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taste
Full Circle
A tranformed 360 Wine Bar Bistro turns our heads
BY KAY WEST • PHOTOS BY RON MANVILLE
THE LATE JANUARY SNOWSTORM in Nashville had
closed schools for the day, cancelled university classes and
sporting events, emptied grocery shelves and streets. But at 360
Wine Bar Bistro, it was business as usual on this mid-week night.
Most of the 10 bar stools were occupied, the intimate dining room
was full, engaging bar manager Ashley Thompson was mixing
cocktails, the smiling hostess smoothly steered parties to their
tables, and waiters were performing the graceful choreography
of skilled service over a pleasantly-modulated audio track of
conversation, laughter and stemware clinking in a happy toast to
the company of friends and anticipation of the comforting warmth
of good food and fine wine on a cold winter’s night.
This portrait of the luminous manifestation of 360 as it is today
would be incomplete without referencing its origin as the Nashville
location of The Grape, an Atlanta-headquartered small chain
of contemporary wine bars. When Nick Jacobson and his then-part-
ner Joe Gordy opened The Grape in August 2005 in the ‘60s-era
shopping center turned into Spaces, Jacobson says their decision to
open a franchise of an existing operation was sound. “We had never
been in the restaurant business and we had a lot to learn. Wine bars
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were very popular in other cities and Nashville was kind of behind
the curve. We believed The Grape was a good business move.”
With the surprising paucity of good, contemporary, upscale
restaurants in one of Nashville’s wealthiest areas, The Grape
held its own as a neighborhood watering hole—though only for
people who drank wine, as Grape policy forbid serving anything
else. Consequently, The Grape was popular with the ladies, as much
for its wine as for its petite plates of food, many of which didn’t seem
to actually be cooked as heated. (The menu was also directed by the
corporate office.)
As Jacobson became more comfortable running a restaurant, the
sophisticated and well-traveled entrepreneur became less com-
fortable with the concept of The Grape; in November 2007 he
made a break for it and declared independence.
“We renamed the restaurant 360, because that was our goal and
our vision,” Jacobson says, who has been the sole owner for some
time. “But for the first few months, it was just a 180.”
The determined but deliberately-paced evolution into a full-
service restaurant took an important leap forward with the hiring of
chef John David Crow in January 2008. The Seattle transplant
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taste

Grilled Austrailian leg of lamb
Director of Operations Brett Allen, Chef Sal Avila,
owner Nick Jacobson, pastry chef Brandi Collins
and bar manager Ashley Thompson
steered the kitchen into new and exciting culinary terrain, and word
spread beyond 37205. After Crow flew back to the Northwest, three sub-
sequent chefs took a turn with the 360˚ turnaround.
With pros in the kitchen, Jacobson focused on the front of the house,
hiring Brett Allen—well known from his days at F. Scott’s and Wild Boar—as
director of operations. Sharing wine director duties, Allen and Jacobson first
booted the Grape list, and then set about building a new cellar. Today, 360
offers over 50 wines by the glass and nearly 700 wines on their list, with
an inclination towards France, Italy and California. Oenophiles will delight in
perusing the leather bound book of more than 60 pages; more casual imbibers
might want to scroll through in advance online. Or put your selection in the
hands of Allen or Jacobson who will be happy to allay your wine anxiety.
Concurrent with the kitchen and beverage changes, the interior of 360
was also undergoing a transformation. My memory of The Grape’s first
incarnation is a room where Harold Went Wild with His Purple Crayon, to
paraphrase the children’s book. Everything from the walls to the menus to the
napkins was a shade of the dramatic color, as if Prince had unfurled his satin
cape over every surface. The re-do, says Jacobson, has been in increments, so
that long-time customers hardly notice. But coming into 360 after nearly five
years away, I felt the love for this sexy and sultry room. Tones are neutral and
subdued, candle-lit tables are swathed in thick white linen, brushed steel
chandeliers drop from the ceiling, tasteful art adorns the walls that are not
covered by floor-to-ceiling honey-colored wooden wine racks, a successful
marriage of form and function. The floor plan is essentially the same, but the
sole survivor of the original décor is the cushy amethyst slip-covered club
chairs that wrap diners in a sensuous embrace.
It’s Chef Sal Avila that seals the deal that places 360 Wine Bar Bistro on
the select list of Nashville’s best restaurants. Avila went to culinary school and
spent much of his formative cooking years in Northern California, particu-
larly the Bay area. Though he is of Mexican heritage, most of his influences
are from Italian and French kitchens, and he cites Chef Robert Holt at the
award-winning Cetralla restaurant in Half Moon Bay, Cali. as his first mentor.
In 2008, Avila came to Nashville and landed a place as Tandy Wilson’s
pizzaiolo at City House before going back to Oakland to work with Chef Holt
at Marzano. In July 2009, he came back to City House, an assignment cut
short by the carpel tunnel syndrome he developed working the dough.
Simultaneous with Avila looking for another gig, Jacobson was looking for
a new chef, and through his friend and City House devotee Hoyt Hill, an
introduction was made, an audition in Jacobson’s home was passed with
flying colors, and Avila had the job. “I felt like we had hit a plateau,” says
Jacobson. “We wanted to revitalize the menu, rev up our game.”
Avila hit the ground running, making changes almost immediately and in
three weeks, most of the menu was his. Most notably, the crab appetizer.
“There were a few things Nick wanted to keep—the Bistro Burger, the
Steak Frites and the crab cakes. I was okay with the burger and the steak,
but not crab cakes. Everybody has crab cakes. I wanted to give our diners
something different.”
Avila’s interpretation is presented as a linear progression of color and
flavor on a long narrow plate, starting with a round of cleanly-flavored crab
salad, shaved green apple, persimmon gazpacho, halved purple grapes and
toasted Marcona almonds.

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C OC K TA IL C OU TU R E
S P EC IA L P R OMOTION

Cold Crab Salad

360 WINE BAR BISTRO

6000 Highway 100
(615) 353-5604
360bistro.com
THE DISH: Cold Dungeness Crab Salad ($14); Steamed
Prince Edward Island Mussels ($15); House Made Ricotta
Gnocchi ($13); Tasmanian Sea Trout ($29); Grilled
Australian Leg of Lamb ($28); Original 360 Bistro Burger
($15); Mexican Chocolate Souffle ($19); White Chocolate
Empanadas ($7); Artisan Cheese Trio ($16).
THE BAR: Specialty seasonal cocktails and after dinner
desert cocktails; full inventory of premium and select
spirits; domestic, imported and high gravity beer; 360 has
the Cruvinet system behind the bar that uses nitrogen to

The New Rite of Spring:

create a bottle vacuum and maintains the integrity of
wines served by the glass; nearly 700 vintages on the

CHAMBORD VODKA
extensive list, and a selection of five flights, called 360’s.
The Noise: Pleasant, subdued and conducive to
conversation.
The Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 11 a.m.–10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 11 Say goodbye to winter and hello to spring! It’s
a.m.-midnight; Sun. 5 -9 p.m. time to plan a celebration of the season with a
spring equinox party to fête the arrival of the most
PARKING: Large parking lot
refreshing time of year. And why not bring a little
RESERVATIONS: Accepted something new into the mix?
CREDIT CARDS: All major Chambord Vodka, fresh from France, is just
the spirit to set the party mood, along with the
warmer temperatures and sunshine. This deli-
cious treat marries the bright, sweet raspberry
essence of Chambord with French vodka. Hints
of hibiscus, a pure taste and no artificial notes
make this uplifting beverage the spirit of the
season. So shake off those winter blues and
Though the crab salad might stick around for a while, diners shouldn’t get too attached
celebrate with these tasty drink recipes.
to any one item; Avila changes the menu frequently, according to what’s available and what
he wants to cook. “Tandy was my other primary mentor. He really taught me to pay attention FLEUR DE LIS
to what I wanted to taste.” 3/4 ounce Chambord Flavored Vodka
Lesson learned: The intensely personal nature of Avila’s cooking is infused with passion 3/4 ounce Chambord Liqueur
and respect for the true properties of the ingredients and character of the food. Every plate 2 ounces lemonade
1 ounce cranberry juice
that came out of the kitchen the night we dined felt touched by the chef’s hands. Squeeze lemon
A trio of green salads and the crab represent the light side of a menu of robust and Shake all ingredients with ice and pour into tall
rustic dishes that mine the earthy flavors and simple cooking methods of the Mediterranean. glass. Garnish with lemon twist.

FRENCH GINGER ALE

Among the plates the circled our table of four the night we visited were Porcini Arancini—
stuffed fried rice balls that are a staple of Italian home cooking—anchored in a thick pool of
1 ounce Chambord Flavored Vodka
fennel ragu; a grilled tentacle of octopus with white beans, roasted peppers and Spanish
3 ounces ginger ale
sausage; sea trout with the crispy pan-friend Brussels sprouts that will convert avowed Pour vodka into an ice-filled glass and top with
sprouts-haters; exquisitely flavorful and juicy grilled Australian leg of lamb, sliced and fanned ginger ale. Garnish with a piece of crystallized
over sauteed greens and a fresh-made pasta from Tom Lazzaroli’s Germantown store, paired ginger and a black raspberry.

STARRY NIGHT
with a meaty ragu of shredded beef cheek and pancetta. With such bold culinary statements,
Avila has in short time cooked his way into Nashville’s best chef’s club.
1 ½ ounces Chambord Flavored Vodka
Pastry chef Brandi Collins also brings her A game to breads and desserts, and the ¾ ounce Chase Elderflower Liqueur
divine Mexican Chocolate Souffle with Salted Caramel Anglaise and Grey Salt extends the ½ ounce lime juice
after-glow of an evening at 360. Top with Champagne
Nick Jacobson is justifiably proud of the complete turnaround he has directed and Shake and strain ingredients into a Coupe glass
or champagne flute. Garnish with a rose bud.
produced at 360 Wine Bar Bistro, but he’s not satisfied with being the best restaurant in the
PARISIAN COSMOPOLITAN
neighborhood, or one of the best in town. With confidence and conviction, he states, “I want
to be the best restaurant in Nashville.” ½ ounce Chambord Flavored Vodka
2 ounces cranberry juice
½ ounce sour mix
Shake with ice and strain into a chilled martini
glass. Garnish with a lemon twist.