A WEDDING PARTY. ~ 98
ridge of rocky hills, ranning close to the sandy shore, which
is here and there enlivened by a group of palm-trees.
We kept close to the sea till we came, in about one hour
and a half, to Athltte, or Castellum Pelegrinum, @ curious
motley pile of rains standing out on a rocky headland.
The foundation stones are so massive, that they have
resisted the storms of centuries, and tell of » time anterior
to the Romans, who no doubt erected the fortress, built
the walls, and fashioned the columns which are now falling
to decay. The crusaders, too, have left some of their
handiwork here—the pointed arches and the ruins of a
Christian church still speak of them. Within the walls
of the church, and under the shadow of the fortress, mod-
ern houses are rudely built, and inhabited by a poor Moslem
population. A group of women were resting by a well of
sculptured stone, just outside the walls. Opposite to this
interesting place we found a narrow defile cut through the
rocks, leading eastward direct from the shore to the plain.
Deep ruts, for chariot wheels, were cut in the road, which
was just wide enough for two horsemen to ride freely
abreast. The white limestone walls rise abruptly on each
side, garnished with patches of fragrant herbs and amber-
colored lichen. Lintels at each end of this passage show
that formerly it was protected by gates, and ruins of strong
fortifications surmount it.
We passed out of this curious defile into the fertile but
not very extensively-cultivated plain, or “Vale of Dor,”
between the mountain range of Carmel and the rocky coast-
hills under whose pleasant shade we pursued our way.
We could see that the two chains of hills met at an acute
angle far away in the north. Now and then, natural fis-
sures in the rocks, or little valleys made fertile by Winter
torrents, revealed to us the sun and the sea.
‘We stopped to water our animals at a little spring,
called Ain Dustrei, which forms a tiny lake, and then
finds its way between the hills to the shore. A group of
gostherds, with reed pipes, were assembled round a clay94 DOMESTIC LIFE IN PALESTINE.
trough, where their flocks of goats were crowding to drink.
The vegetation by this stream and fountain was wild and
luxuriant. Oleandors, lupins, tall grass, and the arbutus
abounded. The monks soon pointed out, with delight, the
white convent of Mar Elias on the headland of Carmel.
Pleasant sounds of voices, songs, and bells, and laughter
reached us, and we saw an animated little party approach-
ing, mounted on camels, whose nodding heads and necks
were decorated with beads, shells, crimson tassels, and
strings of little tinkling bells. I paused by the wayside to
watch them, as they slowly passed. There were thirteen
camels strung together, each carrying two or three women
and children, all in gala dresses, made chiefly of soft crim-
son silk, with white Vandyked stripes on it. On their
heads, they wore scarfs or vails, of various colors and ma-
terials—silk, muslin, and wool—folded across their fore-
heads, just meeting the eyebrows, thon thrown over the
back of the head, and brought forward again to cover their
faces, all but the shining eyes. The fringed or bordered
ends were allowed to fall gracefully over the shoulders.
Some of the women had slipped these vails, or wimples, -
down below their lips, so as to join in the chorus of the
songs improvised by the two professional singing-women
who accompanied them. My brother could perceive that it
was a bridal party, by these songs, which very much resem-
bled in style the “Song of Songs which is Solomon's.” A
number of men were in attendance on foot, forming a
picturesque body-guard to the exalted women. They were
people of one of the villages of the plain or vale of Dor,
and had been to Haifa, to purchase dresses, trinkets, and
furniture for two approaching weddings, in a family of
some local importance. They were scarcely out of hearing
when we met another noisy group, consisting of men and
boys, with a few camels, mules, and donkeys, clumsily laden
with the purchases for the weddings—cooking utensils,
baskets of rice, reed mats, bales of goods, and two red
wooden boxes, ornamented with gilt hinges and strap-work.THE KHARUB TREE. 95
The largest camel carried, high on his back, two little
wooden cradles, painted blue, red, and yellow; one for
each of the brides. This piece of furniture is regarded
in the East as the most important and necessary item of
a trousseau; and she is an unhappy wife who does not
soon see rocking in the gaudy cradle an infant son, whose
name she may take, and through whom she may become
honored among women.*
‘As we proceeded northward, the plain was so much
more narrow, that we could distinguish the deep caverns
and excavations in the limestone hills opposite, which
have, in turn, served as places of refuge or retreat for
prophets, saints, and anchorites, banditti or robbers, and
beasts of prey.
‘The village of Tireh was pointed out to me, surrounded
by cultivated ficlds and orchards, Groups of palm-trees
grew here and there, and the hill-sides were clothed with
dwarf oak, wild fig, and locust trees. The fruit of the
locust, when ripe, is like a large crooked bean-pod, brown
and glossy, filled with large seeds. It is so nutritious, that
the children of the poor live entirely on it, during the
season, requiring no other food, for it contains all the
necessary elements for the support of life—starch, sugar,
oil, ete. in proper proportion. I found it, when new,
rather too sweet to suit my taste. Children seemed to
enjoy it, and they thrive on it, eating the shell as well as
the seeds. When this fruit is stored, it becomes somewhat
dry, and less sweet, but on being soaked in honey, it is
like new fruit. The Arabs all like sweet food, and of
many s man of Judea and Galilee, as well as of John the
Baptist, it might be said, His meat [for a season] was
locusts and wild honey.”+
Just before sunset, we reached the foot of the headland
which forms the southern boundary’ of the bay of Akka.
On its summits the convent stands. It was too late, and
Bee page 63.
The Arabic name for the locust-treo is ‘Kharab,” and the beans are commonly
called “St, John’s bread.”