs till 9pm. This wine bar run by a Scot. A great
venerable department store’s selection of wines from e13 a
forte is high fashion, with two bottle; reasonably priced snacks
and plats du jour, too.
MUSIC BOXES AT ANNA JOILET
Café de la Comédie
153 rue St-Honoré. Tues–Sun
10am–midnight. A small,
traditional café opposite
the Comédie Française,
serving excellent tartines
(open sandwiches) and
croque-monsieurs.
Contents Places
DOME OF THE GALERIES LAFAYETTE
97
PLACES The Grands Boulevards and passages

Ladurée Le Grand Café Capucines
16 rue Royale. Mon–Sat 8.30am–7pm. 4 bd des Capucines. Daily 24hr. A
A luxury salon de thé, decorated popular post-cinema/opera
with gilt-edged mirrors and ceil- spot with over-the-top, belle
ing frescoes and famous for its époque decor and excellent, if
melt-in-your-mouth macaroons. pricey, seafood.
Le Grand Colbert
Passage Colbert, rue Vivienne,
Restaurants t01.42.86.87.88. Daily noon–3pm &
7.30pm–1am; closed mid-July to
mid-Aug. Senior librarians and
Chartier
academics from the nearby
7 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre. Daily
Bibliothèque Nationale retire
11.30am–3pm & 6–10pm. Brown
to this elegant belle époque
linoleum floor, dark-stained
woodwork, brass hat-racks, brasserie for lunch, and the-
waiters in long aprons – the atregoers drop in later for solid
original decor of an early French cooking. There’s a
twentieth-century soup good-value, all-day set menu,
kitchen. Worth seeing and, which includes coffee.
though crowded and rushed,
the food here is very cheap Le Vaudeville
and good value. 29 rue Vivienne t 01.40.20.04.62.
Daily 7am–2am. There’s often a
Foujita queue to get a table at this live-
41 rue St-Roche t 01.42.61.42.93. ly, late-night brasserie, attractive-
Mon–Sat noon–2.15pm & 7.30–10pm; ly decorated with marble and
closed mid-Aug. Quick and crowd- mosaics and serving fine cuisine
ed, this is one of the cheaper at slightly above-average prices.
but better Japanese restaurants,
as shown by the numbers of
Japanese eating here.
Contents Places
98
Bars Rex Club
5 bd Poissonnière t 01.42.36.28.83;
Le Fumoir Wed–Sat 11.30pm–6am; closed Aug;
6 rue de l’Amiral-Coligny. Daily up to e15. The clubbers’ club:
11am–2am. Animated chatter serious about its music, which is
strictly electronic, notably tech-
rises above a mellow jazz

soundtrack and the sound of no. Attracts big-name DJs.
cocktail shakers in this coolly
designed and relaxing bar-
restaurant.There’s also a library Live music
at the back and foreign newspa- Au Limonaire
pers to browse. 18 Cité Bergère t 01.45.23.33.33.
Le Rubis Tues–Sat. This tiny, backstreet
10 rue du Marché-St-Honoré. Mon–Fri place is the perfect intimate and
7.30am–10pm, Sat 9am–3pm; closed informal venue for Parisian
mid-Aug. This very small and chanson, often showcasing com-
crowded wine bar is one of the mitted young singers or zany
oldest in Paris, known for its music/poetry
excellent wines and homemade /performance acts trying to
rillettes (a kind of pork pâté). catch a break. Dinner before-
hand (traditional, fairly inexpen-
sive and usually quite good)
Clubs guarantees a seat for the show at
10pm, otherwise you’ll be
Le Pulp crammed up against the bar – if
25 bd Poissonnière t01.40.26.01.93, you can get in at all.
wpulp.xroot.com. Wed–Sat 11.30pm
–6am; Fri & Sat e10, free Wed & Thurs. Eglise de la Madeleine
Primarily a lesbian club, but its t 01.42.50.96.18. A regular venue
mixed evenings on Wed and for organ recitals and choral
especially Thurs (electric night) concerts.Tickets e15–23.
are tremendously popular and Opéra Garnier
draw an eclectic crowd. t 08.36.69.78.68, w www.opera-de-
VIEW OF THE LOUVRE FROM LE FUMOIR paris.fr. The Opéra
Garnier is generally
used for ballets and
smaller-scale opera
productions than those
put on at the Opéra
Bastille. For pro-
gramme and booking
details consult their
website or phone the
box office.Tickets can
cost as little as e6 if
you don’t mind being
up in the gods, though
most are in the
e40–60 range.
Contents Places
99
Beaubourg and
Les Halles
PLACES Beaubourg and Les Halles

One of the city’s most recognizable and popular land-
marks, the Pompidou Centre, or Beaubourg, as the
building is known locally, draws large numbers of visi-
tors to its excellent modern art museum and high-pro-
file exhibitions. Its ground-breaking architecture pro-
voked a storm of controversy on its opening in 1977,
but since then it has won over critics and public alike.
By contrast, nearby Les Halles, a shopping complex
built at around the same time as the Pompidou Centre
to replace the old food market that once stood here,
has never really endeared itself to the city’s inhabitants,
though it’s worth seeking out some of Les Halles’ sur-
viving old bistros and food stalls, which preserve traces
of the old market atmosphere.
The Pompidou Centre twentieth century’s most radical
wwww.centrepompidou.fr. Built at buildings.Wanting to move
the heart of one of Paris’s oldest away from the traditional idea of
districts, the resolutely modern galleries as closed treasure chests
Pompidou Centre is among the to create something more open
L
EATING & DRINKING

RGUEI
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Café Beaubourg 6 La Robe et le Palais

T- D E N
7
Pâtisserie
ONTO
Georges 5 La Tour de Montlhéry

Stohrer PASS
RUE S
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Le Petit Marcel 3 (Chez Denise) R U4E GRA AGE DU

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Contents Places
100
plus works are on
show at any one time
(they’re frequently
rotated).
The section covering
Beaubourg and Les Halles PLACES
the years 1905 to

1960 is a near-com-
plete visual essay on
the history of modern
art: Fauvism, Cubism,
Dada, abstract art,
Surrealism and abstract
expressionism are all
well represented.
There’s a particularly
rich collection of
Matisses, ranging from
early Fauvist works to
his late masterpieces –
a stand-out is his
Tristesse du Roi, a mov-
ing meditation on old
POMPIDOU CENTRE
age and memory. Other high-
and accessible, the architects lights include a number of
Renzo Piano and Richard Picassos and Braque’s early Cubist
Rogers stripped the “skin” off paintings and a substantial collec-
the building and made all the tion of Kandinskys, including his
“bones” visible.The infrastruc- pioneering abstract works Avec
ture was put on the outside: l’arc noir and Composition à la tache
escalator tubes and utility pipes, rouge. A whole room is devoted
brightly colour-coded according to the characteristically colourful
to their function, climb around paintings of Robert and Sonia
the exterior in a crazy snakes- Delaunay, while the mood dark-
and-ladder fashion.The centre’s ens in later rooms with unsettling
main draw is its modern art works by Surrealists Magritte,
museum and exhibitions, but Dalí and Ernst.
there are also two cinemas and In the Pop Art section is Andy
performance spaces. One of the Warhol’s easily recognizable Ten
added treats of visiting the muse- Lizes, in which the actress
um is that you get to ascend the Elizabeth Taylor sports a Mona
transparent escalator on the out- Lisa-like smile. Elsewhere Yves
side of the building, affording Klein prefigures performance art
superb views over the city. with his Grande anthropophagie
bleue; Hommage à Tennessee
Musée National Williams, one in a series of “body
d’Art Moderne prints” in which the artist turned
Pompidou Centre. Daily except Tues female models into human paint-
11am–9pm. e5.50, audio-guide in brushes, covering them in paint
English e4.57. The Musée to create his artworks.
National d’Art Moderne collec- Established contemporary
tion is one of the finest of its artists you’re likely to come
kind in the world, and is so large across include Claes Oldenburg,
that only a fraction of the 50,000 Christian Boltanski and Daniel
Contents Places
101
Buren. Typical of his large mise- Quartier Beaubourg
en-scène installations, Christian The lively quartier Beaubourg
Boltanski’s Réserve is a room around the Pompidou Centre
hung with lots of musty-smelling also offers much in the way of
secondhand clothes; the effect is visual art.The colourful, swirling

oddly oppressive, the absence of sculptures and fountains in the
the original wearers suggesting pool in front of Eglise St-Merri
death and anonymity. Daniel on place Igor Stravinsky, on
Buren’s works are easy to spot:
they all bear his trademark the south side of the Pompidou
stripes, exactly 8.7cm in width. Centre, were created by Jean
Tinguely and Niki de St-Phalle;
Atelier Brancusi this squirting waterworks pays
Pompidou Centre. Daily except Tues homage to Stravinsky – each
2–6pm. Combined ticket with the fountain was inspired by one of
Musée National d’Art Moderne. The his compositions (The Firebird,
Atelier Brancusi is the recon- The Rite of Spring and so on) but
structed home and studio of shows scant respect for passers-by.
Constantin Brancusi, one of the Numerous commercial gal-
greatest sculptors of the twenti- leries take up the contemporary
eth century. He bequeathed the art theme on rue
contents of his atelier to the state Quincampoix, northeast of the
on condition that the rooms be Pompidou Centre, the most
arranged exactly as he left them attractive street in the area: nar-
and they provide a fascinating
insight into how the artist lived row, pedestrianized and lined
and worked. Studios one and with fine old hôtels particuliers.
two are crowded with Brancusi’s Also worth exploring is pas-
trademark abstract bird and col- sage Molière, an enchanting
umn shapes in highly polished little alley with some quirky
brass and marble, while studios shops, such as Des Mains et des
three and four would have been Pieds, where you can get a plas-
the artist’s living quarters. ter made of your hand or foot.
PASSAGE MOLIERE
Contents Places
102
rue Pierre-Lescot and is spread
over four levels.The overground
section comprises aquarium-like
arcades of shops, arranged around
a sunken patio, and landscaped
gardens.The shops are mostly

devoted to high-street fashion,
though there’s also a large FNAC
bookshop and the Forum des
Créateurs, an outlet for young
fashion designers.
Little now remains of the old
working-class quarter, but you
can still catch a flavour of the old
market atmosphere in some of
the surrounding bars and bistros
HOTEL DE VILLE and on pedestrianized rue
Montorgueil to the north,
Hôtel de Ville where traditional grocery stalls
The Hôtel de Ville, the seat of and butchers ply their trade
the city’s mayor, is a mansion of alongside newer arrivals.
gargantuan proportions in florid
neo-Renaissance style, modelled St-Eustache
pretty much on the previous For an antidote to the steel and
building burned down during glass troglodytism of Les Halles,
the Commune in 1871.The head for the soaring vaults of the
huge square in front of the Hôtel beautiful church of St-Eustache.
de Ville, a notorious guillotine Built between 1532 and 1637, it’s
site during the Revolution, Gothic in structure, with lofty
becomes the location of a popu- naves and graceful flying buttress-
lar ice-skating rink from es, and Renaissance in decoration
December to February; it’s free – all Corinthian columns,
and is particularly magical at pilasters and arcades. Molière was
night – it’s open till midnight on baptized here, and Rameau and
weekends.You can hire skates for Marivaux are buried here.
around e5.
LES HALLES
Les Halles
Described by Zola as “le ventre
(stomach) de Paris”, Les Halles
was Paris’s main food market for
over eight hundred years until,
despite widespread opposition, it
was moved out to the suburbs in
1969 and replaced by a large
underground shopping and
leisure complex, known as the
Forum des Halles, as well as a
major Métro/RER interchange
(m Châtelet-les Halles).
The Forum des Halles centre
stretches underground from the
Bourse du Commerce rotunda to
Contents Places
103
Fontaine des Innocents
The Fontaine des Innocents, a Cafés
fine Renaissance fountain, deco-
rated with bas-reliefs, is Paris’s Café Beaubourg
oldest surviving fountain, dating 43 rue St-Merri. Mon–Thurs & Sun

from 1549. It takes its name from 8am–1am, Sat 8am–2am. A seat
the cemetery that used to occupy under the expansive awnings of
this site, the Cimetière des this stylish café is one of the best
Innocents. places for people-watching on
the Pompidou Centre’s piazza.
Shops
Agnès B Restaurants
2, 3, 6, 10, 19 rue du Jour. Mon–Wed, Fri
& Sat 10–7, Thurs 10am–9pm. Chic Georges
French fashion for men, women Pompidou Centre, top floor. Daily
and children. except Tues noon–midnight. This
cool, ultra-minimalist restaurant
Comptoir des Ecritures commands stunning views over
35 rue Quincampoix. Tues–Sat the rooftops of Paris (smoking
11am–7pm. A delightful shop seats have the best views).The
entirely devoted to the art of French-Asian fusion cuisine is
calligraphy, with an extensive passable though somewhat over-
collection of paper, pens, priced – but then that’s not
brushes and inks. really why you come.
Pâtisserie Stohrer Au Pied de Cochon

51 rue Montorgueil. Daily 6 rue Coquillière. Daily 24hr. A Les
7.30am–8pm; closed first two weeks Halles institution, this is the
of Aug. Discover what pain aux place to go for extravagant
raisins should really taste like at middle-of-the-night pork
Pâtisserie Stohrer, in business chops, oysters and, of course,
since 1730. pigs’ trotters.
La Samaritaine La Robe et le Palais

75 rue de Rivoli; Mon–Sat 13 rue des Lavandières St-Opportune
9.30am–7pm, Thurs till 10pm. A t01.45.08.07.41; Mon–Sat noon–2pm
splendid Art Nouveau depart- & 7.30–11pm. Small, bustling
ment store, dating back to 1903, restaurant à vins serving tradi-
recently given something of an tional cuisine and an excellent
upmarket makeover. selection of wines at reasonable
prices.
Zadig & Voltaire
15 rue du Jour. Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. La Tour de Montlhéry
The women’s clothes at this (Chez Denise)
small Parisian chain are pretty 5 rue des Prouvaires
and trendy in a relaxed way. In t 01.42.36.21.82; 24hr Mon–Fri;
style they’re not a million miles closed mid-July to mid-Aug. An old-
from Agnes B, only with a more style Les Halles bistrot serving
wayward flair. substantial food at slightly above
average prices; always crowded
and smoky.
Contents Places
104
Au Vieux Molière on when you arrive). A small,
Passage Molière, 157 rue Saint-Martin unpretentious jazz bar – the place
t01.42.78.37.87.Tues–Sat noon–2pm & to hear gypsy jazz, blues, ballads
7.30–11pm, Sun noon–2pm. French and fusion. Performances from
chansons playing softly in the 9pm. Drinks around E4.50.
background add to the mellow

atmosphere of this cosy, candle-lit Le Sunset & Le Sunside
restaurant serving first-class 60 rue des Lombards t01.40.26.46.20.
French cuisine at slightly above Mon–Sat 9pm–2.30am. E12–20. Two
average prices. clubs in one: Le Sunside on the
ground floor features mostly
traditional jazz; while the
Bars downstairs Sunset is a venue for
electric and fusion jazz.Attracts
Le Petit Marcel some big names.
63 rue Rambuteau; Mon–Sat
10am–midnight. Speckled tabletops,
mirrors and Art Nouveau tiles, a Clubs
cracked and faded ceiling and
about eight square metres of Les Bains
drinking space. Friendly bar staff 7 rue du Bourg-l’Abbé t01.48.87.01.80.
and “local” atmosphere. Daily midnight–dawn. Mon–Fri E16, Sat
& Sun E20. As posey as they come,
set in an old Turkish bathhouse
Live music with a chill-out area in the old
plunge pool.The music is
Le Duc des Lombards mostly house, hip-hop and
42 rue des Lombards t 01.42.33.22.88. garage. Fussy bouncers and
Daily 7.30pm–3am. E16–19 (depends expensive drinks.
LE SUNSET
Contents Places
105
The Marais
Having largely escaped the attentions of Baron
Haussmann and unspoiled by modern development, the
PLACES The Marais

Marais is one of the most seductive areas of central
Paris, full of splendid Renaissance mansions, narrow
lanes and buzzing bars and restaurants. Originally little
more than a riverside swamp (marais), the area was
drained and became a magnet for the aristocracy in the
early 1600s after the construction of the place des
Vosges – or place Royale, as it was then known. This
golden age was relatively short-lived, however, for the
king took his court to Versailles in the latter part of the
seventeenth century and the mansions were left to the
trading classes, who were in turn displaced during the
Revolution. From then on, the mansions became multi-
occupied slum tenements and the streets degenerated
into unserviced squalor – hard to believe now that the
Marais is one of the most desirable areas in the city.
Gentrification proceeded apace Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du

from the 1960s, and the quarter Judaïsme
is now known for its sophistica- 71 rue du Temple w www.mahj.org.
tion and artsy leanings and for Mon–Fri 11am–6pm, Sun 10am–6pm.
being the neighbourhood of e6.10. Housed in the attractively
choice for gay Parisians, who are restored Hôtel de Saint-Aignan,
to be credited with bringing the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire
both business and style to the du Judaïsme traces the culture
area.The city’s ancient Jewish and history mainly of the Jews
quarter is also sited here, con- in France.The result is a very
centrated on rue des Rosiers. comprehensive collection, as
Prime streets for wandering are educational as it is beautiful.
rue des Francs-Bourgeois, lined
PLACE DES VOSGES
with trendy fashion and interior
design boutiques, and rue Vieille-
du-Temple and rue des Archives,
their lively cafés and bars abuzz
at all times of day and night.The
Marais’ animated streets and
atmospheric old buildings would
be reason enough to visit, but
the quarter also boasts an
extraordinary concentration of
superb museums, not least
among them the Musée Picasso,
the Carnavalet history museum
and the Musée d’Art et
d’Histoire du Judaïsme, all set in
handsome Renaissance mansions.
Contents Places
106
RUE
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107
N
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Contents Places
108
Archives, and from rue Vieille-
du-Temple to rue des Francs-
Bourgeois, was once filled by a
magnificent early eighteenth-
century palace complex. Only
The Marais PLACES
half remains today, but it is

utterly splendid, especially the
grand colonnaded courtyard of
the Hôtel Soubise, with its
vestigial fourteenth-century
towers on rue des Quatre Fils.
Restoration works on the
hôtel’s fabulous Rococo decor
will keep visitors out for all of
2004 and part of 2005, but
MUSEE D’ART ET D’HISTOIRE DU JUDAISME meanwhile you can see plenty
of sumptuous interiors at the
Highlights include a Gothic- adjacent Hôtel de Rohan,
style Hanukkah lamp, one of the notably the charming,
very few French Jewish artefacts Chinese-inspired Cabinet des
to survive from the period Singes, whose walls are painted
before the expulsion of the Jews with monkeys acting out vari-
from France in 1394; an Italian ous aristocratic scenes.
gilded circumcision chair from
the seventeenth century; and a Musée Picasso
completely intact late-nine- 5 rue de Thorigny. Daily except Tues
teenth-century Austrian Sukkah, 9.30am–6pm, Thurs till 8pm, March &
a temporary dwelling for the April till 5.30pm. e5.50, Sun e4.
celebration of the harvest. Behind the elegant classical
The museum also holds the facade of the seventeenth-
Dreyfus archives, with one room century Hôtel Salé lies the
devoted to the notorious Musée Picasso. It’s the largest
Dreyfus affair.
The last few rooms contain a HOTEL SOUBISE
significant collection of paintings

and sculpture by Jewish artists –
Marc Chagall, Samuel
Hirszenberg, Chaïm Soutine and
Jacques Lipchitz – who came to
live in Paris at the beginning of
the twentieth century.
The only reference to the
Holocaust is an installation by
contemporary artist Christian
Boltanski: its very understatement
has a powerful impact.
Hôtel Soubise
60 rue des Francs-Bourgeois. Mon &
Wed–Fri 10am–12.30pm & 2–5.30pm,
Sat & Sun 2–5.30pm. e3. The
entire block from rue des
Quatre Fils and rue des
Contents Places
109
MUSEE PICASSO
created from recycled household

objects, such as the endearing La
Chèvre (Goat), whose stomach is
made from a basket, and the Tête
de taureau (Bull’s head), an ingen-
PLACES The Marais

ious pairing of a bicycle seat and
handlebars.
Musée Cognacq-Jay
8 rue Elzévir. Tues–Sun 10am–5.40pm.
Free. The compact Musée
Cognacq-Jay occupies the fine
Hôtel Donon.The Cognacq-Jay
family built up the Samaritaine
collection of Picassos anywhere, department store (see p.103) and
representing almost all the major were noted philanthropists and
periods of the artist’s life from lovers of European art.Their
1905 onwards. Many of the collection of eighteenth-century
works were owned by Picasso pieces on show includes works
and on his death in 1973 were by Canaletto, Fragonard,
seized by the state in lieu of Rubens and Rembrandt, as well
taxes owed.The result is an as an exquisite still life by
unedited body of work, which, Chardin, displayed in beautifully
although perhaps not among the carved wood-panelled rooms
most recognizable of Picasso’s filled with Sèvres porcelain and
masterpieces, provides a sense of Louis XV furniture.
the artist’s development and an
insight into the person behind Musée Carnavalet
the myth. 23 rue de Sévigné. Tues–Sun
Some of the most engaging 10am–6pm. Free. The fascinating
works on display are his more Musée Carnavalet charts the
personal ones – those depicting history of Paris from its ori-
his wives, lovers and children. gins up to the belle époque
Portraits of his lovers, Dora Maar through an extraordinary col-
and Marie-Thérèse, exhibited lection of paintings, sculptures,
side by side in room 13, show decorative arts and archeologi-
how the two women inspired cal finds – spread over 140
Picasso in very different ways: rooms. The museum’s setting
they strike the same pose, but in two beautiful Renaissance
Dora Maar is painted with strong mansions, Hôtel Carnavalet
lines and vibrant colours, suggest- and Hôtel Le Peletier, sur-
ing a passionate, vivacious per- rounded by attractive gardens,
sonality, while Marie-Thérèse’s is worth a visit in itself.
muted colours and soft contours Among the highlights on the
convey serenity and peace. ground floor, devoted largely
The museum also holds a sub- to the early history of Paris, is
stantial number of Picasso’s the recently renovated orangery
engravings, ceramics and sculp- housing a significant collection
ture, reflecting the remarkable of Neolithic finds, including a
ease with which the artist moved number of wooden pirogues
from one medium to another. unearthed during the redevelop-
Some of the most arresting sculp- ment of the Bercy riverside area
tures (room 17) are those he in the 1990s.
Contents Places
The Marais PLACES 110
MUSEE CARNAVALET
On the first floor, decorative literary life at the beginning of

arts feature strongly, with numer- the twentieth century, including a
ous re-created salons and reconstruction of Proust’s cork-
boudoirs full of richly sculpted lined bedroom (room 147).
wood panelling and tapestries The second floor has rooms
from the time of Louis XII to full of mementoes of the French
Louis XVI, rescued from build- Revolution: original declarations
ings that had to be destroyed for of the Rights of Man and the
Haussmann’s boulevards. Room Citizen, glorious models of the
21 is devoted to the famous let- guillotine, crockery with revolu-
ter-writer Madame de Sévigné, tionary slogans and even execu-
who lived in the Carnavalet tion orders to make you shed a
mansion and wrote a series of tear for the royalists as well.
letters to her daughter, which
vividly portray her privileged The Jewish quarter: rue des
lifestyle under the reign of Louis Rosiers
XIV. Rooms 128 to 148 are Crammed with kosher food
largely devoted to the belle époque, shops, delicatessens, restaurants
evoked through numerous paint- and Hebrew bookstores, the nar-
ings of the period and some row, bustling rue des Rosiers has
wonderful Art Nouveau interiors, been the heart of the city’s Jewish
most stunning of which is a jew- quarter ever since the twelfth
ellery shop, with its peacock- century, and remains so, despite
green decor and swirly motifs, incursions by trendy bars and
designed by Alphonse Mucha clothes shops.There’s also a dis-
and reassembled here in its tinctly Mediterranean flavour to
entirety.Also well preserved is the quarter, as seen in the many
José-Maria Sert’s Art Deco falafel stalls, testimony to the
ballroom, with its extravagant influence of the North African
gold-leaf decor and grand-scale Sephardim, who, since the end of
paintings, including one of the World War II, have sought refuge
Queen of Sheba with a train of here from the uncertainties of life
elephants. Nearby is a section on in the former French colonies.
Contents Places
111
Place des Vosges tions, usually with social, histor-
A vast square of symmetrical pink ical or anthropological themes,
brick and stone mansions built mounted by the Mission du
over arcades, the place des Vosges Patrimoine Photographique.
is a masterpiece of aristocratic The mansion’s formal garden,
PLACES The Marais

elegance and the first example of with its orangery and park
planned development in the his- benches, makes for a peaceful
tory of Paris. It was built by rest-stop.
Henri IV and inaugurated in
1612 for the wedding of Louis The Quartier St-Paul-St-
XIII and Anne of Austria; Louis’s Gervais
statue – or, rather, a replica of it – The southern section of the
stands hidden by chestnut trees in Marais, below rues de Rivoli
the middle of the grass and gravel and St-Antoine, harbours some
gardens at the square’s centre. of Paris’s most atmospheric
Through all the vicissitudes of streets: rue Cloche-Perce with
history, the place has never lost its its crooked steps and lanterns;
cachet as a smart address.Today, rue François-Miron lined with
well-heeled Parisians pause in tottering medieval timbered
the arcades at art, antique and houses; and cobbled rue des
fashion shops, and lunch alfresco Barres, filled with the scent of
in the restaurants while buskers roses from nearby gardens and
play classical music.The garden is sometimes the waft of incense
the only green space of any size from the church of St-Gervais-
in the locality – unusually for St-Protais, a late Gothic con-
Paris, you’re allowed to sprawl on struction that looks somewhat
the grass. battered on the outside owing
to a direct hit from a shell fired
Maison de Victor Hugo from a Big Bertha howitzer in
Tues–Sun 10am–6pm, closed hols. Free. 1918. Its interior contains some
Among the many celebrities who lovely stained glass, carved mis-
made their homes in place des ericords and a seventeenth-
Vosges was Victor Hugo; his century organ – Paris’s oldest.
house, at no. 6, where he wrote
JEWISH QUARTER DELI
much of Les Misérables, is now a
museum, the Maison de Victor
Hugo. Hugo was extraordinarily
multi-talented: as well as being a
prolific writer, he enjoyed sketch-
ing and designed his own furni-
ture. Nearly five hundred of his
ink drawings are on display, and a
richly decorated Chinese-style
dining room that he designed for
his house in Guernsey is recreat-
ed here in all its splendour.
Hôtel de Sully
62 rue St-Antoine. Tues–Sun
10am–6.30pm. e4.
The exquisite Renaissance
Hôtel de Sully is home to tem-
porary photographic exhibi-
Contents Places
112
Maison Européenne de la
Photographie
4 rue de Fourcy. Wed–Sun 11am–8pm.
e5, free Wed after 5pm. A gorgeous
Marais mansion, the early eigh-
The Marais PLACES
teenth-century Hôtel Hénault de

Cantobre, has been turned into a
vast and serene space dedicated to
the art of contemporary photog-
raphy. Temporary shows combine
with a revolving exhibition of the
Maison’s permanent collection;
young photographers and news
photographers get a look-in, as
well as artists using photography
in multimedia creations or instal-
lation art.A library and videothèque
can be freely consulted, and MARAIS CHIC
there’s a stylish café designed by

architect Nestor Perkal. Librairie Culture
17 bis rue Pavée. Mon–Sat 10.30–7pm.
A real Aladdin’s cave, spread over
three floors, with books piled up
Shops everywhere you look – mostly
secondhand and returns, with
some good deals on art titles.
Archives de la Presse
51 rue des Archives. Mon–Sat Mariage Frères
10.30am–7pm. A fascinating shop 30 rue du Bourg-Tibourg. Shop daily
trading in old French newspa- 10.30am–7.30pm. café daily
pers and magazines. The noon–7pm. Hundreds of teas,
window always has a display of neatly packed in tins, line the
outdated newspapers corre- floor-to-ceiling shelves of this
sponding to the current month, 100-year-old tea emporium.
and there are piles upon piles There’s also a classy, neo-colo-
of old magazines inside. nial-style salon de thé on the
ground floor.
Bain – Plus Enfants
23 rue des Blancs Manteaux. Tues–Sat Papier Plus
11am–7.30pm. Aimed at kids up to 9 rue du Pont-Louis-Philippe.
12 years old, this stylish shop has an Mon–Sat noon–7pm. Fine-quality,
irresistible range of bed and bath colourful stationery, including
items: chic pyjamas, hooded robes, notebooks, photo albums and
fluffy towels and cuddly bears. artists’ portfolios.
CSAO (Compagnie du Sénégal Sacha Finkelsztajn

et de l’Afrique de l’Ouest) 27 rue des Rosiers. Wed–Mon
1 & 3 rue Elzévir. Mon–Sat 11am–7pm, 10am–2pm & 3–7pm; closed Aug.
Sun 2–7pm. Fairly traded crafts Marvellous Jewish deli for take-
and artwork from West Africa, away snacks and goodies: East
including Malian cotton scarves European breads, apple strudel,
in rich, earthy tones and painted gefilte fish, aubergine purée, tara-
glass from Senegal. ma, blinis and borsch.
Contents Places
113
Le Loir dans la Théière
Cafés 3 rue des Rosiers. Sun–Thurs
11am–7pm, Fri & Sat 10am–7pm. A
Amnésia Café convivial and trendy salon de thé,
42 rue Vieille-du-Temple. Daily where you can sink into bat-
PLACES The Marais

10am–2am. Forget your troubles tered sofas and pit yourself
over drinks and sandwiches in the against challenging portions of
alluring ambience of this low-lit, scrummy, homemade cakes.
spacious café. Popular brunch
served from noon to 5pm. Gets L’Open Café
pretty wild at night; primarily gay, 17 rue des Archives t 01.42.72.26.18
but straight-friendly. Daily 11am–2am. A popular gay
café, heaving at night with a hip
L’Apparemment Café club crowd.
18 rue des Coutures-St-Gervais.
Mon–Fri noon–2am, Sat 4pm–2am, Sun Maison Européenne de la
12.30pm–midnight. A chic but cosy Photographie Café
café resembling a series of com- 4 rue de Fourcy. Thurs–Sun
fortable sitting rooms, with quiet 11am–7pm, Wed 11am–5pm. A styl-
corners and deep sofas. Popular ish café in the atmospheric, sev-
Sunday brunch until 4pm. enteenth-century Hôtel Hénault
de Cantobre.
L’Ebouillanté
6 rue des Barres. Tues–Sun noon–10pm, Mariage Frères
till 9pm in winter. A two-floor café 30 rue du Bourg-Tibourg. Daily
that spills onto the picturesque noon–7pm. A classy salon de thé on
rue des Barres in nice weather. the ground floor of this tea empo-
There’s an extensive choice of rium, decorated in neo-colonial
drinks, from delicious homemade style with rattan furniture.
hot chocolate to iced fruit cock-
tails, and snacks, including Le Pain Quotidien
Tunisian crêpes. 18 rue des Archives. Daily 8am–7pm.
A trendy café-bakery where you
MARIAGE FRERES TEA SHOP
Contents Places
114
have the option of rubbing closed Aug. Scoring 19 out of 20
shoulders with fellow diners at a in the gourmet’s bible Gault et
long, communal table d’hôte. It Millau, L’Ambroisie offers exqui-
specializes in hearty salads, site food in a magnificent dining
tartines (open sandwiches) and room hung with tapestries.
The Marais PLACES
excellent breads. Reckon on upwards of e200

and book well in advance.
Auberge de Jarente
Bars 7 rue Jarente t01.42.77.49.35.
Tues–Sat noon–2.30pm &
Le Central 7.30–10.30pm; closed Aug. This
33 rue Vieille-du-Temple. Mon–Thurs inexpensive and friendly Basque
4pm–2am. The oldest gay local in restaurant serves up first-class
the Marais. Small, friendly and food – cassoulet, hare stew, magret
always crowded with locals and de canard, and pipérade.
tourists.
Au Bourgignon du Marais
The Lizard Lounge 52 rue François Miron
18 rue du Bourg-Tibourg. Daily t01.48.87.15.40. Mon–Fri noon–3pm
noon–2am. A loud, lively, stone- & 8–11pm; closed two weeks in Aug.
walled bar on two levels; A warm, relaxed restaurant with
American-run and popular with tables outside in summer, serving
young expats. Especially busy excellent Burgundian cuisine
for Sunday brunch, featuring with carefully selected wines to
Bloody Marys. match. Prices slightly above
average. Booking advised.
Le Mixer
23 rue Sainte-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie. Le Coude Fou
Daily 5pm–2am. A popular and 12 rue du Bourg-Tibourg
crowded Marais bar, raising the t01.42.77.15.16. Daily noon–2.45pm
pulse of gay and straight pre- & 7.30–midnight. A popular, rea-
clubbers with its pounding sonably priced, laid-back wine
techno and house soundtrack. bistro, with wooden beams and
Le Petit Fer à Cheval RUE VIEILLE-DU-TEMPLE
30 rue Vieille-du-Temple. Mon–Fri

9am–2am, Sat & Sun 11am–2am; food
served noon–midnight. A very
attractive small bistrot-bar with
original fin-de-siècle decor.You
can snack on sandwiches or
light meals in the little back
room furnished with old wood-
en Métro seats.
Restaurants
L’Ambroisie
9 place des Vosges t01.42.78.51.45.
Tues–Sat noon–2pm & 7–10.15pm;
Contents Places
115
PLACES The Marais

LE PETIT FER A CHEVAL CAFE
brightly painted murals. ately priced restaurant with out-

Booking advisable at weekends. door seating on one of the
Marais’ most attractive squares.
Jo Goldenberg’s The cuisine revolves around
7 rue des Rosiers. Daily noon–2pm & central European/Jewish dishes
7.30pm–1.30am. Dating back to and you can sample a range of
the 1920s, this is the best- Polish flavoured vodkas – the
known Jewish restaurant in the honey one goes down a treat.
capital, serving decent borsch, bli-
nis, zakouski and apfel strudel, and Chez Omar
sometimes there’s live music, 47 Rue de Bretagne, t 01.42.72.36.26.
often a violin and guitar duo Daily except Sun lunch noon–2.30pm
playing jazz favourites. Prices & 7–11.30pm; no credit cards. A very
above average. popular, inexpensive North
African couscous restaurant in a
Piccolo Teatro nice old brasserie set with mir-
6 rue des Ecouffes t 01.42.72.17.79. rors, attracting a young crowd.
Tues–Sun noon–3pm & 7.15–11pm;
closed Aug. A great, inexpensive
vegetarian restaurant with low
lighting, stone walls and wooden Live music
beams.The speciality is gratins,
with poetic names such as Les 7 Lézards
douceur et tendresse (spinach, 10 rue des Rosiers t01.48.87.08.97,
mint, mozzarella and Gruyère). wwww.7lezards.com. Wed–Sat
Best to book at weekends. 7.15pm–2am; e10–16. A cosy and
intimate jazz club, attracting
Pitchi-Poï international and local acts.
7 rue Caron, cnr place du Marché-Ste- Also hosts the odd world music
Catherine t 01.42.77.46.15. Daily gig, and there’s a decent restau-
10am–midnight. A homely, moder- rant, too.
Contents Places
116
The Quartier Latin

The Quartier Latin has been associated with students
ever since the Sorbonne was established back in the
The Quartier Latin PLACES
thirteenth century. The odd name derives from the Latin

spoken at the medieval university, which perched on the
slopes of the Montagne Ste-Geneviève. Many colleges
remain in the area to this day, along with some fascinat-
ing vestiges of the medieval city, such as the Gothic
church of St-Séverin and the Renaissance Hôtel de
Cluny, site of the national museum of the Middle Ages.
Some of the quarter’s student chic may have worn thin
in recent years – notably around the now too-famous
place St-Michel – and high rents may have pushed
scholars and artists out of their garrets, but the quar-
ter’s cafés, restaurants and arty cinemas are still
packed with young people, making this one of the most
relaxed areas of Paris for going out.
The Huchette quarter entrance, while inside, the first

The touristy bustle is at its three pillars of the nave betray
worst around rue de la the earlier, thirteenth-century
Huchette, just east of the place origins of the church.
St-Michel, but look beyond the
cheap bars and over-priced The riverbank
Greek seafood-and-disco taver- The riverbank quais east of
nas and you’ll find some evoca- place St-Michel are ideal for
tive remnants of medieval Paris. wandering, and you can browse
Connecting rue de la Huchette among the books, postcards,
to the riverside is the incredibly
narrow rue du Chat-qui-Pêche, CHAPELLE STE-URSULE SORBONNE
a tiny slice of how Paris used

to look before Baron
Haussmann flattened the old
alleys to make room for his
wide boulevards.
The mainly fifteenth-century
church of St-Séverin is one of
the city’s more intense church-
es. Its Flamboyant choir rests on
a spiralling central pillar – a
virtuoso piece of stonework–
and its windows are filled with
edgy stained glass by the mod-
ern French painter Jean
Bazaine. The flame-like carving
that gave the Flamboyant (blaz-
ing) style its name flickers in
the window arch above the
Contents Places
117
a bold slice of
glass and steel that
betrays Nouvel’s
obsession with
light – its rectan-
PLACES The Quartier Latin

gular southern
facade comprises
thousands of tiny
light-sensitive
shutters that mod-
ulate the light
levels inside while
simultaneously
FLAMBOYANT VAULT AT ST-SEVERIN
mimicking a
moucharabiyah (traditional Arab
prints and assorted goods on latticework balcony).
sale from the bouquinistes, who Inside, it’s a cultural centre
display their wares in green, designed to further national
padlocked boxes hooked onto understanding of the Arab
the parapet. There are wonder- world. There are good tempo-
ful views of Notre-Dame rary exhibitions on Arab and
across the Seine, especially Islamic art and culture, and
from square Viviani – a wel- regular films and concerts,
come patch of grass with an often featuring leading per-
ancient, listing tree reputed to formers from the Arab world.
be Paris’s oldest, a false acacia But the heart of the institute is
brought over from Guyana in its sleek museum, which
1680. The mutilated church traces the evolution of Islamic
behind is St-Julien-le-Pauvre art and civilization. Brass
(daily 9.30am–12.30pm & celestial globes, astrolabes,
3–6.30pm), which used to be compasses and sundials illus-
the venue for university assem- trate cutting-edge Arab
blies until rumbustious students medieval science, while exquis-
tore it apart in 1524. For the itely crafted ceramics, metal-
most dramatic view of Notre- work and carpets from all over
Dame of all, walk along the the Muslim world cover the
riverbank as far as the tip of artistic side. Up on the ninth
the Ile St-Louis and the Pont floor, the terrace has brilliant
de Sully. views over the Seine towards
the apse of Notre-Dame.
Institut du Monde
INSTITUT DU MONDE ARABE
Arabe
Tues–Sun 10am–6pm;
museum E4.
wwww.imarabe.org. Many
visitors come to the
Institut du Monde
Arabe (IMA) just to
admire its stunning
design – the work of
Paris’s hippest archi-
tect, Jean Nouvel. On
the outside, the IMA is
Contents Places
118
ÎLE DE LA CITÉ
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RU École Nat. Sup.
E de Physique
9
The Musée National du tive sixteenth-century mansion

Moyen Age built by the abbots of the pow-
Entrance at 6 place Paul-Painlevé. Mon erful Cluny monastery as their
& Wed–Sun 9.15am–5.45pm. e5.50, Paris pied-à-terre, now houses
E4 on Sun. Concerts Fri 12.30pm & the richly rewarding Musée
Sat 4pm. w www.musee-moyenage.fr. National du Moyen Age.The
The Hôtel de Cluny, an attrac- museum is an amazing ragbag of
Contents Places
119
St
QU
AI D Pont Marie
ES
N CEL
ES T
IN
M EATING & DRINKING
S
Au Bistro de la
Sorbonne 13
Notre-Dame Brasserie Balzar 5
Au Buisson Ardent 17
RIE
Les Degrés de
MA
RU

E
Notre Dame 3
NT
ST
-LO
PO
UIS
-EN L’Ecurie 12
HE
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LE Les Fontaines 14
NT
-PO
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La Fourmi Ailée 2
UX
ÎLE ST-LOUIS
L’AR
Café de la Mosquée 21
DE
ES
T DE
O Café de la Nouvelle
ED
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RU
GRANDS-
Mairie 19
Musée de Café de I’lnstitute du
4
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l’Assistance Monde Arabe 7
RN
Publique Le Grenier de
RE
OU
IEV
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Notre-Dame 1
EB
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Perraudin 15
TD
RU
RD
PON
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LA T
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NEL La Petite Légume 16
NT
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LE PON LLY Le Piano Vache 11

E
PO
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B D S T- G E R M A I N DE Les Pipos 10
RU
LEM
Les Quatre et
AL
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Institut du Une Saveurs 20

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AR
RU
Monde Arabe Le Reflet 6

EC
SY
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Le Reminet 4
POIS
7
RU
Tashi Delek 18
DE
RD
RUE
RU
NA Le Violon Dingue 9
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DE -B
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Cardinal
Lemoine Universités
M Paris VI-Paris VII
16 17 Pierre et
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PL Marie Curie
M
LE
JUSSIEU
BOURUE DE
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LAN S
G ER Jussieu M RU
AR
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Ménagerie
UC
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RUE LINNE
Arènes EU
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de Lutèce
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ARENES
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MONGE
RUE RO
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R DE NAVARRE
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Jardin des
Paris Jazz
Corner Plantes
RUE LACEPEDE
Monge M
RUE
Grande Galerie
GEO
M de l’Évolution
FFRO
PL
RUE
MONGE
Y
GEOF
Muséum National
NGE
Paris d’Histoire
FROY
Naturelle
RUE MO
Mosque N
FO
S T- H
UF
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21 RU
ILAIR
TON
RU E DA UB EN
E
SIER
PL. DES CEN
PATRI- RU E
tapestries, carved choir stalls, late fifteenth-century tapesty

altarpieces, ivories, stained glass, series known as the Lady with
illuminated Books of Hours, the Unicorn, displayed in a spe-
games, brassware and all manner cially darkened, chapel-like
of precious objets d’art.The chamber on the first floor. Even
greatest wonder of the collec- if you don’t immediately grasp
tion is the exquisitely executed the tapestries’ allegorical
Contents Places
120
Place de la Sorbonne
The traffic-free place de la
Sorbonne is a great place to sit
back and enjoy the Quartier
Latin atmosphere, with its lime
trees, fountains, cafés and book-

toting students. Frowning over
it, however, are the high walls of
the Sorbonne, once the most
important of the medieval col-
leges huddled on the top of the
Montagne Ste-Geneviève and
more recently a flashpoint in the
1968 student riots.The frontage
is dominated by the Chapelle
Ste-Ursule, built in the 1640s by
the great Cardinal Richelieu,
whose tomb it contains. A
building of enormous influence
in Paris for its unabashed emu-
MUSEE DU MOYEN AGE ENTRANCE
lation of the Roman Counter-
Reformation style, it also helped
meaning – they represent the establish a trend for domes,
five senses – it’s hard not to be many more of which mush-
blown away by the sheer wealth roomed over the city’s skyline in
of detail and richness of colour. the latter part of the seventeenth
The meaning of the sixth and century.
final tapestry is something of a
mystery: the scene is of a The Panthéon
woman putting away her neck- Daily: April–Sept 10am–6.30pm;
lace into a jewellery box held Oct–March 10am–6pm. E7.
out by her servant, captioned Crowning the very top of the
with the words A Mon Seul Montagne Ste-Geneviève, the
Désir (“To My Only Desire”). largest and most visible of Paris’s
The building itself is part of
PANTHEON
the attraction of the visit: some
rooms are decorated in the
original style, and the
Flamboyant Gothic chapel pre-
serves its remarkable vault
splaying out from a central pil-
lar.You can also explore the
remains of Paris’s third-century
Roman baths, the Thermes
de Cluny, whose characteristic
rounded arches and stripey
brickwork can also be seen
from the boulevard St-Michel.
It’s worth timing your visit to
coincide with one of the excel-
lent concerts of medieval
music, often held inside the
museum.
Contents Places
121
ST-ETIENNE-DU-MONT
over a twenty-four-hour period,

it was in fact the earth beneath
it turning.
St-Etienne-du-Mont

The remains of two seven-
teenth-century literary giants,
Pascal and Racine, lie in the
church of St-Etienne-du-Mont,
alongside a few relics of Paris’s
early patron, Ste-Geneviève,
housed in a luxuriously
appointed chapel.The main
attraction, however, is the fabu-
lously airy interior, formed of a
Flamboyant Gothic choir joined
to a Renaissance nave, the two
parts linked by a sinuous cat-
walk that runs right round the
interior, arching across the
width of the nave in the form
of a carved rood screen – an
extremely rare survival, as most
domes graces the bulky French screens fell victim to
Panthéon, Louis XV’s thank-you Protestant iconoclasts, reformers
to Sainte Geneviève, patron or revolutionaries.
saint of Paris, for curing him of
illness.The building was com- Contrescarpe and rue
pleted only in 1789, whereupon Mouffetard
the Revolution promptly trans- Encircled by cafés, tiny place de
formed it into a mausoleum, la Contrescarpe is the focal
emblazoning the front with the point for the student nightlife of
words “Aux grands hommes la the Quartier Latin, and it’s a
patrie reconnaissante” (“The
RUE MOUFFETARD MARKET STALL
nation honours its great men”)
underneath the pediment of the
giant portico. Down in the vast,
barrel-vaulted crypt, you can
visit the tombs of French cul-
tural giants such as Voltaire,
Hugo and Zola, along with
more recent arrivals Marie
Curie – the only woman – and
Alexandre Dumas, author of The
Three Musketeers.
In the nave, you can also see a
working model of Foucault’s
Pendulum swinging from the
dome. French physicist Léon
Foucault devised the experi-
ment, conducted here in 1851,
to demonstrate that while the
pendulum appeared to rotate
Contents Places
122
pleasant spot to have a drink or never taken a public bath
a coffee during the day. before.You can also have a rea-
Stretching downhill from the sonably priced massage and gom-
square, the narrow, medieval rue mage – a kind of rubber-gloved
Mouffetard – rue Mouff ’ to rub-down for exfoliating.
locals – may not be the quintes- Afterwards, slip into the lovely,
sentially Parisian market street it gardened tearoom (open to all,
once was but it still offers an even if you haven’t used the
honest local ambience, lined hammam) for mint tea and
with clothes and shoe shops, a sweet pastries.
giant health food centre, and
lots of unpretentious bars and Jardin des Plantes
restaurants.The lower half of the Entrances at the corner of rues
street maintains a few grocers’ Geoffroy-St-Hilaire and Buffon and at
stalls, butcheries and speciality three points along rue Cuvier. Daily:
cheese shops, with a fruit-and- summer 7.30am–8pm; winter
veg market on Tuesday and 7.30am–dusk. The magnificent,
Saturday mornings. varied floral beds of the Jardin
des Plantes were founded as a
The Paris mosque medicinal herb garden in 1626
Entrance on rue Daubenton, at south- and gradually evolved into
east corner of the mosque. Daily except Paris’s botanical gardens, with
Fri & Muslim hols 9am–noon & 2–6pm. hothouses, shady avenues of
E3. Even in this quiet, residential trees, lawns, a brace of museums
area, the Paris mosque feels like and a zoo.
an oasis of serenity behind its The gardens make a pleasant
high, crenellated walls.You can place to while away the middle
walk in the sunken garden and of a day. Near the rue Cuvier
patios with their polychrome entrance stands a fine cedar of
tiles and carved ceilings, but Lebanon, planted in 1734 and
non-Muslims are asked not to raised from seed sent over from
enter the prayer room – though the Botanical Gardens in
no one seems to mind if you Oxford.There’s also a slice of an
watch from a discreet distance American sequoia more than
during prayers. 2000 years old, with the birth of
Christ and other historical
The Paris mosque’s hammam events marked on its rings. On a
39 rue Geoffrey-St-Hilaire. Women cold day there’s no better place
Mon, Wed, Thurs & Sat 10am–9pm, Fri to warm up than the hot and
2–9pm. Men Tues 2–9pm, Sun humid winter garden, a green-
10am–9pm. Times may vary, check in house filled with palms, cacti
advance. e15, towels extra. The and chattering birds.
excellent hammam in the Paris
mosque, entered via the gate in Grande Galerie de l’Evolution
the southeast corner, is one of Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle,
the most atmospheric baths in Jardin des Plantes. w www.mnhn.fr/
the city, with its vaulted cool- evolution. Mon & Wed–Sun
ing-off room and marble-lined 10am–6pm, Thurs 10am–10pm. E7.
steam chamber. It’s usually quiet Part of the Muséum National
inside, the clients focused on d’Histoire Naturelle, and by far
washing and simply relaxing, so its most impressive section, is
the atmosphere shouldn’t feel the Grande Galerie de
intimidating, even if you’ve l’Evolution. It occupies the
Contents Places
123
GRANDE GALERIE DE L’EVOLUTION

nineteenth-century Galerie de Arènes de Lutèce
Zoologie, an enormous, dark The Arènes de Lutèce is an
space surrounded by tier upon unexpected and peaceful back-
tier of glass and iron balconies, water hidden from the streets.
dramatically lit by glowing spot- Once a Roman amphitheatre
lights.The museum tells the for ten thousand, it is now the
story of evolution and the rela- only structure from that period
tions between human beings left in Paris besides the Gallo-
and nature with the aid of a Roman baths (see p.120). A few
huge cast of life-size animals ghostly rows of stone seats now
that parade across the central look down on boules players,
space.The wow-factor may ini- while benches, gardens and a
tally grab children’s attention, kids’ playground stand behind.
but you’ll have to look out for
the translation placards to make
the most of the visit.
Shops
The Ménagerie
Northeast corner of the Jardin des Abbey Bookshop/La Librairie
Plantes. Summer Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Canadienne
Sun 9am–6.30pm; winter Mon–Sat 29 rue de la Parcheminerie. Mon–Sat
9am–5pm, Sun 9am–5.30pm. E6. 10am–7pm. A Canadian
The Ménagerie is France’s old- bookshop with lots of
est zoo – and feels it.The iron secondhand British and North
cages of the big cats’ fauverie, the American fiction, plus
stinky vivarium and the glazed- knowledgeable and helpful staff
in primate house are distinctly – and free coffee.
old-fashioned, though most of
the rest of the zoo is pleasantly Crocodisc
park-like, given over to deer, 40–42 rue des Ecoles. Tues–Sat 11am–
antelope, goats, buffaloes and 7pm. Folk, Oriental,Afro-Antillais,
other marvellous beasts that raï, funk, reggae, salsa, hip-hop,
seem happy enough in their soul and country music, both
outdoor enclosures. new and secondhand, at some of
the best prices in town.
Contents Places
The Quartier Latin PLACES 124
GIBERT JEUNE
Gibert Jeune One of the city’s most compre-

10 place St-Michel & 27 quai St- hensive health-food stores, with
Michel. Mon–Sat 10am–7pm. The everything from organic pro-
biggest of the Quartier Latin duce to herbal teas.
student/academic bookshops
with a vast selection of French Shakespeare & Co
books.There’s a fair English-lan- 37 rue de la Bûcherie. Daily noon–mid-
guage and discounted selection night. A cosy, famous literary
at Gibert Joseph, 26 bd St- haunt, American-run – by the
Michel. An institution. gransdon of Walt Whitman –
with the biggest selection of
Librairie Gourmande secondhand English books in
4 rue Dante. Daily 10am–7pm. The town. Also holds poetry readings
very last word in books on cook- and the like.
ery and food in general, with a
decent English-language selection.
Paris Jazz Corner Cafés

5 & 7 rue Navarre. Mon–Sat
noon–8pm. Great collection of Café de la Mosquée
jazz and blues, with lots of sec- 39 rue Geoffroy-St-Hilaire. Daily
ondhand vinyl.Worth visiting 9am–11pm. Drink mint tea and
for the dustily dedicated atmos- eat sweet cakes beside a fountain
phere of the shop alone, which and assorted fig trees in the
faces the Arènes de Lutèce. courtyard of this Paris mosque –
a delightful haven of calm.The
Rendez-Vous de la Nature salon has a beautiful Arabic inte-
96 rue Mouffetard. Tues–Sat rior, while full meals are served
9.30am–7.30pm, Sun 9.30am–1pm. in the adjoining restaurant.
Contents Places
125
La Fourmi Ailée d’agneau, linguine and salads, and
8 rue du Fouarre, on sq Viviani. Daily you can drink at the outside
noon–midnight. Simple, light fare is tables on sunny days.
served in this former bookshop,
now transformed into a relaxed Le Reflet

salon de thé. The high ceiling, 6 rue Champollion. Daily 10am–2am.
painted with a lovely mural, and This artsy cinema café has a
a book-filled wall contribute to strong flavour of the nouvelle
the atmosphere. Serves inexpen- vague, with its scruffy black paint
sive plats du jour. scheme, lights rigged up on a
gantry overhead and rickety
Café de l’Institut du tables packed with arty film-goers
Monde Arabe and chess players. Good steaks,
Institut du Monde Arabe. Tues–Sun quiches, salads and the like from a
10am–6pm. Amazing rooftop short list of blackboard specials.
café-restaurant where you can
drink mint tea and nibble on
cakes in the sunshine. Inside the
building, the self-service cafete- Restaurants
ria Moucharabiyah offers a good
plate of lunchtime couscous and Au Bistro de la Sorbonne
the chance to marvel at the 4 rue Toullier t 01.43.54.41.49. Daily
aperture action of the windows. noon–2.30pm & 7–11pm. Traditional
French and delicious North
Café de la Nouvelle Mairie African food served at reason-
19 rue des Fossés-St-Jacques. Mon, able prices to a crowd of locals
Wed & Fri 9am–10pm, Tues & Thurs and students.The muralled inte-
9am–11pm. Sleek café-wine bar rior is attractively bright.
with a relaxed feel generated by
its older, university-based clien- Brasserie Balzar
tele. Serves good, reasonably 49 rue des Ecoles t 01.43.54.13.67.
priced food such as curry Daily 8am–11.30pm. This mirrored,
SHAKESPEARE & CO
Contents Places
126
high-ceilinged brasserie is fes- with honest French meat and
tooned with pot plants in the fish dishes, or game in season, all
classic style. Earlier on, the at reasonable prices.
atmosphere can be quite
touristy, but if you choose to eat Le Grenier de Notre-Dame
late it becomes almost intimi- 18 rue de la Bûcherie

datingly Parisian – which about t01.43.29.98.29. Mon–Sat noon–3pm
fits the decor and the menu. & 7.30–10.30pm. Vegetarians’ opin-
Prices are fairly expensive for a ions are divided: some love this
traditional brasserie, but you tiny, candle-lit place; others find
won’t break the bank. it cramped and the atmosphere
too eagerly created. Dishes are
Au Buisson Ardent substantial and fairly inexpensive,
25 rue Jussieu t 01.43.54.93.02. including traditional French fare
Mon–Fri 12.30–2.30pm & 7.30–10pm, made with tofu and unrecon-
Sat 7.30–10pm; closed two weeks in structed vegetarian classics such
Aug. Copious helpings of inven- as cauliflower cheese.
tive, first-class cooking served in
a warm-coloured, pleasantly tra- Perraudin
ditional dining room. Prices are 157 rue St-Jacques t 01.46.33.15.75.
moderate. Reservations recom- Mon–Fri noon–2pm & 7.30–10.15pm;
mended. closed last fortnight in Aug. One of
the classic bistrots of the Left
Les Degrés de Notre Dame Bank.The atmosphere is thick
10 rue des Grands Degrés with Parisian chatter floating
t 01.55.42.88.88. Mon–Sat above the brightly lit, packed-in
noon–2.30pm & 7.30–10.30pm. This tables. Solid cooking, with mod-
reliable, informal little restaurant erately priced menus. No reser-
serves substantial and very inex- vations.
pensive French food. Good for a
cosy lunch-stop. Le Petit Prince
12 rue Lanneau t 01.43.54.77.26.
L’Ecurie Mon–Thurs & Sun 7.30pm–midnight,
58 rue de la Montagne Ste-Geneviève, Fri & Sat 7.30pm–12.30am. The
cnr rue Laplace. Mon–Sat noon–3pm & Little Prince serves moderately
7pm–midnight, Sun 7pm–midnight. priced, classic French food with
Shoehorned into a former sta- occasionally inventive combina-
bles on a particularly lovely cor- tions that can be hit and miss.
ner of the Montagne Ste- Most of the tables are hidden
Geneviève, this small, family-run away at the cosy end of the
restaurant is bustling and very restaurant, where there’s often a
lovable. Expect well-cooked, good-time atmosphere created
inexpensive meat dishes served by a fairly camp crowd.
without flourishes.
La Petite Légume
Les Fontaines 36 rue Boulangers t 01.40.46.06.85.
9 rue Soufflot. Mon–Sat noon–3pm & Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm & 7.30–10pm.
7.30–10.30pm. The brasserie A health-food grocery that dou-
decor looks unpromising from bles as a vegetarian restaurant
the outside, but the welcome and tearoom, serving homely,
inside this family-owned place is inexpensive organic plats, along
warm and genuine, and the with fresh-tasting organic Loire
cooking is in the same spirit, wines.
Contents Places
127
Les Quatre et Une Saveurs crammed with students drinking
72 rue du Cardinal-Lemoine at little tables, with French rock
t 01.43.26.88.80. Mon–Thurs & Sat or dance-based music on the
noon–2.30pm & 7–10.30pm, Fri CD-player and a laid-back,
noon–2.30pm. One of the best grungey atmosphere.

vegetarian choices in the city,
with a moderately priced and Les Pipos
inventive menu full of high- 2 rue de l’Ecole-Polytechnique.
class, organic, vegetarian choices. Mon–Sat 8am–1am; closed two weeks
in Aug. Old, carved wooden bar
Le Reminet in a long-established position
3 rue des Grands Degrés opposite the gates of the former
t 01.44.07.04.24. Mon & Thurs–Sun grande école. Serves well-priced
noon–2.30pm &7.30–11pm; closed wines along with simple plates
two weeks in Aug. Snowy-white of Auvergnat charcuterie, cheese
tablecloths and fancy chandeliers and the like.
add a touch of class to this little
bistro-restaurant, and imagina- Le Violon Dingue
tive sauces grace high-quality 46 rue de la Montagne Ste-Geneviève.
traditional French ingredients. daily 6pm–2.30am, happy hour
By no means a budget bistro, 8–10pm. A long, dark student
but excellent value all the same. pub that’s also popular with
young travellers. Noisy and
Tashi Delek friendly, with English-speaking
4 rue des Fossés-St-Jacques bar staff and cheap drinks.The
t01.43.26.55.55. Mon–Sat cellar bar stays open until
noon–2.30pm & 7–11pm; closed two 4.30am on busy nights.
weeks in Aug. Elegantly styled
Tibetan restaurant serving hearty,
warming noodle soups and the
addictive, ravioli-like momok. Live music
There is even yak-butter tea, a
salty, soupy concoction that’s an Caveau de la Huchette
acquired taste.You can eat well 5 rue de la Huchette t 01.43.26.65.05.
for remarkably little money. A wonderful slice of old
Parisian life in an otherwise
touristy area. Live jazz, usually
trad and big band, to dance to
Bars on a floor surrounded by tiers
of benches. Daily 9.30pm–2am,
Le Piano Vache but best at weekends. Entrance
8 rue Laplace. Mon–Fri noon–2am, Sat around E15.
& Sun 9pm–2am. Venerable bar
Contents Places
128
St-Germain
St-Germain, the westernmost section of Paris’s Left
Bank, has long been famous as the haunt of bohemians
St-Germain PLACES
and intellectuals. A few well-known cafés preserve a

strong flavour of the old times, but the dominant spirit
these days is elegant, relaxed and seriously upmarket.
At opposite ends of the quarter are two of the city’s
busiest and best-loved sights: to the east, bordering the
Quartier Latin, spread the exquisite lawns of the Jardin
du Luxembourg, while to the west stands the Musée
d’Orsay, a converted railway station with a world-beat-
ing collection of Impressionist paintings. Between the
two, you can visit the churches of St-Sulpice and St-
Germain-des-Prés, or intriguing museums dedicated
to the artists Delacroix and Maillol, but really, shop-
ping is king. The streets around place St-Sulpice
swarm with international fashion brands, while on the
north side of boulevard St-Germain antique shops and
art dealers dominate. Between shopping sprees, you
can explore the quartier’s excellent cafés and bars,
among which you’ll find some Parisian classics.
Pont des Arts students sprawl about on the
The delicate and much-loved garden’s famous metal chairs,
Pont des Arts was installed in children sail toy yachts, watch the
Napoleon’s time. It offers a puppets at the guignol, or run
classic upstream view of the Ile about in the playgrounds, and old
de la Cité, and also provides a men gather to play boules or
grand entrance to St-Germain chess. In summer, the most
under the watchful eye of the contested spots are the shady
Institut de France, an august Fontaine de Médicis in the
academic institution whose northeast corner, and the lawns of
members are known as the southernmost strip – one of
“Immortals”. the few areas where you’re
allowed to lie out on the grass.
The Jardin du Luxembourg The quieter, wooded southwest
Daily dawn to dusk. Fronting onto corner is dotted with the works
rue de Vaugirard, Paris’s longest
street, the Jardin du Luxembourg JARDIN DU LUXEMBOURG
is the chief lung of the Left Bank.

Its atmosphere is a beguiling
mixture of formal and utterly
relaxed.At the park’s centre, the
perfectly round pond and
immaculate floral parterres are
overlooked by the haughty Palais
du Luxembourg, the seat of the
French Senate. Elsewhere,
Contents Places
129
ST-GERMAIN STREET SCENE
Deux Magots is all that remains

of a once-enormous Benedictine
monastery. Inside the adjoining
church of St-Germain-des-Prés,
the transformation from
PLACES St-Germain
Romanesque nave to early
Gothic choir is just about visible
under the heavy green and gold
nineteenth-century paintwork.
The last chapel on the south
side contains the tomb of the
philosopher René Descartes,
while in the corner of the
churchyard by rue Bonaparte, a
little Picasso sculpture of a
woman’s head is dedicated to the
poet Apollinaire.
of famous sculptors, and ends in a
miniature orchard of elaborately Musée Delacroix
espaliered pear trees. 6 rue de Furstenberg W www.musee
-delacroix.fr. Daily except Tues
Musée du Luxembourg 9.30am–5pm. E4. The Musée
19 rue de Vaugirard T 01.42.34.25.95, Delacroix occupies the house
W www.museeduluxembourg.fr. The where the artist lived and
Musée du Luxembourg lies at worked from 1857 until his
the top end of Paris’s longest death in 1863, and still displays
street, rue de Vaugirard, backing his paintbox alongside other
onto the park. It holds curiosities and personal effects.
temporary art exhibitions that Although Delacroix’s major
rank among the most ambitious work is exhibited permanently
in Paris – recent shows have at the Louvre (see p.76) and the
included Raphael, Gauguin, Musée d’Orsay (see p.132), this
Modigliani and Botticelli. museum displays a refreshingly
Check for opening hours. intimate collection of small-
scale paintings, watercolours,
Place St-Germain-des-Prés drawings and frescoes, and holds
The hub of the quartier is place good temporary exhibitions on
St-Germain-des-Prés, with the Delacroix and his
famous café Les Deux Magots on contemporaries.
one corner, and Café Flore and
Brasserie Lipp just a stone’s throw St-Sulpice
away. All three are renowned for Place St-Sulpice. Daily 7.30am–
the number of intellectual and 7.30pm. It took over a hundred
literary backsides that have years to build the enormous
shined their seats, and are church of St-Sulpice, and it
expensive and extremely remains incomplete, with uncut
crowded in summer. masonry blocks still protruding
from the south tower, awaiting
St-Germain-des-Prés the sculptor’s chisel.The facade
Place St-Germain-des-Prés. Daily is rather overpoweringly
7.30am–7.30pm. The ancient classical, but any severity is
tower overlooking place St- softened by the chestnut trees
Germain-des-Prés opposite Les and fountain of the peaceful
Contents Places
130
place St-Sulpice, and the crowds slaying a dragon, found in the
at the outside tables of the Café first chapel on the right.
de la Mairie, on the sunny side of
the square.The best thing about The rue Mabillon grid
the gloomy interior are the The miniature group of streets
St-Germain PLACES
three Delacroix murals, immediately north of St-Sulpice

including one of St Michael – rue des Canettes, rue
1
Musée d’Orsay
N
Institut des Langues et QUAI
MALA
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E
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LA
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T
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EATING & DRINKING

RUE
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RCH
Le 10 16 PLA C E
HE
ST SULPICE
UC
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ED
BAB
RUE
Café
SQ du Luxembourg 19
RU
E DE BOUCICAUT
Bar du Marché 7
Café de la Mairie 17 Mairie du
Café
M
Mabillon 12 6e
Chez Georges 15
S
LesSèvres
NE
Deux Magots 10
RU
Babylone
REN
ES
Au Bon Les Étages St-Germain 8

A
Café Flore 9
IN
Marché
DE
T-
PL
R
ES AC Jacques Cagna 5 DE
D
RUE
VR
U
ID
BD
SÉ Lipp 11 E
PI
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DE RU
N
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RAS
RUE
E
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RU
RU
À la Petite Chaise 14
D'
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PA I
AS
DU
Le Petit St-Benoît 3
RUE GU
EL
’A
SA
L
BB
Le Petit Zinc 6
REG
Le Mouton
ÉG
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RUE MADA
à Cinq Pattes Polidor 18 M Rennes

GO
ARD
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IR
Le Procope 13
E
La Taverne de Nesle 4
MER
ME
D Montparnasse & Maison des Cultures

Gare
DE
I
R
ID
A
M
Contents Places
131
Princesse and rue Mabillon – is boutiques, which start with
particularly glossy, with lots of Agnès B and the very elegant
rather expensive bistrot Yves Saint Laurent Rive
restaurants, little boutiques and Gauche on the corner of place
bars packed into the pretty old St-Sulpice itself, and spread west
PLACES St-Germain
houses.The main attraction, from there.
however, is the array of fashion
Pont Neuf
M
S ARTS
UF
R iv e r S e i n e
T NE
PONT DE
PON
SQ DU
PL DE VERT
QU GALANT
L'INSTITUT AI ÎLE DE LA CITÉ
Institut de DE PL
DAUPHINE Palais
UF
France
T NE
CO de Justice
NT
PON
I
Hôtel des
Monnaies
RU
Ste-
E
S
AU
Chapelle
MA
ER
BEAUX-ARTS QU
EG
EV
A
EN
ZA
I
N
R U
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GU
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VISCONTI AN
TIN
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-A
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US
RU
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RUE C
MA
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HRISTI
4 NE
I N
GRA
ZA
Musée PL
E
5
LE C
R
RIN
R U
ST-MICHEL
AUDE
E
Delacroix
RUE DES
GIT
M
E
RM
DE L'ECH
RUE
St-Michel
AZET COUR D
7
DE BUCI ARTS
RUE RUE SAINT ANDRE DES M
St Germain- 8 PL ST ANDRE
DES ARTS
RUE DE L'EPERON
des Prés RUE ST

RD
RUE GREGOIRE DE TOURS
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RUE
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B D S T- M
RU
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RUE
RUE P
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LOBI
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RUE CE
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RUE DE CON
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RU
PL DE Lycée St-
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RUE SE
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IER
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RUE DE VAUGIRARD SORBONNE

FERO
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RU
U
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Palais du UJ AS
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Luxembourg Fontaine
IS
PL
de Médicis EDMOND
ROSTANO RUE SOU
Orangerie 19 FFLO T
Tennis
Courts & Pond 0 200 m
Playground R Luxembourg
Jardin du Luxembourg
s du Monde
Contents Places
132
Musée Maillol
61 rue de Grenelle W www
.museemailloil.com. Daily except Tues
11am–6pm. E7. An outwardly
inconspicuous eighteenth-
St-Germain PLACES
century house is now the home

of the Musée Maillol, its
interior bursting with Aristide
Maillol’s buxom sculptures of
female nudes, of which the
smoothly curvaceous
Mediterranean is his most famous.
Other rooms house drawings by
Matisse, Dufy and Bonnard,
humorously erotic paintings by
Bombois, and the odd Picasso,
Degas, Gauguin and Kandinsky. MUSEE D’ORSAY
The museum also organizes
excellent exhibitions of Femmes au Jardin (1867) and
twentieth-century art, among Manet’s provocative Olympia
which have been Frida Kahlo (1863), which heralded the
and Diego Rivera. arrival of the new school.
Impressionism proper packs
The Musée d’Orsay the attic-like upper level, with
1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur famous images such as Monet’s
W www.musee-orsay.fr. Tues–Sun Poppies and Femme à l’Ombrelle,
9am–6pm, Thurs to 9.45pm; mid-Sept Manet’s Déjeuner sur l’Herbe,
to mid-June opens at 10am. e7 Degas’ L’Absinthe, and Renoir’s
Mon–Sat, E5 Sun, free to under-18s Bal du Moulin de la Galette.
and on first Sun of the month. Down You’ll also find some of Degas’
on the riverfront, just west of wonderful sculptures of ballet-
St-Germain, the Musée d’Orsay dancers and a host of
dramatically fills a former small-scale landscapes and
railway station with paintings outdoor scenes by Renoir,
and sculptures dating from Sisley, Pissarro and Monet that
between 1848 and 1914, owed much of their brilliance
including an unparalleled to the novel practice of setting
Impressionist and Post- up easels in the open. More
Impressionist collection.The heavyweight masterpieces can
museum’s ground floor, spread be found by Monet and Renoir
out under the giant glass arch, is in their middle and late periods,
devoted to pre-1870 work, Van Gogh and Cézanne, as well
contrasting Ingres, Delacroix as a dimly lit section devoted to
and other serious-minded pastels by Degas, Redon,
painters with the relatively Manet, Mondrian and others.
wacky works of Puvis de The final suite of rooms on this
Chavannes, Gustave Moreau and level begins with Rousseau’s
the younger Degas. On the dreamlike La Charmeuse de
other side of the tracks, as it Serpent (1907) and continues
were, the Barbizon school and past Gauguin’s ambivalent
the Realists prepare the ground Tahitian paintings to Pointillist
for Impressionism, along with works by Seurat, Signac and
Monet’s violently light-filled others, ending with Toulouse-
Contents Places
133
Lautrec at his caricaturial 9am–7pm; closed Aug. This
nightclubbing best. beautiful, ancient shop
Down on the middle level is specializes in exquisite,
a disparate group of paintings, expensive dark chocolates. Open
including the Art Nouveau since 1800, it now offers an
PLACES St-Germain
Nabis, notably Bonnard and e-shopping service.
Vuillard, some international
Symbolist paintings, and lots of Le Mouton à Cinq Pattes
late-nineteenth-century Men 138 bd St-Germain, women 8 &
painting from the naturalist 18 rue St-Placide. Mon–Sat
schools. 10am–7pm. A classic bargain
Bridging the parallel sculpture clothing address, with racks
terraces, the Rodin terrace upon racks of end-of-line and
puts almost everything else to reject clothing from designer
shame. Finally, try to spare some names both great and small.You
energy for the half-dozen might find a shop-soiled
adjacent rooms filled with Gaultier classic; you might find
superb Art Nouveau furniture nothing. At these prices, it’s
and objets d’art. worth the gamble.
Poilâne
Shops 8 rue du Cherche-Midi. Mon–Sat
7.15am–8.15pm. This extremely
Au Bon Marché classy bakery is the ultimate
38 rue de Sèvres. Mon–Fri source of the famous “Pain
9.30am–7pm, Sat to 8pm. The Poilâne”, and a great place for
oldest department store in Paris, other bakery treats, too.
founded in 1852, and one of its
most upmarket – in fact, it’s Village Voice
famous for having a name 6 rue Princesse. Mon 2–8pm, Tues–Sat
meaning the opposite of what it 10am–8pm, Sun 2–7pm. A
really is (bon marché in French welcoming re-creation of an
means “cheap”).The food hall is American neighbourhood
legendary and there’s an bookstore, with a good selection
excellent kids’ department. of contemporary fiction and
non-fiction, and a decent list of
Barthélémy British and American poetry
51 rue de Grenelle. Tues–Sat and classics.
8am–1pm & 4–7.15pm; closed Aug.
Purveyors of cheeses POILANE BAKERY
to the rich and
powerful. Madame
Bathélémy herself is
on hand in the
mornings to offer
expert advice on
choosing and caring
for your cheese.
Debauve & Gallais

30 rue des Sts-Pères
W www.debauve-et
-gallais.com. Mon–Sat
Contents Places
134
Cafés
Bar du Marché
75 rue de Seine. Daily 7am–2am.
Humming café where the waiters
St-Germain PLACES
are funkily kitted out in flat caps

and bright aprons.Admittedly, you
pay a little extra for the location
near the rue de Buci market.
Café des Hauteurs

Musée d’Orsay, Upper Level. Mon–Wed
& Fri–Sun 10am–5pm, Thurs
10am–9pm. This café in the
Musée d’Orsay has a summer LES DEUX MAGOTS
terrace and a wonderful view of
Montmartre through the giant keeps up a fashionable, vaguely
railway clock. Serves tea, cakes, intellectual reputation. Best
sandwiches and snacks. enjoyed in the late-afternoon
sunshine, or upstairs among the
Café du Luxembourg regulars. Beware of the prices.
Hours vary according to park opening
times. This delightful, tree- Le Procope
shaded buvette serves hot and 13 rue de l’Ancienne-Comédie. Daily
cold drinks right through the noon–1am. Opened in 1686 as
day. Situated northeast of the the first establishment to serve
pond, in the heart of the Jardin coffee in Paris, it is still a great
du Luxembourg. Prices are place to enjoy a cup and bask in
high, but not unfairly so. the knowledge that over the
years Voltaire, Benjamin
Café de la Mairie Franklin, Rousseau, Marat and
Place St-Sulpice. Mon–Sat 7am–2am. Robespierre, among others, have
Situated on the north side of done the very same thing.
the square, this not unduly Decent but rather overpriced
pricey café is famous for the meals are served, too.
beautiful people sun-seeking on
the outdoor terrasse.
Bars
Les Deux Magots
170 bd St-Germain. Daily 7.30am–1am. Le 10
Right on the corner of place St- 10 rue de l’Odéon. Daily 6pm–2am.
Germain-des-Prés, this expensive Classic Art Deco-era posters line
café is the victim of its own the walls of this small dark bar,
reputation as the historic hang- and the theme is continued in
out of Left Bank intellectuals, but the atmospheric cellar bar,
it’s still great for people-watching. where there’s a lot of chatting-
up among the studenty and
Café Flore international clientele.
172 bd St-Germain. Daily 7am–1.30am.
The great rival and immediate Café Mabillon
neighbour of Les Deux Magots. 164 bd St-Germain. Daily
Sartre, de Beauvoir and Camus 7.30am–6.30am. Posey café-bar that
used to hang out here, and it pulls in modish Parisians and
Contents Places
135
international types. Best for a the haunt of the successful and
quick, pricey cocktail. famous, with a wonderful 1900s
wood-and-glass interior. Plats du
Chez Georges jour, including the famous
11 rue des Canettes. Tues–Sat sauerkraut, are decent and not
PLACES St-Germain
noon–2am; closed Aug. Deeply old- overpriced, but the full menu is
fashioned, tobacco-stained wine very expensive. No reservations,
bar with its old shopfront still in so be prepared to wait.
place.The downstairs bar attracts
a younger, beery crowd that stays A la Petite Chaise
lively well into the small hours. 36 rue de Grenelle T 01.42.22.13.35.
Relatively inexpensive for the Daily noon–2.30pm & 7.30–10.30pm.
area. Refined, upmarket bistro with
an elegant decor.The simple,
Les Etages St-Germain good-value menu gives centre
5 rue de Buci. Daily 11am–2am. stage to the food: classic,
Outpost of boho trendiness at the carefully cooked French dishes,
edge of the rue de Buci street with lots of duck and foie gras.
market, with a certain trashy
glamour.The downstairs café-bar Le Petit St-Benoît
is open to the street, and in the 4 rue St-Benoît T01.42.60.27.92.
evenings you can lounge around Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm & 7–10.30pm.
upstairs with a cocktail. A tobacco-stained St-Germain
institution where aproned servers
La Taverne de Nesle deliver hearty and, at times, quite
32 rue Dauphine. Mon–Thurs & Sun heavy traditional fare. Reasonable
6pm–4am, Fri & Sat to 5am. Full of value for the location.
local night owls fuelled up by
happy hour cocktails (at around Polidor
e7) and beers (just over e3). 41 rue Monsieur-le-Prince
Gets busier during student terms, T01.43.26.95.34. Mon–Sat
especially at weekends when DJs noon–2.30pm & 7pm–12.30am, Sun
take to the decks. noon–2.30pm & 7–11pm. A
traditional bistro, open since
1845, whose visitors’ book, they
Restaurants say, boasts more of history’s big
names than all the glittering
Jacques Cagna palaces put together. Packed with
14 rue des Grands-Augustins noisy regulars until late in the
T01.43.26.49.39, Wwww.jacques evening enjoying meaty Parisian
cagna.com. Mon & Sat 7–10.30pm, classics on the excellent-value
Tues–Fri noon–2pm & 7–10.30pm menus. Lunch is a real bargain.
Classy surroundings for very
classy and very expensive food –
beef with Périgord truffles and Live music
the like.The midday menu,
however, is relatively inexpensive Maison des Cultures du Monde
for cuisine at this level. 101 bd Raspail T01.45.44.72.30, Wwww
.mcm.asso.fr. Showcases all the arts
Lipp from all over the world.Also runs
151 bd St-Germain. Daily noon–1am. its own world music label, Inedit,
One of the most celebrated of all and holds a festival of world
the classic Paris brasseries, and still theatre and music in March.
Contents Places
136
The Eiffel Tower area

Between St-Germain and the Eiffel Tower, the atmos-
phere of the Left Bank changes. Gone are the little
The Eiffel Tower area PLACES
boutique bars and bistro-restaurants, and in their place

are elegant aristocratic mansions and some of the city’s
most magnificent public monuments. The Eiffel Tower
dominates the entire area, its giant scale matched by
the sweeping lawns of the Champs de Mars, the 109-
metre arch of the Pont Alexandre III and the great mili-
tary edifices of Les Invalides and the Ecole Militaire.
But it’s not all inhuman in scale. Right at the foot of the
Tower is the village-like oasis of shops and restaurants
around the rue Cler market.
The Eiffel Tower second level, but there’s

Daily: mid-June to Aug 9am–midnight; something irresistible about
Sept to mid-June 9.30am–11pm. Top taking the lift all the way up
level e10.20; second level e7, or (though be sure to arrive well
e3.30 by stairs; first level e3.70. before 10.30pm, when access
wwww.tour-eiffel.fr. It’s hard to to the lifts is closed; note too
believe that the Eiffel Tower, the that the stairs to the second
quintessential symbol both of level close at 6pm from Sept to
Paris and the brilliance of mid-June). Paris looks surreally
industrial engineering, was microscopic from the top, the
designed to be a temporary boulevards looking like leafy
structure for a fair, the 1889 canyons and the parks and
Exposition Universelle.When cemeteries like oases of green.
completed, the tower was the The paint scheme may now be
tallest building in the world, at dull brown, but the lighting is
300m. Outraged critics
protested against this “grimy THE EIFFEL TOWER
factory chimney”, though Eiffel

himself (not surprisingly)
thought it was beautiful in its
sheer structural efficiency: “To a
certain extent,” he wrote, the
tower was formed by the wind
itself.”
Unless you get there ahead of
the opening times, or go on a
cloudy or rainy day, you’re
bound to queue at the bottom,
for lifts at the changeovers, and
again when descending. It’s
absolutely worth it, however,
not just for the view, but for
the sheer exhilaration of being
inside the structure. The views
are usually clearer from the
Contents Places
L ALMA
D
-W de Tokyo d Art Moderne
ENT
ONT
ESID
COR
U PR
Site de Création
adéro D
AV
PON
ONT DES
NDRE III
AV
VALIDES
CON T DE
Contemporaine
K
YOR River Seine Q U A I D ' O R S AY
Palais de N EW
DE Sewers
D
R UE Assemblée
Chaillot
SER
Pont de l'Alma R entrance Ministère des Nationale
PL DE LA
ELL
PAS EBILLY
E
RESISTANCE Q U A I D ' O R S AY Affaires Etrangères
The American QU
Jardins M
du ine
RUE COGN
ACQ J AY
Church in Paris
e Invalides R Assemblée
Contents
Trocadéro Musée du
RUE
rS Nationale
ve Quai Branly R UE D E L 'U NIVE R S ITE
Ri LY RUE DE M M
JEAN
RUE SUR
N L'UN IVER SITE
A
RUE
SITE
P
R
B IV E R
COU
M
L 'U N Ministère de
F
PL DE I DE
A E
A V
VARSOVIE
ALA
U RU Esplanade la Défense
R A P
NICO
Q
T
des
E N
PO
IQUE
NT
AV RUE
OMIN Invalides Institut
MAUBOURG
D'
S T- D S T-
U E
D
N U E
E RUE 1 DO
IEN
Géographique
A
MI
Eiffel Tower LA NI
RUE
BO National St-Clotilde QU
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A V E
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SED
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N SQ IN
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Places
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Les Invalides
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Tour Eiffel DE DE
IVIER
A
LA E 4
BD
RU
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BO RU R Musée de Musée M Varenne
E MA
QU
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CHA l’Armée des Plans-
RUE
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Maison de AI
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du Japon R U E JE A E N E D
S AV Champ de Mars EATING & DRINKING Ecole Musée E
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Australian
RU
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F Au Babylone 5 Militaire Rodin NE
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Matignon
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AV
BD DES IINV ALID
UE
Thoumieux 1
R
137
PL A 5
U
& 6
AV
morial to JOFFRE ET
V
Jewish U
DE
CQ
eportees PI
VIL
E
PLACES The Eiffel Tower area
TT
LA
UE VANEA
O
R
M
138
more spectacular than ever. The
dramatic sweeping searchlight
that originally crowned the top
has been restored, and for the
first ten minutes of every hour
The Eiffel Tower area PLACES
from dusk until 2am (1am in

winter), thousands of miniature
lamps strobe on and off,
making the whole structure
explode with effervescent light.
The Sewers
May–Sept Mon–Wed, Sat & Sun
11am–5pm; rest of year Mon–Wed,
Sat & Sun 11am–4pm. e3.80. On
the northeast side of the busy
junction of place de la
Résistance, is the entrance to
one of Paris’s more unique
attractions a small, visitable
section of the sewers, or les
égouts. Once you’re
underground it’s dark, damp
and noisy with gushing water,
but children may be LES INVALIDES
disappointed to find that it’s
not too smelly. The main part community, its noticeboard
of the visit runs along a gantry usualy plastered with job and
walk poised above a main accommodation offers and
sewer, displaying photographs, demands.
lamps, specialized sewermen’s Just to the south, and in stark
tools and other antique flotsam contrast to the austerity of
and jetsam which turn the much of the rest of the
history of the city’s water quarter, is the attractive,
supply and waste management villagey wedge of early
into a surprisingly fascinating nineteenth-century streets
topic. What the display doesn’t between avenue Bosquet and
tell you is that the work isn’t the Invalides. Chief among
quite finished. Around thirty them is rue Cler, whose food
times a year parts of the system shops act as a kind of
get overloaded with rainwater, permanent market. The cross-
and the sewermen have to streets, rue de Grenelle and rue
empty the excess – waste and St-Dominique, are full of
all – straight into the Seine. neighbourhood shops, posh
bistrots and little hotels.
Rue Cler and around
A little further upstream still, Les Invalides
the American Church on quai Wwww.invalides.org. There’s no
d’Orsay, together with the missing the overpowering facade
American College nearby at 31 of the Hôtel des Invalides, topped
av Bosquet, is a nodal point in by its resplendently gilded dome.
the well-organized life of It was built on the orders of
Paris’s large American Louis XIV as a home for
Contents Places
139
wounded soldiers, and part of the cities, created in the seventeenth
building is still used as a hospice, and eighteenth centuries to aid
along with the soldiers’ church. military planning.With the
The rest houses Napoleon’s eerie green glow of their
tomb, in the Eglise du Dôme, landscapes only just illuminating

and a suite of museums, the most the long, tunnel-like attic, the
interesting of which are detailed effect is distinctly chilling.
separately below.
Napoleon’s tomb
Musée de l’Armée Same hours and ticket as Musée de
Daily: April–Sept 10am–6pm, l’Armée. Some visitors find the
Oct–March 10am–5pm. e7, ticket also Eglise du Dôme gloriously
valid for Napoleon’s tomb. The most sumptuous, others think it’s
fascinating section of this vast supremely pompous. Either way,
national army museum is it’s overwhelming. Sunk into the
devoted to World War II.The floor at the centre is Napoleon’s
battles, the resistance and the tomb, a giant red porphyry
slow liberation are documented sarcophagus, enclosed within a
through imaginatively displayed gallery emblazoned with
war memorabilia combined with Napoleonic quotations of
gripping reels of contemporary awesome but largely truthful
footage, many of which have an conceit.When Napoleon was
English-language option. One finally interred here, on a
leaves shocked, stirred, and with
the distinct impression that RUE ST-DOMINIQUE
Général de Gaulle was
personally responsible for
the liberation of France.
The beautiful collection of
medieval and Renaissance
armour in the west wing
of the royal courtyard is
well worth admiring,
though note that large
areas are shut for
renovation until late 2005.
Over in the east wing, the
wearyingly large collection
of later uniforms and
weapons, however, is
probably for military
history buffs only.
Musée des Plans-

Reliefs
Same hours and ticket as
Musée de l’Armée. Up under
the roof of the east wing,
the Musée des Plans-
Reliefs displays an
extraordinary collection of
super-scale models of
French ports and fortified
Contents Places
The Eiffel Tower area PLACES 140
NAPOLEON’S TOMB
freezing cold day in 1840, half a Calais, The Thinker, and The
million Parisians came to watch Gate of Hell are exhibited in the
his last journey.Victor Hugo garden, while smaller-scale
commented:“It felt as if the works are housed indoors, their
whole of Paris had been poured raw energy offset by the hôtel’s
to one side of the city, like liquid elegant wooden panelling,
in a vase which has been tilted.” tarnished mirrors and
chandeliers.The museum is
Musée Rodin usually very crowded with
Tues–Sun: April–Sept 9.30am–5.45pm, visitors eager to see well-loved
garden closes 6.45pm; Oct–March works such as The Hand of God
9.30am–4.45pm, garden closes 5pm. and The Kiss, but it’s well worth
e5 or e1 for garden only. The lingering by the vibrant,
captivating Musée Rodin is impressionistic clay and plaster
housed in the eighteenth- works, small studies done from
century mansion where the life at Rodin’s own hand – after
sculptor died in November completing his apprenticeship
1917. Bronze versions of major Rodin rarely picked up a chisel,
projects like The Burghers of as in the nineteenth century it
was normal for artists
to delegate the task of
working up stone and
bronze versions to
assistants. On the
ground floor, a room is
devoted to Camille
Claudel, Rodin’s pupil,
model and lover – look
out for the sculpture
The Age of Maturity,
which symbolises her
ultimate rejection by
Rodin.
MUSEE RODIN
Contents Places
141
Restaurants designed, modern space with lots
of romantic corners. Book three
Au Babylone months in advance for the
13 rue de Babylone T 01.45.48.72.13. exceptional, highly adventurous
Mon–Sat noon–2.30pm; closed Aug. cuisine and, of course, the views.

Lots of old-fashioned charm Lunch menu at e49 (weekdays
and culinary basics such as steak- only), evening menu at e110.
frites on the reasonably priced
menu. Le P’tit Troquet
28 rue de l’Exposition
Café du Marché T 01.47.05.80.39. Tues–Sat
38 rue Cler T 01.47.05.51.27. 12.30–2.30pm & 7.30–10.30pm.
Mon–Sat noon–11pm. Big, busy Decked out like an elegant
café-brasserie in the heart of the antiques shop, this tiny family
rue Cler market serving restaurant is a very discreet
excellent-value meals, with place, serving refined cuisine to
good, market-fresh plats du jour. the diplomats and politicians of
the quartier. Expect to pay
Chez Germaine upwards of e30.
30 rue Pierre-Leroux
T 01.42.73.28.34. Mon–Fri Thoumieux
noon–2.30pm & 7–9.30pm, Sat 79 rue St-Dominique
noon–2.30pm; closed Aug. A simple T01.47.05.49.75. Daily
and tiny restaurant that packs noon–3.30pm & 6.30pm–midnight.
them in for the excellent-value, This cavernous, traditional
inexpensive lunchtime menu. brasserie is replete with
You can see it’s all freshly mirrors, carved wood, hatstands
cooked because it’s all done and bustling, black-and-white
right in front of you. clad waiters. It’s popular with a
smart local clientele for the
Jules Verne carefully prepared classic
Eiffel Tower T01.45.55.61.44. dishes, many from the
12.15–1.45pm & 7.15–9.45pm. southwest of France. The basic
Genuinely haute cuisine – served lunch menu is inexpensive, but
in the second-floor restaurant of you’ll pay over e30 in the
the Eiffel Tower in a moodily evening.
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142
Montparnasse
Montparnasse has been Paris’s place of play for cen-
turies. The entertainments today are mostly glitzy cine-
Montparnasse PLACES
mas and late-opening restaurants, but between the

wars the celebrated cafés on the boulevard du
Montparnasse were filled with fashionable writers and
artists such as Picasso, Matisse, Man Ray, Modigliani,
Giacometti and Chagall. The most animated stretch of
the boulevard begins at the ugly brown skyscraper, the
Tour Montparnasse, and ends at boulevard Raspail,
where Rodin’s hulking statue of Balzac broods over the
traffic. You can climb the tower for fantastic views or,
for a complete contrast, descend into the grisly cata-
combs in the old quarries of Denfert-Rochereau.
To hunt down Montparnasse’s artistic past, visit the
excellent, intimate museums dedicated to the sculptors
Zadkine and Bourdelle, or the old studios that now
house the gallery and exhibition space of the Musée de
Montparnasse. Modern art – not to mention modern
architecture – has its own cool venue, the superb
Fondation Cartier, while the Fondation Cartier-
Bresson puts on photography exhibitions.
The Tour Montparnasse Jardin Atlantique
April–Sept daily 9.30am–11.30pm; Access by lifts on rue Cdt. R.
Oct–March Mon–Thurs & Sun Mouchotte and bd Vaugirard, or by the
9.30am–10.30pm, Fri stairs alongside platform #1 in
9.30am–11.30pm. e8 to 59th-floor Montparnasse station. Montparnasse
tower-top, e7 to 56th floor gallery
room. Wwww.tourmontparnasse56 TOUR MONTPARNASSE
.com.The two-hundred-metre-
tall Tour Montparnasse may be
one of the city’s least-liked
landmarks, but it offers fabulous
views from the top – though its
most vehement opponents say
this is only because the tower
you’re standing on doesn’t spoil
the view. Carping aside, the
panorama is arguably better than
the one from the Eiffel Tower –
after all, it has the Eiffel Tower
in it, plus it also costs less to
ascend and there are no queues.
Sunset is the best time for the
trip, and you could always treat
yourself to a pricey drink in the
56th-storey bar.
Contents Places
143
station was once the great
arrival and departure point for
travellers across the Atlantic, and
for Bretons seeking work in the
capital.The connection is
PLACES Montparnasse
commemorated in the
extraordinary Jardin Atlantique,
a sizeable park that the city
planners have actually
suspended on top of the train
JARDIN ATLANTIQUE tracks, between cliff-like, high-
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Contents Places
144
rise apartment blocks.The park’s complete with shabby bed, stove
design is a classic example of and some sombre paintings from
Parisian flair, with a field of his private collection.The rest of
Atlantic-coast grasses, wave-like the museum is more
undulations in the lawn, conventional, a showpiece for
Montparnasse PLACES
whimsical, electronically Bourdelle’s half-naturalistic, half-

controlled fountains and geometrical style – he was
sculptural areas hidden among Rodin’s pupil and Giacometti’s
trees. teacher, after all.
Musée du Montparnasse Musée Zadkine

21 avenue du Maine. Tues–Sun 100 bis rue d’Assas. Tues–Sun
noon–7pm. e5. Picasso, Léger, 10am–6pm. e3.30. The cottage-
Modigliani, Chagall, Braque and like home and garden studios of
other members of the Cubist sculptor Ossip Zadkine,
Montparnasse group of artists where he lived and worked
from the first half of the from 1928 to 1967, are now
twentieth century used to come overshadowed by tall buildings
to dine at what was once the on all sides, and occupied by the
Cantine des Artistes, a canteen tiny but satisfying Musée
and studio run by Marie Zadkine. A mixture of slender,
Vassilieff.The venue now hosts elongated figures and blockier,
the Musée du Montparnasse, harder-edged works are
which displays excellent displayed in just a handful of
exhibitions of work by intimate-sized rooms, while the
Montparnasse artists, past and sculptor’s Cubist bronzes are
present.The gallery lies at the scattered about the minuscule
end of a secretive, ivy-clad alley, garden, sheltering under trees or
an attractive remnant of the emerging from clumps of
interwar years that is still used bamboo.The site is low-key, but
for studio space – though invites contemplative lingering.
mostly by expensive architects
nowadays. Fondation Cartier pour l’Art
Contemporain
Musée Bourdelle 261 bd Raspail. Tues–Sun noon–8pm.
16–18 rue A. Bourdelle. Tues–Sun e5. The Fondation Cartier pour
10am–6pm. Free. Large-scale, l’Art Contemporain is a
heroic-looking modern stunningly translucent
sculptures loom over the small, construction designed by Jean
street-front courtyard of the Nouvel in 1994. A bold wall of
Musée Bourdelle, providing a glass follows the line of the
good taste of what’s inside.The street, attached by thin steel
museum was created around the struts to the building proper,
former atelier of the early which is also built almost
twentieth-century sculptor, entirely of glass. All kinds of
Antoine Bourdelle, and the contemporary art – installations,
highlight of the visit is the videos, multi-media – often by
artist’s atmospheric old studio, foreign artists little known in
littered with half-complete France, are shown in temporary
works and musty with the exhibitions that use the
smells of its ageing parquet building’s light and very
floor.You can also visit generous spaces to maximum
Bourdelle’s living quarters, advantage. Photographer Herb
Contents Places
145
Ritts has had his work and the Fascist Pierre Laval, a
showcased here, Issey Miyake member of Pétain’s government
has experimented with fabric who, after the war, was executed
designs, and a group of artists for treason, not long after a
and photographers has suicide attempt. As an antidote,
PLACES Montparnasse
collaborated on an exhibition you can pay homage to
inspired by the Amazonian Proudhon, the anarchist who
Yanomami people. coined the phrase “Property is
theft!”; he lies in Division 1, by
Montparnasse cemetery the Carrefour du Rond-Point.
Mid-March to Oct Mon–Fri 8am–6pm, In the southwest corner of the
Sat 8.30am–6pm, Sun 9am–6pm; cemetery is an old windmill,
Nov–March closes 5.30pm. which housed a famously
Fascinating rather than gloomy, raucous tavern in the
Montparnasse cemetery is filled seventeenth century.
with ranks of miniature Across rue Emile-Richard, in
temples whose architecture the eastern section of the
ranges from the austere to the cemetery, lie car-maker André
utterly sentimental. There are Citroën, Guy de Maupassant,
plenty of illustrious names to César Franck, and the celebrated
chase up, too. victim of French anti-Semitism
To the right of the entrance, at the end of the nineteenth
by the wall, is the unembellished century, Captain Dreyfus. Right
joint grave of Jean-Paul Sartre in the northern corner is a
and Simone de Beauvoir – tomb with a sculpture by
Sartre lived out the last few Brancusi, The Kiss. Its depiction
decades of his life just a few of two people, locked in an
metres away on boulevard embrace, sculpted from the same
Raspail. Down avenue de piece of stone, speaks of an
l’Ouest, which follows the undying love, and makes a far
western wall of the cemetery, more poignant statement than
you’ll find the tombs of the dramatic and passionate
Baudelaire, the painter Soutine, scenes of grief adorning so
Dadaist Tristan Tzara, Zadkine, many of the other graves.
MONTPARNASSE CEMETERY
Contents Places
146
Fondation Henri Cartier- million Parisians are interred
Bresson here, which is more than double
Impasse Lebouis. Wed 1–8.30pm, the population of the modern
Thurs, Fri & Sun 1–6.30pm, Sat city (not counting the suburbs).
11am–6.45pm; closed Aug. The bones originally came from
Montparnasse PLACES
E4.W www.henricartierbresson.org. Paris’s old charnel houses and

Old-fashioned networks of cemeteries, which had become
streets still exist in the Pernety overstocked health hazards and
and Plaisance quartiers, were cleared between 1785 and
immediately south of 1871.The fact that the long
Montparnasse cemetery. It’s an femurs and skulls are stacked in
appropriately atmospheric elaborate geometric patterns
location for the Fondation makes the effect bizarre rather
Henri Cartier-Bresson, which than spooky, and few visitors
puts on excellent photography find the experience genuinely
exhibitions, alternating with unsettling. Older children often
shows of the work of the great love it, but there are a good
Parisian photojournalist, Henri couple of kilometres to walk,
Cartier-Bresson. and it can quickly become
claustrophobic, not to mention
The Catacombs cold and gungy underfoot.
Place Denfert-Rochereau. Tues–Sun
10am–4pm. e5. Paris’s catacombs
are frankly weird.The entrance Cafés
in the middle of busy place
Denfert-Rochereau – formerly Le Dôme
place d’Enfer, or “Hell Square” 108 bd du Montparnasse. Daily:
– takes you down into what was restaurant noon–3pm & 7pm–
once an underground quarry, 12.30am; café 8am–1.30am.
but is now a series of tunnels Another haunt of artists and
lined with seemingly endless writers – Sartre and Hemingway
heaps of human bones. It’s among them – but this one has
estimated that the remains of six moved even more seriously
CATACOMBS
Contents Places
147
LE DOME
PLACES Montparnasse
upmarket than its nearby most enduring arty-chic
brethren.There’s wonderful but Parisian hang-out for dining,
expensive seafood at the bistrot, dancing and debate.The place
but you can soak up the buzzes with conversation and
atmosphere in the café section, clatter from the diners packed in
where cinema pictures decorate tightly under the high,
each alcove. chandeliered roof.The menus
are moderately priced at lunch,
Le Select becoming more expensive in
99 bd du Montparnasse. Mon–Thurs & the evening, though if you can
Sun till 3am, Fri & Sat till 4.30am. wait until 10.30pm you’ll be
Perhaps not quite as famous as its able to take advantage of their
immediate neighbours – the great-value late-night version.
other Montparnasse cafés
frequented by Picasso, Natacha
Modigliani, Cocteau and the rest 17 bis rue Campagne-Première
– but much less spoilt, slightly t 01.43.20.79.27. Mon–Sat
less expensive and infinitely 8.30pm–1am. This cool, spacious
more satisfying. Perfect for a bistro attracts a celebrity crowd.
coffee or just possibly a Cognac. In the kitchen, they introduce
warm Mediterranean flavours to
traditional Parisian dishes, and
Restaurants there’s even a pasta course –
very daring. Unrestrained
La Coupole ordering will cost you, but it’s
102 bd du Montparnasse possible to get away with a
T 01.43.20.14.20. Daily 8.30am–1am. moderate final bill.
The largest and perhaps the
Contents Places
148
Southern Paris
You might not think of venturing into the relatively
amorphous swathe of southern Paris, but there are
Southern Paris PLACES
some beguiling, untouched pockets of the old city to

explore, as well as an excellent flea market, the Puces
de Vanves. Some of the city’s loveliest public parks are
found on the southernmost fringes of the city, too: the
Parc Montsouris has been imaginatively landscaped
while the futuristic Parc André-Citroën has its own
giant helium balloon, offering fantastic views. There are
few sights as such, though you could make the pilgrim-
age to La Ruche, home to some of the most avant-
garde artists, or the Bibliothèque Nationale de
France, the gargantuan, hyper-modern national library.
In the evening, Chinatown has obvious culinary attrac-
tions, while the Butte-aux-Cailles, one of southern
Paris’s most characterful quarters, offers lots of excel-
lent, relaxed restaurants and bars.
Parc André-Citroën t 01.44.26.20.00. Mon–Fri e10,

Balloon rides daily 9am–5pm; call to under-12s e5; Sat & Sun e12, under-
check weather conditions on the day 12s e6. The riverfront south of
Allée des St Francois

M Xavier
Cygnes M
Statue of Dupleix BOULEVA
RD La Motte Picquet Vaneau
Liberty Avenue M Grenelle M
Mirabeau Emile Zola M DE Ségur
Charles A M St Pla
M Michels GRE M
Sévres
RCE
M 1 Cambronne NEL M Duroc

LE
ME
M Lecourbe DE
Commerce RUE ARD
ine
COM
Javel-André M GIR
M
Falguiére M VAU
Se
Citroën
DU
RUE
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Félix Faure BE Montparnasse

Riv
OUR M
Parc M LEC Bienvenue
Boucicaut RUE Pasteur
André- Volontaires M
M M
Citroën RU
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Lourmel EL
AC Vaugirard Jardin
M
M ON
VE Atlantique M
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URBE ION
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CO Gaîté
RU M
Balard M AR
D Convention D
GIR AN
AU PERNETY ER
EATING & DRINKING EV SS
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L’Avant Goût 3 Porte de D Pernety

ÉT
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Le Bambou 8 M Versailles VE
RC YM
RA PLAISANCE
Le Café du Commerce 1
BOU
LE
Parc RUE UE M
VA
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Chez Gladines 5 RD
LEF
Georges BRANCION RU
E
Plaisance
E B VR Brassens
L’Entrepôt 2 E
La Folie en Tête 7 Porte de
Le Merle Moqueur 6 Vanves M
LeCorentin
Temps des
M Cerises 4
Tricotin
Celton 9 Puces de ACCOMMODATION
Vanves
M Malakoff Hôtel Port-Royal B
Mairie d’Issy Plateau Hôtel Printemps A
de Vanves M Hôtel Tolbiac D
0 500 m Résidence des
Gobelins C
Contents Places
149
André-Citroën. It’s not a park
for traditionalists.There is a
central grassy area, but
elsewhere are concrete terraces
and walled gardens with abstract
PLACES Southern Paris

themes, hothouses and a large
platform sprouting a capricious
set of automated fountain jets,
luring children and occasionally
adults to dodge the sudden
spurts of water. Best of all is the
tethered balloon, which rises
and sinks regularly on calm
days, taking small groups up for
great views of the city.
Puces de Vanves
Av Marc-Sangnier & av Georges-
PUCES DE VANVES
Lafenestre. Sat & Sun 7am–1pm. For
original finds, the city’s best flea
the Eiffel Tower bristles with market is the Puces de Vanves. It
office blocks and miniature starts at daybreak on weekends,
skyscrapers, but at the when endless stalls selling
southwestern extreme of the trinkets, knick-knacks and
city limits lies the open, miscellaneous collectables are set
landscaped space of the Parc up in a long line down avenues
Cluny La
M
M
Sévres St Sulpice
M M
Sorbonne N M Sully
M Maubert
Morland
Babylone
Mutualite
Rennes
M Jardin du M
Luxembourg
cide Cardinal Gara de
M N D des Luxembourg Jusseu Quai de Lyon
Lemoine M M
La Rapee M
Champs M
HEL
MIC
M
Place Jardin des
T-
L
PITA
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RD S
M
Plantes
L’HÔ
M M
LEVA
Vavin Gara de
DE
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M Lyon
Riv
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Edgar Quinet
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M
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Port Royal M
BOU
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Raspail Daubenton ARCEL Batofar

e
M B M St Marcel
Cimetiere du OULEVARD DU ST- M
AVE
ARD
POR T LEV Quai de
NUE
Montparnasse ROYAL B BOU

La Gare M
DES
Les Gobelins
Fondation Campo- Chevaleret
GOB
C M M
Cartier- BOULEVARD ARAGO Formic
ELIN
M
Bresson M
Nationale Bibliothéque
S
Denfert St Jacques Tapestry

M M
Rochereau M Workshop Nationale de
PLACE D’ITALIE France
Mouton- M M Place d’Italie M
Duvernet Glaciere Corvisart M
RUE
M 3
4 Bibliothèque
NAT
Butte-Aux-
LT
5 Parc de
RAU
Alésia F Mitterrand
IONA
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M RUE D’AL 6 Cailles Choisy

BAR
7 TOLBIA
C
NU
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LE
RUE DE
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RUE
D
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VILLA SEURAT RUE D TOLBIAC M

HOIS
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Tolbiac
D’ITALIE
8 AV
EN
TY
Porte d’Orléans
UE NA
SOU
D’I SSÉ
M Maison Blanche
VR
Y MA
Parc ARD
NAN
BOU LEV
LEVA
RD Montsouris M Porte d’Ivry BOU
RUE
JO U Porte 9 M
RDA A RD KELLER
LE V
M
N M
BOU N d’Italie M
A
Cité Universitaire Porte de Choisy

N
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150
Marc-Sangnier and Georges-
Lafenestre. It’s well worth the
long haul out to the city’s
southern edge – take Métro line
13 to Porte de Vanves and
follow the signs – for an

excellent morning’s curiosity-
shopping.
Allée des Cygnes

Of all the oddball sights in
southern Paris, the Allée des
Cygnes is probably the most
eccentric. It might not sound
promising – the “alley” is
basically a narrow, embanked
concrete avenue lined with trees
– but once you’ve strolled down BIBLIOTHEQUE NATIONALE DE FRANCE
from the double-decker road

and rail bridge, the Pont de Bir- that follows the park’s western
Hakeim, taken in the views of edge, lies the secretive and
the Eiffel Tower, admired the verdant square du Montsouris,
passing coal barges and visited and Georges Braque’s home on
the small-scale version of the rue Georges Braque. Five
Statue of Liberty at the minutes’ walk to the north, Dalí,
southern tip of the island, you Lurçat, Miller and Durrell once
might just share Samuel lived in the tiny cobbled street
Beckett’s opinion of the place – of Villa Seurat, off rue de la
it was one of his favourite spots Tombe-Issoire.
in Paris.
The Butte-aux-Cailles
Parc Montsouris The almost untouched quartier
At the southern limits of the of the Butte-aux-Cailles, with
city lies the Parc Montsouris. It’s its little streets and cul-de-sacs
a pleasant place to wander, with of prewar houses and studios, is
its winding, contouring paths, its typical of pre-1960s Paris.The
waterfall above the lake and the rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles itself
RER train tracks cutting right is the animated heart of the
through. More surprising area, lined with trendy but laid-
features include a back bars and restaurants, most
meteorological office, a marker of which stay open till the early
of the old meridian line, near hours.
boulevard Jourdan, and, by the
southwest entrance, a kiosk run Chinatown
by the French Astronomy You can find Paris’s best
Association. For a longer walk, southeast Asian cuisine in the
you could explore the artistic area that’s known as Chinatown,
associations of the immediate despite the presence of several
neighbourhood. Le Corbusier other east Asian communities.
built the studio at 53 avenue Chinese, Lao, Cambodian,Thai
Reille, which runs along the and Vietnamese shops and
north side of the park, while restaurants fill avenue d’Ivry and
just off rue Nansouty, the road avenue de Choisy all the way
Contents Places
151
down to the city limits.The
strangest section of the quarter,
Bars
known as Les Olympiades, is an La Folie en Tête
elevated platform hidden away 33 rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles.
between giant tower blocks and Mon–Sat 5pm–2am. This is the
PLACES Southern Paris

accessed by escalators from the classic Butte-aux-Cailles address,
streets around – rue Nationale, a laid-back and alternative-
rue de Tolbiac and avenue spirited bar playing world music
d’Ivry. At 66 avenue d’Ivry, an and modern French chanson and
escalator climbs up next door to serving beers and coffees to a
a sliproad leading down to an young, lefty clientele. Cheap
underground car park; halfway drinks and snacks are available
down this access road lurks a in the daytime.
tiny Buddhist temple and
community centre, advertised by Le Merle Moqueur
a pair of red Chinese lanterns 11 rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles. Daily
dimly visible in the gloom. 5pm–2am. Tiny bar with a
distressed chic ambience, serving
Bibliothèque Nationale de up chilled-out music and home-
France made flavoured rums to young
Wwww.bnf.fr. Tues–Sat 10am–8pm, Parisians.
Sun noon–7pm. e3 for a day pass.
The eastern edge of southern
Paris, along the riverfront, is in Restaurants
the throes of mammoth
development. Chief among the L’Avant Goût
new structures is architect 37 rue Bobillot T 01.45.81.14.06.
Dominique Perault’s Tues–Sat noon–2.30pm & 7.30–11pm;
Bibliothèque Nationale de closed three weeks in Aug. Small
France. Four enormous L-shaped neighbourhood restaurant with
towers at the corners of the site a big reputation for exciting
mimic open books, and look modern French cuisine, and
down on a huge sunken pine wines to match.The
wood, with glass walls that filter contemporary decor, with its
light into the floors below your red banquettes, and the stylishly
feet.There are occasional small- presented dishes are distinctly
scale exhibitions inside, and the cool.There’s a superb-value
reading rooms on the “haut- lunch menu, and you won’t pay
jardin” level are open to over the odds in the evening
everyone over 16. either.
Le Bambou
Cafés 70 rue Baudricourt T 01.45.70.91.75.
Tues–Sun noon–3pm & 7–10.30pm.
L’Entrepôt Tiny Chinatown bistro
7–9 rue Francis-de-Pressensé. crammed with punters tucking
Mon–Sat noon–2am. This arts into sublimely fresh-tasting,
cinema has a spacious, relaxed inexpensive Vietnamese food.
café with a moody film theme, Serves giant, powerfully
and outside seating in the flavoured pho soups, packed with
courtyard. If you want to eat as beef and noodles (choose the
well, there are moderately large version only if you really
priced, tasty plats. mean it), a full menu of
Contents Places
152
specialities, and their addictive Le Temps des Cerises
Vietnamese coffee, made with 18–20 rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles
condensed milk. T 01.45.89.69.48. Mon–Fri noon–2pm
& 7.30–11.45pm, Sat
Le Café du Commerce 7.30pm–midnight. Truly
51 rue du Commerce welcoming restaurant – it’s run

T 01.45.75.03.27. Daily as a workers’ co-op – with
noon–midnight. This deeply old- elbow-to-elbow seating and a
fashioned brasserie has an different daily choice of
unusual setting around a central imaginative dishes. Inexpensive
atrium, with diners served on lunch and evening menus,
the balconies at three levels.The though there are opportunities
menu lists all the classics, with a to splash out a little too.
strong emphasis on meat. Lunch
menus are inexpensive, but Tricotin
prices rise somewhat in the 15 av de Choisy T 01.45.85.51.52 &
evening, though the bill is never T 01.45.84.74.44. Daily
excessive. 9.15am–11pm. Glazed in like a
pair of overgrown fish tanks, the
Chez Gladines twin Tricotin restaurants are just
30 rue des Cinq-Diamants set back from the broad avenue
T 01.45.80.70.10. Daily 9am–1am. de Choisy, at the south end of
This tiny corner bistro is always Chinatown (next to the
warm and cosy, with a young Chinese-signed McDonald’s).
clientele packed in on rickety Both cover much the same
tables between the bar and the ground, and cover it well and
windows. Serves excellent wines inexpensively. Restaurant no. 1
and hearty Basque and (closed Tues) specializes in Thai
southwest dishes such as magret and grilled dishes, while no. 2
de canard or a giant, warm salad has a longer list of Vietnamese,
with saucisson and egg. Filling Cambodian and steamed foods.
and excellent value.
CHEZ GLADINES
Clubs
Batofar
Quai de la Gare. Daily 9pm–3am. This
old lighthouse boat moored at
the foot of the Bibliothèque
Nationale is your best bet for a
not-too-expensive night out,
with a kooky, slightly grungy
atmosphere, an eclectic music
policy and a diverse clientele. If
you don’t like the music you
hear from the quay, you can also
check Péniche Makara, or La
Guinguette Pirate, adjacent.
Admission under e10.
Contents Places
153
Montmartre and
northern Paris
PLACES Montmartre and northern Paris

One of the most romantic quarters in Paris, Montmartre
is principally famous for being the home, place of work
and playpen of artists such as Renoir, Degas, Picasso and
Toulouse-Lautrec. For most of its history, Montmartre was
a hilltop village outside the city walls, and today the steep
streets around the Butte Montmartre, Paris’s highest
point, preserve an attractively village-like atmosphere.
The Butte is topped by the church of Sacré-Cœur whose
bulbous white domes are visible all over the city. As
Montmartre becomes ever more gentrified, brassy Pigalle
still laps up against the foot of the Butte, its boulevards
buzzing with nightspots, ethnic fast-food outlets,
cabarets, clubs and, of course, brothels. South again, and
in complete contrast, is the genteel and handsome 9e
arrondissement, with its two elegant museums: the
Musée de la Vie Romantique and the Musée Moreau.
On the northern edge of the city limits, the mammoth St-
Ouen market hawks everything from extravagant
antiques to the cheapest flea-market hand-me-downs.
The Butte Montmartre

The name “Montmartre” is
probably a corruption of Mons
Martyrum – the Martyrs’ Hill –
but its origins may lie farther
back with Mons Martis, a
Roman shrine to Mars.You can
get a dim sense of this pagan past
if you stand on top of the Butte
Montmartre, the highest point in
Paris at 130m, and look down on
the sun falling across the valley
of the Seine.The quickest way
up is by the funicular, which is
part of the city’s Métro system,
so passes or Métro tickets can be
used.You can also go straight up
the steps from square Willette,
directly below Sacré-Cœur, but
it’s more fun to make up a route
through the winding streets of
Montmartre, a few steps to the
west.
ABBESSES METRO
Contents Places
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Montmartre and northern Paris PLACES
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154
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155
Place des Abbesses
Postcard-pretty place des
Abbesses has one of the only
two original Guimard Art-
Nouveau Métro entrances that

survive intact.The streets
immediately around the square
are relatively chi-chi for
Montmartre, with lots of
boutique clothing shops – this is
a good area for fashion
exploration if you’re after one-
off outfits and accessories. From
here you can head up rue de la
Vieuville, from where the stairs
in rue Drevet lead to the
minuscule place du Calvaire, MOULIN DE LA GALETTE
which has a lovely view back
over the city. jammed with sightseers,
overpriced restaurants and
Moulin de la Galette artists selling lurid oils of Paris
On rue Lepic stands the landmarks. At the east end of
imposing, wooden Moulin de la the place, however, stands the
Galette.This is one of only two serene church of St-Pierre-de-
survivors of Montmartre’s forty- Montmartre, the oldest in
odd windmills, and once held Paris, along with St-Germain-
fashionable dances – as des-Prés. Although much
immortalized by Renoir in his altered since it was built as a
Bal du Moulin de la Galette, Benedictine convent, in the
which hangs in the Musée twelfth century, the church still
d’Orsay. retains its Romanesque and
early Gothic character. The
Place Emile-Goudeau four ancient columns inside –
Halfway up steep, curving rue two by the door and two in
Ravignan is tiny place Emile- the choir – are probably
Goudeau, where Picasso, Braque leftovers from the Roman
and Juan Gris initiated the shrine that stood on the hill,
Cubist movement in an old and their capitals date from
piano factory known as the Merovingian times, as does the
Bateau-Lavoir.The current cemetery outside.
building is actually a faithful
reconstruction, but it’s still Sacré-Cœur
occupied by studios.With its Daily 6am–10.30pm. Dome daily
bench and little iron fountain, 9am–6.30pm. E5 for the dome.
the place is a lovely spot to draw rowning the Butte, Sacré-Cœur
breath on your way up the is a weird pastiche of Byzantine-
Butte. style architecture whose white
tower and ice-cream-scoop
Place du Tertre and St- dome has nevertheless become a
Pierre-de-Montmartre much-loved part of the Paris
The bogus heart of skyline. Construction was
Montmartre, the place du started in the 1870s on the
Tertre, is photogenic but initiative of the Catholic
Contents Places
Montmartre and northern Paris PLACES 156
VIEW FROM THE SACRE-CŒUR
Church to atone for the Musée de Montmartre

“crimes” of the revolutionary 12 rue Cortot. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm.
Commune, which first e4.50. This pretty, old
attempted to seize power by Montmartre house, occupied at
dominating the heights of various times by Renoir, Dufy,
Montmartre.There’s little to see Suzanne Valadon and her son
in the bare, over-sized interior, Utrillo, is now the low-key
but climbing up the dome gets Musée de Montmartre, where
you almost as high as the Eiffel posters, paintings and mock-ups
Tower.The view from the top is of various period rooms attempt
fantastic, but best enjoyed early to recall the atmosphere of
in the morning or later in the Montmartre’s pioneering heyday.
afternoon if you don’t want to There’s a magnificent view from
look straight into the sun. the back over the hilly northern
reaches of the city and the tiny
MONTMARTRE STEPS Montmartre vineyard, and the
shop usually has a few bottles of
Montmartre wine, which they
sell for around E40.
The Montmartre
vineyard area
The streets falling away to the
north of the Butte are among
the quietest and least touristy in
Montmartre, and a good bet for
a romantic stroll. Head down
past the Montmartre vineyard,
which produces some 1500
bottles a year, and the St-
Vincent cemetery. From rue du
Mont Cenis, just east of the
museum, there’s a particularly
picturesque view north of some
typical Montmartre steps,
Contents Places
157
complete with their double
handrail running down the
centre, and lampposts between.
Montmartre cemetery

Entrance on av Rachel, underneath rue
Caulaincourt. March 16–Nov 5 Mon–Fri
8am–6pm, Sat from 8.30am, Sun from
9am; Nov 6 to March 15 closes
5.30pm. Tucked down below
street level in the hollow of an
old quarry is Montmartre
cemetery, a tangle of trees and
funerary pomposity that feels
more intimate and less
melancholy than Père-Lachaise
or Montparnasse.The illustrious
dead at rest here include ST-OUEN FLEA MARKET MURAL
Stendhal, Berlioz, Degas,
Nijinsky and François Truffaut, lights, posters, juke boxes and
as well La Goulue, the dancer at petrol pumps. Although it’s great
the Moulin Rouge fun wandering around this
immortalized by Toulouse- section, don’t expect any
Lautrec. Zola’s grave, with its bargains. Each of the twelve
recumbent figure of a corpse, is official markets within the
another fascinating one to look complex has a slightly different
out for, though his remains have character. Marché Biron is the
been transferred to the poshest – Marché Cambo,
Panthéon.There’s also a large Marché Antica and Marché
Jewish section by the east wall. Malassis all sell serious and
By the entrance, look out for a expensive antique furniture.
curious, antique cast-iron poor- Marché Vernaison – the oldest –
box (Tronc pour les Pauvres). has the most diverse collection
of old and new furniture and
Puces de St-Ouen knick-knacks, while Marché
Mon, Sat & Sun 9am–6.30pm weather Serpette and Marché des
dependent; many stands closed Mon. Rosiers concentrate on
The Puces de St-Ouen, spreads twentieth-century decorative
beyond the périphérique ring pieces.The relatively new and
road, at the northern edge of swish Marché Dauphine has
the city, between the Porte de mostly expensive furniture and
St-Ouen and the Porte de furnishings, while Marché Paul-
Clignancourt.The bulk of the Bert, offers all kinds of
official markets are closer to the furniture, china, and the like.
latter Métro stop, while the real Marché Malik stocks mostly
junk is mostly found towards discount and vintage clothes, as
the former. It’s often called the well as some high-class
largest flea market in the world, couturier stuff. Finally, there are
though it’s predominantly a Marché Jules-Vallès and Marché
proper antiques market, selling Lécuyer-Vallès, which are the
mainly furniture but also such cheapest, most junk-like – and
fashionable junk as old café most likely to throw up an
counters, telephones, traffic unexpected treasure.
Contents Places
158
If you get hungry, make for the it in his cabaret paintings, it was
classic restaurant-buvette in the one of a number of bawdy,
centre of Marché Vernaison, Chez populist places of entertainment
Louisette, where the great gypsy – as depicted in the blockbuster
jazz guitarist, Django Reinhardt, film. Nowadays, an evening at
sometimes played.The livelier, the cabaret consists of an

more rough-and-ready market extremely expensive dinner-
area is strung out along rue J.H. and-show formula that attracts
Fabre and rue du Dr Babinski, coachloads of package-tourists
under the flyover of the to see the glitz, the special
périphérique and beyond the effects and the original feathery
boundaries of the market proper. can-cans, though there’s nothing
This area is alive with vendors left of the original atmosphere.
selling cheap clothing and pirated
DVDs and endless leather jackets. Musée de l’Erotisme
72 bd de Clichy. Daily 10am–2am. e7.
Pigalle Appropriately placed amongst
The southern slopes of all the sex shops and shows of
Montmartre are bordered by the Pigalle, the Musée de l’Erotisme
broad, busy boulevards de is testament to its owner’s
Clichy and de Rochechouart. fascination with sex as expressed
The area where the two roads in folk art.The place is awash
meet, around place Pigalle, has with model phalluses, fertility
long been a byword for sleaze, symbols and intertwined
with sex shows, sex shops and figurines from all over Asia,
prostitutes vying for custom. In Africa and pre-Columbian Latin
recent years, however, a America, as well as lots of
resurgence of trendy bars, clubs naughty pictures and statuettes
and music venues have helped from around Europe.Visiting the
rescue Pigalle’s reputation. museum is by turns an
instructive, seedy or hilarious
The Moulin Rouge experience, but it’s rarely
82 bd de Clichy T01.53.09.82.82, particularly erotic.
W www.moulinrouge.fr. The Moulin
Rouge is probably the most Musée de la Vie Romantique
famous of Paris’s cabaret 16 rue Chaptal. Tues–Sun 10am–6pm,
theatres. In the days when closed public hols. e6 during
Toulouse-Lautrec immortalized exhibitions, otherwise free. The
Musée de la Vie Romantique
FOLIES PIGALLE
sets out to evoke the era when
this quarter was the home of
Chopin, Delacroix, Dumas and
other prominent figures in the
Romantic movement.The
house itself, set off a surprising
cobbled courtyard, once
belonged to the painter Ary
Scheffer. George Sand used to
visit here, and the ground floor
consists mainly of bits and
pieces associated with her,
including jewels, locks of hair
and a cast of her lover Chopin’s
Contents Places
159
surprisingly small hand. Upstairs
are a number of Scheffer’s
sentimental aristocratic portraits.
Musée Moreau

14 rue de La Rochefoucauld. Daily
except Tues 10am–12.30pm & 2–5pm.
e4. The bizarre and little-visited
museum dedicated to the
fantastical, Symbolist works of
Gustave Moreau was conceived
by the artist himself, to be
carved out of the house he
shared with his parents for many
years – you can visit their tiny,
stuffy apartments, crammed with MUSEE MOREAU
furniture and trinkets.

Connected by a beautiful spiral
staircase, the two huge, studio-
Bars
like spaces are no less cluttered:
Moreau’s canvases hang cheek- Le Bar du Relais
by-jowl, every surface crawling 12 rue Ravignan. Daily 5pm–2am.
with figures and decorative The decor is quaint and
swirls – literally crawling in the romantic, as is the location just
case of The Daughters of Thespius under the Butte, with tables out
– or alive with deep colours and on the little square. On weekday
provocative symbolism, as in the evenings it’s perfect for a glass of
museum’s pièce de résistance, wine, while later on, especially
Jupiter and Séméle. at weekends, the music gets
cooler and more dance-
oriented, and crowds gather
Cafés outside for cocktails, designer
beers and chatter.
L’Eté en Pente Douce
23 rue Muller, cnr rue Paul-Albert. Daily Le Dépanneur
noon–midnight. Pure Montmartre 27 rue Fontaine. Daily 11am–7am. A
atmosphere, with chairs and relaxed all-night bar, in wood
tables set out beside the long and chrome, just off place
flight of steps that leads up to Pigalle. One to know about for
Sacré-Cœur from the eastern winding down after clubbing.
side. Serves decent, fairly inex-
pensive traditional French plats. La Fourmi Café
74 rue des Martyrs. Mon–Thurs
Le Sancerre 8am–2am, Fri & Sat 8am–4am, Sun
35 rue des Abbesses. Daily 7am–2am. 10am–2am. Trendy but relaxed,
A fashionable hang-out under this high-ceilinged café-bar has
the southern slope of a warm, distressed-bistro decor.
Montmartre, with a row of It’s full of conscientiously
outside tables that’s perfect for beautiful young Parisians
watching the world go by.The drinking coffee by day and
food can be disappointing, so go beers and cocktails at night.
for a drink, or just the
atmosphere on sunny days.
Contents Places
160
Restaurants La Table d’Anvers
2 place d’Anvers T 01.48.78.35.21.
L’Homme Tranquille Noon–2pm & 7–11pm; closed Mon &
81 rue des Martyrs T 01.42.54.56.28. Sat lunchtime and Sun. One of the
Mon–Sat 7.30–11.30pm; closed Aug. city’s best restaurants, despite the
Simple and pleasant bistrot ugly business-beige decor. A

ambience, with posters and come-hither menu allows you
nicotine-coloured paint. to taste the chef ’s skills without
Imaginative French dishes on breaking the bank, but true
the moderately priced menu gastronomic wining and dining
include chicken in honey, will set you back a bit.
coriander and lemon.
Au Virage Lepic
A la Pomponnette 61 rue Lepic T 01.42.52.46.79. Daily
42 rue Lepic T 01.46.06.08.36. except Tues 7pm–2am. Simple,
Tues–Thurs noon–2.30pm & 7–11pm, good-quality meaty fare served
Fri & Sat noon–2.30pm & in a noisy, friendly, old-
7pm–midnight. A genuine old fashioned bistrot. Small, smoky,
Montmartre bistrot, with posters, inexpensive and very enjoyable.
drawings, zinc-top bar, nicotine
stains, etc.The traditional La Consigne
French food is reliably good, but 2 bd de Denain T01.48.78.22.94. Daily
expect to pay a little extra for 6am–1am, food served to 11pm. A
the location and adorable bog-standard Parisian brasserie,
atmosphere. but usefully located right opposite
the Gare du Nord, and not
Le Relais Gascon overpriced.The waiters are
6 rue des Abbesses T 01.42.58.58.22. understandably jaded by the
Daily 10am–2am. A good, constant flow of out-of-towners,
welcoming lunch-stop for but the plats du jour are reliable
hearty, inexpensive Gascon plats classics such as moules frites and
and enormous hot salads. steak, and there’s pleasant seating
LA FOURMI CAFÉ
Contents Places
161
in the window and on the nights, held under the huge,
pavement. arching roof. Every other
Saturday there’s an unforgettably
Flo cheesy, school-disco-style party
7 cours des Petites-Ecuries (off rue du night called Le Bal, with live

Faubourg-St Denis) T 01.47.70.13.59. rock/dance acts and DJs playing
Daily noon–3pm & 7pm–1am. Dark, 1980s French pop tunes.
extremely handsome old-time Frequent gigs midweek.
brasserie where you eat elbow to
elbow at long tables, served by Folies Pigalle
waiters in ankle-length aprons. 11 place Pigalle. Tues–Sat
Fish and seafood are the midnight–dawn, Sun dawn–midnight.
specialities, but the food generally Famed for its sleazy past, and
is excellent, as is the atmosphere. only slightly less sleazy present,
It’s not cheap, but good value for the Folies is a landmark on the
the quality, especially if you come club scene for its house nights
at lunchtime, or pick the menu and gay-trash “after” events early
which includes wine. on Saturday morning and right
through Sunday.
Julien
16 rue du Faubourg-St Denis
T01.47.70.12.06. Daily noon–3pm & Live music
7pm–1am. Part of the same
enterprise as the Flo, with an Le Divan du Monde
even more splendid decor, all 75 rue des Martyrs T 01.44.92.77.66.
globe lamps, hatstands, white The regulars at this deeply
linen, brass and polished wood. famous old café once included
Serves the same good traditional Toulouse-Lautrec. Now revived,
French cuisine as Flo, at the same it’s a youthful venue with one of
prices, and it’s just as crowded. the city’s most diverse and
exciting programmes, ranging
Pooja from techno to Congolese
91 passage Brady (off rue du rumba, with dancing till dawn
Faubourg-St Denis) T 01.48.24.00.83. on weekend nights.
Mon 6–11pm, Tues–Sun noon–3pm &
6–11pm. Located in a glazed Le Lapin Agile
passage that is Paris’s own slice of 22 rue des Saules T 01.46.06.85.87,
the Indian subcontinent, Pooja is W www.au-lapin-agille.com. Tues–Sun
slightly pricier and sometimes 9pm–2am. This old Montmartre
slightly more elaborate than its artists’ haunt features cabaret,
many inexpensive neighbours, poetry and chanson nights.
so it probably has the edge – Sometimes touristy – it’s pricey
unless you feel like exploring. – but often excellent.
New Morning
Clubs 7–9 rue des Petites-Ecuries
T 01.45.23.51.41, W www.new
Elysée Montmartre morning.com. The place to catch
72 bd de Rochechouart big international names in jazz, as
W www.elyseemontmarte.com. A well as aspiring world music acts.
historic Montmartre nightspot There are a few seats, but it’s
that pulls in a young, excitable usually a crush of people on the
crowd with its up-tempo club low area in front of the stage.
Contents Places
162
The Bastille
Now one of Paris’s nightlife hotspots, the lively Bastille
quarter used to be a working-class district, but with
The Bastille PLACES
the construction of the opera house, the shiny, glass-

fronted Opéra Bastille, it soon became a magnet for
artists and young people. You can still catch some of
the working-class flavour east and south of the
Bastille, especially along rue du Faubourg St-
Antoine. Nearby is the Viaduc des Arts, an
imaginatively converted old railway viaduct whose
arches house a wonderful variety of craftshops and
ateliers, while the disused railway running above has
been turned into a delightful green walkway, the
Promenade Plantée, stretching all the way to the Bois
de Vincennes on the city’s outskirts.
Place de la Bastille of the prison, but the July

The huge and usually traffic- Revolution of 1830 that
clogged place de la Bastille is replaced the autocratic Charles
where Parisians congregate to X with the “Citizen King”
celebrate Bastille Day on July Louis-Philippe.
14, though hardly anything
survives of the prison – the few Opéra Bastille
remains have been transferred to 120 rue de Lyon T08.36.69.78.68,
square Henri-Galli at the end of Wwww.opera-de-paris.fr. The
boulevard Henri-IV. At the Bicentennial of the French
centre of the place is a column Revolution, in 1989, was
surmounted by a gilded Spirit of marked by the inauguration of a
Liberty, erected to new opera house on place de la
commemorate not the surrender Bastille, the Opéra Bastille. Its
PLACE DE LA BASTILLE COLUMN
reception was rather mixed; the
architect, Uruguyan Carlos Ott,
was concerned that his design
should not bring an overbearing
monumentalism to the place,
and while the different depths
and layers of the semicircular
facade do give a certain sense of
the building stepping back, self-
effacing it is not.Time, use and
familiarity have more or less
reconciled it to its
surroundings, though, and
people happily sit on its steps,
wander into its shops and
libraries, and camp out all night
for the free performance on
July 14.
Contents Places
163
Rue de Lappe music halls of 1930s gai Paris,
One of the liveliest night-time frequented between the wars by
spots in Paris is rue de Lappe, Piaf, Jean Gabin and Rita
crammed with animated, young Hayworth. Hip cafés and bars
bars, full to bursting on the have also sprung up in the
PLACES The Bastille

weekends. Balajo at no. 9 is one surrounding streets, elbowing
remnant of a very Parisian their way in among the fashion
tradition: the bals musettes, or boutiques and wacky interior
R
ACCOMMODATION M Richard Lenoir EATING & DRINKING
RUE
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Ministère des Finances & Parc de Bercy
Contents Places
164
designers on rue de Charonne the adjoining rue d’Aligre
and the alternative, hippy outfits where the market really comes
on rues Keller and de la to life, though, with the
Roquette. vendors, many of Algerian
origin, doing a frenetic trade in
The Bastille PLACES
Rue du Faubourg St-Antoine fruit and veg.

The cradle of revolutions and,
not coincidentally, principal The Promenade Plantée
working-class quartier of Paris The Promenade Plantée, also
since the fifteenth century, Rue known as the Coulée Verte, is an
du Faubourg St-Antoine has excellent way to see a little-
traditionally been associated visited part of the city – and
with furniture-making. Many from an unusual angle.This
furniture workshops, as well as stretch of disused railway line,
related trades such as inlayers, much of it along a viaduct, has
stainers and polishers, still been ingeniously converted into
inhabit the maze of an elevated walkway and
interconnecting yards and planted with a profusion of trees
passages that run off the and flowers – cherry trees,
faubourg, especially at the maples, limes, roses and
western end. One of the most lavender.The walkway starts
attractive courtyards is at no. 56, near the beginning of avenue
with its lemon trees, and ivy- Daumesnil, just south of the
and rose-covered buildings. Bastille opera house, and is
reached via a flight of stone
Place d’Aligre market steps – or lifts – with a number
Tues–Sun 7.30am–1pm. The place of similar access points all the
d’Aligre market, between way along. It takes you to the
avenue Daumesnil and rue du Parc de Reuilly, then descends
Faubourg St-Antoine, is a lively, to ground level and continues
raucous affair, particularly at nearly as far as the périphérique,
weekends.The square itself is from where you can follow
given over to clothes and bric- signs to the Bois de Vincennes.
a-brac stalls, selling anything The whole walk is around
from old gramophone players to 4.5km long, but if you don’t feel
odd bits of crockery. It’s along like doing the whole thing you
could just walk the first part –
PROMENADE PLANTEE along the
viaduct –
which also
happens to be
the most
attractive
stretch,
running past
venerable old
mansion
blocks and
giving you a
bird’s eye view
of the street
below.
Contents Places
165
The Viaduc des Arts numerous activities for children,
The arches of the Promenade including a mini-golf of Parisian
Plantée’s viaduct itself have had monuments.
their red brickwork scrubbed If you just feel like a lazy day
clean and have been converted out in the park, you could go
PLACES The Bastille

into attractive spaces for artisans’ boating on the Lac
studios and craft shops, Daumesnil, near the Porte
collectively known as the Viaduc Dorée entrance and Métro
des Arts.The workshops house a station (line 8). In the southeast
wealth of creativity: furniture corner, off route de la
and tapestry restorers, interior Pyramide, you can wander
designers, cabinet-makers, among 2000 trees of over 800
violin- and flute-makers, different species that have been
embroiderers and fashion and cultivated in the Arboretum
jewellery designers; a full list and (Mon–Fri 9.30am–6.30pm;
map is available from no. 23 free). Just north of the Lac
avenue Daumesnil. Daumesnil, at 53 avenue de St-
Maurice, is the city’s largest
The Bois de Vincennes zoo (April–Sept Mon–Sat
Daily dawn till dusk; follow signs from 9am–6pm, Sun 9am–6.30pm;
avenue Daumesnil (see p.164 and Oct–March closes one hour
Paris map inside front cover) or take earlier. E8, children E5), one
Métro line 1 to its terminus at Château of the first to replace cages
de Vincennes. The Bois de with trenches and use
Vincennes is one of the largest landscaping to give the animals
green spaces that the city has to room to exercise. The animals
offer. Sights are quite a long way are at their most animated
from each other, so to avoid a during the feeding times
lot of footslogging, target one or scheduled throughout the
two or rent a bicycle from the afternoon.
outlet on Esplanade St-Louis
(weekends & hols; E3 an hour) Château de Vincennes
just south of Château de Daily 10am–noon & 1.15–6pm. 75min
Vincennes. guided tours at 11am, 2.15pm, 3pm &
The place to head for if you’ve 4.45pm; 45min tours at 10.15am,
only got a limited amount of 11.45am, 1.30pm & 4.15pm. E6.10
time is the Parc Floral (daily: 75min tour, E4.60 45min. On the
summer 9.30am–8pm, winter northern edge of the bois, the
9.30am–dusk. E1.50; Château de Vincennes –
wwww.parcfloraldeparis.com), erstwhile royal medieval
Paris’s best garden, a short walk residence, then state prison,
southeast from the Château de porcelain factory, weapons
Vincennes. Flowers are always in dump and military training
bloom in the Jardin des Quatre school – is still undergoing
Saisons; you can picnic beneath restoration work started by
pines, then wander through Napoleon III.The fourteenth-
concentrations of camellias, century keep is closed but tours
rhododendrons, cacti, ferns, irises stop at another highlight – the
and bonsai trees. Between April Flamboyant-Gothic Chapelle
and September, there are art and Royale, completed in the mid-
horticultural exhibitions in sixteenth century and decorated
several pavilions, free jazz and with superb Renaissance
classical music concerts, and stained-glass windows.
Contents Places
166
Shops Cafés
Le Baron Rouge Café de l’Industrie
1 rue Théophile-Roussel. Tues–Fri 16 rue St-Sabin. Daily 10am–2am.
10am–2pm & 5–9.30pm, Sat One of the best Bastille cafés,
The Bastille PLACES
10am–9.30pm, Sun 10.30am–1pm. packed out every evening. Rugs

A wine-cellar and bar selling a on the floor around solid old
good selection of dependable wooden tables, mounted
lower-range French wines at rhinoceros heads, old black-and-
modest prices. white photos on the walls and
an unpretentious crowd
Cécile et Jeanne enjoying the comfortable
49 av Daumesnil. Mon–Fri absence of minimalism.
10am–7pm, Sat & Sun 2–7pm.
Reasonably priced and Café des Phares
innovative jewellery design in 7 place de la Bastille (west side). Daily
one of the Viaduc des Arts 7am–4am. A popular public
showrooms. philosophy debate is held in the
back room here every Sunday at
FNAC Musique 11am.At other times the terrasse is
4 place de la Bastille Wwww.fnac.fr. a good spot for people-watching
Mon–Sat 10am–8pm, Wed & Fri to on the place de la Bastille.
10pm. A stylish shop in black,
grey and chrome with Pause Café
computerized catalogues, every 41 rue de Charonne, cnr rue Keller.
variety of music, books, and a Tues–Sat 8am–2am, Sun to 9pm.
concert booking agency. More like “Pose Café” – given
its popularity with the quartier’s
Isabel Marant young and fashionable who
16 rue de Charonne. Mon–Sat pack the pavement tables at
10.30am–7.30pm. Marant has lunch and aperitif time.
established an international
reputation for her feminine
and flattering clothes in quality Bars
fabrics such as silk and
cashmere. Prices are above Bar des Ferrailleurs
average, but not exorbitant. 18 rue de Lappe. Daily 5pm–2am.
Dark and stylishly sinister, with
LE BARON ROUGE
rusting metal decor, an
eccentric owner and a
relaxed and friendly
crowd.
SanZSanS
49 rue du Faubourg St-
Antoine. Daily 9am–2am.
Gothic decor of red
velvet, oil paintings
and chandeliers, and a
young crowd in the
evening. Drinks and
food reasonably priced.
DJ every evening.
Contents Places
167
Restaurants Le Square Trousseau
1 rue Antoine Vollon T 01.43.43.06.00.
Le Bistrot du Peintre Tues–Sat noon–2pm & 7.30–midnight;
116 av Ledru-Rollin T 01.47.00.34.39. closed Aug. A handsome belle
Mon–Sat 7am–2am, Sun 10am–8pm. époque brasserie serving
PLACES The Bastille

A charming, traditional bistrot, excellent, fair-priced traditional
where small tables are jammed cuisine. Booking recommended.
together beneath faded Art
Nouveau frescoes and wood
panelling.The emphasis is on Live music
reasonably priced, hearty
Auvergne cuisine. Café de la Danse
5 passage Louis-Philippe
Blue Elephant T 01.47.00.57.59. Rock, pop,
43–45 rue de la Roquette world and folk music played in
T01.47.00.42.00. Daily noon–2.30pm an intimate and attractive space.
& 7pm–midnight; closed Sat midday.
Superb, pricey Thai restaurant Opéra Bastille
with dishes featuring liberal 120 rue de Lyon T 08.36.69.78.68,
amounts of papaya, coconut W www.opera-de-paris.fr. Operas
milk and seafood. Booking put on at the Bastille are often
essential. on a grand scale and have a high
reputation – best to book in
Bofinger advance. For programme and
7 rue de la Bastille T 01.42.72.87.82. booking details consult their
Mon–Fri noon–3pm & 6.30pm–1am, website or phone the box office.
Sat & Sun noon–1am. This popular Tickets can cost as little as e10
fin-de-siècle brasserie, with its if you sit up in the gods, but
splendid, perfectly preserved, most are around the e60–90
original decor, is always mark.
crowded with Bastille
Opera-goers and tourists.
Specialities are sauerkraut Clubs
and seafood. Prices above
average. Chapelle des Lombards
19 rue de Lappe T 01.43.57.24.24.
Chez Paul Thurs–Sat 11pm–dawn; entry and first
13 rue de Charonne, cnr rue de Lappe drink Thurs E13, Fri & Sat E18. This
T01.47.00.34.57. Daily erstwhile bal musette still plays
noon–2.30pm & 7.30pm–12.30am; the occasional waltz and tango,
closed Aug. A wonky corner but for the most part the music
building housing a small is Afro-Latin. Its renown as a
restaurant that preserves the pick-up joint means unabashed
faded colours and furnishings advances.
of an older Bastille era, right
down to the black-and-white La Fabrique
tiles on the floor. The young 53 rue du Faubourg St-Antoine
customers who pack the place T 01.43.07.67.07. Mon–Sat
out, however, have a distinctly 11pm–5am. Free Mon–Thurs, around
contemporary style. E10 Fri & Sat. Uber-trendy club-
Moderately priced. Booking bar heaving with Bastille
advised. groovesters partying well into
the morning.
Contents Places
168
Eastern Paris
Traditionally a working-class area, with a history of
radical and revolutionary activity, eastern Paris is nowa-
Eastern Paris PLACES
days one of the most diverse and vibrant parts of the

city, home to sizeable ethnic populations, as well as
students and impoverished artists, attracted by the
area’s low rents. The area’s most popular attractions are
Père-Lachaise cemetery, the final resting place of
many well-known artists and writers; the Canal St-
Martin, with its trendy cafés and bars; and the vast,
postmodern Parc de la Villette. Visiting the Parc de
Belleville and the bucolic Parc des Buttes-Chaumont
reveals the east’s other chief asset – near-panoramic
views of the city.
The Canal St-Martin level. In the last decade or so

Built in 1825 to enable river the area has been colonized by
traffic to shortcut the great the new arty and media
western loop of the Seine intelligentsia, and the bars, cafés
around Paris, the Canal St- and boutiques fronting the canal
Martin possesses a great deal of and in the surrounding streets
charm, especially along its have an alternative, bohemian
southern reaches: plane trees feel.The area is particularly
line the cobbled quais, and lively on Sunday afternoons
elegant, high-arched footbridges when the quais are closed to
punctuate the spaces between traffic, and pedestrians, cyclists
the locks, from where you can and rollerbladers take over the
still watch the odd barge slowly streets, and students hang out
rising or sinking to the next along the canal’s edge, nursing
beers or softly strumming
CANAL ST-MARTIN
guitars.
The Parc de la Villette

Daily 6am–1am. Grounds free,
admission fee for some themed
gardens. Wwww.villette.com. Built
in 1986 on the site of what was
once Paris’s largest abattoir and
meat market, the Parc de la
Villette’s landscaped grounds
include a state-of-the-art
science museum, a superb
music museum, a series of
themed gardens and a number
of jarring, bright-red “follies”.
The effect of these numerous,
disparate elements can be quite
disorienting – all in line with
Contents Places
169
N 0 1 km
AV BERVILLIERS
St-D
Can enis
al
C
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PTE DE LA L -LE
PTE RA
VILLETTE NE PANTIN
PLACES Eastern Paris

PTE DE LA D'AUBERVILLIERS
CHAPELLE GE
U
BD M AC DON A LD D
AV
RUE DE LA CHAPELLE
Cité des Sciences

et de l’ Industrie E
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Parc de la Villette AV J
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EATING & DRINKING

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DE
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NJ
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JEA Chez Prune
BD DE LA CHAPELLE AV Lou Pascalou 6
Au Pavillon Puebla 2
Lao Sian 3
Gare du Waly Fay 10
Nord
BD DE LA
Parc des Le Zéphyr 4

rtin
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Buttes-
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l'Est LILAS
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REPU G A M B E T TA International
B L IQ AV
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ME
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Ursule Père-Lachaise
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the creators’ aim of eschewing Jardin des Miroirs, for example,
meaning and “deconstructing” steel monoliths hidden amongst
the whole into its parts. All the trees and scrub cast strange
very well, but on a practical reflections, while, predictably,
level you’ll probably want to dune-like shapes, sails and
pick up a map at the windmills make up the Jardin
information centre at the des Vents et des Dunes (for
southern entrance to help you under-12s only and
make sense of it all. accompanying adults). Also
The extensive park grounds popular with children is the
contain ten themed gardens, eighty-metre-long Dragon
aimed mainly at children. In the Slide.
Contents Places
170
subjects such as sound, robotics,
energy, light, ecology, maths,
medicine, space and language. As
the name suggests, the emphasis
is on exploring, and there are
numerous interactive computers,

videos, holograms, animated
models and games.You can have
your head spun further by a
session in the planetarium.
The Cité has a special section
for children called the Cité des
Enfants, with areas for 3- to 5-
year-olds and 6- to
12-year-olds; all children have to
be accompanied by an adult and
CITE DES SCIENCES you pay for a ninety-minute
session consisting of organized
In front of the Cité des activities as well as individual
Sciences floats the Géode play (T08.03.30.63.06.Tues,
(Tues–Sat hourly shows Thurs & Fri 11.30am, 1.30pm
10.30am–9.30pm, & 3.30pm;Wed, Sat, Sun &
10.30am–7.30pm; E8.75), a public hols 10.30am, 12.30pm,
bubble of reflecting steel that 2.30pm & 4.30pm). Among the
looks as though it’s been numerous engaging activities,
dropped from an intergalactic children can play about with
boules game into a pool of water, construct buildings on a
water. Inside is a screen for miniature construction site
Omnimax films, not noted for (complete with cranes, hard hats
their plots, but a great visual and barrows), experiment with
experience. sound and light, manipulate
robots and superimpose their
Cité des Sciences et de image on a landscape.
l’Industrie
Parc de la Villette W www.cite- Musée de la Musique
sciences.fr. Tues–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun Cité de la Musique complex, Parc de la
10am–7pm. e7.50. Planetarium shows Villette. Tues–Sat noon–6pm, Sun
11am, noon, 2pm, 3pm, 4pm & 5pm; 10am–6pm. e6.10. The Musée de
35min; e2.50.The Cité des la Musique presents the history
Sciences et de l’Industrie is one of music from the end of the
of the world’s finest science Renaissance to the present day,
museums, set in a huge
CITE DE LA MUSIQUE
building, four times the size
of the Pompidou Centre.
Its giant walls are made of
glass and the centre of the
museum is left open to the
full extent of the roof, 40m
high. An excellent
programme of temporary
exhibitions complements
the permanent exhibition,
called Explora, covering
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171
both visually, exhibiting some
4500 instruments, and aurally,
via headsets (available in
English; free). Glass case after
glass case holds gleaming,

beautiful instruments: jewel-
inlaid crystal flutes and a
fabulous lyre-guitar are some
impressive examples.The
instruments are presented in the
context of a key work in the
history of Western music: as
you step past each case, the
headphones are programmed to
emit a short scholarly narration,
followed by a delightful concert.
Père-Lachaise cemetery OSCAR WILDE’S GRAVE, PERE-LACHAISE

Main entrance on boulevard de
Ménilmontant. Mon–Fri 8am–5.30pm, Chopin (Division 11), often
Sat 8.30am–5.30pm, Sun attended by Poles bearing red-
9am–5.30pm. Free. Final resting and-white wreaths and flowers.
place of a host of French and Fans also flock to the ex-Doors
foreign notables, Père-Lachaise lead singer Jim Morrison
covers some 116 acres, making (Division 6), who died in Paris
it one of the world’s largest at the age of 28.You can tell
cemeteries. Size aside, it’s surely when you’re getting near his
also one of the most grave: messages in praise of love
atmospheric – an eerily and drugs are scribbled on
beautiful haven, with terraced nearby trees and tombs.
slopes and magnificent old trees Femme fatale Colette’s tomb,
that spread their branches over close to the main entrance in
the moss-grown tombs. Free Division 4, is very plain, though
plans are given out at the always covered in flowers.The
entrance, though it’s worth same holds true for Sarah
buying a slightly more detailed Bernhardt’s (Division 44) and the
plan, as it’s tricky tracking down great chanteuse Edith Piaf ’s
some of the graves; the best is (Division 97). Marcel Proust lies
the one published by Editions in his family’s black-marble,
Métropolitain Paris (around conventional tomb (Division 85).
e2), usually available in the Cutting a rather romantic
newsagents and florists near the figure, French president Félix
main entrance. Faure (Division 4), who died in
Père-Lachaise was opened in the arms of his mistress in the
1804 to ease the strain on the Elysée palace in 1899, lies
city’s overflowing cemeteries draped in a French flag, his
and churchyards.The civil head to one side. One of the
authorities had Molière, La most impressive of the
Fontaine, Abélard and Héloïse individual tombs is Oscar
reburied here, and to be interred Wilde’s (Division 89), topped
in Père-Lachaise quickly with a sculpture by Jacob
acquired cachet. Among the Epstein of a mysterious
most visited graves is that of Pharaonic winged messenger
Contents Places
172
unlikely setting, a fairy-tale-like
park was created – there’s a
grotto with a cascade and
artificial stalactities, and a
picturesque lake from which a
huge rock rises up, topped with

a delicate Corinthian temple.
From the temple you get fine
views of the Sacré-Cœur and
beyond, and you can also go
boating on the lake.
Belleville
The neighbourhood of
Belleville’s colourful, if
somewhat run-down, main
street, rue de Belleville, abounds
with Vietnamese,Thai and
PARC DES BUTTES-CHAUMONT
Chinese shops and restaurants,
(sadly vandalized of its once which spill south along
prominent member, last seen boulevard de Belleville and rue
being used as a paper weight by du Faubourg-du-Temple.The
the director of the cemetery). quartier’s rich ethnic mix is also
It is the monuments to the evident on rue Ramponeau,
collective, violent deaths, which is just off boulevard de
however, that have the power to Belleville, and is full of kosher
change a sunny outing to Père- shops, belonging to Sephardic
Lachaise into a much more Jews from Tunisia. African and
sombre experience. In Division oriental fruits, spices, music and
97, you’ll find the memorials to fabrics attract shoppers to the
the victims of the Nazi boulevard de Belleville market
concentration camps and on Tuesday and Friday
executed Resistance fighters.
PARC DE BELLEVILLE
Marking one of the bloodiest
episodes in French history is the
Mur des Fédérés (Division 76),
the wall where the last troops of
the Paris Commune were lined
up and shot in the final days of
the battle in 1871.The man
who ordered their execution,
Adolphe Thiers, lies in the
centre of the cemetery in
Division 55.
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont

The Parc des Buttes-Chaumont
was constructed under
Haussmann in the 1860s to
camouflage what until then had
been a desolate warren of
disused quarries, rubbish dumps
and shacks. Out of this rather
Contents Places
CAFE CHARBON
173

mornings. From the Parc de Stella Cadente
Belleville, with its terraces and 93 quai de Valmy. 10am–7.30pm. Soft
waterfalls, you get fantastic and feminine clothes, such as
views across the city, especially floaty chiffon dresses, from
at sunset. designer Stanislassia Klein.
Ménilmontant Ursule Beaugeste

Like Belleville, Ménilmontant 15 rue Oberkampf. Mon–Fri
aligns itself along one straight, 11am–7.30pm, Sat 3–7pm. Designer
steep, long street, the rue de Ann Grand-Clément’s delicious
Ménilmontant and its lower trademark crocheted handbags,
extension rue Oberkampf. some made on old looms, as
Although it is seedy and well as beautifully engraved
dilapidated in parts, its leather bags and cloth hats, all
popularity with students and presented in a simple industrial-
artists has brought a cutting- chic decor.
edge vitality to the area.
Alternative shops and trendy
bars and restaurants have sprung Cafés
up among the grocers and
cheap hardware stores, especially Café de la Musique
along rue Oberkampf. 213 av Jean-Jaurès. Daily 7am–2am.
A stylish café with a popular
terrace, just inside the La Villette
Shops complex.
Ganachaud Café Charbon

226 rue de Pyrénées. Tues–Sat 109 rue Oberkampf T 01.43.57.55.13.
7.30am–8pm. Although father Daily 9am–2am, DJ Thurs, Fri & Sat
Ganachaud has left the business, eves 10pm–2am, live music Sun from
his three daughters continue his 8.30pm. A very successful and
recipes, and the bread is still out attractive resuscitation of an
of this world. Start the day with early twentieth-century café,
a pain biologique and you’ll live to popular with a young,
be a hundred years, guaranteed. fashionable crowd.
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174
Restaurants intimate, faintly colonial
ambience. Smart, young black
Astier and white Parisians come here
44 rue Jean-Pierre-Timbaud to dine on perfumed, richly
T 01.43.57.16.35. Mon–Fri noon–2pm spiced stews and other West
& 8–11pm; closed Aug, plus a fortnight African delicacies at a moderate

in May & at Christmas. A popular cost.
restaurant with simple decor,
unstuffy atmosphere, and food Le Zéphyr
renowned for its freshness and 1 rue Jourdain T01.46.36.65.81.
refinement. Outstanding Mon–Sat 8am–11.30pm, closed Sat
selection of perfectly ripe lunch. Trendy but relaxed and
cheeses. Essential to book ahead; moderately priced 1930s-style
lunch is often less crowded and bistrot with an attractive
just as enjoyable. Prices are terrace.
reasonable.
Chez Prune Bars

36 rue Beaurepaire T 01.42.41.30.47.
Mon–Sat 7.30am–1.45am & Sun Lou Pascalou
10am–1.45am. One of the most 14 rue des Panoyaux. Daily 9am–2am.
popular hangouts along the Trendy but friendly place with a
canal, this is a very friendly, zinc bar.Wide range of cocktails
inexpensive and laid-back bar- and beers bottled and on tap.
restaurant. Creative assiettes
guaranteed to tempt both meat- La Flèche d’Or
eaters and vegetarians, and a 102 bis rue de Bagnolet
romantic place to sip a glass of t 01.43.72.04.23,
wine or indulge in a dessert. w www.flechedor.com. Daily
10am–2am. A large, lively café-bar
Au Pavillon Puebla attracting the arty, biker, punkish
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont Parisian youth. It’s also a nightly
T 01.42.08.92.62. Tues–Sat venue for live world music, pop,
noon–10pm; closed two weeks in punk, ska and chanson, and the
August. Luxury cuisine in an old reasonably priced food also has a
hunting lodge (enter by the rue multicultural slant.
Botzaris/avenue Bolivar gate to
the park). Poached lobster and
duck with foie gras are some of Clubs
the à la carte delights. Not cheap,
but well worth the extra. Nouveau Casino
109 rue Oberkampf T 01.43.57.57.40,
Waly Fay W www.nouveaucasino.net. Thurs–Sun
6 rue Godefroy-Cavaignac, 11pm–dawn. e10. Eclectic mix of
T 01.40.24.17.79. Mon–Sat noon–2pm musical styles played at this
& 7.30–11pm; closed last two weeks large, happening club – anything
of Aug. A West African restaurant from electro to house and funk.
with a cosy, stylish atmosphere, Concerts earlier in the evening
the dim lighting, rattan and old, are even wider-ranging – from
faded photographs creating an post-rock to hip-hop.
Contents Places
175
Western Paris
Commonly referred to as the Beaux Quartiers, Paris’s
well-manicured western arrondissements, the 16e and
PLACES Western Paris

17e, are the preserve of moneyed Parisians. The most
appealing areas are the old villages of Auteuil and
Passy at its heart, with their tight knot of streets and
charming villas – leafy lanes of attractive old houses,
fronted with English-style gardens of roses, ivy and wis-
teria. The 16e also boasts a number of interesting
examples of early-twentieth-century architecture,
notably pieces by Le Corbusier and Hector Guimard.
Another highlight in the area is the Musée Marmottan,
with its marvellous collection of late Monets. Just
behind the museum lies the extensive Bois de
Boulogne, an extremely pleasant spot with its trees,
lakes, cycling trails and the beautiful floral displays of
the Parc de Bagatelle. Further west, modern architec-
ture comes bang up to date with the gleaming sky-
scrapers of the purpose-built commercial district of La
Défense, dominated by the enormous Grande Arche.
Auteuil very plain, with windows in

Around Auteuil are several of bands, the only extravagance a
Hector Guimard’s Art Nouveau curved frontage. It may look
buildings – there’s a commonplace enough now
concentration on rue de la from the outside, but at the time
Fontaine, the best-known at no. it was built it was in great
14, Castel Béranger, with contrast to anything that had
exuberant decoration and shapes gone before, and once you’re
in the windows, the roofline inside, the spatial play still seems
and the chimney. If the bulgy groundbreaking.The interior is
curves of Art Nouveau make appropriately decorated with
you feel queasy, however, head Cubist paintings.
up rue du Dr-Blanche for the
cool, rectilinear lines of architect Place de Passy
Le Corbusier’s contribution to The heart of the Passy quartier is
the area. pleasant little place de Passy,
with its crowded but leisurely
Villa La Roche Le Paris Passy café. Leading off
Square du Dr Blanche. Mon from here is the old high street,
1.30pm–6pm, Tues–Fri rue de Passy, with its eye-
10.30am–12.30pm & 1.30pm–6pm; catching parade of boutiques,
closed Aug. E2.40. Le Corbusier’s and the cobbled, pedestrianized
first private houses, dating to rue de l’Annonciation, an
1923, were the Villa Jeanneret agreeable blend of genteel
and the Villa La Roche.This affluence and the down-to-
latter is in strictly Cubist style, earth.
Contents Places
176
er
EATING & DRINKING Riv ine
Byblos Café 1 Se
La Gare 2
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Western Paris PLACES
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177
The Musée Marmottan
2 rue Louis-Boilly
Wwww.marmottan.com. Daily
10am–6pm. E6.50. The Musée
Marmottan is best known for its

excellent collection of Monet
paintings. One of the highlights
is Impression, soleil levant, a canvas
from 1872 of a misty Le Havre
morning, and whose title the
critics usurped to give the
Impressionist movement its
name.There’s also a dazzling
selection of works from Monet’s
last years at Giverny, including
several Nymphéas (Waterlilies),
Le Pont Japonais, L’Allée des BOIS DE BOULOGNE
Rosiers and Le Saule Pleureur.
The collection also features works, including La Cousine Bette
some of his contemporaries – and Le Cousin Pons.The museum
Manet, Renoir and Berthe preserves his study, while other
Morisot – and a room full of exhibits include a highly
beautiful medieval illuminated complex family tree of around a
manuscripts. thousand of the four thousand-
plus characters that feature in his
Maison de Balzac Comédie Humaine.
47 rue Raynouard. Tues–Sun
10am–6pm. Free. The Maison de Bois de Boulogne
Balzac is a wonderful, summery The Bois de Boulogne was
little house with pale-green designed by Baron Haussmann
shutters, tucked away down some and supposedly modelled on
steps that lead through a shady, London’s Hyde Park – though it’s
rose-filled garden, a delightful a very French interpretation.The
place to dally on wrought-iron “bois” of the name is somewhat
seats, surrounded by busts of the deceptive, though the extensive
writer. It was here that Balzac parklands (just under 900
wrote some of his best-known hectares) do contain some
remnants of the once great Forêt
MAISON DE BALZAC
de Rouvray.As
its location
would suggest,
the Bois was
once the
playground of
the wealthy,
although it also
established a
reputation as the
site of the sex
trade and its
associated crime.
The same is true
today and you
Contents Places
178
should avoid it at night. By day, Musée en Herbe (Mon–Fri &
however, the park is an extremely Sun 10am–6pm, Sat 2–6pm),
pleasant spot to stroll, especially which aims to bring art history
in the Parc de Bagatelle. alive through workshops and
The best, and wildest, part for games. Bikes are available for
Western Paris PLACES
walking is towards the rent at the entrance.

southwest corner. Bikes are
available for rent at the entrance Musée National des Arts et
to the Jardin d’Acclimatation Traditions Populaires
adventure park and you can go Bois de Boulogne. 6 ave du Mahatma-
boating on the Lac Inférieur. Gandhi. Mon & Wed–Sun
Also within the park is the 9.30am–5.15pm. E4, Sun E2.60. The
fascinating Musée National des absorbing Musée National des
Arts et Traditions Populaires. Arts et Traditions Populaires is
dedicated to French rural life
Parc de Bagatelle over the last thousand years or
Bois de Boulogne. Daily 9am–7pm. so and celebrates the traditional
E1.50. The Parc de Bagatelle crafts of, among others, boat-
comprises a range of garden building, shepherding, weaving,
styles from French and English pottery and stone-cutting as
to Japanese. Its most famous they existed before
feature is the stunning rose industrialization and mass
garden.The best time for the production.
roses is June, while in other
parts of the garden there are La Défense
beautiful displays of tulips, An impressive complex of
hyacinths and daffodils in early gleaming skyscrapers, La
April, irises in May, and Défense is Paris’s prestige
waterlilies in early August. business district and an
extraordinary monument to
The Jardin d’Acclimatation late-twentieth-century
Bois de Boulogne. Daily: June–Sept capitalism. Its most popular
10am–7pm; Oct–May 10am–6pm. attraction is the huge Grande
E2.50, children E1.25, under-3s free;
rides from E2.50. The children’s
Jardin d’Acclimatation is a cross
between a funfair, zoo and
amusement park.The fun starts
at the Porte-Maillot Métro stop:
a little train runs from here to
the Jardin (every 15min
11am–6pm; E5 return, ticket
combines return ride and entry
to park).The park’s attractions
include bumper cars, donkey
rides, sea lions, bears and
monkeys, a huge trampoline and
a magical mini-canal ride (la
rivière enchantée).There are also
two museums: the high-tech
Exploradôme (daily 10am–6pm.
E5), designed to help children
discover science and art, and the
GRANDE ARCHE DE LA DÉFENSE
Contents Places
LA GARE
179
Shops
L’Occaserie
30 rue de la Pompe.
Tues–Sat 11am–7pm.

Specialists in
secondhand haute
couture and a great
hunting ground for
Chanel suits, Louis
Vuitton handbags and
the like.While prices
are much cheaper
than new, they’re still
not especially
inexpensive.There
are several smaller
Arche; between there and the branches nearby at 16 & 21 rue
river, apartment blocks and big de l’Annonciation, 14 rue Jean-
businesses compete to dazzle Bologne and 19 rue de la
and dizzy you.The jungle of Pompe.
concrete and glass is relieved by
avant-garde sculptures by artists Pascal le Glacier
such as Joan Miró and Torricini, 17 rue Bois-le-Vent. Tues–Sat
dotted around the place de la 11am–6pm. Exquisite home-
Défense and the esplanade du made sorbets in fruity flavours,
Général de Gaulle between the such as sanguino orange and
Arche and the river. mango.
For the most dramatic
approach to the Grande Arche
and to see the sculptures, it’s Restaurants
worth getting off the Métro a
stop early, at MEsplanade-de-la- Byblos Café
Défense. 6 rue Guichard T 01.42.30.99.99. Daily
11am–3pm & 5–11pm. An excellent
Grande Arche de la Défense Lebanese restaurant, serving
Lifts daily 10am–8pm. E7. The traditional mezzes, moussaka
Grande Arche de la Défense, and the like in relaxed and
built in 1989 for the convivial surroundings. Prices
bicentenary of the Revolution, are very reasonable for the area.
is a beautiful and astounding
112-metre-high structure, clad La Gare
in white marble, standing 6km 19 Chaussée de la Muette
out and at a slight angle from T 01.42.15.15.31. Restaurant daily
the Arc de Triomphe, noon–3pm & 7pm–midnight, bar
completing the western axis of noon–2pm. This renovated train
this monumental east–west vista. station is now an elegant
Lifts take you up past a “cloud restaurant-bar serving, among
canopy” to the roof of the arch, other things, a very popular,
from where on a clear day you though slightly pricey, lunch
can see as far as the Louvre and menu.You can sit out on the
beyond. attractive terrace on sunny days.
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180
Excursions
Even if you’re on a weekend break, a handful of major
sights may tempt you beyond the city limits. Firstly
Excursions PLACES
there’s the château de Versailles, the ultimate French

royal palace, awesome in its size and magnificence.
St-Denis, meanwhile, just beyond the city centre, is
principally famous for its historic Gothic cathedral, the
burial place of the kings of France. As for Disneyland
Paris, 25km east of the capital, there are no two ways
about it – children will love it. It offers a good variety of
fear-and-thrill rides along with the Disney-themed spec-
tacles, and it’s easy to visit as a day-trip.
Château de Versailles French royal indulgence. Work

RER Line C to Versailles-Rive Gauche lasted virtually until Louis
station. 40min trip. Signposted 10min XIV’s death in 1715. Rather
walk from the station. Tues–Sun than a royal home,Versailles was
except hols: May–Sept 9am–6pm; the headquarters and lodgings
Oct–April 9am–5pm. E20 “passport”, of every arm of the state, and
individual tickets also available. the entire court of some 3500
w www.chateauversailles.fr. In the nobles – plus administrative
early 1660s, the “Sun King” staff, soldiers, merchants and
Louis XIV recruited the elite servants – lived in the palace, in
design team of the day – a state of unhygienic squalor,
architect Le Vau, painter Le according to contemporary
Brun and gardener Le Nôtre – accounts. For the nobility, every
and set them to create a palace minute of the day revolved
that would be the apotheosis of around the actions of the king,
VERSAILLES
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181
Aéroport
Charles de
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A1
which were minutely regulated Baroque creations, and through

and rigidly encased in a procession of gilded drawing
ceremony. rooms to the king’s throne
Following Louis’ death, the room and the dazzling Galerie
château mostly remained the des Glaces, or Hall of Mirrors,
residence of the royal family which runs in one chandelier-
until the Revolution of 1789, strewn, mirrored sweep along
when the furniture was the length of the garden front.
auctioned off and the pictures It’s best viewed at the end of
dispatched to the Louvre – a the day, when the crowds have
process that took a year. departed and the setting sun
Restoration only began in floods it from the west. The
earnest between the two world queen’s fabulous apartments
wars, but today it proceeds line the northern wing,
apace,Versailles’ curators beginning with her
scouring the world’s auction bedchamber, restored exactly as
houses in search of the original it was in its last refit of 1787,
furnishings from the eve of the with hardly a surface
Revolution. The palace’s main unadorned by gold leaf. A
entrances lie beyond the giant separate entrance in the Cour
gates, past the equestrian statue de Marbre, marked “D”, is the
of Louis XIV, in the glorious, place to book the excellent
half-enclosed Cour de Marbre. guided tours (e4–8), which
The door marked “A”, often take you to wings of the palace
signalled by long queues, gives that mostly can’t otherwise be
access to the main showcase seen (though a few are covered
rooms of the palace, the State by “self-guided” tours using
Apartments, which can be audio-visual guides).Various
visited without a guide (E7.50, itineraries depart throughout
or E5.30 after 3.30pm). The the day, including English-
route leads past the royal language tours; they must all be
chapel, a grand structure that booked the same morning, so
ranks among France’s finest arrive early.
Contents Places
182
scale play village and thatch-
roofed farm built in 1783 for
Marie-Antoinette to indulge the
fashionable, Rousseau-inspired
fantasy of returning to the
Excursions PLACES
natural life. Around it, the park

is being slowly returned to its
original design from the time of
Marie-Antoinette, which means
some areas may be fenced off
for re-landscaping.
Distances in the park are
considerable but all the sights
are well signposted. If you want
to save time walking, take the
petit train, which shuttles
between the terrace in front of
GALERIE DES GLACES, VERSAILLES the château and the Trianons
(e3.50); it runs about every
Versailles park 15min in summer.There are
Daily 7am–dusk: e3. Le Nôtre’s bikes for hire at the Grille de la
exquisite, statue-studded garden Reine, Porte St-Antoine and by
terraces lie between the the Grand Canal. Boats are for
château and the landscaped part hire on the Grand Canal, next
of the park. In the summer to a pair of café-restaurants –
months, the fountains here picnics are forbidden.
dance elaborately to the tune of
classical music (July–Sept Sat & The basilica of St-Denis
Sun 11am, 3.30pm & 5.20pm; St-Denis-Basilique Métro, end of line
April–June Sat only; e6). 13. April–Sept Mon–Sat
Beyond the gardens, the slope 10am–6.15pm, Sun noon–6.15pm;
falls away to the grand canal Oct–March Mon–Sat 10am–5.15pm,
and the “English” park, which Sun noon–5pm. Free; tombs e6.10.
is big enough to spend the The basilica of St-Denis is often
whole day exploring, along called the birthplace of Gothic
with its lesser outcrops of royal architecture. It’s a typically lofty,
building mania: the Italianate serene space, but melancholy
Grand Trianon, designed by too – as the burial place of
Hardouin-Mansart in 1687 as a almost all of the kings of
“country retreat” for Louis France.The church gets its
XIV; and the exquisite Petit name from its legendary
Trianon (daily: April–Oct founder, the early Parisian
noon–6pm; Nov–March bishop St Denis - who was
noon–5pm; combined ticket decapitated for his beliefs at
for both Trianons e5, or e3 Montmartre but promptly
after 3.30pm), built in the picked up his own head and
1760s for Louis XV’s mistress, walked all the way to St Denis –
Mme de Pompadour, as a but the present basilica was
refreshingly elegant change of begun only in the first half of
scene from the over- the twelfth century by Abbot
indulgences of the palace. Suger, friend and adviser to
Just beyond these is the bizarre kings. Only the lowest storey of
Hameau de la Reine, a full- the choir remains from this era,
Contents Places
183
as much of the rest of the flowers – are the
church was rebuilt in the undistinguished statues of Louis
Rayonnant Gothic style in the XVI and Marie-Antoinette.
mid-thirteenth century.The
abbey’s royal connections date St-Denis market
PLACES Excursions
back to the coronation of Pepin St-Denis-Basilique Métro, end of line 13.
the Short, in 754, but it wasn’t You probably wouldn’t make a
until Hugh Capet, in 996, that it special trip out to St-Denis from
became the royal necropolis. the centre of Paris, but if you’re
Since then, all but three of here visiting the basilica it’s well
France’s kings have been worth exploring the area around.
interred here.Their very fine Modern St-Denis is the most
tombs, often graced by infamous of Paris’s “hot” suburbs,
startlingly naturalistic effigies, previously for its radically
are distributed about the Communist population, now for
transepts and ambulatory (closed its supposedly volatile ethnic mix.
during services). Among the In fact, it’s a fascinating place to
most interesting are the visit, characterized by the
enormous Renaissance extraordinary, fortress-like
memorial to François I on the architecture of its shopping and
right just beyond the entrance, housing complexes.Try to time
and the tombs of Louis XII, your visit to coincide with
Henri II and Catherine de market day (Tues, Fri & Sun
Médicis on the left side of the mornings), when the main place
church. On the level above – Victor-Hugo is crammed with
invariably graced by bouquets of shoppers.
THE BASILICA OF ST-DENIS
Contents Places
184
Visiting Disneyland Paris
RER line A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy station. 40min trip. Park hours
roughly: April–Oct daily 9am to 11pm; Nov–March daily 10am to 8pm.
w www.disneylandparis.com
The Disneyland complex is divided into three areas: Disneyland Park; Walt
Excursions PLACES
Disney Studios Park; and Disney Village and the hotels. If you plan to stay here,
booking an accommodation-and-entry package through Disney or a travel agent
offers the best value for money.
The best time to go is on an off-season weekday (Mon & Thurs are best). At
other times, longish waits for the popular rides are common in the middle of the
day. The most popular attractions use the Fastpass scheme, where you book your-
self a later time slot at the entrance to the ride and go on some less popular rides
while you wait.
Passes, known as “passports”, can be purchased in advance – in order to avoid
queues at the park itself – at the Paris Tourist Office and at all Disney shops, or
you can buy admission passes and train tickets in Paris at all RER line A and B sta-
tions and in major Métro stations. You can also buy tickets online. The one-day
pass (April–Sept e39, under-11s e29; Oct–March except over Christmas e29,
under-11s e25) allows you to visit either Disneyland Park or the Walt Disney
Studios Park. You can’t go back and forth between both areas, but if you choose
the Walt Disney Studios, you’re entitled to move on to Disneyland Park after the
Studios close. Otherwise, you’re allowed re-entry. If you buy the three-day pass
(April–Sept e107, under-11s e80; Oct–March e79, under-11s kids e69) you
can move freely between both areas, and you don’t have to use the ticket on three
consecutive days.
There are licensed cafés inside the park but expect the usual captive-audience
prices and quality; the swankier restaurants in Disney Village aren’t great value,
but the various hamburger joints around the park aren’t too pricey.
Disneyland Park emphasizes technology and the

The introduction to Disneyland space age.As for rollercoasters, the
Park is Main Street USA, a runaway train on Frontierland’s
mythical vision of a 1900s Big Thunder Mountain and the
American town, that leads up to mine-carts of Adventureland’s
Central Plaza, the hub of the Indiana Jones and the Temple of
park.A steam train Railroad runs Peril: Backwards! are fast and
round the park with stations at exciting, but the emphasis is on
each “land” and at the main thrills rather than sheer terror.
entrance. Sleeping Beauty’s Castle, Space Mountain, in
directly opposite Main Street Discoveryland, is a different
across Central Plaza, belongs to matter altogether: the upside-
Fantasyland, which is aimed at down loops, corkscrews and
the youngest children.There are terrifying acceleration require you
no height restrictions here, and to have a strong constitution to
rides are mostly gentle. Each of enjoy it really. Be warned that the
the other three themed areas experience can be so intense that
offers a landmark rollercoaster and the park’s gentler rides may seem
a theme: Adventureland has the disappointing. Children, in
most outlandish, jungly sets, particular, will want to return
Frontierland is set in the Wild again and again.
West, while Discoveryland
Contents Places
185
Walt Disney Studios Park there are mock film and TV sets
Other than the “Rock ’n’ where you can be part of the
Roller Coaster Starring audience, and the special-effects
Aerosmith”, a terrifyingly fast, and stunt shows are impressive
corkscrew-looping, Metal- in their way.The Studio Tram
PLACES Excursions
playing white-knuckler, the new Tour Featuring Catastrophe
Walt Disney Studios Park Canyon is more of a true ride,
complex lacks the big rides taking you past various fake film
offered by its older, larger lots and pausing inside the
neighbour. In some ways it’s a accident-prone Catastrophe
more satisfying affair, focusing Canyon.The Armageddon
on what Disney was and is still Special Effects spaceship
renowned for – animation.You simulation is also pretty scary,
can try your hand at drawing, while it lasts.
DISNEYLAND PARIS
Contents Places
186
Contents Places
Accommodation
Contents Accommodation
Accommodation
189
Hotels
ACCOMMODATION Hotels
Paris is extremely well supplied The Islands
with hotels.The ones reviewed
Henri IV 25 place Dauphine
here are all classics, places that
t01.43.54.44.53 m Pont Neuf/Cité. See
offer something special – whether
map on p.190. A well-known cheapie in a
it’s a great location, unusually beautiful central location on the Ile de la
elegant decor or a Cité. Ask for one of the recently renovated
particularly warm welcome. en-suite rooms (e43); most of the others
Some are sights in themselves. are pretty run-down and have only a cabinet
The grandest establishments are de toilette. Essential to book well in
mostly found in the Champs- advance. No credit cards. e30–43.
Elysées area, while the trendy Hôtel du Jeu de Paume 54 rue St-Louis-
Marais quarter is a good bet for en-l’Île t01.43.26.14.26, wwww.jeu
something elegant but relatively depaumehotel.com m Pont-Marie. See
relaxed. Over on the Left Bank – map on p.190. Located on the most desir-
around the Quartier Latin, St- able island in France, this quiet, charming
Germain and the Eiffel Tower hotel occupies the site of a tennis court built
quarter – you’ll find more home- for Louis XIII in 1634 (“jeu de paume” is
ly, old-fashioned hotels. “real tennis”). The wood-beam court is now
Most hotels offer two categories a breakfast room, from which a glass lift
of rooms: at the bottom end of whisks you up to the 28 rooms, decorated in
the scale this means choosing soothing colours. e215–e285.
between an en-suite bathroom or
shared facilities, while more The Champs-Elysées
expensive places may charge a
premium rate for larger or more and Tuileries
luxurious rooms. Overseas visitors Hôtel d’Artois 94 rue la Boétie
may find that prices aren’t exorbi- t01.43.59.84.12, f01.43.59.50.70
tant, by European standards, but m St-Phillipe-du-Roule. See map on
then rooms can be surprisingly p.192. One of the cheapest in this, the
small for the money. smartest part of town, with spacious doubles
Continental breakfast is nor- of the old-fashioned variety. E52–e75.
mally an extra E5 to E8 per per- Hôtel Le Bristol 112 rue du Faubourg
son; you’ll usually be asked if you St-Honoré t01.53.43.43.00, wwww.le
want to have breakfast when you bristolparis.com m Miromesnil. See map
check in. on p.192. The city’s most luxurious hotel
Booking accommodation
It’s wise to reserve your accommodation as early as possible, as the nicest places
are quickly booked out for all but the quietest winter months. All receptionists
speak some English – but it’s worth bearing in mind that more and more places
offer online booking as well. If you book by phone you may be asked for just a
credit card number, or sometimes for written or faxed confirmation. If you’re stuck,
the main tourist office at Champs Elysées and the branches at Gare de Lyon and
the Eiffel Tower will find you a room: all book accommodation for that day only,
and you have to turn up at the office in person (E3–8 commission for a hotel
room depending on how many stars it has, E1.20 for a hostel).
190
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manages to remain discreet and warm. restored nineteenth-century town house
Gobelins tapestries adorn the walls and with 58 rooms, each retaining original fea-
some rooms have private roof gardens. tures and antiques, but with a touch of con-
There’s also a large colonnaded interior gar- temporary chic. A small interior zen-style
den, as well as a swimming pool, health garden and pleasant service make for a
club and gourmet restaurant. Doubles start relaxing stay. Doubles start at e410.
at e580. Hôtel Brighton 218 rue de Rivoli t01.47
Hôtel Keppler 12 rue Keppler t01.47 .03.61.61,ehotel.brighton@wanadoo.fr
.20.65.05, wwww.hotelkeppler.com m Tuileries. See map on p.190. A smart
m George V/Kléber. See map below. establishment with light, airy rooms. Its main
Located in a quiet street just a few steps asset, though, is the magnificent view of the
from the Arc de Triomphe, this place is good Tuileries gardens from the front-facing
value for the area. Rooms are a little small, rooms – the ones right at the top with bal-
but spotless and quite comfortable. Doubles cony are the best. Rates range from E138
E84–88. (double, no view) to e252 (triple, with view).
Hôtel Lancaster 7 rue de Berri t01.40 Hôtel Costes 239 rue St-Honoré t01.42
.76.40.76, wwww.hotel-lancaster.fr .44.50.00, f01.42.44.50.01 m Tuileries.
m George V. See map below. An elegantly See map on p.190. Opened in the mid-
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193
1990s and an instant hit with media and m Hôtel-de-Ville. See map on p.190.
fashion celebrities, this ultra-cool modern Named after the eighteenth-century French
hotel marries Second Empire style with all playwright Beaumarchais, who lived just up
up-to-date amenities. Doubles start from the road, this gem of a hotel has only nine-
e300. teen rooms. Everything – down to the origi-
nal engravings and Louis XVI-style furniture,
not to mention the pianoforte in the foyer –
The Grands evokes the refined tastes of high-society
pre-Revolutionary Paris. Rooms overlooking
Boulevards and the courtyard are small but cosy
passages (e120–137), while those on the street are
more spacious, some with balcony (e152).
Hôtel Chopin 46 passage Jouffroy;
Hôtel Central Marais 33 rue Vieille-du-
entrance on bd Montmartre, near rue du
Temple t01.48.87.56.08, wwww
Faubourg-Montmartre t01.47.70.58.10,
.hotelcentralmarais.com m Hôtel-de-
f01.42.47.00.70 c Grandes-
Ville. See map on p.190. The only self-
Boulevards. See map on p.190. A charm-
proclaimed gay hotel in Paris, with a relaxed
ing, quiet hotel in a splendid period building
bar downstairs. Seven small rooms with
hidden away at the end of an elegant
shared bathrooms (E87). Also lets an
1850s passage. Rooms are pleasantly fur-
apartment that sleeps four (e110, three
nished. e70–82.
Hôtel Vivienne 40 rue Vivienne nights minimum). The entrance is on rue
t01.42.33.13.26, eparis@hotel Ste-Croix-de-la-Bretonnerie.
-vivienne.com c Grandes-Boulevards. Grand Hôtel Jeanne d’Arc 3 rue de
See map on p.190. Ideally located for the Jarente t01.48.87.62.11, wwww.hotel
Opéra Garnier and the Grands Boulevards, jeannedarc.com m St-Paul. See map on
this is a friendly hotel, with good-sized, p.190. An attractive old Marais building, just
fresh, clean rooms. E65–e90. off place du Marché Ste-Catherine. The
rooms are a decent size, with nice individual
touches, plus cable TV. The triple at the top
Beaubourg and has good views over the rooftops (e108).
Doubles cost E78.
Les Halles Grand Hôtel du Loiret 8 rue des
Relais du Louvre 19 rue des Prêtres St- Mauvais-Garçons t01.48.87.77.00,
Germain l’Auxerrois t01.40.41.96.42, ehoteloiret@aol.com m Hôtel-de-Ville.
eau-relais-du-louvre@dial.deane.com See map on p.190. A friendly, good-value
m Palais-Royal/Musée-du-Louvre. See hotel, renovated in 2002. The two triples on
map on p.190. Small, discreet hotel done the top floor have excellent views of the
out in Second Empire style. Its relaxed Sacré-Cœur. Cheaper rooms have wash-
atmosphere and charming service attract a basin only, but all have TV and telephone.
faithful clientele. E145–180. e35–e60.
Hôtel St-Honoré 85 rue St-Honoré Grand Hôtel Malher 5 rue Malher
t01.42.36.20.38, ehotel-st- t01.42.72.60.92, wwww.grandhotel
honore@wanadoo.fr m Châtelet Les malher.com m St-Paul. See map on
Halles. See map on p.190. Conveniently p.190. A family-run establishment, situated
close to the heart of things, this is a stylish- right in the heart of the Marais. Rooms are
ly renovated old building with 29 rooms, all light and well decorated, with gleaming-
en suite. e74. white bathrooms. Breakfast is served in a
renovated seventeenth-century vaulted wine
cellar. e107.
The Marais Hôtel Pavillon de la Reine 28 pl des
Hôtel Caron de Beaumarchais 12 rue Vosges, t01.40.29.19.19, wwww
Vieille-du-Temple t01.42.72.34.12, .pavillon-de-la-reine.com m Bastille. See
wwww.carondebeaumarchais.com map on p.190. A perfect honeymoon or
194
romantic-weekend getaway in a beautiful sympathetic to the needs of backpack-toting
ivy-covered mansion secreted away off the foreigners, with free laundry facilities, a din-
place des Vosges. Rooms are sumptuously ing room with fridge and microwave and
decorated with rich fabrics, antique furnish- bedrooms for up to five people. Even if you
ings and four-poster beds and come with all don’t have a backpack, you’ll find it central
mod cons. Doubles start at e335. and welcoming – one of the best bargains in
Hôtel du Septième Art 20 rue St-Paul, town. Doubles cost E60 with shared bath-
t01.44.54.85.00, ehotel7art room, or E82 en suite.
@wanadoo.fr m St-Paul/Sully Morland. Hôtel Port-Royal 8 bd Port-Royal
See map on p.190. A pleasant, comfort- t01.43.31.70.06, wwww.portroyal
able place decorated with posters and pho- hotel.fr.st m Gobelins. See map on
tos from old movies; a similarly themed p.148. The rooms at this excellent budget
salon de thé downstairs. The stairs and address wouldn’t disgrace a three-star. It’s
bathrooms live up to the black-and-white- immaculately clean, attractive and friendly,
movie style. Doubles range from e70 to though towards the southern edge of the
e120. quarter. Fifteen inexpensive rooms (E48)
are available with shared bathroom facili-
ties, though showers cost E2.50. En-suite
The Quartier Latin doubles cost E73.
Familia Hôtel 11 rue des Écoles Hôtel de la Sorbonne 6 rue Victor-
t01.43.54.55.27, wwww.hotel-paris Cousin t01.43.54.58.08, wwww.hotel
-familia.com m Cardinal-Lemoine. See sorbonne.com m Cluny-La Sorbonne.
map on p.190. Friendly, family-run hotel in See map on p.190. Housed in an attractive
the heart of the quartier. Rooms are small old building almost on top of the Sorbonne,
but characterful, with beams, elegant wall- and close to the Luxembourg gardens, this
paper and pretty murals. Some top-floor is a small, quiet and rather plush hotel.
rooms have views of Notre-Dame, while a Expect to pay around E80 for a double.
few more expensive ones have balconies.
Double rooms cost E90–110, breakfast
included. St-Germain
Hôtel Esmeralda 4 rue St-Julien-le- L’Hôtel 13 rue des Beaux-Arts t01.44
Pauvre t01.43.54.19.20, f01.40.51 .41.99.00 wwww.l-hotel.com
.00.68 m St-Michel. See map on p.190. m Mabillon/St-Germain-des-Prés. See
Nestling in an ancient house on square map on p.190. This extravagant four-star is
Viviani, this discreet, old-fashioned hotel has a destination in itself, with a celebrity clien-
cosy, unmodernized rooms, some with superb tele and prices climbing above the E300
views of nearby Notre-Dame. A trio of singles mark – notably for the room Oscar Wilde
(E35) come with washbasin only; doubles died in. The twenty sumptuously decorated,
cost E85. almost kitsch rooms are set round a light-
Hôtel des Grandes Écoles 75 rue du well-like central atrium, and there’s a tiny
Cardinal-Lemoine t01.43.26.79.23, pool underground.
wwww.hotel-grandes-ecoles.com Hôtel de l’Angleterre 44 rue Jacob
m Cardinal-Lemoine. See map on p.190. t01.42.60.34.72, eanglotel@wanadoo.fr
This pretty three-star in the heart of the m St-Germain-des-Prés. See map on
Quartier Latin has an attractive setting p.190. Top-class hotel in a building that once
around a peaceful courtyard garden. Rooms housed the British Embassy and, later, Ernest
are attractively bright, if rather heavy on the Hemingway. The luxury rooms (E230) are
floral wallpaper, and cost E100–125, huge, and many have beautiful original roof
depending on size. beams. Standard room prices begin at E130.
Hôtel Marignan 13 rue du Sommerard Hôtel du Globe 15 rue des Quatre-Vents
t01.43.54.63.81, wwww.hotel t01.43.26.35.50, f01.46.33.62.69,
-marignan.com m Maubert-Mutualité. m Odéon. See map on p.190. Welcoming
See map on p.190. The Marignan is totally hotel in a tall, narrow, seventeenth-century
195
building decked out with a faintly medieval back from the tempting shops of the rue St-
theme: there are four-posters, stone walls, Dominique. Rooms are small and very simple,
roof beams and even a suit of armour in the but good value in this area at E78; the spa-
lobby. Doubles cost from E90. cious family rooms cost E100.
Hôtel de Nesle 7 rue de Nesle Hôtel Saint Dominique 62 rue Saint-
t01.43.54.62.41, m St-Michel. Dominique t01.47.05.51.44, wwww
wwww.hoteldenesle.com. See map on .hotelstdominique.com, m Invalides/La
p.190. Friendly, offbeat hotel with themed Tour Maubourg. See map on p.192. The
rooms decorated with wacky cartoon murals posh, village-like neighbourhood of the rue
– of French history, mostly – that you’ll St-Dominique is the perfect setting for this
either love or hate. Smaller rooms cost welcoming two-star. The prettily wallpapered
E75, some of which have shared bathrooms are arranged around a bright little
rooms and one of which even has a ham- courtyard. Rooms cost around E120.
mam. En-suite rooms are E100.
Hôtel Récamier 3 bis place St-Sulpice
t01.43.26.04.89, f01.46.33.27.73, Montparnasse
m St-Sulpice. See map on p.190. Hôtel Istria 29 rue Campagne-Première
Comfortable, old-fashioned and solidly bour- t01.43.20.91.82, ehotel.istria
geois hotel, attractively tucked away in a @wanadoo.fr, m Raspail. See map on
corner behind St-Sulpice. Double rooms p.143. Beautifully decorated hotel, with leg-
cost from E115. endary artistic associations: Duchamp, Man
Relais Saint-Sulpice 3 rue Garancière Ray, Aragon, Mayakovsky and Rilke all
t01.46.33.99.00, whttp://monsite stayed here. Doubles from E96.
.wanadoo.fr/relaisstsulpice, m St-Sulpice. Hôtel des Voyageurs 22 rue Boulard
See map on p.190. Set in an aristocratic t01.43.21.08.20, ehotel.des
town house immediately behind St-Sulpice, .voyageurs2@wanadoo.fr, m Denfert
this is a discreet and classy three-star. The Rochereau. See map on p.143. A truly
well-furnished rooms are painted in cheerful original, great value, Montparnasse estab-
Provençal colours and cost E165 for a lishment, with temporary art exhibitions lin-
standard or E205 for a luxury room. ing the walls and theatre events taking
place in the garden at the back. The rooms
are comfortable and modern, and guests
Eiffel Tower area can use the kitchen and living room. The
Hôtel du Champ-de-Mars 7 rue du new annexe on adjacent rue Daguerre has
Champs-de-Mars t01.45.51.52.30, free unlimited Internet access in every
wwww.hotel-du-champ-de-mars.com, room, and every wall and door surface has
m Ecole-Militaire. See map on p.192. A been frescoed by local artists. E45.
friendly and well-run hotel just off the rue
Cler market. The rooms are decidedly cosy,
with swathes of colourful fabrics. Doubles Southern Paris
from E74. Hôtel Printemps 31 rue du Commerce
Hôtel du Palais Bourbon 49 rue de t01.45.79.83.36, ehotel.printemps
Bourgogne t01.44.11.30.70, wwww .15e@yahoo.fr, m Avenue Emil Zola. See
.hotel-palais-bourbon.com, m Varenne. map on p.148. A friendly welcome and
See map on p.192. This handsome old rooms that are sparsely furnished but clean.
hotel on a sunny street by the Musée Rodin Popular with backpackers. E39 for the
offers spacious and light double rooms at room, whether used by one or two people,
E120, plus one tiny double at E55. plus some inexpensive rooms with just
Breakfast is included. sinks and loos for E30.
Hôtel le Pavillon 54 rue St-Dominique Hôtel Tolbiac 122 rue de Tolbiac
t01.45.51.42.87, epatrickpavillon t01.44.24.25.54, wwww.hotel
@aol.com, m Invalides/La Tour Maubourg. -tolbiac.com, m Tolbiac. See map on
See map on p.192. A tiny former convent set p.148. Situated on a noisy junction, but all
196
rooms are clean and decently furnished, ally large rooms. Doubles cost E89–99,
and very inexpensive – doubles cost from depending on size.
E29, or E36 with bathroom facilities. In Style Hôtel 8 rue Ganneron. From
July and August you can rent small studios m Place-de-Clichy head 250m north up
by the week. Ave de Clichy and turn right onto rue
Résidence Les Gobelins 9 rue des Ganneron; the hotel is just round the cor-
Gobelins t01.47.07.26.90, wwww.hotel ner. t01.45.22.37.59, f01.45
gobelins.com, m Gobelins. See map on .22.81.03, mPlace-de-Clichy. See map
p.148. A delightful establishment within on p.154. Wooden floors, marble fireplaces,
walking distance of the Quartier Latin’s rue a secluded internal courtyard, and nice peo-
Mouffetard. With its large, comfortable dou- ple. Great value, especially in the rooms with
ble rooms at E70, this is a well-known bar- shared bathrooms (E34). No lift. En-suite
gain, so book well in advance. doubles cost E43, or E55 with three beds.
Timhotel Montmartre place Émile-
Goudeau, 11 rue Ravignan t01.42
Montmartre and .55.74.79, wwww.timhotel.com,
m Abbesses. See map on p.154. Rooms
northern Paris are modern, comfortable and freshly decorat-
Hôtel Bonséjour 11 rue Burq ed, albeit in a nondescript way. The location
t01.42.54.22.53, f01.42.54.25.92, is classic, with views across the city from the
m Abbesses. See map on p.154. Set in more expensive (E145) rooms. E130.
a marvellous location on a quiet,
untouristy street, this hotel is run by
friendly and conscientious owners, and the The Bastille
rooms, which are basic, but clean and Hôtel Bastille Speria 1 rue de la Bastille
spacious, are Montmartre’s best deal. t01.42.72.04.01, wwww.hotel-bastille
Corner rooms 23, 33, 43 and 53 have a -speria.com, m Bastille. See map on
balcony and a E2 supplement. Doubles p.163. Located just off the place de la
cost E30 with shared shower facilities, Bastille, this is a quiet, clean, comfortable
otherwise E40. Three-person rooms also place, en suite throughout, and run by help-
available. ful and pleasant staff. E106.
Hôtel le Bouquet de Montmartre 1 rue Hôtel Méridional 36 bd Richard-Lenoir
Durantin t01.46.06.87.54, wwww t01.48.05.75.00, f01.43.57.42.85,
.bouquet-de-montmartre.com, m Jules- m Brégeu Sabin. See map on p.163. A
Joffrin. See map on p.154. The decor is welcoming and attractive three-star on a
rather overwhelmingly floral, but the rooms fairly quiet road, handily located for the
are comfortable and very good value at Marais and Bastille. Rooms are equipped
E65, and the location on the corner of live- with minibar, TV and Internet point and are
ly place des Abbesses is excellent. attractively furnished in light oak and pastel
Hôtel Ermitage 24 rue Lamarck t01.42 colours. E130.
.64.79.22, m Anvers. See map on p.154.
A discreet, welcoming, family-run hotel, hid-
den away behind Sacré-Cœur. Rooms are Eastern Paris
slightly chintzy in the classic French man- Hôtel Beaumarchais 3 rue Oberkampf
ner, and the ones at the back have views t01.53.36.86.86, f01.43.38.32.86,
out across northern Paris. Approach via the wwww.hotelbeaumarchais.com,
funicular to avoid a steep climb. Doubles m Filles-du-Calvaire. See map on p.190.
cost E86, breakfast included. A fashionable, funky hotel with personal
Hôtel Langlou/des Croisés 63 rue St- service and colourful 1950s-inspired decor;
Lazare. t01.48.74.78.24, ehotel-des all 31 rooms are en suite with air condition-
-croises@wanadoo.fr. , 150m east of ing, safes and cable TV and cost from E99.
m Trinité. See map on p.154. Superbly Hôtel Gilden-Magenta 35 rue Yves-
genteel hotel that’s hardly changed in half a Toudic t01.42.40.17.72, wwww
century, with a beautiful old lift and unusu- .multi-micro.com/hotel.gilden.magenta,
197
m République. See map on p.190. A run hostel for 18- to 35-year-olds. Book up
friendly hotel, with fresh, colourful decor; to ten days in advance. Accommodation
rooms 61 and 62, up in the attic, are the ranges from singles to eight-bed dorms.
ACCOMMODATION Hostels
best and have views of the Canal St-Martin. From e18.30 per person.
Breakfast is served in a pleasant patio area. Le Fauconnier 11 rue du Fauconnier
Doubles e69. t01.42.74.23.45, f01.40.27.81.64,
m St-Paul/Pont Marie. See map on
p.190. MIJE hostel in a superbly renovated
Hostels seventeenth-century building. Dorms (e27
per person) sleep three to eight, and there
are some single (e42) and double rooms
Hostels are an obvious choice for too (e32 per person), with en-suite show-
a tight budget, but you won’t ers.
necessarily save money on shar- Le Fourcy 6 rue de Fourcy
ing a room in a budget hotel. t01.42.74.23.45, m St Paul. See map
Many now take advance book- on p.190. Another MIJE hostel housed in a
ings, including all three main beautiful mansion, this one has a small gar-
hostel groups: FUAJ den and an inexpensive restaurant. Dorms
(w www.fuaj.fr), which is part of cost e27 per person, and there are some
Hostelling International; UCRIF doubles (e32 per person with shower) and
triples (e28 per person) too.
(w www.ucrif.asso.fr), which
Jules Ferry 8 bd Jules-Ferry
caters largely to groups; and
t01.43.57.55.60, wwww.fuaj.fr,
MIJE (w www.mije.com), which m République. See map on p.154. Fairly
runs three excellent hostels in central HI hostel, in a lively area at the foot
historic buildings in the Marais of the Belleville hill. Difficult to get a place,
district, all of which need to be but they can help find a bed elsewhere.
booked long in advance.You Only two to four people in each room; beds
don’t need to be a member to cost e19.
book – just join when you Maubuisson 12 rue des Barres
arrive. Independent hostels tend t01.42.74.23.45, m Pont Marie/Hôtel de
to be noisier, more youth-ori- Ville. See map on p.190. A MIJE hostel in
ented places, often with bars a magnificent medieval building on a quiet
attached. Hostels usually have a street. Shared use of the restaurant at Le
maximum stay of around a Fourcy (see above). Dorms only, sleeping
four (e27 per person).
week, and there is often a curfew
Woodstock Hostel 48 rue Rodier
at around 2am, though some t01.48.78.87.76, wwww.woodstock.fr,
offer keys or door codes. Except m Anvers/St Georges. See map on
where indicated below, there is p.154. A well-run, friendly hostel in the
no effective age limit. Three Ducks stable, with its own bar. Set in
BVJ Paris Quartier Latin 44 rue des a great location on a pretty street not far
Bernardins t01.43.29.34.80, wwww from Montmartre. Twin rooms available
.bvjhotel.com, m Maubert-Mutualité. See (E22). Book ahead.
map on p.190. Typically institutional UCRIF Young and Happy Hostel 80 rue
hostel, but spick and span and in a good Mouffetard t01.45.35.09.53,
location. Dorm beds (e25), plus single or wwww.youngandhappy.fr,
double rooms (e30/27 per person). m Monge/Censar-Daubenton. See map
Centre International de Paris/Louvre 20 on p.190. Noisy, basic and studenty inde-
rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau pendent hostel in a lively, if a tad touristy,
t01.53.00.90.90, wwww.bvjhotel.com, position. Dorms, with shower, sleep four
m Louvre/Châtelet-Les-Halles. See map (e20 per person), and there are a few dou-
on p.190. A clean, modern and efficiently bles (E25 per person). Curfew at 2am.
198
Essentials
Contents Essentials
Essentials
Contents Essentials
201
Arrival
It’s easy to get from both of Paris’s main more people, E22 for a single person; no
ESSENTIALS
airports to the city centre using the effi- extra charge for luggage; 6am–7.30pm).
cient public transport links. The budget Bookings must be made at least 48 hours
airline airport, Beauvais, is served by in advance on t 01.30.11.13.00, by fax
buses. If you’re arriving by train, of course, (f 01.30.11.13.09) or via their website
it’s easier still: just get on the Métro. w www.airportshuttle.fr.
Taxis into central Paris from CDG cost
By air around E35 on the meter, plus a small
Arrival
The two main Paris airports that deal luggage supplement (E0.90 per item),
with international flights are Roissy- and should take between fifty minutes
Charles de Gaulle and Orly, both well and one hour. Note that if your flight gets
connected to the centre. Information on in after midnight your only means of
them can be found on w www.adp.fr. A transport is a taxi.
third airport, Beauvais, is used by some of
the low-cost airlines. Bear in mind that Orly Airport
you can buy a Paris visite card at the air- Orly Airport (information in English daily
ports which will cover multiple journeys to 6am–11.30pm t 01.49.75.15.15),
and within the city (see p.203). 14km south of Paris, has two terminals,
Orly Sud (south; for international flights)
Roissy-Charles de Gaulle and Orly Ouest (west; for domestic
Airport flights), linked by shuttle bus but easily
Roissy-Charles de Gaulle Airport (24hr walkable.
information in English t 01.48.62.22.80), The easiest way into the centre is the
usually referred to as Charles de Gaulle Orlyval, a fast train shuttle link to RER
and abbreviated to CDG or Paris CDG, is station Antony, from where you can pick
23km northeast of the city. The airport up RER line B trains to the central
has two main terminals, CDG 1 and CDG RER/Métro stations Denfert-Rochereau,
2, linked by a shuttle bus – when you St-Michel and Châtelet-Les Halles; it runs
leave, make sure you check which termi- every four to eight minutes Monday to
nal your flight departs from. Saturday from 6.30am to 11pm, from
There are various ways of getting to the 7am Sundays and holidays (E8.80 one
centre of Paris, but the simplest is the way; 35min to Châtelet). Another service
Roissyrail train link which runs on RER connecting with the RER is the Orlyrail
line B and takes 30 minutes (every bus–rail link: a shuttle bus takes you to
15min 5am–midnight; E7.75 one way). RER line C station Pont de Rungis, from
You can pick it up direct at CDG 2, but where the Orlyrail train leaves every twen-
from CDG 1 you have to get a shuttle bus ty minutes from 5.50am to 10.50pm for
(navette) to the RER station first. The train the Gare d’Austerlitz and other Métro con-
is fast to the Gare du Nord, then stops at nection stops (E5.25 one way; train
Châtelet-Les Halles, St-Michel and Den- 35min, total journey around 50min). Leav-
fert-Rochereau, all of which have Métro ing Paris, the train runs from Gare
stations for onward travel. d’Austerlitz from 5.50am to 11.50pm.
Various bus companies provide servic- Taxis take about 35 minutes to reach
es from the airport direct to various the centre of Paris and cost at least E20.
city-centre locations, but they’re slightly
more expensive than Roissyrail, and may Beauvais Airport
take longer. A more useful alternative is Beauvais Airport ( t 08.92.68.20.66,
the Blue Vans door-to-door minibus serv- w www.aeroportbeauvais.com) is a fair
ice (E14.50 per head if there are two or distance from Paris – some 65km north-
Contents Essentials
202
west – and is used by some budget air- (place du Havre), serves the Normandy
lines. Coaches (E20 return) shuttle coast and Dieppe, the Gare de Lyon
between the airport and Porte Maillot, at (place Louis-Armand) serves Italy,
the northwestern edge of Paris, where Switzerland and TGV trains to southeast
you can pick up Métro line 1 to the cen- France. South of the river, the Gare
City transport ESSENTIALS
tre. Coaches take about an hour, and Montparnasse (bd de Vaugirard) is the
leave between fifteen and thirty minutes terminus for Chartres, Brittany, the
after the flight has arrived and about Atlantic coast and TGV lines to southwest
three hours before the flight departs on France and the Loire Valley; the Gare
the way back. Tickets can be bought at d’Austerlitz (bd de l’Hôpital) serves ordi-
Arrivals or from the Beauvais shop at 1 nary trains to the Loire Valley and the
boulevard Pershing, near the Porte Mail- Dordogne. The motorail station, Gare de
lot terminal. Paris-Bercy, is down the tracks from the
Gare de Lyon on boulevard de Bercy.
By rail For information on national train serv-
Eurostar ( t 08.36.35.35.39, w www ices and reservations phone t 08
.eurostar.com) trains terminate at the .36.35.35.39 (if you dial extension 2 you
Gare du Nord, rue Dunkerque, in the should go through to an English-speaking
northeast of the city – a bustling conver- operator) or consult the website
gence of international, long-distance and w www.sncf.fr. For information on subur-
suburban trains, the Métro and several ban lines call t 01.53.90.20.20. You can
bus routes. Coming off the train, turn left buy tickets at any train station, at travel
for the Métro and the RER, immediately agents and online at the SNCF website.
right and through the side door for taxis
(roughly E10 to the centre). The Eurostar By road
offices and check-in point for departures If you’re arriving by bus – international or
are both located on the mezzanine level, domestic – you’ll almost certainly arrive at
above the main station entrance. the main gare routière at 28 av du
Gare du Nord is also the arrival point Général-de-Gaulle, Bagnolet, at the eastern
for trains from Calais and northern Euro- edge of the city; Métro Gallieni (line 3) links
pean countries such as Belgium, it to the centre. If you’re driving in yourself,
Germany and the Netherlands. Paris has don’t try to go straight across the city to
five other mainline train stations, part of your destination. Use the ring road – the
the national SNCF network: the Gare de boulevard périphérique – to get around
l’Est (place du 11-Novembre-1918) to the nearest porte: it’s much quicker
serves eastern France and central and (sometimes frighteningly so), except at
eastern Europe; the Gare St-Lazare rush hour, and far easier to navigate.
City transport
While walking is undoubtedly the best
way to discover Paris, the city’s integrat-
RATP
ed public transport system of bus, Métro For 24-hour recorded information in Eng-
and trains – RATP – is quick, inexpensive lish on all RATP services call
and efficient. Even the Batobus along the t 08.92.68.41.14 (premium rate) or visit
river comes under part of the same net- w www.ratp.fr.
work. Taxis are surprisingly thin on the
ground. Tickets and passes
The standard RATP ticket (E1.30 one
way) is valid for any one-way Métro, bus
Contents Essentials
203
or RER express rail ride anywhere within the information point in the departure
the city limits and immediate suburbs lounge area of Waterloo International.
(zones 1 and 2). Only one ticket is ever
needed on the Métro system, but you The Métro and RER
can’t switch between buses or between The Métro, combined with the RER sub-
ESSENTIALS
bus and Métro/RER on the same ticket. urban express lines, is the simplest way
For a short stay in the city, consider buy- of moving around the city. Both run from
ing a reduced-price carnet of ten tickets around 5.30am to roughly 12.30am.
(E10). All tickets are available from sta- Lines are colour-coded and designated
tions and tabacs (newsagent/tobacconist) by numbers for the Métro and letters for
– don’t buy from the illegal touts. Chil- the RER. Platforms are signposted using
dren under 4 travel free, and kids aged 4 the name of the terminus station; travel-
City transport
to 10 pay half price. Officially, you’re sup- ling north from Montparnasse to
posed to keep your ticket until the end of Châtelet, for example, you need to follow
the journey but you only actually need it the signs for “Direction Porte-de-Clignan-
to get through the entrance gates. court”, at the northernmost end of the
If you’re travelling beyond the city limits line. For RER journeys beyond the city,
(zones 3–5), to La Défense, for example, make sure that the station you want is
note that you’ll need a separate RER illuminated on the platform display board.
ticket. Night buses (Noctambus) require Free maps are available at most stations.
separate tickets costing E2.50 each (buy Stations (abbreviated: M Concorde,
these on board), unless you have a week- RER Luxembourg, and so on) are evenly
ly or monthly travel pass (see below). spaced and usually very close together,
Mobilis day passes (E5.20) give unlim- though interchanges can involve a lot of
ited access to the Métro, buses and RER legwork. Many lines simply shadow the
trains within the city limits (zones 1 and 2). boulevards above.
If you’ve arrived early in the week and are
staying a few days, it might be more eco- Buses
nomical to buy the Carte Orange weekly Buses are often neglected in favour of
coupon (E14.50 for zones 1 and 2) which the Métro but can be very useful where
is valid for an unlimited number of jour- the Métro journey doesn’t quite work.
neys from Monday morning to Sunday Every bus stop displays the numbers of
evening; you can buy it at all Métro sta- the buses that stop there and a map
tions and tabacs up until the Wednesday – showing all the stops on the route. Free
you’ll need a passport photo. On the Métro route maps are available from Métro
you put the Carte Orange coupon through stations. Generally speaking, buses run
the turnstile slot (make sure you retrieve it from 6.30am to 8.30pm with a reduced
afterwards); on a bus you show the whole service continuing to 1.30am; around
carte to the driver as you board – don’t half the lines don’t operate on Sundays
put it into the punching machine. and holidays. Night buses (Noctambus)
Paris Visite cards can be good value if run on eighteen routes every hour (extra
bought at the airport when you arrive as services on weekends) from 1am to
they cover all travel within the city limits 5.30am. Tickets (E1.30) are inter-
plus the airport rail links, Versailles and changeable with Métro tickets, and can
Disneyland Paris, as well as offering be bought from the driver; make sure you
minor reductions on a few more touristy put your ticket in the little stamping
attractions. They cost E8.35, E13.70, machine at the entrance to validate it.
E18.25 and E26.65 for one, two, three Some bus routes are particularly good
and five days respectively, and can begin for sightseeing, notably bus #20 (the
on any day. A half-price child’s version is only one that’s wheelchair accessible);
also available. You can buy these passes bus #29, which has an open platform at
from Métro stations and tourist offices or, the back; bus #24, along the Left Bank;
if you’re travelling to Paris by Eurostar, at and bus #73, down the Voie Triomphale.
Contents Essentials
204
Taxis 30 minutes, and tickets cost E2.50 for
the first stop, E2.50 for subsequent
The best place to get a taxi is at one of stops, E10 for a day pass or E12.50 for
the taxi ranks found at major junctions a two-day pass.
or railway stations (arrêt taxi) – usually
more effective than trying to hail one
Cycling
City transport ESSENTIALS
from the street. Taxis can be any colour

but carry distinctive roof lights – the large Cycling in Paris is as scary as you’d
white light signals the taxi is free; the expect in a capital city, and there are lots
orange light means it’s in use. You can of awkward one-way streets to find your
also call a taxi out: phone numbers are way around. That said, you can almost
shown at the taxi ranks, or try Taxis Bleus always find a quiet back route, and the
(t08.91.70.10.10, Alpha Taxis (t01.45 town hall has made great efforts to intro-
.85.85.85) or Artaxi (t01.42.03.50.50). duce cycle lanes. You can pick up a free
That said, finding a taxi at lunchtime and leaflet, Paris à Vélo, outlining the routes,
any time after 7pm can be almost from town halls, the tourist office or bike
impossible. rental outlets.
Charges – always metered – are fairly Between May and September, a num-
reasonable: between E6.50 and E11 for ber of the roads along the Seine (the
a central daytime journey, though consid- quais ) are closed off on Sundays and
erably more if you call one out. Different public holidays (10am–6pm). They’re
day/night and city/suburb rates apply per popular places for cyclists and in-line
kilometre, and there’s a minimum charge skaters to meet up. The right bank of the
of E5, a time charge of around E20 an Seine is freed of traffic from the Tuileries
hour for when the car is stationary, an to Trocadéro, in the west, and from the
extra charge of E0.75 if you’re picked up Pont d’Austerlitz to the edge of the city, in
from a mainline train station, and a the east; over on the Left Bank the roads
E0.90 charge for each piece of luggage are shut off from the Musée d’Orsay to
carried. A discretionary ten percent tip is the western side of the city. The quais
usual. Taxi drivers do not have to take along the Canal St-Martin are also closed
more than three passengers (they don’t on Sundays (2–6pm).
like people sitting in the front); if a fourth Prices for bike rental usually range
passenger is accepted, an extra charge from about E15–20 a day.
of E2.50 will be added. Bike ’n’ Roller 38 rue Fabert
t 01.45.50.38.27, w www.bikenroller.fr
Batobus (MInvalides). Also rents out rollerblades.
A pleasant alternative to road and rail, Daily 10am–7pm.
the Batobus boat shuttle ( w www Paris À Vélo C’est Sympa 37 bd Bourdon
.batobus.com) operates from April to t 01.48.87.60.01, w www.paris
October stopping at eight points along velosympa.com (MBastille). One of the
the Seine in the following order: Port de least expensive (from E24 for the week-
la Bourdonnais ( M Eiffel Tower/Tro- end). Also does excellent three-hour bike
cadéro), quai de Solférino (MAssemblée tours of Paris (E30). Daily 9am–7pm,
Nationale), quai Malaquais ( MSt-Ger- closed weekdays 1–2pm.
main-des-Prés), quai de Montebello
(M Notre-Dame), quai St Bernard (Jardin Paris-Vélo 2 rue du Fer-à-Moulin
des Plantes), quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (M t 01.43.37.59.22 (MCensier-Dauben-
Hôtel de Ville/Centre-Pompidou), quai du ton). 21-speed and mountain bikes.
Louvre ( M Musée du Louvre) and Port Mon–Sat 10am–12.30pm & 2–7pm.
des Champs-Elysées (Champs-Elysées). RATP/Maison Roue Libre 1 passage
Boats run every 25 minutes from 10am Mondétour t 01.48.15.28.88 ( M Eti-
to 9pm (until 7pm only in April, May and enne-Marcel/Les Halles). RATP, the public
October). The total journey time is around bus- and Métro-operating company, rents
Contents Essentials
205
out bikes from this site, open daily Vincennes and Bois de Boulogne bus sta-
9am–7pm. On weekends between March tions; on Sundays, another cyclobus
and October, RATP also hires out bikes parks at 4 ave Victoria, on place du
from “cyclobuses” parked at the Bois de Châtelet (MChâtelet).
ESSENTIALS
Information
The main Paris tourist office is at 127 av For detailed what’s-on information it’s
des Champs-Elysées (daily 9am–8pm, worth buying one of Paris’s inexpensive
Information
except Oct–March Sun 11am–7pm; t weekly listings magazines from a
08.92.68.31.12, wwww.paris-touristoffice newsagent or kiosk. The best and glossi-
.com; MCharles-de-Gaulle–Etoile). There est is Zurban ( w www.zurban.com),
are branch offices at the Gare de Lyon though Pariscope (w www.pariscope.com)
(Mon–Sat 8am–8pm), the Eiffel Tower has a comprehensive section on films and
(May–Sept daily 11am–6.40pm) and at 2 an English-language endpage section put
rue Auber, near the Opéra Garnier together by Time Out. For more detail,
(Mon–Sat 9am–6.30pm). They give out French speakers should check out the
information on Paris and the suburbs, can monthly Nova magazine, while the free
book hotel accommodation for you, and monthly magazine Paris Voice
they also sell the Carte Musées et Monu- (w www.parisvoice.com), available online
ments (see p.206), travel passes and and from English-language bookshops,
phone cards. It’s also worth picking up the has good listings as well as ads for flats
free Paris Map – this might be behind the and courses. Good nightlife listings are
counter, so you’ll need to ask. available at w www.parissi.com.
Alternative sources of information are The maps in this guide and the free
the Hôtel de Ville information office – Paris Map (see above) should be ade-
Bureau d’Accueil – at 29 rue de Rivoli quate for a short sightseeing stay, but for
(Mon–Sat 9am–6pm; t 01.42.76.43.43, a more detailed map your best bet is one
w www.paris-france.org; MHôtel de Ville), of the pocket-sized “L’indispensable”
and the Espace du Tourisme d’Île de series booklets, sold everywhere in Paris.
France, within the Carrousel du Louvre, The Michelin 1:10,000 Plan de Paris is
underground below the triumphal arch at comprehensive but unwieldy; more con-
the east end of the Tuileries (daily except venient are the Rough Guide Map: Paris,
Tues 10am–7pm; t 01.44 produced on waterproof, crease-resistant
.50.19.98), which has information on paper, and the Falkplan, which folds out
attractions and activities in Paris and the only as you need it.
surrounding area.
Museums and
monuments
Entrance tickets to museums and mon- vre, Musée d’Orsay and Pompidou Cen-
uments can really add up, though the tre) are free on the first Sunday of the
permanent collections at all municipal month – see w www.rmn.fr for a full list.
museums are free all year round, while Each institution has its own policy for
all national museums (including the Lou- children and teenagers. In many muse-
Contents Essentials
206
ums under-18s go free, while all monu- are still working or not), reductions are
ments are free for under-12s. Under-4s often available; you’ll need to carry your
almost always get free admission. Half- passport around with you as proof of age.
price or reduced admission is normally If you are going to do a lot of museum
available for 5- to 18-year-olds and stu- duty, consider buying the Carte Musées
Festivals and events ESSENTIALS
dents, though some commercial et Monuments (E15 one day, E30

attractions charge adult rates from 12. The three day, E45 five day). Available from
ISIC Card (International Student Identity the tourist office, RER/Métro stations and
Card; wwww.isiccard.com) is usually the museums, as well as the Eurostar termi-
only card accepted for reduced-price stu- nal at London Waterloo, it’s valid for
dent admission – often around a third off. seventy museums and monuments in
For those over 60 or 65, depending on and around Paris, and allows you to
the institution (regardless of whether you bypass ticket queues.
Festivals and events

Paris hosts an impressive roster of festi- Tour de France
vals and events. Arguably the city’s On the third or fourth Sunday of July,
biggest jamboree is Bastille Day on July Paris stages the final romp home of the
14 but there’s invariably something on to Tour de France and thousands line the
add extra colour to your stay. route to cheer the cyclists to the finish
line on the Champs-Elysées.
Foire du Trône
Funfairs make a regular appearance in Paris Plage
the capital, one of the most popular being Paris Plage (“Paris Beach”) is the trans-
the Foire du Trône ( w www.foiredu formation of part of the Seine into a
trone.com), held in April and May in the “beach” from mid-July to mid-August,
Parc de Reuilly in the Bois de Vincennes complete with real sand, deckchairs and
(Porte Dorée entrance). palm trees.
Fête de la Musique Festival d’Automne

On June 21, the Fête de la Musique Running from the last week of September
(w www.fetedelamusique.culture.fr), busk until Christmas, the Festival d’Automne
ers take to the streets and free concerts ( w www.festival-automne.com), is an
are held across the whole city in a fun day international festival of theatre and music,
of music making. much of it avant-garde and exciting.
Gay Pride Nuit Blanche

Gay and Lesbian Pride march ( w www Nuit Blanche (wwww.paris.fr), held in early
.gaypride.fr) on the last Saturday of June. A October, is a night-long festival of poetry
flamboyant parade of floats and costumes readings, concerts and performance art
makes it way to the Bastille, followed by held in galleries, bars, restaurants and
partying and club events with top DJs. public buildings across the city.
Bastille Day Public holidays

On Bastille Day, July 14, the city celebrates France celebrates thirteen national holi-
the 1789 storming of the Bastille. The party days: January 1; Easter Sunday; Easter
starts the evening before with dancing Monday; Ascension Day; Whitsun; Whit
around place de la Bastille; in the morning Monday; May 1; May 8; July 14; August
is the military march-past down the 15; November 1; November 11; Decem-
Champs-Elysées followed by fireworks. ber 25. May is particularly festive.
Contents Essentials
207
Directory
ADDRESSES Paris is divided into twen- CINEMAS Paris has a world-renowned
ty districts, or arrondissements. The concentration of cinemas and moviegoers
ESSENTIALS
first arrondissement, or “1er” is centred can chose from around three hundred
on the Louvre, in the heart of the city. films showing in any one week. Tickets
The rest wind outward in a clockwise rarely need to be purchased in advance
direction like a snail’s shell: the 2e, 3e and are good-value at around E8. Le
and 4e are central; the 5e, 6e and 7e Grand Rex 1 bd Poissonnière M Bonne
lie on the inner part of the left (south) Nouvelle. Famously kitsch Art-Deco cine-
bank; while the 8e–20e make up the ma showing blockbusters (usually
Directory
outer districts. Parisian addresses dubbed). Max Linder Panorama 24 bd
always quote the arrondissement, Poissonnière M Bonne Nouvelle. Opposite
along with the nearest Métro station or Le Grand Rex, this 1930s cinema shows
stations, too. films in the original format and has state-
BANKS AND EXCHANGE On the whole, of-the-art sound. La Pagode 57 bis rue de
the best exchange rates are offered by Babylone M François-Xavier. The most
banks, though there’s always a commis- beautiful of the city’s cinemas, La Pagode
sion charge on top. Be very wary of is a superb reproduction of a Japanese
bureaux de change, which cluster round pagoda. Reflet Medicis Logos, Quartier
arrival points and tourist spots, as they Latin and Le Champo 3 rue Champollion,
can really rip you off. Standard banking 9 rue Champollion and 51 rue des Ecoles
hours are Monday to Friday from 9am to M Cluny-La-Sorbonne/Odéon. A cluster of
4 or 5pm. Some banks close for lunch; inventive little cinemas offering up rare
some are open on Saturday 9am to noon; screening and classics.
all are closed on Sunday and public holi- CRIME Petty theft sometimes occurs on
days. Money-exchange bureaux stay the Métro, at train stations and at tourist
open until 6 or 7pm, tend not to close for hotspots such as Les Halles and around
lunch and may even open on Sundays in rue de la Huchette, in the Quartier Latin.
the more touristy areas. Serious crime against tourists is rare. The
Préfecture de Police de Paris, for report-
BATEAUX MOUCHES Tourist boats operat-
ing thefts, is at 7 boulevard du Palais
ing on The Seine are known in general as
(t 01.53.73.53.73). For rape crisis (SOS
“bateaux mouches”, operators include:
Viol) call t 08.00.05.95.95.
Bateaux-Mouches Information t 01.40
.76.99.99, reservations t 01.42.25 DISABLED TRAVELLERS Paris has no
.96.10 w www.bateaux-mouches.fr. special reputation for providing ease of
M Alma-Marceau. Departs from the access or facilities for disabled travellers.
Embarcadère du Pont de l’Alma on the The way cars park on pavements makes
Right Bank. Rides last an hour. High-sea- wheelchair travel a nightmare, and the
son departures 10am–11pm every 20 to Métro system has endless flights of
30 mins, low season confirmed depar- steps. Museums, however, are getting
tures 11am, 2.30pm, 4pm, 6pm and much better. Up-to-date information is
9pm. Adults E7, children and seniors best obtained from organizations at home
E4. Bateaux Parisiens t 01.43.26.92.55 before you leave, or the French tourist
w www.bateauxparisiens.com M St- board (w www.franceguide.com)
Michel. Departs from Port de la EMBASSIES AND CONSULATES Aus-
Bourdonnais on the Left Bank near the tralia, 4 rue Jean-Rey, 15e t 01.40
Eiffel Tower. High season departures every .59.33.00, w www.austgov.fr (Mº Bir-
30 mins 10am–11pm, low season every Hakeim); Canada, 35 av Montaigne, 8e
30 mins 1pm–5pm & 8–10pm and every t01.44.43.29.00, wwww.amb-canada.fr
hour 10am–1pm & 5pm–8pm. (M Franklin-D-Roosevelt); Ireland, 4 rue
Contents Essentials
208
Rude, 16e t01.44.17.67.00 (MCharles- Sat 8am–noon. However, Paris’s main
de-Gaulle-Etoile); New Zealand, 7 rue office, at 52 rue du Louvre, 1er (M Eti-
Léonard-de-Vinci, 16e t01.45.00.24.11 enne-Marcel), is open 24 hours for all
(MVictor-Hugo); UK, 35 rue du Faubourg postal services (but not banking). The
St-Honoré, 8e t01.44.51.31.00, easiest place to buy ordinary stamps
Directory ESSENTIALS
wwww.amb-grandebretagne.fr (MCon- (timbres) is at a tabac (tobacconist).

corde); US, 2 rue St-Florentin, 1er Postcards (cartes postales) and letters
t01.43.12.22.22, wwww.amb-usa.fr (lettres) up to 20g cost E0.50 for the UK
(MConcorde). and EU, and E90 for North America,
EMERGENCIES Ambulance t 15; police Asia and Oceania. For anything heavier,
t 17; fire t 18. most post offices now have yellow-
coloured guichet automatiques that
GAY AND LESBIAN TRAVELLERS Paris weigh your letter or package and give
has a vibrant, upfront gay community, you the correct stamps.
and full-on prejudice or hostility is rare.
Legally, France is liberal as regards RACISM Paris has an unfortunate repu-
homosexuality, with legal consent start- tation for racism, but harassment of
ing at 16 and laws protecting gay tourists is unlikely to be a problem. That
couples’ rights. Useful contacts and list- said, there are reports of unpleasant
ings can be found in the excellent glossy incidents such as restaurants claiming to
monthly magazine, Têtu (w www.tetu be fully booked, or shopkeepers with a
.com), or online at w www.france suspicious eye, and travellers of north
tourism.com/gayguide/index.asp. African or Arab appearance may be
unlucky enough to encounter outright
HEALTH Pharmacies can give good advice hostility or excessive police interest.
on minor complaints, offer appropriate
medicines and recommend a doctor. British TELEPHONES Almost all public phones
citizens with form E111 (from post offices) take phonecards (télécartes), sold at rail-
can take advantage of French health serv- way stations and tabacs. Many call
ices. Non-EU citizens are strongly advised boxes also accept credit cards, but coin-
to take out travel insurance. operated phones are rare. For calling
within Paris, you’ll always need to dial
INTERNET Internet access is everywhere the regional code first – t 01. Local
in Paris – if it’s not in your hotel there’ll calls are inexpensive, especially off peak,
likely be a café close by, and there are lots though hotel phones usually carry a sig-
of points internet around the city centre. nificant mark-up. Domestic and
Most post offices, too, have a computer international off-peak rates run at week-
geared up for public Internet access. ends and weekdays from 7pm to 8am.
MONEY All ATMs – distributeurs or At peak rates, E1 gets you about five
points argent, found everywhere – give minutes to the US or Britain. The number
instructions in French or English. You can for French directory enquiries and opera-
also use credit cards for (interest-paying) tor assistance is t 12.
cash advances at banks and in ATMs, France operates on the European GSM
though some cards are rejected by mobile phone standard, so travellers
French machines, which are set up to from Britain can bring theirs from home;
read the little golden chip on the front US cellphones, however, won’t work in
rather than the magnetic strip on the Paris unless they’re tri-band.
back – if this happens, just try another TIPPING Service is almost always includ-
machine. When paying for things with a ed in restaurant bills, so you don’t need
credit or debit card, you may be present- to leave more than small change. Taxi
ed with a keypad and asked to tap in drivers and hairdressers expect around
your PIN rather than sign a receipt. ten percent. You should tip only at the
POST French post offices (la Poste) – most expensive hotels; in other cases
look for bright yellow-and-blue signs – you’re probably tipping the proprietor or
are generally open Mon–Fri 8am–7pm, their family.
Contents Essentials
Language
Contents Language
Language
Contents Language
211
Basics
LANGUAGE Basics
Paris isn’t the easiest place to learn French: many Parisians speak a
hurried slang and will often reply to your carefully enunciated question
in English. Despite this, it’s worth making the effort, and knowing a few
essentials can make all the difference. Even just saying “Bonjour mon-
sieur/madame” and then gesticulating will usually secure you a smile
and helpful service.
What follows is a run-down of essential words and phrases. For more
detail, get French: A Rough Guide Dictionary Phrase Book, which has
an extensive vocabulary, a detailed menu reader and useful dialogues.
Pronunciation
Vowels are the hardest sounds to get right. Roughly:
a as in hat o as in hot
e as in get o/au as in over
é between get and gate ou as in food
è between get and gut u as in a pursed-lip, clipped version
eu like the u in hurt of toot
i as in machine
More awkward are the combinations in/im, en/em, on/om, un/um
at the end of words, or followed by consonants other than n or m.
Again, roughly:
in/im like the “an” in anxious on/om like “on” said by some-
an/am, en/em like “on” said with a one with a heavy cold
nasal accent un/um like the “u” in under-
stand
Consonants are much as in English, except that ch is always sh, h is

silent, th is the same as t, ll is like the y in “yes” when preceded by
the letter “i”, w is v, and r is growled (or rolled).
Words and phrases

Basics Good morning/ Bonjour
afternoon
Yes Oui Good evening Bonsoir
No Non Good night Bonne nuit
Please S’il vous plaît How are you? Comment allez-
Thank you Merci vous?/Ça va?
Excuse me Pardon/excusez-moi Fine, thanks Très bien, merci
Sorry Pardon, madame/Je I don’t know Je ne sais pas
m’excuse Do you speak Vous parlez anglais?
Hello Bonjour English?
Hello (phone) Allô How do you say Comment ça se
Goodbye Au revoir …in French? dit…en français?
Contents Language
212
What’s your Comment vous
Getting around
name? appelez-vous?
My name is … Je m’appelle … Which way is it S’il vous plaît, pour
I’m English/ Je suis anglais(e)/ to the Eiffel aller à la Tour
Basics LANGUAGE
Irish/ irlandais(e)/ Tower? Eiffel?

Scottish/ écossais(e)/ Where is the Où est le Métro le
Welsh/ gallois(e)/ nearest Métro? plus proiche?
American/ américain(e)/ Bus Bus
OK/agreed D’accord Bus stop Arrêt
I understand Je comprends Train Train
I don’t Je ne comprends pas Boat Bâteau
understand Plane Avion
Can you speak S’il vous plaît, parlez Railway station Gare
slower? moins vite Platform Quai
Today Aujourd’hui What time does Il part à quelle heure?
Yesterday Hier it leave?
Tomorrow Demain What time does Il arrive à quelle
In the morning Le matin it arrive? heure?
In the afternoon L’après-midi A ticket to … Un billet pour …
In the evening Le soir Single ticket Aller simple
Now Maintenant Return ticket Aller retour
Later Plus tard Where are you Vous allez où?
Here Ici going?
There Là I’m going to … Je vais à …
This one Ceci I want to get Je voudrais
That one Cela off at … descendre à …
Open Ouvert Near Près/pas loin
Closed Fermé Far Loin
Big Grand Left À gauche
Small Petit Right À droite
More Plus
Less Moins Accommodation
A little Un peu
A lot Beaucoup A room for one Une chambre pour
Half La moitié /two people une/deux
Inexpensive Bon marché/Pas cher personnes
Expensive Cher With a double bed Avec un grand lit
Good Bon A room with a Une chambre avec
Bad Mauvais shower douche
Hot Chaud A room with a bath Une chambre avec
Cold Froid salle de bains
With Avec For one/two/ Pour une/deux/trois
Without Sans three nights nuit(s)
With a view Avec vue
Questions Key Clef
To iron Repasser
Where? Où? Do laundry Faire la lessive
How? Comment? Sheets Draps
How many Combien? Blankets Couvertures
How much is it? C’est combien? Quiet Calme
When? Quand? Noisy Bruyant
Why? Pourquoi? Hot water Eau chaude
At what time? À quelle heure? Cold water Eau froide
What is/Which is?Quel est? Is breakfast Est-ce que le petit
included? déjeuner est
compris?
Contents Language
213
3 trois
I would like Je voudrais prendre 4 quatre
breakfast le petit déjeuner 5 cinq
I don’t want Je ne veux pas le 6 six
breakfast petit déjeuner 7 sept
LANGUAGE Basics
Youth hostel Auberge de jeunesse 8 huit
9 neuf
Eating out 10 dix
11 onze
I’d like to reserve Je voudrais réserver
12 douze
…a table …une table
13 treize
…for two people, …pour deux
14 quatorze
personnes
15 quinze
at eight thirty à vingt heures et
16 seize
demie
17 dix-sept
I’m having the Je prendrai le menu
18 dix-huit
E15 menu à quinze euros
19 dix-neuf
Waiter! Monsieur/madame!
20 vingt
(never “garçon”)
21 vingt-et-un
The bill, please l’addition, s’il vous
22 vingt-deux
plaît
30 trente
40 quarante
Days 50 cinquante
Monday Lundi 60 soixante
Tuesday Mardi 70 soixante-dix
Wednesday Mercredi 75 soixante-quinze
Thursday Jeudi 80 quatre-vingts
Friday Vendredi 90 quatre-vingt-dix
Saturday Samedi 95 quatre-vingt-quinze
Sunday Dimanche 100 cent
101 cent un
Numbers 200 deux cents
1000 mille
1 un 2000 deux mille
2 deux 1,000,000 un million
Menu reader
Essentials couteau knife
cuillère spoon
déjeuner lunch bio organic
dîner dinner à la vapeur steamed
menu set menu au four baked
à la carte individually priced cru raw
dishes frit fried
entrées starters fumé smoked
les plats main courses grillé grilled
pain bread rôti roast
beurre butter salé salted/savoury
fromage cheese sucré sweet
oeufs eggs à emporter takeaway
lait milk
poivre pepper Drinks
sel salt
sucre sugar eau minérale mineral water
fourchette fork eau gazeuse fizzy water
Contents Language
214
eau plate still water moules mussels (with shallots
carte des vins wine list (marinière) in white wine sauce)
une pression a glass of beer raie skate
un café coffee (espresso) rouget red mullet
Menu reader LANGUAGE
un crème white coffee saumon salmon

bouteille bottle sole sole
verre glass thon tuna
un quart/demi a quarter/half-litre of truite trout
de rouge/blanc red/white house turbot turbot
wine
Un (verre de) a glass of white/red Meat (viande) and poultry
rouge/blanc wine (volaille)
Snacks agneau lamb
andouillette tripe sausage
crêpe pancake (sweet) bavette beef flank steak
un sandwich sandwich bœuf beef
/une baguette bifteck steak
croque grilled cheese & ham boudin noir black pudding
-monsieur sandwich caille quail
panini flat toasted italian canard duck
sandwich contrefilet sirloin roast
omelette omelette dinde turkey
nature plain entrecôte ribsteak
aux fines with herbs faux filet sirloin steak
herbes foie liver
au fromage with cheese foie gras fattened (duck/goose)
assiette anglaise plate of cold meats liver
crudités raw vegetables with gigot (d’agneau) leg (of lamb)
dressings grillade grilled meat
hachis chopped meat or mince
Fish (poisson) and seafood hamburger
(fruits de mer) jambon ham
lapin, lapereau rabbit, young rabbit
anchois anchovies
lard, lardons bacon, diced bacon
brème bream
merguez spicy, red sausage
brochet pike
oie goose
cabillaud cod
onglet cut of beef
carrelet plaice
porc pork
colin hake
poulet chicken
coquilles scallops
poussin baby chicken
st-jacques
rognons kidneys
crabe crab
tête de veau calf’s head (in jelly)
crevettes shrimps/prawns
veau veal
daurade sea bream
venaison venison
flétan halibut
friture whitebait
hareng herring
Steaks
homard lobster bleu almost raw
huîtres oysters saignant rare
langoustines crayfish (scampi) à point medium
limande lemon sole bien cuit well done
lotte de mer monkfish
loup de mer sea bass Garnishes and sauces
maquereau mackerel
merlan whiting beurre blanc sauce of white wine &
morue dried, salted cod shallots, with butter
Contents Language
215
chasseur white wine, mushrooms Fruits (fruits) and nuts (noix)
& shallots
forestière with bacon & abricot apricot
mushroom amandes almonds
LANGUAGE Menu reader

fricassée rich, creamy sauce ananas pineapple
mornay cheese sauce banane banana
pays d’auge cream & cider brugnon, nectarine
piquante gherkins or capers, nectarine
vinegar & shallots cacahouète peanut
provençale tomatoes, garlic, olive cassis blackcurrants
oil & herbs cerises cherries
citron lemon
Vegetables (légumes), herbs citron vert lime
(herbes) and spices (épices) figues figs
fraises strawberries
ail garlic framboises raspberries
artichaut artichoke groseilles redcurrants &
asperges asparagus gooseberries
basilic basil mangue mango
betterave beetroot marrons chestnuts
carotte carrot melon melon
céleri celery noisette hazelnut
champignons mushrooms noix nuts
chou (rouge) (red) cabbage orange orange
chou-fleur cauliflower pamplemousse grapefruit
concombre cucumber pêche peach
cornichon gherkin pistache pistachio
échalotes shallots poire pear
endive chicory pomme apple
épinards spinach prune plum
estragon tarragon pruneau prune
fenouil fennel raisins grapes
flageolets white beans
gingembre ginger Desserts (desserts or entremets)
haricots beans and pastries (pâtisserie)
verts string (french)
rouges kidney bavarois refers to the mould,
beurres butter could be mousse or
lentilles lentils custard
maïs corn (maize) brioche sweet, high yeast
moutarde mustard breakfast roll
oignon onion coupe a serving of ice
pâtes pasta cream
persil parsley crème chantilly vanilla-flavoured &
petits pois peas sweetened whipped
pois chiche chickpeas cream
poireau leek crème fraîche sour cream
poivron sweet pepper crème pâtissière thick eggy pastry-filling
(vert, rouge) (green, red) fromage blanc cream cheese
pommes potatoes glace ice cream
(de terre) parfait frozen mousse,
primeurs spring vegetables sometimes ice
riz rice cream
safran saffron petits fours bite-sized
salade verte green salad cakes/pastries
tomate tomato tarte tart
truffes truffles yaourt, yogourt yoghurt
Contents Language
Useful stuff
Numbers
1 un 2 deux 3 trois 4 quatre 5 cinq 6 six 7 sept 8 huit
9 neuf 10 dix 11 onze 12 douze 13 treize 14 quatorze
15 quinze 16 seize 17 dix-sept 18 dix-huit 19 dix-neuf
20 vingt 21 vingt-et-un 22 vingt-deux 30 trente
40 quarante 50 cinquante 60 soixante 70 soixante-dix
80 quatre-vingt 90 quatre-vingt-dix 100 cent 1000 mille
Getting started
yes/no Oui/non hello/good morning bonjour please s’il
vous plaît thank you merci not at all/you’re welcome de
rien sorry pardon excuse me excusez-moi excuse me (to
attract attention) s’il vous plaît, monsieur/madame
Do you speak English? Est-ce que vous parlez anglais?
I don’t understand Je ne comprends pas ok d’accord good
evening/night bonsoir/bonne nuit goodbye au revoir
help! au secours!
Restaurants and shops

What’s this? Qu’est-ce que c’est? I’d like Je voudrais
I’d like to reserve a table Je voudrais reserver une table
for two people at 8.30pm, pour deux personnes, à vingt
heures trente smoking/non-smoking fumeur/non-fumeur
the menu la carte set menu menu the bill l’addition this
one/that one celui-ci/celui-là how much is it? c’est combi-
en? toilet/rest room les toilettes
more/less plus/moins
Useful signs
entrée/sortie entry/exit ouvert/fermé open/closed horaires
opening times poussez/tirez push/pull hors service
out of order gratuit free
Contents Useful Stuff

Index and small print
Contents Index and Small Print

218
A Rough Guide to Rough Guides
Paris DIRECTIONS is published by Rough Guides. The first Rough Guide to Greece, published in
1982, was a student scheme that became a publishing phenomenon. The immediate success of
the book – with numerous reprints and a Thomas Cook prize shortlisting – spawned a series
that rapidly covered dozens of destinations. Rough Guides had a ready market among low-budg-
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Rough Guides’ wit and inquisitiveness as much as their enthusiastic, critical approach. Everyone
wants value for money, but not at any price. Rough Guides soon began supplementing the
INDEX
“rougher” information about hostels and low-budget listings with the kind of detail on restau-
rants and quality hotels that independent-minded visitors on any budget might expect, whether
on business in New York or trekking in Thailand. These days the guides offer recommendations
from shoestring to luxury and a large number of destinations around the globe, including almost
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tralasia. Rough Guides now publish:
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Visit www.roughguides.com to see our latest publications.
Publishing Information
This 1st edition published May 2004 by Rough © Rough Guides May 2004
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345 Hudson St, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10014, form without permission from the publisher except
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Distributed by the Penguin Group 224pp includes index
Penguin Books Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL A catalogue record for this book is available from
Penguin Group (USA), 375 Hudson Street, NY the British Library
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Penguin Group (Canada), 10 Alcorn Avenue, ensure the accuracy and currency of all the infor-
Toronto, Ontario, Canada M4V 1E4 mation in Paris DIRECTIONS, however, they can
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Auckland 10, New Zealand inconvenience sustained by any traveller as a result
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219
Rough Guide Credits
Text editors: Geoff Howard, Andy Turner Picture research: Mark Thomas
Layout: Diana Jarvis Proofreader: Carole Mansur
Photography: James McConnachie Production: Julia Bovis
Cartography: Rough Guides Delhi team Design: Henry Iles
The authors
INDEX
Ruth Blackmore is a Senior Editor at Rough James McConnachie is a writer and photogra-
Guides in London. She is the co-author of the pher based in London. He is the author of the
Rough Guide to Paris and a contributor to the Rough Guide to the Loire and co-author of the
Rough Guide to France and the Rough Guide to Rough Guides to Paris and Nepal. He has also
Classical Music. contributed to the Rough Guides to France, Spain,
Italy, Venice and Florence.
Acknowledgements
Ruth would especially like to thank Fenella for help Chauvet, Musée Picasso; Catherine Decaure,
with research; James, Carole and Loic; and Dylan Musée Carnavalet; Stephanie Delaserve, Musée du
for his advice and support. Vin; Mlle Delfine, Zadig & Voltaire; Sylvester
Engbrox, Musée Rodin; Claire Fine, Disney; Yves
James would like to say a special thank you to Gagneux, Musée Balzac; Stephanie Froger, Musée
Eva, Guillaume and Marjorie for their advice and de l’Armée; Mlle Gallais, Musée de l’Armée; Xavier
companionship in Paris, and to Alice for all her Héraud, Têtu; Juliette Laffon, Musée Bourdelle;
support. Thanks too to Pierre Loechner for his Florence Lannuzel, Musée Rodin; Helene Lefevre,
musical expertise. Musée Guimet; M Louis, Lasserre; Jerome
Manoukian, Musée Rodin; Mme Marie-Odile, Hôtel
The authors would like to thank Eva Loechner for du Globe; Mme Maurer, Musée Moreau; Niko
her thorough and timely work in fact-checking the Melissano, Musée du Louvre; Mme Messina, Site
guide, as well as Martin Dunford, Geoff Howard, de Création Contemporaine; M Monnin, Hôtel
Diana Jarvis, Sharon Martins, Mark Thomas and Pavillon de la Reine; Mme Moreau, Musée Nissim-
Andy Turner at Rough Guides. In Paris, thanks to Caïmondo; Anne de Nesle, Musée Galiera; Mme
Sandrine Adass, Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Noel, Le Limonaire; Fasia Ouagurmouni, Musée
Judaïsme; Catherine Adam, Musée Delacroix; Zadkine; M Papin, La Gare; Véronique Petit-Jean,
Stephanie Barral, Alain Ducasse; Mme Barthélemy, Musée du Louvre; M Philippe, Square Trousseau;
Barthélemy; M Bergeot, Musée de l’Armée; Valery M Pierre, L’Ambroisie; Caroline Pons, Flo group; M
Boucher, Hédiard; Mme Boulinier, Grande Galerie Provensal, Cité de la Musique; M Reix, Le Jules
d’Evolution; Lionel Bordeaux, Mairie de Paris; Verne; Béatrice Ruggieri, L’Hôtel; Ann Samuel,
Philippe Bourgeois; Georges Brunel, Musée Musée Carnavalet; Mme Sigal, Musée d’Art et
Cognacq-Jay; Sandrine Calcaltagirone, Café d’Histoire du Judaïsme; Mathieu Tordjaman, Les
Georges; Brigitte Camus; Madame Canipel, Hôtel Bains; Anne Veron, Musée d’Orsay; Bruno de Ville
Ermitage; Mlle Celine, Rex Club; Jean-Pierre d’Avray, Les Egouts de Paris.
Photo credits
All images © Rough Guides except the following:
p.1 Steet sign on the Avenue Des Champs- p.30 Le Reminet © Le Reminet
Elysées © Royalty-Free/Corbis p.31 Au Bourguignon du Marais © Au
p.12 Fireworks over the Arc de Triomphe on Bourguignon du Marais
Bastille Day © Peter Turnley Corbis p.38 Sally Nyolo in concert at the Café de la
p.13 Lance Armstrong on the Prologue of the Dance © Sebastien Cailleux/Corbis
Tour de France © Tim De Waele/Corbis p.49 Men carrying a banner at Gay Pride
p.13 Foire du Trone © Violetta Grizak/Corbis © Owen Franken/Corbis
Sygma p.61 View from the Arc de Triomphe © Gordon R.
p.13 Nuit Blanche © Elisa Haberer/Corbis Gainer/Corbis
p.16 Grand Arche de la Defence p.79 Aerial view of L’Etoile and the Champs
© kustomphotography -Elysées © Yann Arthus-Bertrand/Corbis
p.18 Musee Marmottan © Robert Holmes/Corbis p.81 Street sign on the Avenue Des Champs-
p.28 Taillevent restaurant © Taillevent restaurant Elysees © kustomphotography
p.30 Chartier restaurant © Helena Smith

220
Index
A SanZSanS
Taverne de Nesle, La
Taverne Henri IV
166
135
73
Café Denon
Café des Hauteurs
Café des Phares
78
134
166
Violon Dingue, Le 127 Café du Luxembourg 134
accommodation Bastille 162 Café Flore 59, 134
maps 190, 192 Bastille map 163 Café Mollien 78
Allée des Cygnes 25, 150 Bastille Day 12 Café Richelieu 78
INDEX
American Church 138 Bateaux Mouches 14, 207 Café Very 84

Arc de Triomphe 61, 79 Batobus 15, 204 Deux Magots, Les 134
Arènes de Lutèce 123 Dôme, Le 146
Beaubourg 99, 101
arrondissements 207 Ebouillanté, L’ 113
Beaubourg map 99 Entrepôt, L’ 151
Atelier Brancusi 101 Beauvais airport 201
Auteuil 175 Eté en Pente Douce, L’ 159
Belleville 172 Fourmi Ailée, La 125
Bibliothèque Nationale de Ladurée 97
France 17, 151 Loir dans la Théière, Le 113
B Bibliothèque Nationale
Richelieu 95
Maison Européenne de la
Photographie Café 113
bike rental 204 Mariage Frères 113
banks 207 Bois de Boulogne 54, 177 Musée Jacquemart
bars (by area): Bois de Vincennes 165 -André 84
The Islands 73 Open Café, L’ 49, 113
Bouquinistes 117
Champs-Elysées Pain Quotidien, Le 113
and Tuileries 85
buses 203
Pause Café 36, 166
Grands Boulevards and Butte Montmartre 153 Petit Fer à
passages 98 Butte-aux-Cailles 150 Cheval, Le 35, 114
Beaubourg and Procope, Le 134
Les Halles 104 Reflet, Le 125
Marais
Quartier Latin
St-Germain
114
127
134
C Sancerre, Le
Select, Le
Site de Création
159
59,147
Southern Paris 151 cafés (by area): Contemporaine 89

Montmartre and Louvre 78 Totem 89
northern Paris 159 Champs-Elysées Canal St-Martin 25, 168
Bastille 166 and Tuileries 84 Carte Musées et
Eastern Paris 174 Trocadéro 89 Monuments 205
bars: Grands Boulevards Catacombs 56, 146
10, Le 134 and passages 96 Champs-Elysées 79
Amnesia Café 49, 113 Beaubourg and Champs-Elysées map 80
Bar des Ferrailleurs 166 Les Halles 103 Chapelle-Ste-Ursule 120
Bar du Relais, Le 159 Marais 113 Charles de Gaulle
Central, Le 114 Quartier Latin 124
airport 201
Chez Georges 135 St-Germain 134
Montparnasse 146
Château de Versailles 180
Dépanneur, Le 159
Etages St-Germain, Les 135 Southern Paris 151 Château de Vincennes 165
Flèche d’Or, La 174 Montmartre 159 Chinatown 150
Folie en Tête, La 37, 151 Bastille 166 cinemas 207
Fourmi Café, La 159 Eastern Paris 173 Cité de l’Architecture
Fumoir, Le 98 cafés: et du Patrimoine 86
Georges 60, 103 A Priori Thé 96 Cité des Enfants 170
Impala Lounge 85 Amnésia Café 49, 113 Cité des Sciences et de
Juveniles 96 Apparemment l’Industrie 17, 170
Lizard Lounge, The 114 Café, L’ 35, 113 clubs (by area):
Lou Pascalou 174 Bar du Marché 34, 134 Grands Boulevards
Mabillon 134 Café Beaubourg 103 and passages 98
Merle Moqueur, Le 151 Café Charbon 35, 173 Beaubourg and
Mixer, Le 48, 114 Café de l’Industrie 34, 166 Les Halles 104
Nirvana 85 Café de l’Institut du Southern Paris 152
Pause Café 36, 166 Monde Arabe 125 Montmartre and
Petit Fer à Café de la Comédie 96 northern Paris 161
Cheval, Le 35, 114 Café de la Mairie 134 Bastille 167
Petit Marcel, Le 104 Café de la Mosquée 35, 124 Eastern Paris 174
Piano Vache, Le 127 Café de la Musique 173 clubs:
Pipos, Les 127 Café de la Nouvelle Batofar 36, 152
Rubis, Le 98 Mairie 125 Chapelle des Lombards 167

221
Elysée Montmartre 161
Fabrique, La
Folies Pigalle
167
161
H Hôtel Esmeralda
Hôtel Gilden-Magenta 197
Hôtel Henri IV
194
44, 189
Le Pulp 48, 98 Hôtel Istria 195
Les Bains 37, 104 hammams 53, 122 Hôtel Keppler 192
Nouveau Casino 174 health 208 Hôtel Lancaster 192
Rex Club 37, 98 hostels: Hôtel Langlou/des
Conciergerie 63, 70 BVJ Paris Quartier Latin 197 Croisés 196
Crypte archéologique 57, 71 Centre International de Hôtel le Bouquet de
cycling 204 Paris/Louvre 197 Montmartre 196
Fauconnier, Le 197
INDEX
Hôtel le Bristol 189
Fourcy, Le 197 Hôtel le Pavillon 195
Jules Ferry 197
D Maubuisson
Woodstock Hostel
197
197
Hôtel Marignan
Hôtel Méridional
Hôtel Pavillon de la
194
196
Young and Happy Hostel 197 Reine 193

Défense, La 178 Hôtel de Sully 111 Hôtel Port-Royal 194
Diana, Princess 89 Hôtel de Ville 102 Hôtel Printemps 195
disabled travellers 207 Hôtel Lauzun 72 Hôtel Récamier 195
Disneyland Paris 50, 184 Hôtel Soubise 108 Hôtel Saint Dominique 195
Dôme, Eglise du 139 hotels (by area): Hôtel St-Honoré 193
The Islands 189 Hôtel Tolbiac 195
Champs-Elysées and Hôtel Vivienne 193
E Tuileries
Grands Boulevards
and passages
189
193
Relais du Louvre
Relais Saint-Sulpice
193
195
Résidence Les Gobelins 196
Eastern Paris map 169 Beaubourg and Style Hôtel 196
les Halles 193 Timhotel Montmartre 196
Egouts, Les 138
Eiffel Tower 10, 61, 136 Marais 193 Huchette quarter 116
Eiffel Tower area map 137 Quartier Latin 194
St-Germain 194
embassies and
consulates
Eurostar
207
202
Eiffel Tower area
Montparnasse
Southern Paris
195
195
195
I
Excursions, map 180 Montmartre and northern Ile de la Cité 67
Paris 196 Ile St-Louis 67
Bastille 196
F Eastern Paris
hotels:
Familia Hôtel
196
194
information
Institut du Monde
Arabe
205
17, 117
festivals 206 Grand Hôtel du Loiret 193 Internet access 208
Fondation Cartier 16, 146 Grand Hôtel Jeanne Invalides, Les 138
Fontaine des Innocents 103 d’Arc 193 Islands map 68
Grand Hôtel Malher 193
Hôtel, L’ 44, 194
G Hôtel Bastille Speria

Hôtel Beaumarchais
Hôtel Bonséjour
196
196
196
J
Hôtel Brighton 192 Jardin Atlantique 24, 142
Galerie Colbert 94 Hôtel Caron de
Galerie Véro-Dodat 94 Jardin
Beaumarchais 44, 193 d’Acclimatation 50, 178
Galerie Vivienne 94 Hôtel Central Marais 193
Gare du Nord 202 Jardin des Plantes 122
Hôtel Chopin 44, 193
Gare Routière 202 Jardin des
Hôtel Costes 192
Gares SNCF 202 Tuileries 55, 79, 82
Hôtel d’Artois 189
gay and lesbian Hôtel de l’Angleterre 194 Jardin du
travellers 48, 208 Hôtel de la Sorbonne 194 Luxembourg 51, 55, 128
Gay Pride 49, 206 Hôtel de Nesle 195 Jardin du Palais
Grand Palais 81 Hôtel des Grandes Royal 25, 94
Grande Arche de la Ecoles 194 Jeu de Paume 83
Défense 16, 179 Hôtel des Voyageurs 195 Jewish quarter 53, 110
Hôtel du Champ-de-
Grande Galerie de
Mars 195
l’Evolution 122
Grands Boulevards
Grands Boulevards
90
Hôtel du Globe 44, 194
Hôtel du Jeu de Paume 189
Hôtel du Palais Bourbon 195
K
map 90 Hôtel du Septième Art 194 Kilometre zéro 71
Hôtel Ermitage 44, 196

222
L Mission du Patrimoine
Photographique
Musée Bourdelle 23, 144
111
Lapin Agile, Le 161
Madeleine, église de la 98
Maison des Cultures du
Musée Monde 135
Lady with the Unicorn 119 Carnavalet 20, 59, 109 New Morning 39, 161
language 211 Musée Cognacq Opéra Bastille 167
basics 211 -Jay 21, 109 Opéra Garnier 38, 98
menu reader 213 Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Sainte-Chapelle 73
Latin Quarter 116 Judaïsme 20, 105 Sunset & Le Sunside, Le 104
Les Halles 99, 102 Musée d’Art Moderne de la Théâtre des
Les Halles map 99
INDEX
Ville de Paris 21, 88 Champs-Elysées 39, 85

listings magazines 205 Musée d’Orsay 19, 132
Louvre 11, 17, 18, 74 Musée de l’Armée 139
Louvre map 74 Musée de l’Erotisme 158
Luxembourg Gardens 128 Musée de l’Homme
Musée de la Marine
Musée de la Mode et du
86
87 N
M Costume
Musée de la Musique 170
Musée de la Vie
47, 87
Napoleon’s tomb
night buses
27, 139
203
Romantique 158 Northern Paris 153
Madeleine 93 Musée de Montmartre 156 Northern Paris map 154
maps 205 Musée Delacroix 23, 129 Notre-Dame 11, 70
Marais 105 Musée des Plans-Reliefs 139 Nuit Blanche 13, 206
markets 43, 149, 157 Musée du Luxembourg 129
Marais map 106 Musée du
Mémorial de la
Déportation
Ménagerie
72
123
Montparnasse
Musée Grévin
Musée Guimet
58, 144
91
21, 87
O
Ménilmontant 173 Musée Jacquemart Opéra Bastille 162
métro 203 -André 22, 82
Opéra Garnier 93
Mobilis passes 203 Musée Maillol 132
Musée Marmottan 18, 177
Orly airport 201
money 208
Montagne Ste Musée Moreau 23, 159
Musée National d’Art Moderne
-Geneviève
Montmartre
Montmartre map
120
59, 153
154
19, 100
Musée National des Arts et
Traditions Populaires 178
P
Montmartre Musée National du Moyen Palais de Chaillot 86
cemetery 28, 157 Age 62, 118 Palais de la Découverte 81
Montmartre vineyard 156 Musée Picasso 19, 108 Palais de Tokyo 8
Montparnasse 142 Musée Rodin 22, 140 Palais Royal 25, 94
Montparnasse Musée Zadkine 144 Panthéon 27, 120
cemetery 26, 145 Site de Création Parc André-Citroën 55, 148
Montparnasse map 143 Contemporaine 19, 88
Parc de Bagatelle 178
Moulin de la Galette 155 Union Centrale des Arts
Parc de Belleville 61, 173
Moulin Rouge 158 Décoratifs 77
Parc de la Villette 51, 168
museum passes 205 music, live (by area):
The Islands 73 Parc des Buttes
museums and galleries:
Champs-Elysées -Chaumont 172
Atelier Brancusi 101
Cité de l’Architecture et du and Tuileries 85 Parc Floral 165
Patrimoine 86 Grands Boulevards Parc Montsouris 150
Cité des Enfants 170 and passages 98 Paris Mosque 122
Cité des Sciences et de Beaubourg and Paris Plage 12, 206
l’Industrie 170 Les Halles 104 Paris Visite cards 203
Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Marais 115 Paris-Story 93
Contemporain 144 Quartier Latin 127 passage des Panoramas 94
Fondation Henri Cartier- St-Germain 135 passage du Grand-Cerf 94
Bresson 146 Montmartre and passage Jouffroy 95
Grande Galerie de l’Evolotuion northern Paris 161
passage Verdeau 95
122 Bastille 167
passages 42, 90, 95
Institut du Monde music, live:
Arabe 117 7 Lézards, Les 115 passages map 90
Louvre 11, 18, 74 Au Limonaire 39, 98 Père-Lachaise
Maison de Balzac 23, 177 Café de la Danse 38, 167 cemetery 26, 171
Maison de Victor Hugo 111 Caveau de la Huchette 127 Petit Palais 81
Maison Européenne de la Divan du Monde, Le 161 Pigalle 158
Photographie 112 Duc des Lombards, Le 104 place d’Aligre market 164

223
place Dauphine 25, 68 Au Bourguignon Table d’Anvers, La 160
place de l’Alma 89 du Marais 31, 114 Taillevent 28, 85
place de la Bastille 162 Au Buisson Ardent 126 Tashi Delek 127
place de la Concorde 82 Au Pavillon Puebla 174 Temps des Cerises, Le 152
place de la Contrescarpe 121 Au Pied du Cochon 103 Thoumieux 141
Au Vieux Molière 104 Tillsit, Le 85
place de Passy 175
Au Virage Lepic 160 Tour de Montlhéry 103
place des Abbesses 155 Tricotin 152
Auberge de Jarente 114
place des Vosges 54, 111 Avant Goût, L’ 31, 151 Vaudeville, Le 33, 97
place du Tertre 155 Bambou, Le 151 Waly Fay 53, 174
place Emile-Goudeau 155
INDEX
Bistrot du Peintre, Le 167 Yvan 85
place St-Michel 116 Blue Elephant 167 Zéphyr, Le 174
place Vendôme 93 Bofinger 32, 167 Roissy-Charles de
Pompidou Centre 11, 19, 99 Brasserie Balzar 125 Gaulle airport 201
Pont Alexandre III 15, 136 Brasserie de l’Ile St-Louis 73 Rue Cler 138
Pont des Arts 15, 128 Byblos Café 179 rue de Faubourg
Pont Neuf 15, 68 Café du Commerce, Le 152 St-Antoine 164
post offices 208 Café du Marché 141 rue de Lappe 163
Promenade Plantée 24, 164 Chartier 30, 97 rue des Rosiers 110
Chez Denise 103
public holidays 206 rue Mouffetard 121
Chez Germaine 141
Puces de St-Ouen 43, 157 rue St-Honoré 94
Chez Gladines 152
Puces de Vanves 43, 149 Chez Omar 115
Chez Paul 167
Q
Chez Prune
Consigne, La
Coude Fou, Le
174
160
114
S
Coupole, La 33, 147 Sacré-Cœur 10, 60, 155
Quartier Latin 116 Degrés de Notre Sainte
Quartier Latin map 118 Dame, Les 126 -Chapelle 11, 63, 68, 73
Ecurie, L’ 126 Sewers 57, 138
Flo 33, 161 shops (by area):
R Fontaines, Les
Foujita
Gare, La
126
97
179
The Islands
Champs-Elysées
and Tuileries
72
83
Georges 60, 103 Grands Boulevards
racism 208
Grand Café and passages 96
Railway stations 202 Capucinesm Le 97 Beaubourg and
RATP 202 Grand Colbert, Le 97 Les Halles 103
restaurants (by area): Grenier de Notre Marais 112
The Islands 73 Dame, Le 126 Quartier Latin 123
Champs-Elysées Homme Tranquille, L’ 160 St-Germain 133
and Tuileries 84–85 Jacques Cagna 135 Bastille 166
Grands Boulevards Jo Goldenberg’s 115 Eastern Paris 173
and passages 97 Jules Verne 29, 141 Western Paris 179
Beaubourg and Julien 161 shops:
Les Halles 103 Lasserre 29, 84 Abbey Bookshop 123
Marais 114 Lipp 32, 135 Agnès B 103
Quartier Latin 125 Natacha 147 Archives de la Presse 112
St-Germain 135 Nos Ancêtres les Gaulois 73 Au Bon Marché 41, 133
Eiffel Tower area 141 P’tit Troquet, Le 141 Bain – Plus Enfants 112
Montparnasse 147 Perraudin 126 Baron Rouge, Le 166
Southern Paris 151 Petit Prince, Le 126 Barthélemy 41, 133
Montmartre and Petit St-Benoît, Le 135 Berthillon 72
northern Paris 160 Petite Légume, La 126 Boîte à Musique
Bastille 167 Piccolo Teatro 115 Anna Jolivet 96
Eastern Paris 174 Pitchi-Poï 31, 115 Cécile et Jeanne 166
Western Paris 179 Polidor 135 Colette 96
restaurants: Pooja 161 Comptoir des Ecritures 96
A la Petite Chaise 135 Quatre et Une Crocodisc 123
A la Pomponette 31, 160 Saveurs, Les 127 CSAO 112
Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Relais de l’Entrecôte, Le 85 Debauve & Gallais 41, 133
Athénée 29, 84 Relais de l’Ile, Le 73 Epicerie, L’ 72
Ambroisie, L’ 28, 114 Relais Gascon, Le 160 Fauchon 41, 96
Appart’, L’ 84 Reminet, Le 30, 127 FNAC Musique 166
Astier 174 Robe et le Palais, La 103 Galeries Lafayette 96
Au Babylone 141 Square Trousseau, Ganachaud 173
Au Bistro de la Sorbonne125 Le 33, 167 Gibert Jeune 123

224
Guerlain 83 Southern Paris 148
Hédiard
Inès de la Fressange
40, 96
83
Southern Paris map
Sorbonne
148
63, 120
U
Isabel Marant 47, 166 Square du Vert-Galant 68
Les Caves Taillevent 83 Union Centrale des Arts
stamps 208 Décoratifs 77
Librairie Culture 112 St-Denis 43, 182
Librairie Gourmande 124
St-Etienne-du-Mont 62, 121
Librairie Ulysse 72
St-Eustache 102
Maria Luisa
Mariage Frères
83
40, 112 St-Germain, map
St-Germain-des-Prés 129
130 V
INDEX
Mouton à Cinq
Pattes, Le 47, 133 St-Julien-le-Pauvre 117 Versailles, Château de 180
Occaserie, L’ 179 St-Paul-St-Gervais 111 Viaduc des Arts 42, 165
Papier Plus 112 St-Pierre-de-Montmartre 155 Villa La Roche 175
Paris Jazz Corner 124 St-Séverin 116 Vincennes, Bois de 165
Pascal le Glacier 179 St-Sulpice 129
Pâtisserie Stohrer 96
Poilâne 133
Printemps
Pylônes
Rendez-Vous de
96
72 T W
la Nature 124 Western Paris 175
taxis 204 Western Paris map 176
Sacha Finkelsztajn 112
Samaritaine, La 96
telephones 208
Shakespeare & Co 58, 124 tipping 208
Stella Cadente 173 Tour Montparnasse 61, 142
Ursule Beaugeste 173 tourist offices 205
Village Voice 133 Trocadéro, map 87
Zadig & Voltaire 47, 96 Tuileries 55, 79, 82
Site de Création Tuileries map 80
Contemporaine 19, 88

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3 4 La Chapelle 7 5
Louis-Michel & St-Denis-Université 13 Blanche Ourcq Porte de
Stalingrad
1 Place de Clichy
Pigalle Anvers Barbès- Pantin
Pte de Champerret Rome Rochechouart Laumière
RER Wagram
Mairie des Lilas

La Défense
Esplanade
de La
A Péreire Liège
Malesherbes GARE DU Buttes-
Défense Pont de
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7B Jaurès
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Chaumont Danube PRÉ-ST-GERVAIS
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ine
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Se Poissonnière Château Fabien
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r Ternes Havre- Cadet
ve Caumartin Pyrénées Télégraphe
Ri Porte
11
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Miromesnil Grands Boulevards Fêtes
KEY du-Roule Bonsergent Couronnes
CHARLES-DE-GAULLE 6 George Auber Opéra Richelieu- Château
Interchange stations ÉTOILE d'Eau St-Fargeau
MADELEINE Drouot Goncourt
PORTE DAUPHINE 14 Pelleport
Gallieni
Bourse Bonne République
6 Franklin D.-
Line terminus & number 14 Kleber Roosevelt
Quatre Nouvelle Strasbourg-
Champs- Septembre Ménilmontant
Victor- Sentier St-Denis Parmentier GAMBETTA
4 Line number Avenue Foch Hugo Elysées- Concorde
Réaumur-Sébastopol Temple 3B
Clemenceau St-Maur
3
Pointer indicates terminus Boissière
Rue de Pyramides
Trocadéro Tuileries Etienne-Marcel
la Pompe Arts & Oberkampf Père-
RER station Alma-Marceau Métiers Lachaise
Iéna CHÂTELET- Philippe-Auguste
Palais Royal- LES HALLES Filles du
Montreuil
Mairie de
Musée du Louvre Les Halles St-Ambroise
Avenue Henri-Martin Rambuteau Calvaire
La Passy Louvre-Rivoli Alexandre-Dumas
Muette Pont de Invalides Assemblée Hôtel de Voltaire
l'Alma Nationale St-Sébastien-
Pont- 11 Ville Froissart Richard-
La Tour- Musée Charonne
d'Orsay Neuf Lenoir Avron
Boulainvilliers Champ- Maubourg Varenne Châtelet Porte de
Chemin- Montreuil
de-Mars Vert Boulets-
9
Ranelagh Bir-Hakeim Tour Eiffel Solférino St-Germain- Bréguet-Sabin
Bologne Pont de St-Cloud
École- St-Paul Montreuil Maraîchers

des-Prés Pont
Militaire Cité Mairie Bastille
Jasmin Rue du Ledru-Rollin
Kennedy- St-Francois- Sèvres- 2
Radio-France Dupleix Baa Babylone Odéon Buzenval
Xavier St-Michel NATION Pte de
Michel-Ange- Sully Faidherbe- 6 Vincennes
Auteuil Eglise d'Auteuil Morland Chaligny
Javel La Motte-Picquet Ségur St- Mabillon
Vaneau
1
Pte d'Auteuil Grenelle Sulpice Cluny La Sorbonne
Cambronne Duroc St- St-Michel/ Reuilly-
Rennes Picpus RER
Château de Vincennes
Charles- Av. Placide Notre-Dame Diderot
Mirabeau Michels Emile Zola Commerce Sèvres- N. D. des Maubert Mutualité Quai de A
Lecourbe Champp la Rapée Montgallet
Chardon-Lagache Cardinal GARE Bel-Air
Michel-Ange- Félix-Faure Falguière MONTPARNASSE B Lemoine Jussieu
ER
DE LYON Daumesnil
10 Boulogne- Molitor Pasteur BIENVENÜE
J. Jaurès Boucicaut
R Luxembourg
Vavin Place 10
i ne
Exelmans Edgar-Quinet Michel Bizot
RE
Volontaires Monge GARE
Bd Victor Port-Royal Dugommier
Raspail D'AUSTERLITZ
Se
RC
Lourmel Gaîté Censier-Daubenton Bercy
Pte de St-Cloud
RER C
RE
er
Vaugirard DENFERT- St-Marcel

8 Cour
St-Emilion R
Quai de
Riv
ROCHEREAU Campo-
BALARD
Convention Pernéty Les Gobelins
Formio
la Gare D Porte Dorée
Marcel-Sembat St- Chevaleret
Issy Plaisance Mouton-
Ri
Pte de Versailles Jacques Glacière Nationale Pte de
ve
Val de Seine Duvernet Corvisart 5 Bibliothèque Charenton
PLACE Francois 14
rS
D'ITALIE Liberté
ei
Billancourt Corentin-Celton Mitterand
4
ne
9 12 13 7 8
Porte
Pont de Sèvres Mairie d'Issy Chatillon-Montrouge d’Orléans Villejuif-Louis Aragon Mairie D’ivry Créteil-Préfecture
ISBN 1-84353-317-0

Rough Guide Directions PARIS

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Rough Guide Directions PARIS

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Paris

WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Ruth Blackmore and

NEW YORK • LONDON • DELHI

Tips for reading this e-book

A trip to Paris, famous as the most romantic of

Dame and the royal palace

art galleries and museums

ancient cemeteries. boulevards and back-alleys,

At the heart of the ancient

concealing a matchless collection

and great cafés make Montmartre

dent, arty and ethnic mix ensures

Turn up on Bastille Day,

The Tour de France

vistas, while river trips are

Pont des Arts

palace, were hugely

Institut du Monde Arabe

Cité des Sciences

Musée National d’Art

Musée d’Art Moderne de la

Parisian scenes like

them, these hidden nooks

Jardin du Palais Royal

Allée des Cygnes

Alain Ducasse at the Plaza

choice is so good. 쑺 P.97 쑺 THE GRANDS BOULEVARDS 쑽

While the city is

Le Petit Fer à Cheval

Théâtre des Champs-Elysées

Debauve & Gallais

town houses, which often

Hôtel Ermitage Hôtel Caron de

Zadig & Voltaire Le Mouton à Cinq Pattes

(see p.138). In addition, 쑺 P.184 쑺 EXCURSIONS 쒀

nearly every park, big or

Jardin du Luxembourg boats

Hammam at the Paris

Jardin des Tuileries

PLACES The Islands

ÎLE DE LA CITÉ É NEUF QUAI DE L

QUAI Préfecture Archéol-

beautiful seventeenth-century Henri is commemorated with

QUAI DES CÉL

PLACES The Islands

RUE Pylones L’Epicerie

10am–5pm. e6.10, combined admis- reds of the stained glass dapple

Passion of Christ (east end) and Cathédrale de Notre-Dame

prisoners were tortured and

PLACES The Islands

thorough – some would say darkness of the nave and the

and houses that once

ground, the stark and moving

PLACES The Islands

LIVE JAZZ ON THE ILE ST-LOUIS

the largest art collection on earth, thanks to Napoleon’s

PLACES The Louvre

Visiting the Louvre

are superbly idiosyncratic.When Louvre’s impressive collection of

PLACES The Louvre

VIEW FROM INSIDE THE PYRAMIDE

PLACES The Champs-Elysées and Tuileries