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MEMOIRS OF EUGENE H. LOVELL, SR.

(Portions of this document which appear in italics represent an addendum


provided by the author after the original document was distributed to his
children.)

I, Eugene Hendrix Lovell am the fourth son of Nashville District, with Payten A. Sowell as
William Henry Lovell and the second son of Presiding Elder. His brother, Isaac Wilson,
Fannie Ellen Fisher. My father, W. H. Lovell was also a Methodist preacher. He was
was born near Lynnville, Tenn. in Giles County traveling the Nashville Circuit at the outbreak
on Jan. 7, 1858 and died near Fayetteville, of the Civil War, and died in a Camp in the
Tenn. on Nov. 18, 1924. He had married Lena Confederate Army. Their mother, my
Storey and there were two sons by this grandmother, was a deeply spiritual woman,
marriage. My mother, Nellie Fisher, was born and the salutary influence of her life on him
near Lewisburg in Marshall County Dec. 20, was acknowledged by him. Isaac Wilson, the
1874 and died Oct. 21, 1957. Mother was preacher brother, was the oldest of the several
married to John L. Griggs of Williamson brothers. He had come into the Tennessee
County. He died Oct. 24, 1901, and then Conference on trial at the 1861 Annual
mother married my father. Mother had two
children by her first marriage, but one died in Conference, held at Athens, Alabama Oct. 2- 8
infancy. Mother and Dad had 7 children, of with Bishop John Early presiding. He was
whom I was the second. appointed to Swan Creek and Beaver Dam in
the Centerville District, along with William P.
My father, William Henry Campbell Lovell, Warren who was the Senior pastor, we
was the son of James and Mary Hannah Lovell. presume. He became a chaplain in the
He was the tenth child of the eleven. His Confederate Army, and died as recorded above
father, James Wesley, was born on October 11, in a Mississippi army camp March 14, 1863. So
1811, and died on July 22, 1859. His mother, far as we know, Dad, Isaac Wilson, and
Mary Hannah, was born November 20, 1820, Thomas Riley, another brother, were the only
and died on March 3, 1882. So you can see ones to return to Tennessee. Isaac Wilson did
that his father died while he was quite young. not live until the end of war, hence did not go
At the close of the Civil War, his mother Mary with the family to Texas. There were seven
Hannah, moved to Texas from Giles County, as brothers, and 4 sisters. It is thought that our
did a great many others of that county. She grandfather Lovell, James Wesley, came from
took with her this large family, and bought Kentucky or Illinois. He was buried at the
land. Dad worked on the farm until he was 21 family cemetery at Yoakley, Tennessee, between
years old. When but a youth, he was converted, Columbia and Pulaski. Dad served 9 charges
and some years later was licensed to preach. before I was born, and 12 others after my birth.
Seeking a place for continuing his education,
he came back to Tennessee and entered He was always a circuit rider. In looking at the
Vanderbilt (it had another name and had not Conference records, I notice that his salary at
become Vanderbilt then), but later seeing the White House started at $300, and increased to
need of more foundation work, entered Webb $320 his last year there. He was pastor there 4
School at Bell Buckle, where he finished the years, and White House was a Mission charge.
course. We know nothing of where our Grandmother
Lovell originated, or even her maiden name.
Dad was a Methodist preacher, having joined We hope that it may be possible to discover
the Tennessee Conference in 1888 at the some facts about both families some day. We
conference held in Fayetteville Oct. 17- 22, with do know that our grandfather Lovell died of
Bishop J. C. Keener presiding. His first T.B. And we do know that our grandmother
appointment was Alex Green Circuit in the East was of the Wilcoxson family. She died of
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Typhoid fever. "Early, go fetch the eggs." We played in the
creek back of the parsonage. In those days
One can find the history of our mother's family there was malaria, and my older brother became
in the Fisher Scrapbook written by Bill Jones. sick with it during the summer.
Her family was a well- known family of Bedford
County. I mentioned the fact that Dad and You will notice that I passed over the periods
Mother were married before, and their from 1905 to 1913, for I have little memory of
marriage took place after the death of first wife events during those early days of my life. We
and first husband. Mother had two children by had now lived at White House, in Robertson
her first marriage, lost the little boy in infancy. County, at Pleasant View in Montgomery
Mildred Griggs was the survivor, and lived County, where Uncle Marsh was born, then at
until May 2, 1968. She had married Clarence Bethlehem, in Williamson County, and near
Jones of Burwood. He survived Sis only a few Nashville- -just between Nashville and
months. They had an only son, Thomas, who Franklin. Also I have little memory of Santa
teaches at Columbia Military. Joe and Jim Fe, where I believe I first attended grammar
were the sons that Dad had by his first school, and there to Nolensville, where we lived
marriage. By the second marriage of the two for two years, 1911- 1913.
(Dad and Mother) there were 6 more, 5 boys
and 1 girl-- John, 'Gene, Marsh, Gil, Margaret, Memory does clear a bit when we moved to
and Marvin. Quite a family, but that was Dellrose in 1913. We were there a couple of
customary in those days. years, and some of the memories of those days
were again stirred when we went there to serve
My mother's uncle was another Methodist as pastor during 1933-35. Names of families,
preacher. This meant that we children grew up places where they lived, and other matters
in a Christian home, where many of the luxuries renewed themselves in our memory.
that are enjoyed today were missing, but we had Throughout the years, even though my
a happy childhood in spite of all this. Dad had pastorates in the Tennessee Conference were
already served several charges when I was born few in number, I served two places where Dad
on October 19, 1905. I was born at White had served while I was a boy. Dellrose and
House, Tenn., in Robertson County. I think that Cumberland City were these places. We were
Dad built the parsonage in which I was born, assigned the Dellrose and Bee Springs Circuit
but have no verification of this. Of course, I when we came home from Congo in 1933,
was too young to remember anything which during the Depression. Life was pretty hard,
took place there or at the next few places that for there was little money in the country, but
we lived. My brother, Marshall, was born at somehow we made out, and even managed to
Pleasant View, Tenn. two years later. I accumulate a few personal belongings. We
remember a story told of my childhood, of how started out in the ministry at Cumberland City,
my father had to come down from the pulpit and were we green at the work?! Cumberland
and rescue me after I had gotten my head City was on the railroad, but Dover, the county
between the railings of the altar of the church. I seat was not. So the two towns were connected
am not sure where this happened. by means of a mail boat which made the
journey down the Cumberland River to carry
It was the custom of my parents to put their mail and passengers. This was before the days
children to sleep inside the altar railing if there of good roads.
was a night service. My first dim recollections
start at Santa Fe. We were there in 1910-1911 Dad drove a horse called "Telephone" from his
and I started to school at Santa Fe. The Cook height, and later secured "Molly" with whom
family were among those that are remembered. we grew up. My memory of things had
We played with a neighbor boy named Early, deepened at Nolensville in 1911-1913. I recall
and I can still hear his mother calling to him, that we had neighbors who were socially a
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notch or two above us. They even had a Lazy this time, and they used to pull cars and other
Susan table, and the lady of the home played equipment by on the road that ran in front of the
the organ at the church, I believe. My brother parsonage.
Jim had the job of pumping this pipe organ When we moved to Dellrose for 1913-1914, we
during the summer vacation, and usually came found it a rural community about twenty miles
home wet with perspiration. This family went from Fayetteville. Even when Mildred and I
to Florida for the winter, and the boy shared a lived there some twenty years later, things had
few things that he brought back with him. It not changed much. The Mansfield family was
seems that I remember the first coconut from one of the older families as was the Sherrill and
those days. the George family. Dad drove through the
country in the buggy when he moved, and we
I remember stealing a pencil box at school one led the cow behind. We stayed at the Mansfield
day, and the pangs of conscience I suffered as a home, and I believe Dad returned for the rest of
result until I had to tell my parents and return it the family. Anyhow the first day of school was
with an apology. Our grandmother on mother's a disaster for me, for I was so timid that I ran
side came to live with us while we were there, away from the school over to the parsonage and
and she died at the parsonage. She used to hid in the utility shed for the day. When the
regale us with stories of the Civil War until we family all arrived I was soon happy in school.
were fearful of going to bed. This usually
occurred when she baby-sat with us on Sunday We hunted all sorts of nuts in the woods above
nights. the parsonage. Jim was at Massey School in
Pulaski, and on one occasion when coming
Dad always had a good garden, and so taught us home, he wasn't sure of the road, so decided to
to help out in this work after school. We were let Molly find it, and she came directly home.
taught many things by our parents, for it was The railroad was being constructed through
difficult for them to stretch what little money Dellrose, and the town was divided between
came in to feed and clothe so many children. I New Town and Old Town. We lived in Old
believe that my sister, Margaret, was born at Town. Mother usually had extra milk and
Nolensville. We learned very early how to cut butter for sale, so we went to the cars to sell it.
wood for the kitchen stove and for the I believe that the price was about ten cents per
fireplaces, for that was how we heated the gallon. There were no conveniences at the
parsonages in which we lived. Later we had parsonages in those days, and so we had no
grates and burned coal. We learned how to care bathrooms or electricity. It was the custom to
for the cow, Molly, and any other livestock we get out the wash tub before the kitchen stove on
might have as a calf, colt, or pigs. Dad had to Saturday nights and bathe. Of course water had
have water that was not limestone water, so we to be heated on the stove for this purpose.
carried his drinking water from an artesian well
from the Waller home. Somehow I seem to When we moved to Cumberland City in
remember that there was a suicide in the family 1914-1915, we attended the W. T. Thomas
during the time we were there, and of course Academy. It later became the public school.
this was a matter of fear to us at that time. It We often were able to buy fresh fish here, and
seemed a long way to carry a heavy bucket of Dad secured the garden of a neighbor in
water, but it really wasn't too far. addition to our own for raising vegetables. It
had Bermuda grass in it, and what a time we
Dad was often invited to the homes of people had trying to get rid of it. We threw it into the
on the circuit, and occasionally we joined him, alley and it even took root there in the hard
for Sunday dinner. Mother used to have to ground. Many years later we lived at Dover,
question him about where he had eaten, for she and the grass on the yard came from the
found that he would forget and bring home the Bermuda that we had thrown into the alley,
dinner napkin. The railway was being built at which had been collected from the garden.
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Dad's fellow pastor carried it there and set it Preparatory School was one of the many
out. This was my first charge in the conference, Preparatory Schools in the state of Tennessee,
and where we began our married life. Dad also and a very good one. There were both
rented a field down in the creek bottom a little boarding students and those who walked in
way out from Cumberland City so that we each day. We were less than four miles away,
could have corn, beans, and other things. and walked back and forth most days.
Sometimes, if the weather was too bad, Dad
I drank some water from the creek and soon took us in the buggy. We always rushed home
developed a case of Typhoid Fever. I first after school hours, for there was much to be
noticed it by the chills I had on the hot summer done, like cutting wood, helping in the garden
morning, for I was so cold I usually wound up in the growing season, and other kinds of work.
behind the kitchen stove. The rest of the family We were kept busy. Mother canned a great
were vaccinated, and so escaped it. I was a sick many fruits and vegetables, and we raised most
boy all that summer. Sometimes I had to be of our food, for there was too little money to
bathed in ice water, and of course was denied buy much except the necessary staples. "Buck"
any solid food. This was before the day of Peoples was head of the school, and a real fine
miracle drugs, and the family must have Latin teacher. Sometimes we had to stay after
worried a lot over me that summer. I was school to make up the Latin we were not able to
starved for something to eat and remembered recite in class.
that I had thrown part of a biscuit in the grate
weeks earlier, and so crawled over to get it. I think I was put in school too early at
That dry biscuit was real feast. I don't suppose Peoples-Tucker so had to return to Grammar
that it harmed me much, but it was enough to School another year or so. Miss Lora
kill me. I had been fed soup, raw eggs, orange McClelland must have been an excellent
juice, and other liquids until I had to have teacher, for she introduced me to art and music.
something solid. My hair all came out, and I I enjoyed these years. When I returned to the
was a scrawny creature when fall came. I could P.T., "Buck" Peoples really bore down hard on
not so much as pick up a few pieces of wood Latin, and gave me an excellent foundation in
without fever returning, but gradually it left and that subject, which I am still using. When one
I can attribute most of my health today from could not recite properly, he was called to go
that summer of fever. The bottles emptied of down to the Raspberry patch and recite. One
medicines as Castor Oil and other things piled was kept after school in those days too.
up, until it was unbelievable. Chataqua came into our lives while there.
World War I was being fought, and we saw
While at Cumberland City, mother asked me to patriotic marches, special services and the first
take some empty jars to the smoke house, and flying machine, as it was called. How thrilled
in some way one hit against another and I were we on Armistice Day which was
received a very bad cut on the hand. I have the celebrated twice. They were a bit previous with
livid scar to this day on my right hand. The the announcement.
Stackers, the Bayers, the Billahans, the
Daughterys, the Thomases, and Bradfords were We usually attended First Church on Sunday
friends who welcomed us back there when I mornings, and then went to Woodland Street in
started my ministry years later. South Springfield for the afternoon service.
When Faxon Small was pastor there as a
We moved to Springfield from Cumberland student, we rang the church bell all the time it
City in 1915 and stayed until 1919--the longest took him to walk from the crossroads, and did
sojourn that we remember. We lived on the he light into us. Mrs. Faxon Small is now here
edge of town, and Dad was Pastor of the Red at McKendree Manor. We knew Faxon's sister,
River Circuit. We attended Peoples-Tucker Mrs. Jim Majors. Jim and she taught school
Preparatory School. Peoples- Tucker for many years and now live at Clarksville.
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John, our older brother-- two years older than mostly from wells or cisterns.
I, was with the family until we moved to Sumner
Circuit, I believe in 1920. I think that he was We were an outdoor family, especially we
sent to Massey at that time. Massey was children, for there was never much room in the
another Preparatory School and used military house to play. Mother helped us with our
training. It was located at Pulaski. Our lessons, and the boost she gave me on Latin
brother, Jim, had graduated from there. remains with me until this day. While at
Springfield, Dad bought a surrey, or
Dad was rather puritanical in his discipline of fringed-topped two-seated buggy for the family.
us, and we all had the rod laid on sometimes. We enjoyed it a lot. We had friends that we had
One day I ran away when he called me in for known somewhere else settle in Springfield, the
my share of punishment. He went on to town, H. T. Thomas family. He soon bought a model
and when he had returned, he asked me to come T Ford, and we enjoyed many rides with him,
forward, and I started off across the field. He although he was a rather wild driver and often
finally caught me as I was getting over the scared the wits out of one, going around the
fence, and was it "hot and heavy" for me. John, corners on two wheels and other wild capers. I
my older brother rebelled, and this hurt dad a suppose that this was one of the first cars in
lot. He and Dad just didn't see eye to eye after which we rode. Swimming, hanging on wild
that. He didn't want to be disciplined any grape vines, hiking, and attending "protracted
longer. I worked on the Davis farm a summer meetings" were a lot of fun too. We had to
or so, and also on the Dowell farm next door, to work, but there was time for fun too.
us, with a black family who lived there. Sol
and Frankie were their names. Once after Sol Mother used to make fried fruit pies for us to
had taken a drink of water with wiggle-tails, or carry to school, and how we enjoyed them. She
mosquito larvae in it, he cried out, "Sister also made a fried sugar pie, and the fellows at
Frankie, Sister Frankie give me a cup of hot Peoples-Tucker just couldn't wait to get their
grease." He was afraid of what the wiggle-tails hands on them, and we bought peanuts with the
would do to him. On second thought, I believe dime and were satisfied. We had lots of
that this was a friend of theirs, or Frankie's Rhubarb in the garden, and mother canned a lot
brother, not Sol himself. We found Sol and of it, as we had pies and other dishes of
Frankie wonderful neighbors. Rhubarb. We also dried fruit, for there was an
apple orchard on the parsonage property. The
The winters in those days were real winters, and two older boys were at Agricultural college at
one winter the snow stayed so long and so deep U. T. and told Dad how to prune and spray the
that schools closed, and naturally, we had lots trees. We also had cherry trees, and we picked
of fun sliding down the hill on the pike in front berries here, there, and yonder. One other thing
of our home. The wagons and teams had a hard we did was to raise peas. We sold a lot of
time climbing it. I spoke of the winters being these, plus beans and other things, but we put
hard in those days. Of course, most of the time up big carbide cans of peas for the winter, so
the parsonages were heated with only a grate we ate well. Farmers often gave us pork at
fire or a heater, and most of the house that was hog-killing time, and most of the time we had
not used was shut off, and only when company pigs for butchering. Once we kept apples in
came was the parlor used, or in the summer cold storage until Christmas or later. We
time. We kids usually slept in a cold room. The hunted nuts, etc. We somehow managed to
washing tub was brought out on Saturday survive the childhood diseases that afflicted us
nights and water heated on the kitchen range at seasons of the years. It is still a marvel how
for baths. We wore long underwear, and long my parents managed to help two sons at
stockings, and button shoes were in vogue those college, and keep some of us in preparatory
days. The outdoor "john" was found most schools and other in Grammar Schools and still
everywhere in those days too. Water came keep going from year to year.
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side to the other, and one simply switched it at
Mildred, our sister, began to attract the attention the end of the furrow and came on back. We
of boys, and we enjoyed some of the gifts that made an excellent crop of corn, but didn't get
came to her from their hands. We all learned much for it, since we were moved, and could
the value of a dollar, and how to work with our not bargain too long. We had learned to break a
hands, and hope that we have been able to pass young mule to riding, how to stack up a neat
this on to others. We saw something of cord of wood of the firewood kind and of the
rationing during the war, but our sugar kitchen stove kind. We also had a good garden,
managed to hold out as well as other foods and even a cantaloupe patch, I believe.
except when they needed replenishing. A
Powder Plant was being built at Jacksonville, During the summer revival, when the church
now called Old Hickory, and bus loads of had a visiting evangelist, I publicly
workers used to pass by each day. Model T's acknowledged my call to preach for the first
were beginning to be somewhat plentiful, and a time. I cannot date my conversion, for it was
few of the luxury class cars as well. gradual, and experiences were many that
deepened my faith. One of the happy
We left Springfield with regret, and went to experiences that came was to care for the
Theta in Maury County. It was in 1919-1920. pressure lamps in the church, and to do other
When we went to Theta in 1919 from things that were helpful.
Springfield, it seemed as if we were going to the
backwoods, for Theta was quite a distance from We were allowed to visit our cousins at a place
Columbia or Franklin in those days. The called Boston, not far from Franklin, for Uncle
school was an incomplete High School, and we Will Lewis had moved there and bought a farm.
lost out on our school work that year. I Tom and Sallie May were first cousins, and
remember that "country singing" classes were children of Aunt Margaret who was mother's
held in the church, and I can still hear, "Life's sister, and had died some years previously, and
evening sun" being sung. The year at Theta Uncle Will had married another wife. I believe
was a full one for we cut wood for sale, that we went coon hunting for the first time, or
grubbed sprouts, and did a lot of other work to was it possum hunting?
help make ends meet.
A Jewish family kept a general store at Theta,
The school there was limited in its years, so and we learned a bit more about Jews. The
some of us had to repeat what we had had other storekeeper said that we were not like
before. Dad always made a point of trying to most of the preachers' kids, for we worked and
move to a place where there was a good school, were behaved. There were three
but could not always be successful. We were churches--Campbellite, Baptist, and Methodist.
kept busy, for we cut wood in the places where They were so close together that the story goes,
the loggers were getting out timber, and even when one sang the song, "Will there be any
though this was mostly on Saturday, we found stars in my crown," the answer came back from
that Dad had big plans for the vacation. Before another, "No, not one." Singing schools were
school was out some of us were taken out of then in fashion, as today, and our church had
school and started grubbing sprouts off land them from time to time. I believe that listening
that had been fallow for some years. There was through the open windows of the parsonage
a barn where we could go when it rained. We next door, and the comments of my father gave
soon thought we had poison oak, or something me a dislike for them until this day.
worse. It turned out that the barn was infested
with pig fleas, and we even got the parsonage Dad had several churches, and at Burwood
infested. Fumigation had to be used. We lived a man named Clarence Jones. I do not
learned to plow with a Hillside Plow, which had know where our sister Mildred met Clarence,
a mold-board that could be switched from one but he started coming to the parsonage
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seemingly to ask Dad for church information, Walter Dorris and his two sisters, Josephine and
and before we knew it the news that she had run Mary. The girls were in high school, while
away and married him just about bowled us all Walter and we were at Williams. Sometimes
over. It was most difficult for Dad and he was the model T had to be helped up the hills, and in
quite upset for a long while, and never became the snow, we often had to assist it. When gas
reconciled to the matter. Clarence was always was low, Walter had to sometimes back it up
rather peculiar, and we laughed far too much at the hills to get enough gas to the engine. On
the poor fellow. He never seemed very happy cold mornings, a tea kettle of hot water had to
for some reason or other. I am sure that he be poured over the manifold to start it. The
showed Sis a lot of troublesome times. They church, next door to the parsonage was called
are both gone now. Douglas Chapel, and there were several
influential families connected with it. Mrs.
Mildred, our older sister, lived during the first Harris, my S.S. teacher made a very vivid
years of her married life on the Jones family impression on my 15-year old mind and soul. It
farm at Burwood. It got so they had a hard was there that I put on long pants, which in
time making ends meet, and Grandpa Jones, those days was a big event in the life of a
Clarence's father, ran a market wagon. I do growing boy.
not know how well he did in those days. It used
to be the custom for a country store to have a During the summer vacation, we secured jobs
regular route for such business throughout the with local farmers, the telephone company, a
countryside for people could not always come group baling hay and other places. I was
to the store, especially during the depression. fortunate in that day and got me a job with a
They had little money, few cars, and quite a bit family near Cottontown, I believe it was called.
of produce as eggs, chickens, etc., which they The man I worked for was one who milked 13
traded for store bought goods. When we lived cows, and it often fell my lot to do the milking,
at Dellrose in the mid-thirties, both the Jean, the separation of the cream, and other duties
and Sherrill stores had market trucks running. about the place. I learned to run the big mower,
and to do many other things. He also raised
When conditions got worse, the Jones family "bearded barley" for feed, and operating the
sold their farm, and moved to Old Hickory, winnowing machine was about the most
where Clarence found work at the DuPont breath-taking job I was called upon to do. It
plant. He always hated the place for some was a "lung busting" job. I did not know it
reason or other, and had very few good words then, but found out later that the crib of the barn
for it or the Campbellite church. Big Sis was where we kept the feed was Strother's Meeting
Clarence's aunt, and Emma was his sister. House, a celebrated Methodist Chapel. It now
They took boarders too, for nearly everyone did stands on the campus of Scarritt College.
in those days. DeBow Street was one of the
streets filled with big duplex tar-paper houses While at Ocana I remember cutting Marshall's
put up during the days of the Powder plant at hair on the promise that when I finished, he
Old Hickory, and most every family had a good would do the same for me. I made such a mess
many of the men and girls who worked at the that it took a local barber a long time to finally
plant boarding with them. straighten it up. When Marsh wanted to claim
my promise of letting him do mine, I was too
When we moved from Theta in 1920, it was to afraid of what he might do to let him start, so
the Sumner Circuit to which Dad was assigned. the promise is unfulfilled until this day.
We lived in a small community called
Ocana--about 6 miles from Gallatin. We were We borrowed a team and wagon and hauled
pleased to find that there was a good school not wood from the top of Pilot Knob, a very high
too far away. It was the Williams Preparatory hill. We had to lock the wheels coming down
School. Marshall and I rode in to school with to control the wagon. Once I went with Dad to
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Shackle Island where there was a large mill, to University, was a fellow classmate. My stay
hold the funeral of a returned soldier's body. with them helped out matters at home in cutting
That was about as far as I got away from home down by one those who had to be fed. When
during that year, save the trips to Gallatin to school was out I went to Burwood to visit sister
school. Mildred and Clarence and Jones family. John,
my older brother was there from Massey. He
Once Earl Stilz, home on furlough from his was restless, and still was rebellious about any
work as a missionary to Congo, visited the parental control. I can well imagine my Dad
church and gave a talk. I can still see some of having to handle him with "Kid Gloves." He
the curios he brought along. It made an cared little for Massey, and was sent to stay
impression upon me, and gave an urge to want with Joe and Louise at Winchester, while I
to do likewise. entered Dover High.

We moved to Dover in 1921, and lived there for I had heard of Granite City, Illinois and how
three years. It was a long move, and the circuit much one could make there, so persuaded the
was large. The parsonage was a large two-story family to let me have a try. A good many men
house built of green lumber, and unable to heat from Dover were there at work and doing well.
in the winter to any satisfaction. We had a Permission was granted, and I soon found a job
good public High School there, and both working at loading tar. I believe that I first had
Marshall and I graduated at Dover High School. to dig the stuff up, and load it into cars on the
We made many friends there. Professor railroad. One had to smear oil all over the
Gorham was the school principal, and an able exposed surfaces of the body to keep the fumes,
school man. There were other good teachers. and the dust of the tar from blistering one in the
Mr. Gorham was a good disciplinarian, and we hot sum. I soon decided that this wasn't the sort
heard that he committed suicide in later years of job I wanted and sought another. I soon was
because of deep depression. It was sad to hear employed at the St. Louis Coke and Chemical
such of so good and so worthy a man. He did Co., in the same city. I was a "Second Helper"
not claim affiliation with any church, but which meant that I was to blow out the tanks
certainly upheld high moral principles. One of where the Napthelene was being extracted from
my teachers simply could not understand how I the by-product department of the Coke plant.
could do so well in Plane Geometry in daily This called for passing by the very hot furnaces
classes and just about fall flat on the final where the coal was being processed into coke,
examination. I have never cared for math of and another job was to stir the mixture in the
any kind, and after that course, never took math napthelene tanks, or vats. The odors of that
again. Latin was my favorite subject, and place almost lifted off the top of the head, even
History was next. I have always been sorry that beating the Ammonia extraction place.
I did not major in History in college instead of Ammonium Sulphate was another by-product,
Philosophy. I detested Philosophy, so guess I as well as Benzine. Our locker space was very
was looking for an easy way out. near the ammonia tanks, and sometimes those
tanks ran over, and the wall of water in the
I believe that the first year we were at Dover, I shower was a fair protection. Even then, one
went to Columbia to stay with Joe, my older had to get out of the shower stall, and without a
brother, and Louise, his wife. I was given the stitch on get away from the ammonia. I saw
opportunity of helping them by caring for the people coming toward us stop as if they had run
cow, the yard, and the chickens, as well as into a solid wall, when the wall of ammonia
running errands, and could attend class. I suddenly stood in their pathway. Another job
enjoyed my school days there. Agnes Malloy was to load heated tar. One had to measure the
was my French teacher and I came to like temperature so as not to have it too hot or too
French through her efforts. Everrett cool. It was a ticklish job up on the tank car
Derryberry, the president of Tennessee Tech doing this work. After some weeks, I decided
9
that I would live longer back home, and left. rose. I was asked to keep up with her after
graduation, but have not done a good job of it.
Dad had gotten a job for me at a sawmill as an Another student in the class just a year ahead of
"Off-Bearer", which meant carrying off the us, Henry Oliver, was the son of a Free-Will
slabs as soon as they were peeled off by the big Baptist preacher. He graduated in short pants.
circular saw. After a few hours of this, I He was one of the best graduates of the school.
volunteered to help cut timber instead, for after He himself became a Baptist preacher, and
all I knew how to handle a cross-cut saw. teacher. He was at one time principal of East
During my stay near the lumber project, I Nashville High School, and later
boarded with a good family, but when I heard Superintendent of the Nashville Schools. The
of a much cheaper place, I left and tried it out story is told of how his father was enrolling him
for a night or so. The family were very poor, at Southwestern College, then at Clarksville,
the food miserable, and the sleeping and now at Memphis. Henry still wore short
accommodations worse. I found out that after I pants. When the Dean saw Henry, he asked his
fell asleep at night, the parents brought the Dad to get him long pants before he came to
children to my room, and I woke up next college.
morning with some of them in my bed, and
others on the floor about. I soon decided that I We did not have preaching services every
was in the wrong place for work, and secured a Sunday, so we went to the Christian church on
job on a farm. alternate Sundays, and sometimes attended the
services of the Baptists who were beginning an
It was a nice place, and I spent the rest of the organization and meeting in the courthouse.
summer, cutting and baling hay, cultivating We took care of the church and the pressure
tobacco, making apple cider, and doing the lights. It was a pretty church and had a special
thousand and one things that a farm calls for. window in the end of it to commemorate the
Finally when the worms became bad on the end of the Civil War, with the gray and blue
tobacco and the farmer sprayed it with Paris shaking hands. Fort Donelson is at Dover and
Green, I used to get sick and vomit. I suffered one of the decisive battles of the Civil War was
out the days until we cut the tobacco, and hung fought here.
it in the barn. Sometimes I had to stand
spraddle-legged in the top of the barn and It was the custom for each graduate to deliver a
receive the tobacco plant as it was handed to short oration during the closing exercises. Mine
me. One gets used to the heights in time. Once was about Carrie Nation. I have long since
in the apple orchard, the son of the farmer forgotten the contents, and recall only one
showed me how he made more cider for sale phrase, "Carrie Nation with a Hatchet." It was a
later for vinegar. He would add a lot of creek great day for each of us. Marsh graduated the
water to it. When I protested that this was next year, so there are two Lovells who are
dishonest, it rolled off him as if no protest had alumni of Dover High School.
been made. I enjoyed the cider until it became
too hard to drink. I hope that I missed the creek Dad always envisioned a college education for
water mixture. his children, and so we began the search for a
college. Emory University was the Methodist
Our class at Dover School had fifteen members. College which took the place of Vanderbilt, and
We were a closely knit group, and enjoyed our in those days offered some cuts in expenses for
days together. The Cherry girls, Nova and preachers' children. That was the place. I have
Viola, Walter Brigham, Lucille Keel, Oscar always felt that I might have received just as
Vaughan, who married Viola later, Burrus good an education closer to home, and probably
Lewis and others were people for whom one at less cost, but Dad wanted me to be in a
had high respect. Lucille came in from the Methodist school. He was always sad that
country each day, and had cheeks as pink as a Vanderbilt had been weaned away from the
10
church. What a greenhorn I was. I hardly was a rather weather beaten place, with poor
knew which end of the street car to catch, but beds and poor food, but about as cheap a decent
met a boy on the way to Emory, while we were place where the company could house and feed
on the train, and he helped me some. The us. I remember some of the men climbing over
dormitories were full, so I stayed off campus in the wall of the bathroom to take a bath, so as to
a private home along with others. Some weeks save the quarter of a dollar charged for that
later, I was able to get into Alabama Hall, the ablution. At the close of the training period, we
Freshman dorm. I was always strapped for were assigned to go to Maryland. It seemed a
money, and work was hard to find. I finally did long way off, but we finally arrived at
get a job delivering suits for the pressing club. Westminster, and secured a boarding place.
Later I found work washing dishes along with
others at the dining hall. My grades were only We soon set off through the town and
fair but slowly I became adjusted to University communities of that part of Maryland with our
Life. sample cases. We found the work hard and
interesting. We stayed with anyone who
I suppose that Freshman English was one of the invited us at night, and lunched with those who
hardest subjects, and the many themes were asked us, and made it back to headquarters on
really difficult to compose. We had a rather the week- ends. We attended the local
hard boiled teacher who used a percentage Methodist church. The church had a college
grading system. I never did too well in his there called Westminster. We were kept so
class, but passed the course. Bible was a busy that we kept out of mischief. Some weeks
subject I enjoyed a lot, and even though John were good, and some not so good. By the end
Knox was a good teacher, I must admit that my of the summer, Marsh had more orders than I
faith was a bit shaken by some of the "Higher had. I was able to deliver most of my orders. I
Criticism" I heard for the first time. I had been found that keeping the sales record was an
reared in a theologically conservative home. I excellent way to develop memory, for I could
was able to take it in my stride, and have start at the beginning of the order book, give the
always been thankful that I was taking a course name and address of each person, and tell the
in biology which helped. Later, Evolution and item bought. I lost that art some months later.
Genetics, with Eugenics were of great help. What a memory I might have developed.
Fosdick's, "Modern Use of the Bible" helped
me in the change of theological change. I saw I ran into family quarrels, strange food, and
others who seemed to have their faith wrecked. many experiences. I was even bitten by a dog.
One house I went to presented a dilemma. As I
I continued my study in Latin, and in Greek, as walked up the walk to the door, the little girl
well as in French. We had excellent teachers. I came out and said, "Mama doesn't want any."
went to the different churches in Atlanta, and at That was it. Usually we were well received,
times taught a S. S. class during my student and found hospitality. I learned to eat
days. The older students in the Candler School smearcase for breakfast (cottage cheese). One
of Theology manifested a great interest in Seventh Day Adventist family gave me bacon
others who would come after them, and often for breakfast. On one occasion I was ordered
assisted us in finding churches where we could out of the garden by an irate farmer, but not
be of service. I shall forever be grateful to before I finished selling his wife a Bible. That
them. was one I sent C. O. D. on deliver date. I made
something over $400 that summer, and that was
When summer came in 1924, I went back to a big help in meeting expenses at college.
Nashville, where I met Marshall and we took
training from the Southwestern Book Co., on Marsh accompanied me to Emory, and we had
selling Bibles and other books. We stayed at been there only a few weeks when a telephone
the old Merchants Hotel on lower Broadway. It message came telling of the death of Dad. He
11
had been at his new circuit at Medium and the next. I suppose that having to hear this
Harms, had sold Molly, bought a model T and music gave me a great distaste for country
was ready to start his pastoral work. One music.
morning as he went to milk the cow, he had a
stroke and died instantly. Marsh and I came for I am sure that I talked to Mildred of my
the funeral at Franklin where he was buried. difficulties about getting work at DuPont. She
We were not sure that it would be possible for did a bit of work behind the scenes, for she was
us to stay at Emory, but Mother insisted that we working there, and soon I was hired as
return. We did so, and it was proposed that we "spinerette cleaner". The little thimble like jet
transfer to Cumberland University at Lebanon. heads for the viscose to pass through often got a
However the Tennessee Conference offered bit of dirt or dried viscose, and had to be
some money on loans and a small scholarship, carefully cleaned and inspected. It so happened
so we stayed at Emory. Mother moved to that Mildred's father was working in the same
Franklin, for she had lived there some years department, and when the fellows found out
while in school and it felt more like home to that I "was keeping company", with his
her. With her were Gilbert, Margaret and daughter, I got quite a bit of kidding. I fear that
Marvin. Marvin was the last, born at Dover. I I was a better Baptist than a Methodist that
believe Gilbert finished High School and went summer, for we both got a great deal of
to work in Nashville. pleasure in being together all that we could.
We had a busy summer together and all too
During the summer, Marshall decided to sell soon the time came for me to return to school.
aluminum, and I was scheduled to sell
stereopticon views, but the more I thought The Methodist Church was just organizing that
about it, the less I liked it. I decided to go to summer at Old Hickory, and Rev. W. H. Saxon
Old Hickory and try to get a job at DuPont. It was the pastor. The congregation met in the old
was a pretty raw looking place, with all the "Y" building, where the community hall stands
barrack type homes, and crowds of people there at present. Sometimes Mildred went to church
working at the Rayon Plant. Sis and Clarence with me, and by the end of the summer, we
were there, so I stayed with them, and sought were engaged, although we both knew that it
work. It was not an easy matter to find just a would be a long time before we could marry.
summer job. One was accepted if there were In those days it was not the custom for a
prospects for long time employment, but not for marriage to take place before schooling was
three months. finished. I should say that it was rare. So we
courted in the summer of 1925. We still have
I was about to leave, when something happened some of the notes that we exchanged as we
that greatly affected my life. Clarence's sister went to work, for I would go by her desk and
Emma had told me when I had said something pick up one and leave one. I felt that the Lord
about not seeing a girl at Old Hickory that I had enriched my life in giving me someone to
would care to go with, about a girl down the love, and cherish. We continued to correspond
street that might change my mind. I summoned almost daily, and sometimes were able to see
up courage to try and see her. I knocked on the each other during the vacation periods from
door where the Wright family lived and saw a school.
young lady at the piano playing a hymn with
one finger. She was soon introduced to me as Mildred returned to High School at
Mildred Wright, and we sat down for a Goodlettsville, where she graduated. She had
conversation. I must admit that I liked her very to have transportation to and from school, so
much. I think that she thought that I was a bought a model T, and once while I was there,
stuffy college boy. This was in the time when we went for some reason or other to the old
"Little Mary Fagan", and "Floyd Collins" was home place at LaGuardo in Wilson County. I
played on the phono from one end of the day to took over the wheel of the car, and learned to
12
drive. Mildred vows and declares that I have B. degree in March of 1928, and my B. D. in
been a speed demon from that day until this. June of the same year. Summer work was
received in an offer from the pastor of the
I devoted most of my time to school, for I Cumberland City Circuit, who asked me to
attended summer school in order to shorten the assist him while he was in revivals, and looking
time that I could be in school. I came home after his sick wife. Just as I was about ready to
only occasionally for money was not plentiful. go, a letter came saying that I would have to
Once I was able to make a trip to Jefferson take over from him, for his wife was worse and
City, where Mildred was in school, at Carson that he had taken her to Missouri to her home,
Newman. She had taught school a year at and that he would have to be with her. I had to
Goodlettsville, after graduation. We had a very borrow the money to get there, and along about
happy few days together. During this visit, our the middle of June I arrived in Cumberland
first kiss took place, and many others followed. City. I was brand new, and such a
I was in "seventh heaven" all the way back to responsibility almost floored me. Everything
Emory. She had about two years at Carson was in a state of confusion, so I finally managed
Newman, and we agreed that if we were to find a place to board at the little hotel, and to
married before she finished college, that she more or less settle down to my job. I decided
could return and finish while we were in the that visiting the parishioners was the best way
pastorate. to get acquainted with the people and their
needs, so spent most of the summer doing just
I had considered no other work than the this. Since I was on foot, I accepted hospitality
pastorate, but was influenced by Marsh who where it was offered, and they seemed glad to
was a Student Volunteer, while at Emory. I had have me. The parsonage paling fence had been
asked Mildred if she would go to Africa with torn down, and it was scattered all over the
me if the Lord directed us there, and her reply place. I tried to clean up that mess, but I am
was in the affirmative. We both felt that this afraid I did not do much for the house itself. I
was right, and later developments led us to this walked all over the place, and I fear I spoiled
very thing. the people for my next year when I bought a
car.
Once while at Emory, and while I was still
washing dishes to help care for expenses, we There was a lot of backwater that year for the
the crew felt that we were getting the little end Cumberland was out of its banks, so a car
of the deal, and I took it upon myself to talk would not have really helped much that
straight to Peggy, the dietitian. Her boy friend, summer. I was returned by the conference and
whom we called "High-Pockets" threatened us the Bishop. Mother was persuaded to come
if we said more, so it was not long until I was in down and keep house for me. At the same
the midst of quite an uproar, for the students conference I was received on Trial and ordained
backed us. I was called upon the carpet by Dr. a deacon. The Daugherty, Bayer, Stacker,
Parker, the Dean of the Seminary, by the Dean Gillahan, Thomas, Bradford, and Dunbar
of men of the college and finally by Dr. Cox, families were especially kind. There were
the President of the University. I was finally others who had a keen interest in helping a
told that I could either apologize or be kicked young green preacher come into his own. I
out of the university. I felt that things had gone boarded at the hotel with the Bedwells when in
far enough, so chose to apologize, and the affair the little town. I stayed at home more now that
blew over. There were reforms made in the mother and the children were with me. And
dining hall. I lost my job, but things were naturally some said the preacher did not visit
corrected to a large degree. like he used to. The first Sunday there with the
car, when I got stuck in the creek on my way to
I had worked a combination course in College an afternoon appointment, led one old
and Seminary, so I was ready to receive my A. gentleman to say, "Well, Preacher, when you
13
were walking you made it each time, but now their Horns and looking at us laughing, and we
with the car, you aren't able to get to us." I had finally stopped and found a "Just Married" sign
to go over that little road and spend hours on the car. There may have been some old
cutting all the branches that seemed determined shoes, but I do not remember. We went to the
to reach out and scratch up the car. I also tried Sam Davis Hotel for our Honeymoon night, and
to fix some of the deep mud holes. I was so unaccustomed to signing the register
that I wrote E. H. Lovell, and wife. We were so
Mildred and I were to be married on February happy to be together that we didn't sleep too
25, 1929, so Mother and I set out for Old much. There was too much to talk about.
Hickory. I do know that I was so poor that Because of the high water, we were unable to
before Mother and I could drive to Old return home immediately as we had planned, so
Hickory, I had to go to the bank and borrow we went to Laguardo to visit with Mildred's
money against my salary in order to go to the Uncle Lee and Aunt Lena Wright.
wedding. That wasn't too hard, for Mr. Alex
Daugherty was the cashier, and he knew that By the time we arrived back at Cumberland
he would get the money back when the City people were wondering where we were.
stewards collected the quarter's money for the They had planned a reception and shower for us
quarterly meeting. at the church. Miss Margaret Stacker was the
person responsible for most of it. She and her
There was some snow on the ground, and it was mother were dear souls, and lived out a mile or
plenty slushy. Some of the roads were closed, so from town. I had not even told many that I
so we went by way of Clarksville, and tried to was off to be married, or when we would be
go the Joelton road. At one place we got returning. As one would guess, there was quite
stopped just as the car slipped off the road on a a crowd at the church to welcome the bride, and
culvert, and almost tipped over. I got some groom. We were very happy, and gradually life
help and soon we were on our way. Brother returned to somewhat normal conditions.
Saxon performed the ceremony at the Wright
Residence, and our lives were united. We had When we finally returned to Cumberland City,
asked Sally Brooks, a nurse that I had known at we had to skirt some of the backwater of the
Emory to play the violin, which she did swollen Cumberland River, but finally made it.
beautifully. At our wedding ceremony, Mary Mother, Margaret and Marvin were all living
Davis, a cousin of Mildred's played and (the with me before our marriage, and so we
vows were) said in the living room of the decided to continue sleeping on the screened
Wright House in Rayon City. Mr. Hunter now back porch, even in the winter time. That was
owns the house and has made many changes. in the days before too many slept in single or
twin beds, so we made out fine. There was a
I believe that Mary Davis sang at our wedding, tiny room on the end of the porch where I had
"I love you truly, dear." It has slipped my an office if it could be called that. I think we
memory. About the only things I remember had a small heater there, so could get warm
are: Mildred and I were married in her before going to bed, and dress there in the
parents' home, with Rev. W. H. Saxon, mornings. Mother lived with us until we moved
performing the ceremony, Sally, a nurse friend to Palmyra, when she went to live with Marsh,
of Emory days playing the violin, driving to who was still single, and needed someone to
Nashville and folk passing by laughing at the keep house for him.
"Just Married" sign on the car. It was an
occasion of so much joy that a lot of the details We slept on the screened in side porch, which
have been forgotten. You will have to consult was quite cold during the winter months.
your mother for more. She can tell you. Spring was on its way and we had a garden, and
Mrs. B. Stacker across the alley-way asked if
On our way to Nashville, people kept blowing we would not cultivate hers also. Salaries were
14
low in those days and with the fresh meat that summer, we were invited to meals which were
came from farmers at hog-killing time, plus bountiful but over which the flies swarmed, for
other gifts, we were able to make it quite well, many of them did not keep the screens repaired
even keeping up the payments on the car. or shut. We did not seem to suffer from those
meals.
We were in the Clarksville District, and most of
the District meetings were held there, so we did One of the few marriage ceremonies that I
travel a bit. The roads were not so good toward performed while at Cumberland City was one
St. Paul's church, and I sometimes got stuck to for my brother Gilbert, near Franklin. Gil
the axle and on both at the same time in the married Margaret Whitfield, and the wedding
ruts. I used fence rails to get out, and pass by was in the home of the Whitfields. I was really
the worst places. Once I arrived at the church filled with "butterflies" in performing the
to preach, all muddy after my bout with the car, ceremony. But I guess I came through it all
and found one person to hear the sermon. right. I believe that it was the first wedding I
Another time we got stuck in a flooded ford at a conducted. Another was of Paul Williams of
creek, and had the valve stem cut off. Water the Tennessee Conference. When he and
got into the gas tank through the vent hole, and Maggie decided to get married, the ceremony
we had to unscrew the filter bowl many times was performed out of doors while they were in
before we reached home. I took the car to the the car or standing near it. I think there was
garage the next day, but they found not another some question as to whether the license was
drop of water. Another day I decided to good in Stewart County, or it may have been
remove the distributor of the car, and was soon Houston County.
in such a muddle that I had to call the mechanic
to put it right. I knew nothing about the Dad had a lot of books and commentaries. One
"timing" of the engine. was Matthew Henry, and the other may have
been McClinton and Strong. We felt that we
When we went to the church on the other side would not be using them since the theology of
of the river, we usually stayed several days to our day was a bit different from that of Dad's
visit. We had to cross on the ferry, and go day so we decided to sell them. We felt that we
across a long causeway. In high water, this was needed the money, but have always wondered if
almost impossible. The Dunbar home was a we did the right thing. The commentaries
favorite place to stay in that community. When might have been of far more value that the
we were on the other side of the river, we often money we got for them.
spent the night with the Dunbars. Our bed was
in the spare room, and about the time that we Jim Majors and Anne, his wife, boarded at the
would be ready to go to sleep, "bam, bam, Bidwells, and we became good friends. She
bam" could be heard all over the house, with was Faxon Small's sister. On one occasion
the slats falling out. He was one of the mail Mrs. Stacker from whom we often got milk and
carriers. They were very, very, nice people. butter, offered us part of a ham if we could
There were many cases of pellagra, for they ate open the smokehouse door. I tried and tried,
mostly "sow belly" and cornbread, which but did not realize that the lock was a double
lacked the elements of a good diet. Greens and one, so failed to get the promised ham. She
other things were preventives, but the people of gave us some slices as a consolation prize.
that section were very poor. Often we would They were very good to us. We tried to
go to bed, and the slats would fall out one by reciprocate by taking them places in the car.
one until we were on the floor. Some of the The elections were coming along, and I thought
people were share-croppers and very poor. that I would vote, so went out and got them.
They had a good deal of pellagra in that When I went in to the polls, I was asked my
community from eating "fat-back" and corn business there, and told that I had not been in
bread. Their diet was unbalanced. In the the county long enough to be a voter. I always
15
felt that I voted, for the Stackers would not have Volunteer Conference at Maryville College
been able to get to the polls without my taking along with Marsh. He had met Eloise, and she
them there, and they voted as I would have. I was one of the officers of the conference. So,
suppose that it was against Al Smith. we met our sister-in-law. They were married
later. When W. E. Tabb sent a cablegram from
When the end of the conference year came, we Congo, saying, "Africa needs you," we felt that
were moved to Palmyra, just about 13 miles we were ready to make the decision to go. The
away, nearer Clarksville. We did not have far story of David Livingstone in my father's
to move that fall. We considered Palmyra a library, and other books influenced my life in
promotion and it was a good appointment. The that direction a great deal. Mildred's call had
Swift family were very good to us. We may not come when she was a teen age girl, but her
have had much money, but enjoyed our work mother said that young ladies did not go as
there. We stayed with them only about six missionaries. So it was in 1930 that we
months, for we soon felt that our work lay on answered the call to become missionaries, and
the mission field of the church. Here we had the Board (Mission) thought of China for us,
several churches again, and spent a great deal of but as we had a strong leaning toward Africa
time in visitation. We had a somewhat better through the Tabbs, and Maws being there, the
parsonage, and we found the people very Board finally acceded to our request for service
friendly and hospitable. Mother decided to in Congo. It was a moment of high resolve, and
keep house for Marshall, since he was assigned happiness as we prepared for our work there.
to the West Point circuit. He was not married. Mildred had felt the call to be a missionary
The Swift, Broome, and Allen families were while a girl, I suppose that I had been on the
very nice to us, as well as many others. Once verge of it for a long time. Tabb, and Joe Maw
we were staying in the church community were my classmates who had gone to Congo in
across the river from Palmyra, and being fresh 1928. Another Emory man was in Congo
air fiends had the window open. The next also--Dr. William Hughlett and his wife Violet.
morning, we had a lot of snow in the room by
the window. We still have a little oak table we I do not remember when we applied to our
were given there. Once I was holding a funeral Board of Missions, which was then located in
and forgot my Bible which I laid on a Nashville. I do remember Bishop Cannon
tombstone while I was having the graveyard interviewing us at the old Tulane Hotel, and
service. I missed it, and could not imagine being very impressed when Mildred told him
where it was. Some time later, I was handed that she liked to raise chickens. We were
my Bible with the comment that this preacher consecrated in McKendree Church along with
must not use the Bible too often. Foye Gibson, who was to go to Poland. David
Livingstone's Africa would now become a
We ate many sweet potatoes, for they were reality. Plans were made for us to sail with the
given in the poundings. I once shocked DeRuiter family. They had two children,
Mildred when I took my bowl of soup out on William and Martha, then a baby in arms. We
the porch to cool. She couldn't imagine a separated but were to meet in New York, and
person not wanting food that was hot. I sail to Antwerp, Belgium where we would buy
surprised some of the Russelites and 7th Day our supplies, and arrange for our trip to the
Adventists who came through selling books. Belgian Congo.
They told some of my people that I seemed
somewhat prejudiced against them. It was the first time that either of us had been
out of the state, and so travelling by train
During the winter months, we did a great deal proved interesting. We stopped off in
of reading, and much of mine was on Missions. Washington to see a bit of the sights, and when
I was greatly interested in what the church was it came time for us to leave I was at Union
doing overseas. We attended a Student Station getting tickets etc., I made the mistake
16
of practicing old time southern chivalry, for I let were things that we could have left off. Only
ladies go first. I found out that this had cost us the following years proved this. The Belgians
the train that we were to be to New York on. always thought the sun far more dangerous than
When I looked for Mildred, I could find her it really was.
nowhere. I searched and searched, and was
upon the point of going to the police to report Mosquito nets and mosquito boots proved very
her lost, when she came out of the ladies' helpful, especially in the evenings when there
lounge where she had been for a nap. We were always plenty of mosquitoes and other
arrived in New York rather late, and when at insects. We took along some permanganate in
our hotel, found no one who sounded natural in which to wash green vegetables, but I do not
speech save the elevator man, who happened to believe that we used it very much, for several
be from Georgia. We have never cared for washings in good water were sufficient. There
New York, because of the rush of life, the was much speculation about the tropics, which
noise, and the hustle and bustle of things. We wasn't true. It was like "Old wives' fables". A
did get so we could understand the ordinary bath-tub trunk was really useful, for this was
person when he talked. Some were interested before there were any permanent bathtubs or
in our way of speech, for they would have us bathrooms in our part of the world, and it was
repeat and repeat in order to hear our southern simply a tub in the shape of a bath-tub, with a
accent. wicker basket inside it for holding clothing
when not in use as a bath. It had no drain, and
We met the DeRuiters, and were soon on the we had plenty of men around who didn't mind
S.S. Pennland. The voyage was a never to be taking it out to empty it. We later installed
forgotten experience for us, since we had not bathrooms with tub of cement and even a toilet
been on the ocean before, or even seen it. The commode of the same substance. These served
width, depth, and movement of the sea was their day, and were later replaced by real
indeed fascinating. The meals were superb, and sanitary fixtures. Water was usually rain water,
we found the voyage very interesting. or water poured in to the gas drums which
formed the water system of a residence.
When we arrived in Antwerp about ten days
later, a thief stole one of the DeRuiter bags. It We had opportunities to visit Brussels and see
happened to be the one in which the dirty the sights there, the Cathedrals, and the
diapers were kept, so I can well imagine his Museum, to mention two. We also visited the
utter surprise. William took us out to a little Cathedral at Antwerp. There were many
place to eat, and although he explained about famous paintings there. We went one day with
the custom of bringing the food for one's Mr. DeRuiter to the organ factory to buy a
approval, we were hardly prepared for the huge folding organ. When not in use, it folded up
platter with a large fish beautifully prepared, like a small suitcase. The case was of metal to
which had been ordered by Mildred. We protect it.
helped her eat it, and it proved to be a gourmet's
delight. Little William DeRuiter had some Soon the time came for the trip to Congo--a sea
escapades back at the hotel, riding the elevators, voyage of about eighteen days. We were to sail
and into a thousand and one things. He was at on the S.S. Anversville--Anvers being the
that age. Little Martha was a sweet French for Antwerp. We were all eyes as we
well-behaved baby. sailed out of the port and soon came to the
We were soon at the big store buying our North Sea, and later the Bay of Biscay--a rough
equipment, foodstuffs, and clothing that we body of water which makes the unwary
would need. I am sure that we bought some traveller very seasick. Once the purser asked
things unwisely, but people new to the tropics me to conduct the services on Sunday, when we
had to learn from experience. The heavy were leaving Antwerp. I asked what our
helmet, the stomach bands, and the spinal bands location would be on Sunday morning, and
17
when told "the Bay of Biscay," I hastily
excused myself, for I knew that I would be in Mr. Hearn in charge of the Hostel for
bed sick as a dog--in other words seasick. And Missionaries met us at the station at Kinshasa.
this was true. This hostel had been built some years before
and was operated by the 6 mission societies
We enjoyed a brief stop at the Canary Islands, who had put up the building. Our church was
and I believe that was the only stop until we one of the 6 societies, so we had no trouble
came to Matadi. As we approached the mighty getting into the hostel. We heard a voice
Congo river and saw its waters, all muddy, outside the train shouting, "Open the window,
flowing out into the Atlantic Ocean, we felt that and get your bags out." We quickly obeyed,
we were nearing the end of our dream of many and soon were speeding over the cobblestones
years. Sailing up the river itself was most of the city, in a car chauffeured by one called
interesting, and we stopped for a while at Lutete. He was a speedy driver and Mr. Hearn
Boma, where we met the first Congo called him down from time to time. We
missionaries save the ones with whom we had remained at Kinshasa for two weeks since Mr.
travelled. The Ennals family had been of great DeRuiter had been charged with the finding of
help to us, for Mr. Ennals gave us lessons in a buyer for the mission steamer, The Texas.
Kingwana a dialect of Swahili. He made us The depression was already being felt in
have class on the Fourth of July. Canvas had Congo, so this was not an easy task. The reason
been spread over most of the deck and one had that our society had the boat was because it had
plenty of room to play shuffle board, lounge in been so difficult to get passage on the state
the sun, or recline in the lounge chairs, and owned steamers. Many of the societies on the
read. The ship carried a library. The Ennals river had such boats. The same thing was true
were English. It was the rule of the Baptist of the Hostel, called the UMH.
Mission Board for them to leave all young
children at home, for they felt that would be too We now faced another long journey into the
hard on them to endure the tropics. Mrs. Ennals interior--18 days by boat up the Congo, Kasai
was really sad about this and missed her baby and Sankuru rivers to Lusambo, with a change
very much. of steamers at Port Franqui, the end of the
railroad from Elizabethville. We had to take
Matadi was a very busy port, and there was lots along drinking water, and things like candy, and
of activity when our ship arrived. We managed a few other delicacies. They did have bottled
to get our bags through customs, and were water, of the carbonated variety, but we would
seeking a cooler place at the A. B. C. hotel, or want something else besides that. We did buy
was it the Swedish Mission. We now had to lemons en route, and made carbonated
arrange for the trip by train to Kinshasa about lemonade. The food was fair, especially for the
300 miles up the river, and around the rapids. It first few days, but then got progressively worse.
was a long hard day from early in the morning Meat and potatoes were always the basic foods.
to late in the evening. We had to take along Sometimes we watched a goat being butchered
water, and food for this was before the day of for our dinner. The boat had cabins on the main
the dining car. We had with us several cans of deck, and these were screened for protection
Bear Brand Milk, which we enjoyed very against the mosquitoes and other insects. There
much. We could be consoled by the fact that were plenty of Tsetse flies, and we didn't care
this journey used to take two days with a break for Sleeping Sickness. The walls at night
for the night at a place called Thysville. In would be black with all kinds of insects. We
those days, the rail line was narrow gauge, and did not travel at night, but stopped just before
the train travelled slower. There were many dark to load up wood for the next day's journey.
stations en route and we stopped at many of Most locomotives and boats were wood burning
them. Chinese workmen had been imported to in those days. We saw hippos, and crocodiles.
work on the rail lines when built. It was our custom to take a walk after being
18
cooped up on deck all day to take a walk in the friends for many years after we came to an
villages in the evening. understanding that we had slightly different
beliefs, and we became tolerant of each other.
I made my first acquaintance with driver or
soldier ants on a walk. I had been warned not We found that William and Isabel DeRuiter had
to get too close to them, but didn't pay too much given us a pretty fair introduction to mission
attention, and it felt that a bulldog had me by life, and although we realized that we were not
the leg. The head came off as I pulled him from exactly able to see eye to eye on some things,
the calf of my leg, and I found that his pincers they too became great friends. The first years
were embedded in the flesh. Once was enough. of mission life must have found me rather
We were interested in the villages, and in unbending in my disagreements, but I learned
seeing the people. We were tired of travel and to become tolerant of my colleagues across the
rejoiced to be at Lusambo where we were to be years. The Hughletts, the Reids, the Tabbs, the
met by our colleagues. It was a real joy to find De Gosseries, the single ladies that included
that Elmo Tabb was one of those who had come Dot Rees, Dora Jane Armstrong, Helen Farrie
to meet us. We enjoyed our visit with the and others were very nice to us during those
missionaries of the Wescott Mission, where we days.
spent the night at Lusambo. They were of the
English Brethren Society. Preparations were soon completed for the
Tabbs to accompany us to Tunda where we
Setting out the next day in the green Chevrolet were to live and work. Elmo and Mary Taylor
and a truck, we headed for Minga, about 165 drove us to Onema, the closest road point at that
kilometers in the interior. The roads were rough time, where we spent the night in a government
and very sandy, and we were worn out by the "Gite" or Rest House. We were off on bikes
time we came to Minga. What a nice time we and Mildred in a kipoi, or hammock chair the
had there talking with Joe Maw and others. All next morning. It was to be a journey of two
too soon it was time to leave Minga after a good days. I was riding a bicycle, and soon learned
night's rest and head for Wembo Nyama. This to get along fairly well on it. I had practiced a
was not a full days' journey. bit at Wembo Nyama. Mildred wanted to go by
William DeRuiter Sr., soon came down with bike too, but it was felt that it would be easier if
Typhoid Fever. I suppose he drank some of the she went by hammock. We travelled over the
river water they had on board. It was supposed plains and through the hot sun until in the
to be filtered, but had not been boiled. We afternoon, when we stopped at the village of
visited at Wembo Nyama for some days while Shutsha for the night. Setting up equipment for
preparations were made for our trip to Tunda. the night was done mostly by the African men
who accompanied us. We watched to see how
One morning after arrival at Wembo Nyama, things were done, and how food was bought for
Mr. Anker whom we called "Uncle Pete" asked the men, for we knew that we would have to go
me to come to the "Palaver House". This was through the same experiences another day.
the place where domestic affairs, and other
matters were heard and settlement attempted for I fell off in the swamp the next day, but suffered
all of the Africans living on the Mission Station. no damage, and a few hours after we crossed
I had received some inkling of what our the Lomami River, we came to Tunda.
meeting might be about from Elmo Tabb, and Crossing at the river was done in large dug-out
soon discovered that I was right in my surmise. canoes made from the trees of the forest. There
Mr. Anker wanted to know about my beliefs in were many Tsetse flies, and we were warned to
the doctrines of Christianity. I was able to reply shake them off before they could bite, for we
in such manner as removed most of his fears were to beware of Sleeping Sickness. We found
that I might be another "heretic" as was the trip tiring, and hot, so were happy for
considered Tabb. Uncle Pete and I were great frequent stops. Once I got ahead, and passed by
19
the tent of a Belgian Official, who tried to talk long, and when we came to a waist deep stream
to me, having invited me to have coffee. I am which had no bridge across it, we had to
afraid that I refused his offer, for I did not drink plunge in and wade across. There we were,
coffee, and knew only a wee bit of French. I sopping wet below the knees, and to the waist,
hope that he understood. trying to get out breath before trying the song.
The Africans enjoyed it, but I have a suspicion
The Africans from Tunda came out on the path that a lot of them enjoyed the sight of those silly
to look for us, and what a reception we white people all wet and bedraggled standing
received. We were very happy to come at last up before them to sing a song that was in
to the mission station, where we could talk to English more than they actually enjoyed the
someone. We were duly welcomed, and made singing. Many were these experiences between
to feel at home. I think that there was some 1930 and 1933 on the Tunda District. Most of
curiosity on the part of the missionaries to my itinerations were somewhat like that--for
ascertain just what work I had been asked to do. there was much water on the road, or
I got the impression that we might not be able pathways, for there were no roads as we know
to fit in too well in the work assigned us. Of them in these days. Many times did I stand
course we first had to learn enough of the before a congregation with squishing shoes full
language to be able to communicate, and we of water, and all muddy.
had to set up housekeeping, and get established
before we could do much of anything. We I helped some at the local school, and helped
were invited to board with the Ayres. "Pepe" with the boarding boys. Mildred was busy at
and Verna Ayres were a couple who did the house, at the school, and helping to look
industrial and treasurer's work. We lived in a after the Wheeler girls who were small. Jane
big adobe guest house, where hospital patients Lewis soon became a favorite at the house.
from the Europeans stayed while getting Billy was small at the time. We enjoyed coffee
treatment. Dr. Lewis had a big reputation as a and peanuts at the Lewis home most every
surgeon. afternoon. Later Dr. Lewis said that Zaidee his
wife had to put gussets in his pants when they
Mr. Wheeler agreed to give us lessons in went home on furlough.
Kingwana, adding to the ones given us by Mr.
Ennals. As this was a day by day affair, we had We had quite a few visitors, and one of them
time to get into other things. Our things had not was an old English plantation owner. He was
come for housekeeping, so we had to be content also a hunter, and furnished the mission meat
as guests for some months. We helped Pepe in from time to time. Mr. Baggett was a teller of
stopping leaks in his own house, and as he was tall tales. We often wondered if some of his
busy on a new residence for the single ladies, tales did not come from the Bulawayo
we assisted in helping to get up the roof Chronicle, published in Rhodesia, to the south
structure. "H. T." (Mr. Wheeler) took us to of Congo. There were many wild animals in
some of the churches in the district, and we great herds, and we had elephants come to the
even went with some of the others to sing a station during the night. They played havoc
special. We had to wade the swamp up to our with the Lewis banana patch. Large pythons
waists, so were rather bedraggled when we got were frequently found in the workman's village.
up to sing. Tunda was on the edge of a large forest and
miles from any town of any sort.
We often went out to the out-villages to preach
on Sundays. I remember one of the first times. The road to Tunda was built, but there were
Mr. Wheeler asked some of us to join him on a some bridges which the state had not finished,
bicycle trip to a village not too many kilometers so our goods arrived only on Christmas Day, by
away. We were to sing "Life is like a Mountain the first vehicle that ever arrived at Tunda 1930.
Railway." The sun was hot, the way seemed What a day of rejoicing this was. We were kept
20
quite busy for some weeks to come getting took over the evangelistic program for the
things stored away, and our kitchen set up. district. When the Wheelers went on furlough,
the evangelistic work was left to me and there
I had been told that missionaries and other were just some preachers that I thought lazy
whites usually took a siesta at midday. I paid and not fit for the job. I fired some of them, and
no attention to this for some time, but worked in really bore down on some others. Wheeler
the garden. It was some time before I learned returned from furlough and promptly hired
that a siesta was really necessary, and not just a most of them back. Maybe he was right, but I
waste of time. It could be a time for a good nap thought that I should have been consulted
or for some quiet reading. Young missionaries more, for I considered myself a fair judge of
have a lot to learn. Many were "green" as was character. I think that I was able to persuade
I, but usually with experience comes more the chief of the village to get food for my men
knowledge. On some matters, it takes just that who were carrying my chop-box and other
to convince a new missionary that old ones things on the trip. I made one of the chiefs and
have adopted some skills after all. The working his headman go ahead of us to push down the
during siesta hours was one matter on which I tall grass. He always was very friendly and
had to convince myself. The hard work digging respectful after that occasion. I tried to be
in the garden under the boiling sun helped to firm, without exerting too much authority that I
remind me that there were other ways I could thought a white man should have and I did pay
spend this time. the men well. I think the folk grew to like me,
and those I met in the years following were
It was not long before I was making trips on the very friendly.
district with H. T. We had two little
motorcycles, and used them for some trips, but We spent a lot of time on the path. Checking
they were belt driven, and not so good for the on the schools and the work of the church and
tall grass and the dew, so we used bicycles to preaching in many of the villages gave us
good advantage. fluency in the Kingwana. We had a leader from
the Africans named Ona Omba. He was our
Sometimes during the rainy season, we waded travelling companion, and gave us a great deal
swamps, and crossed streams that came to our of help in these early years. We got acquainted
chins. H. T. advised that I carry my bicycle with the chiefs and head men in most of the
across these deep streams and I soon found out villages. We saw people who had seen very
why, for the weight of the cycle held one on his few whites and many of them were very much
feet, otherwise he would float downstream. afraid of us. Sometimes we had to be a bit
The grass had needles on it and so the tires on dictatorial in demanding food for our workmen
the bikes had to be repaired over and over who were carrying the chop box, containing our
again. Sometimes, we had to use bacon grease food and bedding.
or palm oil to grease the bikes, when motor oil
ran out, and the bearings became dry from In later years, we were able to travel over the
riding through knee deep water by the hour. district by car, and much of this work--i.e. the
The paths through the tall grass were worn selection of the trace for the routes was done by
down into the soil, and lower than the rest of the Wheeler. He used salt as the gift to encourage
plains, so water often filled the path like a the Africans to help him. Wheeler did a great
trench. When one found the path leading across deal for Tunda. He brought out a small saw
a large anthill, there was usually water in a pool mill for cutting lumber. Usually it was done in
on the other side, and many times the bike a rather primitive way of cutting the tree,
would slide around and throw you off in the dividing it into sections, and rolling it on a pit,
mud and water. and then one man stood on top of the log, while
the other was underneath in the pit. They
The Wheelers went home on furlough, and we pulled the saw back and forth on charcoal lines
21
that had been traced until they had the whole Dr. Lewis's motorcycle and Joe in a Model T
sawed into boards. Some of the lumber was truck. It was a bumpy ride, but I was young
really of very fine quality. Tunda had many and could take it. We made it to within a few
forests nearby and excellent hardwood could be miles of the river, when the truck quit running,
obtained. After the boards were sawed out, the and there was nothing we could do to get it
timber was transported into the station on carts running again, so we left it for some days
(push-pushes) or carried on the shoulders by the before trying again. The trouble was probably
workmen. One of the dining room tables at the firing points. When we went back for it, we
Tunda station was topped by a board 4 or 5 feet came to the ferry--a new one mounted on
wide. Beams were also secured that cannot be dug-out canoes, but we had no boards. Joe
had for any price these days. knew what to do. He sent the workmen for
poles, which he tied together, and soon was able
At Tunda, I was one of the judges at the station to drive the old truck onto the ferry. We carried
tribunal which was held once a week to settle the poles over the river, and used them to get
palavers. Dr. Lewis was station chairman was off the ferry. Later, boards were sawed for both
the main man, and when he spoke, he was sides.
obeyed instantly. I can still see the old
policeman jump when doctor yelled at him for During the three years that we lived at Tunda, I
listening through the window. Doctor was a felt that something should be done about the
firm disciplinarian. Most of the palavers courses that were being taught in the Bible
concerned adultery, stealing, beating one's School at Wembo Nyama, for the students
wife, and other domestic problems. knew more about the Devil than they did about
Christ, so I tackled Pete Anker, and his courses.
We were sadly in need of a connecting road This was not appreciated, and soon I had a fuss
from our station, and indeed from our side of going between the conservatives at Wembo
the river to the other side, so Pepe Ayres and I, Nyama and myself, and the Board, for they had
with a large group of workmen decided to lay been told of the argument. I was about to be
out such a road. I suppose that the impetus for put into school work, which I did not care for
it came from the news that Wheeler was and as the depression had cut funds for the
bringing back a car, and would not be able to Board, they were looking for ways to
get it home unless there was such a road. We economize. We were the latest couple to come
spent a week on the plains from near Onema to out, so were selected as the first to return home.
the Lomami. The sun was hot, and we really Funds were being cut here, there and yonder.
had a time deciding where the route should go. Before we left the field, I had appendicitis, and
At one small grove, a hornets nest caused us to was operated on by Dr. Lewis, and Dr. Hughlett
veer around where the road should go. When at the old grass covered operating room. A
the route was completed, that veer or curve still sheet above the table kept particles of dust and
remains until this day. We also selected a new grass from falling onto the table. I had a roll of
ferry site, if I am not mistaken, somewhat some fat on my tummy, so it was hard for the doctors
distance from the old, bicycle path. We were on to make the stitches hold. I finally recovered,
bikes, but did a lot of walking that week. Pepe but have a big scar to show for the job. There
liked to hunt so killed an antelope for us and for was lots of malaria at Tunda, and I really had to
the men. We enjoyed the delicious antelope take lots of quinine. I was soon able to take 45
steak. grains a day, and still play tennis. We did play
tennis in those days, after the work of the day.
Both the Lewis family and the Ayres family as
well as the rest of us enjoyed this road across Mildred and I had planned for children, and
the Plains of the Otodi. It was a long straight after waiting for two years decided that we
plain of many miles. Joe Maw and I were the should start our family. We were delighted
first persons to travel over the road, for I was on when she became pregnant, and especially
22
when Jeanette was born on December 31, 1931. axle break about half way to Lusambo. This
We had hoped that the first would be a boy, so meant that we had to stop in the middle of the
decided to name her Jeanette. Her other name road, and await a mechanic from Lusambo to
was Mildred for her mother, and Jeanette was come with a replacement. We asked the
for Gene, her dad. She was the most beautiful villagers to bring us some food, and soon had
baby ever, and we tried to do everything by the rice and a chicken all beautifully cooked by the
book in her care. By the time we came home, African women. We had one spoon, which was
she was walking, and talking a bit. What a Jeanette's so ate in relays.
change she made in our lives.
Late next day the man arrived to fix the truck,
As I have recorded, our first daughter, and we made it on into Lusambo, where we
Jeanette, was born on December 31, 1931. Her were soon bathed and visiting with the Moyes.
mother wanted to call her Jeanette for she We decided to return rather than face other
looked so much like me. While she was still a incidents on the road. We had a long trip back
baby, I found a "Basenji" dog which we called to Minga, spent the night and were off the next
Spot. When I brought the dog home, he was day for Lake Makamba. With us were
full of fleas. I doubt that we ever got rid of all Catherine Parham, and the Lewis family. The
those fleas, for this was before flea collars, and road was new, and very sandy. We carried
other medicines which are used today. extra water for the radiator which was soon
boiling furiously from pulling through the deep
We had several men helping us at Tunda. Papa sand. I could not begin to guess how many
Kahudi was one. He had a house full of times we were forced to fill the radiator, which
children, and seeing twin bananas on the stalk boiled away the water so quickly, The truck
would lead him to say that Mildred would have would often be so hot that its engine would
twins, etc. Bichu was our cook for a while. continue to run with the key off.
The washjack was a backwoodsman, and even
though I went to all the trouble to build him a We enjoyed the good swimming, and hiking,
wash bench, the first time he used it was funny. but tragedy soon struck again. Dr. Carroll
He stood on the bench with the tub of clothes Mount, who was our youngest doctor came out
on the ground, and tried to wash them that way. for a day or so of recreation, and while out in
the boat was drowned. When the Africans
The nearest place that we had for a vacation brought us the news, we ran to the scene and
was Lake Makamba, which was in the Asongo searched and searched for his body, but to no
country, and in one corner of the District of avail. Finally, I was the one selected to go to
Minga. It was a small fresh water lake, and Minga to carry the sad news to Helen, his wife,
later stocked with fish. There were many horse and to the others and to get help for finding the
antelopes, and other game animals nearby. The body. Joe Maw came in the car with me, and
missionaries finally were able to get a cottage finally grappled for the body and found it. We
or so built on its shores. We had to travel to had to hastily prepare for a return to Minga, for
Minga to secure the Chevrolet truck to take us decomposition was setting in rapidly. What a
there. We had first thought of having a journey, and what sadness at the other end.
vacation at Lake Munkamba, near Luluabourg, Helen was pregnant with their first child. The
in Presbyterian country, but had so much funeral took place the day we arrived, and many
trouble by the time we arrived at Lusambo that things were said to the young widow which hurt
we decided to turn back to Lake Makamba. We deeply, for remember most of the missionaries
hadn't gone very far until we discovered that were very conservative in their faith and
one of the front wheel bearings was missing or theology, and should have kept quiet. Some
giving trouble, so sent for Joe Maw, who was weeks later, after the death of the baby, Helen
the mechanic and transport man. He got us all planned to travel home with us. We had sold
fixed up, and we set out, only to have a rear our little accumulation of supplies, our bikes
23
and what food was left, and were taken by truck continuation of our voyage toward Europe, we
to Kibombo, our nearest railway station, where made several friends, and enjoyed many hours
we were to board the train for Kindu, where we of fellowship with them.
would be taking a boat to Stanleyville, and a
still larger boat for Kinshasa, then by rail to At the table in the dining room, Helen said that
Matadi, and by Ocean steamer to Europe, and she would try most of the cheese offered, but
then home to the U.S.A. when it came to Horve, she had to take her plate
to the nearest porthole and empty it. We spent
We had some happy times on the way home, a day or so in Antwerp, and then went over to
and were able to cheer up Helen to some London. While there, we took the opportunity
degree. She took care of Jeanette a great deal to see one of Shakespeare's plays in an open-air
on the voyage. On the river steamer from theater in one of the parks one evening. It was
Kindu to Stanleyville, she used to take out her very good and even though the August weather
teeth, and amaze the Africans with this feat. was very cold, we came away much impressed.
We also toured London, got lost in its
We stopped at Wayika to see Mr. Whitehead, underground, took Jeanette to Westminster
an old English Baptist Missionary, who had Abbey, where she literally wiped up the dust of
been ordered home by his Board, since it was the centuries. Her clothes and hands were
difficult to care for him, and he was entrenched black. We also took in Wesley's Chapel, and
in one spot all to himself. He had a long white went to a Sunday morning service there.
beard, and looked like Santa Claus. He had London was a very interesting place.
done a lot of work on Kingwana, and was the
recognized expert in this language. Upon our I bought my one and only Tuxedo suit there, so
arrival at Ponthiersville, we found that we that I could dress for dinner on the steamer
would take the train on into Stanleyville. We coming to New York. I finally had it changed
arrived there and stayed at the hotel, if I am to a regular suit, and suppose that it finally
correct in memory. We spent a day or so there, clothed some African man. We were travelling
and were soon boarding a very large river with a couple of Mennonite missionaries, and
steamer--the Kigoma. they were very strict. I fear that we influenced
one a bit from her teachings, for she finally
This steamer had been made for the consented to going to the Shakespeare play with
Mississippi, they told us. It seemed as large as us, while the older one was our baby sitter. One
an ocean going one, and the decks were quite lady we met on the steamer coming home was
large. We had many passengers, and Helen able to give us an insight into church life at
spent so much time letting them admire Jeanette Riverside in New York. One took time to learn
until some of the women wanted to know from much from such a voyage--far more than in
Mildred, whose child she really was. Jeanette later years when we flew back and forth from
learned to stand erect in my hand, and balance Congo.
herself. She accumulated so much candy from
fellow-passengers that we had to eat a lot of it After spending some weeks with our families, it
ourselves to keep it from her. was finally time to go to Conference, and we
were sent to Dellrose. I was ordained Elder at
We were amazed at the size of the Congo river. this conference in 1933. We knew something
There were so many islands, and it was miles of Dellrose from my boyhood days, and really
wide in many places. It was good to see some enjoyed our stay there, even though the salary
of the mission stations en route to Kinshasa. was very low, and we were starting out again in
We were able to buy a few pieces of ebony the conference. Jeanette was small while we
wood, and other trinkets. I think that most of were at Dellrose, and we thought that it would
them are scattered about these days, until we be a good thing for her to have a dog, so when
have only a small piece of it. On the one of the members offered us a Collie or
24
Shepherd puppy, I took it home to her. It was a we had been so careful with her. The doctor at
beautiful animal, and she enjoyed playing with Fayetteville was able to treat and cure her after
him. We could not break him of the habit of some days. I developed a back trouble while
running after cars that passed on the road in cutting the high weeds off the church yard. No
front of the house. One day he was hit by a car one else would volunteer for the job. I wanted
that never stopped and we had to kill him, for them to do something about the water that got
he had many broken bones. Jeanette was into the basement, but no one was interested
heartbroken for a while, and when we moved to beyond keeping it out of the furnace. Audie
Adams got her another dog. Ross usually took care of the furnace. He could
make it do, when no one else could. Mrs.
There were two charges in the Tennessee George played the piano, and sang in a certain
Conference where Dad served where I served-- way which was not pleasing. She did not
Dellrose and Cumberland City. Marsh also appreciate you calling for another person to
served at Dellrose and at Bethlehem, where we play, even though she might be late a bit. I
lived when we were both very small. It is a suppose that the Sherrill family were among the
rather difficult thing for people who have largest contributors, but one could not count on
known the father to keep from considering the any extra. We bought our first radio there. It
son still a boy even though he is a minister in went out on us, and could never be fixed. We
his own right. Such was true especially at had gotten it second hand from Dorvall Jean.
Cumberland City, our first charge, but we The Stone family was one that we could count
found a bit of it at Dellrose, however not so on too.
much.
I somehow developed an ear infection while at
There were three churches on the Dellrose Dellrose, and the ear drum was perforated.
charge. Dellrose, Bee Springs Memorial at The local doctor didn't help much, so a
Bryson, and Shiloh, on the road toward specialist in Fayetteville finally healed it. I
Fayetteville. The easiest one to serve was Bee went to a doctor there for my back--a
Springs Memorial, for the people were better Chiropractor, but he didn't help much. I even
educated, had better material resources, and bought special shoes. I think, the light of
were different in their background. The folk, experiences later, that it was a slipped disc.
with few exceptions, at Shiloh, were good Lumbago isn't a disease to make one rejoice,
country people, but mostly poor folk, and especially when it hits you all of a sudden.
without much education. The ones at Dellrose
were "sot in their ways" and not about to make I helped in a meeting at Blanche, not too far
any changes for a boy preacher. They even from Shiloh. I ate fried chicken 45 meals
accused us of having bossed the African people, straight, and still like it. Once, my white linen
and of trying the same stunt on them. There pants split while I was at the church, so I had to
were, of course, some real good folk there. It be careful getting onto the rostrum and off and
was during the depression and money was away to keep people from noticing it too much.
about the last thing one was able to get hold of. Mother told Mildred that she wouldn't wash
We used up what little savings that we had, to and iron such a suit.
get reestablished. We had to start from
scratch, buying a bed, refrigerator, and some Sometimes, we lacked the funds to buy postage
other things. Just why the Methodist system stamps, and walked a bit in visitation. We were
thinks that a missionary who has returned to able to have a cow, and chickens, so had plenty
his home conference has to start at the bottom of fresh eggs, milk and butter. We also had a
again, I will never understand, but it is true. good garden, and enjoyed the many fresh
vegetables. People were very kind to us, travel
Jeanette picked up Trench Mouth or something wasn't too difficult, and though we saw Hoover
akin to it, while we were there at Dellrose, and buggies (model T's that had been cut in two and
25
shafts inserted for a horse to pull) and heard icy, I thought a bit differently. Folks at both
much of hardships, I daresay we did not suffer churches were very friendly, and knew how to
too much. We had the experience of following treat a pastor and his family.
a pastor who was slow paying his bills, so had
to wrestle with the iceman and the electricity The parsonage was a big ramshackle house,
people before we could have either ice or very hard to heat in winter. The parsonage was
electricity. We managed to convince them that a big old house, and impossible to heat in the
our bills would be paid on time. In time we winter months. We lived on one side of the
bought a small TVA model electric refrigerator, house and had a big coal heater in the living
so the ice man no longer had to come. We even room, and a grate fire in the other. We had
managed to have the Board of Stewards over swapped our old Chevrolet for a Plymouth,
for a dinner and meeting. I mean all of the after we moved to Adams, for we felt that we
stewards of the whole charge. Churches were needed a car we could depend on. Mr. Glover,
Dellrose, Shiloh, and Bee Springs. It was an to whom a good many preachers went for cars
easy charge to serve, so far as travel was gave us a good deal, and we were quite happy
concerned, however they didn't have much to have the Plymouth. We were too poor while
money and thought if they paid the salary they at Dellrose to buy gas for visitation, and
were doing well. They left it to the preacher to walked a good bit, especially around Dellrose
get the money for benevolences as they were itself. We didn't have much of a garden. It was
called. I tied a chicken coop on the back of the a dry year, and we were not at home enough to
car, and collected hens for sale to raise some of do much.
the funds. Some gave their Sunday Eggs for
the project. Part of the time, we had to depend for water
upon the town well, for the cistern was low.
One of the men of the church at Dellrose One of the projects I undertook was to secure a
became very angry with me when I suggested lot of piping (second-hand) and a pump for the
that he could give some cow feed in place of deep well that was there, but not used. The
money. He let me know that he would give if water was diagnosed as almost pure. Our first
he wanted to, and would choose whether money attempt showed that we did not get the piping
or otherwise. He was a nut and cared very little low enough in the well, for when we added
for the church. Another, at Shiloh, got angry another twenty feet, we had sufficient water. It
with Marsh who had served there and came to was quite a job, and I did most of the work
church only occasionally. He refused to take myself.
any active part or contribute to amount to
anything. I found the people at Bee Springs to It got down to ten below zero, and our water
be the best of the lot. They were so kind, and pipes froze. I had to carry water from the town
hospitable, appreciative of one's efforts, and pump, when the cistern ran dry, so decided to
with some vision. see if there was not something I could do about
the well that was on the place. I managed to
We served there for two years and then moved collect enough pipe, and get an electric pump
to Adams, where Anne was born, on January from Gil--a used one, and we soon had water,
17, 1936. This was a charge of two churches, however as the summer was dry, I had to add
and the easiest to serve that I had in my years of another 20 feet of pipe. We had plenty of water
active ministry. The churches were about four after we did that. I had it tested in Nashville,
miles apart. When we moved to Adams, we had and they rated it pure. The well was originally
only two churches, and they were just four 150 feet deep we were told. The water was icy
miles apart. Adams was where the parsonage cold. Once when Henry Atkins was helping us
was situated, while Sadlers was on the road to in a meeting, we would pump the long hose
Guthrie. It was an easy charge to serve, pipe full of water, and let it rest in the sun by
although when it got cold, and the roads were day, so that he could have a shower at night
26
after preaching. It was good and hot, at first, to return to Congo could not be turned down.
then got colder and colder. Once while Henry
was showering, I slipped out and turned on the We were asked to return to Congo to more or
water full force, so that the cold water came less take the place of a fellow-missionary who
quickly. You could almost hear Henry yelling had gotten into trouble of a nature that was best
all over town. to return him to the states. When we left New
York in November on our way to Congo for the
Anne was born at Adams on January 17, 1936, second time we had two children, and the sea
and during the real cold spell we were having. was rough. We were flooded once by the sea
She cried a lot with what some thought was water which got into our porthole. We reached
colic, but it was because she was cold. She has Antwerp, and were met by the Belgian Pastor.
suffered from cold weather ever since. She was That winter was a rough one. I had intestinal
a big baby, and Mildred's bag of water flu while at the pension with the Savels.
ruptured before she came and scared the wits
out of me. I ran for the neighbor, and we put The Board gave us a three months stay in
the doctor on stand by. The D. D. had given us Belgium to learn French, as if a person could
a small bottle of whiskey to make a toddy for learn French in that time. We set sail for
her colic. We gave her some, but it wasn't a Congo, going to Brussels for our study, and
help for she was cold, and O.K. when she could arrived in Antwerp on Thanksgiving evening.
get in bed with her mother to keep warm. We were met at the boat by one of the Belgian
pastors, and taken to his home in Molenbook.
We managed to find a Jersey cow, named It was very cold, and I remember that we asked
"Beauty", and she was a picture, and her milk for a gas fire, which would naturally cost
was as rich as she looked. She was gentle, and something. The room where we stayed was
often wanted to play. On one occasion she took enormous, and we kept the fire going for 48
the handkerchief from my back pocket. We did hours before we even turned it down a bit.
have a beautiful Jersey cow. She was small, Jeanette and Anne were small, and we could not
and her name was Beauty. She was a fine risk their taking pneumonia. We spent several
milker, and we enjoyed the milk and butter. days there, and then found a boarding house or
She was playful enough to reach back in my "pension" with the Savels family. They had
hind pocket and pull out my handkerchief. I been missionaries in Congo. At one time he
was sorry that when she was with calf, was the Father Superior of the Catholic Mission
something happened to her bag and teats. I at Lusambo.
should have called a vet, for she needed some
attention and I fear she was not so good after Mrs. Savels was a very nice woman, while he
that. We had to sell her when we left Adams in was a bit brusque in manner. They had two
late October, when we decided to come back to sons. When Mr. Savels gave thanks at the
Congo. We often wished for all her good milk. table, he did so with his eyes open. Jeanette
couldn't understand this. The Savels kept a
We had Rhode Island Hens, and they did lay, "Pension", or boarding house, and there were
even in winter, when we had to run out and several missionaries staying with them. They
collect the eggs before they froze, for our winter served good meals, and the only thing that we
there was bitterly cold. The day Anne was suffered from was the cold. The doors were so
born, a bucket of drinking water on the placed that the wind would whistle up a storm
mantlepiece about the grate froze, and there was underneath them, and we had to go to bed at
a fire going. We had a large stove for the living night to keep our feet warm. The heat was
room. It was a fruitful year, and I profited never allowed to get beyond somewhere in the
much by it. I have always wondered where I sixties. One took a bath about once a week. I
would be today had we stayed at Adams and in had intestinal flu, and was sick for some days.
the Tennessee Conference. But, an opportunity The weather was miserable. We didn't get too
27
much French, for the verb was stressed by my man, and "Gene" was a fine musician. It was
teacher more than anything else. I can still hear too bad that he was a homo-sexualist, and had
him saying, "The verb is the soul of the to leave for the good of the work. He taught for
language." We stayed in Brussels until April, if many years at Appalachian Teachers College at
I remember correctly. It was hard to find even Boone, N. C. The trouble that our colleague
a little sunshine in which to take the children had evidently had something to do with
walking from day to day, for the weather was homosexuality. We didn't know enough about it
very fickle. to recognize it, and were told very little by our
other colleagues. From what the Africans told
Dorothy Rees was there at the same time, so we us, we judged it to be this kind of thing. We
set sail from Antwerp for the Congo along with were occupied mostly with school affairs
Dorothy. We were glad to be off to Congo in during those days, and knowing little about
the early Spring--in April, I think. Dorothy things (African educational affairs) had to pay
Rees was on her way back too, so we travelled close attention to things.
with her. On board our ship was a Dutchman,
who attached himself to us at the same table. He We were in charge of the Mission (school) Boys
was always doing something to embarrass Dot. or the boys who boarded in the dormitories, the
One day he came to lunch in shorts and just his buying of food, the teaching of Agriculture,
shirt. The steward sent him back to the cabin to making brick, carpentry and a host of other
get his "jacket." It really riled him, for he things. One of the many things one had to
looked at the Belgian ladies who were in their check daily with the students was itch (similar
tropical shorts, and halters, and asked "what to scabies), and jiggers (a very tiny flea-like
about them--am I not dressed as fitting as they insect which bores under the skin causing
are?" painful sores). I usually let the teachers get out
the jiggers. They usually had the students who
I believe we made the voyage to Lobito, and had them wash their feet, and if they spotted
from thence to Elizabethville, and on to jiggers, they scrubbed the soles of the feet with
Luluabourg from there. When we arrived in brickbats until a lot of the hard sole was gone,
Luluabourg, we could find no room at the hotel, then they could get out the little critters. I
so were forced to hire a truck to take us and our usually was able to get sulphur powder, and
baggage to Mutoto, the Presbyterian station. plenty of palm oil, and then secure a bit of
We found Luluabourg in 1937 to be only a Carbolic Acid from the hospital, then mix it all
small country town with a few stores and a up together, and it did wonders for the itch. I
hotel, post office and railway station--little also. kept long swabs to use on their heads and
What a different place is this same town, now bodies, and they were usually greased up well
called Kananga, with 450,000 people living before they got out of the office.
there. What a dirty trip it was then to ride a
train, with dust and sparks from the wood In our work at Wembo Nyama, we learned to
burning locomotive blowing in the windows make and burn brick, and to give some
which had to be left partially open for air. instruction in gardening. We were able to burn
Later, Congo had air conditioned trains. a pretty fair kiln of bricks which the boys made
with boxes, and we built a dormitory for them.
We were to be at Wembo Nyama to work in the What they had were falling down. They still
schools, and naturally this led to all sorts of needed others. We took orders and made a lot
other jobs. It was good training for us to of stools, toys and other things for the different
become a "Jack-of-all-trades." We bought a lot families for Christmas. I also made a set of
of the things that the Bardens left for sale. wheels for a baby carriage, and attached them
From that day in 1933 until now, we have not to the hubs and spokes of the carriage, so that
seen them, although we do communicate on they worked quite well. We still have one of the
rare occasions. John was a good educational little stools that Mildred gave to her sister, and
28
she gave it back to us. We made tables and think that they appreciated my efforts, and I
chairs and some nice furniture. The found it better than being director of a primary
Agricultural class were able to harvest some school. Mildred was teaching some too, when
manioc, but that is about all for the ground was she could get away from the care of the children
very poor. We had many beautiful zinnias and and the running of the household. We both
some other flowers around the school were kept busy.
buildings.
Gene Jr. made his appearance in late 1939, so
The boys boarding department was always a now we had three children--two girls and a boy.
difficult department to run, for one had to be He developed rather slowly, and it was not until
responsible for buying grain, and meat for the we went to Lubondai to teach in the school
boys, seeing that they prepared their food, and there that goat's milk seemed to give him what
all of the other details. We hope that we were was needed to help him come out. The war had
able to teach them some things. Our started in Europe, and some supplies were cut
outstanding failure was to show them how to short, but we managed to get along. During the
make corn hominy and to prepare it for eating. war, which broke out while we were at Wembo
We made it all right, but when it came to their Nyama, I had been keeping up with things on
liking it, they just didn't because it was the radio. I listened to some of the news
something new and they were not accustomed programs in French as well as English. I heard
to it. I suppose that the old dormitory that we the announcement of the attack on Pearl
built of brick which we built is still standing. Harbor, and I was probably the first one to
hear the news. It was told very quickly. We
They say that either I or Inman Townsley were were on a limited rationing plan. Gas was
the ones who fired or dismissed Patrice scarce, but kerosene seemed plentiful. Some
Lumumba from the school, because of his groceries were scarce, but we made out fine.
misdoings. We never thought him fit for a
Prime Minister. We planned our furlough, but nothing came of
it because of the war. In the summer of 1942,
We stayed at Wembo Nyama long enough for at the Annual Conference at Wembo Nyama,
me to finally become Director of the Monitor's someone was asked to volunteer their services
School. I finally became the Director of the to go teach at Lubondai at Central School for
Monitors' School, where we trained the Missionaries' Children. Dr. and Mrs. Lewis
teachers for the Mission schools. With the help volunteered, but were rejected, for he was
of an Otetela, we worked out several new needed as a doctor. Mildred and I volunteered
courses. I still have a copy of the small book and were accepted. It was quite a change for
on the "Beginnings of Things". us to take the family to Lubondai, and begin
actual classroom work, but we managed.
I, who knew nothing of educational policies,
had now become head of a school for the We volunteered to go to the school for
training of teachers. We managed to get some missionaries' children in 1942, I believe it was,
things done, like translation of a course in for the Presbyterians were having a hard time
history, telling of the beginnings of things. I getting teachers out. We knew that it was only
always thought that this course was badly temporary, and so we were prepared for several
needed, for the Africans needed to understand months of hard work. Mildred had charge of
from whence had come some things--our the kitchen, and we had classes in Latin,
culture was different from theirs, and there were French, European History, Bible and
many things that must have been a puzzle to Geography etc. We were there from August to
them, just as many things in their culture were a December.
puzzle to us. We also gave them a start in
agriculture, carpentry, and other matters. I I had to study as hard or harder than the ones
29
that I taught. I hope that I did a good job. would wait on a boat. We needed dental, eye
Mildred was matron of the Dining Room, and and other health care by this time, for we had
did some teaching, and taught Anne and Gene been in Congo since early 1937. We contacted
Jr. Latin was a particularly hard subject to get Cooks (travel agent) in Capetown, had some
into once again, but I enjoyed it more than most dental work done, and waited for a boat. We
else. I also taught Geography and Bible to the hardly knew what to prepare for on the journey,
children in Grammar School. Ginny Anne but made it fine. Since we were at the Avalon
King had one stock answer for the products of Hotel, we were constantly on the search for
agricultural countries: Corn, wheat etc. The another place where it was cheaper, but were
Bible textbook was something beyond my never able to find anything satisfactory for our
comprehension, so I appealed to one of the needs.
trustees of the school, and he told me to teach
what I wanted to teach. The textbook was filled We could not find a very good place to live, and
with the theology of the Rapture and many so had to go to the Avalon Hotel, located close
other strange doctrines which I could not to the foot of Table Mountain. It was in a very
accept, and found rather repulsive. European pretty part of the city. We tried to fan out from
History was a subject to which I had had little the city and see if we could find a cheaper
exposure, so I had to study it very much before place to board, but there seemed to be nothing
teaching it. for there were many others in the same boat.
The Avalon, although with a high rating, was a
We enjoyed this new experience, and I had to rather second class facility. There were bed-
study harder than the children, for a lot of the bugs galore, and we were accused of bringing
subject material was new, or it had been many them from Congo. The meals were only fair,
years since I had studied it. Lorena Kelly for South Africa was doing all it could for the
followed us, in January and we moved to war. Pumpkin, and no white bread save on
Minga. We were supposed to be going home Easter Day was the style of life there. We had
on furlough but our term of service lasted from a good time, seeing some excellent movies,
1937-1944. Lorena Kelly had agreed to go to visiting various parks, and other parts of the
Lubondai to take our places for the second country near Capetown. We also went
term. The reason that we were helping out was swimming in the Indian Ocean, and got very
that during the war, it was practically sunburned. When we tried the Atlantic Ocean,
impossible for the Presbyterians to send out with our friends the Molyneux, we found it too
teachers. We then went to Minga to spend cold--just like ice water. The Moyes from
another year and a month or so in doing most Lusambo were there, and a hosts of
everything that needed to be done there. Presbyterians. The McKinnons of the A.P.C.M.
were there too, and others. They soon returned
We had been scheduled to travel home on home, or back to the field.
furlough from Durban, but the ship was sunk by
a German torpedo and that settled all Most every day, we checked with Cooks' hoping
possibilities for one to travel for that time. to find passage home, but nothing was offered
When it seemed that the war would continue on until June, and then it was a coastal steamer
until no one knew the end, we asked the Bishop from Argentina. We had spent all our funds
to let us try going home by way of Capetown. and had to ask the Board for more to pay our
He agreed, and so we left Minga in February passage home. Gene Jr. found the escalators
1944 to go to Luluabourg to take the train to very interesting, and the stores were
Capetown in South Africa. Dr. Hughlett took interesting.
us to the station in his panel body car. In the
early months of 1944, we left Minga to go to The trouble about finding a boat there was, that
Capetown, at the recommendation of the they would carry men, but not women and
Executive Committee and the Bishop, where we children. Finally after a wait of four and a half
30
months, we found an Argentine Coastal Florida by way of Salta, Lima, Panama City,
steamer, and set sail on her for Buenos Aires. and over Cuba, and on to Miami. What a trip,
What a voyage. We were all seasick for days, and what sights awaited us.
and poor Jeanette was sicker than all the rest.
We finally got her up before the twenty day We were sent to a large hotel in the heart of the
voyage ended, but she was weak and listless. city, and found it very comfortable, save for the
We had on board the ship several of the cool nights and mornings. We bought a small
A.P.C.M. (Presbyterian missionary) families electric heater for warmth, for the steam heat
who helped us a lot. came on only a few hours per day. Oranges
and apples were very cheap--one could buy a
The voyage to Buenos Aires was indeed a dozen of these fruits for a quarter. The steaks
rough one. We took some seasickness pills at the hotel were very thick, and very tasty. The
before leaving the harbor at Capetown, but not children were sick with colds, and one or more
soon enough to prevent the Cape Rollers from of them had bronchitis and laryngitis, so we
turning our tummies all upside down. We had found the one North American doctor in the city
plenty of food, the cabins were all right, but we and got him to treat the children. We arrived
were all seasick, and poor Jeanette was sick on Saturday, and we went to church at the
most of the twenty days it took to get across the American Protestant church. We were a bit
Atlantic in the winter time at that. She lost late at the service, for we stopped at the Air
pounds. We were helpless to attend her, and office to see if we could get reservations to the
had to depend on the folk in the cabin where states on Pan-Am-Grace airlines. We were
she was to look after her. We were so sick that able to get them for the next Sunday.
finally when one of the A.P.C.M. missionaries--
Earl King, Sr. suggested it, we tried a little It was now a question of getting the children
Brandy, but it was worse than the seasickness, cleared by the health officials, and this we were
so we tried no more of it. The smell of the food able to do--just barely. At the last moment
from the dining room made us sick. It was before business closed for the week-end, we
close by, and the sea was too rough to try to found out that we might have to divide up along
open the porthole to amount to anything. I am the way, so were advised to get two passports.
sure the room or cabin smelled, for we were One for Mildred and two children and one for
told by the Kings that it did. There was little me and the other child. We rushed around like
that we could do to avoid it. mad to get this done. It looked hopeless for a
while, for the pictures had to be made, but
Toward the end of the voyage, we did manage finally the Consul signed the passports before
to get up, and got Jeanette out on deck a bit. they were filled out, and we had to dash by taxi
There were rumors that the Germans were to the Panamanian Consul's office after he had
following us with a submarine, and we would closed to get our visa, for going through
not know when they might show up to check for Panama. We finally got it all done, and were
Americans on board. Nothing came of this. able to make it to the airport on Sunday
We were all happy to finally arrive in the Port morning, a week from our arrival. The plane
of Buenos Aires. We had to go through took off, but had to return a few moments later
customs, and it was a rigid inspection. We left to fix something about the oil pressure. We
most of our baggage at the port facilities finally took off and soon landed at Salta, then
because of the "Red Tape", and the agents Antefagusta, and there spent the night, if I
acting for us finally got everything settled. remember correctly. We went from there to
Lima, where we spent the night, and from there
We all finally arrived in Buenos Aires. The to some place in Colombia, and then on to
children had bronchitis and deep colds, but we Panama.
finally got cleared by a North American doctor
just before we were to fly out for Miami, Flying over the Andes was quite an experience.
31
None of us had flown before this trip, and we We arrived home in late August, I believe, and
filled our eyes with the ice and snow all below enrolled for some classes at Scarritt. We were
us. We finally had to suck oxygen to feel well. able to get an apartment in the upper floor of a
Gene Jr. didn't want to do so, but was finally big yellow house belonging to Peabody
persuaded to do so. When we got to Panama, College. We settled down at Peabody in an
the electric eye doors caused a lot of upstairs apartment of a big yellow house, on
amusement on the part of the family for none the hill, the only place close around. It was on
had even seen one before. While we were in the third floor. Someone gave us a Manx cat,
Lima, we had a chance to visit the Cathedral, and he was a fighter. In spite of the heat, we
and marveled at the beauty of many things seen survived. I had the Mumps, and the cat jumped
there, but were also impressed by the poverty in the big electric fan we had in the third story
seen. The flight over the city in the early hours window. He was knocked out, but soon came
of the morning was a glorious sight. The to, with a cut on his nose, and as mean as ever.
sunrise was magnificent. The children went to school at Peabody
Demonstration School, and we felt that we were
When we flew over Panama, blinds were put fortunate to be able to get them enrolled there. I
over the windows of the plane for this was am sure, from what they said later that they felt
prohibited territory, and one was forbidden to somewhat not clothed as well as some of the
see anything of the defenses of the country. We others, and that there was a big difference in the
flew over Cuba on our way to Miami, and scale of living of the families but somehow they
landed there in the late afternoon, I believe. didn't say much about it at that time. The Board
We sent a telegram to Violet Hughlett asking if did want to know why we did not put them in a
it would be convenient to stop off and visit her public school. There just were none within
and the children at Cocoa, Florida. She easy walking distance, and I was away on trips
replied that she would be standing on the so much.
platform of the station, and we were to watch
for her. It seems that there was some question We managed to get everything squared away
as to whether or not she would be home, for if for our return to Congo during the late summer,
we saw her we would know to get off. The air and faced the question of returning with or
conditioner in our car had gone off and we had without a car. We had a second hand
to move forward to another car, so when we Plymouth, and finally drove in it to New York
arrived at Cocoa, Violet was there and we had and had it boxed for shipment. They stole some
to rush like mad to collect our baggage and get of the tires off it before it left New York. We
off, before the train left the station. We made it had to sail for Lisbon, Portugal in 1945 because
by the skin of our teeth. the war was not over in Europe, and so had to
go on a neutral ship. The tail end of a storm
We enjoyed the visit very much. Doctor was in (hurricane) caught us some days out, and the
the process of trying to get back to Congo, and old ship was turned here and there, and almost
had already left. The mosquitoes attacked us capsized. Our baggage was shifting around
on the street even at 9 A.M. It was hot, and from one end of the cabins to the other. The
after a day or so with the Hughletts, we set out Hughletts were with us on that voyage. Dr. had
for Nashville. At the last minute we were able already gone out, while Violet and the children
to get a drawing room on the train for sleeping, stayed home. We also had some of the
but told that we would have to be out of it in the A.P.C.M. missionaries with us. We all found
early morning, before getting to Atlanta. We places to stay in Lisbon.
made it. What impressed us was the crowds on
the train, and the surliness of the conductors. While we were in Lisbon, I preached one time
They were harassed by so many passengers in an English speaking service. I think possibly
demanding so many things, I suppose. that I had an interpreter. We visited many of
the Catholic Cathedrals, observed the dinginess
32
of parts of the city, went to some of the Sunday Continent." When we were shown our cabins,
afternoon meetings of the Protestant groups, we found that the family was all divided. The
and spent one day at one of their famous beds were very hard and the pillows worse.
beaches. We also took a trip to one of the The children below six were supposed to sleep
cities, near the Spanish borders. There were with their mothers. I had a cabin along with
many points of interest. We enjoyed being in Bill Worth with several Portuguese men.
the same apartment with the Hughletts. It was Mildred had one with the children. Some
good to have Violet in on our activities, and the missionary ladies and their children were in the
children enjoyed being with the three Hughlett same cabin.
children.
The third class portion of the ship was filled
We were impressed that the Bank where we with people of the peasant class of people, and
sometimes got our checks cashed had the name, down in the hold there were others. When they
"Bank of the Holy Spirit." We had been got seasick, they upchucked right where they
warned that we might pick up fleas in church or were, and the rats were all over the ship. One
on the street cars, and I suspect that we did on ate a special melon Bill Worth had under his
occasions. Mr. Grancha did a good job bunk, and then came and crawled over my face.
feeding us, but some of the food was highly I slapped him off with my hand, but such was
seasoned with too much olive oil. He did give our life on that voyage. Mildred had one crawl
us liberty to ask for changes when we didn't like through her hair, for she was sleeping on the
some of the foods. The Hartzlers were in floor on a rubber air mattress. I finally bribed
Lisbon studying Portuguese, and we also took a the steward to get her a mattress. We had been
few lessons in it. It seemed hard. The forbidden to complain. It was a ship packed
Hartzlers were preparing for work in Angola. with people like sardines. We ate in the second
class dining room, and were served with
We tried by every means to find some way to octopus, and other delicacies which the
get on back to Congo, but there were no planes Portuguese liked. We had for breakfast, black
going direct. One line did go to Liberia, but to coffee, rolls, and fish cut up in rice. We had
find the connections from there were difficult. purchased some jam on the way down, and had
Finally, when we had been there many weeks-- milk for the children.
6 in all--we managed to get third class on a
Portuguese steamer for Lobito. Some of the They denied us the use of the lounge, so we had
A.P.C.M. (missionaries) did give a bribe and a rear deck, where we had prayer meeting, and
got second class accommodations, but we school for the children who would be late for
refused to do this. It was really a rough way to Lubondai. We made out, but it was trying, and
travel, as we were to learn in the following we were not the only ones who were tried.
days. Roseva Loring, the principal of the school at
Lubondai had a cabin with Portuguese women,
We were with the Graneia family in a new and their husbands used to come busting into
apartment. Portugal impressed us as a not very the cabin to shave, for they had no mirrors
clean place. There were fleas on the street cars down below, and poor Roseva who wasn't used
and in the churches. The Hartzlers were to all this often said that, "I could bite nails in
studying there in Lisbon preparatory to work in two this morning." The worst was to come.
Angola. They were not able to return to the
Congo for some reason or other. When we came to the town next to Lobito, they
coaled the ship. There was the dumping of the
We spent six weeks in Lisbon before we were coal on the deck, and then it was shoveled into
successful in obtaining passage to Lobito. We the chutes. Coal dust was all over the ship--we
had to take third class passage, and found things had it in our hair, in our food and in our beds. It
pretty rough, on our voyage back to "the Dark was an experience that no one would want to
33
experience twice. We left the ship and strolled was the District Superintendent, and for some
around the city, visited a while at the mission of the time worked with Mildred in the
station there (Methodist), and even after the day overseeing of the Regional Schools. Doubtless,
spent away from our quarters on the ship came I was engaged in Industrial work, and if I
back to it with the "coaling" still going on. It remember had charge of the Transport
was good that we arrived at Lobito within a day Department for some time.
or so, for this gave us a chance to clean up by
bathing, swimming in the sea and washing our When we received notice that our Plymouth had
clothes at the hotel. We were soon ready for arrived at Lusambo, I went down for it, and was
the next stage of the trip--several days train ride telling Mr. Moyes about the tires and other
through Angola and on up into Central Congo. features of it. He said, "When I took it out of
It was a long hard journey. We carried some the box it had some rather sorry looking tires on
food along for the children, but the dining car it, and it was with difficulty that I managed to
service was not too bad, considering all things. get enough air in the tires to drive it home."
The ride was a hot and dusty one, for it was the Sure enough, our $160 box had not protected it
dry season. too well, for they had stolen the tires (some of
them) and put at least a couple of junk-heap
Dr. Hughlett met his family at the Angola ones on it, with big truck tubes that had
border, I believe. We were all glad to see him, multiple patches on them. Fortunately, I was
and especially his own family. He had carried able to buy new synthetic tires and tubes, but in
us to Luluabourg when we left for furlough, those early days of such tires, the tubes were
and now we were to be together again. We had almost worthless. I had hardly gone 20 miles
to go through customs at a point on the when I was out working on them, and soon they
Congo-Angola border, and the authorities were had many patches. We used that Plymouth all
inclined to deal very lightly with us in customs that term, and finally sold it at the close of the
until Dr. Hughlett rather insisted that they see new term, in 1949 to a chief. I had put a new
everything, and so stirred up their curiosity as to engine in it, for the old one had worn out the
what we might have. Then we had to open bearings, and the crankshaft must have been
most everything. Some of the folk were rather worn out of round. The chief had little service
provoked with the whole thing, and wished that from it, for he knew nothing of caring for a car.
Dr. had kept his mouth shut. I got less for the whole car than I had paid for
the replacement motor.
We finally came to Jadotville, now called Panda
Likasi, where we stayed at the hotel until the Bishop Booth gave us permission to come
train for Luluabourg, now called Kananga, was home a year early, for Jeanette was ready for
made up in Elizabethville, now called College. We located at Scarritt, and Jeanette
Lubumbashi. I forgot to say what a refreshing went to Martin at Pulaski. She was not too
thing it was to see the Hughlett family reunited happy there, because they did not offer French,
after having been separated for more than two and she was going through the process of
years. We were happy for them. adjusting to American life. We lived in one of
the Scarritt cottages, and it was a dark, dirty old
When we arrived at Kananga, we got the place, with the furnace making a lot of fuss at
children off to Lubondai where their school was night.
located with all haste, for they were already
late. Remember Roseva Loring, the principal During the course of the year, the children were
was with us, so it was not too bad. I do not at Peabody Demonstration school, and Mildred
recall who came for us to get us to our at Scarritt. I was on the road a lot and so can't
respective places of work. This all happened in remember too much of our life from day to day.
the year 1945. If I recall correctly, we were While we were home that year, Mildred had an
assigned to work at Wembo Nyama, where I operation at Vanderbilt that incapacitated her
34
for some weeks. She had a hysterectomy. I the time, for the Maws were gone, so Transport
remember trying to do some cooking during and Industrial work was ours and most
that period, and the children didn't starve. everything except Medical work was ours. I
believe that there were single ladies on the
On one occasion, Jeanette brought home with station part of the time to care for the work with
her, her new boy friend and we were rather the Girls.
pushed to entertain him, for he had to sleep in
the room with me. Martin College wouldn't We particularly enjoyed the Sapys, a Hungarian
even skip the extra charge because we were not couple who came out to do Medical work. Dr.
able to pay the school fees at one time. Money Sapy was a hunter of note, and so we had
matters were really tight, and we just had to do buffalo meat a good many times. I used to take
without a lot of things we would have liked. I him out to hunt while I visited churches in the
remember having to go to the bank to borrow district, and having bought a pick-up from the
the money for the hospital fees, for in those ladies at Tunda, was able to haul it in to the
days one had to pay it and then get reimbursed station. I shall never forget the time he went
by the Board. On one occasion I had to borrow out for hippo. He killed two or three and came
the money from mother to have Christmas for back home in his car. He told me that if I
the children. The bank from which I borrowed would go for the meat I could sell it to the
money required that Mildred sign the note. He Africans. I went, and finally got a part of the
(the banker) didn't ask for collateral, and said hippo in the pick-up, and arrived home about 2
that he trusted my honest face. That made me P.M. It was Sunday. The meat was "High" and
feel good, for evidently some the loan so rather than have it wait over till Monday, we
companies didn't think that I had too honest a told the folk to come get it while it lasted. They
looking face. I had gone to them first for a cleaned it up in short order.
loan.
We were back in Congo for the school term, There were lions of the man-eating type in the
and were assigned to Minga District as river sections of the District, so we heard lots of
Superintendent, with Mildred in charge of the tales of people being eaten. I am sure that some
schools, both Station and Rural Schools. Our of them were true. We visited Lake Makamba
term at Minga was very pleasant, and we soon several times, enjoyed the good fishing for the
became acquainted with other facets of the Tilipia, and were quite contented at Minga. I
work while there. We moved into a new home helped train Museu Emile as a Superintendent.
of native construction, which Julius Davis had I also trained others later.
gotten chief Mukundji to build. The first rain
that came soon revealed that the roof was no Once I went to some kind of meeting in the
good, for it leaked like a sieve, and had to be pick-up, and when I returned from Luluabourg
done over. We had to move all our furniture brought back a load of gas etc. There were
back against the walls to have anything dry. It some bad hills which were very sandy, and the
was hard to get boards out of Joe Maw for the tracks were covered with grass. In climbing
food magazine, and so we were able to change one the car struck a chuck-hole that broke the
the house as we saw fit only after Joe had left welding holding the spring seat. I felt that
for furlough. We saw that the kitchen in the something was wrong, but it was night and so I
house itself wouldn't work. It was not safe, so went on to the top of the hill. I stopped, but
an outside one was built, with the food could spot nothing in the darkness, but had
storeroom attached. This gave us some porch hardly passed a small commercial center when
room, and a place for our light plant, and later the car stopped, with the engine still running,
for the motor which lighted the church. The and soon I saw the entire drive shaft roll out
water at Minga was good, and did not have to from underneath the car to the side of the road.
be boiled for drinking. This was in 1950. We What had happened was that the axle had
had the whole gamut of the work there part of moved back and forth with the seat broken until
35
the Universal Joint had broken. I had no food, from the almost complete oral usage of the
and no bed, so went back to the magazine language. When June 1955 came, we left for
(store) borrowed a blanket, and slept in an furlough, and lived at Cookeville where
empty house, after sending a bicycle man to everyone was in school but me. We went to an
Mildred asking that she get Joe Maw to come Ecumenical Conference on Missions at Bossy,
for me. I had to wait most of the next day Switzerland, and spent two weeks at the end of
before they arrived. the Lake in a rural village called Bouveret, and
about a week at the Bible School in the city of
About a week later, I took the whole rear axle Geneva. These were happy times and relaxing
in the back seat of our car, and had to go all the ones after a busy term.
way to Luluabourg to get the spring base or
support welded on. I took along one of the In 1955, we left for furlough, and after we went
chauffeurs, and when we had gotten back, and back to the field were sent to Tunda Station,
attached the axle, we came on home. I suppose which was our first home in Congo. We
that thereafter I tried to hit the holes a bit more arrived in 1956, and I believe that Gene Jr.,
carefully. I remember one other repair job that graduated from Lubondai in 1958. He really
the truck required--that of replacing a bad rear enjoyed the hunting at Tunda, having carried
axle bearing. Fortunately I found one as I back to the field a .22 rifle, which we had
passed by Lubefu, and was able to use it. We gotten him while we were living at Cookeville.
sold that old pick-up for about what we had When we arrived home in 1955, Anne was at
paid for it, and had a few years of usage. Of T.P.I. in Cookeville, and helped us find a house
course, I imagine I had to replace some of the on the outskirts of town. She wanted to live at
tires. home with us, and we found the house a little
too far from the college, so we searched for
Anne was next to go home to enter college, and another one. Anne and Allison soon found a
so we had one lone "chick" left. Anne house that belonged to Mrs. Johnson which was
graduated at Lubondai from High School, and for rent. College students had been living in it,
so Gene Jr. was the only one left. While at so it required a bit of cleaning. Too, it had a
Minga, I worked hard to keep the Transport coal furnace and there were stacks of ashes and
trucks going, and helped keep the work going. clinkers in the basement, in addition to stacks of
Mildred was busy with school, and with work old magazines and newspapers. During the
with the girls and women. Neither of us course of the year we got rid of both. Water ran
realized quite the discipline problem of the through the basement in a small stream all the
Girls' Home until we had to do some of it. We time, for the house was in a low place. We
did some building, and did a lot of visitation of soon had it liveable, and soon I was the only
the district. Papa Lunumbi, Museu Kasongo, one at home in the mornings, for Gene Jr. was
and others served with me on the District, and I in High School, Anne and Mildred in College.
helped train some of the men for the job. I was away a great deal of the time on
itineration for the Board. It was a joy to have
I think Gene Jr. really enjoyed his years at Anne home with us for that year.
Minga and at Tunda, for he was more free to
play with the Congolese than his sisters had We especially enjoyed the church at
been, and being a boy, he learned a lot from the Cookeville. Bro. Bruce Strother was the pastor,
Africans. He was good at understanding the and we came to enjoy fellowship with the
language, and sometimes acted as interpreter Strother family. The Annual Conference met at
for us, when we were able to get out on the Cookeville that fall, and it was a time of
district during the holidays when he was home. renewing of old acquaintances. We were able
He also picked up quite a bit of Tshiluba while to secure from Mrs. Johnson a small plot for the
at Lubondai. Strange thing though, he could planting of greens which we enjoyed very
not write it--i.e. Otetela. I suppose that comes much. We rented an old piano for Anne, and
36
she was able to practice at home. We also came adolescent changes coming over our son. He
to know Allison at this time. I believe that he, had quite a siege with Measles. Richard and
Mildred and Anne were in one class together at Jeanette came to see us at Cookeville. They
the college. We liked his parents very much, were at Columbia Seminary in Decatur,
too. Georgia.

We had bought a Ford Sedan to take back to the There had come about a change in Congo. One
Congo with us. It was a good car and gave us of the things that we had to do shortly after
much good service. Anne, and Gene Jr., both reaching Tunda was to set up a pension plan for
were able to get their driver's license at the workmen, and later for the preachers and
Cookeville. I had renewed mine at Nashville, the teachers plus the people who worked around
having to take the written examination, and the the houses and elsewhere. It was a good
driving proof as well. When the policeman system, but crooked people stole most of the
came to get into the car at Cookeville with money in the mid-sixties, and as a result most
Anne, he happened to look at the license plate of the men never received a penny for their
and saw that it was New York or New Jersey, pensions. They paid so much and the people
and said that it was against the law to give a who paid them paid so much. It is a pity that all
driving test in an out-of-state car. When I told this fell into the hands of folk who either
him that I had taken mine in the same car, he neglected to send in the funds, or kept poor
still said that it was illegal, so Anne had to go records on the matter, and that the troubles that
get Allison's car for her test. When I went to came to Congo about destroyed the system. It
the courthouse for a Tennessee license, they has probably been rectified by now. Too, the
refused to sell me one on the ground that I had Africans were taking over more and more
not paid the sales tax on the car. I had gotten it responsibility, and we had to work in the
from an organization that was exempt from the background. It was difficult to train some of
sales tax. I was stumped until I happened to tell them for their jobs.
the garage man about the incident. He
immediately called the lieutenant governor of I shall never forget at least one--Shutsha Pierre.
the state who was a Cookeville man, and after a I tried to teach him to ride a motorcycle, but he
few questions as to the length of ownership of never learned to shift gears. I tried to teach him
the car, I was able to avoid paying $60 some to drive a car, but he just couldn't get the hang
odd dollars for the sales tax, and had my license of it. He was the big chief, and insisted on it.
plates. He undoubtedly was the most difficult person
with whom I had to deal in these years of
Somewhere we have an old picture of the car transition. I suppose that he felt that the
with the top carrier loaded to the hilt, and the position of responsibility gave him the position
inside so full that it was difficult for the three of of lordship. He acted that way and I can well
us to get inside--this was the day that we left imagine does today. I remember once being at
Cookeville to get ready to return to the Congo the parsonage at W. N. and seeing the water
in 1956. It had been a busy and fruitful year. It getting under the brick walls. I happened to
was a year when we had our first T.V. when suggest that he get his sons to shovel a bit of
Gene Jr. and I put up the first T.V. Antenna for dirt next to the walls, and he launched a bitter
our set, necessary for reception. It was the year attack against me for suggesting that he put his
when I tried to see that Gene Jr. took second sons to work. Once when he had bought a
year Latin by correspondence school, for he had pick-up, he wanted me to pay the mileage for
to have it for his Lubondai graduation. I found his travel over the district, and was furious
that I did most of the work, and that we made when I refused.
86 on our final. Perhaps this was good after all
the years passing when I had studied Latin. It The years of transition were not usually so hard.
was a year of trial for us in the young We were able to take the changes in good spirit,
37
and to find many Africans who made them with good to be rid of it. He bought it even though
us in the same spirit. When 1960 came, we he knew its limitations and weaknesses. We had
were planning for our furlough in June of that a trailer too, and it was a big help. Jimmy Cox
year. A new family came to the field, and I have of Cookeville sent us the money for a Chevy 3
never understood how they ever got to be ton truck, and I built the body for it. It really
missionaries. They were sent to Belgium for was a godsend to the station, and had a lot of
French study, and did very poorly, for the hard usage. The soldiers finally took it over
language came difficult to them. We had tried and ruined it, as they did all of the other
to help them before they came by suggesting vehicles of the mission.
some of the things they would need. When
they arrived, we found that they had assumed Just before we left Tunda in June 1960 for our
that they would be doing evangelistic work and regular furlough, the politicians were making
nothing more. They were emotional, and often speeches all over the country, and getting
cried real tears at their lack of ability to learn people ready for Independence. They were told
Otetela. They were missionaries whose that they would be provided for by the
theology, gained at Asbury, was almost extreme government, would take over the white man's
in its fundamentalism. Harry just couldn't do cars and houses, and would sometimes get his
much at all with his hands. He wept when I wife. The colonial government became scared,
turned over to him the work-line, saying that he in my opinion, and even sent planes to drop
would never be able to keep it going. When I leaflets saying that they were still in power and
showed him the light plant and demonstrated to remain tranquil. I really think that there was a
how to crank it off, he just didn't seem to catch good deal of panic on the part of the Belgian
the idea at all. officials, for they were too ready to give up and
clear out. A lot of the killing and riots etc.
Perhaps I was too hard on Harry, for other folk could have been prevented if they had
seemed to appreciate him, but I have yet to see maintained a strong control, but I suppose that
how the Board ever accepted him. Maybe I they were fearing for their lives, and wanting to
was wrong. He was a spiritual man, but his get out before they were murdered, and
horizons were certainly limited. He didn't even certainly the whole country was in an uproar,
want to take out social security, for he had the and Lumumba was to blame for a lot of it.
feeling that it was rather denying the power of
God to take care of him when he was old. I felt We had already gone and went to
sorry for him in that he seemed so naive. Those Oberammergau to see the Passion Play. We
were the days when the colonial government had travelled down by train, and really enjoyed
was about to topple, and when the souls of men the Play. It was a quaint little town, and I can
were tried by fire, so I may have made the remember how surprised and shocked to see
wrong judgment of the man and his family. what I thought were women carrying the
suitcases of the tourist. They were of course
We spent the term at Tunda doing most long-haired youth, some of whom had a part in
everything--preaching on the district and at the the cast. We enjoyed our stay at the little hotel,
station, building, transportation for the station, but were surprised when we had to pay for the
installing a pump to get water to the top of the coffee extra at .75 cents. The trip by train was
hill and hauling it to the station. I bought an old most interesting, and a lot of it was along the
pick-up from Wheeler, which would stall when Rhine river. We were greatly impressed with
it got hot, which was a real help at the time. I the comfort of the trains. Our tickets were good
hauled gravel, sand and other things, and even ones for the Play, and American Express had
helped the folk get some of their grain from the gotten them for us. I think they were
garden. I finally sold the thing to Luhata cancellations.
Daniel, who was begging for it. I don't think
that he ever finished paying for it, but it was We had read no news of the outside world, and
38
when we finally arrived back in Belgium, we Kolwezi, something like 100 miles away, and
were told of the terrible happening in Congo. go back and forth for this job. After staying at
We also saw while in Brussels the reaction of Kolwezi a few weeks we flew to Kanene to see
the Belgians regarding their using the army to about the possibility of getting on with the
get out those who had not been able to get out. construction of the church, and to ascertain if it
There were Demonstrations, which they called would be possible to live there. We found that
"MANIFESTATIONS", and thousands of it was possible, and after preparations regarding
people massed on the streets. Certainly there supplies etc., we decided to undertake this. The
were many killed in Congo, and many beaten old house was inhabited by bats, and had not
and tortured, and many women raped. been lived in for some 20 years. We cleaned it
and set about making it liveable. We
The new government, headed by Lumumba had constructed a water system, a bathroom, and
little power, and mob violence seemed to be the fixed a kitchen, plus the front porch surface and
order of the day. Later, when the United pillars. The field rats were bad about running
Nations saw what was happening, and Russia into the house, and coming under the front door.
was trying to gain control, they came upon the We killed twenty or more, and had lots of fun
scene, but with the type of soldiers sent, who chasing them about the house to kill them with
were more interested in looting than in keeping sticks. We had no traps or cats. The old house
the peace, there could be little doubt that Congo served us well after repairs, even though some
was in for some tough times. One has but to of the leaks could not be fixed. We even had a
read some of the books written during those fireplace, and a fire felt good at night part of the
days to catch a glimpse that Congo was headed year.
for oblivion or for take over by some strong
power. Things went to pieces, and afterwards We made a road to the good inexhaustible
one of the leaders of the country said that, "But spring, hauled rock for the foundation. Brick
for the church, there would be no Congo." which were already made were also hauled.
Things were really rough, and many innocent We searched for and found gravel, and sand for
people died. building. It was quite a job to secure workers,
but with the help of the District Superintendent,
There is no way of telling how many of the Morrison Matafawadi, who was a "peach" of a
Congolese died at the hands of their own man, we found sufficient workers to start. Our
brother Congolese. Tribal warfare was gas and cement had to be hauled from Kamina,
rampant, and the whole country was wasted and about 100 miles away, and finally we secured a
pillaged--that is all save Katanga. Tshombe beat-up 5 ton dump truck from the missionary
Moise was a strong leader, and quite early at Kolwezi. We had to have extensive repairs
during the troubles decided to declare the made on it, and that at Kitwe in Northern
independence of Katanga. Of course, he was Rhodesia, now Zambia. It was a long day's
helped and advised by many Belgians to take journey from Kanene, and required papers and
this course of action, for in Katanga's copper a lot of red-tape to get over the border between
lay much of the wealth of the country. From Congo and Rhodesia.
the first, the United Nations decided that they
would not allow the country to be split, and We had a hard time securing funds on which to
they did all they could to prevent this. live, for the mail service between Kamina and
Elizabethville (now Lubumbashi) was very
In 1961, upon our return from furlough, we erratic in those days, and had it not been for a
were asked to go to the Katanga, to an old supply of Travellers Checks which we had, we
mission station called Kanene, and our special would have starved. It was impossible to travel
job was to undertake the construction of a toward Kolwezi or E'ville part of the time. The
church, for the old one was literally falling Katangese army had a lot of road blocks to keep
down. The Bishop (Booth) wanted us to live at out the U.N., and were always suspicious of
39
anyone travelling, especially Americans. We a beautiful job, keeping meat and other things
had to get our building supplies from Kitwe, which we froze. We had a bottle gas stove for
and one always faced going over the border, cooking. Mildred had cooking classes for the
and the customs at E'ville. women of the station, and we had been able to
secure a practically new wood burning
On one occasion, I was returning home from cookstove at Kitwe for this work. They were
down country with the truck and night had thrilled with this class--making bread and
overtaken me en route home. I came to a cakes, etc. We also held Adult Education
bridge over a small stream that had been classes in one of the villages nearby.
partially stripped of its boards by another truck. Sometimes the superintendent and I went out
I stopped the truck and replaced what I thought for Sunday services. Occasionally we got as far
necessary to get across, and as I started off and away as Kamina. I was helping the folk build a
up onto the bridge I must have pulled back on church there, and succeeded in getting the
the dump lever, for I caught a glimpse of the foundation put down while at Kanene.
drum of gas just behind the cab window being Fortunately we were able to get our cement
thrown away from its place. The back gate of there, and a few other supplies for building.
the bed of the truck was tied tight, so could not Things were very scarce during those days. On
come open and spill the heavy steel bars and one occasion, we ran out of yeast for making
other things. I stopped when the bridge had bread, and I checked with the big brewery to
been crossed, and found that the body of the see if I could get some from them. They asked
truck had pulled all the boards off the bridge, for my bottle, which I did not have, and by the
and that the drum of gas was sitting beside the next time I went to town, yeast was there, so I
road, upside down. It was too heavy to try to did not get back to the brewery.
load, so I left it and went on home. Was I ever
glad to get there, and so was Mildred who had We lived at Kanene until October of 1962,
been there alone for several days. It was on when we left to go to Kitwe, where we hoped to
Saturday night that I arrived, but I went back get the mission plane for Kindu. By pressing
that Sunday morning in the Volkswagen hard, we did get the walls of the church
Kombi, and picked up the gas. finished, the stone entrance completed, the steel
windows and doors in place, and the roof put on
We found Kanene located on a hill, accessible before leaving. I still wonder if they finished it,
only after crossing a causeway, which became and whether or not glass was ever put in the
flooded in the rainy season. In fact some times windows and doors, or the cement floor poured.
one had to leave the car over at the little I always wanted a picture of the building I
settlement on the road, and wade across on foot worked so hard to construct. As I remember,
to get home. In the valley below, the soil on top we spent something like $3,000 on the building.
was a black type, and very rich. They had told I also built a small hut for the person taking
us that the spot we had fenced for a garden care of the girls of the girls home. We enjoyed
would grow nothing, but after several loads of our year at Kanene. It was very isolated, but
the black soil had been hauled and spread, it the people were friendly, and added much to
produced an abundance of good vegetables. our lives. We would have been glad to stay
We had so many beans, we gave them away. with them, but felt that we should get back to
We even had strawberries--not many but Central Congo. I worked hard in building, and
enough to enjoy. Morrison Matafwadi, the once the scaffolding gave way with me, and I
superintendent raised leeks and sold them in fell to the ground with a lintel weighing more
Kamina. than a hundred pounds, and very rough. It
bruised me considerably, knocked me out with
We had brought from Elizabethville a small a blow to the head, and scared the builders
kerosene refrigerator, and a kerosene bottle considerably. I survived, and got it (the lintel)
cooler, which we used as a freezer. It would do in place before going to the house for Mildred
40
to doctor my abrasions and bruises. My leg
was black and blue for some weeks. We took We had no radio, and often the rail line between
time for fishing once in a lake not too far away. us and the capital city was blocked, so for
I wish we had done more of it. We had plenty weeks we had no mail. We finally had to drive
of fish for eating, on that occasion. down and get some money. As I said, living in
this isolated area had its moments of tenseness,
We set out grass, planted flowers, and learned especially when the soldiers mined all of the
that cucumbers could be cooked for squash, for bridges. We were careful so had no unheard of
we had so many of them for a while. Bishop events take place.
and Mrs. Booth have a son buried at Kanene.
There was a small air strip there when we first When October came, we left, returned our 5 ton
went in, and we later enlarged it. It was soft, dump truck to Kolwezi, and went on to Kitwe.
but a fairly good strip before the Katangese Shortly after arrival there I was hospitalized for
soldiers closed it and accused us of playing hemorrhoidal operation. I had been having
along with the U.N. They were suspicious of us trouble for some years, and all of a sudden I
because we were Americans, and the U.N. was could not get the things to shrink. The
backed by America. The soldiers finally came operation was painful--rather the after-effects. I
and closed our air strip, and planted tree lived through it, and stayed in the Kitwe
branches all over it. We had enjoyed the few hospital for about a month. I was advised that I
visits we had from the plane. On one occasion, should have a prostatectomy after recuperation
Paul Alexander, the pilot brought us some from the first operation. So, a short while later I
chickens from Kapanga, or Sandoa. He had the went back into the hospital for that. The after-
six hens and a rooster in a box. Paul was effects were painful too, but I was finally able
travelling with a refugee woman, to whom he to be up and about.
couldn't talk. When the rooster let loose with a
loud crow, Paul said that he almost bailed out of We stayed in Kitwe at the rectory which we had
the plane. By the time they got to us, they had rented from missionaries of our church to use.
laid an egg or so. They were a beautiful white, We took in good shows, enjoyed the movies,
and kept us in eggs. We even sold a good many and enjoyed the respite from the isolation of
eggs to the Africans who begged for them. We living on an inland mission station. We
even raised some chickens. enjoyed the pastor and his wife, who were
Canadian missionaries. Our folk often came to
The soldiers finally came and camped at Kitwe for shopping or vacations. Once while I
Kanene, and when they demanded I take them was in the hospital one of the missionaries and
to one of the villages nearby one Sunday so that his wife were brought to those facilities. They
they could shoot down the goats and kill and their children were in a plane crash, and the
chickens without paying, I thought it time for us Enrights were banged up a bit. The children
to be questioning as to whether we would stay were O.K. Another of our Central Congo
or go to Northern Rhodesia. We consulted with missionaries was there for a broken hip. They
the D.S. and he advised us to go, so we left a found that she had leukemia, and she stayed
few mornings later at daylight before the with us as preparations were made for her to be
soldiers were about, and were they furious. flown home for her last days.
They demanded to loot our house, killed our
chickens and ate them, and only the influence We left Kitwe and were flown by Paul
of the D.S. kept them from breaking in our Alexander to Kindu, where we arrived as the
house and looting it. We thought it best to stay Field Committee was breaking up after meeting
in Rhodesia until some of the worst was over, in the house where we would be living for
so spent several months there--probably two. seven years. Was that plane loaded. Paul had
When we came home to Kanene, things were to sit hunched over because of all the stuff we
quieter, and we were able to continue our work. carried with us. We spent the night en route.
41
folk left.
So, it was back to work, and to the classroom
for us. I wasn't too happy about that, but it was We managed to get along quite well, and could
an adjustment that had to come. Kindu had the always get a pretty good exchange for our
first two years of Secondary School. It was money that came in from friends every now and
called the Cycle d'Orientation. The first year then. Stealing which previously hadn't been too
class had over 70 students in it, and were much of a problem, was really bad, and one had
meeting in one of the Primary School rooms. to lock everything up. Once while we were
One can imagine what teaching we did with so away, some thieves carried off our light plant,
many students, with no books, few pens, and because it was too heavy for them,
notebooks etc. We lived through the abandoned it by the side of the road. Another
experience. We were soon speaking Otetela, smaller one, we never found. One night, a thief
Swahili and French, and sometimes I fear a cut the screen as Mildred was watching him,
jumble. Ukunda Andre was the Director. From and when she came to wake me up it scared
1963 to 1970 I taught and my teaching was him off. Most everything not tied down was
never inspected. I wonder if the inspector carried off. There was always a wrangle about
would have approved it. pay scales. We used to have it up and down
with the few who worked for us. It seemed that
Kindu was a pretty sad looking place, for all the the demand was always for more and more.
disturbances that had come to it in the years The government finally came in, and set scales,
from 1960 to 1963 had left their marks on the but this helped very little to keep down the
city. People were cautious, and there was an feeling that you were out to cheat them of their
atmosphere of lack of confidence in wages. Most of the government people were
government and other allied interests. The kind and rather accommodating to us.
place looked run down, and many of the stores
were closed. A good many of the governmental It was difficult to keep up the standards for the
offices were occupied by men who were there schools, and if close inspection had been made I
to fill their pockets, and often when a person doubt that we would have had subsidy as we
had wind of the fact that he might be transferred did. Some of the teachers objected to the
somewhere else, he paid himself his salary for church taking out the tithe from their salaries.
six months just before having to leave. And the On one or two occasions a Syndicate tried to
pity about the whole matter was that people felt muscle in on the teachers and get them
that he was doing the right thing. Even our unionized, but Bishop Shungu was very much
church people expressed approval of this sort of against this. Bishop Shungu was the successor
thing. of Bishop Booth, and did an excellent job in
administrative work, and was a good preacher.
Food was scarce, and Kindu was no longer the He did tend to be a bit dictatorial from the
rice bowl of that part of the world as it had been beginning, so continued to become more and
in times past. Rice was brought in from more that way until his episcopacy was rejected
Arkansas. The butcher shop, run by our by his own people. The tragedy of the situation
Belgian friend Thommes, was open for some is that few of our African people are ready to
months, but closed again as more trouble step down from such a high position gracefully.
seemed near. The larger stores were closed, He and Bishop Onema are now almost
and only occasionally could one find canned irreconcilable.
goods and other edibles. Fish could always be
bought at the market, but one had to watch to When we went to Tunda to pick up what stuff
see that it was really fresh, for some of the we had there, we found that our silverware was
women tried to put old fish off on you. One stolen, and other things had been checked over.
had to be constantly on guard to keep within his The 400 day clock was partially taken, and the
rights, for it seemed that there were few honest rest left. The person who took these things did
42
not know much. Our light plant had been used
until it was about shot. Anything that was used
was used hard. The big diesel plant had been
used until it was about broken and out of usage.
The water pump was about out, and things were
terribly run down. The Pension system was in a
mess and has not been straightened out to this
day in all respects, so the people who paid
money into it were the ones who got nothing
back when they need it so much. I think that
most of the money was stolen at Bukavu in the
Bank. All our stations were in a grand mess
after the events of the early '60s. There was
little that we could do about it.

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