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Golden

Retrievers
by Margaret H. Bonham

A member of Penguin Group (USA) Inc.


Golden
Retrievers
by Margaret H. Bonham

A member of Penguin Group (USA) Inc.


To Larry, as always.

ALPHA BOOKS
Published by the Penguin Group
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Penguin Books Ltd, Registered Offices: 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, England

Copyright © 2004 by Margaret H. Bonham


All rights reserved. No part of this book shall be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted
by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without written permission
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assume no responsibility for errors or omissions. Neither is any liability assumed for damages resulting
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THE COMPLETE IDIOT’S GUIDE TO and Design are registered trademarks of Penguin Group
(USA) Inc.
ISBN: 1-4362-9395-2
Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 2004115235
Interpretation of the printing code: The rightmost number of the first series of numbers is the year of
the book’s printing; the rightmost number of the second series of numbers is the number of the book’s
printing. For example, a printing code of 04-1 shows that the first printing occurred in 2004.
Note: This publication contains the opinions and ideas of its author. It is intended to provide helpful
and informative material on the subject matter covered. It is sold with the understanding that the author
and publisher are not engaged in rendering professional services in the book. If the reader requires per-
sonal assistance or advice, a competent professional should be consulted.
The author and publisher specifically disclaim any responsibility for any liability, loss, or risk, personal
or otherwise, which is incurred as a consequence, directly or indirectly, of the use and application of any
of the contents of this book.
Publisher: Marie Butler-Knight Copy Editor: Kelly D. Henthorne
Product Manager: Phil Kitchel Cartoonist: Chris Eliopoulos
Senior Managing Editor: Jennifer Chisholm Book Designer: Trina Wurst
Senior Acquisitions Editor: Mike Sanders Indexer: Angie Bess
Development Editor: Michael Thomas Layout: Angela Calvert
Production Editor: Janette Lynn Proofreading: John Etchison
Contents at a Glance
Part 1: Introduction to the Golden Retriever 1
1 Gold Medal Goldens 3
Introducing the Golden Retriever.
2 Golden Opportunity—Looking for the Right Golden 17
Where to find the right Golden Retriever.

Part 2: Selecting and Bringing Home a Golden Retriever 43


3 Retrieving the Golden Treasure 45
Selecting the right puppy or adult Golden based
on temperament.
4 Puppy Preparedness—Bringing Your Golden Home 51
Preparing for your new dog or puppy.

Part 3: Dog Training 101 73


5 Crates and Housetraining 75
How to housetrain your Golden Retriever.
6 Gold Star—Professional Training 87
Selecting a professional trainer.
7 Training Ground Rules 95
Do’s and don’ts when training a dog.
8 The Golden Rule—Basic Training 107
Basic obedience training.
9 Tricky Goldens—Teaching Tricks 127
Learn how to teach fun tricks to your Golden.
10 Recalcitrant Retrievers 137
Fixing problem Goldens.

Part 4: In Sickness and in Health 155


11 Food for Thought: Nutrition 157
What to feed your Golden Retriever.
12 Choosing a Veterinarian 173
Choosing the right vet for your Golden.
13 Inside and Out: The Battle of the Bugs 185
Getting rid of internal and external parasites.
14 Healthy Choices—Preventive Care 197
Keeping your Golden Retriever healthy.
15 Common Golden Retriever Illnesses, Hereditary
Ailments, and Emergencies 213
Illnesses and injuries that affect Golden Retrievers.

Part 5: The Golden Life—Living with a Golden 237


16 Disaster Planning 239
Handling disasters.
17 On the Road Again—Traveling with Your Golden 249
Traveling with your Golden Retriever.
18 The Golden Years 265
Caring for the senior Golden.

Appendixes
A Glossary 277
B Organizations 283
C Books and Periodicals 287
Index 289
Contents
Part 1: Introduction to the Golden Retriever 1
1 Gold Medal Goldens 3
Taking the Golden Medal—Why Goldens
Are So Popular 4
Personality Plus 5
Golden Pleasures—Bringing a Golden Retriever
into Your Life 7
The Gold Standard—Where Golden Retrievers Excel 9
Show and Field 9
Therapy and Assistance 9
Obedience 10
Lord Tweedmouth’s Dog—The Development
of the Golden Retriever 10
The Golden Retriever Standard 11
Why the Standard Is Important 11
The Great Show or Pet Quality Debate 12
Summary of the Golden Retriever Standard 13
2 Golden Opportunity—Looking for the Right Golden 17
Ir-retrieve-able Consequences—Why Knowledge
Is Golden 18
Disreputable Breeders 20
Reputable Breeders 22
What’s a Reputable Breeder? 22
Health Certifications 24
Where to Find the Reputable Breeder 26
What Are “Papers”? 29
AKC and Other Breed Registries 31
What’s a Pedigree? 32
Nature AND Nurture: Reputable Breeder = Healthy Pups 33
The Contract 34
Shelters and Rescue Groups 35
Finding the Right Golden 37
Puppy or Adult? 37
Male or Female? 38
Work, Show, or Pet? 39
Kids and Dogs 39
Two’s Company 41
vi The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Golden Retrievers

Part 2: Selecting and Bringing Home a Golden Retriever 43


3 Retrieving the Golden Treasure 45
Selecting the Perfect Puppy from the Litter 46
Selecting an Adult Dog 49
4 Puppy Preparedness—Bringing Your Golden Home 51
The Bare Necessities 52
Bones, Chews, and Other Edible Items 53
The Knee Bone’s Connected to the Leg Bone … 55
Rawhide 55
Cow Hooves, Pig Ears, and Other Parts 56
Edible Chews 56
Toys 56
Not-So-Necessary Items (but Sure Nice to Have!) 58
Puppy and Dog Food—Do’s and Don’ts 59
Puppy-Proofing 101 61
House 61
Garage 64
Backyard Blues 64
Bringing Puppy Home 68
First Stop: The Veterinarian 69
Don’t Have a Puppy Surprise Party 69
Introductions to Other Family Pets 70
How to Get a Good Night’s Sleep 71

Part 3: Dog Training 101 73


5 Crates and Housetraining 75
Crates 76
Why Crate Training Is NOT Cruel 78
Alternatives to Crates 78
Crate Training 101 80
Crate Training for Older Dogs 80
Housetraining 101 81
Housetraining Don’ts 82
Housetraining Do’s 83
Uh-oh! What to Do with Accidents 84
6 Gold Star—Professional Training 87
Should You Train Your Golden by Yourself? 88
Looking for the Right Trainer 89
Training Classes Available 90
Puppy Kindergarten 90
Beginning Obedience 90
Contents vii

Novice 91
Other Obedience Classes 92
Tracking 92
Agility 92
Conformation 93
Flyball 93
Rally-O 93
Field Trials/Hunting Tests/Retrieving Work 94
7 Training Ground Rules 95
Do’s and Don’ts 95
Training Collars 98
Slip Collar 98
Prong Collar 99
Snap Chokes 100
Head Halters 100
Leashes 101
Latigo Leather 101
Long Lines 102
Clicker 102
Bait Pouches 102
Treats 103
The Canine Good Citizen® 103
Obtaining the CGC ® 103
Training for the CGC ® 105

8 The Golden Rule—Basic Training 107


Clicker Training 108
Intro to the Clicker 109
Vary the Response Times 110
Training with the Target Stick 110
Adding Cue Words 112
Walk Nicely on a Leash 113
Positive Method 113
Clicker Metbod 114
Sit 114
Positive Method 115
Clicker Metbod 115
Down 115
Positive Method 116
Clicker Metbod 116
Stay 116
Positive Method 116
Clicker Metbod 117
Practicing Sit-Stay and Down-Stay 117
viii The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Golden Retrievers

OK! The Release Word 117


Come 118
Positive Method—Starting Out 118
Clicker Metbod—Starting Out 119
Add Distractions (Positive and Clicker Methods) 120
Practicing Come Off-Leash (Positive and Clicker Methods) 120
Heeling on Leash 121
Positive Method 121
Clicker Metbod 122
Other Useful Commands 123
The Off Command 123
The Drop or Trade Command 124
Leave it! Command 124
Watch me! Command 125
Out Command 125
“Bed” Command 125
9 Tricky Goldens—Teaching Tricks 127
Teaching Tricks 128
Fun Tricks to Try 128
Shake Hands 129
Speak 129
Take a Bow 130
Fetch Something 131
Roll Over 133
Wave Good-Bye 133
Give Me a Kiss 133
Beg 134
Creating Your Own Tricks 134
10 Recalcitrant Retrievers 137
When Good Dogs Go Bad 138
Breaking the Cycle 138
Signs of Trouble on the Horizon 140
How Owners Encourage Bad Behavior 141
When a Behavior Appears Out of Nowhere
(or Even If It Doesn’t) 142
Chewing and Other Destructive Behavior 144
House-Soiling 145
Don’t Tread on Me! Jumping Up 146
Trench Warfare—Digging 146
Barking up the Wrong Tree—Excessive Barking 147
It’s Houdini! 148
Raiding Parties 148
Aggression 149
Contents ix

Don’t Leave Me Alone!—Separation Anxiety 151


Fear of Thunder and Other Loud Noises 152

Part 4: In Sickness and in Health 155


11 Food for Thought: Nutrition 157
What to Feed Your Golden Retriever 158
Canned, Dry, Frozen, or Semi-Moist? 162
Nutrition Nuggets 163
Protein 164
Fat 164
Carbohydrates 165
Home Cooking—Raw Food Diets 165
Proponents’ Statements 165
The Difficulties of Balancing Nutrients 167
Performance Diets—Feeding the Canine Athlete 168
Fad Diets 168
Junk Food—Between-Meal Snacks 169
Poisonous Temptations—Chocolate and Other
Unsafe Foods 169
Obesity 170
Determining Whether Your Golden Is Fit or Fat 170
Diet Isn’t a Four-Letter Word 170
12 Choosing a Veterinarian 173
Dog Doctors 174
Finding the Best Dog Doc for Your Golden 175
Meet the Vet—Your Golden’s First Visit 177
Vaccinations 178
When to Vaccinate 179
Available Vaccinations 179
Pet Health Insurance 183
13 Inside and Out: The Battle of the Bugs 185
Over-the-Counter Remedies for Parasites 186
Roundworms 186
Hookworms 187
Tapeworms 188
Whipworms 188
Heartworms 188
The Heartworm Lifecycle 189
Preventives 189
Treatment for Heartworm 190
Giardia 190
Coccidia 191
x The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Golden Retrievers

Fleas 191
Health Hazards 191
Declaring War 192
Your Latest Arsenal 192
Over-the-Counter Weapons 193
Ticks 193
Tick-Borne Diseases 194
How to Remove Ticks 194
Mites 195
Ear Mites 195
Mange Mites 195
14 Healthy Choices—Preventive Care 197
The Great Spay/Neuter Debate 198
Why You Should Spay or Neuter Your Golden 198
Myths About Spaying and Neutering 199
Health and Behavior Benefits 201
Giving Your Golden a Health Exam 201
Keeping the Doggie Dentist at Bay 203
Brushing Your Golden’s Teeth 203
Recognizing a Tooth or Gum Problem 204
Do You Hear What I Hear? 204
Cleaning Your Golden’s Ears 204
Recognizing an Ear Problem 205
Clipping Your Golden’s Toenails 205
Expressing the Anal Sacs 206
Golden Shimmers—Grooming Your Golden 207
A Golden’s Coat 207
Tools of the Trade 207
Baths 208
Giving Medications 210
Pill Popping 210
Liquid Medications 211
Taking Your Golden’s Temperature 211
15 Common Golden Retriever Illnesses, Hereditary Ailments,
and Emergencies 213
Hereditary and Congenital Diseases 214
Allergies 214
Elbow Dysplasia (ED) and Osteochondritis
Dissecans (OCD) 215
Epilepsy 216
Eye Disease 216
Hip Dysplasia (HD) 217
Hypothyroidism 218
Subvalvular Aortic Stenosis (SAS) 218
Contents xi

Illnesses and Injuries 219


Bad Breath 219
Broken Toenails 219
Bloat—A Life-Threatening Condition 220
Diarrhea and Vomiting 221
Flea Allergy Dermatitis or Flea Bite Dermatitis 222
Foxtails 222
Hot Spots 222
Lumps and Bumps on the Skin 223
Incontinence 223
Pyometra—A Life-Threatening Condition
for Intact Females 224
Irritated Eyes 224
Ringworm 225
Scratching 225
Seizures 226
Skunks 227
My Golden Is Pregnant—What Do I Do? 227
Assembling a First-Aid Kit 228
Health Emergencies 229
How to Muzzle Your Golden 230
Broken Bones 230
Burns 230
Choking or Difficulty Breathing 231
Cuts, Injuries, and Dog Bites 231
Electrocution 231
Fishhooks 232
Frostbite and Hypothermia 232
Insect Bites and Stings 233
Overheating 233
Poisoning 234
Shock 235

Part 5: The Golden Life—Living with a Golden 237


16 Disaster Planning 239
Do You Know What to Do If a Disaster Strikes? 240
Preparing for a Disaster 240
I’m Moving Out 241
Where to Stay 241
Your Disaster Kit 242
ID, Please 243
Tags 243
Microchips and Tattoos 244
Lost Dog 246
17 On the Road Again—Traveling with Your Golden 249
Should You Travel with Your Golden? 249
Your Golden’s Travel Bag 253
Car Travel 254
Air Travel 257
Accommodations 258
Boarding Kennels 259
Pet Sitters 261
18 The Golden Years 265
Active Mind + Active Body = Long, Healthy Life 266
Keeping Your Old Golden Comfortable 267
Old-Age Ailments 268
Arthritis 268
Blindness 269
Cancer and Tumors 269
Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome (CDS) 270
Congestive Heart Failure 270
Deafness 271
Dental Problems 271
Urinary Tract Problems 272
Should You Get Another Dog? 272
Saying Good-Bye 273

Appendixes
A Glossary 277
B Organizations 283
C Books and Periodicals 287
Index 289
Foreword
My goose was cooked the minute I plucked him from the heap of
frolicking puppies. One gaze into that devilish little face and I knew
we were destined to become forever pals. Charlie we named him.
And so began my exhilarating twenty-five-year odyssey with Golden
Retrievers. At first there was just one. But for me, as for many
fanciers, Goldens are kind of like potato chips: You can’t have just
one. So then there were two, then three, and at one time even four,
cluttering the space on and around the bed. Some were acquired as
puppies, others adopted as adults through Golden Retriever rescue.
With each new companion my involvement with and knowledge
of “things Golden” grew. Initially, I knew little if anything about
health issues particular to Goldens, or canine nutrition, or even the
importance of basic training and socialization. It was only with my
third Golden that I began serious study of this astounding breed.
My association with dog sports led to a bevy of mentors who fur-
thered my canine education. A local Golden club welcomed me as a
know-nothing neophyte. Later I joined the Golden Retriever Club
of America, and volunteered to foster for Golden Retriever rescue.
With each new dog, and every new involvement, so grew my
knowledge. Only now do I realize how truly “dog dumb” I was in
the beginning, and how much Charlie would have benefited had I
known then what Maggie Bonham has so expertly organized into
these pages.
There is no more companionable, no user-friendlier dog than
a Golden. That’s why in the span of fewer than eighty years my
chosen breed has rocketed in popularity from zero to number two
in AKC registrations. In a sense that’s the good news. Now, it
seems, you can’t turn on the TV, open a magazine, go to the movies
without being greeted in some fashion by a grinning Golden. The
problem is, none of these Goldens seem to shed, trash the furniture,
chase the cat, dig up the flower garden, slobber or worse on the
living room carpet, or run up fearsome veterinary bills. And that’s
the bad news—as evidenced by the fact that more than 100 Golden
rescue organizations are scrambling for resources to accommodate
and re-home these wonderful creatures now being relinquished by
first owners at a rate rapidly approaching 10,000 annually. A whole
lot of folks, apparently, leaped before they looked. And a whole lot
of wonderful dogs became the unwitting losers.
An informed buyer, a well-educated owner should be every
Golden’s entitlement. These are their keys to a long and happy life,
in but one home. So, if you’re reading this in the aisle at the book-
store, head now to the checkout. Because in The Complete Idiot’s
Guide to Golden Retrievers, Maggie Bonham delivers a wealth of
information you can put to immediate use—whether it be to make
an informed buying decision if you’re considering acquiring a
Golden, or becoming a better owner if you’re already blessed by
one. Spend the few evenings it will take to digest these contents and
take that huge stride toward becoming the educated caregiver your
Golden deserves. My Charlie will be smiling on you from above.
—Rue Chagoll
Rue Chagoll is a freelance writer and Golden Retriever fancier. He
trains his Goldens for obedience, agility, and hunt test competition,
and also volunteers with Golden Retriever rescue. His writings have
won numerous awards from the Dog Writers Association of America
and the American Kennel Club.
Introduction
So you want to own a Golden Retriever? Goldens are the second most
popular dog in the United States today—right behind their cousins,
the Labrador Retrievers—and make great pets. But Goldens aren’t
for everyone. In this book, you’ll learn a bit more about the Golden
Retriever and find out whether there’s a Golden in your future.
This book is intended for both the first-time Golden owner and
for the owner who is looking for tips on caring for and training their
Golden Retriever. Unlike many books that focus on top breeders
and lists of dog show champions, this book focuses on all aspects of
Golden ownership. After all, what use are lists of dogs you’ve never
heard of when you’re trying to housebreak your puppy?

What You’ll Find in This Book


This book is divided into five user-friendly parts:
Part 1, “Introduction to the Golden Retriever,” provides a
basic overview of the Golden Retriever as a breed. It discusses the
commitment required in Golden ownership and whether the Golden
is the right breed for you.
Part 2, “Selecting and Bringing Home a Golden Retriever,”
describes what a reputable breeder is and how to find the perfect
Golden for you. It explains vital health certifications and papers.
I also discuss selecting your Golden and dog supplies, bringing your
Golden home, and the first few days with your new companion.
Part 3, “Dog Training 101,” provides a basic overview of obe-
dience training and other forms of dog training. In this part, you’ll
find out whether it’s better to find a professional trainer or go it
alone. You’ll also learn how to teach your Golden tricks.
Part 4, “In Sickness and in Health,” provides an overview
of maintaining your Golden’s health. You’ll be surprised to learn that
all dog food is not created equal and that your care will help improve
your Golden’s life. You’ll also learn about genetic diseases and what
constitutes an emergency. You’ll find out why you really shouldn’t
breed your Golden and what to do if your Golden is pregnant.
xvi The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Golden Retrievers

Part 5, “The Golden Life—Living with a Golden,” covers


disasters, traveling with your Golden, and making your Golden’s
senior years healthy and happy.

Extras
Check out the sidebars throughout the book. They’re packed full
of fun and informative facts.

Retriever Rewards Golden Glossary


Great tips that will Definitions of terms used
make your life easier. in this book.

Golden Glimmers
No Biscuit!
Interesting facts about dogs or Warnings about
Golden Retrievers. possible problems that might
arise. Read these boxes care-
fully!

Acknowledgments
My thanks to Jessica Faust, agent; Beth Adelman, tech editor and
friend; Mike Sanders, acquisitions editor; Mike Thomas, develop-
ment editor; Janette Lynn, production editor; and Kelly Henthorne,
copy editor.
Thanks to the following people and dogs for photographs:
Shannon Bordelon and Tristan Isabella
Teresa Bullard and Cinnamon, Audrey, and Ginger
Carolyn Risdon and Rico, Doc Holiday, Bailey, Bo, Amber,
Brandy, and Nala
Angie Swagger and Willow
Joe Johnson and Zippy
Janna Hughes and Kira
Introduction xvii

Peg Monahan and Baxter


Marilyn Eudaly, the American Animal Hospital Association,
and Sampson (and Levi, the token Labrador Retriever)
Mark Keller and Ernie
Barbara Gurlek and Denver
Lois DiMarzio and Laura
Carol Richtsmeier and Sasha
Pauline Washburn and Shilo

Thanks to Larry, Haegl, Kira, Kodiak, and even Ranger, who


make my life interesting from day to day.

Trademarks
All terms mentioned in this book that are known to be or are sus-
pected of being trademarks or service marks have been appropriately
capitalized. Alpha Books and Penguin Group (USA) Inc. cannot
attest to the accuracy of this information. Use of a term in this book
should not be regarded as affecting the validity of any trademark or
service mark.
Part

1 Introduction to the
Golden Retriever
The Golden Retriever is the second most popular AKC breed—and
little wonder. Golden owners talk about the Golden’s winsome per-
sonality and great looks—not to mention their high intelligence and
empathy. Yet the Golden Retriever isn’t the dog for everyone.
In Part 1, we cover the breed’s personality and history. You’ll
learn whether your lifestyle is conducive to dog ownership. Most
importantly, you’ll find out whether you’re ready to take the plunge
into the Golden opportunity of Golden ownership.
Chapter

1
Gold Medal Goldens
In This Chapter
≠ Learn why Goldens are popular
≠ Bringing a Golden into your life
≠ Learn where Goldens came from
≠ Learn how the Golden became a distinct breed in England
≠ The Golden Retriever in America

The Golden Retriever is the second most popular purebred


dog in the United States, right behind his cousin, the Labrador
Retriever. The versatility and winsome personality of this breed
makes the Golden an ideal companion as both a pet and a willing
worker.
In this chapter, you’ll find out whether a Golden is right for
you. Although the Golden Retriever is an easygoing breed and
is relatively easy to train, it is not for everyone. We’ll explore the
Golden’s personality and the time commitment necessary for
owning a Golden Retriever.
4 Part 1: Introduction to the Golden Retriever

Taking the Golden Medal—Why Goldens


Are So Popular
Golden Retrievers are the second most popular breed in the United
States—and little wonder! Goldens are the great goofballs of the
dog world—fun loving and happy; they’re like a rainbow on a cloudy
day.
In 2003, the Golden Retriever came in at 52,530 registrations
behind the juggernaut of the Labrador Retriever, who has well over
100,000 registrations a year. But numbers don’t make the dog and
certainly don’t tell the whole story.

© Joe Johnson

The Golden Retriever is the second most popular registered AKC breed.

So why are Goldens so popular? If you’ve met a Golden, you


already know. Good looks, combined with a great personality and
brains—wow! What a combination. That, along with a nice large
size, makes a terrific breed.
Chapter 1: Gold Medal Goldens 5

Personality Plus
Who hasn’t smiled when seeing a goofy Golden allowing kids (and
adults) to dress him up? Who could be a better companion than one
who is happy to play fetch for hours and then be equally happy to
sit beside you on the couch? And what breed is better at learning
tricks? The Golden Retriever is clever and trainable.

© Carolyn Risdon

Goldens love to retrieve! This is Brandy.

The standard of the Golden Retriever calls for a dog who is


friendly, reliable, and trustworthy. This dog is not aggressive toward
people or animals. Goldens make great family pets for the family
that has the time to devote to one. They’re people dogs. They can
6 Part 1: Introduction to the Golden Retriever

be active, especially when young and when they come from hunting
lines, but many make fine family pets. Most are good with kids and
other pets, including cats—if properly introduced.
Golden Retrievers are one of the most trainable of the retriever
breeds. In fact, many would argue that Goldens are the most train-
able of dog breeds. They’re willing to please and are focused on their
owners. As hunting and water
dogs, the Golden Retriever had to
Golden Glossary mark (see and remember) where a
Standard A standard is shot bird fell and then retrieve it
a kind of blueprint for the on command. This work required
breed. We say a dog “con- a hunting partner who could work
forms to the standard” when he off leash and be reliable, plus
meets the requirements for that
standard. retrieve the night’s dinner without
damaging it. Nowadays, the
Golden is superb at obedience,
agility, and other canine competi-
No Biscuit!
tions as well as hunting.
Never leave a child
alone with a dog, especially an There’s a caveat to all of this:
infant or toddler. Dogs can be You will get a Golden who is like
unpredictable and even a
this as long as you get a Golden
Golden with the best tempera-
ment may bite, especially if it’s who is well bred. Unfortunately,
teased or in pain. Although some unscrupulous breeders who
Goldens are considered to be breed just for profit have bred
good with kids, always super- some Goldens with bad tempera-
vise your kids when they’re play-
ments and health problems, so you
ing with your Golden.
must be careful when choosing
your Golden.
Chapter 1: Gold Medal Goldens 7

© American Animal Hospital Association

Goldens are so popular that the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA)
has a picture of one on their truck. This is Sampson.

Golden Pleasures—Bringing a Golden


Retriever into Your Life
So, is there a Golden Retriever in your future? Before you rush out
and get one, look at the pluses—and minuses—of owning a Golden
Retriever.
Goldens are medium-sized to large dogs—big enough to be a
substantial dog, but not so big as to be overpowering. Although they
are big, they’re very adaptable, provided they get enough exercise.
8 Part 1: Introduction to the Golden Retriever

Goldens are active dogs. They require a moderate amount of


exercise every day. This includes playing fetch, walking, swimming,
and other exercise. Goldens can be rambunctious, especially when
young. You’ll be wondering where the batteries are in your Golden
puppy because he’s got so much energy. They do settle down, but
expect a very active dog at least until age two.
Because Goldens are active, you can expect things to be knocked
over or bumped into. Golden tails are legendary when it comes to
clearing an end table. An exuberant Golden can knock over a tod-
dler or an elderly person (or even an occasional strong, healthy
adult) if they’re not careful.
Goldens shed profusely. Their coats require care so that they
don’t mat—usually brushing two or more times a week (and more
when shedding, which may be all the time!). Although they don’t
require as much coat care as many other breeds, they require
enough to make it a hassle to those who aren’t willing to groom
their Goldens. Some Goldens shed twice a year, but many shed
year-round. Golden owners think nothing of Golden hair as a
condiment in their food, and it blends well with the butter on toast.
Despite being wonderful dogs, Goldens are still dogs. That
means that a Golden may roll in stinky stuff and will delight in a
dead squirrel carcass. A Golden needs proper training and socializa-
tion and doesn’t automatically come housebroken.
Goldens can be destructive, especially if left alone for long peri-
ods of time. If you don’t have the time to spend with your Golden
every day, perhaps you should consider a pet that requires less time.
You’ll need a fenced-in backyard or a kennel if you live in the
suburbs or the country. Although you can train your Golden to be
fairly reliable off-leash, you should never leave your Golden loose
and unsupervised. Many dogs—including Goldens—have been hit
by cars. If you live in the city, you must walk your Golden several
times a day and clean up after him. You must take your Golden for
a long walk or play fetch in the park at least three times a week.
Chapter 1: Gold Medal Goldens 9

Goldens eat a lot. A Golden may eat a 40-pound bag or more


of dog food in a month. Likewise, you’ll have more dog waste to
clean up.
However, many Golden Retriever owners find the positives far
outweigh the negatives. Many Golden owners are active and enjoy
having pets that are so versatile and can enjoy their company in
many of their activities.

The Gold Standard—Where Golden


Retrievers Excel
Goldens are naturally talented and suited for a variety of tasks.
They’re great in hunting, therapy, and all types of performance
competition. When you go to an obedience or agility competition,
you’ll see Goldens often in top spots.

Show and Field


Golden Glossary
Goldens are outstanding retriev- American Kennel Club
ers. The AKC and other organi- (AKC) The AKC is the
zations offer both field trials oldest and largest national pure-
and hunting tests for Golden Re- bred dog registry in the United
States. The AKC was founded
trievers. They’re good hunting
in 1884.
dogs, too, not just for competition.

Therapy and Assistance


Goldens excel as both therapy and assistance dogs. Their size and
demeanor makes them useful for helping their owners. Goldens are
not as intimidating as other large breeds such as German Shepherd
Dogs or Rottweilers. Because Goldens aren’t aggressive and are
adaptable to various situations, Goldens are ideal for working
around people and encountering new situations.
10 Part 1: Introduction to the Golden Retriever

Obedience
The words “Golden Retriever” are synonymous with obedience.
Goldens are great in obedience, agility, rally, and other sports
because they’re athletic and they have a willingness to please. Of
course, you still have to put in the effort to have a Gold-Medal
Golden, but this is a breed that’s more trainable than many other
AKC breeds.

Lord Tweedmouth’s Dog—The Development


of the Golden Retriever
How did the Golden Retriever come to be the wonderful breed we
know today? To a large extent, we have to thank Lord Tweedmouth
and his gamekeepers, who developed the breed and kept accurate
records.
In 1865, Lord Tweedmouth bought a “Yellow Retriever” named
Nous in Brighton. He bred Nous to different dogs, mostly Tweed
Water Spaniels (an extinct liver-covered breed) and produced more
“Yellow Retrievers.” Continuing his breeding efforts, he added
what was then called a St. John’s dog—either a Newfoundland or
a Labrador Retriever—and maybe even a Bloodhound. One puppy
from Nous, Cowslip, proved to be a foundation dog as important
as Nous in Golden Retrievers.
By the late 1800s, Golden Retrievers became popular, especially
among sportsmen. The first Golden Retriever to win a field trial
did so in 1904. In 1908, Golden Retrievers were shown for the first
time as Flat-Coated Retrievers (Golden) in England. By 1913, the
Golden Retriever Club of England had formed, and Goldens were
recognized as a separate breed.
In 1925, the AKC allowed the first Golden Retrievers to be
registered as a separate breed in the United States. By 1938, the
Golden Retriever Club of America was founded.
Chapter 1: Gold Medal Goldens 11

Golden fanciers continue to


breed the Golden Retriever for Golden Glimmers
field work but also as show, pet, The first Golden Retriever regis-
obedience, and service dogs. The tered with the AKC was
Golden Retriever has been happy Lomberdale Blondin in 1925.
to step into his new roles with
the same cheerful enthusiasm for
which he is famous.

The Golden Retriever Standard


It’s hard to believe, but the Golden Retriever wouldn’t be what it is
today without a standard—that is, the American Kennel Club’s and
Golden Retriever Club’s blueprint for the breed. This standard
defines the very essence of the breed.
But what does this have to do with a Golden Retriever you
might be getting as a pet? Is the standard important even then?
Actually it is, if you want to know the difference between show-
and pet-quality Goldens. Let’s look at the standard in more detail.

Golden Glossary
Show quality A show-quality puppy or dog is a dog that
conforms closely to the standard and may be competitive in a
conformation (dog) show.
Pet quality A pet-quality puppy or dog is a dog that has a superfi-
cial blemish or fault that would prevent the dog from competing in the
conformation (dog) show ring.

Why the Standard Is Important


When you talk to Golden Retriever breeders, you may hear the
word “standard” mentioned. It can be a bit confusing if you’re not
familiar with the jargon. What is a standard and does it have any-
thing to do with the quality of your Golden?
12 Part 1: Introduction to the Golden Retriever

Every breed has a standard that has been written by the breed
club and accepted by the AKC or another breed registry. This stan-
dard is important because without it, the Golden Retriever wouldn’t
look the way it does today. (He might look like a Labrador Retriever
or another type of Retriever.)
The standard is a vision of the ideal Golden Retriever—an
imaginary dog that all good breeders try to attain. No Golden
Retriever can exactly match the standard, but the closer the dog
is to the standard, the better he will do in the show ring.

The Great Show or Pet Quality Debate


If you talk to show people and reputable breeders while looking for
your Golden Retriever, you’re likely to hear the terms show quality
and pet quality. You may think a show-quality Golden Retriever is,
therefore, better than a pet-quality dog. After all, show-quality dogs
generally cost more than pet-quality dogs.

Golden Glossary
Reputable breeders A reputable breeder breeds dogs for the
betterment of the breed. These breeders perform tests on their
dogs to avoid breeding puppies with bad hips, hereditary blindness,
or other hereditary diseases. These breeders guarantee their dogs and
often screen their puppy buyers vigorously. Puppies are not always
available.

Let’s clear this up once and for all. As you now know, show-
quality dogs are dogs who conform more closely to the Golden
Retriever standard. They aren’t
any better than a pet-quality dog
Golden Glossary
when it comes to being a pet. The
Conformation The
higher price of a show-quality
structure of the dog as it
conforms to the breed standard. Golden Retriever is intended to
reflect the potential of the puppy
Chapter 1: Gold Medal Goldens 13

to do well in conformation shows. The show-quality price of a puppy


does not guarantee that the dog will be a show-quality dog. In fact, it
does not make the dog more valuable as a pet, and if the dog isn’t
shown, the dog is no more valuable than a pet regardless of how
much you paid for him.
The show value of a dog comes from being shown and from
his breeding potential. If the dog isn’t shown, then his breeding
potential isn’t very good. So if you’re planning to show a Golden
in conformation shows, then yes, get a show-quality puppy. Other-
wise, get a pet-quality puppy.
Pet-quality dogs can compete and earn titles in obedience,
tracking, agility, and other performance sports. They’re usually less
expensive than show-quality puppies and unless you bring them into
a conformation show ring, you might not even know what makes
them a pet-quality puppy.
Your pet-quality puppy might be too tall or too short, according
to the standard. The length of his body might not be the correct
proportion to his height. He may have white markings or splashes
of another color on his coat. Or his ears may be too big or too
small. These variations certainly don’t change his winsome personal-
ity or his ability to be the best dog you’ve ever owned. Indeed, you
may find these variations cute or charming—something that makes
your Golden an individual.

Summary of the Golden Retriever Standard


Now let’s talk about what the Golden Retriever standard is. We’re
not reprinting it here, because quite frankly, the standard uses spe-
cial terminology that many people within the fancy (that is, people
who show dogs)—let alone outside dogs—don’t know. So instead,
I’ll give you a summary of what the standard says—in plain English.
(If you’re really curious about what the standard says, you can look
it up on the American Kennel Club’s website at www.akc.org.)
14 Part 1: Introduction to the Golden Retriever

The Golden Retriever is a powerful, active, and confident dog


bred to work as a hunting dog. His appearance and gait should be
those of a dog meant for working in the fields.
Male Golden Retrievers must be between 23 and 24 inches high
at the shoulders and weigh 65 to 75 lbs. Female Goldens must be
between 211/2–221/2 inches at the shoulders and weigh 55 to 65 lbs.
Dogs who are taller or shorter than those heights by up to one-half
inch are penalized in the show ring. Dogs who are larger or smaller
than that are disqualified.
The Golden Retriever head is broad with a prominent point
where the dog’s muzzle meets the eyebrows. The muzzle is straight
and not sloped when viewed from the side. The Golden’s eyes are
friendly. Dark brown eyes are preferred but medium brown is
acceptable. The eyes should be medium-large and round, not slanted
or triangular. You should not see the whites of the eyes when look-
ing at his face straight on. Eyelid problems that cause eyelid or eye-
lash abnormalities are a disqualification. Ears should be short—just
long enough to cover the eye if pulled forward—and shouldn’t hang
low like a hound’s ears. Nose must be black or brownish black and
may fade slightly in the winter. Pink noses are a fault. Bite must be a
scissors bite. Overshot or undershot bites are a disqualification. The
dog must have all his teeth or is severely penalized in the show ring.

Retriever Rewards
Overshot bite A bite in which the incisors of the upper jaw
leave a gap between them and the incisors of the lower jaw
when the mouth is closed.
Scissors bite A bite in which the incisors of the upper jaw lay just in
front of the incisors of the lower jaw when the mouth is closed and
there is no space.
Undershot bite A bite in which the lower incisors are in front of the
upper incisors when the mouth is closed.
Undercoat A layer of fur beneath the top coat that insulates and
keeps a dog warm. It sheds out periodically, usually twice yearly.
Chapter 1: Gold Medal Goldens 15

The Golden’s body should be proportionately built for work.


The neck should be medium long; the shoulders should be angular
so that they’re at approximately a 45° angle from the chest to the
shoulders when looking at the dog in profile. The chest should be
deep, and the back should be level. The rear end should slope
slightly as it reaches the tail, and the pelvic bones should slope at
about a 30° angle. Anything other than a level back or a rear end
that doesn’t slope or slopes too much is a fault. A narrow chest or a
chest that has flat sides is also a fault.
A Golden’s tail should be carried high, and although a slight
curve is acceptable, a curled tail isn’t. Feet should be round,
medium-sized, with thick pads. Splayed feet or oval feet are faults.
A Golden’s coat should be dense and water-repellant with a good
undercoat. The coat can be straight or wavy but shouldn’t be either
harsh or soft. Goldens should have a ruff and feathering on the back
of the legs, throat, underbody, and tail. The coat on the head, front
of legs, and paws should be short. Dogs without an undercoat, with
hair that is too long, or with very soft coats are faulted.
The Golden’s color is naturally golden with every shade in
between. Extremely pale or dark is a fault. White is a fault, with the
exception of a few white hairs on the chest. Any other color is a
fault.
When moving, the Golden’s gait is a fluid trot.
The Golden temperament is friendly, reliable, and trustworthy.
Aggressiveness or fearfulness toward people and dogs is a fault.

The Least You Need to Know


≠ Golden Retrievers are the second most popular dogs and num-
ber two in registrations with the American Kennel Club.
≠ Goldens are known for good temperament and trainability,
provided that they come from a reputable source.
16 Part 1: Introduction to the Golden Retriever

≠ You’ll need a fenced-in backyard or kennel to contain your


Golden, and you’ll need to exercise him daily.
≠ Goldens excel in obedience, hunting, therapy, and assistance
dog work.
≠ Golden Retrievers are defined by a standard set by the Golden
Retriever Club of America and the American Kennel Club.
≠ Pet-quality Goldens are in no way inferior as pets to show-
quality Goldens.
Chapter

2
Golden Opportunity—
Looking for the
Right Golden
In This Chapter
≠ Learning where you can purchase a quality Golden puppy
≠ Defining a reputable breeder
≠ Finding the right Golden for you
≠ Adopting a Golden Retriever from a shelter or rescue group
≠ Introducing your Golden to kids, dogs, and other pets
≠ Buying more than one

By now, you’re thinking that this might be your golden oppor-


tunity to bring a Golden Retriever into your life. But before you do,
are you ready for the big responsibility ahead? Puppies (and adult
dogs) take time to raise and train.
18 Part 1: Introduction to the Golden Retriever

You need to know where to get your Golden Retriever. Not just
anywhere will do. Puppy mills and backyard breeders abound—you
need to know where to get a Golden Retriever who is healthy and
has a good personality.
In this chapter, we talk about where to get your Golden Re-
triever, and whether to get a puppy or adult, breeder or rescue, or
pet or show quality. We also discuss who to contact to find the best
Golden Retriever for you and your family.

Ir-retrieve-able Consequences—Why
Knowledge Is Golden
Golden Retrievers are great dogs. Many Golden owners will say
they’re the best dogs around. But Goldens are still dogs and require
a big commitment from you. Goldens require food, water, shelter,
exercise, and attention every day and require regular veterinary care,
training, and grooming. Puppies need even more, requiring constant
attention, housetraining, and obedience training.
Golden Retrievers are naturally people dogs. They need more
attention than a lot of other breeds. It’s important to decide whether
or not a Golden will fit into your busy lifestyle now, before you
purchase a puppy or an adult. If you don’t have a single minute to
yourself, how are you going to have time for a pet?
Here are some questions to think about:
≠ Are you willing to rearrange your lifestyle to accommodate an
animal that is dependent solely on you? Remember, a healthy
Golden will live, on average, 10 to 15 years.
≠ Are you able to financially afford to care for your pet? The cost
of a puppy does not end at its purchase price. Your Golden will
require ongoing food and veterinary expenses throughout its
life. Puppies and elderly dogs generally will incur more ex-
penses than healthy adults.
Chapter 2: Golden Opportunity—Looking for the Right Golden 19

≠ Does everyone in the household want a Golden (or a dog at


all)? All members of the family must agree on a new pet.
≠ Is anyone in your family allergic to dogs? Don’t purchase a
Golden Retriever hoping that the person with allergies might
be able to tolerate him. Have the allergic person visit someone
with Goldens to see whether the Golden Retriever sets off his
allergies.
≠ Who will take care of your Golden? The Golden must be the
responsibility of an adult in the household. Children cannot
be depended on to take care of a living, breathing animal.
≠ Do you have a fenced-in backyard that is dig-proof, climb-
proof, and jump-proof?
≠ Are you willing to take your Golden for a daily walk or other
exercise? Goldens are active dogs.
≠ Are you willing to go to obedience classes to train and socialize
a puppy?
≠ Are you able to leave your Golden no longer than nine hours
alone or to hire a pet sitter to walk her?
≠ Are you able to give your Golden attention every day?
≠ Are you willing to put up with muddy paw prints on your
clothing and carpets?
≠ Are you able to tolerate the destructiveness associated with a
dog? Puppies and dogs may chew the wrong things or dig in
the yard. Puppies don’t come housebroken, and even the adult
dog may have an occasional accident.
≠ Are you able to make plans for your Golden if you go on a
business trip or on vacation?
≠ Do you have other commitments you have to fulfill that may
leave you scrambling to take care of your dog (college, armed
forces, and so on)?
20 Part 1: Introduction to the Golden Retriever

If you’ve never owned a dog before, you may look at these ques-
tions and wonder whether I’m exaggerating the magnitude of the
responsibility. I’m not. Unfortunately, too many people purchase a
dog without realizing the basic owner responsibilities.

No Biscuit!
Many would-be puppy owners forget that puppies don’t come
housetrained, expect that their children will care for a puppy, or think that
the person with allergies in their home will suddenly not be allergic to their
Golden Retriever. These are three of many reasons why perfectly wonderful
dogs end up in shelters and with Golden Retriever rescue groups.

Disreputable Breeders
Golden Retrievers are the second most popular purebred dog for
several reasons, including the overall versatility and the charming
personality of the Golden. But that popularity has a downside. Some
people breed Goldens for money only—they aren’t looking to sell
you a healthy or well-adjusted pet.
It’s generally a good idea to stay away from any place that pro-
duces a high number of puppies. Reputable breeders and dog rescue
groups call these places “puppy mills” because they churn out puppies
for profit. A puppy mill usually has
several different breeds but may
Retriever Rewards
have just one. The conditions in
Decide up front what
you intend to do with many puppy mills are substandard.
your Retriever, whether it’s con- Puppy bitches are frequently bred
formation, hunting, obedience, during their first heat (at six to
or just a pet. That will help you eight months of age) and are bred
determine where to look for your
each subsequent heat cycle there-
new Golden. Do your research
now. A breeder who produces after. Some are kept in small, filthy
great working Retrievers may not kennels. Puppies are often taken
have winners in the conforma- away from their mothers too young
tion show ring. and are poorly socialized. Puppies
Chapter 2: Golden Opportunity—Looking for the Right Golden 21

raised in these conditions frequently have internal and external para-


sites. Their parents were never screened for genetic diseases. No
thought is given to bettering the breed. The dogs are not bred to
the standard and, therefore, quite often you will find dogs that differ
greatly from dogs seen at shows.
Some puppy mills disguise themselves as reputable breeders.
When you see an ad for Goldens that advertises “Puppies Always
Available,” chances are great that it’s a puppy mill. Reputable breed-
ers seldom breed more than two litters a year. Some puppy mills, if
they offer a guarantee, may impose conditions that are difficult to
meet, such as feeding the puppy unusual diets or severely limiting
the puppy’s exercise.
What about the backyard breeder? This is most likely the first
time he’s bred his two Goldens. He didn’t neuter them, and he
probably purchased them from a puppy mill or another backyard
breeder because he thinks that the word “purebred” means “valu-
able.” He might want to recoup the high price he paid for his dogs.
He might have lost the papers a long time ago, or maybe he bred his
bitch to his neighbor’s Golden who has no papers. It doesn’t matter;
they’re purebred, right? “Hips checked” means he asked the veteri-
narian whether his Golden’s hips looked okay. He sees the high
prices people sell dogs for in the newspaper, so he thinks he can sell
them at the same price. The problem is the pups are now six weeks
old, and he didn’t realize how expensive and time-consuming they
were to raise. His wife is mad because he hasn’t sold the puppies yet,
and they’ve become active. They’ve climbed out of the whelping box
and into everything—and they aren’t housebroken. He’ll sell one to
you at a real bargain.
But is it a bargain? Although this fellow is well intentioned, he
doesn’t know what his puppies will be like. He hasn’t chosen to
breed to the standard, so his puppies may look different than what
you might expect. If he bred to a dog without papers, the puppies
might not even be purebred Golden Retrievers. His puppies could
22 Part 1: Introduction to the Golden Retriever

have hip dysplasia, eye problems, elbow dysplasia, or other diseases.


He hasn’t vaccinated the pups, nor has he wormed them. He doesn’t
know much beyond the puppies’
parents. He won’t offer a guarantee,
Golden Glossary and he certainly won’t take a puppy
Hip dysplasia A hered- back. If he can’t sell his pups, he’ll
itary malformation of the drop them off at the local animal
hip bones.
shelter because his dreams of profits
Elbow dysplasia Malformation
may not have been realized. It’s
of the elbow joint.
been a lot of work for a few hundred
dollars.
What about the pet store? Pet stores are not good places to buy
dogs because most buy their dogs wholesale from commercial breed-
ers and puppy mills. Occasionally, they might pick up a backyard
breeder’s litter or sell some mixed-breed puppies, but you can almost
always expect that if the breeder isn’t placing the puppies himself,
the breeder isn’t responsible.

Reputable Breeders
Reputable breeders are sometimes called hobbyist breeders. That means
they aren’t breeding dogs specifically for the money. Instead, they’re
looking to produce top show and working dogs and are trying to
improve the breed. If you are planning to buy a Golden Retriever,
you should buy your Golden only
Golden Glossary from a reputable breeder. Purchasing
Hobbyist breeders your dog from other sources encour-
Another name for rep- ages these sources to continue breed-
utable breeders. ing substandard dogs.

What’s a Reputable Breeder?


You’ll hear me talk a lot about reputable and responsible breeders
and how you should look for a reputable breeder when purchasing a
Chapter 2: Golden Opportunity—Looking for the Right Golden 23

Golden Retriever puppy. But what exactly does a reputable breeder


do that’s so different and so special?
First and foremost, reputable breeders aren’t breeding Golden
Retrievers for the money. As hokey as it might sound, they’ve fallen
in love with the breed and want to improve the breed any way they
can. That means producing the best dogs possible.
These people are fanatics (in a good sense). They have books
of photos of their Goldens; trophies and ribbons lining their walls.
They’ll beam as they tell you that their granddog got his OTCH
and is going for his MACH (high-level obedience and agility titles,
in case you’re wondering). You’ll look at photos not only of your
prospective puppy’s parents, but of his grandparents, cousins, aunts,
and uncles, and just about every dog ever related to him. The par-
ents will have the championships or will be working toward titles in
breed, hunting, obedience, tracking, or agility.

© Joe Johnson

The Golden makes an excellent hunting dog.

Responsible breeders don’t breed their dogs often, and puppies


aren’t always available. Most reputable breeders have a waiting list
for their puppies and screen their buyers rigorously.
24 Part 1: Introduction to the Golden Retriever

When you purchase a puppy from a reputable breeder, you pur-


chase a puppy with a known history. The breeder will offer you help
and advice in training issues and will take an active interest in your
pet. You are not on your own if you have training difficulties.
It’s hard to find a reputable breeder, and it may be harder yet
to pass their screening test for puppy buyers. These breeders want
to be sure that your home is as good as their own. They want to
be sure the puppies match with their new owners’ lifestyles and per-
sonalities.
Quite often puppies from reputable breeders will cost the same
as puppies from backyard breeders, pet stores, or puppy mills. But
reputable breeders will guarantee the health of their dogs and refund
money or offer a replacement should there be a problem.

Health Certifications
Which brings us to the topic of health certifications. Reputable
breeders screen for hereditary diseases. Because Golden Retrievers
are so popular, many are being bred without thought to what
genetic diseases they may be passing along to their puppies. These
diseases include hip dysplasia (HD), elbow dysplasia (ED) osteo-
chondritis dissecans (OCD), cataracts, hypothyroidism, subvalvular
aortic stenosis (SAS), and tricuspid valve dysplasia (TVD).

Golden Glossary
Osteochondritis dissecans A painful condition that is often
associated with elbow dysplasia, quite often hereditary or
congenital.
Subvalvular aortic stenosis Malformation of the heart caused by
congenital or hereditary reasons.
Tricuspid valve dysplasia Malformation of one of the valves in the
heart caused by congenital or hereditary reasons.
Chapter 2: Golden Opportunity—Looking for the Right Golden 25

© Barbara Gurlek
The Golden’s breeder should certify your Golden against hip dysplasia, eye problems,
and heart problems. This is Denver, owned by Barbara Gurlek.

Almost all breeds now have genetic problems such as hip dyspla-
sia and progressive retinal atrophy (PRA). Irresponsible breeders
may tell you they don’t need to screen for hip dysplasia and eye
problems because genetic diseases are rare in Goldens.
Don’t believe it! Golden Retrievers have a high incidence of
genetic diseases, due in part to puppy mill and backyard breeders’
breeding practices. Don’t accept
statements such as “He’s had his No Biscuit!
hips and eyes checked,” or “He According to the
doesn’t have any genetic diseases.” Orthopedic Foundation for
Animals (OFA), more than one
Ask for proof. out of five Goldens have hip
OFA (or PennHIP) and CERF dysplasia. The number is no
doubt higher because OFA is
are two certifications that both
a voluntary registry, and many
puppies’ parents must have. CERF people who have dogs with hip
(the Canine Eye Registration dysplasia choose not to report it.
Foundation) certifies that the eyes
26 Part 1: Introduction to the Golden Retriever

are clear of disease. (This is a PASS or FAIL test—be sure it is PASS.)


This test must be updated yearly. OFA (the Orthopedic Foundation
for Animals) offers a variety of health certifications including hip,
heart, thyroid, and elbow certification. Reputable breeders will, at
minimum, have their dogs certified free of hip dysplasia. Many will
have elbows certified as well, because Goldens are prone to elbow
dysplasia. OFA and PennHIP certification lasts for the life of the dog.
According to OFA rankings, Golden Retrievers are fourteenth
on the list for prevalence of cardiac problems and twelfth for thyroid
abnormalities. Because OFA is a
voluntary registry, only conscien-
Retriever Rewards
Select puppies
tious owners and breeders have
whose parents’ hips tested and registered their dogs; the
were certified OFA GOOD or overall percentages of cardiac and
EXCELLENT only. thyroid abnormalities are likely to
be higher. When looking for a
Golden, be sure the breeder has
Retriever Rewards OFA cardiac and thyroid certifica-
Both OFA and CERF tion on the puppy’s parents.
have online data-
bases to search for certified The minimal certifications your
dogs. You can find your pro- prospective puppy’s parents should
spective puppy’s parents by have are OFA Hips, OFA Cardiac,
searching the breed and for the and CERF eyes. Other certifica-
dog’s registered name—or even
part of the dog’s registered tions, such as PennHIP and OFA
name—at www.offa.org and Thyroid and Elbows, may become
www.vmdb.org/cerf.html. more important as more Goldens
crop up with hereditary diseases.

Where to Find the Reputable Breeder


As I’ve previously stated, finding a reputable breeder can be
difficult—unless you know where to look. The best place to start is
with the Golden Retriever Club of America. They have a breeder
Chapter 2: Golden Opportunity—Looking for the Right Golden 27

referral program that will put you in touch with a breeder who is
affiliated with the Golden Retriever Club of America.
Your work doesn’t end there. You have to grill the breeder to
determine whether he or she is reputable. Don’t worry! A reputable
breeder won’t be put off by your questions—they’ll welcome the
chance to educate you about themselves and Golden Retrievers.
Here are some questions to ask the reputable breeder:
≠ “Do you belong to the Golden Retriever Club of America or
to a local club?”
≠ “How long have you been involved with Goldens?” Backyard
breeders are usually new at breeding Goldens, but not always.
Occasionally, you will find someone who is reputable who is
breeding his first litter; he should also be very involved in
showing Goldens.
≠ “Do you have only one or two breeds that you breed?” Rep-
utable breeders focus on one or two breeds to improve the
standard.
≠ “Do the puppy’s parents have conformation, obedience, hunt-
ing, or agility titles?” A quality Golden should have or be
working toward a title. If the parents are not titled, how close
are they to obtaining titles?
≠ “How did you choose the stud dog?” Was it a dog he had
on hand, or did he search for the right dog to breed to his
own female? He shouldn’t have bred his female to what was
available, but rather, looked for a dog that would improve
the conformation and bloodline of his stock.
≠ “Can you provide photographs and information concerning the
parents, grandparents, great-grandparents, uncles, aunts, and
cousins of the puppies?” If she cannot tell you about these
dogs, then how is she able to breed a quality Golden Retriever?
28 Part 1: Introduction to the Golden Retriever

≠ “Do you have OFA (or PennHIP) and CERF certification on


both parents?”
≠ “Why did you breed these two Goldens?” The answer should
be, to produce puppies that will improve the Golden Retriever
breed. Often, the breeder will keep one or two puppies to see
whether they will turn out as show prospects, but occasionally
the breeder will not keep a puppy because they did not turn out
the way she thought they would. Never buy a Golden puppy
from someone who is breeding dogs to make a profit. Don’t
buy a puppy from someone who wanted a Golden just like her
own pet or because her Golden is “so sweet.”
≠ “How old are the puppies’ parents?” Neither parent should be
bred before two years old. They cannot have their OFA certifi-
cation until that time.
≠ “When were the puppies
No Biscuit! wormed and vaccinated?” A
Ask to see the reputable breeder will either
original health documents, not worm the puppies or have a
photocopies. Some unscrupulous veterinarian perform a fecal
breeders photocopy the original
analysis on the puppies to
documents and then change
the dogs’ names. determine whether worms are
present. Puppies should have
received their first vaccinations
at five to six weeks of age.
≠ “When is the earliest you will allow me to take a puppy?” The
youngest a puppy should leave its mother is eight weeks old.
No exceptions. The puppy must spend time with its mother and
littermates to properly socialize it with other dogs. Before this
time, the puppy may be very insecure and stunted in its emo-
tional development.
≠ “What items will you provide when I’m ready to take my
Golden home?” The breeder should provide you with informa-
tion on raising and training a Golden, the puppy contract, the
Chapter 2: Golden Opportunity—Looking for the Right Golden 29

AKC registration papers (which you must send in), copies of


the parents’ OFA and CERF certification, a sample of the
puppy food she has been feeding the puppies, a record of vacci-
nations and worming, a vaccination schedule, a pedigree, and
any other information she thinks might be useful to a new
puppy owner. Some breeders may include a toy to help ease
the puppy into its new home.
≠ “Can you provide me with references?” The breeder should be
able to provide you with names and phone numbers of other
members of the Golden Retriever Club of America or a local
club and people who have bought puppies who will gladly
vouch for this breeder.

Finally, remember that a reputable breeder will not press you to


buy a puppy. She will first try to educate you about what it means to
own a Golden Retriever. She will tell you about the good points and
the shortcomings of the breed.
She may ask for references. Don’t Golden Glimmers
be insulted if she sounds like she Much of AKC paperwork
is grilling you. She wants to be depends on the reputation and
absolutely certain that this Golden honesty of the breeder. The
breeder must attest to the fact
puppy will fit in with your family
that the puppies are indeed
and your particular situation. If the offspring of a particular
she tells you, “There’s only one male and female. This is why
left, you better buy it”—don’t. buying a puppy from a rep-
There are other litters from rep- utable breeder is very impor-
tant.
utable breeders.

What Are “Papers”?


You’ve probably heard about “papers”; that is, the AKC registration.
You may be wondering why papers are important when it comes to
purebred dogs. The AKC registration is the proof that your Golden
is a registered purebred.
30 Part 1: Introduction to the Golden Retriever

The AKC registration is not a symbol of quality. It does not


mean that your Golden is somehow very valuable or more valuable
than anyone else’s. It does not mean your Golden is show quality. It
does not mean your Golden is healthy or well bred. It just means
your puppy is a purebred registered with the AKC.
If you really don’t care about papers, save yourself the money
and get a dog from a rescue group or the shelter. You’ll save some
money and still have a great companion. However, many people
do want a purebred. The only way to prove your dog is a registered
purebred is to purchase a Golden Retriever from a reputable
breeder and then register it with the AKC.
Breeders refer to the AKC registration form as “puppy papers”
or “blue slips.” On this form, which you get from the breeder, you
will find a place to fill in your Golden’s name and your name, your
dog’s date of birth and parentage, and a place where both you and
the breeder must sign to indicate a transfer of ownership. The
papers also have a checkbox the breeder may check if the puppy is to
have a limited registration. If checked, this means the offspring of
this dog cannot be registered with the AKC. This is to discourage
people from breeding dogs that the breeder believes should not be
part of a conscientious breeding program. If the puppy grows up to
be an exceptional dog, the breeder (and only the breeder) has the
option of rescinding this limited registration.
Remember, even if you have puppy papers from the breeder,
your Golden isn’t officially registered with the AKC. You must fill
out the appropriate boxes and send the form to the AKC along with
the registration fee. You will get an official registration back in the
mail in a few weeks. If you do not send in this form to the AKC,
your puppy will not be registered.
Don’t confuse the pedigree with the registration. The pedigree
is the puppy’s family tree. (See “What’s a Pedigree?” later in this
chapter.)
Chapter 2: Golden Opportunity—Looking for the Right Golden 31

Don’t accept the breeder’s word that you’ll receive the puppy
papers later in the mail. You’ll have no recourse if the breeder
doesn’t provide you with the papers when you purchase the puppy.

Golden Glimmers
Four types of AKC registration are available to Goldens. The most
common is Full Registration, which people often call the AKC
“papers.” Limited Registration is full registration of the dog but speci-
fies that none of its puppies can be registered. Breeders use this to
enforce spay/neuter contracts. A third registration is the Litter
Registration—often called “puppy papers” or “blue slips.” This is a
temporary registration of all the puppies in a litter. The fourth is the
Indefinite Listing Privilege or ILP Registration. When the dog’s pure-
bred pedigree cannot be proven, but the dog is obviously purebred,
an ILP registration enables the dog to compete in obedience, agility,
and other activities, with the exception of conformation.

AKC and Other Breed Registries


I talk a lot about the American Kennel Club in this book. You may
wonder whether the AKC is the only legitimate breed registry. It’s
not, but it is the largest and most influential breed registry in the
United States. The second biggest registry in the United States is
the United Kennel Club (UKC). If your Golden Retriever is pure-
bred and from United States stock, your Golden should be regis-
tered with one of these two registries.
If you are in Canada or if your Golden comes from Canadian
bloodlines, your dog may be registered with the Canadian Kennel
Club (CKC) or the Kennel Club (KC) of Great Britain.
If your Golden is registered to a breed registry other than AKC
or UKC, you should contact the Golden Retriever Club of America
and ask whether the registry of the prospective puppy you’re buying
is legitimate. Some puppy mills have made up their own registries to
avoid having to comply with the AKC’s rules.
32 Part 1: Introduction to the Golden Retriever

What’s a Pedigree?
A pedigree is a fancy word for a family tree. That means every
Golden (and in fact, every dog, including mutts) has one. There’s
really nothing special about having a pedigree.

Retriever Rewards
What’s in a name? Well, breeders are funny folk and love
to give their dogs fun names. That’s why you’ll see so many
weird names on pedigrees. The standard way of naming is to begin
with the kennel name of the breeder, followed by another name. For
example, with my own dog, Kiana, her name was Snopeak Kiana
of Sky Warrior. Snopeak was the breeder’s kennel name and Kiana
of Sky Warrior was the name I gave her.
Often, breeders will insist that, on the dog’s registration papers, you
use the name they have chosen, because they give their litters names
that have meaning to them and indicate the litter’s place in their breed-
ing program. This is your dog’s registered name, but it doesn’t have
to be what you call him. Another dog I own has the name Belle’s
Lachlan’s Black Dragon, but her call name is Haegl.

With registered dogs, the AKC (or in some cases, the UKC)
keeps track of your Golden’s pedigree, which means you can get an
official certificate that lists it. Nothing differentiates a good pedigree
and a bad pedigree when it comes to the registration. That’s up to
you to figure out. Just because your Golden has a five-generation
pedigree doesn’t mean those ancestors were great dogs, worthy
of being bred. In fact, on many pedigrees you’ll see impressive-
sounding names, but the dogs were products of puppy mills or worse.
On a pedigree, the name of the dog, breed, and birth date
appear in the top left corner. The dog’s sex, registration number,
and breeder are in the upper right. You read from left to right. The
dog on the top left is the sire (father); the dog on the bottom left is
the dam (mother). To the right are four more names, presented in
Chapter 2: Golden Opportunity—Looking for the Right Golden 33

two pairs. Those are the dog’s grandparents (the male is always the
top name in the pair). The two on top are the paternal grandpar-
ents; the two on the bottom are the maternal grandparents. The
next row is the great-grandparents, with each grandparent’s sire and
dam. And so on.
But how do you tell whether this is a good pedigree? By looking
at the titles next to the dogs’ names. The AKC abbreviates titles
such as Champion, Field Trial Champion, and Obedience, Agility, and
Tracking titles and puts them on the pedigrees.

Golden Glossary
Champion Abbreviated CH or Ch. A dog that earns 15
points in conformation dog shows, including 3 points or better
under two different judges.
Field Trial Champion Abbreviated FC. A hunting title obtained when
the dog wins either a National Championship Stake or 10 points in
Open All-Age, Limited All-Age, Special All-Age, or Restricted All-Age
competition.

Nature AND Nurture: Reputable Breeder = Healthy Pups


Because reputable breeders care so much for their Goldens, they
consider their dogs and their puppies to be members of the family.
These breeders raise their puppies in a caring and nurturing envi-
ronment. Their pups are properly socialized.
Although no one can predict the future, most reputable breeders
will stake their reputation on their puppies. Occasionally, genetics
and other factors come into play, and you’ll find a sick puppy from a
reputable breeder, but the breeder is willing to make amends at that
point by either replacing the puppy or offering a refund.
34 Part 1: Introduction to the Golden Retriever

The Contract
Ask the breeder whether he or she has a contract. The contract is
your bill of sale. The AKC papers are not a bill of sale. If the breeder
does not have a contract, look elsewhere.
The contract is important because it protects you if something
goes wrong. Every reputable breeder has a “Right of First Refusal”
or “First Right of Refusal” in their contract. This means the breeder
has the option of taking back the dog. However, be careful if there is
only a “Right of First Refusal” in the contract, with no guarantee of
doing so. Some breeders use this clause to look responsible, but they
treat it as an option—namely, it simply gives them the right to take
back the puppy but doesn’t guarantee that they will.
A truly reputable breeder will take the Golden back under any
condition and will state so in the contract. That means three weeks
or three years from now, the breeder will take back the Golden if it
isn’t working out. Most breeders have a limited clause on a refund,
so don’t expect to get your money back after a year.
In the contract, the breeder should also guarantee his puppy free
from illnesses, parasites, and the hereditary defects he can screen
for (no one can guarantee a puppy to be free from all hereditary
defects). Again, most of these guarantees have reasonable time lim-
its. Breeders usually require the owners to take their puppy to the
vet within the first week to ensure the puppy’s health. Most breeders
will replace or refund at the breeder’s discretion—small consolation
if your Golden has a heart condition, and you are already attached
to him. That is why it is very important to do your leg work and
make certain the breeder has screened for these diseases.
In the contract, a reputable breeder will stipulate that you must
adequately care for the puppy and will require that you must never
allow your Golden puppy to run at large. The contract should not
have stud rights or requirements for breeding or showing the dog,
unless this is something you’ve agreed to before seeing the contract.
Chapter 2: Golden Opportunity—Looking for the Right Golden 35

The contract should not have a requirement for a strange diet or


extreme limitation of exercise.
If a breeder sells your Golden as a pet-quality dog, you may
have a spay/neuter clause in your contract. If you are planning to
show your Golden in conformation, request that the breeder remove
this clause and explain why. If the puppy isn’t show quality, then the
breeder may suggest another puppy or breeder. Otherwise, if your
puppy is intended to be a pet, this is a normal clause, and you should
spay or neuter the puppy.

No Biscuit!
Some disreputable breeders will demand stud rights or have
requirements for breeding in their contract. Unless this is something you’ve
agreed to beforehand, don’t accept it.
Furthermore, some disreputable breeders will guarantee the health of your
Golden, but only with caveats such as strange diets or extreme limitation
of exercise. Disreputable breeders use these clauses to nullify the contract.

Shelters and Rescue Groups


Another place to find a Golden Retriever is at the local animal shel-
ter or “pound.” You may be surprised to hear that one out of four
dogs at the pound are purebred, and many are Goldens and Golden
mixes. Approximately five million pets end up in local shelters and
rescue groups annually, including many young Goldens.
Owners give up their dogs for a variety of reasons. Those who
work in rescue have heard it all: the owners didn’t have the time;
their child had allergies; the dog couldn’t be trained for whatever
reason; or maybe the owners just remodeled the house and the dog
didn’t fit with the décor. Whatever the reason, if the dog is in a shel-
ter that puts down dogs it cannot place (often called a kill shelter),
that dog has a good chance of being put down, especially if it is
more than two years old. Puppies tend to find homes more quickly.
36 Part 1: Introduction to the Golden Retriever

There are positives and negatives to adopting a dog at the shel-


ter. The biggest negative is quite often that you don’t know the dog’s
history. The dog may have an unseen hereditary medical condition
that may show up later. The dog may have learned bad habits from
owners who didn’t take the time to properly train him. Most dogs
coming from shelters don’t have their papers. This is not a place to
find a conformation champion; however, the AKC will issue ILP
(Indefinite Listing Privileges) numbers for dogs that look purebred.
ILP dogs can compete in obedience, agility, and other sports, al-
though not conformation.
The positives of adopting a pound dog or puppy are overwhelm-
ing. For one thing, you’ve saved a life and made space for another
unwanted pet to have a chance at a new home. Adult dogs are usu-
ally housetrained or can be housebroken more easily than puppies.
Adult dogs can bond just as closely to their new owners as puppies,
so don’t discount an adult because you’re afraid he won’t bond to
you. What’s more—now you have an adult dog you can train in
retrieving, agility, or other activities that puppies can’t participate
in until they are fully grown.
If you do have your heart set on a puppy, sometimes purebred
Golden puppies are available at the pound. Many are older, but a
few are from litters from backyard breeders who thought they could
make a quick buck breeding their Golden Retriever and found out
they could not.
Another place to find Golden Retrievers is through Golden
Retriever rescue. These folks are volunteers who look to place
Goldens in good homes. Like reputable breeders, Golden rescue
screens its applicants. They may place dogs from shelters, dogs from
reputable breeders whose owners returned them, or dogs seized
from puppy mills. Sometimes Golden rescue will know the history
of the dogs and puppies they place. Some may actually have papers
to go along with the dog.
Chapter 2: Golden Opportunity—Looking for the Right Golden 37

Finding the Right Golden


Finding the right Golden is a bit like finding the right mate. You
need to be compatible in order to make the relationship last. A
Golden Retriever is a 10- to 15-year commitment—do your leg
work to be certain you find the right match. Otherwise, your
Golden will end up the loser.
Think about the people you like and dislike. I’m sure there were
people you’ve known who were nice enough but who drove you
crazy. Make sure that your new Golden’s personality isn’t one of
those. For example, if you’re normally quiet, maybe a boisterous dog
isn’t for you. Or if you’re always on the go, maybe an active Golden
Retriever will add to the fun. Think about what you want to do with
your Golden and look for the right personality.

Puppy or Adult?
Puppies are cute; there’s no doubt about it, but they’re a lot of work.
Every time I get a puppy, I’m reminded just how much work they
can be. Puppies need training, socialization, and attention. Puppies
aren’t housebroken, which means you have to take the time to
housebreak them properly. Puppies also require a series of vaccina-
tions, check-ups, and a spay or neuter operation when they’re old
enough.
Puppies are also more active and naturally destructive, especially
when teething. Anything is fair game to a puppy, so expect a fair
amount of destructive behavior.
However, most people prefer puppies to adults. Puppies are, for
the most part, a “clean slate.” They haven’t learned any bad habits
yet. If trained and socialized properly, most well-bred puppies turn
into excellent companions. Puppies are also so cute that it’s hard to
resist one.
38 Part 1: Introduction to the Golden Retriever

If you don’t have the time for a puppy, consider an adult dog.
Most adults are housebroken and may know some obedience com-
mands. Occasionally, reputable breeders may have an adult dog
available. The Golden might be a show prospect that didn’t work
out or a return from a previous litter. Many breeders will sell their
adult dogs to good homes for a lower price than their puppies.
On the downside, adult dogs may have learned bad habits from
previous owners. You also won’t have the fun of seeing your puppy
grow into an adult. However, unless there’s something seriously
wrong with the adult Golden, you’ll find that he will bond just as
quickly as a puppy. (The key to bonding is the amount of time you
spend with a dog.)
Whichever you decide, puppy or adult, your new Golden will
need training and attention.

Male or Female?
Male or female is strictly a personal preference. The Golden Re-
triever Club of America states that no real difference exists between
the personalities of a male and a female Golden Retriever. Even so,
you may find differences between the sexes.
Males may be larger and more boisterous. They may mark their
territory with urine if not properly trained.
Female Goldens may be more compliant. They are less likely to
challenge you for dominance. Female Goldens are generally smaller
than males. Twice a year, females go into estrus or heat if they are
not spayed. During this time, your Golden will attract male dogs. It
is important to keep your female Golden contained safely away from
these unwanted suitors during this time.
If you purchase your Golden from a reputable breeder, the
breeder may select a puppy for you according to its personality,
rather than sex. The puppy’s personality is more important than its
Chapter 2: Golden Opportunity—Looking for the Right Golden 39

color or sex when determining whether or not it is going to the


right home.

Work, Show, or Pet?


What do you intend to do with your Golden Retriever? Show him
in conformation shows? Work him either in hunting or retriever tri-
als? Or maybe you’re just looking for a good all-around pet. What-
ever it is, look for the right Golden for the job. Some breeders breed
strictly for working or show, but some breed for multiple purposes.
Ask.
When you’re looking for a Golden for a specific purpose, ask
what titles the puppies’ parents have obtained. I’ve never met a
reputable breeder who wasn’t delighted to show you photos of the
parents, grandparents, and relatives in the working or show environ-
ment. Most will haul out stacks of photo albums of their “kids”
performing in the field or the ring. You may end up spending hours
looking at endless photos of Goldens whose names are long with
titles that are even longer! Although you may come out of the ses-
sion bleary-eyed, you’ll know you’ve found someone whose Goldens
are their passion and who is very proud of their dogs’ accomplish-
ments.
Both show and working lines are fine places to look for pets. But
be careful! Some dogs from working lines can be more active, due to
the energy needed for successful working ability. Talk with breeders
to find out whether puppies from their lines are more active.

Kids and Dogs


Golden Retrievers are great with kids—up to a point. Any dog,
no matter how gentle, will bite if it is scared or in pain. Too often,
parents throw a dog in with the kids and are shocked when the dog
bites.
40 Part 1: Introduction to the Golden Retriever

© Carolyn Risdon
The Golden Retriever is normally good with kids, but he must be of good
temperament and well socialized. This is Doc Holiday and Anthony Green.

If you have kids, be certain that now is the right time to get a
dog. A big dog such as a Golden can accidentally injure a toddler
or small child by knocking him over or whapping him with its tail.
Even an easygoing breed such as the Golden can bite and injure
a child if the child handles the puppy roughly or hurts him uninten-
tionally.
Children must learn to respect the puppy as a living, breathing
creature. At a young age, it’s hard for a child to learn the difference
between a puppy and a stuffed toy. Even the most well-intentioned
child can hurt a puppy or dog enough to have it bite. For this rea-
son, never leave a child alone with a dog.

No Biscuit!
Don’t expect your children to take responsibility for your
Golden. Even the most responsible kids forget things, like letting the dog
out or feeding him. Your new puppy needs an adult to take responsibility
for its welfare. You are going to be the person responsible for training,
socializing, and caring for your Golden.
Chapter 2: Golden Opportunity—Looking for the Right Golden 41

Two’s Company
If one Golden puppy is more fun, certainly two’s company? Right?
Perhaps—if you want insanity.
If you’ve owned two dogs before, then going to a multi-dog
household isn’t that big of a deal. But if this is your first dog or if
you’ve never owned two dogs before, watch out! Sure, they’ll keep
each other company. They’ll also egg each other on.
Although Goldens aren’t as dominance-oriented as other
breeds—the most notable being Northern breeds such as Malamutes
and Siberian Huskies—they’re still dogs, and two makes a pack. And
what a pack! Twice the dogs; four times the mischief.
If you already have a dog, adding a new dog may be trying. If
your dog is used to being number one, you may have squabbles or
even fights. Although Goldens are easygoing, the newcomer may be
looked on as a threat to your first dog’s place in the pack. After all,
now you’re sharing your love and attention between two dogs, and
the first dog may feel neglected or left out.
If your first dog is normally aggressive toward other dogs (or of
a breed that is normally dog-aggressive), you may want to rethink
your decision to purchase a Golden. If your Golden is a puppy, it
could be seriously injured if the resident dog is large enough.
Sometimes getting a Golden Retriever who is the opposite sex
of the first dog helps—but not always. Dog fights can occur between
dogs of the opposite sex as well as the same sex.

The Least You Need to Know


≠ Purchase your Golden Retriever only from a reputable breeder
or adopt from an animal shelter or Golden Retriever rescue.
≠ Purchase a Golden puppy only from a breeder who screens the
parents for hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, eye diseases, and car-
diac and thyroid problems.
42 Part 1: Introduction to the Golden Retriever

≠ Your prospective puppy’s parents should have a GOOD or


EXCELLENT certification on hips from the Orthopedic
Foundation for Animals (OFA).
≠ Your prospective puppy’s parents should have a PASS certifica-
tion on eyes from the Canine Eye Registry Foundation
(CERF).
≠ An adult Golden may be an option if you are too busy for a
puppy.
≠ Don’t expect your kids to care for the puppy—you are the one
responsible.
Part

2 Selecting and
Bringing Home a
Golden Retriever
Congratulations! You’ve made the decision to bring a Golden into
your life. Purchasing or adopting a healthy, well-adjusted Golden
takes more than walking over to the local mall or looking through
the newspaper.
In Part 2, I discuss reputable breeders and how to choose a well-
adjusted puppy or adult Golden. I’ll also talk about what equipment
to purchase and how to puppy-proof or dog-proof your home. Last,
I’ll talk about the first few days with your new addition and about
crate training and housetraining.
Chapter

3
Retrieving the Golden
Treasure
In This Chapter
≠ Finding the best Golden puppy for you
≠ Selecting an adult Golden Retriever
≠ Determining a Golden with a good personality for your family
≠ Visiting the breeder

You’ve made your decision to either purchase a puppy from a


reputable breeder or to obtain a Golden from a rescue group or the
local shelter. Now, it’s your turn to visit the breeder or the rescue
home and meet your future Golden. But not all that glitters is
Golden. You need to find the right breeder and the right puppy
(or, if you’re searching for an older dog, you need to find the right
adoptable Golden).
It’s human nature to choose the first puppy that comes along.
After all, Golden puppies are adorable—who could say no to that
face? But be smart about this; a healthy Golden Retriever puppy
46 Part 2: Selecting and Bringing Home a Golden Retriever

will be as cute and cuddly as one who has underlying health problems.
The cute puppy phase lasts only a very short time—and soon you’ll
have an adult Golden.

Selecting the Perfect Puppy from the Litter


You’ve found a few breeders whom you think might be reputable
and have the kind of Goldens you’re looking for. Now it’s time to
visit the breeder. If the puppies aren’t born, the breeder may offer
to put you on a waiting list for pups. If the puppies are already born
but are still too young to take home, you’ll want to see the breeder’s
kennel anyway. The more you learn about the breeder and your
puppy’s background, the better.
Visiting the breeder is important because you’ll learn how she
cares for her dogs. A conscientious breeder is going to have friendly
and well-socialized dogs. The dogs should be healthy with shining
coats and happy personalities and should not look scraggly or ill. If
you see rows and rows of dogs who are sick, listless, or ill-kept, you
may be at a puppy mill. Do not buy a puppy here.
Breeders shouldn’t be reluctant
No Biscuit! to have you visit their kennels. All
Don’t be too eager their dogs should be approachable—
to purchase your Golden puppy even big males. If the breeder tells
from the first breeder you visit.
you that the dog is mean because
You may make a decision you’ll
later regret. Your first concern is he’s a stud dog, you may want to
whether the Golden puppies the reconsider purchasing a puppy
breeder is selling are healthy from him. You can expect a female
and have good temperaments. with puppies to be protective but
not aggressive.
If the breeder has puppies available, look at them. Healthy pup-
pies are everything you expect them to be: active, healthy-looking,
bright-eyed, and full of energy. Sick puppies will cry, appear listless,
have poor coats, runny noses, potbellies, and goopy eyes. Healthy
Chapter 3: Retrieving the Golden Treasure 47

puppies may be inactive when they first wake up, but they should be
active after they are fully awake.
If the puppies are ready to be taken home, no matter how cute
they might be, don’t buy a puppy right then and there. All Golden
puppies are adorable, and the next litter will steal your heart just as
easily. Go over the contract, look at the health certifications (see
Chapter 2), and talk with the breeder about what you are looking for
in a Golden.
After you decide on a breeder,
let the breeder know. If the pup-
pies aren’t born yet or if they Retriever Rewards
aren’t old enough to take home, Healthy puppies are
the breeder may request a deposit everything you
expect them to be—active,
on one. The amount of deposit
healthy-looking, bright-eyed, and
depends on the breeder. If the pup- full of energy. Look for healthy
pies aren’t born, the breeder may puppies when you visit the
reserve a puppy of either sex or a breeder.
puppy of one or the other sex.
Again, that depends on the breeder.
Puppy selection often depends on the breeder. Some breeders
will select the puppy for you. Others will let you choose from the
litter. Don’t be put off if the breeder selects the puppy or makes rec-
ommendations for which puppy might best suit you.
The breeder has spent a tremendous amount of time evaluating
puppies—they’ve been with the puppies ever since they were born.
The breeder looks at the puppies with an eye at considering which
one might best suit you. The breeder will consider you, your family,
your interests, and your lifestyle.
If the breeder doesn’t select a puppy for you, you may still want
to ask her opinion. Ask her about the puppies’ personalities and
which ones may be right for you. In most cases, you will want a
puppy that is neither too dominant nor too submissive.
48 Part 2: Selecting and Bringing Home a Golden Retriever

When you visit the puppies, call to them. They should come to
you readily. The first puppy that greets you may be more dominant,
but this largely depends on where the puppies were when you called
them. Puppies that visit and then go off may be independent-
minded. These free spirits may be difficult to train because they’re
more interested in their surroundings than you. Likewise, puppies
that hang back or act fearful may be too submissive.
Active is good, but hyper is not. Let the puppies calm down a bit
and play with them. Puppies that play very aggressively with their
siblings or with you may be too dominant. At this point, with the
approval of the breeder, separate each of the puppies you’re consid-
ering from their siblings and play with them.
Most puppies, when separated from their littermates, may be-
come a little nervous but as you’re playing with them will become
cheerful and relaxed. Negative reactions include becoming fearful,
aggressive, or overly hyper. If the puppy you’re thinking of buying
exhibits any of these behaviors, look at another puppy.
With the breeder’s permission, gently pick up the puppy and
cradle him so that he is on his back. Some puppies will become very
fearful or will struggle violently. A calm and self-assured puppy will
perhaps struggle a little and then
Golden Glimmers relax as you give him a tummy
The breeder should have all rub. If the puppy reacts very
your paperwork together. This negatively—either fearfully or
should include your Golden’s aggressively—put him down.
AKC papers, copies of the
parent’s certifications and AKC Lastly, you’ll want to check
records, the breeder’s contract, the puppy’s eyesight and hearing.
your Golden’s pedigree, and
Roll a ball or wave a toy in front
your Golden’s health records.
The breeder may include a of his face to see whether he will
puppy care package with sam- react. Clap your hands or snap
ples of puppy food and a toy. your fingers behind his head to
see whether he will turn his head
Chapter 3: Retrieving the Golden Treasure 49

and look or at least react. These tests aren’t scientific but may show
if an eyesight or hearing problem exists.

Selecting an Adult Dog


Selecting an adult dog is a little easier. Unlike puppies, the adult
Golden is basically “what you see is what you get,” unless it is an
older puppy. If you can find out the adult dog’s history, do so. Talk
with the owner, if you can.
If the Golden has been returned to the breeder, ask why. If the
dog is at a shelter or with a rescue group, sometimes the shelter or
rescue group will tell you why the dog is there. Be aware that often
previous owners will lie about why the dog is being returned. A typi-
cal response is “allergies” but don’t necessarily believe that the for-
mer owners returned your prospective Golden or dumped him in
the shelter because someone suddenly became allergic to him.
Typical reasons people relinquish their pets include behavioral
problems (many easily corrected by someone willing to take the time
to do so), inconvenience (the owner didn’t have time), lifestyle
change or owner moving away, owner died or couldn’t afford the
dog anymore, or some other reason.
Having worked with a variety of rescued dogs, I can state that the
former owners cause many behavioral problems seen in relinquished
dogs, and that firm, consistent training eliminates most problems.
Yes, some dogs that are available for adoption are untrainable or have
real behavior problems. They’re out there, but they’re a rarity. Most
shelter and rescue dogs make sweet pets.
For safety’s sake, never adopt a dog with a known aggression
problem, no matter how sorry you feel for him. Plenty of other
well-adjusted Goldens are waiting for homes.
Meet the Golden in a quiet room if you can. See how the Golden
reacts to you. Is he cringing and fearful or friendly and outgoing?
50 Part 2: Selecting and Bringing Home a Golden Retriever

It’s okay for the dog to show some trepidation followed by cheerful
acceptance. If the Golden continues to act fearful or submissive—
or act wild and unruly—you probably don’t want this Golden. You
want the dog to act friendly.
Next, put the Golden on a leash and walk him. See how he
reacts to you. If he knows any commands, work with him on them
and see how he reacts. If you see any aggression or questionable
behavior, you may want to look elsewhere.

The Least You Need to Know


≠ Reputable breeders will allow you to meet with all dogs in
their kennel.
≠ Many reputable breeders will select a puppy for you based
on the puppy’s personality and your lifestyle.
≠ Choose a puppy that is neither too submissive nor too domi-
nant.
≠ Choose an adult Golden that is friendly and outgoing and
responds well to you.
≠ Avoid a dog who shows any aggressive tendencies.
Chapter

4
Puppy Preparedness—
Bringing Your
Golden Home
In This Chapter
≠ Selecting your Golden’s supplies
≠ Identifying safe and unsafe toys
≠ Dog- and puppy-proofing your home, backyard, and garage
≠ Containing your Golden in the backyard
≠ Bringing your puppy home from the breeder
≠ Getting a good night’s sleep

In this chapter, we’ll look at what you absolutely need on hand


before you bring home your Golden Retriever, plus those things
that make your life much easier, whether you’re getting a puppy
or an adult.
52 Part 2: Selecting and Bringing Home a Golden Retriever

We’ll also look at your house and how you can make it safer for—
and from—your new Golden; how to bring your Golden home in the
car safely; and where you need to stop first: namely, the vet.

The Bare Necessities


When most people get a dog for the first time, they don’t think about
what they need to care for the dog or how much things cost. They
may think that a couple of food bowls and a tennis ball is all they’ll
need to keep their Golden happy.
Well, yes and no. Let’s look at the bare minimum your Golden
needs:
≠ Crate—Needs to be large enough for an adult Golden to stand
up, lie down, and turn around comfortably. Some owners like
to purchase a puppy crate, and then, as the puppy grows bigger,
purchase a crate for an adult. Puppy crates are usually cheaper,
with lighter-gauge wire. (See Chapter 5 for more on crates.)
≠ Bed or bedding material (should fit in the crate).
≠ Fencing or some other containment system.
≠ Water and food bowls.
≠ Premium puppy or dog food. (See Chapter 11 for more on
food.)
≠ Flat collar or buckle collar (for everyday wear and identification).
≠ Identification tags.
≠ Training collar. (See Chapter 7 for more on collars.)
≠ Six-foot leather leash.
≠ Enzymatic cleaner for accidents.
≠ Slicker brush and comb.
≠ Flea comb.
Chapter 4: Puppy Preparedness—Bringing Your Golden Home 53

≠ Mat comb.
≠ Doggy nail clippers.
≠ Doggy toothbrush and toothpaste—not the human kind!
≠ Doggy shampoo and conditioner—not human shampoo!
≠ Treats.
≠ Chew toys.

Retriever Rewards
The most cost-effective way to buy supplies is to purchase
them before you bring your Golden home. If you have
enough time to purchase them via the Internet or pet product mail
order catalogues, you’ll save money. But be careful—some catalogues
charge a lot for shipping and handling, eating up what savings you
might have earned by shopping there.

Large pet supply stores may offer discounted items or may be


just as expensive as a specialty shop. It depends on the item. It really
does pay to comparison shop.

Bones, Chews, and Other Edible Items


You wouldn’t think that the topic of bones and chews would be
controversial, but with savvy pet owners, it’s a hot topic. Someone,
somewhere, has had a dog die from eating rawhide, bones, and other
edible chews. If you chat with anyone on the Internet about it, you’ll
get a million opinions.
The truth is that if you listen to these stories, you’re likely to
never give your dog a rawhide chew, bone, cow hoof, or other
edible snack except biscuits. Problem is, dogs need to chew, and
your Golden will choose a chair leg or your $300 shoes instead of
something more appropriate. What to do?
54 Part 2: Selecting and Bringing Home a Golden Retriever

No Biscuit!
Someone may have told you that raw bones won’t cause any
harm to dogs, whereas cooked bones will. This belief is based on the
notion that wild canids eat raw bones all the time. Well, wild canids don’t
live long in the wild and can’t call the local vet if they have a blockage or
a perforated intestine.
Feeding raw bones is perhaps slightly less risky than feeding cooked
bones, but because no proof is available, it’s best to not feed your
Golden bones that are sharp, small, or can be swallowed.

© Carolyn Risdon

Always provide plenty of chews for your Golden. This is Bailey.

Be aware that no toy or chew is 100 percent safe. Even my


own dogs—who are aggressive chewers—have torn apart what were
considered indestructible items. So talking about items such as
rawhides, cow hooves, bones, and other edible chews as safe isn’t
appropriate. Give bones and chews only when you can watch your
Golden and be ready to take them away if your Golden is eating
them too fast or tearing pieces off of them.
Chapter 4: Puppy Preparedness—Bringing Your Golden Home 55

The Knee Bone’s Connected to the Leg Bone …


Some bones are safer than others. Dangerous bones include (but are
not limited to) T-bones, steak bones, fish bones, chicken and turkey
bones, pork bones, rib bones, and any thin or sharp bone. These
bones are dangerous because they can lodge in an intestine and
cause a blockage, or if sharp can perforate an intestine. Both raw
and cooked bones can do this, so don’t believe the folks who say that
only cooked bones present a problem.
Safer bones usually come from cattle and include femurs, thick
marrow bones, knuckle bones, and any bone that your Golden can’t
break apart and chew pieces off of. I like to freeze them before giv-
ing them to my dogs—it makes them harder and less likely to break.
Still, I never leave a dog alone with a bone, and I’ll take it away if
they start tearing pieces from them.
I’ve heard to boil the bones, and I’ve heard to give them raw.
I’m not sure which makes them tougher—authorities seem to argue
about this, too. The plus side to boiling the bones is that it kills dan-
gerous bacteria such as salmonella and E. coli. It’s up to you. Some
pet supply stores offer entire flavored cow femurs or cooked knuckle
bones. Again, that’s your choice.
Regardless of what bones you give your Golden, always watch
him. If he starts fracturing the bone or breaking off pieces, its time
to take the bone away.

Rawhide
What about rawhide? Most Goldens love rawhide chews, but they
can present a problem if eaten too fast. Rawhide has been known to
cause blockages in dogs, and some dogs have choked on large pieces,
so if your Golden is an aggressive chewer, you may want to watch
her for a while to see whether she’s going to try to eat it all at once
or if she’s going to simply chew it nicely. Don’t let your Golden eat
56 Part 2: Selecting and Bringing Home a Golden Retriever

a big rawhide bone in one sitting. Not only is it dangerous, but it


can also cause diarrhea due to an upset digestive tract.

Cow Hooves, Pig Ears, and Other Parts


Cow hooves, pig ears, and other parts of animals are available for
chewing on as well. Again, these disgustingly edible delectables can
pose a problem if eaten too rapidly. Cow hooves splinter off and
once they’re down to small pieces should be tossed. Pig ears, snouts,
and whatever else can cause diarrhea and stomach upsets if eaten too
quickly.

Edible Chews
Some new chews are made to look like bones and other items, but
they are mostly cornstarch, carrots, or potatoes. They sometimes
have meat flavorings and are offered as an alternative to bones.
My own dogs love them, but usually one is gone in a whole sit-
ting. I’m not thrilled about having a dog eat what was once a very
hard chew like that because it causes diarrhea, and I worry about the
potential for a blockage. Consequently, sometimes my dogs end up
with green poop for the next several days. They’ve also thrown them
up. My thought is that they probably aren’t intended to be eaten in
this manner, and it could cause gastric problems. Again, it’s some-
thing that is your call.

Toys
Naturally, your Golden Retriever is going to want toys, but what
toys are safe, and what toys are dangerous? It stands to reason that
whatever is completely safe for your Golden Retriever, he just won’t
play with. Usually these consist of hard rubber (nearly indestructi-
ble) items, nylon bones, and stuff made from hard plastic that can’t
be chewed easily.
Chapter 4: Puppy Preparedness—Bringing Your Golden Home 57

As a general rule, anything that your Golden can chew apart is


unsafe. Even certain nylon bones and rubber toys can be chewed to
smaller bits and may block an intestine.

© Teresa Bullard
Get plenty of toys for your Golden. Ginger is trying to decide which one is best.

Let’s be realistic: Just like the bones and edible chews, you need
to know what your Golden’s chewing habits are. Usually flimsy toys
made of latex with squeakers are unsafe, so don’t get those, but if
your Golden likes stuffed animals, getting a stuffed fleece man or
bear with a squeaker is probably okay if you watch how your Golden
plays with it. Toys, like chews, are best given under supervision. If
your Golden starts tearing up the toy or breaking bits off it, take the
toy away. Don’t leave your Golden alone with such toys unless you
can watch him and be vigilant.

Retriever Rewards
It sounds strange, but some dogs can’t stand toys with faces on
them. I’ve seen dogs tear apart perfectly good stuffed toys with
faces on them and leave toys alone that had no eyes or mouth. Obvi-
ously, dogs are more observant than we give them credit for. If toys
with faces creep your Golden out, try giving him a toy without a face.
58 Part 2: Selecting and Bringing Home a Golden Retriever

Not-So-Necessary Items (but Sure


Nice to Have!)
I’ve given you the basic items in the above paragraphs, but you’re
going to want to buy more than that. Most of the items I’m recom-
mending here are very useful for pet owners.
≠ Pooper-scoopers. These work better than using a shovel to pick
up the ubiquitous dog poop.
≠ Poop bags. Yes, you can use supermarket bags to pick up after
your Golden relieves himself while on walks, but some of those
bags can have holes. I don’t want to think about the conse-
quences of that! The prepackaged poop bags are often self-
sealing and small enough to carry to the local dumpster.
≠ Groomer’s table. This is a table where you allow your Golden
to stand and be groomed. They’re specially made to stand at
the right height and strong enough to hold your Golden’s
weight. You may think this is a luxury until you’ve thrown out
your back bending over your Golden to brush and comb him.
≠ Nail grinders. This is an alternative to nail clippers that works
by filing off your Golden’s nails with a rotating grinding stone.
Nail clippers make some dogs scream and carry on like you
were chopping off a leg. A nail grinder may be less stressful
for both of you.
≠ Blow dryer for dogs. Okay, I know what you’re thinking—a
blow dryer? Actually, they’re useful in the winter to dry your
Golden off quickly. Blow dryers made for dogs are forced air
only. They will not burn a dog’s tender skin the way hair dryers
for humans can.
≠ Kennel run. A run made of chain link fencing. May be movable
or permanent. If you have a fenced-in backyard, this may be
extraneous; however, it may save your garden and lawn. If you
don’t have a fenced-in backyard, a kennel run is a necessity.
Chapter 4: Puppy Preparedness—Bringing Your Golden Home 59

≠ X-pen or exercise Pen. This is a wire pen that you can set up
anywhere to contain your Golden. You will need one tall
enough to contain an adult Golden.

Puppy and Dog Food—Do’s and Don’ts


You may be surprised to learn that canine nutrition is a somewhat
controversial topic. Everyone has their opinion when it comes to
dog food—whether it’s actually healthy at all for your dog and what
kinds of foods are best. Well-meaning people will tell you that you
need to feed raw foods, raw bones, cooked meals, foods without
preservatives, foods with natural preservatives, or something with
yucca, blue-green algae, or probiotics. Don’t listen to hype—get
the facts.
Dog food has come a long way even in 10 years. Dog food
nutritionists have done extensive research on what is the optimal
nutrition for your Golden. When
choosing a dog food, the package Golden Glossary
should say that it meets the AAFCO The Association
nutritional standards set forth by of Animal Feed Control
Officials. This is a regulatory
AAFCO. If it does not, then it committee that sets the standards
cannot be considered a complete for pet nutrition.
and balanced food for your pet.
Choose a high-quality, premium dog or puppy food for your
Golden Retriever. At the same time, you will want to select a dog
food from a recognizable manufacturer. You don’t want to have
to drive across town to find your Golden’s food because the local
pet boutique ran out of it. If your dog is under one year of age,
feed a premium puppy food; otherwise feed a premium adult
maintenance food.
If you purchase your puppy from a reputable breeder, the
breeder often will include a sample of the puppy food he or she
60 Part 2: Selecting and Bringing Home a Golden Retriever

is currently feeding the puppy. If it is a high-quality food, you may


wish to continue feeding it to your puppy. Otherwise, you may want
to switch your Golden’s food over to a food you prefer. When you
switch your Golden’s food, do so gradually to avoid stomach upset.
What constitutes a premium pet food? Aren’t all dog foods the
same? Actually, they’re not. Premium pet foods usually have better-
quality ingredients—they have a greater nutritional value and are
highly digestible—meaning that you feed less and scoop up less when
cleaning up the backyard.
So how do you figure out which foods are premium? Price is often
one way. The better foods use better ingredients, and they cost more.
This is balanced by the fact that you generally feed your dog less of a
premium food, because the nutrients are more highly concentrated.
You should also read dog food labels. However, pet food labels can
be deceiving. Many lower-cost dog foods tout the same protein and
fat percentages as premium dog foods. The problem is that lower-
cost foods often have indigestible protein or protein that is poorly
metabolized. Some low-cost foods use soy or other plant proteins to
increase the protein percentage in the guaranteed analysis. (More on
the guaranteed analysis in Chapter 11.)

Golden Glossary
Meat by-products The nonrendered, clean parts other than
muscle meat, from slaughtered mammals. It includes all organs
and defatted fatty tissues. It does not include stomach or intestine con-
tents, hair, horns, teeth, and hooves.
Meat meal Meat from which the water and fat have been extracted.
If the label says “chicken meal,” then the meal must be made from
chickens.

Most veterinary nutritionists will tell you that meat is a far better
protein source than soy. One look at your Golden’s teeth should con-
firm it—dogs are carnivores. The plant material that wolves and wild
Chapter 4: Puppy Preparedness—Bringing Your Golden Home 61

dogs eat is typically predigested Golden Glimmers


material in a prey animal’s gut.
By-products are an excellent
This is why a high-quality source protein source for dogs.
of meat protein is important. Although you or I don’t like
the idea of chowing down
Choose a dog food that has as
on livers, hearts, and lungs,
its first ingredient an animal pro- your Golden will love it. By-
tein source. This can be chicken, products provide good
meat, fish, a type of meat meal digestible protein and excel-
(chicken meal), a by-product lent nutrition—not to mention
that they are often more palat-
(chicken by-products, for example),
able than just muscle meat.
or a by-product meal.

Puppy-Proofing 101
Puppies are inquisitive little critters. They love to explore. Unfortu-
nately, puppies use their mouths like hands, and anything that a
puppy puts in its mouth is fair game to chew and swallow. They’ll
chew on furniture legs, electrical cords, or carpeting. Outside, many
puppies pick up an affinity for landscape rock. I’ve known one puppy
to chew on bricks and car tires.
The best way to keep a puppy Retriever Rewards
from being destructive is to not Tape the phone num-
give him the opportunity. Limit bers for your veteri-
your Golden’s exposure to mis- narian, local poison control
center, and a 24-hour emer-
chief, and he will be the perfect
gency vet to your phone. That
puppy. Leave him home alone, and way, if there is an emergency,
you’ve just told the puppy, “Here’s you’ll have the numbers handy.
your toys—have a ball.”

House
The house is the main place where your Golden will spend his
time. That means he’ll have ample opportunity to get into trouble.
62 Part 2: Selecting and Bringing Home a Golden Retriever

If you’ve never owned a dog before, you may be amazed at what a


dog can get into and what kind of damage he can do.
In many respects, puppy- and dog-proofing is a lot like child-
proofing one’s home. Only a puppy is far more destructive than a
child. I’ve had puppies tear up carpet and chew it, tear down drapes,
eat drywall, and gobble parts of a recliner. I swear those cute puppy
eyes exist as a survival technique to keep you from killing him after
he’s trashed your house.
Decide now where you’ll allow your Golden and where you
won’t. Use baby gates or other barriers to cordon off areas that are off
limits. Choose one or two rooms as “puppy areas” and expand as your
Golden becomes more reliable. Many breeders recommend X-pens—
these are fold-up wire pens that can expand to any size space.

No Biscuit!
There are a lot of rumors on the Internet about certain house-
hold products being deadly to pets. Among those products are Febreze®,
and Swiffer WetJet®. The rumors go something like, “So-and-so’s dog died
of liver failure.”
I’m happy to report that the rumors are false when the products are used
as directed. In fact, the company that makes both products (Proctor and
Gamble) has issued statements saying that these products are safe around
kids and pets. The ASPCA also issued a statement saying that these prod-
ucts are safe when used as directed.
There are products that are unsafe to use around pets, so if you have con-
cerns, contact the manufacturer directly (most have toll-free numbers) or visit
their websites.

If you haven’t done your spring cleaning, do so now—even if it’s


winter. Anything that is small, that can be chewed and swallowed, that
is poisonous, that can fall on a dog, that is sharp, or that can break
should be kept out of reach of your Golden. That’s quite a list, but
Golden Retrievers aren’t for the timid. Hide electrical cords, put
away tempting items like candy and chocolate, and keep anything
Chapter 4: Puppy Preparedness—Bringing Your Golden Home 63

breakable out of reach. Get on all fours and look at your home from
a dog’s-eye view. Some things that don’t appear tempting from a
human level are tempting to a dog.
Here’s a partial list of items to look for when puppy-proofing
your house:
≠ Batteries.
≠ Candles, scented oils, scented air fresheners.
≠ Children’s toys.
≠ Dental floss.
≠ Drape cords—may hang a puppy.
≠ Electrical cords.
≠ Garbage pail.
≠ Glass knickknacks.
≠ Household cleaners.
≠ Houseplants—many are poisonous.
≠ Kitchen knives.
≠ Medications, including ibuprofen, acetaminophen, and aspirin.
≠ Mouse and rat poisons; roach and ant baits; insecticides.
≠ Paper shredder.
≠ Pennies, coins.
≠ Pens, paper, and other small items that may be chewed or
swallowed.
≠ Plates and glasses.
≠ Poisonous foods, including chocolate, onions, raisins, grapes,
and alcohol.
≠ Sewing needles, craft kits.
64 Part 2: Selecting and Bringing Home a Golden Retriever

≠ Shampoo, conditioner, mouthwash, toothpaste.


≠ Socks, other clothing items.
≠ String, rubber bands, paper clips.
≠ Suntan lotion.
≠ Vitamins.
≠ Woodstove, stove, furnaces.

Garage
The garage is a particularly hazardous place for your Golden
Retriever. You should not allow your Golden in the garage be-
cause of all the potential poisons and dangerous substances there.
Radiators leak, causing the potential for antifreeze poisoning, but
there are other poisons in the garage including windshield washing
fluid, which is just as dangerous as antifreeze.
Although motor oil and transmission fluids aren’t deadly if con-
sumed alone, they can be if mixed with antifreeze. Motor oil and
transmission fluid alone will cause severe gastric upsets. Other
poisonous items include rat and
No Biscuit! mouse poisons, insecticides,
Most people know herbicides, and fertilizers.
that antifreeze is poisonous
to pets, but did you know Hardware poses a hazard as
windshield wiper fluid is just as well. Nails, screws, washers, and
poisonous? Keep both the wind- nuts can be swallowed. Sharp items
shield wiper fluid and antifreeze such as saws can cut your Golden.
away from your Golden.
Trash cans are always a temptation.

Backyard Blues
If you haven’t put up a fence or some kind of containment system for
your Golden, do so now. Your Golden deserves to be safe and happy.
Chapter 4: Puppy Preparedness—Bringing Your Golden Home 65

Allowing your dog to run loose is irresponsible, at best. At worst,


he’s a nuisance and a danger to both himself and others.
In the city and suburbs, the chance for your dog to be hit by a
car is very good. You’ll find even the most streetwise mutts dead in a
ditch. A motorist could also get in an accident trying to avoid hitting
the dog. Loose dogs run in packs, getting into neighbors’ garbage,
becoming aggressive toward people and children, and attacking and
killing other people’s pets.

© Carolyn Risdon

Always supervise your Golden with any babies, toddlers, and young children.
This is Rico and Anthony Green.

In the country, dogs routinely harass and kill livestock and valu-
able game animals. In many rural areas, it is legal for farmers, ranch-
ers, and game wardens to shoot stray dogs. Dogs often tangle with
skunks, porcupines, and raccoons. The chance of contracting rabies
is greater with a loose dog. And many stray dogs provide a local
food source for coyotes and mountain lions.
It’s not kind to let a dog run loose. Your Golden will be happier
and healthier safe at home, enjoying your company. If you feel
66 Part 2: Selecting and Bringing Home a Golden Retriever

you don’t have time to exercise your Golden, perhaps you should
reconsider your choice to own a dog.
The best containment system is a six-foot fence or a kennel run.
Shorter fences will work for puppies, but adolescent dogs with
Houdini-like antics can jump over four-foot fences. Invisible fences
and pet containment systems will work provided that the owner
properly trains the dog. These systems will not work without proper
training. Don’t turn your puppy loose in your yard and expect it to
work. Another problem is that an excited dog can run through the
wire and then can’t get back in without receiving a shock. This gives
him no incentive to return where he belongs.

Golden Glimmers
A Houdini dog is made, not born. Most Goldens are content to be
homebodies.
People create Houdini dogs in two ways: 1) by putting up inferior
barriers, and 2) by not giving their Goldens enough to do. Houdini
dogs are typically smart dogs that are bored. Their owners put up
an inferior barrier, and the dog figures a way around it. The owner
ups the barrier slightly, and the dog figures another way around. It
becomes a game of one-upmanship.
Foil the Houdini dog by putting up good fences and giving him
plenty of activities.

The downside to electronic pet containment systems is that


these systems do nothing to keep other dogs or people out. Your
Golden may be at the mercy of loose dogs and other potential
threats. If you have an intact female, the invisible fence will not
deter unwanted suitors.
After you’ve solved your containment system problem, the next
step is to look for potential hazards in the backyard. Contact your
local poison control center or state agricultural office for a listing of
possible poisonous plants in your area. Many ornamental plants and
trees are poisonous. Although some mushrooms are benign, it’s best
to treat all mushrooms as poisonous and remove them.
Chapter 4: Puppy Preparedness—Bringing Your Golden Home 67

Plants aren’t the only hazard in your backyard. Many puppies


and some dogs enjoy ingesting landscaping rock, which can cause a
serious obstruction. Chemicals and fertilizers put on your lawn can
be absorbed through the skin or licked off paw pads. Sharp edging
can cut paws. High decks can present a falling hazard.
Pools present a special hazard to dogs because of the slick sides.
(Not having hands to grasp and pull themselves out is a problem.) If
you have a pool, you need to teach your Golden how to get out of
it properly. When in the pool, your Golden needs to be trained to
swim to the shallow end and to the stairs where he can walk out.
Never leave your Golden alone in the pool or where he can get to
the pool, and keep him away from any pools he can’t walk out of.

© Carolyn Risdon

You’ll need to teach your Golden how to get out of the pool safely.
This is Brandy.

No Biscuit!
The pods from the Black Locust tree are deadly if ingested.
These pods are indistinguishable from the Honey Locust tree, which is
harmless. Even experts have a hard time distinguishing between these two
trees. If you have one in your yard, be certain that the pods won’t fall in
an area where your Golden will be.
68 Part 2: Selecting and Bringing Home a Golden Retriever

Bringing Puppy Home


You’ll need to take some time off to spend with your Golden Retriever
when you bring him home. Until he gets the hang of the routine in
your house, you can expect a topsy-turvy life for a few days—if not a
few weeks—until you both figure out a good routine.
If you can’t take time off, consider picking up your Golden on
a Friday so that you have the entire weekend to spend with your new
pet. Don’t bring a new addition home around Christmas or the holi-
days. Quite often, the holidays are too hectic to spend enough time
with your puppy, and there’s a lot of mischief to get into around that
time.

© Carolyn Risdon

Christmas puppies aren’t necessarily a good idea. This is Brandy,


who discovered the wrapping paper.

Bring a crate when you go to the breeder’s to pick up your


Golden. Even if you’re bringing someone along, bring a travel crate
to carry your new pet home. A loose puppy is dangerous in the car.
The puppy can slip from the passenger’s arms and get underfoot
or worse.
Chapter 4: Puppy Preparedness—Bringing Your Golden Home 69

First Stop: The Veterinarian


Your first stop should be at the veterinarian to be certain your
Golden is in good health. Make an appointment with the veterinar-
ian ahead of time so that you can bring your puppy to the clinic
right from the breeder’s home.
The veterinarian may want a stool sample, so bring a plastic
baggie along in case the opportunity to collect one arises. Give the
vet your Golden’s health record. The veterinarian should examine
your Golden for any problems and vaccinate him. Follow your
veterinarian’s recommendations regarding vaccinations and other
health issues.

Don’t Have a Puppy Surprise Party


Bringing your new pet home can be exciting, but also a little scary.
Plan to keep the excitement to a minimum. When you come home,
give your Golden a chance to relieve himself. In the excitement, he
may forget to, so walk him on a leash until he calms down. Then
bring him inside.
Don’t have everyone crowd around him all at once. That can
be scary. Instead, have your Golden explore his new environment.
Then, have your family members greet your new pet—one at a time.
Give your Golden a chance to settle down.
Don’t introduce other family
pets just yet. This environment is Retriever Rewards
new, and your Golden needs time Put your Golden’s
to adjust to it. crate in your bed-
room when you both go to
Naturally, your Golden will be sleep. If your Golden cries, your
sniffing all over. But if he sniffs presence will reassure him. You
and circles, or looks like he may can also rap on the crate and
tell him, “No! Quiet!” without
squat, bring him outside on a leaving your bed.
leash. If he has an accident, usher
70 Part 2: Selecting and Bringing Home a Golden Retriever

him out quickly and clean the area with soap and water, followed
by white vinegar and water or enzymatic cleaner.
It will take some time for your Golden to become used to you
and your family. Use the next several days to teach your Golden
your routine.

Introductions to Other Family Pets


If your other pet is a dog, the best thing to do is introduce them
in a neutral place. Usually a park works well. You and another family
member or friend should bring the pets to the park on leash.
Walk up to each other and let them sniff and greet each other.
If either dog shows any sign of aggression, correct it immediately.
Otherwise, if your dogs are being friendly, allow them to play, but
be watchful for any sign of aggression.
If your dogs show any aggression, you may have to keep them
separate for a while. This means keeping them crated when you
can’t watch them. Have supervised play sessions and correct any
aggressive behavior.
If your other dog is aggressive toward your Golden, you may
have to consult an animal behaviorist.
If your Golden is a young puppy, you may introduce him to the
cat by letting the cat wander in and meet the puppy on his own
terms. If your Golden is an adult, you may want to keep the cat in
another part of the house so your Golden can become used to the
cat’s scent. Then introduce your Golden to the cat, by keeping the
Golden on leash. Correct any aggressive behavior and offer your
Golden treats to focus his attention away from the cat. Reward good
behavior.
Chapter 4: Puppy Preparedness—Bringing Your Golden Home 71

© Carolyn Risdon
Introduce your Golden to your cat slowly. This is Rico and Patches the cat.

How to Get a Good Night’s Sleep


After you bring your Golden home, you may discover that for the
first few nights you’re in for a rude awakening—or rather, you may
not even get enough sleep to be awakened. Puppies cry, fuss, and
carry on—and even adult dogs may. Suddenly that cute little fuzz
ball is now a demon dog.
What to do? What will ensure a good night’s sleep (okay, I’m
lying—at least a partial night’s sleep) is to wear out the little pup
before you go to bed. That means play with him until he gets a bit
tired and then take him out to relieve himself. When he’s done, bring
him to your bedroom, put him in his crate, and you go to bed, too.
If he’s tired, he’ll go straight to sleep. You can now go to sleep,
too, but be aware that he’ll probably wake you up in a few hours
whining to go outside. So, as the scouts say, be prepared. Take him
outside when he cries and then bring him back inside for a sip of
water and back to bed.
72 Part 2: Selecting and Bringing Home a Golden Retriever

If your Golden fusses while in his crate (and you’re positive


that he doesn’t have to relieve himself), you can try giving him a
hot water bottle filled with warm water (wrapped in a towel) to lie
against and place a ticking clock above his crate (with the alarm shut
off). The warmth might simulate his littermates, and the ticking
might be reassuring enough to get him to fall asleep. I’ve never done
this, so I don’t know whether it works, but plenty of experts have
recommended it over the years, and if it works for you, great!
Eventually, your Golden will get the hang of the new routine,
and both of you will be getting a good night’s sleep.

The Least You Need to Know


≠ Purchase your Golden’s supplies before you bring your dog
home, so you aren’t rushing around at the last minute.
≠ Many toys made for dogs are unsafe. Choose toys that are
nearly indestructible, such as hard rubber or nylon, until you
know your Golden’s chewing habits, and never leave your dog
alone with a toy.
≠ The only bones that are relatively safe are cow marrow bones
and knuckle bones. Even these can be unsafe. Never leave your
dog alone with a bone or chew.
≠ Puppy-proofing requires that you remove all tempting items
from the puppy’s reach including electrical cords, medications,
clothing, breakable items, and small items that can be chewed
and swallowed.
≠ Don’t keep your Golden in the garage; there are too many poi-
sonous and dangerous things there. Backyard hazards include
swimming pools and tall decks; keep these cordoned off.
≠ Your Golden needs a fenced-in backyard or a kennel run.
Don’t allow your Golden to run loose!
Part

3 Dog Training 101


Training your Golden requires knowledge of dog behavior. To
understand dog behavior, you must understand wolf behavior. Dogs,
like wolves, are pack animals. Dogs understand hierarchy and
respect it. In Part 3, I’ll show you the basics of how to be “top dog”
to your Golden.
Many people decide to take on training their dog by themselves.
In this part I discuss the disadvantages to going it alone and give you
tips for selecting the right dog trainer. I also show you how to teach
your Golden the basic commands and give you the secrets that every
dog trainer knows.
Chapter

5
Crates and Housetraining
In This Chapter
≠ Why crates aren’t cruel
≠ What types of crates are available?
≠ Crate training puppies and older dogs
≠ Alternatives to crates
≠ Housetraining puppies and older dogs
≠ Cleaning up accidents

Housetraining (commonly called housebreaking) is the one


training you must do right. Your Golden may never learn a proper
Sit or Down and still be a happy pet, but if your Golden is con-
stantly using your home as his toilet, you’re not going to put up
with that for long.
Housetraining takes time. It’s not something a Golden puppy
can learn in a week (despite the claims of some books), although an
adult may be more reliable.
76 Part 3: Dog Training 101

In this chapter, you’ll learn about crates and housetraining, why


crates aren’t cruel, and how they help with housetraining.

Crates
The crate is perhaps one of the greatest tools a pet owner can have.
Unfortunately, it’s also the most misunderstood. People who don’t
own dogs see a dog in a crate and think that it’s cruel, but nothing
could be further from the truth. To the professional dog trainer, the
crate is a way of containing a dog and keeping him safe and out of
mischief. To the dog, the crate feels like a comfortable den.
But crate training isn’t just a matter of popping your Golden
in a crate. You need to train your Golden to use it properly. Both
puppies and older dogs can benefit from crate training.

© Carolyn Risdon

Your Golden looks at his crate as a safe place—


a den, not a cage. This is Bo.
Chapter 5: Crates and Housetraining 77

Trainers use crates to housetrain dogs and to teach dogs good


manners. Dogs and puppies become model pets when they don’t
learn bad habits such as destructive behavior and chewing inappro-
priate items.
Crates come in a variety of materials and sizes. When you
choose a crate, choose one with a good locking mechanism—
preferably with two latches. You can choose either wire or plastic.
If you choose wire, choose one with a heavy enough gauge so that
your Golden can’t chew through it. If you purchase a plastic travel
crate, be sure that it meets the FAA requirements for airline travel,
in case you ever fly with your Golden. Some very lightweight crates
are made from fabric and PVC pipe. Do not purchase these, because
they are intended for obedience-trained dogs and are only to be
used for a very brief time.
The crate will be a training tool for your Golden for housetrain-
ing and a place to confine him when you can’t watch him and don’t
trust him 100 percent while he’s still learning the house rules. You
don’t want to confine your Golden in a crate more than four hours
at a time when he’s a puppy and no more than nine hours when an
adult.
The crate should be large enough for an adult Golden to stand
up, turn around, and lie down comfortably in. You’ll have to block
a portion of the crate off because if it’s too big, the puppy will re-
lieve himself in it. (Remove the barrier after your Golden gets big
enough.) If you want, you can purchase a smaller puppy crate (usu-
ally fairly inexpensive) and then
purchase an adult crate as your Golden Glimmers
Golden gets older. Crates simulate the den in the
wild. All dogs have a denning
Your Golden’s crate will be his instinct. Your Golden Retriever
spot when you can’t watch him. will be happier if he has a
It’ll be a safe place for him when den all his own.
workmen come in and out of your
house and accidentally leave the
78 Part 3: Dog Training 101

doors open. It’ll be a place where your Golden stays if he trembles


at thunder or the Fourth of July fireworks.

Why Crate Training Is NOT Cruel


When uninformed people see dogs in crates, the first thing they
think is “How cruel!” But they are anthropomorphizing their feel-
ings. The dog in the crate is probably thinking “I’m in a strange,
scary place—glad I’m in my crate!” The crate is a safe place—
reassuring like a child’s blanket.
Wolves, coyotes, foxes, and other wild dogs generally don’t sleep
outdoors (except maybe to nap in the sun). The wild is a dangerous
place—being caught in the open could mean death. This is why
wolves and other wild canids sleep in dens.
Dens aren’t very roomy. They’re usually close in to trap the
wolf’s body heat during cold weather. The wolf will seek shelter
there if the weather is inclement or if there is danger.
Think of the wolf’s den when you see the crate. Most dogs are
content to lie in it without much of a fuss. In many cases, it’s safer
than leaving your Golden to roam the house, looking for items to
chew.
I’ve had dogs lie in their crates snoozing away while the crate
doors were open. I’ve had dogs hide in their crates during severe
thunderstorms. If my dogs truly hated their crates, they wouldn’t
rush into them so readily.
Most dogs do extremely well with crate training. A few older
dogs that have not been crate trained may have some difficulties
adjusting. Usually, with proper training, this isn’t an issue.

Alternatives to Crates
Unfortunately, not too many alternatives to crates are available.
There’s a reason why so many trainers use them—they work.
Chapter 5: Crates and Housetraining 79

One alternative is the X-pen, or exercise pen. The X-pen is like


a large, open-air crate that many dogs can either jump, climb, or
knock down. A big Golden has no problems scaling one of these.
Another problem with X-pens is that they may not be small enough
to aid in housetraining. Your Golden may learn to soil a small cor-
ner of the X-pen, thus foiling any attempts to housetrain him.

© Carolyn Risdon

You can sometimes cordon off a small space in lieu of a crate,


but it’s not as effective. This is Bo.

Another alternative is confining your Golden to a small room


in the house. However, this does not prevent your Golden from
chewing up anything inside the room. Unless the room is tiny, you
may have the same problems housetraining your Golden that an
X-pen would pose.
80 Part 3: Dog Training 101

Crate Training 101


So how do you begin crate training? First, select a place where you’ll
put the crate—preferably in a spot not far from activity in the house.
You’ll have to move your puppy’s crate into your bedroom at night, so
you might want to have two crates to avoid this.
Feed your Golden’s meals in his crate. Toss his treats into the
crate so he must go in and eat them. Give him his chews in the crate.
Have him associate the crate with good things.
While he’s eating, close the door for a while. Then, open it again
and let him out when you can watch him. When you want him to go
into his crate, toss a treat in and then close the door when he goes
inside.
Some puppies will fuss. If you give him a nice marrowbone, he
may not even notice that the crate door is closed.
It’s very important to have your
Golden sleep in your bedroom, as it
No Biscuit!
will help him bond to you. At bed-
Have your Golden
sleep in your bedroom—but not time, bring your puppy’s crate to
in your bed! If your Golden the bedroom and put him in for the
sleeps in your bed, you have night. He may cry—if this is his
made him into an equal, and he first night away from home. You can
may later challenge you for
try the old “hot water bottle and
dominance.
clock trick” (see end of Chapter 4)
or you can just rap on his crate and
tell him to be quiet.

Crate Training for Older Dogs


Crate train an older Golden Retriever as you would a puppy. Feed
him his meals in his crate, toss treats into his crate to get him to go
in, and give him chews in his crate.
Chapter 5: Crates and Housetraining 81

Occasionally, you’ll find an Golden Glimmers


adult dog resistant to crate train-
Carry poop bags whenever
ing, but this is rare. If your adult
you walk your Golden. No-
Golden has trouble adjusting to his body likes stepping in it, and
crate, consider a crate alternative in many cities you’re required
or seek the help of a professional to pick up after your dog.
trainer.

Housetraining 101
Housetraining is your first big challenge in owning a dog. There is,
however, good news. No dog likes to soil his bed, and Goldens are
no exception. You can use this natural instinct to your advantage.
When you release your Golden from his crate, the very first
thing you should do is put him outside. Don’t delay, because I guar-
antee the first thing your Golden is going to do is relieve himself
on your floor. The choice is yours. When you open that crate door,
whisk your Golden outside to where you want him to go. You won’t
have to wait long. Now praise him! Tell him that he’s the best
Golden in the universe and give him a treat, if you want.
© Carolyn Risdon

When you let your Golden out of her crate, usher her outside immediately
so she can relieve herself. This is Amber.
82 Part 3: Dog Training 101

Wow! you’re thinking. That’s it? Well, yes and no. That’s the
basics to housetraining your Golden. Every time after you feed him,
play with him, and take him out of his crate, you need to rush him
right outside and praise him when he “does his thing.” You also
need to put him outside right before he goes to bed at night.
Keeping a schedule of no longer than four hours between potty
breaks will help immensely. (And yes, you can’t expect a puppy
younger than six months to hold it for more than four hours.)

Retriever Rewards
What do you do if you live in the city? Well, the bad news
is, you still have to take your Golden out for a walk first thing
in the morning, after meals, after playtime, and before bedtime. This
may seem pretty daunting, especially in the winter or when it’s raining.
All I can recommend is that you grab your raingear before you head
out.

Housetraining Don’ts
Unfortunately, there’s a lot of bad advice and bad common knowl-
edge out there when it comes to housetraining. For example, many
people still believe that the best way to housebreak a puppy is to rub
his nose in it or whack him with a rolled-up newspaper. Such train-
ing is barbaric at best. If people were to do that to their kids, we
would consider it child abuse.
Here are the things you shouldn’t do when housetraining your
Golden:
≠ Don’t paper-train him. It teaches him that it’s okay to relieve
himself in the house.
≠ Don’t litter-box train him. Your Golden will be too big to use
the litter box when he’s an adult.
≠ Don’t hit your Golden. Not even with a rolled-up newspaper.
Chapter 5: Crates and Housetraining 83

≠ Don’t rub his nose in it. What are you trying to teach your
Golden? You’re trying to teach him not to go in the house—
not that you’re a mean person!
≠ Don’t scream or yell. You
can’t train a dog that’s terri-
fied of you. Retriever Rewards
You can teach your
≠ Don’t correct if it’s diar- Golden to go potty
rhea. Your Golden really on command. When you walk
couldn’t help it. him or bring him outside, use the
words Go potty while he is
≠ Don’t make your Golden relieving himself. He’ll associate
hold it for more than nine those words with the act of
hours if an adult and no relieving himself. This is very use-
ful when it’s cold or raining, and
more than four hours if a
you want him to go potty quickly.
puppy. This is really unfair
to your Golden.

Housetraining Do’s
Here are the things you should do when housetraining your Golden:
≠ Put your Golden on a schedule. This will make it easier for
him to hold it.
≠ Let your Golden out after feeding and playing.
≠ Put your Golden in a crate when you can’t watch him.
This will prevent him from going in the house behind your
back until he’s housebroken. Don’t leave him in there all day—
no more than four hours when younger than six months and
no more than nine hours when six months or older.
≠ If your Golden starts circling or squats, whisk him out-
side. Praise him when he goes outside.
≠ Teach your Golden to go potty on command.
84 Part 3: Dog Training 101

No Biscuit!
Forget all those fancy rug cleaners—they won’t do a bit of
good to clean your carpet if they can’t remove the odors your Golden can
smell. Use a good pet enzymatic cleaner made to eliminate pet odor or
use white vinegar and water.

Uh-oh! What to Do with Accidents


What do you do if your Golden makes a mistake in the house? Well,
it’s going to happen. What you need to do is minimize it. This
requires that you maintain a schedule of when you let him out and
watch him like a hawk when he’s out of his crate. If he starts sniffing
around or circling, it’s time to put him out pronto.
When you catch your little guy in the act, you’ll probably
screech loudly. That’s fine—a “No! No!” will suffice. Usher the little
guy outside and praise him when he finishes his business out there.
Then come back in and clean up the mess.
What if you find a “present” for you on the floor? Trainers are
somewhat in disagreement here. Some say you shouldn’t punish
him; others say you should. Some say you can punish but only
if the poop is warm. Well, I don’t believe in checking the poop so
thoroughly, so I’ll give you my own compromise—the straight poop,
if you will.
I show my dogs the mess and tell them how bad they are. I don’t
yell or scream; I just show it to them. Then, I pick up the mess, put
it outside, and then put them outside to do their business. This
seems to work with both adults and puppies.
Use an enzymatic cleaner to clean up the mess and remove the
odor. Don’t use household cleaning supplies—many contain ammo-
nia, which will emphasize any urine smells. I recommend Nature’s
Miracle®, but there are also some other effective brands.
Chapter 5: Crates and Housetraining 85

If you’re out of enzymatic cleaner—and this usually occurs at


11 P.M., when the pet supply stores are closed—you can clean the
mess up with soap and water and follow it up with white vinegar
and water.

The Least You Need to Know


≠ Crates are useful training tools that help with preventing
destructive behavior and housebreaking.
≠ Crates are not cruel. A crate simulates a wolf or wild dog’s den
and becomes a safe haven for your Golden.
≠ You can housebreak your Golden by putting him on a schedule.
≠ Don’t paper-train your Golden—that will lead to further
housebreaking problems.
≠ Don’t rub your puppy’s nose in his poop. Instead, show him
the mess, tell him “bad dog,” and put both him and the mess
outside.
≠ You can teach your Golden to relieve himself on command
by giving him a command word each time he goes, such as
Go potty.
≠ Clean up messes using a special enzymatic cleaner formulated
for cleaning up after dogs or, in a pinch, use soap and water,
followed by white vinegar and water.
Chapter

6
Gold Star—Professional
Training
In This Chapter
≠ Should you look for a professional trainer, or train your
Golden by yourself?
≠ How do you find the right trainer for your Golden?
≠ Are obedience training classes important?
≠ What other training classes can you and your Golden take?

When we think about training our dogs, we often think we


should do it ourselves. We hire someone else to cut our hair, teach
our kids, and fix our plumbing. We can’t be experts in everything,
so why do we think we’re dog trainers?
There’s no shame in admitting you’re not a dog trainer. That’s
why there are many reputable trainers out there who know the lat-
est and most effective training methods. In this chapter, we’ll look at
finding a trainer and what training classes are available. We’ll also
88 Part 3: Dog Training 101

look at other training classes that specialize in getting your dog ready
for competition.

Should You Train Your Golden by Yourself?


Owning a well-trained dog is a joy; owning an unruly dog is annoy-
ing. Think back on an unruly dog you saw at the dog park or on the
street. Was he dragging his owner around and barking at people?
Was he in your face or hyper? Did you enjoy the experience?
Chances are, you didn’t. It wasn’t the dog’s fault he was poorly
trained—it was the owner’s. Unfortunately, well-trained dogs are in
the minority.
Training your Golden Retriever isn’t brain surgery, but it does
require a certain talent and a fair amount of experience. Most poorly
trained dogs were not trained by professional trainers; they were
trained by people who either thought they could do just as well train-
ing the dog themselves—or didn’t bother to train their dog at all.
If you’ve trained a dog before and were satisfied with the results,
great! But if you’ve never trained a dog, didn’t quite get it right the
last time, or perhaps thought you could use some advice, then be
honest with yourself and find a trainer. Hiring a trainer to train your
Golden is nothing to be ashamed of.
If you do decide to try to teach your Golden, this book will help
you (see Chapters 7–9), but it’s a little like someone trying to learn
how to be a doctor through a correspondence course. I don’t know
about you, but I wouldn’t like the results. Still, if you’re determined
to try, this book will give you the foundation for training your
Golden. Be aware that at any time, you can seek out a professional
trainer.
Chapter 6: Gold Star—Professional Training 89

Looking for the Right Trainer


So what kind of trainer is right for your Golden Retriever? Many
types of trainers are available—some good, some not so good. Many
old-fashioned trainers are still out there—the kind who believe in
negative reinforcement and punishment to train a dog. There are also
a good many positive reinforcement trainers who will not and cannot
use the word “no.” Then there are trainers who use a mixture of
both methods.

Golden Glossary
Negative reinforcement A training technique that corrects the
dog for behaving in the incorrect manner. It is a form of oper-
ant conditioning, but most positive trainers try to avoid this technique.
Positive reinforcement A training technique that rewards the dog for
behaving in the correct manner. It is a form of operant conditioning
that uses little, if any, coercion or punishment. Both owners and dogs
enjoy this kind of training.

You want to find a trainer who uses mostly positive training


methods. Very little, if any, harsh commands or corrections should
be used. Instead, you should see effective training techniques that
train the owners to train their dogs.
How do you find a reputable
dog trainer? Talk to your dog- Golden Glimmers
owning friends, your Golden’s A good dog trainer will teach
breeder, and your veterinarian. you how to train your Golden.
Many will have recommendations The best trainers focus on the
bond between you and your
for trainers in your area. You can
Golden Retriever.
also find trainers by talking to
people who compete in conforma-
tion, obedience, and agility dog
shows. Most have recommendations.
90 Part 3: Dog Training 101

If you’re unable to obtain recommendations, you may want to


check the telephone directory under Dog Trainers. Contact your
local humane society or shelters—some offer low-cost classes. Some
community colleges and pet supply stores also offer obedience
classes, but be careful! Bargain trainers are often no bargain.
The trainer should be happy to show you her facility. Ask her
what titles she has put on her dogs. She should be able to show you
ribbons and photos of dogs she has shown in obedience and other
canine sports.

Training Classes Available


Some facilities may have several trainers and may have a variety of
training classes available. Many classes will be basic obedience
geared toward the beginner. Some classes for competitive obedience
may be offered. Classes in advanced training such as agility, tracking,
herding, and hunting also may be offered.

Puppy Kindergarten
Puppy Kindergarten, also called Puppy KPT, is for puppies under
the age of six months. In these classes, you socialize your Golden
puppy with other puppies who are about the same age. The trainer
will also help you train your puppy in rudimentary commands such
as Sit and Down.

Retriever Rewards
Beginning Obedience
If the trainer you talk Beginning Obedience usually takes
to won’t let you up after Puppy Kindergarten. In
watch his class for fear that you Beginning Obedience, the trainer
will steal his secrets, look else-
teaches the owner to train the dog
where. There are no secrets in
dog training. in the basic commands: Sit, Down,
Heel, Stay, Stand, and Come.
Chapter 6: Gold Star—Professional Training 91

Sometimes this is a training class similar to a novice-level competi-


tive obedience class, but this class is intended for training dogs with
no experience in obedience.

© Carolyn Risdon

A Golden puppy can benefit from puppy kindergarten or puppy KPT.


This is three-month-old Amber.

Novice
Novice is a class aimed toward
owners who want to compete in Golden Glossary
obedience. In Novice, the owner Finish A fancy way of
learns the basic test for the having your dog return
Novice level of competition: to heel position, either doing a
Heeling on leash, figure-8s, Sit, U-turn in place or around the
handler.
Down, Stand-Stay, Down-Stay,
Sit-Stay, Sit in front, and Finish.
92 Part 3: Dog Training 101

Other Obedience Classes


Other classes are usually advanced obedience competition classes,
such as open and excellent training. Some trainers may have a clicker
training class and attention class.
Clicker training is a fun class in which you click a special clicker
every time your Golden does something you want. You follow the
click up with a treat. Most dogs (and owners) love clicker training
because it is very positive.
Attention class is a class that helps the dog focus on their own-
ers. Most Goldens don’t need attention class, because they are
people-oriented dogs. However, if your Golden is having dominance
problems or needs an edge in competition, this class often will help
the dog focus on you.

Tracking
Tracking class teaches your Golden to follow his nose and find items
with scent on them, known as articles. Tracking is a lot of fun for
both the dog and owner but requires some obedience training be-
fore you begin training for tracking.

Agility
Agility is a sport in which dogs run a specially designed obstacle
course. It is a timed event, so dogs that complete the course accu-
rately in the least amount of time do well. Most dogs love agility,
after they get the hang of the obstacles. Dogs that may not do well
in obedience may shine in agility because it isn’t as restricting or
repetitive. Your Golden will need to know basic obedience such as
Sit, Down, Come, and Stay and must be able to work off-leash.
Chapter 6: Gold Star—Professional Training 93

Conformation
Conformation training is training for a conformation dog show. In
this class, the trainer teaches you how to stack your Golden so that
he looks his best when the judge sees him. You will learn how to gait
your dog—that is, trot him out in front of the judge so that your
dog looks to have the best movement. You also learn how to handle
a dog properly for the show ring.

Golden Glossary
Clicker training A form of positive reinforcement that relies
heavily on operant conditioning. The dog hears a click from a
special clicker whenever he behaves correctly and then receives a
treat. Dogs quickly learn to offer behaviors that will cause the click (and
subsequent treat) and avoid behaviors that will not produce the click.
Agility A sport in which dogs run a specially designed obstacle
course. It is a timed event, so dogs that complete the course accurately
in the least amount of time do well.
Stack Standing one’s dog in the conformation show ring in a way
that emphasizes positive characteristics and diminishes flaws.

Flyball
Flyball is a fast-paced sport in which dogs run in relays. Each dog
jumps over four hurdles to the flyball box. The dog then triggers the
flyball box to release a tennis ball into the air, which he catches.
Then the dog runs back over the hurdles to the starting line, where
the next member of the team is waiting. Your Golden will need to
know Sit, Stay, Down, and Come.

Rally-O
Described as a cross between agility and obedience, Rally or Rally-O
is a new sport recently approved by the AKC. Between 10 and 17
stations are set up, and the dog must perform a series of maneuvers
94 Part 3: Dog Training 101

and commands at each station. Rally is timed and is a lot of fun. Your
Golden will need to know obedience commands and some agility.

Golden Glimmers Field Trials/Hunting Tests/


Through the AKC and other Retrieving Work
organizations, your Golden
can earn a variety of titles in Field trial and hunting test train-
obedience, Rally-O, flyball, ing introduces or prepares your
agility, tracking, conformation, Golden for competition in either
and hunting tests. Only confor- Field Trials or Hunting Tests.
mation requires the dog be
Field Trials are very competitive,
unneutered. All other competi-
tion allows spayed or neutered so if you’re interested in trying out
dogs to compete. some form of field work or hunt-
ing, start with hunting tests.
Don’t forget that the Golden was bred as a hunting dog, so he
excels in hunting—not just hunting tests and trials.

The Least You Need to Know


≠ You are more likely to be successful teaching your Golden
obedience if you learn under a professional trainer.
≠ Ask your vet, your Golden’s breeder, or a dog-owning friend
whom they would recommend as a professional dog trainer.
≠ Young puppies (under six months) should go to a puppy kinder-
garten class.
≠ Older puppies and dogs should take a beginner’s class.
≠ Good trainers teach you how to train your dog. Choose a
trainer who uses positive reinforcement techniques.
≠ A variety of classes are available, including those that teach
sports such as agility, Rally, flyball, tracking, conformation,
field, and retrieving work. Most require that the dog already
know some basic obedience.
Chapter

7
Training Ground Rules
In This Chapter
≠ Learn the secrets of professional trainers
≠ Get the training equipment you need
≠ Making your Golden into a Golden Canine Good Citizen®
≠ Learn what equipment works and what doesn’t

Training your Golden requires some basic ground rules. These


are rules you, as your Golden’s trainer, must learn and obey in order
to teach him.
You also need some other things to train your Golden: the right
collars, leashes, clickers, target sticks, treats, and other items.

Do’s and Don’ts


One of the biggest problems dog owners have is understanding
what the rules of training a dog are. Most dog owners are still train-
ing with techniques that are more than 20 years old. These tech-
niques are often misguided and coercive—they’re not based on what
we now know about dog behavior.
96 Part 3: Dog Training 101

You need to learn what the latest techniques are in positive train-
ing and apply them to your Golden’s training.
Before you begin training, you need some ground rules for how
to train your Golden. These rules are applicable to everyone who is
training your dog, regardless of the type of training used.
≠ Never become angry at your Golden Retriever. You’re likely to
punish your Golden instead of communicating with him.
≠ Never yell or scream at your Golden. This isn’t communication—
except to communicate that he should be afraid of you.
≠ Take a time out when you feel angry or frustrated. Put your
Golden back in his crate and cool off. Or end the training
session and play with him.
≠ Spend 5 to 10 minutes a day working on commands.
≠ Praise should be swift and meaningful.
≠ Train before meals. Your Golden will be a little hungry and
more focused on the treats. Your Golden’s meal will also be-
come a reward for a job well done.
≠ Never give a command you can’t enforce. If you do, your
Golden will assume he can ignore any command.
≠ Set your Golden up for success and never allow him to make
a mistake. Before starting a particular exercise, try thinking of
all the possible reactions your Golden will have and devise ways
to steer him toward the correct response.
≠ It’s easier to teach good habits
No Biscuit!
than to “train out” bad ones.
Don’t use “sit
down” and “lie down.” These ≠ Never force a frightened or
two commands are very confus- confused dog into doing some-
ing to your dog. Instead use Sit
thing. Frightened and confused
for sit down and Down for lie
down. dogs may bite—and they
certainly will not learn what
you want them to.
Chapter 7: Training Ground Rules 97

≠ Teach your Golden to pay attention to you. You can use the
“watch me” command (see Chapter 8).
≠ Use a distinct command word for each command. Sit should
be “Sit.” Down should be “Down.” Off should be “Off.” Sit
should not be “sit down.” Down should not be “lie down.”
Off should not be “down.” Those are too confusing to your
Golden.
≠ Always reward good behavior.
≠ Never call your Golden to you to punish him. He’ll learn that
coming results in punishment.
≠ “No” is not a dirty word, but you shouldn’t use it all the time.
Use it sparingly to emphasize that your Golden has done
something wrong and needs to correct it.
≠ Don’t expect your Golden to think the way you do. Look at
your Golden’s behavior from a dog’s perspective. Does he really
understand that it’s bad to make a mess indoors? Dogs aren’t
spiteful, nor do they feel guilty, but they react in a submissive
manner when you’re angry.
≠ Always reward your Golden for coming to you.
≠ Never allow a puppy to
do something that you
Retriever Rewards
would find intolerable or
Be consistent in train-
obnoxious in an adult dog. ing. Don’t allow your
Mouthing turns to biting. Golden to do something for a
Jumping up becomes knock- while and then suddenly not
ing over. Think about what allow him to do it. For example,
letting your Golden lie on your
you allow your Golden to do.
old ratty couch is okay, but then
≠ Be fair and consistent with you must expect that he’ll lie
your Golden. That’s how you down on your expensive new
couch when you get it.
become someone your
Golden will respect.
98 Part 3: Dog Training 101

≠ Always end every training session on a positive note. If your


Golden has trouble learning something, have him do something
he does know and end the session with praise and a reward.
≠ Take time to play after training.
≠ Make training fun. It doesn’t have to be a drill session.

Training Collars
Your Golden should have a training collar as well as his regular
(flat or buckle) collar. Use the training collar for training only, not
as a regular collar. Most training collars are slip collars, meaning they
tighten up as you pull on them. If
you leave this collar on your dog
Golden Glossary
all the time—even the ones with
Slip collar A collar
used for training pur-
limited slip—he may snag it on
poses, usually made from chain. something and choke to death.
This collar tightens when pulled.
For this reason, never leave a
Limited slip collar A slip collar
slip or limited slip collar on a dog
with a restriction that prevents
the collar from tightening too while unattended. Never affix tags
much. or anything that may snag to the
training collar, other than the leash
or training tab.

Slip Collar
The slip collar is another name for what people commonly refer to
as a “choke chain” or “choke collar.” This name conjures up cruel
images, when in fact, if you use the collar correctly, it can be a safe
and humane training collar.
These collars may be made from steel chain (for regular obedi-
ence), fine serpentine links (for dog shows), or nylon cord. Depend-
ing on your activities, you may want several types of training collars.
Chapter 7: Training Ground Rules 99

Choose a steel-link training collar. When it’s on your dog, the


training collar should have no slack and the ends should not dangle
down. The collar should fit around your Golden’s neck, high
enough so that it sits below the jaw and just behind the ears. If the
collar is big enough to rest on the dog’s shoulders, you may find
yourself going for a “drag” instead of a walk!
There’s a right way and a wrong way to put on a training collar.
The right way enables the collar to release after tightening; the
wrong way keeps the collar tight. Slide one link through the other
so that the collar makes a “P.” If the collar is a backward “P,” that’s
wrong. Now slip the collar over your Golden’s head as your Golden
is facing you.
In most circumstances, No Biscuit!
Goldens do well with slip collars. Never leave a train-
However, if you are constantly ing collar on your unsupervised
playing tug-of-war with your Golden. Never use a training
Golden, you may have to resort to a collar as your Golden’s regular
collar. He accidentally can snag
collar that offers more control, such it on something and choke.
as a snap choke or a prong collar.

Prong Collar
Prong collars look like medieval torture devices but are actually quite
humane. They are sometimes called “pinch” collars because the
prongs close on the skin folds of the neck. These collars are limited
slip, thus making them safer than slip collars, but the prongs can
do damage if the dog slips and falls.
Prong collars work best for extremely strong dogs with
thick, muscular necks, like sled dogs. Because they don’t work by
tightening, the way standard slip collars do, there is less chance of
injuring your Golden’s neck. However, like any tool, it can be
misused. Consult a professional trainer about using a prong collar.
100 Part 3: Dog Training 101

When your Golden learns to stop pulling, most trainers gradu-


ate their dogs to snap chokes or regular slip collars. Most dogs make
the transition well, needing the prong collar only as an occasional
reminder or in circumstances that require tight control.

Golden Glossary
Prong collar A collar used for training purposes, made from
steel links, with prongs that turn inside against the dog’s neck.
This collar is a limited slip design; when pulled, the prongs grab into
the loose folds of skin around the neck.
Snap choke A type of slip collar that snaps onto a loose ring. It is
made of parachute cord rather than steel links and offers more control
than the standard slip collar.

Snap Chokes
Snap chokes are similar to slip collars, except that they are made
from thin parachute cord and snap onto a loose ring. You can get
a better fit with a snap choke than you can with regular training
collars. Like regular training collars, they need to fit close around
the neck with no excess hanging down.
These training collars are effective for strong pullers but are less
effective than prong collars. Like prong collars, they can be misused,
so consult a professional trainer about the proper use of snap
chokes.

Head Halters
Head halters are a popular device among those who don’t want to
use training collars. The head halter works like a horse halter, on
the idea that where the head goes, the body goes—although it has
some differences. You clip the leash on the strap hanging down,
and the strap applies pressure on the dog’s muzzle when pulled.
Chapter 7: Training Ground Rules 101

Many people swear by these halters, but I’ve seen mixed results.
The control is marginal when compared to a properly obedience-
trained dog. Dogs’ heads come in all shapes and sizes, too, and
your Golden may be clever enough to slip out of a head halter.
Some dogs will toss their heads back and forth, risking neck
injury. Dogs that are prone to overheat may have their airflow
restricted and may be in greater danger of overheating with a head
halter. Most dogs I’ve seen with these halters don’t understand that
they’re supposed to behave and simply start pulling when the own-
ers use a regular collar. Finally, these halters look like muzzles and
may give a bad impression of your Golden. AKC events don’t allow
head halters, so if you train with one, you will also have to train with
a regular training collar.

Leashes
A variety of leashes is available, including nylon, leather, cotton,
retractable, leashes made from mountain-climbing rope, and others.
When you look for a training leash, it should be a six-foot latigo
leather leash.

Latigo Leather
Why a latigo leather leash? They’re expensive, certainly, but well
worth the money. If your Golden pulls at all on his leash—and
many do—a leash made from nylon or other materials will cut into
your hands. Leather won’t.
When I first got into dogs, I
Retriever Rewards
used the traditional nylon leash.
Leather is remarkably
A trainer showed me the error
strong, but it is tasty
of my ways, and I switched to a (to dogs, anyway), so keep it
leather leash. All of a sudden, my out of reach.
dogs began paying attention to me
102 Part 3: Dog Training 101

and my hands stopped hurting. Save the nylon leashes for when
your Golden is a perfect heeler—buy a leather leash now.
What about those retractable leads? They are useful to train
“Come,” but usually aren’t strong enough for a big dog like a
Golden. Likewise, you will have
very little control with them.
Golden Glossary
Tracking leads Leashes
made from cotton or Long Lines
nylon that can be 10 to 30 feet
in length. Trainers use these Long lines are long leashes (usually
leads for tracking work (hence called tracking leads) used for train-
the name) but also for distance ing. You’ll want at least a tracking
work such as working on the lead or a retractable lead for work-
Recall command.
ing on commands such as Come.

Clicker
This is a special device used in clicker training (see Chapter 6). It’s a
small, rectangular box that has a strip of thin metal inside. You press
on the metal strip to make a definite click noise. If you plan to use
clicker training, you’ll need several of these (you can lose them).

Bait Pouches
Golden Glossary
No, we’re not talking fish! Bait
Bait pouches Little
pouches that enable you pouches are little pouches that
to carry treats if you don’t have enable you to carry your treats if
pockets or if you don’t want to you don’t have pockets or if you
get your pockets messy. They’re don’t want to get your pockets
called “bait” because when you
messy. The AKC allows bait
stack a dog in conformation,
you lure or “bait” him with a pouches in conformation dog
treat so that he will look atten- shows but not in obedience, agility,
tive. or other forms of performance
competition.
Chapter 7: Training Ground Rules 103

Treats
Treats can be anything your Golden likes. Some people use dog bis-
cuits or other doggy snacks, but many trainers offer bits of hot dog,
cheese, cooked bacon, cold cuts, liver, and other enticing items. The
treat should be small enough just to give your Golden a taste. You
don’t want your dog to spend one or two minutes eating a treat and
get distracted from his training. Also, you will be giving him many
treats when you train, and you don’t want him to get fat!

The Canine Good Citizen®


In 1989, the American Kennel Club created the Canine Good
Citizen®‚ test to encourage responsible dog ownership. The CGC®
title is available to all dogs, purebred or mixed breed—unlike other
AKC titles, which are offered to only purebred dogs. Although the
Canine Good Citizen® is not technically an official AKC title, dog
owners may put CGC® after their dog’s name.
Regardless of how much training you plan to do with your
Golden, he should at least earn a CGC® to prove that he is a well-
mannered dog.

Obtaining the CGC®


The CGC® is a series of 10 tests designed to showcase a dog’s good
manners and appearance. Dogs must pass all 10 at one test session
to earn a CGC®; all are pass or fail. Dogs may take the CGC® test
until they pass. The 10 tests are as follows:
1. Accepting a Friendly Stranger: The dog must show no fear
when someone unfamiliar approaches the dog’s owner and
talks to him or her.
2. Sitting Politely for Petting: The dog must accept petting by
a stranger when the dog is with his owner.
104 Part 3: Dog Training 101

3. Appearance and Grooming: The dog must accept being brushed


gently by the evaluator and allow the evaluator to pick up each
foot and examine the dog’s ears. The dog is also judged on
whether he is clean and groomed.
4. Walking on a Loose Lead: The dog must walk on a loose lead
and walk with the handler, including turns and stops.
5. Walking Through a Crowd: The dog must walk through a crowd
of people without pulling, jumping on people, or acting fearful.
6. Sit and Down on Command, Staying in Place: The dog must
sit and lie down on command. The dog then must stay in place
while the owner walks 20 feet away and returns to the dog. The
dog may change position but must stay in the same place.
7. Coming When Called: The dog must wait while the owner walks
10 feet away and then calls the dog. The dog must come to the
owner.
8. Reaction to Another Dog: The dog must show no more than
a casual interest in another dog as that dog and his handler
approach the first dog and his owner.
9. Reaction to Distraction: The dog must show no fear when faced
with two everyday distractions. The dog may show curiosity, but
not aggression or shyness.
10. Supervised Separation: The dog must accept being left with the
evaluator for three minutes while the owner is out of sight.

No Biscuit!
If your Golden is shy—that is, he cringes when he sees other
humans—try to bring him to places to see and meet people. Start with
relatively uncrowded parks and get him used to people there and then
slowly build up.
If your Golden acts fearful or aggressive toward people, consult a pro-
fessional dog behaviorist for help. You need to retrain and socialize
your Golden before he becomes a hazard.
Chapter 7: Training Ground Rules 105

Training for the CGC®


Training for the Canine Good Citizen® requires good socialization
and basic obedience. Some trainers teach CGC® classes to prepare
for the test. But ideally, CGC® training should start the moment you
obtain your Golden as a puppy. Your Golden is ready to meet the
world after he has had his last series of vaccinations—usually after
16 weeks.
Bring your Golden to different places and meet different people.
Going to obedience classes, fun matches, dog parks, pet supply
stories, and other places that allow dogs will help socialize your
Golden Retriever. Bring your Golden to the mall or supermarket
sometimes and have him stand outside to experience crowds; this
will help desensitize him to strangers and crowds in a big way.

The Least You Need to Know


≠ Spend 5 to 10 minutes a day working on commands.
≠ Never get angry at your Golden. If you feel yourself
becoming angry or frustrated, stop.
≠ Use positive training techniques (reward and praise) instead
of negative techniques (punishment and fear).
≠ Always end a training session on a positive note.
≠ The minimum equipment you’ll need is a training collar
(usually a slip collar), a six-foot leather leash, and treats.
Other useful items include clickers and long lines.
≠ The Canine Good Citizen® (CGC®) title is open to any dog,
purebred or mixed breed, and is a type of basic obedience
test for dogs offered through the AKC.
Chapter

8
The Golden Rule—Basic
Training
In This Chapter
≠ Teach your Golden Retriever clicker training
≠ Learn what positive training is
≠ Learn how to teach your Golden Sit, Down, Stay, Come, walk
nicely on a leash, and Heel
≠ Teach your Golden other useful commands

A well-trained Golden is a joy to own. But how do you get from


a frisky pup to one who will listen to you? And is it hard to do?
Obedience training doesn’t have to be difficult or tedious. For
all training in this and subsequent chapters, I provide two methods
of training: positive reinforcement and clicker training. Both are fun
to teach and don’t punish your Golden. In fact, you might have so
much fun that you’ll forget you’re actually training your Golden.
In this chapter, I cover the basic obedience commands: Sit, Stay,
Heel, Come, and Down. I also throw in some important commands
you might not have thought about, such as Watch me and Leave it.
108 Part 3: Dog Training 101

Clicker Training
Clicker training is a method of positive training that has taken the
animal training world by storm. Clicker training has been promoted
by notable trainers such as Karen Pryor and Gary Wilkes.
Clicker training is a form of operant conditioning, meaning that
the dog learns behaviors by experiencing the consequences of cer-
tain actions. Operant conditioning is how most animals, and even
people, learn. On the positive side of operant conditioning, the
animal does something and receives a reward. On the negative side,
the animal does something and receives a punishment.

Golden Glossary
Operant conditioning A learning method in which the ani-
mal learns from the consequences of his actions.
Positive reinforcement A training method in which you reward desir-
able behavior.
Negative reinforcement A training method in which you punish or
discourage an undesirable behavior.

Clicker training uses primarily positive reinforcement—that is,


the animal does something and receives a reward. With the clicker,
you teach your dog to associate the sound of the click with a treat.
When your dog does something right, you click and then give him
a treat. When he performs a behavior you don’t want, you ignore it.
Sounds pretty simple, doesn’t it?
Clicking works much the same as praise does, although instead
of saying “Good Dog!” you click. Click, treat. Click, treat. It’s very
simple and quite effective. Your dog will associate the correct action
(the one you clicked for) with the treat. Eventually, he’ll learn that
the click means “You did it right!” even when there’s no treat forth-
coming.
Chapter 8: The Golden Rule—Basic Training 109

Retriever Rewards
Where can you get a clicker? Many training facilities and
even pet supply stores have clickers, but you can also pur-
chase them online on Karen Pryor’s website at www.clickertraining.
com or 1-800-47-CLICK. You can purchase a target stick there, too.
Or if you want to make your own target stick, buy a yard-long half-
inch dowel and either paint it or wrap it with colorful tape.

Intro to the Clicker


Start while your dog isn’t doing anything in particular, preferably
before his feeding time when he’s a bit hungry. Show him the
clicker. Now, click and give him a treat. If your dog is startled by
the loud noise, try muffling it a bit in your hand when you click it.
Click and give him a treat. Click, treat. Click, treat. You may
have to do this for a bit, but at some point your dog will start pick-
ing up that when he hears a click, he’s going to get a treat. You
should click, and he should look expectantly at you for the treat.
Sometimes it takes a while
for the dog to make the associ-
ation. This is okay. If, after Retriever Rewards
five minutes or so, you haven’t What you’ll need to get
made any progress, put away started with the clicker:
the clicker and play with your ≠ A clicker (buy several—
dog. Try again tomorrow. they get lost easily)
≠ A target stick
When your dog makes the ≠ Treats (lots)
association between the click
and the treat, you’ll be ready to
vary the response times.
110 Part 3: Dog Training 101

Golden Glossary
Why use the clicker at all? The clicker is a way to mark the
desirable behavior. Although you can use your voice, people’s
timing often isn’t as effective as a clicker is. While you’re still trying to
say the word “Good,” you could’ve clicked and treated.
Because our dogs hear our voices so much, sometimes they tune us
out. The clicker establishes a definite means of communicating that the
action you clicked for was the right action.

Vary the Response Times


Varying the time between the click and the treat and where he receives
the treat will teach your dog that she can expect a treat even if it’s a
little delayed or it may not be in your hand, but tossed on the ground.
Click and silently count to five. Your dog may look expectantly
to you or even drool a bit before you give her the treat. When you
get to five, give her the treat. Now click again and count to three
silently and then treat her. Now click and silently count to 10 and
treat. If she gets insistent or pushy, don’t do anything. Just wait until
she stops before you give her the treat. Her correct response is to
wait patiently until she gets the treat.
After she is used to varying times, click and toss the treat in front
of her. Your dog should eat the treat, but if she has problems, show
her the treat and tell her “Good dog!” when she picks it up. Click and
toss the treat somewhere else, after she has figured out that the treat
doesn’t have to come from your hand.

Training with the Target Stick


Now that your Golden is used to hearing a click and receiving a treat,
the fun begins! You start with target stick training. Target sticks are
great for teaching your dog where to go or to touch certain things
with his nose or paw.
Chapter 8: The Golden Rule—Basic Training 111

© Carolyn Risdon

Training with treats. This is Brandy and Susie Risdon.

First, get out your clicker, your bag of treats, and your target
stick. Hold the target stick out for your dog to sniff. If he touches
the stick, click and treat. You may have to wiggle the stick a bit to
get him interested in it. Even if he accidentally touches it, you must
click and treat.
Suppose that your Golden doesn’t touch the stick? Well, you can
start by shaping the behavior. Shaping is a fancy term for teaching
the behavior you want in small increments. For example, you will
click and treat when your dog looks at the stick. Every time your
dog looks at the stick, you should click and treat. Then, after he
looks at the stick and waits for you to click, wait and see what he
does next. He may stare at it longer or perhaps nudge or paw the
112 Part 3: Dog Training 101

stick. If he needs encouragement, wave the stick close to him, but


don’t touch the stick to him—instead, let your dog touch the stick.
Click and treat.
After your dog touches the stick and subsequently hears a click
and gets a treat, he may be puzzled. After all, he’s been doing noth-
ing to get a click and treat, but now he has to work for it. Offer the
stick again and see whether your dog will touch it (accidentally or
on purpose). Click and treat when he does.
Some dogs quickly learn to touch the target stick. Others take
time, and you may need several sessions before your dog starts
touching the target stick. When your Golden touches the target
stick consistently, start using a cue word, such as “Touch,” before
your dog touches the stick.

Golden Glossary
Cue A word or signal that a dog is supposed to associate
with a particular behavior.
Shaping Starting with a basic behavior that is relatively easy to
obtain and slowly progressing to the behavior you want. For example,
teaching a dog to touch something with his paw can be shaped to
waving good-bye, closing or opening a door, or other behaviors by
clicking at incremental steps until the dog displays the final desired
behavior.

Adding Cue Words


In the preceding lesson, you began using cue words, with “Touch.”
Although we tend to call them commands, these words are actually
cues for the behavior you want your Golden to do. You start by say-
ing the word as your dog is about to do the desired behavior. He
will eventually learn this means you want him to do it.
After your Golden knows “Touch,” you can begin to differenti-
ate between touching the target stick with the nose (“Nose it”) and
Chapter 8: The Golden Rule—Basic Training 113

touching it with the paw (“Paw it”). Make it easy for your Golden
Retriever by putting the target stick close to either his nose or his
paw. Wait for him to touch it appropriately (let’s say we’re working
on “Paw it”). Click and treat. He should start pawing the target
stick. Click and treat each time. Now that he’s primed for pawing
the target stick, say “Paw it” before he paws it and click and treat.
Add this cue word and move the stick around so he has to work a
bit to touch it with his paw. Give him the command “Paw it” each
time, and click and treat when he does.
You need to teach him “Nose
Golden Glimmers
it” as well. Teach your dog the
same way you taught “Paw it,” Suppose you don’t want to use
only click and treat when he noses the clicker in training? That’s
okay. Try the positive reinforce-
the stick.
ment method described
Now it’s time to take these throughout this chapter.
skills into the real world.

Walk Nicely on a Leash


Every dog needs to learn how to walk while on a leash without
pulling. Otherwise, your Golden will drag you around, and it’ll
be no fun taking her for a walk.

Positive Method
If your Golden has never been on the leash before, put a training
collar on her and clip the leash to it. Have a handful of treats in
your pocket when you begin walking with her.
At first, she may whirl around you or start pulling. Take a treat
out of your pocket and use it to lure her into the proper position, so
she isn’t pulling on the leash. Praise her and give her the treat when
she focuses on you instead of pulling. If she forges ahead or lags
behind, a gentle tug on the leash is all it takes to bring her back to
114 Part 3: Dog Training 101

where you want her to be. Whenever she walks nicely, tell her
“Good girl!” and give her a treat. As she starts walking nicely, you
can slowly reduce the amount of treats and increase the praise.

Clicker Method
You’ll need a clicker and treats. If your Golden has never been on
the leash before, put a training collar on her and clip the leash to it.
At first, she may whirl around you or start pulling. Ignore the
bad behavior and just wait—don’t start out. When she no longer
pulls, click and treat. You’ll have to be patient with her and wait for
her to do the right thing—that is, not pull. Continue to click and
treat for a loose leash. You’re rewarding your Golden for not tug-
ging on the leash.
After she’s waiting for you without pulling, start walking. If she
keeps her leash loose, click and treat. If she starts pulling on the
leash, stop and wait. When she gives you an appropriate behavior
(loose leash, sit, and so on), click and treat. Whenever she pulls, stop
immediately and wait for her to give you a loose leash. When she
does, click and treat, then start on your way again.
Your Golden will figure out
Golden Glimmers
that walking with a loose leash
Fade To slowly remove an means going forward and clicks,
intermediate training object, and that pulling means nothing
such as a clicker or target fun is happening. Because walking
stick, or an intermediate cue to
leave the end result—the cue
is a reward in itself, after she has
and the action. learned the loose leash concept,
you can fade the clicker.

Sit
Sit is a useful command in everyday manners. If your Golden is get-
ting rowdy, a quick Sit command can help settle him down.
Chapter 8: The Golden Rule—Basic Training 115

Positive Method
In the positive method, take a treat and hold it just above your dog’s
nose. Bring the treat up over and behind his head while gently push-
ing on his rear end. Tell him, “Rusty, Sit!” Give him the treat and
praise him after he sits. Some dogs may not naturally sit. If your dog
won’t sit or if he backs up instead of sitting, try teaching him with
his back to the wall so that he must sit because he doesn’t have
anywhere to go. Practice this a few times until he starts sitting on
command.

Clicker Method
In the clicker method, you’ll need to take a treat or use the target
stick and hold it just above your dog’s nose. Tell your dog to “Nose
it” and bring the treat or target stick back over his head. As he
follows the treat or the target stick, his rump will start to drop.
When it touches the floor, click and treat. Repeat several times.
Some dogs may not naturally sit. If your dog won’t sit or if he
backs up instead of sitting, try teaching him with his back to the
wall so that he must sit because he doesn’t have anywhere to go.
After you have your dog sitting with the clicker, add the cue
word. Tell him, “Rusty, Sit!” before having him sit with either the
treat or the target stick. After your dog is familiar with the cue,
you’ll need to fade the lure or target stick and stop telling him to
Nose it. Instead, substitute the cue to Sit.

Down
Down is also a useful command for everyday manners. You can prac-
tice Down when you’re watching TV or reading a book. Like Sit,
you can also use Down to help calm your Golden.
116 Part 3: Dog Training 101

Positive Method
In the positive method, have your dog sit. Now take a treat and hold
it below her nose. Bring the treat downward toward her chest and
then all the way to the floor, while gently pushing on her shoulders.
Tell her, “Goldie, Down!” Give her the treat and praise her after she
lies down. Practice this a few times until she starts lying down on
command.

Clicker Method
In the clicker method, you’ll need to have your dog sit. Now take a
treat or use the target stick and hold it below your dog’s nose. Tell
your dog to “Nose it” and bring the treat or target stick downward
toward her chest and then all the way to the floor. As she follows the
treat or the target stick, her front legs will start to drop. When her
elbows touch the floor, click and treat. Repeat several times.
After you have your dog lying down with the clicker, add the
cue. Tell her “Goldie, Down!” before having her lie down with
either the treat or the target stick. When your dog is familiar with
the command, you’ll need to fade the lure or target stick and stop
telling her to Nose it. Instead, substitute the cue to get Down.

Stay
The next command your Golden should learn after Sit and Down is
Stay. This is useful because you will sometimes want your Golden to
hold a Sit or Down for more than a few seconds.

Positive Method
Have your Golden sit beside you while on a leash. Tell him “Stay!”
and hold up your flat, open hand in front of his face for emphasis.
Take a step or two and turn to face him. If he tries to move, tell him
Chapter 8: The Golden Rule—Basic Training 117

“No! Stay!” and put him back in position. It usually takes a few
times for the dog to learn that you want him to stay. Make him stay
for a few seconds, return to him, release him with “OK,” and praise
him and give him treats.

Clicker Method
Have your dog sit beside you while on a leash. Do not click yet.
Tell him “Stay!” and hold up your flat, open hand in front of his
face for emphasis. Take a step or two and turn to face him. If he
gets up, put him back in sit and don’t click yet. When you are facing
your Golden, and he has held the sit for a few seconds, click and
treat. Return to him, release him with “OK” (see “OK! The Release
Word,” following), and click and treat.
Note that a puppy younger than six months can’t be expected
to stay longer than a few seconds. There are too many interesting
things out there to explore!

Practicing Sit-Stay and Down-Stay


Practice Stay in both Sit and Down. You will slowly lengthen the
amount of time or the distance of the stay, but not both. If she gets
up during the stay, decrease the amount of time or distance until she
stays reliably. Increase the distance or time only when she is staying
reliably. If you’re using the clicker, you will have to click and treat at
the end of the time you expect your dog to stay. Remember, you
must build up slowly to ensure success.

OK! The Release Word


How do you release your dog from a Sit-Stay or Down-Stay? Most
trainers like to use the word “OK!” to release a dog from the Stay.
It’s an easy word to remember, and your Golden will figure it out
after only a few times.
118 Part 3: Dog Training 101

To release your dog from a stay, say in a happy voice “Goldie,


OK!” If your Golden still holds the stay, a quick pat will convince
her that she’s done. After a couple of stays, your Golden will be
waiting for the release word.

Come
Come is a vital command for your Golden to learn. Unfortunately,
too many dogs don’t have a reliable recall. This can be dangerous,
if not deadly. A dog that won’t come when you call him may be hit
by a car or may take off into the wilderness. Don’t let this happen!
Start by teaching your Golden Retriever that good things hap-
pen when you call him. Give him a treat every time he comes to
you. Always praise your Golden for coming, and never call your
Golden to you when you correct him—always go to him.

Positive Method—Starting Out


Start training Come in an enclosed area. (This is important, because
if your dog sees something he’d rather chase or is not reliable, he’ll
learn that he only has to Come when he feels like it.) You’ll need
the six-foot leash. Clip the leash to your Golden’s collar. Put your
Golden in a Sit-Stay, walk out to the end of the leash, and turn
around. Say “Rusty, Come!” in a happy, upbeat tone.
If you’ve been practicing with treats, your Golden will probably
come right to you. Give him a treat and praise him for being such
a good boy! If you haven’t been practicing Come or if your Golden
sits and looks at you as though you were a space alien, try again, this
time more enthusiastically. You may want to tug lightly on the leash
so that he gets the idea he should come to you.
After you’ve praised him and given him treats, put him in a Sit-
Stay again and walk out to the end of his leash. Be careful that he
doesn’t break his Stay in his enthusiasm to come to you. If he does,
Chapter 8: The Golden Rule—Basic Training 119

tell him “No, Stay,” and put him back in his Sit-Stay. Don’t sound
angry when you do this, just be matter-of-fact. Then tell him to
Come again.
Practice Come at short distances. Then gradually lengthen the
distance with a long-line or a retractable leash (Flexi-lead™). When
you call your Golden to Come, either retract the leash or quickly
reel in the long-line. If, at any time, your Golden fails to come
directly to you, return to shorter distances.

Clicker Method—Starting Out


Clicker training your Golden to come is a little different than train-
ing using the positive method. Like the positive method, however,
an important aspect of training Come is to always reward your dog
for coming to you. That means all good things come from you, so
if you have to correct your dog, you should go to him, not call him
to you.
You should also train your dog to Come in an enclosed area.
This is important, because if your dog sees something he’d rather
chase or is not reliable, he’ll learn that he only has to Come when
he feels like it. If you’re unable to train in an enclosed area, an
alternative is to use a retractable leash or a tracking lead. Keep your
dog on the tracking lead or the retractable leash when training in
an area that isn’t enclosed.
Let your Golden loose in your enclosed area (or have him on a
retractable leash). Most dogs, when they know you have the clicker,
will come right to you. Click and treat. If your dog doesn’t come to
you while he’s loose, try showing him the treat, then click and treat
when he comes.
After he comes to you, start using the cue word, “Come!” You can
pair it with your dog’s name, such as “Rusty, Come!” and click and
treat when he does.
120 Part 3: Dog Training 101

When your Golden comes reliably, put a leash on him and put
him in a Sit-Stay. Walk out to the end of his leash. Be careful that
he doesn’t break his Stay in his enthusiasm to come to you. If he
does, put him back in his Sit-Stay.
Retriever Rewards Then, tell him to Come again.
Retractable leashes Click and treat when he comes.
are wonderful for Practice Come at short dis-
teaching Come. When you put
your Golden in a Sit-Stay, feed
tances. Then gradually lengthen
out as much line as you’ll need the distance with a long-line or a
for the recall and then lock the retractable leash. When you call
leash in place. Then go to the your Golden in, either retract the
spot you intend to call him to, leash or quickly reel in the long-
give your command to Come,
and release the lock so that the line. If, at any time, your Golden
line retracts. fails to come directly to you,
return to shorter distances.

Add Distractions (Positive and Clicker Methods)


When you think your Golden is reliably coming to you on a leash,
try adding distractions. A busy park is a good place to practice. Start
with a six-foot leash and practice recalls as though you were just
starting out.
Your Golden may be too excited by his surroundings to pay
attention to you. Try using treats to focus his attention on you,
rather than the distractions. If six feet is too great a distance, work
with him at a shorter distance. Then gradually increase the distance.

Practicing Come Off-Leash (Positive and Clicker Methods)


Eventually, you will want to practice off-leash recalls. Find an
enclosed area such as your backyard, a dog training area at a local
park, or maybe a fenced-in baseball diamond. If, at any time, your
Golden takes off or ignores you, it’s time to go back to the begin-
ning and work on basic recall training.
Chapter 8: The Golden Rule—Basic Training 121

Heeling on Leash
The correct position for your Golden to heel, sit, and lie down is
beside you, on your left side, with the dog facing forward. This is
known as the heel position. When you walk your dog, you should be
holding the leash loosely in your
left hand to control the dog, with Golden Glossary
any excess length of leash looped Heel position A
in the right hand. This will give position in which your
you the maximum control over the dog sits or stands beside your
dog—even a large, strong Golden. left side, next to your knee.

Positive Method
To put your Golden in the heel position, move him to your left side.
When he stands or sits for a few moments in heel position, give him
a treat and praise him. Use a one-word command such as “Place”
or “Heel” to mean heel position. Practice putting your dog in heel
position and reward him when he stands or sits straight in that posi-
tion. Do not reward sloppily performed commands. Try again and
give your dog the treat when he is in the proper position.

Golden Glimmers
Why worry about which foot to use for Stay versus Heel? Dogs,
especially Goldens, are keen observers and will notice which foot
you use when you say “Stay” and which foot you use when you
begin to walk at the command “Heel.” The left foot is closest to your
Golden when you heel, so he will see that movement first.
When you put your Golden in a Stay, do so on your left side and
leave with the right foot first. Your Golden won’t see the movement
right away, and it will be an extra signal to stay.

After your Golden knows the heel position, you can teach him
to heel. Your Golden should be sitting in heel position with his
122 Part 3: Dog Training 101

training collar and leash on. Have a treat in your left hand. Say
“Rusty, Heel!” and start walking, left foot forward first. If your dog
starts to forge ahead or lag behind, get his attention by showing him
the treat and lure him into the correct position. When he is in the
correct position, praise him and give him a treat. If he lags because
he is unsure what to do, pat your leg and encourage him to come
beside you. Likewise, if he forges ahead, pull him back using the
leash or have him focus on the treat and lure him back. Give him
the treat when he’s in the proper position.
When you stop, have him sit in the heel position and give him a
treat. When you start again, always start walking with your left foot.
Dogs see the left leg movement before the right. Also, it becomes
another signal to your dog that he is to move with you.

Clicker Method
To put your Golden in the heel position, have him on a leash but
let him move about freely. As he approaches your left side, click and
treat. He may be surprised by your click and treat, but he will try
to repeat the performance. As he does, click and treat and shape the
behavior until he is standing at your side.
When he stands or sits for a few moments in heel position, click
and treat. Use a one-word cue such as “Place” or “Heel” to mean
heel position. Practice putting your dog in the heel position and
click and treat when he stands or sits straight in that position.
When your Golden knows the heel position, you can teach
him to heel. Your Golden should be sitting in heel position with
his training collar and leash on. Have a treat in your left hand. Say
“Rusty, Heel!” and start walking, putting your left foot forward first.
If your dog starts to forge ahead or lag behind, get his attention by
showing him the treat and lure him into the correct position. Click
and treat when he is in the correct position. If he lags because he’s
unsure what to do, pat your leg and encourage him to come beside
Chapter 8: The Golden Rule—Basic Training 123

you. If he forges ahead, stop and wait for him to stop pulling and
go back to the heel position. When he does, click and treat.
When you stop, have him sit in the heel position and click and
treat. When you start again, always start by moving the left foot for-
ward first. Dogs see the left leg movement before the right. Also, it
becomes another signal to your Golden that he is to move with you.

Other Useful Commands


You may find other commands useful for training your Golden,
although you won’t find them in competitive obedience. Some of
these commands help reshape your Golden’s behavior—teaching
him an acceptable behavior that he can substitute for an unaccept-
able one. Other commands will help teach your Golden what you
want him to do, including “Out” and “Bed.”
You may add more words to your Golden’s repertoire as you
need them, but the basic commands are “Off,” “Drop,” “Leave it,”
“Watch me,” “Out,” and “Bed.”
Most of these commands are easy to teach—you may teach your
Golden these commands without knowing you’ve done it! I’ve acci-
dentally taught my dogs “Oops!” That means “I’m clumsy, and I just
dropped something.” Usually that something is food, and my dogs
know when I say “Oops” to look on the floor for tidbits.

The Off Command


Off is a command meaning “All four paws on the floor, please!” Use
this command whenever you mean “Get down from that!” You can
use this command when your Golden jumps up on you. When he
does, tell him “Off!” and push him down so all four feet are on the
ground. Then, give him a treat.
Use Off when your Golden has sneaked up on the couch or
some other forbidden piece of furniture.
124 Part 3: Dog Training 101

The Drop or Trade Command


Dogs use their mouth like a hand and pick up anything interesting.
Sometimes, however, the item your Golden picks up isn’t good for
her. Your Golden should learn two commands: Drop it and Trade.
If your Golden isn’t possessive about food, you can try Drop it.
You can teach it by gently squeezing open your Golden’s mouth
with your fingers where the upper and lower jaws meet. When your
Golden opens his mouth, say “Drop it,” and let the item fall from
his mouth. Give him a treat for being a good dog and take the items
away.
If your Golden’s jaws are too strong, or you’re afraid of getting
bitten, there is an alternative method. Say “Trade!” and offer a treat
that is better than what your Golden has in his mouth. Your Golden
usually will drop the item for
No Biscuit! something more tasty.
Some dogs are nat- You can practice Trade easily.
urally possessive of their toys
When your Golden is chewing
and treats. If you try to take
those things from them, they can on a rawhide or playing with a
become aggressive. If your toy, offer to trade for something
Golden acts possessive, you yummy. When your Golden drops
should trade instead of trying the toy for your treat, take the toy
to take the object away.
and give your Golden the treat at
the same time.

Leave it! Command


Leave it! is a command that tells your Golden to leave whatever
interests him alone. Usually you do this by pulling the dog away
with a short snap of the collar. However, you can also combine this
action with a Watch me! command.
Chapter 8: The Golden Rule—Basic Training 125

Watch me! Command


You can use Watch me! to get your Golden to pay attention to you,
rather than something else. Start by showing him a treat and bring-
ing the treat up to your face. Tell him “Watch me!” Give your
Golden the treat when he makes eye contact.

Out Command
You can tell your Golden when to go to the door to go outside by
associating the word “out” with the action. When you walk your
Golden or let him outside in the backyard, simply say “Out!” It
won’t take long before he learns what “Out” means.

“Bed” Command
Bed is another command most
Goldens learn by association. Retriever Rewards
When you tell your Golden to go Play with your
Golden after each
to his “bed” or “crate,” he learns
training session. The play will be
quickly what his bed is. You can a reward, and both you and
easily teach your Golden to go your Golden will look forward
into his crate by tossing a treat to a little fun afterwards.
into it and telling him “Bed.”

The Least You Need to Know


≠ An obedience-trained Golden is a joy to own. Don’t have an
out-of-control dog—they’re a nuisance at best, and a danger
at worst.
≠ You can use either clicker training or positive reinforcement to
train your Golden.
≠ When using the clicker method, you’ll be using both the
clicker and target stick.
126 Part 3: Dog Training 101

≠ When using positive methods, you’ll be reinforcing behavior


with a motivational object like food or toys.
≠ The basic commands are Sit, Down, Stay, Heel, and Come.
≠ Your Golden may need to learn other commands, such as Drop
it or Trade, Leave it, Off, Bed, Out, and Watch me.
Chapter

9
Tricky Goldens—
Teaching Tricks
In This Chapter
≠ Understand why trick training isn’t just frivolous
≠ Learn how to teach your Golden to shake hands, speak, take a
bow, fetch, roll over, wave goodbye, kiss, and beg
≠ Learn how to make up your own fun tricks
≠ Learn how to use the clicker to trick train
≠ Learn how to identify a behavior and make it into a trick

“Oh sure, your dog can sit, but does he know any tricks?” No
doubt your friends have asked you that question. All obedience and
no play makes for a dull Golden. But tricks aren’t just fun—they
focus your Golden Retriever on learning from you.
In this chapter, you’ll learn how to teach your Golden tricks.
You’ll also learn how to make up your own tricks and have fun with
your Golden.
128 Part 3: Dog Training 101

Teaching Tricks
If you’re a serious person, tricks may seem like a frivolous waste
of time. After all, tricks don’t teach your Golden how to come or
housetrain him, so what’s the use when your Golden still isn’t sitting
100 percent of the time?
Tricks accomplish several things. First and foremost, they teach
your Golden to pay attention to you. They teach him how to learn
while doing something silly or fun. Tricks are an easy way to instill
confidence in your Golden Retriever as well. If he doesn’t quite get
a trick, no biggie—you can teach him something else. Last, it’ll give
you something to show off the
next time your friends ask whether
Golden Glossary your Golden knows any tricks.
Mark To designate a
behavior as desirable. Teaching tricks is relatively
easy. In Chapters 7 and 8, I
showed you how to train using a
clicker and target stick. You’ll be
Retriever Rewards using them for trick training, too,
Your Golden may not
because clicker training marks a
figure out what you
want from her when teaching a behavior almost immediately.
trick. If she doesn’t quite get it, The best way to teach a trick is
try breaking the trick down into
simple components or try an-
to wait until your dog exhibits the
other way to get her to do the behavior you’re looking for. For
trick. example, if your Golden does a
cute roll onto his back, you can
click and treat him for that.

Fun Tricks to Try


What are good tricks to try with your Golden? Some of the easiest
are also some of the most fun. Start with an easy trick first, such as
shaking hands or speaking on command. When your Golden has
mastered that, start thinking about teaching her other simple tricks.
Chapter 9: Tricky Goldens—Teaching Tricks 129

Shake Hands
Shake Hands or “paw” is one of the easiest tricks for your Golden to
learn. If your Golden knows “Touch it” or “Paw it” with a clicker
(explained in Chapter 8), hold out your hand and tell him “Touch it”
or “Paw it.” When your Golden raises his paw to touch, grasp his
paw, click and treat, and then release his paw. Do this a few times
until he starts giving you his paw by himself. Continue to click and
treat. Now, give him a cue word, such as “shake hands” or “paw.”
(Be careful not to use the same word for a different command.)
Click and treat when he gives you a paw after you use the cue word.
Continue until he’s consistent.

No Biscuit!
Before you teach your dog to do something, make sure you’re
not teaching him anything dangerous or obnoxious. Your buddies might
think it’s cool that your Golden brought you a cold one from the fridge, but
you’ve just taught your Golden how to open the refrigerator, where all sorts
of good foods wait for raiding afterward. Teaching a dog to dial 911 isn’t
a great idea either—especially when your Golden starts dialing foreign
countries or summons the police for the third time on a Saturday night.

Another method is to say the word “paw” or “shake hands” and


take your dog’s paw in your hands. Click and treat or give him praise
and a treat. Do this a few times,
and your Golden will learn No Biscuit!
quickly to give you his paw. Teaching your
Golden to speak is usually pretty
easy. It’s keeping him from bark-
Speak ing all the time that’s the chal-
lenge. You may find that you’ve
Speak isn’t that much more diffi- opened the Pandora’s Box when
cult than Shake Hands, provided teaching your Golden to be
that your Golden barks. (Most vocal, so be aware that this
do!) Start with the clicker and could be a problem.
130 Part 3: Dog Training 101

click and treat whenever your Golden barks. He may be surprised


and try to bark again. Click and treat. As your Golden continues to
bark for a treat, add a cue word such as “Speak.”
You can also teach your Golden to speak by telling him “Speak”
when he barks and praising him (and giving him a treat).

Take a Bow
A fun trick you can teach your dog is to take a bow. You can click
and treat when he does a play bow, or you can use the target stick to
lure him into the position. Start by moving the target stick just low
enough so your dog must lower his head to touch it. Click and treat.
Continue a few times until he understands he must lower his head to
get the click.
Now, lower the target stick and bring it toward him so that he
has to lower his front end just a bit to touch it. Click and treat. (If
he moves, don’t click—try to get him to lower his front end.) By
shaping his behavior a little at a time, you can get him to play bow.
Next, add a cue word such as “Bow.” Click and treat for each
bow your Golden takes.

Retriever Rewards
One way to get your Golden interested in an object is to
smear peanut butter on it. Although a few dogs hate peanut
butter (they’re space aliens—I know, I own one!), most love it and will
go to great lengths to carry something in their mouths with peanut but-
ter on it. (Use canned cheese product, such as Cheese Wiz®, for the
mutants.) Just be sure the item can’t be chewed up and swallowed.

Another way to teach a play bow is to lure your Golden into


position. Show him the treat and then slowly bring the treat from
his nose toward his chest. Say “Bow.” (Don’t let him lie down—you
want him to bow.) Either click and treat or give him lots of praise
Chapter 9: Tricky Goldens—Teaching Tricks 131

and treats. Practice this a few times, and you’ll be having your dog
take a bow in no time.

Fetch Something
Your Golden probably knows how to fetch. (He is, after all, a Re-
triever.) But if you haven’t taught your Golden to fetch something,
you can try with either positive training or the clicker. Find a toy or
item you want your Golden to fetch. Try a Frisbee® or a tennis ball.
Show your Golden Retriever the toy and get him interested in it. If
it’s the tennis ball, try bouncing it along the ground and see whether
he runs after it. Give him praise or click and treat when he pays
attention to it. For a Frisbee, you can use special soft, flying discs
made for dogs. Try rolling one along the ground or putting food in
it. Praise him or click and treat whenever he shows interest. Let him
play with it for a while.

© Joe Johnson

Goldens are great at retrieving! This is Zippy.

Now toss the toy a short distance. If your Golden has been
enjoying the toy, he’ll go after it. (If he doesn’t, bring him over to
132 Part 3: Dog Training 101

the toy and play with him and the toy a bit before trying to toss it
again.) After he picks it up, call him to you. Click and treat or praise
him when he comes with the toy. If he drops the toy before he
comes to you, go with him to get
the toy and then tease him with
Retriever Rewards
the toy so he takes it.
Good toys for fetch-
ing include: When your Golden brings
≠ Tennis balls you the toy, offer a trade with a
≠ Rope toys yummy treat, so you’re not play-
ing tug-of-war or making him feel
≠ Frisbees or flying discs
like he must guard it. Then, after
≠ Stuffed toys he gives you the toy, play with
≠ Hard rubber toys him a bit and toss it again. Add
the word “Fetch,” and he’ll be
fetching in no time.

© Marilyn Eudaly

Goldens can retrieve many things, including Frisbees. This is Sampson.


Chapter 9: Tricky Goldens—Teaching Tricks 133

Roll Over
Most dogs roll over for a tummy rub. If your Golden likes his tummy
rubbed, you can pair it with the words “Roll Over,” and he’ll start
doing it in no time.
You can also click and treat when you catch your Golden rolling
over. She may be surprised and try it again, or you may have to wait
until the next time she does it.
Another method you can try is to have your Golden lie down and
use a target stick. Now tell her to “Nose it” and move the stick so
that she will have to roll over to follow it. Click and treat. Do this
several times. Add the cue words “Roll Over” when she is rolling
over, and then slowly fade the target stick.

Wave Good-Bye
This is a silly trick, but it’s a big hit, nonetheless. Hold the target
stick a bit higher than you might to get your dog to paw something
and tell your Golden to “Paw it.” Click and treat. Do this a few times
and raise the target stick to a point where your Golden has to raise
his paw. Click and treat each time.
When you have the wave at a high enough level, substitute the
cue word “Wave.” Click and treat each time. Practice several times
so your Golden knows what “Wave” means. Then start fading the
target stick.

Give Me a Kiss No Biscuit!


Most Goldens are kissy, but if If your Golden has
yours isn’t, you can still get a kiss bad hips or arthritis, skip Beg or
on command. Click and treat other tricks that require him to
whenever your Golden licks you put stress on his hips and joints.
and then use the cue word “Kiss.”
134 Part 3: Dog Training 101

If your Golden doesn’t like to lick, try smearing a small amount


of peanut butter or canned cheese product on your cheek and say
“Kiss.” (You can click and treat for this, too.) Practice this fun little
trick, and you’ll soon have a Golden who will kiss on command.

Beg
You can practice Beg with a lure. Start with a treat and hold it over
your Golden’s nose. See whether he’ll raise himself up into begging
position. Click and treat (or praise him and give him the tidbit).
Practice this several times and add the word “Beg.” You’ll have a
begging Golden in no time.

Creating Your Own Tricks


What kind of tricks do you want to teach your Golden? You’re
limited only by your imagination.
Before trying to teach your Golden a trick, first decide whether
it’s something your dog can do. For example, you may be trying
to teach your Golden something he can’t do because of his health.
(Arthritis and joint problems might be an issue, for example.) The
second thing to consider is whether it’s a good idea to teach your
Golden this trick. As I’ve mentioned, teaching your Golden to dial
the phone may not be a good idea. Think the trick through—will
your Golden take it to the next level?
Some tricks will be easy. The best way to teach an easy trick is to
click and treat when you see your Golden do the behavior. But if it’s
not a normal behavior, you may have to lure your dog into it. For
example, in Beg, you had to use a treat to get the behavior you were
looking for.
When creating a more complex trick, consider what you want
your Golden to do and break it up into smaller tasks. For example,
teaching your Golden to drop to the ground and roll over and play
Chapter 9: Tricky Goldens—Teaching Tricks 135

dead when you say “Bang!” requires your Golden to do three things:
lie down, roll over on his back, and stay. You must first teach your
Golden how to do each of these things and then put them together
to make them into the full trick.
This is where the clicker comes in handy. Start first with the
easiest trick, maybe Down. Click and treat for a quick down. Then,
as your Golden drops down, add Roll Over. In this way, you’re
chaining two behaviors together. Last, have your Golden belly up
until you release him. Put the cue word “Bang!” with the chain of
behaviors, and you’ve now got a theatrical performance.

The Least You Need to Know


≠ Tricks are fun, and Goldens can learn a variety of them.
≠ Tricks enable you to interact with your Golden in a non-
disciplinary way.
≠ Your Golden will learn how to learn and will bond more
closely with you when he learns tricks.
≠ You can make up new tricks by putting together several
smaller tricks.
10
Chapter

Recalcitrant Retrievers
In This Chapter
≠ Correcting bad behavior before it gets out of hand
≠ Dealing with chewing and other destructive behavior
≠ Correcting house-soiling, jumping up, digging, excessive
barking, and aggression
≠ Stopping the escape artist
≠ Separation anxiety
≠ Fear of thunder and other loud noises

One look at the local shelter will confirm that most dogs are
relinquished between the ages of six months and two years. Many
times, the puppy is no longer considered cute and has a behavior
problem their owners are unwilling or unable to change.
In this chapter, I discuss how good Golden Retrievers go bad
and what you can do to prevent it. If you’re already at the stage
where you’re having problems, I’ll recommend practical solutions
to the most common bad behaviors.
138 Part 3: Dog Training 101

When Good Dogs Go Bad


You’re reading this chapter for one of two reasons: you want to pre-
vent a problem from happening, or you already have a problem
you’re trying to fix. If you’re reading for the first reason, congratula-
tions! It’s easier to prevent a problem than to fix it. If you’re reading
for the second reason, either you have a problem starting or you’re
at wit’s end and can’t figure out how to fix it.
If you’re at this desperate stage, I have good news and bad
news. The bad news is there are no easy fixes for your Golden’s bad
behavior. The reason the bad behavior continues is because it is
self-rewarding—otherwise your
Golden wouldn’t do it! The good
Retriever Rewards news is that you can take tempo-
A tired Golden is a rary measures to stop the behavior
happy Golden—and
one that is less likely to get into
and give you both a time-out. But
mischief. Exercising or becoming you—as the owner—must make
involved in an activity that both the changes immediately to see
of you enjoy will make him less any type of turnaround. You must
likely to have enough energy
be consistent as well. You can’t try
left over to challenge you or to
cause mischief. the fix for a little while and then
go back to the way you’ve been
doing things.

Breaking the Cycle


So how do you temporarily stop the bad behavior and substitute a
desired behavior in its place? You’ve got to think several steps ahead
of your Golden. You need to keep your Golden from performing
the undesired behavior at all. If you know that your Golden is going
to raid the counter when you put the roast on it, you have to put
the roast in a place where your Golden won’t get it or put your
Golden in a place where he can’t get the roast. This is a temporary
measure, but it breaks the cycle of bad behavior. You must do this
Chapter 10: Recalcitrant Retrievers 139

every time—not just once or twice—or else your Golden will con-
tinue to be rewarded for bad behavior.
The behavior doesn’t change overnight, so expect a new routine.
If that means you must have your Golden in the crate while you
can’t watch him, then do it. But you will also have to add exercise to
his daily regimen to make up for the idle time.
You need to establish yourself as a benevolent leader—one
whom your Golden can look to for guidance. To do this, make your-
self into someone your Golden respects. See if you know the “rules
of the road” when it comes to being your Golden’s owner:
≠ Don’t yell, scream, or hit your Golden. You don’t respect
someone who does that to you; neither does your Golden.
≠ Don’t play tug-of-war. It makes you an equal to your dog.
≠ Only give commands you can enforce. If you can’t enforce a
command, don’t give it; otherwise it makes you look weak.
≠ Have your Golden earn his food and treats. No begging
allowed and no treats unless they’re earned. Have him perform
a trick or a command before giving him any food or snack.
≠ Don’t let your Golden sleep in your bed. You will look like
littermates.
≠ Don’t allow your Golden to mouth you or pull on you.
Goldens are naturally mouthy, but mouthing turns into
nipping.
≠ Don’t allow your Golden on the furniture if there are behav-
ioral problems.
≠ If you eat dinner at roughly the same time, eat your meal
and then feed your Golden when you’re done.
≠ Enter and leave all doors first. Have your Golden wait to
follow you.
140 Part 3: Dog Training 101

≠ Don’t do anything that allows your status to be compromised.


Avoid rough-house and wrestling games and don’t allow your
Golden to climb all over you.
≠ Establish meal times. That means no free feeding.
≠ Exercise your Golden. A good game of fetch or other activity
enables you to interact with him in a fun way.
≠ Work on commands five to
Retriever Rewards ten minutes a day.
Feed your Golden ≠ Practice sit-stays and down-
regular meals instead
of free feeding. It will make him
stays while watching TV or
look to you for his meals instead doing some other quiet
of having them magically ap- activity.
pear in his bowl.
≠ Don’t allow your Golden to
“mount” you.

Signs of Trouble on the Horizon


Before we get into training, the first step is recognizing when there
is potential trouble with your Golden. Look at some of these behav-
iors and see whether your Golden does any of them:
≠ He barks at people and things.
≠ He chews on things he shouldn’t.
≠ He doesn’t listen to commands.
≠ He growls at you if you tell him to move or if you push him
away.
≠ He growls at you if you touch his food or toys.
≠ He lifts his leg in the house.
≠ He mouths your hands.
Chapter 10: Recalcitrant Retrievers 141

≠ He steals things.
≠ He’s able to unlatch and open doors.

So does this mean you have a canine delinquent? Maybe yes;


maybe no. If your Golden is a puppy younger than six months, he’s
probably doing these things because he doesn’t know any better and
hasn’t been properly trained. If
he’s older than that and has never
Retriever Rewards
been consistently obedient or
Spaying and neuter-
trained, then he still doesn’t know ing helps reduce
the rules and has made up his own behavior problems in both
somewhere along the line. It’s up sexes, especially when it comes
to you to teach him what he needs to dominance and aggression.
to know.

How Owners Encourage Bad Behavior


You may be surprised to learn that most dog owners inadvertently
encourage bad behavior. They allow puppies to get away with things
“just this once.” Unfortunately, Golden Retrievers have long memo-
ries when it comes to doing naughty things, and if you let your
Golden get away with something once, you’ve just set a precedent.
Another thing owners do is fail to bond with their Golden. Yes,
as loving and adoring as your Golden can be, it’s not a one-way
street here. Having your Golden sleep in the basement or the
garage—or worse, outside—sends a clear message to the dog that he
isn’t one of the family. The owners don’t establish communication
with their dog and become exasperated when he chews on things,
digs up things, or barks all night.
The opposite of the standoffish owner is the owner who spoils
his dog rotten. The dog sleeps on the bed, steals food, relieves him-
self in the house, and chews on everything. The dog doesn’t listen
to commands because they won’t be enforced—at least not until the
fifth time.
142 Part 3: Dog Training 101

Last, some owners encourage bad behavior by not recognizing


when a cute or seemingly innocuous behavior leads to something
more sinister. They praise and encourage their Golden for barking
at the mail carrier or let puppies chew on their fingers. Then, they
find it not so cute when their grown-up Golden is barking at every-
thing or nipping them.
If you see yourself in any of these scenarios, it’s time to take
action. If you’re the standoffish owner, it’s time to bring your
Golden back into your life now. Move his crate into your bedroom
and start training. If you’re the owner who has spoiled your dog
rotten, it’s time to set limits and take control of your relationship.
And if you’re the owner who let your Golden get away with behav-
iors as a puppy, it’s time to stop those behaviors now.

When a Behavior Appears Out of Nowhere


(or Even If It Doesn’t)
Before you start behavior modification, it’s time to take a step back
and take your Golden to the veterinarian. This is especially true if a
behavior starts without warning. Often dogs exhibit what you might
consider bad behavior when they’re reacting to a health problem.
A dog who suddenly forgets he’s housetrained may actually have a
urinary tract infection, for example.
Even if the behavior has been going on a while, you still should
have a vet examine your Golden. For example, I had a dog who was
aggressive toward other female dogs. Later, we learned that she had
hip dysplasia, a painful condition that made her react with aggres-
sion. She showed no outward sign of her condition at all except her
aggression.
When you visit the vet, tell him what behaviors you’re seeing
and ask whether there could be an underlying medical condition.
Your vet should be happy to examine your Golden. Even if he
Chapter 10: Recalcitrant Retrievers 143

pronounces your Golden healthy, you should always keep the possi-
bility of a health problem in mind in case the vet missed something
unusual or undetectable without extensive tests.
Here is a partial list of behavior problems and possible medical
causes:
≠ Growling or snapping when touched—pain in that part of the
body, abscess, tooth problems, arthritis, hip dysplasia, paneos-
teitis, or other joint problems.
≠ Growling when approaching the food bowl or stealing food
from the counter—ravenously hungry from a medical condi-
tion.
≠ Aggression toward people or dogs—low thyroid, other hor-
mone imbalance, pain, or neurological problem.
≠ Marking or urinating on the floor—urinary tract infection,
kidney problems, or bladder problems.
≠ Chewing inappropriate items or destructive behavior—tooth
problems or teething.

Even if your veterinarian rules out medical problems with a


certain behavior, now is the time to discuss spaying or neutering
your Golden, if you haven’t done so yet.
Although there has been much debate on whether spaying
reduces aggression in female dogs, it’s been my experience that spay-
ing and neutering helps reduce aggression and other challenging
behaviors in both sexes. Female dogs that I’ve spayed for behavior
problems have been overall less aggressive than when they were
intact, suggesting perhaps a hormonal imbalance.
But spaying and neutering isn’t a substitute for training; it is a
tool in your training arsenal. It will help reduce unwanted behavior.
144 Part 3: Dog Training 101

Chewing and Other Destructive Behavior


Dogs are naturally destructive critters. If your Golden is a puppy
and is teething, this is normal behavior. You will have to provide
acceptable items for him to chew on and crate him when you can’t
watch him. If he is an older adult, have your vet look into possible
dental problems, such as puppy teeth that haven’t come out or adult
teeth that haven’t grown in properly.
After you’ve determined that the problem isn’t medical, you
need to analyze when your Golden is chewing on inappropriate
items or being destructive. Is it when you’re not home or when
you’re home and you can’t watch him? Is it a particular item your
Golden is interested in, or does he choose objects at random?
If your Golden isn’t crate trained, or if you don’t keep him in a
crate, start now. The crate will keep your Golden from destroying
your house. Give him an appropriate chew item while you’re home
but unable to watch him every second.
Second, try tying your Golden to you. Get a long leash (10 feet
or so) and hook one end to his collar. Tie the other end to your belt
or belt loop while your Golden is in the house. Now, your Golden
has to go where you go and has to focus on you. He can’t run off
and chew something without you seeing it. This training technique
accomplishes two things. First, it helps prevent destructive behavior.
Second, it helps bond your Golden to you. This method is called
by several names—umbilical cording and tying are two—but the
method is the same.
This bonding technique will help break the cycle of chewing,
but it takes a while. When you catch your Golden chewing some-
thing inappropriate, offer an appropriate item as a trade, such as a
chew toy or rawhide.
Chapter 10: Recalcitrant Retrievers 145

House-Soiling
House-soiling can occur for a variety of reasons, some of which are
medical in nature; others are training issues; and still others are
dominance issues. If your Golden has been housetrained for some
time (no accidents in three months or more) and then starts house-
soiling, suspect a medical cause. Bring him to the vet for a thorough
examination.
If your Golden has accidents where he pees in large quantities or
poops, no medical reason can be detected, and he is inconsistent in
his housetraining (that is, he has not been reliable in three months),
you can safely assume that you have to work on his housetraining
some more. Sometimes you may also have to work on your Golden’s
housetraining after a medical problem. Remember that you can’t
expect a dog to hold it for more than nine hours (and no more than
four hours for a puppy).

Golden Glimmers
Sometimes a medical problem can cause a behavioral problem long
after the medical problem has been fixed. For example, if your
Golden has been house-soiling because of a medical condition, he
might continue to house-soil after the problem has cleared up be-
cause he’s used to doing it. In this case, you must correct the medi-
cal problem and then retrain your Golden.

The third type of house-soiling usually is associated with mark-


ing, and yes, female dogs do this too. If your Golden is primarily
urinating in prominent places and is leaving a small to medium
amount here or there, you can suspect he’s dominance marking. At
this stage, you need to reinforce your role as a benevolent leader and
start making yourself into a person your Golden will respect. If your
Golden constantly sneaks off into another room to “do his duty,”
try tying him to you. This will stop the shenanigans immediately
because he can no longer piddle or poop behind your back.
146 Part 3: Dog Training 101

Don’t Tread on Me! Jumping Up


Your Golden loves to jump up because she is excited or happy to
see you. Unfortunately, this isn’t something you want to happen
when you have your good clothes on or when she might knock
over a child. So you must never encourage jumping up.
Instead of giving your Golden a harsh correction, try putting her
in a Sit and then crouching down to pet her. Don’t pet her unless
she is in a Sit position. She’ll soon learn that to be petted, she must
Sit nicely.
If she jumps up or climbs on you, sometimes bringing your knee
up so that she bounces against it, combined with a quick “Off!”
command, works. But many dogs just bounce off and try it again.
The Sit command is more effective.

Trench Warfare—Digging
Digging is a tough habit to break. You can try filling the holes with
your Golden’s poop and cover them with dirt, but this will only keep
your Golden from digging in that spot again. You will then have to
watch your Golden to prevent further digging.
An effective way to interrupt this behavior is to take several pop
cans and put 5 to 10 pennies in them, and then tape them closed so
that they rattle when you shake them. When you catch your Golden
digging, throw a can toward him (don’t hit him!), close enough to
startle him. Say “No dig!” This should surprise him enough to stop
digging.
A few pop cans and your Golden should get the idea. How-
ever, this won’t work if you leave your Golden outside all day while
you’re gone. If you have an area in your yard that can be your
Golden’s kennel run, where you don’t mind a hole or two, that may
be a better solution than the pop can method.
Chapter 10: Recalcitrant Retrievers 147

Retriever Rewards
The spray bottle method is a little more unpleasant than the
pennies-in-a-pop-can method. Fill a squirt bottle with clean
water (you can also use one of those big soaker water guns). When
you catch your Golden barking, squirt him with the water. Most dogs,
even water-loving Retrievers, don’t like getting squirted and soon stop.

Barking up the Wrong Tree—


Excessive Barking
Goldens that bark too much are often encouraged from the start.
They see a stranger walking down the street and bark. The stranger’s
reaction (walking away)—or perhaps your reaction if you praised
him—is enough to reinforce the behavior. Soon, your Golden is idiot
barking, that is, barking at just about anything and everything.
If your Golden is barking and keeping the neighbors up at night,
why are you leaving him outside? He’s better off indoors in his own
crate by your bed than out disturbing the neighbors. Same for the
dog who sits in his outside kennel while his owners are gone to work
or school.
If your Golden is still noisy—indoors while you’re gone, or
outside while you’re home—the next step is to use the pennies-in-
a-pop-can or spray bottle
method (if you are home to No Biscuit!
catch him in the act). You can In extreme circum-
also try a citronella bark collar. stances, you may be forced into
making a choice between quiet-
A citronella bark collar is ing your Golden or losing him. If
an alternative to a standard bark this is the case, consult with an
collar. When the dog barks, the animal behaviorist or your veteri-
narian for possible solutions.
collar sprays a fine mist of cit-
ronella on the dog’s chin. Most
148 Part 3: Dog Training 101

dogs dislike the smell and quickly learn to be quiet. However, some
dogs are clever enough to turn their head to avoid the mist, or will
quickly bark several times to empty the canister.
In most cases, barking is a way of expressing boredom. It’s
become a habit, and after started it’s hard to stop. So to stop your
Golden barking, in addition to the methods described previously,
keep him inside at night and during the day when you’re not at home
and spend extra time with him exercising, training, and playing.

It’s Houdini!
Do you constantly have to retrieve your retriever? Most escape-
artist dogs start out by being clever and bored. Combine this with
ineffective barriers, and you’ve got the makings of a Houdini.
Your Golden will continue to break out as long as you continue
to put up ineffective barriers. The trick is to set up a good barrier
the first time after he tries to escape. If your Golden escapes from
the backyard constantly, you may have to build a special dig-proof,
jump-proof, climb-proof kennel and keep your Golden inside in an
escape-proof crate when you are not at home.
Give your Golden something to do during those long hours
alone. A thick marrow bone filled with peanut butter is a fun treat for
your Golden and will give him hours of tasty enjoyment. Giving him
plenty of fun toys and making a small obstacle course—something to
climb in and on—will help relieve some of the boredom.

Raiding Parties
Temptations abound on counters within nose reach. If your Golden is
used to carrying off loot like a Viking raiding party, it’s time to stop
this behavior.
Keep all food out of your Golden’s reach. This may require that
you install child latches on your cabinets and hide your dinner in the
oven or microwave while you leave it unattended.
Chapter 10: Recalcitrant Retrievers 149

Other temptations besides food are within reach. Trash is a big


one. Hide the trash under the kitchen sink or in the bathroom
where your Golden can’t get to it. If your Golden is particularly
adept at trying to get at items on the stove, either crate him or use
static mats. These are low-shock mats that give a jolt similar to static
electricity. (Yes, I’ve touched one. They’re unpleasant, but harmless.)
Most dogs avoid these mats after one or two encounters. After that,
you can leave the mat turned off or use a “dummy” mat. These mats
are far less painful than if your Golden burns himself trying to steal
food off the stove.

Aggression
Aggression is a serious problem. If your Golden has already bitten
someone or if you’re afraid of your Golden, seek professional help
immediately. A dog like this is a liability.
By aggression, I’m not talking about the occasional growl or
play that suddenly turns into a fight. Although those are reasons
for concern, I’m talking about a dog who attacks people or animals
repeatedly and shows no sign of backing down.
Some aggression has medical roots. Pain, seizures, neurological
disorders, and other medical conditions can cause aggression in a
dog. A trip to the vet is in order.
Several types of aggression may be displayed: dominance, fear,
pain, frustration, sexual, guarding, prey, and idiopathic.
≠ Dominance aggression occurs when the dog is trying to assert
his status over another dog or a human. This may be very
aggressive behavior, and the dog may not back down.
≠ Fear aggression occurs when the dog feels it has been put in
a dangerous situation. The dog bites out of fear to get away
from the situation. It’s usually a quick snap or a series of snaps
followed by the dog retreating.
150 Part 3: Dog Training 101

≠ Pain aggression is much like fear aggression, but the dog is in


pain and wants the pain to stop. Again, this is usually a few
quick snaps, and the dog retreats.
≠ Frustration or redirected aggression occurs when the dog can’t
get at something he wants so he takes his frustration out on
a nearby person or dog. It’s usually a few quick snaps. If his
frustration is redirected, it can take the form of any type of
aggression.
≠ Sexual aggression has to do with competition for a mate. The
dog won’t pursue other dogs after he has driven them off.
≠ Guarding is similar to dominance aggression, but the dog is try-
ing to keep an item away from a potential contender. Again, this
is a few quick bites. The dog is unlikely to pursue the contender
when he backs down.
≠ Prey aggression is where the dog looks at the person or animal
as prey and pursues it to kill it. All dogs have some form of prey
drive—some more developed than others. In a full prey drive,
the dog will attack aggressively and won’t stop until he is met
with enough force to deter him.
≠ Idiopathic aggression occurs
Golden Glimmers due to some type of seizure.
Not all aggression is bad. It appears to have no trigger
Humans have harnessed some involved, and the dog can go
aggression, such as the prey from being friendly to an
drive, into useful actions.
Herding, for example, is a
attack and then back to being
diminished prey drive in which friendly. These cases are rare,
the dog exhibits all of the but no amount of training can
characteristics of a prey drive stop it because the cause is
without the attack or bite at the medical. Consult a veterinarian
end.
if you have a young Golden
puppy that shows aggression
or a dog that attacks randomly.
Chapter 10: Recalcitrant Retrievers 151

A dog may exhibit more than one type of aggression at a time.


For example, he may show dominance aggression with guarding
aggression or prey drive with dominance aggression.
It helps to understand what type of aggression you’re dealing
with. You’ll be handling different types of aggression differently.
Fear aggression, for example, requires very different handling than
dominance aggression.
The key to stopping aggression is preventing it in the first place.
Positive socialization will go a long way toward eliminating fear in
your Golden. Neutering and spaying will help with dominance and
sexual aggression. Teaching your puppy to trade for something tasty
will help prevent guarding behavior over the food bowl.
Keeping your Golden away from aggressive dogs will help keep
him from learning aggressive behavior toward other dogs. Some
aggressive behavior is learned. Let’s say an aggressive dog attacks
your Golden. Your Golden may be fearful that he might be attacked
again the next time he sees another dog and may growl to ward off
the attack. The other dog may growl (because he’s challenged), thus
confirming the aggressive behavior.

Don’t Leave Me Alone!—Separation Anxiety


If your Golden destroys or chews things while you’re not home
or whines and cries when he’s left alone, he may be suffering from
separation anxiety.
You may unknowingly be causing separation anxiety in your
Golden. Do you make a big production out of leaving and arriving?
Do you act as though you are never coming back? Stop the tearful,
Oscar-winning performance! Make your exits and arrivals as low key
as possible.
Crating your Golden will help with the overall destruction. You
may also have to spend a few days desensitizing your Golden to your
152 Part 3: Dog Training 101

comings and goings by taking short trips out of the house and then
returning.
Some dog owners like to leave the radio or television on for
background noise. If you try this, choose stations with soothing
music or calm voices. Talk radio will often have argumentative
chatter that will only heighten your Golden’s anxiety.
I have CDs that are specially recorded for pets. I honestly don’t
know whether they work or not, but I’ve seen dogs relax to Bach
and other Baroque works. A friend of mine who is a vet recommends
that clients read a boring book into a tape recorder and play the tape
while they’re gone. Sometimes hearing their owner’s voice is all that’s
needed to calm a dog’s fears.
If your Golden continues to display separation anxiety, your vet
can prescribe medications to help.

Fear of Thunder and Other Loud Noises


Some dogs suffer from fear of thunder or other loud noises. This
fear seems to get worse with age, and the dog doesn’t get over it.
You might be making his fear worse if you act frightened or
nervous when a storm is brewing. Coddling your Golden will only
reinforce the shaking and trembling.
If your Golden is terrified of thunder and lightning, keep him
inside—preferably in a crate—during thunderstorms. Often thunder-
storms have many signs—ozone smell, dimmer light, and other signs
we can’t pick up on—so they’re difficult to desensitize a dog to.
Dogs that are afraid of thunder are likely to try to escape and
may hurt themselves in their panic. Dogs have been known to jump
out closed second-story windows or over fences in sheer panic. If
your Golden continues to become panicked or fearful even when
crated, consider talking to your vet or a behaviorist. Your vet may
Chapter 10: Recalcitrant Retrievers 153

be able to prescribe medication that will help calm your Golden


during thunderstorms.
Thunderstorms are not the only time for loud noises, however.
Fourth of July, New Year’s Eve, and even Halloween can be fright-
ening to your Golden. Take extra precautions to give him a safe and
secure place during these noisy times.

The Least You Need to Know


≠ Bad behavior doesn’t change to good behavior overnight. No
quick fixes or magic bullets exist to change your Golden’s bad
behavior.
≠ You can prevent your Golden from misbehaving, thereby
breaking the cycle that continues to reinforce the bad behavior,
by crating him or taking away the ability to perform the bad
behavior.
≠ Enforce all commands and insist on maintaining your status
as owner.
≠ Neuter or spay your Golden.
≠ Houdini dogs become escape artists because their owners put
up inferior barriers from which the dog can escape.
≠ Aggression comes in various types. If your Golden shows
aggression toward people, seek professional help.
≠ Your vet can help you with severe cases of separation anxiety
and fear of thunderstorms.
Part

4 In Sickness
and in Health
No matter how hard you try to care for your Golden Retriever, he
may still get sick. However, you can do plenty of things to keep him
healthy. A good diet with the right nutrition followed by good pre-
ventive care is vital for a healthy and long life.
In Part 4, we examine health issues. You learn about the com-
mon illnesses and injuries Goldens get, as well as congenital and
hereditary problems they face due to their popularity, and what to
do in case of emergency. You’ll learn how to choose the right vet for
you and your Golden Retriever. You’ll also learn how to figure out
whether there’s a problem with your Golden’s health and whether
it’s something you can fix or whether it’s time to visit the vet.
11
Chapter

Food for Thought: Nutrition


In This Chapter
≠ What is good nutrition for your Golden?
≠ Are all types of dog foods the same?
≠ Should you make your Golden’s food?
≠ Fad diets: healthy or hazardous?
≠ What about treats?
≠ What should you feed the overweight Golden?

Nutrition is a hot topic with pet owners. Recently pet owners have
been bombarded with fad diets, raw diets, cooked diets, bone diets, and
natural diets. Should you feed your Golden a commercial dog food, or is
that tantamount to abuse?
In this chapter, you’ll learn about dog foods, whether you should
feed dog foods at all, and what meat by-products really are. You’ll learn
how to spot a good premium brand of dog food and what will work best
for your Golden, depending on his age and activity level. Last, we’ll talk
about pudgy pooches and why you need to keep your Golden trim.
158 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

What to Feed Your Golden Retriever


Feeding a dog used to be no big deal. You went to the store, picked
up a bag of Canine Crunchies, and poured it in a bowl. What could
be simpler? Nowadays, you’ve probably heard from someone, some-
where (probably the Internet) that you’ll kill your dog with cancer,
allergies, autoimmune diseases, and who knows what else if you feed
anything that comes out of a bag.
But is this right? Will you really kill your Golden if you feed
him commercial food? Is the food at the grocery store okay for him?
And what about those bones?
First, be aware that good nutrition for dogs isn’t as easy as toss-
ing him a bone with meat on it. Nor is it just giving a bit of ham-
burger, cooked rice, and raw veggies. Dogs need a specific amount
of protein and fat and a special balance of nutrients to live. You can
cause a serious imbalance by feed-
ing the wrong foods.
Retriever Rewards
Feed your Golden The American Association of
regularly scheduled Feed Control Officials (AAFCO)
measured meals instead of free has determined the minimum
feeding. One benefit to feeding nutrition a dog needs to be healthy.
meals is that you’ll see right
To have a complete and balanced
away whether your Golden is
sick. It isn’t okay for your diet, dog food with an AAFCO
Golden to skip a meal when he statement must meet or exceed the
is normally a good eater. It may standards set forth by AAFCO.
be a sign of illness. Otherwise, the diet can’t be labeled
as complete and balanced.
There are dog foods and treats that aren’t complete and bal-
anced out there, so you must always look for the AAFCO statement
on the label. Even then, this guarantee is only that the food meets
the minimums, so that your Golden won’t have a serious health
problem associated with the food’s nutrition; an AAFCO statement
doesn’t guarantee the quality of the ingredients.
Chapter 11: Food for Thought: Nutrition 159

© Janna Hughes
Be sure to provide plenty of fresh water. This is Kyra.

The good news is that there are commercial foods you can buy
that are good for your Golden. Dog food manufacturers have liter-
ally spent millions of dollars in research to determine the optimum
nutrition for your dog. The dog foods we have today are better than
dog foods 20, 10, or even 5 years ago.
The bad news is that there is still a lot of junk food out there.
This food tends to be cheap and has fillers, sugar, and artificial col-
ors. This food is what you’d normally see priced at a deep discount
when compared to other dog food. This dog food may have an
attractive price but the digestibility of the nutrients is lower when
compared to premium food.
That means you must feed more
Golden Glossary
of a cheaper food to obtain the
Digestibility The per-
same amount of nutrition that a centage of nutrients in a
premium food contains. In other dog food that the dog can use
words, your Golden may have to after it is digested.
eat twice as much or more of a
160 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

cheap dog food as he would a premium brand. The cheaper brand


ends up as more poop in your yard instead of good nutrition for
your Golden.
So bargain brands aren’t much of a bargain. Sure, you save $10
to $20 on a bag of food, but instead of feeding two or three cups,
you have to feed five to seven. That’s quite a difference! Are you
really saving money on that dog food now?
I used to define the bargain brands as anything you can buy at a
grocery store, but that’s not true anymore. Some grocery store
chains carry some decent food. So how do you know what is a pre-
mium dog food?
One way is to look at the label. The ingredients in a dog food
are listed in descending order of total weight, with the most abun-
dant ingredient listed first. The first ingredient should be a protein
source and should be an animal protein (meat, poultry, fish, eggs, or
dairy). The next ingredient may be a carbohydrate source such as
corn, rice, or wheat, but be careful! If there are several carbohydrate
sources in a row, those can actually outweigh the protein source, and
the food may be more grain than meat.

Golden Glimmers
The words “premium” and “super premium” are tough to define
when it comes to dog food—mostly because the Food and Drug
Administration (FDA) and AAFCO have no definition concerning pre-
mium food. In fact, “premium” and “super premium” are marketing
words and may not fit the dog food itself.
When I talk about a premium dog food, I mean a food that has
quality ingredients, including a highly digestible protein source, and
has a high digestibility (greater than 80 percent is usable by the
dog). To determine whether the dog food is truly premium, you must
look at the ingredient list and contact the dog food company to find
out what the digestibility is. Premium dog foods will have protein
sources derived from animal products (such as meat, poultry, or fish)
as their first ingredients.
Chapter 11: Food for Thought: Nutrition 161

The second way is to contact the manufacturer directly. Most


manufacturers have toll-free numbers on their packaging for ques-
tions, and many have Internet sites. You can find out through the
manufacturer what the digestibility of the dog food is. (If it’s greater
than 80 percent, you can assume it’s a premium dog food.)
When choosing a dog food, you should look for quality, avail-
ability, and palatability. We’ve discussed quality; now look at the
availability. I always recommend that you purchase a recognizable
brand or one you can get readily. If the local pet boutique is closed,
you want to be able to get the food somewhere else if you run out.
Palatability is very important. All that good nutrition is worth-
less if your Golden doesn’t eat it. So find something he likes to eat
and stick with it.
Should you feed just one brand of food or should you mix them?
I used to tell people to pick one brand of dog food and stay with it.
However, some vets and nutritionists might dispute me here and
recommend that you choose a few pet foods and rotate them. The
thinking is that if there’s something missing in one food, it will be
balanced out by other foods. But there are some fallacies to this line
of thought:
≠ The dog food is either complete and balanced or it isn’t. If you
believe that the feeding trials, the research, and the analysis
shows that the food is complete, then your dog doesn’t need
anything else.
≠ Research has shown that dogs need a minimum of six weeks or
more on the same dog food before you can see any benefit
from the food. Constantly rotating pet foods will provide nutri-
tion, but there’s really no way to tell what is helping and what
isn’t.
≠ Changing foods frequently can cause gastric upsets, including
diarrhea. In some cases, it can cause bloat, a life-threatening
condition.
162 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

If you decide to rotate foods, be sure to mix the food or gradually


change one food over to another. I recommend starting with 10 per-
cent of the new food and 90 percent of the old food the first day.
Then, each day increase the new food and decrease the old food, each
by 10 percent, until you’re feeding 100 percent of the new food.

Retriever Rewards
Follow the guidelines set forth on the dog food’s label for
feeding, then adjust to suit your individual dog. Most dog
foods tend to recommend more than the dog actually needs.
Most dog food labels recommend a daily ration. If your Golden
puppy is under four months old, feed him the daily ration split into
thirds, feeding three times a day. Otherwise, feed him half the ration
twice a day.

Canned, Dry, Frozen, or Semi-Moist?


Dog food comes in a variety of forms—the most common are dry and
canned. Most owners like to use dry dog food and mix in one of the
other foods to make the dry food more palatable.
Pound for pound, dry dog food or kibble is the most cost-effective
dog food. You have more choices in dry dog food. Use these guide-
lines in selecting a dry dog food for your Golden Retriever:
≠ If your Golden is under 12 months old, you should still be feed-
ing a premium puppy food. Most puppy foods have a 28 percent
protein/17 percent fat by weight content or more.
≠ If your Golden is an active adult, you should feed a premium
active adult food that has approximately a 25 percent protein/15
percent fat by weight content.
≠ If your Golden is overweight or inactive, you should feed a
maintenance or “Lite” version of the premium adult food.
Chapter 11: Food for Thought: Nutrition 163

≠ If your Golden works (field trials or other hard work), feed him
a premium performance dog food that has approximately a 30
percent protein/20 percent fat by weight content.
≠ If your Golden is a senior (over 8 years), feed him a dog food
that maintains his weight and energy level. Don’t switch him to
a senior type dog food unless he is gaining weight or has some
underlying health problem.

You may want to go with canned, semi-moist, or frozen food, or


compressed meat rolls:
≠ Canned dog food—Canned dog food is very palatable, but can
be expensive because you pay for the water that goes into
canned food. Many Golden owners like to add a can to their
dog’s dry food as a treat.
≠ Semi-moist food—Semi-moist food is chock full of colors,
preservatives, and sugar. Expensive. Use sparingly or as treats.
≠ Frozen food—Usually no
No Biscuit!
preservatives, must be kept
You may be won-
frozen to avoid bacterial dering whether it’s okay to
growth or spoilage. feed your Golden table scraps
Expensive—you’re paying instead of dog food. Table
both for water weight and scraps don’t have the nutrition
a dog needs. Most table scraps
freezer storage.
are heavy on carbohydrates, fat,
≠ Compressed meat rolls— and salt and low on nutrition.
Highly palatable and expen-
sive. Needs to be refrigerated
once opened.

Nutrition Nuggets
Your Golden gets his energy from protein, fat, and carbohydrates in
his food. Each of these nutrients is important for a healthy dog.
Let’s take a look at each of them.
164 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

Protein
Protein is an essential nutrient. It provides the building blocks for
muscles, bone, organs, and connective tissue at 4 calories per gram.
It is the main component of enzymes, hormones, and antibodies. It
helps with muscle repair, builds and maintains plasma volume and
red blood cells, and increases mitochondrial volume (energy burn-
ers) in working dogs.
The type of protein you feed your dog is important. Dogs are
carnivores and require complete proteins that are difficult to get
from vegetable sources. Good sources of protein include meat
(chicken and poultry included), meat meal, meat by-products, and
meat by-product meals.
The first ingredient in the dog
Golden Glimmers
food you buy should be the pro-
Don’t turn up your nose at tein source, whether it is chicken,
feeding a dog food with by-
by-products, or another meat.
products in it. You might think
that chowing down on lungs, Avoid dog foods with soy or meat
hearts, intestines, and kidneys and bone meal as the first protein
is disgusting, but your Golden source; both soy and bone meal
will love it. What’s more, high- are not as high quality and gener-
quality by-products are a better
ally not as digestible as meat or
by-products.

Fat
Fat is an energy-dense nutrient at 9 calories per gram. High-quality
fat sources include animal fat. Dogs and cats use fats that are com-
monly referred to as Omega-6 long-chained fatty acids. They are
usually a mixture of saturated (solid) and unsaturated (liquid) fats.
Unsaturated fat tends to turn rancid quicker. Typical fat sources
include beef, poultry, and animal fat, which may be a mixture of
pork, beef, lamb, and horse fat. Animal fats tend to be better than
vegetable fats in providing energy.
Chapter 11: Food for Thought: Nutrition 165

Carbohydrates
Carbohydrates provide 4 calories per gram of energy. Carbohydrates
are useful for fiber and extra energy in your Golden’s diet. In work-
ing dogs, a carbohydrate snack can help refuel a dog’s cells after sus-
tained exercise.
Most dogs benefit from cooked grains that are easier to digest.
Carbohydrates in the form of fiber help keep the colon healthy and
aid in water absorption.

No Biscuit!
Should your Golden be a vegetarian? The answer is no.
Although dogs can and do subsist on vegetarian diets, dogs are designed
to eat meat, not grains. Most vegetarian diets are based on soy protein.
Soy can cause gas and bloating in dogs that are allergic to it. If you want
to be a vegetarian, that’s fine. But feed your dog meat-based dog food.

Home Cooking—Raw Food Diets


I’m going to address the raw food diets candidly here, because I
have fed my dogs both commercial and raw foods. When I’ve fed
raw foods, it was done after consulting professional nutritionists,
which most feeders of raw diets can’t claim. I always had to add vita-
mins and minerals and almost always added some dog food to the
raw diet. My dogs did well enough on it. My dogs do better on
commercial dog food.
However, there are those who argue vehemently for raw food
diets.

Proponents’ Statements
Most people who feed raw diets cite a number of reasons why you
shouldn’t feed a commercial diet. Most of the reasons sound good,
166 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

but there a number of fallacies associated with their statements. Let’s


look at a few.
≠ “I prefer to feed an all-natural diet free of preservatives and
chemicals.” This is a tough thing to do. Even people who eat
vegan diets have trouble finding foods without preservatives.
The main culprit is fat—which turns rancid quickly when
exposed to air. Animal fats—a preferred source of energy—are
almost always preserved with BHT, BHA, or some other pre-
servative. Even if you manage to eliminate the preservatives,
your pet is still exposed to chemicals due to antibiotics and
other medications in the food animals, unless you choose com-
pletely organic meats (and even then, there are chemicals in the
environment).
≠ “I know what ingredients I’m giving my dog.” That’s true, but
do you know the amounts of protein, fats, vitamins, and miner-
als you’re feeding him, too?
≠ “Raw bones are safe for dogs to eat.” Actually, they’re not.
Veterinarians have operated on dogs who have eaten raw bones
to remove blockages and fix perforated intestines. Any bone
that your Golden can swallow whole can cause a problem.
≠ “Raw foods mimic what dogs eat in the wild.” Actually, they
don’t. When wolves kill their prey, they eat the stomach con-
tents of a ruminant (partially digested plants), the skin and hair,
the organ meats including the liver, lungs, stomach, intestines,
spleen, heart, connecting tissue, and then go for the muscle
meat and bones. This doesn’t equal green beans, lettuce, and a
chicken wing! Wolves also don’t live long in the wild—most
barely make it past eight years.
≠ “Dogs’ intestines can handle bacteria.” Dogs seem to be more
resistant to nasty bacteria, but that means that they’re carrying
that bacteria around and can give it to you. Younger and older
dogs tend to be more susceptible to these bacteria and can die
from infections.
Chapter 11: Food for Thought: Nutrition 167

≠ “I know how to feed my kids—why can’t I formulate a dog


food?” Feeding kids and feeding dogs are two different animals.
Do you feed your kids vitamin-fortified cereal? Do they drink
milk (enriched with vitamin D)? Do you use iodized salt? Do
you take vitamins or have your kids take vitamins? A lot of the
work has been done for you when it comes to proper nutrition
for your family. Dogs require special nutrition, too.
≠ “The ingredients I use are better and fresher than what’s in dog
food.” Maybe. But fresh food without preservatives tends to
spoil faster. You must be careful about E. coli, Campylobacter,
and Salmonella poisoning. If you cook the food, you can
destroy vital nutrients.
≠ “My dog can’t get the nutrition he needs from commercial
dog food.” Unless your Golden is sick and needs a special
diet (and many veterinary diets are available), or if he is an
endurance working dog (such as a sled dog), your Golden
will get all the nutrition he needs from a premium or super-
premium dog food.
≠ “Feeding raw foods will make my dog healthier.” Maybe. Or
they could make him sick. Some foods, such as onions, grapes,
and raw salmon, shouldn’t be fed to your Golden under any
circumstance. Raw salmon from the Northwest may contain a
fluke that can be poisonous to your Golden, onions can cause
anemia, and grapes and raisins can cause renal failure. Raw
game meat can contain tularemia, trichinosis, and tapeworms.
There is also the potential for food poisoning due to Campylo-
bacter, Salmonella and E. coli.

The Difficulties of Balancing Nutrients


AAFCO has set forth the minimum guidelines for dog foods. Unless
you are a veterinary nutritionist, how close do you think you can
come to balancing nutrients? For example, calcium and phosphorus
168 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

require a special ratio of about 1.5 to 1. If phosphorus exceeds that


ratio (as in a diet with too much meat), the dog’s body will pull cal-
cium from the bones, making them brittle.
If you’re set on feeding your Golden a raw food diet or a home-
cooked diet, contact a veterinary college and speak with a nutrition-
ist there. Most will be able to recommend and analyze diets for
deficiencies.

Performance Diets—Feeding the


Canine Athlete
If your Golden Retriever works hard, such as in field trials, hunting,
agility, or other work, he should be on a super-premium perform-
ance blend of dog food. You must be careful when feeding perform-
ance foods, however, because the tendency is to feed too much,
making your Golden fat.
More protein and fat is necessary for hard-working dogs to
maintain muscle mass and keep their weight. When you choose a
high-performance dog food, find one that is highly digestible.
Otherwise, you may see stress diarrhea or even bloody diarrhea.
Some cheaper brands of dog food have rough-cut grains that can
irritate your Golden’s bowels and cause bleeding. If you see blood in
your dog’s stool, have your vet check your Golden to rule out other
causes. If your Golden is in good shape, try mixing water with his
food, changing dog foods, or adding canned dog food to his diet to
help cushion the food as it passes through his intestines.

Fad Diets
The term “fad diets” conjures up ads that promise you’ll lose 50
pounds in three days—and they’re just about as healthy! Avoid feed-
ing your Golden diets that have strange or unusual ingredients.
Diets that aren’t formulated to meet or surpass AAFCO guidelines
Chapter 11: Food for Thought: Nutrition 169

aren’t complete and balanced and may cause severe nutritional defi-
ciencies.

Junk Food—Between-Meal Snacks


Treats and in-between meal snacks are what Goldens live for, but
you should limit them to no more than 10 percent of your Golden’s
total calories. This includes the ice cream, training treats, pizza, and
table scraps.
I don’t recommend feeding table scraps, because they can turn
your Golden into a picky eater. But if you do feed scraps, keep them
small in portion and avoid high-fat, high-sugar, high-carbohydrate,
and high-salt foods.

Retriever Rewards
To teach good eating habits, put down your Golden’s bowl
with his food and set a timer for 10 minutes. At the end of
10 minutes, pick up his food bowl, even if he hasn’t touched it, and
don’t give him his food until his next scheduled meal. After a few
rounds of this, your Golden will learn that feeding time means it’s time
to eat.

Poisonous Temptations—Chocolate and


Other Unsafe Foods
Some foods are poisonous to your Golden. These include:
≠ Alcohol—even a small amount can cause alcohol poisoning. A
drunk Golden is not funny and a small amount can be toxic.
≠ Chocolate—contains theobromine, a substance that is poison-
ous to dogs. Dark or bittersweet chocolate is more poisonous
than milk chocolate.
170 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

≠ Grapes and raisins—these can cause renal failure in dogs.


≠ Onions—may cause anemia.
≠ Raw salmon from the Northwest—contains a parasite that can
kill your Golden.
≠ Coffee—can also be poisonous to dogs.

Obesity
Obesity is a common problem among Golden Retrievers. It comes
from owners who are heavy-handed with the treats and the dog food
measuring cup and who don’t exercise their Goldens regularly.
Unfortunately, most people’s Goldens are a bit chunky. The
problem with obesity is that it can lead to health problems in your
Golden, just as it can in humans. You can help extend your Golden’s
life by keeping him trim and fit.

Determining Whether Your Golden Is Fit or Fat


Weight isn’t a good indicator of fitness, as different Goldens have
different builds. Instead, you should examine your Golden to deter-
mine his fitness. You should be able to put your thumbs on your
Golden’s spine and feel his ribs. If you can’t feel your Golden’s ribs
or can barely feel them under a thick layer of padding, your Golden
Retriever is too fat. If you can see your Golden’s ribs and pelvic
bones, he is too thin.

Diet Isn’t a Four-Letter Word


If your Golden needs to shed a few pounds, talk with your vet about
putting him on a diet and exercise program. Most vets are able to
prescribe a diet food that will help shed the pounds. You can also try
the maintenance or “lite” version of your Golden’s food.
Chapter 11: Food for Thought: Nutrition 171

If your Golden is the quintessential couch potato, getting him


off the couch and into an exercise regimen will help shave off
unwanted pounds. If you and your Golden are exercising to shed
weight, remember the following rules:
≠ Start slow—your Golden is probably out of shape and needs to
build up to rigorous exercise.
≠ Choose an activity you both can do that’s fun. Playing fetch,
jogging, and dog sports are possible activities.
≠ Be careful when exercising when it’s hot. Overweight dogs tend
to overheat faster.

The Least You Need to Know


≠ Bargain brand dog foods tend to be no bargain because they
have more fillers and are less digestible than premium brands.
≠ Feed your adult Golden twice a day after he reaches four
months. When he is younger than four months, he should be
fed three times a day.
≠ Use the feeding guidelines on the dog food label and adjust
accordingly. Most dog food manufacturers recommend larger
portions than your Golden needs.
≠ Feed your Golden a dog food that meets or exceeds AAFCO
standards.
≠ Homemade diets can be tricky to balance and may cause mal-
nutrition. Some raw diets may contain Salmonella and E. coli.
≠ Limit snacks and treats to no more than 10 percent of your
Golden’s total diet.
≠ Your Golden is obese if you can’t feel his ribs or can barely feel
them under a layer of fat. Contact your vet for recommenda-
tions regarding a weight-loss and exercise program.
Chapter

12
Choosing a Veterinarian
In This Chapter
≠ All veterinarians are not the same
≠ How to find the best dog doc for you and your Golden
≠ Bringing your Golden to the vet for the first time
≠ Vaccinations

A good vet is worth his weight in gold. Yes, there are many
competent vets are out there, but how do you figure out whether
this vet or that vet is right for you and your Golden?
Just like medical doctors, there are many types of vets, and not
all offer the same services. It’s up to you to determine what you’re
looking for. In this chapter, I discuss veterinarians, the types of prac-
tices and services they offer, and how to find a good one. I’ll tell you
a little about what to expect when you bring your Golden in the
first time, as well.
I’ll also discuss vaccinations—how they work and what vaccina-
tions you should consider. Not all vaccinations are appropriate in all
situations.
174 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

Dog Doctors
The most important person in your Golden’s life (after you) should
be his veterinarian. It only makes sense that you find the right vet
for your Golden. Your Golden’s vet can offer guidance on how to
care for your Golden and what to do when he’s sick.
When you look for a vet, he or she should be compatible with
you. This may sound strange, but whether you get along with your
vet will affect whether you’re willing to follow his or her directions.
Because you have a lot of vets to choose from, you can afford to
be picky. Although most vets offer similar services, not all offer the
same services. For example, some vets offer mobile services (they
come to you); others offer emergency services, boarding, grooming,
or other specialized care. When shopping for a vet, consider what
services you’re looking for. Price shouldn’t be the only considera-
tion.
Veterinarians work at a variety of facilities. These include the
following:
≠ Animal hospitals—These hospitals usually employ a large num-
ber of vets and may have specialists. They may have their own
testing facilities that a smaller clinic can’t afford. They may
handle complex surgeries and emergencies that can’t be treated
anywhere else.
≠ Veterinary clinics—Vet clinics may have one to five or more
vets. These clinics have office hours and may or may not han-
dle emergencies.
≠ Emergency clinics—These vet clinics are for emergencies only.
They usually handle after-hours calls and tend to be expensive.
≠ Low-cost clinics—A relatively new type of vet clinic, the pur-
pose behind most low-cost clinics is to provide routine services
(vaccinations, heartworm tests, spay/neuters) at a low price.
Chapter 12: Choosing a Veterinarian 175

These clinics make up in volume for their lower prices. They


generally don’t have the facilities to handle emergencies or
complex diagnoses.
≠ Mobile clinics—Mobile clinics
are usually associated with an Retriever Rewards
animal hospital or a veterinary If you’re on a bud-
clinic. They offer convenience get, perhaps a low-
cost clinic will work for you.
to the pet owner, with some-
These clinics offer low prices on
times limited services. routine care, such as spays and
neuters, vaccinations, and heart-
≠ University clinics—These clin-
worm tests. These clinics are sel-
ics are usually state-of-the-art dom full-service facilities and are
when it comes to treating pets unable to handle emergencies
with unusual conditions or or more complex procedures.
serious diseases such as cancer.

Finding the Best Dog Doc for Your Golden


Finding the best dog doc in your neighborhood might be just a call
away. Ask your dog-owning friends and neighbors who they use
as a vet. Good vets don’t need to advertise. Most get their clients
through word-of-mouth.
But what if they don’t have any good recommendations? Well,
you can contact your Golden’s breeder to see whether she has sug-
gestions. Even if the breeder
doesn’t live in your area, she can Retriever Rewards
ask other Golden breeders in You can find the
your area whom they take their American Animal
dogs to. Other people to contact Hospital Association online at
might be trainers and groomers in http://www.aahanet.org/ or
contact them at P.O. Box
your area.
150899, Denver, Colorado,
If you are stuck, you can USA 80215-0899, phone
contact the American Animal (303) 986-2800.
176 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

Hospital Association for a list of vets in your area. Or you can look
through the telephone directory under veterinarians and make a list
of vets in your area.
After you have a list of vets, call them and ask questions. These
questions will help narrow down your choices for a veterinarian.
These questions have no right or wrong answers. Some questions
may be more important to you than others.
≠ What is the cost for vaccinations, office visits, and other rou-
tine services?
≠ What hours is your clinic open? Do you offer after-hours serv-
ices?
≠ Do you handle emergencies, or are you affiliated with a clinic
that handles emergencies? Are the vets on-call, and do they
have an on-call pager?
≠ Do any of the vets specialize in a particular area such as aller-
gies, neurology, or holistic treatments?
≠ Do you offer an on-site groomer or boarding?
≠ Do you offer a multi-pet discount?
≠ Do you take pet insurance?
≠ Do you make housecalls? Under what circumstances?
≠ How many Golden Retrievers does the vet see?

The staff at the clinic should be courteous and willing to answer


your questions.
When you’ve narrowed down the vets to a few choices, call
them and schedule an appointment to visit the facility. Don’t drop
by unannounced—you may show up during a busy time when the
staff may not have a chance to talk with you. When you do visit,
ask for a tour. The clinic should be clean, and the staff should be
friendly and helpful. If you have a chance to talk with the vet, do so.
Chapter 12: Choosing a Veterinarian 177

Find out what the vet’s training is and whether he is familiar with
conditions common to Goldens. If you’re interested in holistic medi-
cine, find out whether the veterinarian uses holistic therapies or is
strictly a conventional vet.
You should have a good feel-
ing about the veterinarian and
the clinic before bringing your Golden Glossary
Golden there. Usually the final Holistic medicine A
type of medicine that
test is when you bring your
incorporates treatments generally
Golden for his first appointment. not found in conventional medi-
Although some dogs won’t get cine such as herbal therapy,
along with any vet, the vet should acupuncture, and chiropractics.
have a gentle and caring manner
toward your Golden.

Meet the Vet—Your Golden’s First Visit


Before bringing your Golden home, your first stop should be the
vet. Many shelters and breeders require that you bring your Golden
Retriever to the veterinarian for a thorough checkup within the first
week to make sure she was healthy when she left their care.
Bring your Golden’s health records with you, if the breeder, res-
cue, or shelter provided them. Before you bring your Golden in, ask
whether the vet would like a fecal sample. If the answer is yes, bring
the sample in a plastic baggie.
Your veterinarian should give your Golden a thorough exam.
He should listen to your Golden’s heart and check him over for
any problems. Most vets will ask what you’re feeding him and make
recommendations. Your vet will most likely discuss proper puppy
and dog health care and the benefits of spaying or neutering.
Now is the time to ask any questions concerning your Golden’s
health. Don’t feel silly asking questions—most vets have heard it all
before. If you don’t understand something your vet says, ask!
178 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

Your vet will also discuss vaccinations with you. Depending on


your vet’s philosophy concerning vaccinations, you may be vaccinat-
ing your Golden at this time. You should follow your vet’s advice
concerning vaccinations.

Vaccinations
Vaccinations will help immunize your Golden against deadly dis-
eases such as rabies, distemper, and parvovirus. Some of these dis-
eases, such as rabies and leptospirosis, your Golden can actually
transmit to you and other people (rabies and distemper, among oth-
ers, have a very high to 100 percent mortality rate).
Veterinarians used to vaccinate dogs every year against every dis-
ease for which there was a vaccine. Nowadays, vets are becoming
more cautious about vaccinating because of the chance of adverse
reactions and autoimmune disorders. Some vaccines, like rabies, can
be administered once every three years. Some veterinary colleges
have recommended giving fewer vaccinations.
The problem with not giving vaccinations is that your Golden
might not be protected against diseases. But then, much of whether
you should vaccinate depends on your Golden’s risk of exposure to
the disease. For example, Lyme disease may or may not be a real
issue where you live, and unless you’re planning on traveling to
the Rocky Mountains or your
Golden Glimmers Golden drinks from streams, a
What about holistic vaccines giardia vaccination might not
or nosodes? Nosodes are the be appropriate.
holistic version of vaccines.
Nosodes are not FDA ap- Follow your vet’s advice con-
proved for preventing any dis- cerning vaccines. If your Golden
ease, and there is no scientific is constantly exposed to other
evidence to show that they dogs in a dog show or hunting
work.
environment, then perhaps more
vaccinations are in order.
Chapter 12: Choosing a Veterinarian 179

When to Vaccinate
Puppies receive maternal antibodies through their mother’s
colostrum—milk produced during the 24 hours after the puppies
are born. These antibodies protect the puppy for several weeks.
Some time after the fifth week, these antibodies fade, leaving the
puppy vulnerable to disease.
Vets usually vaccinate puppies several times—it does no good to
vaccinate a puppy before the maternal antibodies fade because the
antibodies will override the body’s immune response to the vaccine.
Unfortunately, we don’t know when these antibodies go away—
the time varies from puppy to puppy—so vets try to vaccinate the
puppy after the antibodies fade and before the puppy is exposed to
diseases.

Available Vaccinations
Does your Golden need to be immunized against everything? Not
necessarily. You should definitely vaccinate your Golden against
diseases such as rabies, parvovirus, and distemper, but the degree
of risk should dictate whether you need to vaccinate your Golden
against kennel cough, leptospirosis, giardia, and Lyme disease. Talk
with your veterinarian about these vaccines and whether your
Golden is at high risk.

No Biscuit!
Is your Golden at high risk to contract certain diseases? It
depends. If you show your Golden, enter him in field trials, board him, or
otherwise expose him to a large number of dogs, then yes, your Golden is
at greater risk of contracting certain types of diseases. Likewise, if you do
a lot of outdoor training in certain areas, your Golden may be at risk of
contracting giardia and Lyme disease.
The best thing to do is talk with your vet. He or she can recommend a vac-
cination regimen that will best protect your pet.
180 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

Your veterinarian has vaccines that will protect against the fol-
lowing diseases:
≠ Rabies—This disease is caused by a virus and is nearly 100 per-
cent fatal. Two types of rabies exist: dumb (paralytic) and furi-
ous. Both types affect the central nervous system. In dumb
rabies, the dog’s throat becomes paralyzed, causing excessive
salivation (drooling) and inability to swallow. Furious rabies is
the classic “mad dog” form, in which the dog becomes vicious
and attacks anything. Furious rabies eventually progresses to
the paralytic stage, and death follows within a few days.
Rabies is contagious to humans and is transmitted through the
dog’s saliva—either through a bite or through wounds in the
skin. The incubation period varies considerably: anywhere
from three weeks to three months or more.
≠ Canine Distemper (CDV)—This disease is nearly always fatal.
Distemper starts with a yellow-gray discharge from the nose
and eyes, high temperature, dry cough, and lethargy. It may
progress to appetite loss, diarrhea, and vomiting. Distemper
may affect the intestinal tract or may attack the nervous system,
causing seizures and convulsions. Some dogs may have harden-
ing of the pads, hence the name “hardpad disease.”
Distemper is highly contagious among dogs and may be trans-
mitted through the air, on shoes, or on clothing. Its incubation
period is about 3–6 days.
≠ Canine Adenovirus 2 (CA 2)—Canine Adenovirus 2 is a form of
kennel cough. Dogs who contract kennel cough have a harsh,
dry cough and may sound like they are gagging. Unless the dog
is very old or young, kennel cough is more of a nuisance than a
danger.
It is highly infectious and is transmitted through the air. The
incubation period is between 5 and 10 days.
Chapter 12: Choosing a Veterinarian 181

≠ Infectious Canine Hepatitis (CA 1)—Infectious Canine


Hepatitis is a form of Adenovirus that causes fever, lethargy,
jaundice (due to liver involvement), excessive thirst, vomiting,
eye and nasal discharge,
Golden Glimmers
bloody diarrhea, hunched
back, hemorrhage, and con- Canine Infectious Tracheo-
junctivitis. Infectious Canine bronchitis or “kennel cough” is
actually caused by a number
Hepatitis may attack the kid-
of viruses and bacteria, includ-
neys, liver, eyes, and the lin- ing Bordetella bronchiseptica,
ing of blood vessels. Both canine parainfluenza, and
CA1 and distemper may canine adenovirus-2.
occur simultaneously.
It’s contagious through an infected dog’s urine, feces, and
saliva. Its incubation period is between 4 and 9 days.
≠ Canine Parainfluenza—Canine Parainfluenza is another form
of kennel cough. Dogs who contract kennel cough have a
harsh, dry cough and may sound like they are gagging. Unless
the dog is very old or young, kennel cough is more of a nui-
sance than a danger.
It is highly infectious and is transmitted through the air. The
incubation period is between 5 and 10 days.
≠ Leptospirosis—This bacterial infection has symptoms that
include high fever, frequent urination, brown substance on
tongue, lack of appetite, renal failure, hunched back, bloody
vomit and diarrhea, mild conjunctivitis, and depression. It is
contagious to humans.
Dogs may contract leptospirosis from rats, infected water sup-
plies, and other infected dogs. The incubation period is
between 5 and 15 days. It is seldom fatal, with only a 10 per-
cent mortality rate.
182 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

≠ Canine Parvovirus—This nasty virus appeared in 1978. It’s


characterized by severe, bloody diarrhea, vomiting, dehydra-
tion, high fever, and depression.
It is highly infectious and is transmitted through fecal matter.
The virus can live up to one year in the soil and can be carried
on shoes or paws. It has a 7–10 day incubation period and a 50
percent mortality rate.

Golden Glimmers ≠ Canine Coronavirus—A less


deadly virus than parvovirus,
Vaccine manufacturers have coronavirus looks a lot like a
approved most vaccines for
annual administration. How-
milder form of parvovirus.
ever, this means that the vac- Indeed, both parvovirus and
cine’s efficacy has been tested coronavirus may infect a dog
for only a one-year period; it simultaneously.
doesn’t mean the vaccine is
not effective after one year. Coronavirus is transmitted
through fecal matter. It has a
24–36 hour incubation period.
≠ Bordetella bronchiseptica—Bordetella bronchiseptica is a form
of kennel cough. Dogs who contract kennel cough have a
harsh, dry cough and may sound like they are gagging. Unless
the dog is very old or young, kennel cough is more of a nui-
sance than a danger.
It is highly infectious and is transmitted through the air. The
incubation period is between 5 and 10 days.
≠ Lyme disease (Borellosis)—Lyme disease is a tick-borne disease
that appeared in Lyme, Connecticut, in 1975. Lyme disease is
fairly common along the East Coast and Upper Midwest in the
United States and continues to spread. Lyme disease’s symp-
toms can make it difficult to diagnose: fever, lameness, loss of
appetite, and fatigue.
Lyme disease is transmitted through deer ticks. The primary
hosts are deer and mice.
Chapter 12: Choosing a Veterinarian 183

≠ Giardia—Giardia is a microscopic organism that lives in


streams. Carried by beavers and other wildlife, as well as
domesticated animals, giardia was confined to the Rocky
Mountains but may be found in any untreated water. Giardia
causes severe diarrhea, vomiting, and weight loss.

Pet Health Insurance


You may be surprised to hear that pet health insurance is available
for your Golden. It can help with some of the expenses incurred
from veterinary care. Some insurance plans cover only major medical
expenses, and others take care of routine health care. The AKC
offers a free trial subscription to their own health insurance when
you register a puppy—another good reason to remember to register
your Golden.
The following pet health insurance companies are listed here for
information only—this is not an endorsement.
Pet Assure
10 South Morris St
Dover, NJ 07801
888-789-PETS (7387)
E-mail: custserv@petassure.com
Website: http://www.petassure.com/
PetCare Insurance Programs
P.O. Box 8575
Rolling Meadows, IL 60008-8575
866-275-PETS (7387)
E-mail: info@petcareinsurance.com
Website: http://www.petcareinsurance.com/us/
Pet Plan Insurance (Canada)
777 Portage Ave
Winnipeg, MB R3G 0N3 CANADA
905-279-7190
Website: http://www.petplan.com/
184 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

Petshealth Insurance Agency


P.O. Box 2847
Canton, OH 44720
888-592-7387
Website: http://www.petshealthplan.com/
Premier Pet Insurance Group
9541 Harding Blvd
Wauwatosa, WI 53226
877-774-2273
Website: http://www.ppins.com/
Veterinary Pet Insurance (VPI)
P.O. Box 2344
Brea, CA 92822-2344
1-800-USA-PETS
Website: http://www.petinsurance.com/

The Least You Need to Know


≠ The best way to find a good veterinarian in your area is word-
of-mouth.
≠ When looking for a vet, find out what office hours he has,
whether he has provisions for emergency service, how much he
charges for routine services, and what type of services are avail-
able.
≠ The important thing is that you must like and trust your
Golden’s vet; otherwise, you are less likely to follow her
instructions.
≠ Use your first visit to ask any questions you might have con-
cerning your Golden’s health, nutrition, or even training.
≠ Follow your veterinarian’s recommendations concerning your
Golden’s health and vaccination schedule.
≠ Vaccines are important and will help protect your Golden
against deadly diseases.
Chapter

13
Inside and Out:
The Battle of the Bugs
In This Chapter
≠ Roundworms, hookworms, tapeworms, whipworms,
and heartworms
≠ Giardia and Coccidia—two nasty internal parasites
≠ Fleas and ticks
≠ How to rid your home of fleas
≠ Tick-borne diseases
≠ Mites

Bugged out? Your Golden will be if you don’t prevent fleas, ticks,
and mites. But that’s half the story—there are other icky creatures
that can infect your Golden’s insides, like roundworms, hookworms,
and heartworms.
In this chapter, I cover internal and external parasites: What they
do, how they affect your Golden’s health, and how to prevent them.
186 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

Over-the-Counter Remedies for Parasites


There’s a myriad of pests out there, and your Golden is apt to pick
up a few occasionally. But should you treat your Golden yourself?
The answer is maybe.
If you suspect your Golden has worms, it might be tempting to
treat him with over-the-counter dewormers. Unless you have experi-
ence with recognizing worms, however, this might not be a good
idea. Not all dewormers work on all worms, and some touted for
certain kinds of worms may not work well or may have adverse side
effects. All wormers are poisons,
No Biscuit! and even those with a relatively
If you own a cat, high margin of safety can cause
be careful which pesticides you ill effects.
use around your house and on
your Golden Retriever. Flea and It’s better to have your Golden
tick remedies that are safe for diagnosed by a veterinarian first
dogs are not always safe for and prescribed the proper medica-
cats. Some pesticides are poi-
tion. This way, you know your
sonous to cats, especially if
they lick the pesticide off your dog is getting the right medicine
Golden. at the right dose for exactly what
ails him.
What about flea and tick medications? It’s always a good idea to
talk with your vet when trying to control those nasty bugs. Your vet
has the latest medications that have been proven to work for con-
trolling fleas and ticks. Even if you decide to buy over-the-counter
pesticides, consulting with your vet and a poison control center is
always a smart move because pesticides can interact with one other
and can even interact with certain medications you give your dog.

Roundworms
Roundworms (Toxocara canis) are the most common worms. Puppies
frequently contract roundworms from their mothers. If your
Chapter 13: Inside and Out: The Battle of the Bugs 187

Golden’s mother has ever had roundworms during her life, your
puppy has probably contracted them. Roundworms lie dormant
in a female dog’s body and start migrating to the puppies when
she becomes pregnant. The female can further infect her puppies
through her milk. Other avenues for transmission include fecal
matter. Contracting roundworms is not a statement of the breeder’s
care. However, the breeder should deworm the puppies.
Roundworm infestation can be serious in puppies and in old
and debilitated dogs. If your Golden has roundworms, they are
benefiting from food intended for your Golden.
If he is infested with roundworms, your Golden may have a pot-
belly, lose weight, and have a poor-quality coat. Other signs include
vomiting, diarrhea, and a garlic odor to the breath. Take your puppy
and a fecal sample to the vet. Roundworms can kill a puppy.

No Biscuit!
About 10,000 cases of roundworm infection are reported in
humans each year. (The exact number isn’t known, because not all cases
are reported or diagnosed.) Roundworm can be serious in children, caus-
ing blindness. Roundworm is contracted by handling dirt or fecal material
and not washing one’s hands. This is why it’s important to teach children to
wash after playing in dirt.

Hookworms
Hookworms (Ancylostoma caninum) are smaller than roundworms and
feed off your Golden’s blood in the small intestine. These worms
infest your Golden by penetrating the skin or through the dam’s
milk.
Serious infestations can be life-threatening and can cause severe
anemia. Diarrhea, weight loss, and lethargy are also signs of hook-
worm infestation.
188 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

Tapeworms
Tapeworms (Dipylidium caninum) are long, flat worms that may infest
your Golden’s intestines. These worms may break off and be excreted
in your Golden’s poop. They look like grains of rice in the poop or
around the dog’s anus.
Fleas commonly carry tapeworm. Your Golden may swallow a
flea, thus becoming infested. Other modes of transmission include
raw game meat. Some dogs catch and eat mice or other rodents,
which carry tapeworm.

Whipworms
Whipworms (Trichuris vulpis) are difficult to diagnose because they
don’t always produce eggs in fecal matter. These worms feed on
blood in the large intestine. Like hookworms, they can be serious and
cause severe anemia. Dogs become infested by eating something in
contaminated soil.

Heartworms
Heartworm (Dirofilaria immitis) is an internal parasite that can kill
your Golden Retriever. It is transmitted by mosquitoes. Most states
within the continental United States have the heartworm parasite,
although it is less prevalent in the
Retriever Rewards western states.
It is less expensive Regardless of where you live,
and risky to prevent
have your Golden tested for heart-
heartworms than to treat an
infestation. Areas with cold cli- worm once a year and put on a
mates require six months of heartworm preventive. Heartworm
heartworm preventive. In warmer treatment is almost as dangerous as
areas, the dog must be on heart- the worms themselves, but prevent-
worm preventive year-round.
ing them is easy. In many areas,
Chapter 13: Inside and Out: The Battle of the Bugs 189

heartworm is seasonal, and you have to administer the preventive


only during the spring and summer months. Heartworm season is
year-round in the southern states and areas where the temperatures
seldom reach freezing.
Your veterinarian should administer a heartworm test before
putting your Golden on a preventive.

The Heartworm Lifecycle


Mosquitoes transmit heartworm by feeding on an infected dog. The
microfilariae or heartworm larvae incubate within the mosquito for
several days. When the infected
mosquito feeds on another dog, Golden Glossary
it injects the infectious microfi- Microfilariae Heart-
lariae into the dog, and the dog worm larvae that infect
becomes infected with heartworm. a dog.

Preventives
Several different heartworm preventives are available, including
some that help control other worms. Most veterinarians now pre-
scribe monthly heartworm preventives, although a few daily preven-
tives are available. Do not use the daily preventives, as they are less
effective than the monthly preventives if administered incorrectly.
Heartworm preventives include the following:
≠ Heartgard (Ivermectin)—This is the oldest form of monthly
heartworm preventive. Heartgard Plus has pyrantel pamoate to
control roundworms and hookworms. Some dogs are sensitive
to Ivermectin, but this sensitivity is rare.
≠ Interceptor (Milbemycin) and Sentinel (Milbemycin and
Lufenuron)—Interceptor controls heartworm as well as hook-
worms, roundworms, and whipworms in a monthly preventive.
Sentinel also controls fleas.
190 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

≠ Revolution (Selamectin)—A topical application, Revolution


works as a monthly heartworm and flea preventive.
≠ Proheart 6 (Moxidectin)—A six-month preventive, Proheart 6
is given as an injection and can be administered only by your
vet.

Treatment for Heartworm


If your Golden is heartworm positive, your veterinarian will have to
treat him. Heartworm treatment is still risky but is now safer and
less painful than the old treatment, which used an arsenic IV solu-
tion. The new treatment requires two injections. If your Golden
has heartworms, be certain that your veterinarian is using a newer
treatment than the arsenic-based solution.

Giardia
Giardia is a microscopic organism that can cause extreme diarrhea
and vomiting. Dogs can pick up giardia by drinking water from
streams and lakes or other contaminated sources. You can contract
giardia from the same source or if you fail to wash your hands after
cleaning up after your infected Golden.
Giardia symptoms can be mild to extreme. They can be chronic
and may reoccur even after treatment. Only your vet can prescribe
medications that will cure giardia.

No Biscuit!
Don’t drink the water in small mountain towns in the Rocky
Mountains; drink bottled water instead. Many don’t adequately screen for
giardia and people with no exposure may find themselves with a nasty
case. I’ve had dogs get giardia from water from contaminated wells.
When they have it, you know it! Also be careful with coffee and tea—
most aren’t heated sufficiently to kill giardia.
Chapter 13: Inside and Out: The Battle of the Bugs 191

Coccidia
Coccidia are microscopic parasites that frequently affect puppies in
crowded puppy mill conditions. Occasionally puppies from rep-
utable breeders may contract them if a dog with coccidia comes in
contact with the puppies. Your veterinarian can prescribe medication
to treat coccidia.
To prevent reoccurrences of coccidia, use an ammonia-based
cleaner. Clean up all places where your Golden has defecated with
Pine-Sol® or a similar cleaner.

Fleas
Fleas thrive in all climates except the very cold, the very dry, and
high altitudes. If you live in one of these climates, you’re probably
feeling smug right now. If you don’t, you’re probably looking at a
map to find such a place. Fleas are horrible critters and are hard to
get rid of after you have them.
If you suspect an infestation, search for fleas on your Golden
around his belly and groin area, at the base of his tail, and around
his ears. A common sign of fleas are deposits of tiny black flea feces
that turn red when wet.

Health Hazards Retriever Rewards


Slip a piece of flea
Fleas are more than just annoying control collar in the
hard-shelled insects that feed on vacuum cleaner bag to help kill
blood and make your Golden mis- the fleas. Then throw the vacuum
erable. Fleas are carriers of tape- cleaner bag in the dumpster—
you don’t need the fleas to find
worm and bubonic plague, which their way back into your house.
can severely affect your Golden’s
health. Bubonic plague is deadly,
192 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

and you can contract it, too. Fleas carry other diseases, too, so don’t
consider them just a nuisance.

Declaring War
When you find fleas, the best thing is to contact your vet for recom-
mendations. Your vet will recommend products based on your cli-
mate and your Golden’s age and health. He will also recommend
products that are safe to use to-
gether. Be careful about mixing
Retriever Rewards products and always read the label.
One vet I know rec-
ommends Preventic™ If you find fleas on your
tick collars to prevent ticks from Golden, you’re guaranteed to have
attaching to dogs. It is very a flea infestation in your home.
effective against ticks, but not
against fleas. As with any collar, You’ll have to vacuum all carpets
it can be poisonous if your and furniture—anywhere fleas
Golden chews and swallows it. hide. Don’t forget to treat your
car interior as well!

Your Latest Arsenal


Systemic treatments have made most poison collars, dips, and sprays
obsolete, except in the worst infestations. Some of these systemic
treatments are as follows:
≠ Frontline (Fipronil) and Frontline Plus (Fipronil and Metho-
prene) work by killing fleas within 24–48 hours. Frontline Plus
contains an insect growth regulator that keeps immature fleas
from reproducing. It is a topical, spot-on (put on the skin in a
spot or line) systemic that works for three months on adult
fleas and one month on ticks.
≠ Advantage (Imidacloprid) works by killing both adult fleas and
larvae within 48 hours. It is a topical, spot-on systemic that
works for six weeks on adult fleas.
Chapter 13: Inside and Out: The Battle of the Bugs 193

≠ Program (Lufenuron) works by preventing flea eggs from


hatching or maturing into adults. It is a pill you give once a
month.
≠ Biospot (pyrethrins and fenoxycarb) is a topical spot-on sys-
temic that kills fleas and ticks for one month. It has an insect
growth regulator that keeps immature fleas from reproducing.
I’ve also seen it repel flies.

No Biscuit!
Recently some prescription flea medications and systemics
have been counterfeited. These counterfeit products may not have the
same ingredients as the real products and may be dangerous to your
Golden. To avoid counterfeit products, buy your flea medications from
your vet.

Over-the-Counter Weapons
Be extremely careful when working with insecticides. These are
poisons and can harm your dog. Some medications and wormers
may react with certain pesticides, so it is important to be certain
that what you are using will not interact with other pesticides or
medications. Contact your veterinarian or your local poison control
center concerning their safety.
Many manufacturers make flea control products that are in-
tended to work together as a complete solution. When looking for
a flea control system, get one that will work in your home, in your
yard, and on your dog.

Ticks
Ticks are nasty relatives of the spider. If your Golden has been out-
side for any period of time or has run through deep underbrush, you
should check him for ticks.
194 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

Tick-Borne Diseases
Ticks carry a variety of diseases including Lyme disease, Canine
Ehrlichiosis, Babesiosis, and Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever. These
diseases can greatly affect your Golden’s health or may even be fatal.
Your vet can test for tick diseases through a blood test and can treat
them with medications. If your Golden tests positive for a tick-
borne disease, you may want to consider having your own doctor
test you for the same disease. In rare instances, contact with your
dog’s bodily fluids may transmit these diseases to you.
≠ Lyme disease—Common signs of Lyme disease are lameness
and fever. A dog with Lyme disease may lack appetite, be
unusually tired, and have swelling of the lymph nodes. The dog
may have bouts of unexplained lameness that may become
chronic.
≠ Canine Ehrlichiosis—Common signs of Canine Ehrlichiosis
are fever, discharge from the eyes and nose, and swollen limbs
(edema). A dog with Canine Ehrlichiosis may lack appetite, be
unusually tired, and have swelling of the lymph nodes.
≠ Babesiosis—Common signs of Babesiosis include fever,
lethargy, and lack of appetite.
≠ Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever (RMSF)—Common signs
of RMSF are high fever, abdominal pain, coughing, lack of
appetite, lethargy, swelling of face or limbs, depression,
vomiting, diarrhea, and muscle or joint pain.

How to Remove Ticks


If you find a tick on your Golden, avoid handling it, or you risk
exposing yourself to disease. Instead, treat the area with a good tick
insecticide approved for use on dogs, wait a few minutes, and then
try to remove the tick. Wear latex gloves and use tweezers. Firmly
Chapter 13: Inside and Out: The Battle of the Bugs 195

grasp the tick as close to the dog’s skin as possible with the tweezers
and gently pull. Don’t try to pull the tick out if it resists—you may
leave portions of the tick embedded in your dog, which may become
infected. Wait for the tick to drop off and dispose of it by sealing it
in a jar with some bleach or ammonia.

Mites
Mites are microscopic arachnids, related to ticks and spiders. There
are several types of mites, including those that cause sarcoptic and
demodectic mange and those that enter the ears and cause infection.

Ear Mites
Ear mites (Otodectes cynotis) will make your Golden miserable. If your
Golden has reddish-brown earwax, he may have ear mites, especially
if he scratches or shakes his head frequently. Those floppy ears are
great for mites and bacterial infections, so it’s important to keep
your Golden’s ears clean.
Don’t try to treat ear mites with over-the-counter solutions,
because your Golden may already have a secondary infection. Your
vet will clean out the reddish-brown gunk and give you ear drops
to kill the mites and handle any infections.

Mange Mites
Two types of mites cause mange. Demodectic (Demodex canis) mites
feed primarily on the cells of hair follicles. Mange appears as dry,
scaly red skin, with hair loss, mostly around the face. Demodectic
mange exists on all dogs, but the severe reaction is thought to be
triggered by a depressed immune system. Most of the time, localized
demodectic mange clears up on its own. If it is generalized or
doesn’t clear up, it’s hard to treat.
196 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

Sarcoptic mites (Sarcoptes scabei) are highly contagious. This


mange may spread quickly in kennels. It is itchy and is accompanied
by hair loss and a red rash. The dog may have ugly sores from
scratching. Your vet can prescribe a topical product to treat sarcoptic
mange. You may have to treat your Golden with medicated baths
and body dips. If the sores are infected, your vet may prescribe
antibiotics.
Your vet can diagnose your Golden with skin scrapings to deter-
mine whether he has mites and what type. You cannot treat mites
with over-the-counter remedies.

The Least You Need to Know


≠ Internal parasites can severely affect the health of your Golden.
Do not treat them as normal or commonplace.
≠ Don’t treat your Golden with over-the-counter dewormers,
as they may be ineffective against certain worms or have side
effects.
≠ Heartworm is a dangerous parasite that can kill your Golden.
Preventives will help keep your Golden heartworm-free.
≠ Fleas are more than annoying hard-shelled insects—they can
carry diseases such as bubonic plague or tapeworms.
≠ Ticks can spread Lyme disease, Canine Ehrlichiosis, Babesi-
osis, and Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever. You, too, can con-
tract these diseases from ticks.
≠ There are several types of mites, including ear mites and
mange mites. Contact your vet for appropriate diagnosis
and treatment.
14
Chapter

Healthy Choices—
Preventive Care
In This Chapter
≠ Learn why spaying or neutering your Golden Retriever is a
good idea
≠ Give your dog a weekly health check
≠ Brushing your Golden’s teeth keeps the doggy dentist away
≠ Learn how to clean your Golden’s ears, keep his toenails short,
and keep his anal sacs clear
≠ Grooming your Golden doesn’t have to be a chore
≠ Don’t struggle with your dog when you give medications

Your Golden’s health is important. Although your vet can diag-


nose illness and injury, you’re often your Golden’s first line of
defense. You can’t necessarily perform surgery or diagnose a disease,
but you can perform a health check to catch problems early, give
your Golden medications, and perform routine grooming and main-
tenance.
198 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

In this chapter, you’ll learn how to care for your Golden to


ensure a long and healthy life.

The Great Spay/Neuter Debate


No doubt you’ve heard that you should spay or neuter your Golden
Retriever. Maybe the breeder recommended it, or your Golden’s vet,
or you’ve heard it from a friend or co-worker. Maybe someone from
a shelter or rescue group suggested it. Or maybe you signed a con-
tract promising to do it. Regardless, you may be wondering whether
you should spay or neuter your Golden.

Why You Should Spay or Neuter Your Golden


Lots of purebred dog owners fail to spay or neuter their dogs be-
cause they’re purebred. Unfortunately, these dogs accidentally
breed, and the results are puppies that add to pet overpopulation.
Every year 5 million pets end up in shelters. A large percentage of
those are dogs that no one wanted. One quarter of those dogs are
purebred, just like your Golden.

Golden Glimmers
How do purebred dogs become unwanted? One of the reasons is
that so many backyard breeders and puppy mills are producing
puppies and selling them to whoever will buy. They don’t screen
their buyers, and they don’t take back their dogs. They see that
Goldens are popular and breed more of them. These dogs may
have health and temperament problems, or they may end up in a
shelter when the owners decide the dog is inconvenient.

By spaying or neutering your Golden, you’ve eliminated the


possibility of your Golden accidentally mating with another dog
and thereby contributing to pet overpopulation. At the same time,
you’ve made your Golden healthier and have improved his or her
temperament.
Chapter 14: Healthy Choices—Preventive Care 199

Myths About Spaying and Neutering


A lot of myths surround spaying and neutering. For example, many
pet owners believe their purebred dog is more valuable intact, be-
cause they can recoup the cost of the dog through stud services or
selling puppies. The truth is that having a litter and doing it right
is expensive. Expenses include health certifications, extra veterinary
bills (for breeding, whelping, vaccinations, and care), extra food
bills, stud fees, whelping equipment, advertising, and lost time. As
any breeder can tell you, you can lose the puppies or the mother
through complications and diseases. If your Golden has too many
puppies, she may need help nursing them—are you willing to feed
puppies every four hours around the clock? How will you find suit-
able buyers?
But the myths don’t end there. Let’s take a look at some other
myths.
≠ My female Golden needs to have puppies to “settle her
temperament.” Breeding a dog won’t change her tempera-
ment for the better—she may act maternal while she has the
puppies but not afterward. She may also act aggressive when
she has the puppies.
≠ My male Golden won’t act or look male. Actually, he will,
but it may take him a little longer to lift his leg than he nor-
mally would when intact. Neutered males tend to be bigger
than their intact counterparts. (It’s a little-known fact that
neutered males can have sex with females who are in season.)
≠ My Golden will miss sex. Sex for dogs is an instinct.
Dogs gain no pleasure from sex—most find it painful and
uncomfortable.
≠ My Golden will be healthier if she has her first heat.
Your Golden will actually be healthier if she’s spayed before
her first heat.
200 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

≠ My Golden won’t guard if he’s neutered. Goldens aren’t


supposed to be guarding dogs, nor are they supposed to be
aggressive. An aggressive dog is a liability. Neutering doesn’t
affect the dog’s ability to work in the slightest.
≠ My Golden will become fat and lazy if I neuter him.
Neutering doesn’t cause your Golden to become fat; over-
feeding does. You may have to reduce your Golden’s food
a bit to prevent excess pounds, but that’s not a drawback.
≠ I want to show my kids the miracle of birth. Buy a video-
tape and watch it with them. Don’t use your Golden as a les-
son. What if there’s a problem? Do you want to show them
dead puppies or what happens when a pup gets stuck in the
birth canal? And after the puppies are here, what will you do
with them all? Do you want to show your kids irresponsibility
by dumping the puppies off at the local shelter?
≠ My Golden is valuable because I paid a lot for him. I
shouldn’t neuter him. The price tag of your Golden reflects
the cost the breeder put into the dog. Unless your Golden is
show quality and you’ve shown him (not a cheap proposition),
your Golden will not produce valuable puppies.
≠ I can’t spay or neuter my Golden until he’s at least six
months old. Actually, you can spay and neuter puppies as
young as eight weeks old. The latest anesthesias have a larger
safety factor than those used 10 or 20 years ago.

Retriever Rewards
Many humane societies offer coupons for low-cost spays
and neuters. Two organizations, Spay USA and Friends of
Animals, offer low-cost spays and neuters where prices depend on
region or work with veterinarian to help reduce the cost. Contact
Spay USA at www.spayusa.org or (800) 248-SPAY, or Friends of
Animals at www.friendsofanimals.org or (800) 321-PETS.
Chapter 14: Healthy Choices—Preventive Care 201

Health and Behavior Benefits


Now that we’ve dispelled some of the myths about spaying and neu-
tering, what about the benefits?
≠ Your female Golden will not go into season (also called heat or
estrus) twice a year. This means you won’t have the associated
mess, you won’t have to worry about another dog mating with
her or unwanted puppies, and you won’t have to lock her up.
≠ Your male Golden won’t become sexually frustrated whenever
an intact female comes by. You’ll reduce or eliminate unwanted
dominance behavior, such as humping, marking, and domi-
nance aggression.
≠ If you have a multi-dog household, you may see less aggression
if all the dogs are spayed and neutered. I’ve seen a remarkable
turnaround with my dogs—including females.
≠ By spaying your female, you’ve eliminated the chance of pyo-
metra, a dangerous infection of the uterus, as well as ovarian
and uterus cancers. If you spay your Golden before her first
season, you’ll significantly reduce the chance of mammary
tumors (breast cancer).
≠ By neutering your male, you’ve eliminated the chance of testic-
ular cancer. You will significantly reduce the chance of anal
tumors and may reduce the chance of prostate cancer.

Because cancer is the number-one killer in dogs over eight years


old, you should seriously consider spaying and neutering your
Golden to increase his chances of living a long and happy life.

Giving Your Golden a Health Exam


Make it a weekly ritual to examine your Golden, preferably while
grooming him. Start with his head and work your way back. Look
for abnormalities such as bumps and lumps. If you feel a lump on
202 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

one side, check the other side to see whether it’s normal. For exam-
ple, if you feel a lump on the right elbow, check the left elbow in the
same place. If there is a similar lump there, you can safely discount
the lumps as normal.
≠ Eyes—Your Golden’s eyes should be clear and bright without
excessive or pus-like discharge. No redness or tearing.
≠ Nose—Your Golden’s nose should be cool to the touch and
moist. Hot and dry may indicate a fever. There should be no
discharge or blood.
≠ Ears—Your Golden’s ears should be clean and sweet smelling.
Any foul odor or excessive buildup of wax indicates a possible
ear problem.
≠ Mouth—Your Golden’s teeth should be white and clean, with-
out tartar buildup. The gums should be a healthy pink, not red.
Your Golden’s breath should not be foul smelling—if it is, it
may suggest tooth or gum problems.
≠ Legs—Feel down your Golden’s legs to check for any lumps or
bumps. Inspect the footpads for cuts and foreign objects such
as grass seeds and foxtails. Look at the toenails—they shouldn’t
be red or broken. Move the legs slowly and gently to check for
full range of motion. There should be no clicks or pops.
≠ Skin and fur—Are there any sores, bald patches, or red areas
on the skin? Is the skin dry or flaky? Are there dark grains
through the fur that turn red when wet (a sign of fleas)?
≠ Tail—Is the tail healthy looking or hanging limp? Has your
Golden been chewing on it?
≠ Sexual organs—Is there
Retriever Rewards
discharge from the vagina
Examine your
or penis? In intact female
Golden thoroughly at
least once a week to spot possi- dogs, discharge is normal
ble health problems. only during estrus.
Chapter 14: Healthy Choices—Preventive Care 203

Keeping the Doggie Dentist at Bay


Doggie dentistry is no laughing matter. Infected teeth can cause
severe health problems, including heart problems, in your Golden,
plus they just plain hurt! Teeth cleaning requires anesthesia and its
associated risks—not to mention expense.
Many vets recommend brushing your dog’s teeth every day with
toothpaste specially formulated for dogs. Quite honestly, most dog
owners don’t have the time or patience to do that, so I recommend
brushing your Golden’s teeth once a week to reduce plaque, which
leads to tartar. If your Golden
No Biscuit!
has good teeth (and healthy teeth
Human toothpaste
and gums largely depend on
contains fluoride, which is toxic
genetics and diet), you might be to dogs. Brush your Golden’s
able to get away with brushing less teeth only with toothpaste made
often, but that’s not a good idea. specifically for dogs.

Brushing Your Golden’s Teeth


Naturally, your Golden is first going to have to get used to you han-
dling his mouth. Start by holding your Golden’s head gently, flip-
ping up his lip and touching his teeth and gums. Do this gently and
praise him. Practice this often, so he becomes used to you touching
his mouth.
After he gets used to this, get a soft washcloth and wet a corner
of it. Now, with your finger, gently massage your Golden’s gums
with the tip of the washcloth.

Golden Glimmers
The condition of a dog’s teeth largely depends on genetics and diet.
I’ve seen dogs with horrible-looking teeth improve dramatically once
they were put on a premium diet. I’ve seen other dogs who, despite a
premium diet, had thin enamel and bad teeth. You can still make a dif-
ference in the health of your Golden’s teeth by brushing them regularly.
204 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

The next step is to get a toothbrush designed for dogs. Use


toothpaste formulated for pets (never use human toothpaste, as it is
poisonous to dogs). Most are chicken- or malt-flavored, so the taste
is appealing. Your Golden doesn’t have to rinse and spit!

Recognizing a Tooth or Gum Problem


Your Golden can’t point to his mouth and tell you he has a
toothache—nor can he schedule a visit to the doggy dentist. Cavities
in dogs’ teeth are rare, but gingivitis (inflammation of the gums) is
pretty common. You can keep the problems to a minimum by feed-
ing your Golden a good diet and brushing his teeth regularly.
How will you know whether your Golden has a tooth problem?
Look for the warning signs:
≠ Apparent loss of appetite.
≠ Sudden, unexpected chewing on inappropriate items.
≠ Bad breath.
≠ Nasal discharge.
≠ Red, swollen gums.
≠ Lump above or below a particular tooth.

Do You Hear What I Hear?


Goldens frequently develop ear infections. Their dropped ears make
an ideal place for bacteria to grow and mites to hide. Keep your
Golden’s ears clean, and he is less likely to develop problems.

Cleaning Your Golden’s Ears


Use a mild otic solution for dogs. Squeeze some into your Golden’s
ears and then gently massage the outside of the head in the area of
Chapter 14: Healthy Choices—Preventive Care 205

the ear canal. Now, take sterile gauze or sponges and gently wipe
out the excess solution. Never stick a cotton ball, swab, or anything
else down your dog’s ear canal.

Recognizing an Ear Problem


Dogs are miserable when they have ear problems. As with tooth
problems, they can’t pull you aside to tell you. The following signs
tell you that it’s time to visit the vet:
≠ Scratching at, pawing, or shaking of the head.
≠ Yelping when you touch his ear.
≠ Foul-smelling odor coming from the ears.
≠ Excessive waxy buildup.
≠ Ears crusty or red.
≠ Red or black waxy buildup.
≠ White specks that move against a red or black crusty buildup.
These are ear mites and must be treated by a vet.

Clipping Your Golden’s Toenails


If you could poll dogs, they would probably say one of the worst
things you could do (besides take them to the vet) is clip their toe-
nails. And little wonder. Most dogs hate having their feet touched,
and if you accidentally cut the nail quick, you’re likely to never get
near him again without a huge fuss.
Because many Goldens’ nails
are dark, you have to make an
Golden Glossary
educated guess where the quick
Quick The portion of a
is. Using a toenail clipper with
dog’s nail with blood ves-
a safety guard will keep you from sels that supply the nail.
cutting it if you just snip that
206 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

portion. Otherwise, nibble away the nail no more than 1/4 inch. If you
cut into the quick, your Golden will let you know in no uncertain
terms—and won’t want you near his paws again! He’ll also bleed
profusely.
Clip your Golden’s nails once a week to prevent them from over-
growing and breaking (which can be painful). Use a dog nail clipper
(either a guillotine or scissors action), and trim back the nail by snip-
ping off a small portion at a time. If the nail feels spongy or hard to
cut, stop immediately. You can use a nail grinder, which will help file
away the nail instead. Some dogs handle the nail grinder better than
the clippers.
Have styptic powder or sodium nitrate on hand, in case you
do cut the quick. Packing the nail with styptic powder will stop
the bleeding. You can buy styptic powder at pet supply stores or
through pet supply catalogues. In a pinch, cornstarch will also do.

Expressing the Anal Sacs


Dogs have two glands at the four and eight o’clock positions around
their anus. These usually empty when the dog defecates, but occa-
sionally they become overfull or impacted.
If your Golden starts scooting around on his rear or chewing the
fur on his rear or tail, he may have full or impacted anal sacs. These
are painful, and must be attended to. The best times to empty these
are when you are bathing him, because the contents are smellier than
a skunk, and you’ll want to clean him off after you express them.
Fold up a wad of paper towels and place them over your Golden’s
anus. Now press gently on the four and eight o’clock positions.
The glands should express themselves. Don’t put your face near
them while you are pressing against them, or you’ll be in for a
nasty surprise.
If the problem persists, bring your Golden to the vet. He could
have impacted anal glands, which your vet may have to express.
Chapter 14: Healthy Choices—Preventive Care 207

Golden Shimmers—Grooming Your Golden


Ask any Golden owner about her dog’s coat and the first thing she’ll
say is it sheds. And sheds. And sheds. And did I mention, it sheds?

A Golden’s Coat
Okay, now that you’re forewarned, you should brush your Golden a
minimum of once a week—three times or more if she gets dirty or is
seasonally shedding. Some Goldens shed twice a year; most shed
year-round in warmer climates. And that beautiful golden red fur
mats easily if you don’t brush and comb frequently.
When your Golden sheds, she’ll normally shed out her under-
coat, the downy inside layer that keeps her warm. You’ll often see the
undercoat come out in tufts between the harsher topcoat or guard
hairs. Use an undercoat rake, a wire slicker brush, and a long comb
to get out the dead hair. Undercoat rakes look like long combs that
may have serrated teeth. They have a wooden or plastic handle that
enables you to rake through the coat. A wire slicker brush has a han-
dle like the rake and a flat rectan-
gular or square head with dozens Golden Glossary
or hundreds of fine wires that trap Mat A clump of tan-
the loose fur as you comb it. A gled fur that may or may
not have a foreign object
long comb is just that—a metal
in it.
comb with long teeth.

Tools of the Trade


I recommend the following items for easy grooming:
≠ Slicker brush
≠ Undercoat rake
≠ Mat splitter
≠ Long comb
≠ Flea comb
208 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

≠ Grooming table (This will save your back, because you won’t
have to bend over.)
≠ Shampoo and conditioner for dogs
≠ Nail clippers and styptic powder
≠ Blow dryer for dogs (Don’t use human hair dryers, as they are
hot and can burn your Golden’s skin and hair.)

Baths
You usually don’t need to bathe your Golden unless he is dirty or
has been swimming. If your Golden swims in a pool, the chlorine
can damage his coat if it’s not rinsed out. Saltwater may also damage
a coat.
Dog shampoos and rinses are
Retriever Rewards specially balanced for your dog’s
One way to facilitate skin, so don’t be afraid to use
the shedding process them. Don’t use human shampoos,
is to give your Golden a warm
bath when she starts shedding. Be
because they are formulated for
sure to use a drain guard so that humans, not dogs, and will strip
you don’t have to call the plumber the oils from your Golden’s coat.
afterward to unclog the pipes.
When you give your Golden
a bath, do so in a warm place, away
from drafts. Comb and brush your
Retriever Rewards Golden first to remove excess dirt
A recent phenomenon and hair. Then, soak your Golden
is do-it-yourself dog with tepid water, lather him up,
washes. These facilities provide and rinse well. Apply a conditioner,
the grooming-style tubs, water,
if desired, and rinse thoroughly.
soaps, towels, grooming tables,
and blow dryers, making bathing Always rinse your Golden until the
your Golden a breeze and keep- water runs clean—excessive soap
ing the mess out of your home! attracts dirt and may irritate your
Golden’s skin.
Chapter 14: Healthy Choices—Preventive Care 209

© Teresa Bullard
An outdoor bath is okay, if it’s warm. This is Ginger
and her owner, Steven Bullard.

© Carolyn Risdon

Don’t forget to towel dry! Bo is being dried by Susie Risdon.


210 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

Golden Glimmers
If you can’t find time to groom your Golden, consider using a profes-
sional groomer. Don’t wait until his fur is matted or he’s filthy—a visit
once a month can keep your Golden glowing.
You can find a good professional groomer by asking your veterinar-
ian or friends with dogs. Sometimes a vet will have an on-site
groomer who works at his clinic.

Giving Medications
Occasionally, your vet may ask you to administer medications to
your Golden. The most frequent are pills, but occasionally you
may have to give liquids.
It helps if your Golden is comfortable with you handling his
mouth. Start at an early age to get him used to you touching his
mouth. (Brushing his teeth is an ideal time for this.) When your
Golden is used to you touching his mouth, giving medications is
less stressful.

Pill Popping
People seem to have a hard time giving pills to dogs. The truth is,
practice makes perfect. Most dogs will swallow a pill readily if you
open their mouths, pop the pill into the back of the mouth, and
close their jaws with their head tilted upward. You can blow a small
puff of air into your Golden’s nose, and it will cause him to swallow.
Stroking the underside of the throat helps too. Some pet owners use
a little device called a pet piller. It does the same thing, only a little
more accurately. If your aim to the back of the throat is lousy, try
one.
If you can’t get the hang of this, try sticking the pill in a wad of
peanut butter. Most dogs love peanut butter; it sticks to the roof of
their mouth—which provides hours of entertainment for you—and
Chapter 14: Healthy Choices—Preventive Care 211

gets the pill down without a fuss. An alternative is to hide the pill
in a piece of hotdog or some other treat. If the pill can be ground
up (some can’t—check with your vet), try mixing it with one of his
meals. Check with your vet to make sure the medication can be
given with food. Of course there are those dogs who are so clever
that they eat around the pill, so you’ll have to watch for that.

Liquid Medications
Liquid medications are fairly easy to administer. Ask your vet for an
oral syringe (a plastic tube with a plunger but no needle) with the
amount marked on the syringe in permanent marker. Fill the syringe
and then pull your Golden’s lower lip out, near where it joins the
upper lip, to form a pouch. Squirt the medication gently into the
pouch, release it and tilt your Golden’s head back. If the dose is a
large amount, give it in small portions and allow your Golden to
swallow in between administering the portions.

Taking Your Golden’s Temperature


You may have to take your Golden’s temperature occasionally. A
dog’s normal temperature ranges between 100.5 and 102.5ºF.
You can take your Golden’s temperature in two ways. The
older and more common method is rectally. Use an electronic ther-
mometer that can be used rectally and put some petroleum jelly
(Vaseline®) on the bulb. Have someone hold your Golden and insert
the thermometer gently into his anus far enough to get an accurate
reading and wait for the thermometer to beep. You’ll need to keep a
hand just under his tummy while you wait, to keep him from sitting
down.
Nowadays you can use ear thermometers for dogs. Although I
haven’t tried them, they look pretty slick and will certainly make
taking your dog’s temperature easier.
212 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

The Least You Need to Know


≠ Your Golden will be healthier and better behaved if he or she
is neutered or spayed.
≠ Examine your Golden at least once a week for signs of illness
and abnormalities.
≠ Brush your Golden’s teeth at least once a week.
≠ Keep your Golden’s ears clean and free from infections by
cleaning them with a mild otic solution.
≠ Get your Golden used to clipping his toenails and clip them
once a week.
≠ Goldens need brushing at least once a week but may need
brushing as often as three times a week.
≠ Wash your Golden when he is dirty or after he swims to
remove salt or chlorine from his fur.
≠ Giving medications is easy if you know how. Try mixing the
medication with his food or hiding it in a treat.
Common Golden Retriever
15
Chapter

Illnesses, Hereditary
Ailments, and Emergencies
In This Chapter
≠ Learn what congenital and hereditary diseases affect your
Golden
≠ Learn about common illnesses and injuries
≠ Learn how to treat many common problems
≠ Learn how to deal with skunk odor
≠ How to assemble a first aid kit
≠ How to handle emergencies

Goldens are the second most popular of the AKC breeds. Unfor-
tunately, with their popularity also comes hereditary diseases. In this
chapter, you’ll learn about the most common hereditary diseases found
in Goldens.
214 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

You’ll also learn what diseases and ailments are common in dogs
and how to recognize and treat them. Some you can treat; others
require a vet’s assistance. Finally, we’ll take a look at first aid kits and
emergencies.

Hereditary and Congenital Diseases


Many Goldens have hereditary and congenital conditions. Sadly,
there are many cases of Goldens with skin problems, hip dysplasia,
heart problems, and other hereditary diseases that could have been
avoided if the breeders had vigi-
Golden Glossary lantly screened for them.
Congenital A condition Many of these diseases, such
present at birth that may as hip dysplasia, sub-aortic steno-
have either genetic or environ-
sis, allergies, and hypothyroidism
mental causes.
will severely affect your Golden’s
Hereditary A genetic condi-
tion, that is, inherited through the quality of life. This is why it’s
genes of the parents. imperative that you purchase your
Golden from a reputable breeder.

Allergies
Ah-choo! We all think of hay fever when we talk about allergies.
You might be surprised to hear that dogs get it, too. Goldens suffer
from an extraordinary number of allergies, some severe. Most are
hereditary. Your Golden can suffer from contact allergies—external
exposure to irritants and to food. Flea allergy dermatitis is also
prevalent in the breed. Most allergic Goldens have low thyroid
(hypothyroid), which complicates matters.
Some contact allergies are apparent; some aren’t as easy to diag-
nose. For example, if your Golden’s skin looks irritated and is itchy
after using a particular shampoo, you might guess that the dog is
allergic to a chemical in that shampoo. However, you might not
know why your dog’s nose and face are swollen and irritated. Many
Chapter 15: Common Golden Retriever Illnesses, Hereditary Ailments, and Emergencies 215

dogs are allergic to plastic or rubber and may react to their plastic
food bowls. Most contact allergy diagnoses are based on the owners’
observations. You may have to have your vet screen your Golden for
possible allergens and go from there. Because allergies are hereditary
in Goldens, you will want to make sure that the breeder of your
Golden has screened for them.
Food allergies usually manifest as skin or stomach disorders.
Dogs can be allergic to certain ingredients in their food such as corn
or wheat, or the protein source, such as beef, soy, or lamb. These
types of allergies manifest with digestive upsets and skin problems.
Dietary allergies are a bit tricky to diagnose. Your vet will recom-
mend a hypoallergenic diet for several weeks. This diet usually has a
novel protein source—that is, a protein source that dogs generally
don’t eat such as fish, venison, or even kangaroo meat. It may have
an unusual carbohydrate source too, such as potatoes. After your
Golden is on this diet several weeks, you add the potential problem
ingredients to determine what the allergy is. Some dog owners are
so relieved to have their dogs free from the allergy that they keep
them on the hypoallergenic diet.
Inhalation allergies tend to be less common than other allergies
in pets. They usually show up as a respiratory ailment (sneezing,
coughing, or running nose) but may show up in other ways. Your vet-
erinarian will have to determine the cause of the inhalation allergy.

Elbow Dysplasia (ED) and Osteochondritis Dissecans (OCD)


Elbow dysplasia is a hereditary disease in which the elbow joints are
malformed. This disease is called polygenic because several genes may
cause it.
Surgery, anti-inflammatories, and nutriceuticals are recommended
treatments for elbow dysplasia. Obviously, surgery can be expensive,
and arthritis often sets in to the joints, further complicating matters.
You should never breed a dog with elbow dysplasia.
216 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

Osteochondritis dissecans (OCD) is a condition in which the


cartilage thickens in joint areas. This thickened cartilage is more
prone to damage and may tear.
OCD may appear in several joints
Golden Glossary
or only one. If your dog has this
Polygenic A trait or
condition coming from condition, he may become limp
more than one gene pair. after exercising, suggesting an
Nutriceuticals Nutritional sup- injury. However, OCD will cause
plements intended to help miti- persistent lameness. You may feel
gate a condition or disease. the joint pop or crackle as you
examine it. Its onset is usually
between 4 and 8 months of age.
If your Golden is diagnosed with OCD, your veterinarian may
recommend that you rest him for several weeks. OCD can be very
painful, causing a cartilage flap to form over the elbow. That flap
may tear or reattach and requires surgery to have it removed.
Although OCD can be caused by trauma, when it is paired with
elbow dysplasia it is most likely due to heredity.

Epilepsy
Epilepsy is usually hereditary in dogs and quite prevalent in some
lines. Idiopathic epilepsy (epilepsy in which the specific cause is not
known) in dogs is similar to epilepsy in humans.
If your Golden is epileptic, your vet will need to perform some
tests to rule out other causes. If the seizures are frequent or become
worse, your vet usually will prescribe a medication to help control
the seizures.

Eye Disease
The Golden’s popularity has unfortunately made him susceptible
to certain hereditary eye problems including Cataracts, Central
Chapter 15: Common Golden Retriever Illnesses, Hereditary Ailments, and Emergencies 217

Progressive Retinal Atrophy (CPRA), Entropion, Ectropion, Tri-


chiasis, and Distichiasis. A veterinary ophthalmologist can determine
whether your Golden has these or other eye diseases.
Cataracts are cloudiness of the eye’s lens. The lens may have
a small dot or may become opaque, causing complete blindness.
Cataracts can be due to either hereditary or environmental reasons.
Juvenile cataracts are usually hereditary.
Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA) and Central Progressive
Retinal Atrophy (CPRA) are two degenerative eye disorders that
lead to blindness.
Entropion is a hereditary condition in which the eyelid turns
inward into the eye, causing the eyelashes and fur to rub against
the eyeball. It is obviously irritating to the dog and usually requires
surgery to correct it. Ectropion is where the lower eyelid droops,
exposing its interior. In mild cases, your veterinarian may prescribe
eye drops and antibiotic and corticosteroid ophthalmic ointment.
In severe cases, surgery may be required.
Distichiasis and Trichiasis are congenital abnormalities in eye-
lashes. With distichiasis, a dog will have two rows of eyelashes.
Trichiasis is the abnormal growth of the eyelashes, usually turning
into the eyeball.

Hip Dysplasia (HD)


Hip dysplasia is a crippling genetic disease. No amount of good
nutrition and care will stop it. It is caused by the malformation of
the hip socket. In mildly dysplastic cases, your vet may be able to
help mitigate the effects with nutriceuticals such as glucosamine,
chondroitin, and creatine and anti-inflammatories such as aspirin.
Some cases are so bad that the dog must have surgery. In extreme
cases, the dog must be euthanized.
Surgery costs thousands of dollars in most cases. This is why it’s
important to purchase your purebred from a reputable breeder.
218 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

Never breed a Golden with hip dysplasia or without an OFA rating


of GOOD or EXCELLENT hips (see Chapter 2).

Hypothyroidism
Hypothyroidism is becoming more common in Golden Retrievers.
It occurs when the dog’s thyroid produces insufficient thyroid hor-
mone. Symptoms can include lethargy, dull and dry coat, obesity or
weight gain, and a thinning haircoat. The dog may seek warmer
areas. Hypothyroidism can cause infertility in intact males and
females. It can cause aggression, too, so it’s always important to
check for hypothyroidism if your Golden shows any aggression.
Some forms of hypothyroidism may be hereditary, so it’s inadvis-
able to breed a hypothyroid dog. Your vet can diagnose hypothy-
roidism through a blood test. If your Golden has hypothyroidism,
your veterinarian may prescribe a form of thyroid hormone. OFA
has a relatively new thyroid registry. Breeders should test and regis-
ter their dogs with the OFA.

Retriever Rewards
OFA, CERF, GDC, and PennHIP all offer various genetic data-
bases for hereditary defects such as hip and elbow dyspla-
sia, eye problems, cardiac problems, thyroid problems, and even
epilepsy. If you purchase a Golden puppy, be certain that the breeder
shows you proof that your puppy’s parents have been screened.

Subvalvular Aortic Stenosis (SAS)


Aortic Stenosis and Subvalvular-Aortic Stenosis (SAS) are insidious
hereditary conditions that may show no outward sign in an appar-
ently healthy dog. The dog may simply drop over dead. AS and SAS
are caused by a narrowing of the outflow tract of the left ventricle.
In this case, the narrowing occurs below the aortic valve. The heart
Chapter 15: Common Golden Retriever Illnesses, Hereditary Ailments, and Emergencies 219

must work harder to push more blood through the narrow opening,
causing more problems.
SAS can be difficult to diagnose. The heart murmur, a common
symptom of SAS, may be difficult to detect. The dog may also have
arrhythmias. A veterinary cardiologist can diagnose SAS through
either a Doppler echocardiography or cardiac catheterization. The
prognosis for a long, healthy life is poor.

Illnesses and Injuries


No matter how careful you are, your Golden may still get sick or
injured. It’s helpful to know what to do when you see certain prob-
lems.

Bad Breath
Contrary to popular belief, dogs aren’t supposed to have bad
breath. Bad breath may indicate a more serious problem such as
an abscessed tooth or gum disease. You can avoid stinky breath
by brushing your Golden’s teeth regularly and feeding him a high-
quality dog food.
If your Golden has bad breath, bring him to the vet for a full
checkup. Your vet may want to clean his teeth at that time.

Broken Toenails
Your Golden may experience cracked or broken toenails, especially
if you allow them to grow too long. Trim the toenail and file off
any rough edges if the toenail has broken below the quick (see
Chapter 14). If the nail is bleeding, you can stop the bleeding with
styptic powder, silver nitrate, or an electric nail cauterizer available
through pet supply mail-order catalogs. You then can paint the nail
with a skin bond agent, which is available from your veterinarian or
through veterinary supply houses.
220 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

Bloat—A Life-Threatening Condition


Bloat, also called gastric torsion, gastric dilatation, or canine gastric
dilatation-volvulus (CGDV), is a life-threatening condition. It affects
many large, deep-chested breeds, including Golden Retrievers; body
structure seems to be the main determinant as to whether the dog
could bloat.
The afflicted dog’s stomach fills
No Biscuit!
with gas and fluid. It becomes more
Watch for signs of
bloat: suddenly looking fat or than just an upset stomach; the
pregnant, pacing and drooling, dog’s stomach fills so much that it
showing discomfort when sitting begins to twist on its axis. This ter-
or lying down, and retching and rible twisting damages the stomach,
attempts at vomiting without pro-
esophagus, and intestines and shuts
ducing anything. This is a life-
threatening condition—seek off blood supply to those organs.
veterinary attention immediately. The dog will go into shock and die
a painful death if untreated.
Bloat can occur up to three hours after eating. Your dog will sud-
denly look pregnant or fat. He may pace back and forth and look
uncomfortable. He may drool and attempt to vomit without success.
If your dog shows these symptoms after eating, don’t attempt to
treat him yourself! Get him to the vet as soon as possible.
The best treatment for bloat is to prevent it. Here are some tips:
≠ Feed him several smaller meals rather than one big one.
≠ Wet down your Golden’s food (don’t let it sit long) to encour-
age quick evacuation from the stomach. Tests show that food
with water poured over it leaves the stomach less than an hour
after eating.
≠ Don’t change dog foods or give snacks that cause digestive
upset.
≠ Don’t exercise your Golden after he has eaten.
Chapter 15: Common Golden Retriever Illnesses, Hereditary Ailments, and Emergencies 221

≠ Encourage slower eating. Some people have gone as far as to


put fist-size stones (too big for their dog to swallow) in their
dogs’ bowls to encourage them to slow down.
≠ Don’t allow garbage raids, counter raids, or other snacking—
intentional or unintentional.

Diarrhea and Vomiting


Changes in diet, overeating, unfamiliar water, and nervousness can
cause diarrhea, but so can parvovirus, internal parasites, rancid food,
allergies, and other serious ailments. If your Golden is dehydrated,
has a fever (more than 102°F), or has extreme or bloody diarrhea,
bring him to your vet as soon as possible.
If your Golden has mild diarrhea (soft stools—not liquid and
without mucus), does not have dehydration, and is not vomiting, you
can give him a tablespoon of a kaolin product (Kaopectate) or a bis-
muth subsalicylate product (Pepto-Bismol). Give 1 to 2 teaspoons
per 10 pounds body weight every 4 hours with Kaopectate and 1 to
2 teaspoons per 10 pounds body weight every 12 hours with Pepto
Bismol. Withhold your dog’s next meal to see whether the diarrhea
improves. Encourage your dog to drink water or an unflavored pedi-
atric electrolyte solution. If there is no diarrhea or vomiting, you can
feed him a mixture of boiled hamburger and rice at the next meal. If
your dog’s condition does not improve or becomes worse, contact
your veterinarian.
Dogs vomit for a variety of reasons. Dogs sometimes eat grass
and then vomit. Dogs also vomit due to obstructions, an enlarged
esophagus, parvovirus and other serious illnesses, allergies, and ran-
cid food. If your dog vomits more than once or twice, projectile
vomits, starts becoming dehydrated, has severe diarrhea along with
vomiting, has a fever (more than 102°F), or retches without vomit-
ing, bring him to the veterinarian immediately.
222 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

Flea Allergy Dermatitis or Flea Bite Dermatitis


Flea allergy dermatitis or flea bite dermatitis is caused by your
Golden’s allergic reaction to—you guessed it—fleas (actually, flea
saliva). Your Golden becomes itchy, and his skin becomes red and
irritated because of the fleas. Eliminate the fleas, and you eliminate
the allergy. (See Chapter 14 for advice on how to get rid of fleas.)

Foxtails
Foxtails, or grass awns, are seeds from grasslike plants. They have
a sharp, burrowing head with a tail that looks like a fox’s tail (hence
the name). These seeds have a nasty habit of getting into your
Golden’s fur and ears. With each movement, they burrow into the
Golden’s skin.
Check your Golden thor-
Retriever Rewards oughly for burrs and foxtails
Check your Golden after he’s been outside. Check
after every time he’s his ears, too.
been in a field. Foxtails or grass
awns can burrow their way into If you find a partially buried
a dog’s skin and cause danger- foxtail, use tweezers to pull it out
ous abscesses. Foxtails have
and watch for signs of infection.
been known to burrow through
skin into organs. These are Take your dog to the vet if you
nasty seeds that can do a lot of see pus, swelling, or redness
damage. around the site.

Hot Spots
Hot spots are areas of moist dermatitis (skin inflammation) that may
become infected. The symptoms are reddening skin, missing hair,
and oozing woundlike lesions. Allergy, matted fur, or some other
form of irritation frequently causes them. Shave or clip all hair
surrounding the hot spot and clean twice daily with a 10 percent
Betadine/90 percent water solution. If the hot spots are too painful,
Chapter 15: Common Golden Retriever Illnesses, Hereditary Ailments, and Emergencies 223

infected, or extensive, your vet may have to anesthetize your Golden


to shave the area and prescribe corticosteroids and antibiotics.

Lumps and Bumps on the Skin


Most lumps are benign. However, you should show any lump or
bump to your veterinarian. Lumps that are oozing, red, dark-
colored, irregular in size and shape, or swiftly growing may be
serious; show them to your vet immediately. If your female Golden
has lumps on her mammary glands, they may be cancerous mam-
mary tumors requiring surgery. A large doughy lump on the
stomach might be a hernia that your vet may have to address.
Rapidly growing lumps may be a form of abscess or infection.
Abscesses occur when foreign bodies (such as foxtails) enter the skin
or an injury closes with bacteria
inside. Abscesses are serious. Your Retriever Rewards
vet must drain the abscess and Rapidly growing
prescribe antibiotics. Do not lumps that are warm
to the touch may be abscesses.
attempt to drain the abscess your-
Have your vet look at all lumps
self; the wound may become more and bumps on your Golden.
infected.

Incontinence
Incontinence is generally a sign of a more serious problem such as
a bladder or urinary tract infection or bladder stones. Have your vet
examine your dog to determine the cause of incontinence.
Occasionally, spayed female dogs dribble and may require cor-
rective medication.
If your Golden crouches down and urinates when you yell at
him or touch him, it may be a form of submissive urination. This is
a sign that he respects your authority. Some dogs are more submis-
sive than others. Scolding or yelling at your Golden will only aggra-
vate the problem. You can stop this behavior by remaining calm and
224 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

speaking quietly. Pet your Golden under the chin and don’t
act angry. Most dogs who are overly submissive require some
gentle confidence builders such as training and other positive-
reinforcement techniques.

Pyometra—A Life-Threatening Condition for Intact Females


Pyometra is a life-threatening infection of the uterus in intact female
dogs. It usually occurs about five or six weeks after the female’s last
estrus or season. It may come on without warning. Symptoms may
be lethargy, refusal to eat, excessive thirst, vomiting, and high tem-
perature. If the cervix is open, you will see a huge amount of blood
and pus. If the cervix is closed, you may not see a discharge.
Pyometra is a serious condition. I lost a female to this disease,
and I’ve known others who have as well. No one knows precisely
what causes it, other than a hor-
mone imbalance. The usual treat-
Retriever Rewards
ment is a spay, but sometimes the
Spaying your dog
will prevent the life- female is so weak that it can still
threatening condition called kill her. Sometimes vets are able
pyometra. to treat an open pyometra with
prostaglandin and antibiotics.
This is yet another reason to spay your female Golden. If you
aren’t showing in conformation or working her in field trials, spay
your Golden.

Irritated Eyes
Occasionally, you may see redness in your Golden’s eyes, or they
might be goopy or teary. Dogs don’t cry, so any excessive drainage
is most likely due to an eye infection (conjunctivitis) or injury.
Your vet can determine what type of infection or whether
your Golden’s cornea has been scratched. He will prescribe the
Chapter 15: Common Golden Retriever Illnesses, Hereditary Ailments, and Emergencies 225

appropriate eye ointment. Do not use human eye products as they


are not made for dogs.

Ringworm
Ringworm isn’t a worm, but a fungus. Ringworm causes hair loss,
leaving round patches of scaly skin. It is contagious to humans and
other animals, so use disposable latex gloves when treating it. Use a
mixture of 90 percent water to 10 percent betadine (available from
your veterinarian) to treat the skin. Shampoos and soaps containing
iodine work well.
Your Golden can get ringworm from other animals or from the
soil. After it is in the soil, it is difficult to eradicate. Your veterinar-
ian can prescribe oral medication for chronic or widespread ring-
worm.

Scratching
Excessive scratching is a sign of a potential skin problem. Examine
the area your Golden is scratching. Is the skin irritated and red? Is
your Golden losing hair? Is his skin scaly and flaky? Does he show
signs of infestation (fleas or mites)?
There are a lot of potential problems with scratching. Your
Golden could be suffering from allergies, flea bite dermatitis, hot
spots, or even mange. If his coat is crinkly and dry, it could suggest a
potential thyroid problem such as hypothyroidism. Other problems
might be bizarre, such as zinc responsive dermatosis.
If your Golden isn’t losing hair and is just scratchy, without open
sores, perhaps it’s time for a bath. Some good medicated shampoos
for dogs help relieve scratching. Some dog owners like giving a
cooked egg or a teaspoon of Canola oil once a week to help improve
their dog’s coat.
226 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

Seizures
Seizures in dogs stem from a multitude of causes including some
serious diseases such as rabies and distemper, an imbalanced diet,
trauma to the head, brain tumors, epilepsy, hormone imbalance,
environmental causes such as
chemicals, or heatstroke. How-
Golden Glossary ever, there are also idiopathic
Idiopathic A disease seizures, meaning we really don’t
or condition whose know why the seizure occurs. Most
cause is unknown.
dogs with idiopathic seizures may
have a genetic component to them.
Two types of seizures are possible: grand mal and petit mal. With
the grand mal seizure, the dog goes into convulsive fits. He may lose
his bowel and bladder control. He may shake convulsively and whim-
per or cry out. Usually these seizures last a few seconds to less than
five minutes. When the dog comes to, he is usually disoriented.
Petit mal seizures are brief. Sometimes the dog simply blanks out
or spaces out for a few moments. Other times, he may have a sudden
facial expression such as a snarl, or he may fall over. As with a grand
mal seizure, the petit mal will leave the dog disoriented.
In rare instances, a seizure may cluster—that is, continue for
more than a few minutes. In this case, the dog may suffer brain
damage or even death if it is not immediately treated.
I have owned three dogs with epilepsy. It’s disconcerting to see
an epileptic seizure the first time. If your Golden has a seizure, don’t
panic. Take him to your vet after the seizure for a checkup to rule
out other causes. The good news is that just because your dog has a
seizure, it does not mean he will have another. Some dogs have one
seizure and never experience them again.
What causes a dog to have an idiopathic seizure? There are a
number of potential causes. Stress may bring on an epileptic seizure,
Chapter 15: Common Golden Retriever Illnesses, Hereditary Ailments, and Emergencies 227

but some dogs experience seizures only in their sleep. Some dogs
have seizures due to hormonal changes such as estrus (spaying usu-
ally helps those).
If your Golden is diagnosed with idiopathic seizures, your
vet may want to put him on a daily regimen of phenobarbital,
primadone, or potassium bromide.

Skunks
Nothing is much worse than getting skunked. But before you go
and buy out the local supermarket’s stock of tomato juice, save
your money. You’ll just get a stinky pink Golden. Purchase a good
commercial skunk-odor remover or use this do-it-yourself baking
soda/hydrogen peroxide remedy:
≠ 1 quart hydrogen peroxide
≠ 1/4 cup baking soda
≠ 1 teaspoon of shampoo or liquid soap

Wash the dog with this and rinse thoroughly. Don’t get any in
your dog’s eyes. Don’t save any of it in a container—it might
explode.

My Golden Is Pregnant—What Do I Do?


You meant to get your Golden spayed. You really did. But she got
out of the house once when she was in heat or perhaps you caught
a stray dog with her. Lately, she’s been looking a bit paunchy. You
think she’s pregnant. What are you going to do?
If you had been planning to spay your Golden, take her to the
vet right now and get her spayed. Don’t delay. A puppy’s full gesta-
tion is 63 days, which leaves not a lot of time.
228 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

If your Golden has recently been bred and she’s a show-quality


dog, you can try a mismate shot, that is, a hormonal shot to abort the
pregnancy. But this is not without risks and can cause serious prob-
lems such as pyometra or anemia. I don’t recommend it, and spaying
is a much safer and more permanent solution.
The last choice is to have your Golden carry the puppies to term.
In this case, you’ve just added to the pet overpopulation—something
you shouldn’t do. If you decide to have her carry the pups to term,
realize that there are associated risks, such as losing your Golden
during whelping. Then there’s the matter of care for both the mom
and pups, which is outside the scope of this book. You should refer to
any of the good books on breeding and caring for puppies, including
Canine Reproduction by Phyllis Holst (Alpine Publications, Inc., 1999).
Consult with your vet about care for your Golden.

Assembling a First-Aid Kit


Having a first-aid kit for your Golden Retriever is important. You can
assemble one from items that are easy to find in the drug store:
≠ An emergency veterinary hospital’s phone number
≠ Aspirin
≠ Bandage scissors
≠ Bandage tape
≠ Benadryl® antihistamine for allergic reactions
≠ Betadine solution
≠ Cortisone cream
≠ Disposable latex gloves
≠ Hydrogen peroxide
≠ Kaolin product (such as Kaopectate™)
≠ Large and small nonstick bandage pads
Chapter 15: Common Golden Retriever Illnesses, Hereditary Ailments, and Emergencies 229

≠ Local poison control center phone number


≠ Mineral oil
≠ Petroleum jelly (Vaseline™)
≠ Pressure bandages
≠ Quick muzzle
≠ Rectal thermometer (or ear thermometer for dogs)
≠ Self-adhesive wrap (VetWrap™ or Elastaplast™)
≠ Sterile gauze wrappings
≠ Sterile sponges
≠ Surgical glue or VetBond™ (available through veterinary supply
catalogues)
≠ Syrup of Ipecac™
≠ Triple antibiotic ointment
or nitrofurizone (nitrofuri-
Retriever Rewards
zone is available through
Always have your
veterinary supply catalogues) vet’s number, the
≠ Tweezers number of the local poison con-
trol center, and the nearest 24-
≠ Unflavored pediatric elec- hour emergency vet clinic
trolyte (Pedalyte™) number taped to your phone,
just in case.
≠ Your veterinarian’s phone
number, pager, and after-
hours number

Health Emergencies
As much care as you take to keep your Golden Retriever safe, emer-
gencies can and do happen. That’s why it’s important to know what
to do.
230 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

How to Muzzle Your Golden


In an emergency, you may have to muzzle your Golden. Even the
gentlest dog may bite if frightened or injured. Have a quick muzzle
(sold in pet supply stores and through mail order) available. If none
are available, you can fashion a makeshift muzzle from rope, a belt, a
scarf, or a tie. NOTE: Do not muzzle a dog that is having problems
breathing!
Start in the middle at the bottom of the dog’s muzzle. Wrap the
bandage upward, tie, and then bring it back downward under the
chin and tie. Take the two loose ends and tie them securely behind
the dog’s head.

Broken Bones
Fractures to the head, chest, or back may be life threatening. Use a
stiff board to transport the dog (slide the board under the dog), or
if you can’t find one, hold a blanket taut and lift him on that. Seek
immediate veterinary attention. If your dog has broken his leg, you
can fashion a splint from a stick, a rolled-up piece of stiff cardboard,
or even a rolled-up newspaper. Put the splint alongside the broken
leg and wrap either VetWrap™ or tape around it. Transport your
dog to the veterinarian as soon as possible.

Burns
A severe burn, in which the skin is charred or the underlying tissue
is exposed, requires immediate veterinary attention. You can treat
minor burns over a small area with ice packs or cold water. Don’t
use water on extensive burns, or you may send the dog into shock.
Aloe vera is a good treatment after the burn has blistered.
Chapter 15: Common Golden Retriever Illnesses, Hereditary Ailments, and Emergencies 231

Choking or Difficulty Breathing


Signs of choking and breathing difficulty include gagging, coughing,
gums and tongue turning pale or blue, and wheezing. Do not muz-
zle your dog, and seek immediate veterinary attention. Loosen your
dog’s collar and anything else that might restrict breathing. Check
your Golden’s throat for any object that may be caught in it. If you
see something that you can remove with tweezers, do so. Do not use
your fingers, as you can accidentally push the item further down the
throat. If the item is lodged in the throat, try pushing on the dog’s
abdomen to expel the object.
If the dog is not breathing, give him mouth-to-mouth resuscita-
tion by closing his mouth and breathing into his nose. Ask your vet-
erinarian how to correctly perform mouth-to-mouth resuscitation
and CPR.

Cuts, Injuries, and Dog Bites


You can clean minor cuts and scrapes yourself with a 10 percent
betadine/90 percent water solution. Then apply a triple antibiotic
ointment and watch for signs of infection.
For deep puncture wounds, determine how deep the puncture is.
If the object is still embedded, do not remove it (if practical); seek
immediate veterinary treatment. If the puncture is a dog bite and the
bite is not serious, you can clean the wound with a betadine and
water solution. Your veterinarian may want to prescribe antibiotics
to prevent infection. Be certain that both your dog and the biting
dog are current on their rabies vaccinations.

Electrocution
In case of electrocutions, do not touch your dog, or you may also be
electrocuted. Use a wooden broom handle or other nonconductive
232 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

item to unplug the cord or to move your dog away from the source of
the current. Treat as for shock (see “Shock,” later in this chapter) by
maintaining proper body temperature and seek emergency veterinary
treatment. If the dog is not breathing, administer mouth-to-mouth
resuscitation by closing his mouth and breathing into his nose.

Fishhooks
If your Golden has stepped on a fishhook or one has pierced her lips,
bring her to a vet. If no vet is available, you may have to muzzle your
Golden and look for where the barb is. Push the barb through the
skin if necessary to expose it and then snip it off with a pair of wire
cutters. Then remove the hook. Contact your vet; he or she may
want to prescribe antibiotics. Only your veterinarian should remove
swallowed fishhooks and fishhooks that you cannot extract.

Frostbite and Hypothermia


Signs of hypothermia include lowered body temperature, shivering,
lethargy followed by stupor, shock, unconsciousness, and finally
death. Insufficient food and dehydration can greatly affect your
Golden Retriever’s ability to keep warm. Dogs expend energy and
heat while working, and if the heat loss is too great, your Golden
may experience hypothermia.
Treatment for hypothermia is mostly common sense. Warm your
Golden slowly by wrapping him in blankets or lying next to him in
blankets. If he is conscious, offer him warm broth to drink. Seek
immediate veterinary attention.
Frostbite is where the skin is damaged as a result of cold. The
skin will turn white from frostbite. If it’s severely frostbitten, the skin
will turn black. Sometimes the affected skin will slough off, leaving a
raw sore. If the skin is white and intact, warm slowly in tepid water
(not hot—you can further damage the skin). It will be painful as the
skin warms. In frostbite with sores, wrap with an antibiotic ointment
Chapter 15: Common Golden Retriever Illnesses, Hereditary Ailments, and Emergencies 233

and gauze. With black-skin frostbite, it’s best to let a veterinarian


treat it. In all cases of frostbite, seek veterinary attention.

Insect Bites and Stings


You can treat most insect bites and stings with an over-the-counter
antihistamine that your veterinarian can recommend. If your Golden
shows any allergic reaction to bites or stings (severe swelling or dif-
ficulty breathing), seek immediate veterinary attention. This can be
a life-threatening condition known as an anaphylactic reaction.
Spider bites can be serious. The two most dangerous spiders are
the black widow and the brown recluse. The bites of both can be
fatal if left untreated. Spider bites are normally swollen and inflamed
around a bite mark and may be white or red. If you suspect a spider
has bitten your Golden, seek veterinary attention.

Overheating
Overheating can occur on warm days, but also when a dog is in a
confined area or doesn’t get enough air circulation. Overheating is
often combined with dehydration, which is dangerous alone and
even more perilous in combination.
A common scenario is leaving a dog in a parked car on a warm
day. Even with the windows cracked or rolled down, even with the
car parked in the shade, internal temperatures can quickly rise to
lethal levels.

Golden Glimmers
You can tell if your Golden is dehydrated by doing a simple skin
snap test. Gently pull up the skin at the nape of the neck and
release it. A well-hydrated dog’s skin will snap back quickly; a
severely dehydrated dog’s will “melt” back or even hold its shape.
Perform a skin snap test on your Golden to see what it looks like
when he’s healthy so that you know what is abnormal.
234 Part 4: In Sickness and in Health

Signs of overheating include excessive panting, lethargy, and


dehydration. Heatstroke, which is a serious emergency, includes a
high body temperature (greater than 103°F), extreme thirst, panting,
vomiting, watery diarrhea, difficulty breathing, weakness, and pale
gums. Without treatment, a dog with heatstroke will become coma-
tose and die.
Treat your Golden for heatstroke by bringing him into a cooler,
shady area that has a breeze or good air circulation. Remove collars
or anything that might constrict his breathing. Pour cool water (not
ice water!) over his head and body—if you can, submerge his body
in a cool bath.
Take your dog’s temperature frequently, if you can, until it
reaches 103°F and remove him from the bath. (He will continue to
cool down, but this is to prevent
No Biscuit! him from becoming hypothermic;
When treating heat- the final temperature you’re look-
stroke, never use ice water. Ice ing for is between 100 and 101°F.)
water can cause the skin and If he’s conscious, give him an un-
blood vessels to close, thereby
retaining the heat and aggravat- flavored pediatric electrolyte solu-
ing the condition. tion or water in small sips. Seek
veterinary attention.

Poisoning
Contact your veterinarian or local poison control center and have
the substance or chemical available so you can properly describe
it. Follow the veterinarian or poison control center’s instructions.
Do not induce vomiting unless told to do so. Some acids, alkalis,
and other substances can harm your dog more if they are vomited,
especially if they get into the lungs.
Chapter 15: Common Golden Retriever Illnesses, Hereditary Ailments, and Emergencies 235

Shock
Symptoms of shock include pale gums, rapid and weak pulse, shallow
breathing, weakness, and unresponsiveness. In situations of shock,
you should maintain body temperature, which means blankets if cold
and cooling if hot. Seek veterinary attention immediately.

The Least You Need to Know


≠ Bloat is a life-threatening condition in which the dog’s stomach
fills with gas and fluid. Seek immediate veterinary attention.
≠ Allergies may be contact, inhalation, or dietary. If you suspect
that your Golden is allergic to something in his diet, talk with
your vet. He or she can prescribe a hypoallergenic diet.
≠ Frequent vomiting, projectile vomiting, or vomiting accompa-
nying diarrhea requires veterinary attention. Diarrhea with
vomiting, that lasts more than one day, accompanying a high
fever, with blood or mucus in the stool, or with dehydration
requires veterinary attention.
≠ Pyometra is a life-threatening illness to intact female dogs.
Spay your female to prevent this disease.
≠ Seizures can have causes or may be idiopathic. Have your vet
examine your dog to determine the cause (if possible) and treat-
ment.
≠ Itchy, scratchy skin may have several causes including ring-
worm, mange, fleas, or hot spots.
≠ Spaying your Golden is the safest way to prevent an unwanted
pregnancy.
≠ Have a first-aid kit handy for emergencies for your Golden
Retriever.
≠ Most emergencies require veterinary attention.
Part

5 The Golden Life—


Living with a Golden
Nowadays, Golden owners have more questions than ever before
when it comes to issues surrounding their Golden Retrievers. What
do you do when there’s a disaster? What’s the best way to travel with
a dog? Now that Goldens are living longer, how do you care for a
senior dog?
Part 5 covers everything from natural disasters to tattooing your
pet. We also cover the do’s and don’ts of traveling with your
Golden. Last, we’ll cover your Golden’s senior years—what diseases
you might see and how to make your Golden more comfortable.
16
Chapter

Disaster Planning
In This Chapter
≠ How to plan for a disaster
≠ What identification options are available for your Golden
Retriever
≠ What to do if your Golden gets lost

Most of us go through life never expecting emergencies. How-


ever, disasters do strike and often when we least expect them.
Tornadoes, floods, forest fires, earthquakes, and hurricanes are just
some of the natural disasters we may face. And then, there are not-
so-natural disasters that, sadly, pet owners now have to consider—
terrorist attacks.
Chances are your Golden is like family to you. You would do
anything to save him should there be a disaster. In this chapter, we’ll
discuss disaster preparedness and how to plan for the unthinkable.
We’ll also talk about identification and what to do to retrieve your
lost Golden.
240 Part 5: The Golden Life—Living with a Golden

Do You Know What to Do If a


Disaster Strikes?
When preparing for a disaster, you should think about what to do to
ensure the safety of you and your family. This, of course, includes
your Golden Retriever. Make a plan now before disaster strikes—
otherwise, you’ll be wasting precious time trying to react.

Preparing for a Disaster


In some instances, like hurricanes and floods, you may have hours or
even days to prepare. In sudden disasters, such as tornadoes, fires, or
man-made disasters, you may have very little time—sometimes no
time, if you live close to the disaster.
What will help make sense out
Retriever Rewards of chaos is a disaster preparedness
Contact kennels, kit. Because this is The Complete
humane societies, Idiot’s Guide to Golden Retrievers
shelters, and vets outside of your and not Disaster Preparedness, I’m
area to find out whether they
have space to take dogs on an
covering those issues pertaining to
extended basis if a disaster pets and not people.
strikes.
When trying to figure out
what to do in a disaster, you need
to know the following:
Retriever Rewards
The American Red ≠ How you’re going to get out
Cross has disaster with your pets.
preparedness information for
≠ Where you’re going to stay.
both people and animals. You
can visit their website at www. ≠ What you’re going to bring
redcross.org.
with you.
Chapter 16: Disaster Planning 241

I’m Moving Out


The first thing you should consider is how you’re going to get out
with your pets. In tornadoes and hurricanes, your home might be
the safest place if you have a basement. (If you live in a mobile
home, you should leave, take your pets with you, and seek adequate
shelter.) In forest fires, your home can quickly become a death trap.
Know the roads you can safely use to get out of the area.
What happens if disaster strikes when you’re not at home or
can’t get home in time? Before that ever happens, make a plan with
a pet-owning neighbor for rescuing your pets (and offer to do the
same for hers). She’ll probably need to know where a spare key is or
have a key to your home, so be sure she’s someone you trust. Plan a
rendezvous where you can meet up with her so you can get your
Golden and other pets back.
Sometimes, the disaster is so severe and the area so dangerous
that emergency personnel won’t let you return home. What do you
do then? Sometimes animal control can enter disaster areas where
civilians can’t, or sometimes emergency personnel will rescue pets.

Retriever Rewards
One way to try to have your Golden rescued during a disas-
ter is to put a rescue alert sticker in your windows or near
your front door. These stickers alert emergency personnel that your
Golden is inside and they should rescue him. You can obtain free
rescue alert stickers from the ASPCA by going to http://www.aspca.
org/site/PageServer?pagename=emergency and looking for the
sticker link or going to http://tinyurl.com/wx6v. You can also pur-
chase them from various pet suppliers.

Where to Stay
Where you stay is vitally important in a disaster. Most pet owners
assume that family or friends outside of the disaster area will take
you, but don’t assume! Ask now and make arrangements. You may
242 Part 5: The Golden Life—Living with a Golden

be surprised to learn that you or your Golden aren’t necessarily wel-


come. Ask now before the emergency occurs.
Have a list of potential hotels and motels that accept dogs in a
10-mile, 25-mile, and 50-mile radius. Be sure to have several on the
list so that if one fills up or no longer accepts dogs, you’ll have
another place to go. Update the list at least once a year so you aren’t
left with nowhere to go.
The American Red Cross will not allow dogs into their emer-
gency shelters, except service dogs, so don’t plan on bringing your
Golden to a shelter with you. If you do end up in a shelter, you’ll
have to find other places to put your Golden. If you can find a
boarding kennel outside of the disaster area, so much the better,
but be aware that boarding kennels will fill up fast.
If you have no alternative, see whether an animal shelter can
take your dog temporarily. I don’t recommend this, for three rea-
sons. First, the animal shelters are likely to be overcrowded with
strays and other people’s pets in the event of a disaster. Second, you
don’t know what diseases your Golden will be exposed to. Third,
there is a small chance of your Golden getting mixed up with the
strays and adopted. But if you really have no choice, the shelter is
better than nothing.

Your Disaster Kit


Everyone who has a pet should have a disaster kit ready to go in case
of an emergency. You should have the following items in your kit:
≠ Your Golden’s records (papers, microchip records, and so on),
health records, and vaccination records.
≠ Enough dog food and drinkable water for your Golden
Retriever for at least three days.
≠ A recent photo of your Golden Retriever in case he gets lost.
≠ Food and water bowls.
Chapter 16: Disaster Planning 243

≠ Your Golden’s crate, bed, and toys.


≠ Phone numbers of hotels, motels, veterinarians, and shelters
that you can use outside of the disaster area.
≠ Your Golden’s first-aid kit.
≠ Your Golden’s leash and collar.
≠ Your Golden’s medicine.

You should have your Golden’s emergency kit in a place where


it’s easy to grab and go. Let your neighbor know where the emer-
gency kit is in case she has to evacuate your Golden for you.

ID, Please
All dogs should have two forms of ID: Permanent and tags. In this
section, we look at both forms of ID and what are the pros and cons
of each.

Tags
If you don’t have a tag on your Golden Retriever, put one on now!
Anyone at a shelter can tell you about a dog who appeared at their
shelter with a collar and no tags—and no means of identifying the
dog. There’s really no excuse for your Golden to have no tags or
tags so old that a person can’t read them. Tags are cheap and easy
to get. Some Internet pet supply sites offer tags for free, and most
pet supply stores have tag machines that will engrave a tag with
whatever you like on them. They cost around $4 to $6, unless
you get the gold-plated variety. You can leave the store with your
Golden’s kibble and a brand new tag to put on his collar.
Keep all information updated on the tag. If you move or if you’re
traveling, purchase a tag with that information and the traveling
dates listed. And periodically inspect the tag for wear—is it legible?
244 Part 5: The Golden Life—Living with a Golden

Microchips and Tattoos


What if your Golden loses his collar or (worse yet) someone takes
his collar off? How can you prove that your Golden is yours? One
vet I know found two dogs of the same breed, same sex, and roughly
the same age, who looked identical and had lost their collars. Both
owners had a hard time telling the dogs apart because both dogs
were friendly. Microchips or tattoos would have solved this problem.

Golden Glimmers
The following is a list of animal registries that allow you to register a
tattooed or microchipped pet.
AKC Companion Animal Recovery
5580 Centerview Drive, Suite 250
Raleigh, NC 27606-3389
1-800-252-7894
Website: www.akccar.org
National Dog Registry
Box 116
Woodstock, NY 12498
1-800-637-3647
Website: www.natldogregistry.com
Tattoo-A-Pet
6571 S.W. 20th Court
Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33317
1-800-828-8667
Website: www.tattoo-a-pet.com

Microchips and tattoos are permanent forms of identification.


With microchips, a small chip, about the size of a grain of rice and
encased in glass, is implanted between the dog’s shoulder blades. It
takes seconds to implant, and the chip is good for life. The micro-
chip is read by holding a scanner over the area. The scanner reads
the code, and the person scanning it must match the code up to a
database. In other words, the number on the microchip must be
Chapter 16: Disaster Planning 245

registered with a national database, or the microchip is useless. If


you move, you’ll have to contact the national registry to give them
your new address.
The downside to microchips is that there is no single standard
for the technology. Different brands of microchips require different
scanners, and although some scanners can read more than one
microchip, some can’t. You also must have a microchip scanner to be
able to read the microchip; most
people don’t have one and aren’t Golden Glimmers
aware that microchip technology You may have heard that
exists. Most shelters and veterinari- microchips can move around
ans do have scanners that read or travel from the implant
site. The truth is that older
multiple chips, but there are still a
microchips did travel, but
few out there that are nonstandard. the new ones have been
Finally, microchips can be pricey. redesigned so that they
The cost of the chip and registration stay put.
fees can be $50 or more.
A cheaper alternative to microchips is tattoos. Tattoos should be
given by a professional pet tattooist (yes, they really exist). A good
pet tattooist will only give a dog a tattoo on the inside of the thigh
because it’s harder to remove than an ear tattoo (dog thieves will cut
an ear off).
There are several downsides to tattoos. One, like microchips,
you need to look to see that they exist. (Most people don’t make a
habit of looking beneath a dog’s belly and most don’t know about
tattoos.) If your Golden is really hairy, his leg fur will cover up his
tattoo, making it impossible to see.
(You’ll have to keep that area No Biscuit!
shaved.) You’ll have to think up an Tattoos should be
original number for the tattoo— put only in your Golden’s inside
most people use their Social Security thigh and not in the ear. Dog
number. If you sell or give away thieves have been known to lop
off an ear to remove the tattoos.
your Golden, you’ll be giving out
your Social Security number as well.
246 Part 5: The Golden Life—Living with a Golden

Dogs hate getting tattoos. It requires them to be on their back


and hear a noisy tattoo pen as the tattooist writes on the dog’s inside
thigh. It doesn’t hurt, but it’s very disconcerting. One last note is
that a tattoo isn’t useful unless it’s tied to a national database. Yes,
there are stories of shelters receiving tattooed dogs whose owners
didn’t bother to register them; such shelters have no idea who the
dog belongs to. Tattooing costs $5 or more plus registration fees.

Lost Dog
Even if you’re a conscientious pet owner, your Golden might acci-
dentally get out. All it takes is a meter reader to leave a gate open or
someone to forget to close the door. You turn your back, and sud-
denly, your dog is gone.
Don’t panic. It’s a terrible feel-
No Biscuit! ing to know that your beloved
If your Golden gets Golden is out there somewhere,
loose, you might be angry at lost, but if you keep your head, you
him. Even if you are, don’t pun-
can probably get him back safely.
ish him! Your Golden will learn
that you’re not someone he Many dogs return home after a
wants to come to because he’ll romp around, hungry and tired. If
get punished. he does come home, give him praise
and snacks. He came home, and you
should always reward him for that.
No Biscuit!
Some unscrupulous Most dogs don’t go far, so you
people call owners with the may have luck scouring the neigh-
news that their lost dogs have borhood and knocking on doors.
been found in another town and
ask for money to ship them. If
Put up signs with a recent photo of
you receive a call like this, tell your Golden and a detailed descrip-
the person to take the dog to a tion. Contact area shelters and give
veterinarian or a shelter of your them a complete description of your
choosing and then you can Golden in case someone finds and
make shipping arrangements
with the vet or shelter. drops your Golden off. Even if they
tell you that they don’t have your
Chapter 16: Disaster Planning 247

Golden, you should probably drop Golden Glimmers


by the shelter anyway in case he
The USDA has a website
was overlooked. Contact local
where you can post your
vets, too—sometimes people drop missing pet for free: www.
lost dogs off at the nearest veteri- missingpet.net.
narian.
Search the found ads in the local newspaper and put in a lost ad.
When identifying your Golden in an ad, be sure to give as much
information as you can to visually identify him. Although Goldens
are popular, some people still may not recognize the breed, so
include a description such as:
Lost two-year-old neutered male Golden Retriever (red-
gold, medium hair) on 4/4/05 in the Centennial area. Blue
collar/tags. Microchipped. Answers to Rusty. Reward.

The Least You Need to Know


≠ As a Golden Retriever owner, you should be prepared for
disasters, whether natural or man-made.
≠ Have an emergency evacuation plan, a place to stay, and a
way to care for your Golden should a disaster arise.
≠ Have both tags and a permanent form of ID on your Golden
in case he gets lost.
≠ When identifying your Golden in an ad, be sure to give as
much information as you can to visually identify him.
Chapter

17
On the Road Again—
Traveling with Your Golden
In This Chapter
≠ Traveling by car and plane
≠ Boarding your Golden Retriever
≠ Hiring a pet sitter
≠ What to do if your Golden gets lost

In this chapter, we look at traveling with your Golden and how to


make it a safe and pleasant experience for both of you. We’ll look at
traveling by car and by air and what you must do to prepare for such
travel. We’ll also look at how to find lodgings that accept pets.
If your Golden Retriever doesn’t do well traveling, we’ll look at
other options, too. Boarding and pet sitting are two that we’ll talk about.

Should You Travel with Your Golden?


Depending on where you go, your Golden Retriever may accompany
you in your travels. But before you pull out the roadmaps and start
250 Part 5: The Golden Life—Living with a Golden

planning, ask yourself if this is a wise thing to do. Will the place you
intend to travel to have lots of things for you and your Golden to
do? Or will you have no time to spend with your Golden because
you’ll be stuck in business meetings or perhaps playing the casinos,
where dogs aren’t allowed?
Another thing to consider is
No Biscuit!
your Golden’s manners. Is he well
Many national
parks and even some national trained, housebroken, and well
forests prohibit dogs. Contact mannered in the car? If your
the National Park Service or the Golden doesn’t have rudimentary
National Forest Service to find obedience training, perhaps you
out the rules and regulations
should consider leaving him at
regarding dogs at the park or
forest you intend to visit. home with a pet sitter or boarding
him at a kennel.
Traveling presents its own set of problems. There is the real
concern of having your Golden get loose and run away. In an unfa-
miliar area, your Golden can easily become lost. You must always
think ahead and plan your trip—many hotels and motels do not
accept dogs, and those that do often require a damage deposit or
extra fee. Your Golden may become noisy in unfamiliar surround-
ings and may whine or cry if left alone. You may be paying for room
service or choosing fast food instead of restaurants more often.
You should consider traveling with your Golden if …
≠ The destination spot is a good one for dogs. This would
include places where you can hike and camp (that allow dogs)
and exercise your dog.
≠ The hotels or motels on your route accept dogs, or you are
traveling by RV and the RV sites accept dogs.
≠ You do not have to leave your dog in a parked car for very
long.
≠ You have time to spend with your Golden on the trip.
Chapter 17: On the Road Again—Traveling with Your Golden 251

≠ Your Golden loves to travel.


≠ The airline flight (if you are flying) is nonstop.

You should consider boarding your pet if …


≠ The destination does not have facilities for your dog.
≠ You will not have time to spend with your Golden.
≠ Your Golden hates to travel.
≠ Your Golden is not obedience trained.
≠ You do not want the inconvenience of taking care of your pet
while traveling.
≠ You are traveling internationally or overseas.
≠ You have many stops or layovers (if flying).

Don’t head off on your adventure just yet. Even though your
Golden is well-mannered and the place you’re going to is fun for
pets, you have to plan your trip. Where are you going to stay? What
are you going to bring? What will you do when there’s an emergency
or when your best-laid plans go awry?
Start by planning out your trip in detail—where you’ll be staying
and alternatives in case something unexpected happens. Consider
what you need bring with you. Your Golden also will need you to do
his packing and planning.
Golden Glimmers
The following is a checklist
for things you need to plan before Water from an unfamiliar
setting out on any adventure with locale sometimes causes stom-
your Golden: ach upsets in dogs. If you’re
driving and you have the
≠ Find accommodations in room, pack enough water
advance for both you and from home. Otherwise, you
can try giving your Golden
your Golden at every place
bottled water.
you’ll be stopping.
252 Part 5: The Golden Life—Living with a Golden

≠ Pack a travel bag for your Golden.


≠ Obtain a list of emergency vet and shelter phone numbers in
places you’ll be visiting or driving through.
≠ Obtain a health certificate for your Golden Retriever less than
10 days before leaving.
≠ Plan your travel stops. Choose alternative stops in case some
look dangerous.
≠ Get ID tags made for your dog’s collar that have the dates,
addresses, and phone numbers of the places you’ll be staying
on your trip. See Chapter 16 for more about ID.
≠ Find out whether there is a doggie day care or kennel facilities
where you’re staying for times when you can’t watch your
Golden.
≠ Get the car tuned up for traveling.
≠ Get all your paperwork together (health certificates, vaccina-
tion records, identification papers, and so on). © Joe Johnson

Don’t allow your Golden to drink from unknown water sources.


This is Sampson and Brett Eudaly.
Chapter 17: On the Road Again—Traveling with Your Golden 253

Your Golden’s Travel Bag


Just as you would pack your suitcase, you need to pack for your
Golden Retriever. (It’s tough for him to pack, since he doesn’t have
opposable thumbs.) Buy a duffle bag or a gym bag and stash the fol-
lowing items in it:
≠ Bags for picking up pet waste.
≠ Enough food and water for your trip, plus two more days.
≠ Health certificate.
≠ Leash and an extra one.
≠ Paper towels and plastic bags.
≠ Pet first-aid kit.
≠ Portable cooling fan (battery powered).
≠ Spot cleaner (enzymatic cleaner).
≠ Treats.
≠ Vaccination certificates.
≠ Your Golden Retriever’s medication.
≠ Your Golden Retriever’s bowls.

Retriever Rewards
Before going anywhere with your Golden, you’ll want to get
his health certificate less than 10 days before you leave.
You’ll need a health certificate when you travel via plane and if you
go out of the country. When you visit your veterinarian, make sure
your Golden is up-to-date on all his vaccinations. Also, ask your veteri-
narian whether your Golden needs any other vaccinations or heart-
worm protection. This is important whether you’re visiting someplace
that has heartworm year-round, such as the Deep South, or if you’re in
an area where heartworm isn’t prevalent.
254 Part 5: The Golden Life—Living with a Golden

The travel bag needs to stay


Retriever Rewards with you while you travel with your
When packing your Golden. Put the most important
Golden’s meals, try
putting individual meals in sepa- items, such as vaccination records,
rate zip-closure type bags so health certificate, and medications,
that you only have to pull out in a special waterproof bag you can
one small bag to feed and don’t take with you. If you’re traveling
have to measure.
by plane, you can bring that in the
cabin with your carry-on items.

Car Travel
If your Golden is used to traveling to fun places and doing fun
things, then he should have no problems with a road trip or two.
However, some dogs just can’t tolerate a car ride either because of
behavioral issues or carsickness. If this is the case, you’re better off
leaving your Golden home with a pet sitter or boarding him. But
occasionally you can’t do that, especially if you’re traveling cross-
country to a new home. In this case, talk with your vet about a tran-
quilizer or sedative so that your Golden can sleep most of the time
in his crate while you drive.
Before you go on any road trip, have your vehicle serviced.
Although this doesn’t seem like advice you would find in a pet book,
it is important for your Golden as well as for you. There’s nothing
worse than having a major breakdown in the middle of nowhere
with a pet relying on you to get you both to safety. Make certain
that your brakes, air conditioner, heater, windshield wipers, tires,
automatic steering, engine, and transmission are all in good working
order. Have the engine tuned up, and the fluids changed. Make sure
all fluids are topped off before you leave.
It might be worthwhile to purchase a roadside assistance plan.
AAA offers a good one, but others are available. Just be sure the
roadside assistance works where you’re traveling and everywhere in
between.
Chapter 17: On the Road Again—Traveling with Your Golden 255

Consider purchasing a cell phone. If you’re not willing to sign


up for a monthly service plan, you can get a pre-paid plan. Again,
just be sure the cell phone has coverage where you’ll be traveling.
You should plan on having your Golden Retriever ride in his
crate or wear a seat-harness designed for dogs. This does two things:
1. It keeps your Golden from getting underfoot.
2. It keeps your Golden safer in an accident.

The car poses many dangers to your Golden. Although you’ve


probably heard the warning many times, it bears repeating: Never
leave your Golden in your car on a warm day, even with the win-
dows rolled down. Temperatures can soar inside a car in the sun-
shine in minutes, even if the day
is only mildly warm. Dogs have No Biscuit!
died in closed cars, in less than Never allow your
an hour. Most often, heat prostra- Golden to ride in the back of an
open pickup truck. Dogs have
tion occurs when the owners fallen out while riding.
thought they were going to be
gone only a minute or two.
© Carolyn Risdon

Temperatures can rise in cars even with the windows down.


This is Nala and Rico.
256 Part 5: The Golden Life—Living with a Golden

You must also be careful while driving your car. Your Golden
can overheat even with the air conditioning running. If he’s in the
sun and has no airflow, his crate can quickly heat up. Check on your
Golden Retriever frequently if you use a crate, especially in the sum-
mertime. Be sure that your Golden is cool, and there is sufficient
airflow through the crate to avoid the dangers of overheating.
One useful device is a portable fan that runs on batteries. These
are great to clip onto your dog’s crate and will help keep her cool in
hot weather.
Cold weather can be dangerous too. If your Golden is cold in
the wintertime, there are doggie sweaters to fit even his size. (Hint:
There are sweaters in plain colors or macho patterns.) Be aware that
places with snow and ice are likely
to use chemical deicers that may
Retriever Rewards
be caustic to your Golden’s paws.
Fill 2-liter pop bottles
with water and freeze You can either purchase booties
them. Put them in your Golden’s for your Golden Retriever from
crate during hot weather to keep pet supply catalogues or be certain
him cool. When the ice melts, to wash off his paws when he
you have cool water for your
Golden to drink.
comes inside.
Plan no more than four hours
between stops (more frequently if
Retriever Rewards your dog is elderly or a puppy).
There are portable Rest stops frequently have places
water jugs and to exercise your dog, but do so
dishes for traveling. Some manu-
only on leash. Many dogs who are
facturers of backpacking equip-
ment also make portable dog normally reliable off-leash may not
water bowls of waterproof nylon be in unfamiliar surroundings. Be
that fold flat when not in use. a responsible owner and pick up
after your dog when he defecates.
Chapter 17: On the Road Again—Traveling with Your Golden 257

Air Travel
The friendly skies are not so friendly when it comes to dogs. Regu-
lations are constantly changing, so be certain to contact the airline
well ahead of purchasing your tickets to find out the airline’s (and
the FAA’s) latest rules and regulations regarding transporting dogs.
Some airlines will not transport dogs at all, and others may have
size or temperature restrictions.
Assuming you can fly with your Golden Retriever, arrive several
hours ahead of your flight to get through security and get your
Golden ready for loading onto the airplane. Some security proce-
dures require that you take your Golden out of his crate while secu-
rity inspects the crate. In this case, you must have a leash available.
The airline may require food and water dishes; if your dog chews
plastic (many do!) you can clip a
small stainless steel bucket (avail- No Biscuit!
able through pet supply cata- Taking plane flights
logues) with a double snap to the with transfers and layovers can
inside of the crate as a water bowl. be disastrous. Your dog might
Prepackage all dog food and tape end up on a different flight if
there’s a transfer, and there have
that to the top of the crate.
been stories about dogs left on
You should also have a package the ramp in the sun during the
taped to the crate with all paper- layovers.
work, stating where your dog is
going, your home address and
phone number, your cell number, Retriever Rewards
any emergency numbers, and any Airline and FAA regu-
specific instructions in case you lations are constantly
changing. Contact the airline
get separated from him. Include
before you make your reserva-
copies of all health records and tions to find out what the latest
vaccinations. Write a message to travel restrictions are.
the baggage handlers to let them
258 Part 5: The Golden Life—Living with a Golden

know your Golden’s name, his (and your) destination, whether he’s
been fed and had water, and whether he is friendly or not.

Accommodations
Wherever you decide to stay, be certain to choose a place that not
only allows dogs but allows dogs as big as Goldens. It’s strange, but
many hotels and motels that allow pets allow only pets smaller than
a certain size (as though a smaller pet would be less destructive?).
Also, hotels and motels frequently change management, and those
that once allowed pets sometimes change to a “no pets” policy.
How do you find a place to stay with your pet? One way is to
get the national listings of several hotel chains and keep them handy.
Another is to use a Travel Club’s information (like AAA, which lists
whether or not they accept pets). Several excellent books list places
to stay with your pet. One chain, Motel 6, usually allows pets and
is a standby if you can’t find a pet-friendly hotel in the area. Camp-
grounds such as those run by KOA allow pets, but always check with
the campground before showing up with your Golden.

Golden Glimmers
Did you know that there are pet spas? Your Golden can have a fun
vacation while you’re on your trip. You can look for such facilities in
the telephone directory or ask a friend or dog trainer whether they
know of any. Hotels that accept dogs may have their own spas or
know about ones nearby. Some places will also train your Golden
while you’re on vacation. These places usually cost more, but they’re
less stressful for the dog than a standard boarding kennel.

Never try to sneak your Golden Retriever into a place that


doesn’t allow pets. Motel owners are pretty savvy, and you might
find yourself with an extra bill tacked onto your room charge, or you
might even get evicted, which is not something you want to happen
on a vacation.
Chapter 17: On the Road Again—Traveling with Your Golden 259

Regardless of where you go, always pick up after your Golden,


keep him quiet, and treat the hotel or motel as though you were
staying with friends. Don’t leave your Golden Retriever loose in the
room while you go eat, or you’re likely to find a trashed room.
While you’re on the road, you’re an ambassador for dogs. If you’re a
slob and your Golden is noisy or destructive, it’s unlikely the hotel
will allow pets there again.
Never bathe your Golden in the hotel’s tub (yes, they will know)
and never allow your Golden to sleep on the bed with you unless
you bring an extra sheet to lay across where your Golden will sleep.
If you are planning to go to a place where you cannot bring your
Golden, ask the hotel whether there is boarding or doggie day care
near the hotel. Some facilities have on-site kennels. Ask ahead of
time and plan accordingly.

Golden Glimmers
Some amusements parks, like Disneyland and Disneyworld, have
kennels where you can board your Golden while you’re enjoying
the park. For $10 a day, your Golden Retriever will get food and
water, and the staff watch him. In case of an emergency, such as
your dog getting sick, the staff will contact you. You’ll have to come
back and walk your dog so that he can relieve himself. They have
no overnight boarding, so you’ll have to stay in a place that allows
pets.

Boarding Kennels
If you are going on a vacation that is not conducive to taking your
Golden Retriever, or if your Golden does not travel well, you may
want to consider boarding your dog. You can find different types of
boarding facilities:
≠ Veterinary boarding facilities—These facilities are usually run
adjacent to the veterinary practice. The vet is on-call 24 hours
a day.
260 Part 5: The Golden Life—Living with a Golden

≠ Doggie day care or pet spas—These are usually associated with


training schools, but may be anywhere. Dogs are usually played
with and given exercise. Depending on the size of the kennel,
your dog may see the same people each day.
≠ Boarding kennel—A standard boarding kennel. They keep dogs
in pens and may or may not provide individual attention.
≠ Training facilities boarding kennel—Usually associated with a
trainer or training facilities. Trainers may—at an additional
cost—socialize or train your Golden while you are gone.

Costs for boarding facilities vary widely depending on the serv-


ices offered. Some, for a fee, will perform on-site grooming or exit
baths before you pick up your Golden. Some provide training,
games, snack breaks, and socialization time.
Ask your vet, trainer, or other dog owners whom they recom-
mend to board dogs. Contact the American Boarding Kennel
Association at (719) 591-1113 for kennels in your area if you have
no other recommendations. Call each kennel and ask the following
questions to help narrow your search:
≠ What are the hours I can come by and drop off or pick up my
pet?
≠ What services do you provide? How much are your services?
≠ Is there supervised exercise or play time?
≠ Is there someone on-site at all times?
≠ How much do you charge per dog per day? Do you offer a
discount for multiple dogs?
≠ Do you have an on-call vet?
≠ Who do you contact in emergencies?
≠ Do you have grooming available?
≠ Can I (the owner) provide my dog’s own food?
Chapter 17: On the Road Again—Traveling with Your Golden 261

≠ What disinfectants do you use and how often do you clean the
kennels?
≠ Do you provide indoor-outdoor, strictly indoor, or strictly out-
door runs?
≠ What vaccinations do you require and how recent do they need
to be?

After you have found a few kennels in your area that fit your cri-
teria, make an appointment with them for an inspection. If the staff
is reluctant to allow you to tour the entire facility, you should con-
sider another kennel.
Contact the boarding facility well ahead of time. Most good
boarding facilities fill up quickly—during peak times, small facilities,
and even larger ones, may be full weeks or months in advance. If
you own multiple dogs, this may present a special challenge if the
facility is small.

Pet Sitters
If you have multiple dogs or if your Golden Retriever does not do
well in a boarding kennel, consider hiring a pet sitter. All pet sitters
will come to your house and feed and water your dog as well as walk
and exercise him. Some will bring in the mail and newspapers, water
plants, feed other pets, and make
the home look lived-in while you
Retriever Rewards
are gone. A pet sitter can be any-
Find someone who is
one from a bonded and insured bonded and insured
service to the kid next door. to pet sit. After all, you’re letting
Whomever you choose as a pet this stranger have the keys to
sitter, remember that you are giv- your house.
ing them full run of your house.
Ask your vet, dog trainer, and other pet-owning friends who
does pet sitting in your area. Quite often vets and trainers know
262 Part 5: The Golden Life—Living with a Golden

someone who is looking to add to their income through pet sitting.


Some may even be trainers or vet techs! You can contact the Na-
tional Association of Professional Pet Sitters at 1-800-286-PETS or
Pet Sitters International at 336-983-9222 for a list of professional pet
sitters. Be certain any professional pet sitter is bonded, licensed, and
insured, and ask for references and a copy of their contract.
Once you settle on someone, have him or her come over and
meet your Golden Retriever. Have them walk and play with your
Golden. The interaction is important—you want someone your
Golden likes, and you want someone who is not afraid of larger dogs.
What about relatives, neighbors, and friends? Would they make
good pet sitters? It depends. If the person you have in mind is dog-
savvy and knows how to take care of your Golden Retriever, then by
all means, have them be your pet sitter. However, friends and rela-
tives, no matter how well intentioned they may be, may not be smart
when it comes to dogs. You can come home to a trashed house
because your relative thought that keeping your Golden crated or
confined would be cruel. Your
No Biscuit! friend might let your Golden
Unless your friends, Retriever off the leash, thinking he
neighbors, or relatives are dog- would come back. There are many
savvy, it’s best to have a profes-
reasons to use friends and relatives,
sional pet sitter take care of your
Golden. A professional pet sitter and twice as many not to. Even if
will follow your instructions— you make yourself clear, and leave
something a friend or relative written instructions, and insist that
may not do. they follow them, sometimes they
will do the opposite.
Regardless of whom you use as a pet sitter, always leave your vet’s
phone number and emergency number handy. Post an itinerary of
your trip with numbers where they can contact you, should a prob-
lem arise. Write out instructions for care clearly. If your Golden
Retriever requires medication, put the information on the instruction
sheet. Then, take a big permanent marker and mark the precise
Chapter 17: On the Road Again—Traveling with Your Golden 263

dosage on each pill bottle. If you have multiple dogs, be certain to


put the correct dog’s name on the bottle as well.

Retriever Rewards
Before you leave on a trip, be certain that your Golden
Retriever has two forms of ID—tags and a permanent form,
either microchip or tattoos. Tags, because not everyone knows to look
for permanent ID; permanent ID, because your Golden may lose his
collar and tags. See Chapter 16 on ID.

The Least You Need to Know


≠ Traveling by car requires extra care in warm weather because a
dog can quickly overheat in a car.
≠ Get health certificates within 10 days of the flight before trav-
eling with your Golden by air.
≠ Airline and FAA regulations are constantly changing when it
comes to dogs—contact the airlines for the latest information.
≠ Choose a hotel or motel that allows dogs. Don’t try to sneak in
your Golden.
≠ There are various types of boarding kennels. Do your home-
work up front to find the best kennel for your Golden.
≠ Choose a bonded and insured pet sitter. Contact the National
Association of Professional Pet Sitters or Pet Sitters Inter-
national for listings of pet sitters.
18
Chapter

The Golden Years


In This Chapter
≠ Learn how to keep your Golden active and healthy through a
long life
≠ Learn how to keep your Golden comfortable
≠ Learn about old-age diseases
≠ Determine whether you should get another dog
≠ Learn about euthanasia—a humane choice

Someday you’ll notice some graying around your dog’s muzzle,


or perhaps he’s a little stiff when he gets up in the morning. Some-
day you’ll wake up and your Golden will be old.
This isn’t a time for sadness; it’s a time to enjoy each other.
Dogs can and do live healthy and physically active lives over the age
of 10. Part is due to genetics, but part is due to medical care, diet,
and being physically active. You can’t change genetics, but you can
make a crucial difference in your Golden’s health and longevity.
In this chapter, I focus on the old dog. Yes, he’s more susceptible
to cancers and tumors, but he’s also more fun to be around. Gone
266 Part 5: The Golden Life—Living with a Golden

are the difficult puppy days, and now you can enjoy your best friend
with a minimum of fuss. I’ll cover how to make your Golden more
comfortable and whether or not you should bring a new dog into his
life at this time. I’ll also cover the eventuality of euthanasia and how
to know when it’s your Golden’s time to say good-bye.

Golden Glimmers
When is a Golden old? It depends. Just as some people don’t seem
old even when they’re in their seventies, some Goldens don’t seem old
at an age when others are. Good genetics and a lifetime of exercise,
good nutrition, and medical care can make the difference between a
10-year-old dog who seems old and one who still acts young.
Many pet books place seniors at 7 or greater. But Goldens can live
13 to 15 years, with good care. From 8 to 10 years old, you start
seeing more changes due to old age. After 10, I would start calling
the dog a senior.

Active Mind + Active Body = Long,


Healthy Life
If your Golden has been healthy and active, there’s no reason he
shouldn’t continue being healthy and active in his senior years. In
fact, if you start taking away his
No Biscuit!
activities, he may deteriorate faster.
Older dogs are more
prone to tumors and cancers. Keep an eye on your Golden
Examine your Golden for tumors when you work or exercise him.
at least once a week and bring
He may not be able to do every-
him to the vet if you find one.
Cancer is a little harder to diag- thing a younger dog can, so don’t
nose without tests. If your Golden insist on the same physical abilities
is eating but losing weight, drink- of a younger dog. But don’t retire
ing excessive water, tiring easily, him yet, either, unless he has a
or not eating well at all, take him
medical problem or injury that
to the vet for a full examination.
precludes the activity. Some older
Chapter 18: The Golden Years 267

dogs enjoy a scaled-down version of the activity—it allows them to


have fun and interact with you.

Keeping Your Old Golden Comfortable


Older dogs tend to enjoy a nice warm bed. Dogs that once eschewed
the comforts of home tend to enjoy them now. A soft bed made
from orthopedic foam can help relieve pressure points. Some pet
equipment manufacturers have developed electric heating mats that
radiate constant warmth for the dog. If you use one of these, be cer-
tain that the cord is hidden so your Golden can’t chew it and get
electrocuted.
The stairs that were once only an obstacle to your puppy now
may become a real problem. If you can, move his crate or bed to the
lower part of the house so he doesn’t have to climb stairs anymore.
Ramps can make it easier for your Golden to get in and out of
cars and on and off of furniture. If stairs are still no big deal, you can
buy movable blocks of steps that make it easier for your Golden to
get up to his favorite spot on the couch.
© Carolyn Risdon

Give your Golden a soft bed to make his joints more comfortable. This is Brandy.
268 Part 5: The Golden Life—Living with a Golden

As your Golden gets older, he may have trouble chewing his


food. Moistening his dog food or feeding canned food is an alterna-
tive that will help make your Golden more comfortable.

Old-Age Ailments
Dogs have more problems when they age. This includes loss of cer-
tain senses, cancers and tumors, and, of course, arthritis. Many
problems can be mitigated with modern veterinary medicine, but
vets aren’t miracle workers. If you notice that your dog has a partic-
ular problem, it’s best to bring him to the vet when you notice it,
rather than wait for it to become a real problem.

Arthritis
Arthritis seems a constant in old age—for both people and dogs. If
your Golden is not active, you may see signs of arthritis early. Some
supplements, such as glucosamine and MSM (found in Cosequin,
Glycoflex, or Synova-Cre), can help relieve arthritis. These supple-
ments work well on some dogs but do nothing for others. Your
Golden usually has to be on it for more than six weeks before you
can see any effect.
Your vet can help mitigate some of the effects of arthritis with
anti-inflammatories. Aspirin is a common pain reliever—ask your
vet for the proper dosage. Do not give your dog either acetamino-
phen or ibuprofen—they are toxic
No Biscuit! to dogs. Your vet can prescribe
Never give anal- the right amount of buffered
gesics such as acetaminophen or aspirin, anti-inflammatories, or
ibuprofen to your Golden. These steroids to alleviate pain and
are toxic to dogs. Talk to your swelling. Keeping your dog off
vet about anti-inflammatories and
the proper dosages. the hardwood floors and keeping
him warm will go a long way to
making him comfortable.
Chapter 18: The Golden Years 269

Blindness
You may not even notice if your dog goes blind. Most dogs are quite
adept at getting around their home and even their neighborhood
even though they’re blind. The owner usually notices something is
amiss when the dog bumps into something that normally isn’t there.
Have your vet confirm your suspicions if you think your dog is
blind.
Now is not the time to rearrange the furniture. Keep your dog
at home and in familiar surroundings if he is blind or impaired visu-
ally. Don’t let him off the leash, or he might wander around and
become lost. When in a strange place, keep him beside you—you
are his seeing-eye person now! Keeping a steady stream of chatter
going will help guide him when you’re on walks so your Golden
will follow the sound of your voice.
But your dog doesn’t necessarily have to go blind or be without
sight. Depending on the type of eye problem, veterinary advances
have helped restore dogs’ sight. Vet opthamologists can diagnose
and treat certain problems such as cataracts and glaucoma. Corneal
transplants—once only in the realm of human medicine—are avail-
able to dogs as well.

Cancer and Tumors


Cancer and tumors are more prevalent with age. Some cancers and
tumors can be eliminated or greatly reduced if you spay or neuter
your dog before six months.
If you find a lump or bump that isn’t normally on your dog, have
it checked immediately. Some cancers and tumors are fast-spreading
and if you wait too long, it may be too late for your veterinarian to
do anything about them. Signs of cancer include strange growths,
excessive weight loss, lack of appetite, bleeding, sores or wounds
that will not heal, abnormal swellings, excessive sleep or lethargy,
and difficulty breathing, eating, or drinking.
270 Part 5: The Golden Life—Living with a Golden

Treatment for cancer or tumors is similar to treatment for cancer


and tumors in humans. This includes surgery, chemotherapy, and
radiation therapy. Newer, experimental treatments exist for cancer,
including gene therapy, but these are mostly untried and very costly.

No Biscuit!
One controversial medication commonly prescribed for arthritis
is Rimadyl™—also known as Carprofen. Some dogs have developed liver
disease while on Rimadyl. Still, many vets use Rimadyl to help alleviate
arthritis pain. If your Golden is suffering from arthritis and you want to try
Rimadyl, talk to your vet about potential risks and side effects. Your vet
may want to run blood tests to determine whether Rimadyl is right for your
dog.
Other medications within the same family as Rimadyl, such as Zubrin and
Dermaxx, are also possibilities. These may work better or have no effect
on your Golden’s arthritis.

Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome (CDS)


Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome is similar to Alzheimer’s disease in
humans. This disease is evidenced by a marked change in behavior.
Your Golden may suddenly look lost in the room. He may not rec-
ognize loved ones and may forget his housebreaking. His sleep may
be disrupted, and he may bark and carry on in the middle of the
night.
Brain tumors may mimic CDS, so it is important to have a brain
tumor ruled out before CDS treatment. CDS treatment of choice is
Anipryl, which is also used to treat Cushings Disease in dogs. The
therapy can be expensive, costing $50 to $100 a month. When your
dog is on the therapy, he must remain on it his entire life, or symp-
toms will reappear.

Congestive Heart Failure


Your Golden may have congestive heart failure if he coughs or has
respiratory distress and fluid buildup in the legs, and if he tires easily
Chapter 18: The Golden Years 271

after even light exercise. There’s no cure for congestive heart failure,
and it will ultimately be fatal, but it can be mitigated by diet and
medication. You can help prevent congestive heart failure by keeping
your Golden active and fit. Obesity can help cause or aggravate con-
gestive heart failure.

Deafness
If your Golden acts as if he’s ignoring you, he may be going deaf.
Deafness can come on gradually or suddenly. Clap your hands
behind your Golden’s head or rattle the food bowl while he’s in the
other room. If he doesn’t react, he’s probably deaf.
Deaf dogs can be exceedingly frustrating. You’ll find yourself
shouting at your Golden for no good reason—as though your
Golden will hear you talking louder. The truth is that after the hear-
ing goes, your Golden is unlikely to hear even shouting. Some deaf
dogs can hear whistles, but some are as totally deaf.
If your Golden is deaf, you’ll
have to teach him hand signals. Golden Glimmers
Start slowly—teach your dog as Hearing aids for dogs? That’s
you would a puppy. It may take a right. They are specially made
little bit of time for him to pick up to the dog and may offer a
on it, but most dogs are pretty quality of life that your Golden
wouldn’t have without them.
clever and figure out what we
want in spite of ourselves.

Dental Problems
Older dogs are more prone to dental problems due to worn or
chipped teeth and tartar buildup. Stinky breath, bleeding gums, loss
of appetite, broken teeth, or a buildup of brown tartar or plaque
indicates the need to go to the vet for a tooth cleaning and possible
extraction.
272 Part 5: The Golden Life—Living with a Golden

Retriever Rewards
Feed your Golden according to his weight and activity level.
Don’t necessarily switch your Golden to a senior diet unless
he’s gaining weight, his activity level has decreased, or he has a
physical condition that warrants a change in dog food. Many of my
senior dogs still work and are active—and get premium performance
dog food.

You can keep your Golden’s teeth healthy by brushing his teeth
often and giving him chews that help clean his teeth and gums.

Urinary Tract Problems


Signs of bladder or kidney problems include bloody or dark urine,
frequency in drinking and urination, hunched-up back, and pain
while urinating.
If your Golden shows blood in his urine or if he acts as though it
is difficult to urinate, you should bring him to your vet for an exami-
nation. Dogs, like people, can get kidney stones and bladder stones.
If your Golden has either, depending on his condition, your vet may
prescribe a urine acidifier and antibiotics or may have to operate.
Hard water, forcing a dog to hold it for long hours, and diet may
contribute to urinary tract problems.
Some dogs do become incontinent for no good reason. Discuss
this with your vet and see whether he can prescribe medications that
might help control it.

Should You Get Another Dog?


Some people decide to get a puppy as their Golden ages. The idea
is to help mitigate the pain of losing the beloved pet when the time
finally arrives. This can be good or bad, depending on the circum-
stance. If your Golden is very old, he may look on this new puppy as
Chapter 18: The Golden Years 273

an interloper. A puppy will take most of your time and energy—


leaving little time for your old dog. Your Golden may feel neglected
and may become aggressive or short-tempered with your new pup.
However, some dogs tolerate puppies well. Sometimes a puppy
can spark new life into an old dog. Something new and exciting can
shake an old dog from the routine enough to make him feel young
again. Some older dogs are quick to become the puppy’s aunt or
uncle and are delighted to show the ropes to the newcomer.

Retriever Rewards
If you decide to bring another dog or a puppy into the family,
always choose a neutral area such as a park for your Golden
to meet him. Let your Golden greet the newcomer while on leash.
Praise your Golden for good behavior and discourage bad behavior.
It may a take a few sessions before you can let your Golden loose
with the other dog or puppy.

Whether another dog or puppy is accepted largely depends on


you and your Golden. If your Golden gets along with other dogs
and puppies, getting a puppy might be the right choice. At the same
time, you must make your Golden feel extra special. Don’t stop
doing things with her now that you have the puppy—otherwise she
will associate the lack of attention with the appearance of the inter-
loper.

Saying Good-Bye
Saying good-bye is perhaps the hardest thing to do as a dog owner.
I’ve had to put several of my dogs down, and the truth is, it doesn’t
get any easier. Nor is the decision always clear cut.
Sometimes it’s obvious: Your Golden is in great pain and is
dying from a terminal disease or injury. Other times, the diagnosis
is unclear, or you’re sitting in an emergency room and don’t know
274 Part 5: The Golden Life—Living with a Golden

what to do. Heroic efforts may be required that cost far beyond
what you can afford, and your Golden has a very slim chance of
recovery. In times like this, talk to someone you can trust—perhaps
your own vet—or obtain a second opinion. Other friends who are
dog owners may be able to see clearly when you cannot. They may
offer you advice untainted by the emotions of the situation.
Don’t allow your best friend to suffer needlessly. Although it is
tempting to try heroic actions to save your pet, you may discover
that the end result is still the same. Dogs don’t live forever, and even
though you want your Golden to live a little longer, it may not be
humane or even possible.
Euthanasia is painless and quick. The veterinarian will adminis-
ter an injection, and your pet will be gone. You can stay with your
Golden during his final minutes or leave—your choice. Many pet
owners opt to stay with their Golden during the last few minutes as
it brings closure.
You will grieve. This is normal and natural. Don’t talk to non-
dog owners who tell you she was only a pet. No, she wasn’t. Your
Golden was your friend, and it would be callous to not grieve for a
good friend who just died.
Talk to your vet about grief. He or she may be able to refer you
to free or low-cost pet loss counseling. Many veterinary colleges
offer free or low-cost pet loss hot-
Retriever Rewards lines. Take care of yourself during
An excellent pet loss this time. Keep busy and active—
site on the Internet is exercise and eat a balanced diet.
www.petloss.com. It has some Avoid being alone and going into
of the most comprehensive lists
depression. You aren’t denying
of pet loss support groups, hot-
lines, and information to be that you have grief over the loss—
found anywhere. you are helping yourself deal
with it.
Chapter 18: The Golden Years 275

With time, the pain and anguish of your pet’s death will fade.
You will start remembering all the good times you had together.
Perhaps, in time, you’ll be ready to own another Golden Retriever.
Perhaps you will get a puppy to keep you occupied. If you do,
remember that no puppy will replace your beloved pet, and that no
dog will be like your Golden. Your new puppy or dog will have a
different personality and different behaviors—don’t expect the same
thing out of this puppy. However, in time, you may grow to love this
new addition as much as your beloved pet.

The Least You Need to Know


≠ Keeping your older dog active will help him lead a longer,
better life.
≠ Your old dog will need your help coping with arthritis, blind-
ness, deafness, and other old-age ills.
≠ Carefully consider getting a new puppy as your dog ages.
≠ You will grieve when your dog dies. Don’t let him suffer need-
lessly just to postpone the inevitable.
Appendix

A
Glossary
AAFCO The Association of Animal Feed Control Officials.
This regulatory committee sets the standards for pet nutrition.
agility A sport in which dogs go through a specially designed
obstacle course. It is a timed event, so dogs that complete the
course accurately in the least amount of time do well.
American Kennel Club (or AKC) The AKC is the oldest and
largest national purebred dog registry in the United States. The
AKC was founded in 1884.
ASPCA American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to
Animals.
bait pouches Little pouches that enable you to carry your treats
if you don’t have pockets or if you don’t want to get your pockets
messy. They’re called “bait” because when you stack a dog in con-
formation, you lure or “bait” him with a treat so that he will look
attentive.
Champion (CH or Ch) A dog that earns 15 points in conforma-
tion dog shows, including 3 points or better under two different
judges.
278 Appendix A

clicker training A form of positive reinforcement that relies heav-


ily on operant conditioning. The dog receives a click from a special
clicker and is conditioned to expect a treat. Dogs quickly learn to
emit behaviors that will cause the click (and subsequent treat) and
avoid behaviors that will not produce the click.
conformation The structure of the dog as it conforms to the
breed standard.
congenital A condition that is present at birth that may have
either genetic or environmental causes.
cow hocks Hocks turned in toward each other.
croup The sloping rear end as viewed from the top.
cue A word or signal that a dog is supposed to associate with a
particular behavior.
digestibility The percentage of nutrients in a dog food that the
dog can use after it is digested.
Dual Champion (DC) A dog that has its CH and its FC.
elbow dysplasia Malformation of the elbow joint.
fade To slowly remove an intermediate training object, such as a
clicker or target stick, or an intermediate cue, to leave the end
result—the cue and the action.
Field Trial Champion (FC) A hunting title obtained when the
dog wins either a National Championship Stake or 10 points in
Open All-Age, Limited All-Age, Special All-Age, or Restricted
All-Age competition.
hare feet The foot is oval in shape due to the two middle toes
being much longer than the other toes.
Heel position A position in which your dog sits or stands beside
your left side, next to your knee.
hereditary A genetic condition, that is, inherited through the
genes of the parents.
Glossary 279

hip dysplasia A hereditary malformation of the hip bones.


hobbyist breeders Another name for reputable breeders.
hocks In the hind leg, the hock is the joint between the dog’s
knee and his metatarsus or rear pastern. Corresponds to the ankle
in humans.
idiopathic A disease or condition whose cause is unknown.
limited slip collar A slip collar with a restriction that prevents
the collar from tightening too much.
MACH Masters Agility Champion. An agility championship in
the American Kennel Club.
mark To designate a behavior as desirable.
meat by-products The nonrendered, clean parts other than
muscle meat, from slaughtered mammals. It includes all organs
and defatted fatty tissues. It does not include stomach or intestine
contents, hair, horns, teeth, and hooves.
meat meal Meat from which the water and fat have been
extracted. If the label says “chicken meal,” then the meal must be
made from chickens.
microfilariae These are heartworm larvae that infect a dog.
negative reinforcement A training technique that corrects the
dog for behaving in the incorrect manner. It is a form of operant
conditioning, but most positive trainers try to avoid this technique.
nutriceuticals A nutritional supplement intended to help mitigate
a condition or disease.
occipital bones The bones that make up the rear point of the
skull.
operant conditioning A learning method in which the animal
learns from the consequences of his actions.
280 Appendix A

Osteochondritis dissecans A painful condition that is often asso-


ciated with elbow dysplasia, quite often hereditary or congenital.
OTCH Obedience Trial Champion. An obedience championship
in the American Kennel Club.
overshot bite A bite in which the incisors of the upper jaw leave a
gap between them and the incisors of the lower jaw when the mouth
is closed.
pastern The metatarsal bones between (on the rear leg) the hock
and the foot or (on the front leg) the metacarpal bones between the
wrist and the foot.
pedigree A dog’s family tree.
pet quality A puppy or dog that has a superficial blemish or fault
that would prevent the dog from competing in the conformation
(dog) show ring.
polygenic A trait or condition coming from more than one gene
pair.
positive reinforcement A training technique that rewards the
dog for behaving in the correct manner. It is a form of operant
conditioning that uses little, if any, coercion or punishment. Both
owners and dogs enjoy this training.
prong collar A collar, used for training purposes, made from steel
links with prongs that turn inside against the dog’s neck. This collar
is a limited slip design; when pulled, the prongs grab into the loose
folds of skin around the neck.
quick The portion of a dog’s nail with blood vessels that supply the
nail.
reputable breeders Breeders who breed dogs for the betterment
of the breed. These breeders perform tests on their dogs to avoid
breeding puppies with bad hips, hereditary blindness, or other hered-
itary diseases. These breeders guarantee their dogs and often screen
their puppy buyers vigorously. Puppies are not always available.
Glossary 281

roach back A back that is convex in its curve.


scissors bite A bite in which the incisors of the upper jaw lay just
in front of the incisors of the lower jaw when the mouth is closed
and there is no space.
shaping Starting with a basic behavior that is relatively easy to
attain and slowly progressing in increments to the behavior that you
want. For example, teaching a dog to touch something with his paw
can be shaped to waving good-bye, closing or opening a door, or
other behaviors by clicking at incremental steps until the dog dis-
plays the final desired behavior.
show quality A puppy or dog that conforms closely to standard
and may be competitive in a conformation (dog) show.
sickle hocks Hocks that won’t straighten when in full stride.
slab-sidedness Flat ribs.
slip collar A collar used for training purposes, usually made from
chain. This collar tightens when pulled.
snap choke A type of slip collar that snaps onto a loose ring. It
is made of parachute cord rather than steel links and offers more
control than the standard slip collar.
spread hocks Hocks turned outward.
stack Standing one’s dog in the conformation show ring in a way
that emphasizes positive characteristics and diminishes flaws.
standard A standard is a kind of blueprint for the breed. We say
a dog conforms to the standard when he meets the requirements
for that standard.
subvalvular aortic stenosis Malformation of the heart caused
by congenital or hereditary reasons.
throatiness Excessive loose skin on throat.
tracking leads Leashes made from cotton or nylon that can be
10 to 30 feet in length. Trainers use these leads for tracking work
282 Appendix A

(hence the name) but also for distance work such as working on the
recall command.
trichiasis, entropion, ectropion, or distichiasis These are all
eyelid or eyelash abnormalities, usually congenital or hereditary.
Tricuspid valve dysplasia Malformation of one of the valves in
the heart caused by congenital or hereditary reasons.
undercoat A layer of fur beneath the top coat that insulates and
keeps a dog warm. It sheds out periodically, usually twice yearly.
undershot bite A bite in which the lower incisors are in front of
the upper incisors when the mouth is closed.
Appendix

B
Organizations
Agility Association of Canada (AAC)
RR #2
Lucan, Ontario
N0N2J0
519-657-7636
American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA)
P.O. Box 150899
Denver, CO 80215-0899
Website: www.aahanet.org
American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine (ACVIM)
1997 Wadsworth Boulevard, Suite A
Lakewood, CO 80215-3327
Website: www.acvim.org
American Kennel Club (AKC)
5580 Centerview Drive
Raleigh, NC 27606-3390
919-233-9767
Website: www.akc.org/
E-mail: info@akc.org
284 Appendix B

American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA)


1931 N. Meacham Road, Suite 100
Schaumburg, IL 60173-4360
847-925-8070
Website: www.avma.org
Canine Eye Registration Foundation
Department of Veterinary Clinical Science
School of Veterinary Medicine
Purdue University
West Lafayette, IN 47907
765-494-8179
Fax: 765-494-9981
Website: www.vet.purdue.edu/~yshen/cerf.html/
Canine Freestyle Federation
Monica Patty, Corresponding Secretary
21900 Foxden Lane
Leesburg, VA 20175
Website: www.canine-freestyle.org/
E-mail: secretary@canine-freeestyle.org
Golden Retriever Club of America (GRCA)
Visit their website for a full listing of volunteers who will provide
written material and answer questions over the phone about Golden
Retrievers.
Website: www.grca.org/
Membership Administrator
Deborah Ascher
P.O. Box 69
Berthoud, CO 80513-0069
970-532-3124
E-mail: lookoutgld@aol.com
Organizations 285

Golden Retriever Club of America National


Rescue Committee (GRCA-NRC)
Website contains all rescues by state, available dogs, and how to
contact the appropriate rescues.
Website: www.grca-nrc.org/
Administrative Assistant
Margaret Strowe
P.O. Box 277
Augusta, NJ 07822-0277
E-mail: webmaster@grca-nrc.org
National Dog Registry
Box 116
Woodstock, NY 12498
1-800-637-3647
Website: www.natldogregistry.com
North American Flyball Association, Inc.
1400 W. Devon Avenue, #512
Chicago, IL 60660
309-688-9840
Website: flyball@flyball.org
Orthopedic Foundation for Animals
2300 Nifong Boulevard
Columbia, MO 65201
573-442-0418
Website: www.offa.com/
Tattoo-A-Pet
6571 S.W. 20th Court
Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33317
1-800-828-8667
Website: www.tattoo-a-pet.com
286 Appendix B

United Kennel Club (UKC)


100 East Kilgore Road
Kalamazoo, MI 49001-5593
Website: www.ukcdogs.com/
United States Dog Agility Association (USDAA)
P.O. Box 850955
Richardson, TX 75085-0955
972-231-9700
Information Line: 888-AGILITY
Website: www.usdaa.com/
E-mail: info@usdaa.com
World Canine Freestyle Organization Ltd
P.O. Box 250122
Brooklyn, NY 11235
718-332-8336
Fax: 718-646-2686
Website: www.woofs.org/wcfo/
E-mail: wcfodogs@aol.com
Appendix

C
Books and Periodicals
Books
Alderton, David. The Dog Care Manual. Hauppauge, NY: Barron’s Educational
Series, 1986.
American Kennel Club. The Complete Dog Book, 19th Edition Revised. New
York: Howell Book House, 1997.
Benjamin, Carol Lea. Second-Hand Dog. New York: Howell Book House, 1988.
Bonham, Margaret H., and James M. Wingert, D.V.M. The Complete Idiot’s
Guide to Dog Health and Nutrition. Indianapolis, IN: Alpha Books, 2003.
Bonham, Margaret H. An Introduction to Dog Agility. Hauppauge, NY: Barron’s
Educational Series, 2000.
———. The Simple Guide to Getting Active with Your Dog. Neptune City, NJ:
TFH Publications Inc., 2002.
Coffman, Howard D. The Dry Dog Food Reference. Nashua, NH: Pig Dog
Press, 1995.
Eldredge, Debra, D.V.M. Pills for Pets: The A to Z Guide to Drugs and
Medications for Your Animal Companion. New York: Citadel Press, 2003.
Fogle, Bruce, D.V.M. The New Encyclopedia of the Dog. New York: DK Books,
2000.
Giffin, James M., M.D., and Liisa D. Carlson, D.V.M. The Dog Owner’s Home
Veterinary Handbook, 3rd edition. New York: Howell Book House, 2000.
288 Appendix C

James, Ruth B., D.V.M. The Dog Repair Book. Mills, WY: Alpine Press, 1990.
Klever, Ulrich. The Complete Book of Dog Care. Hauppauge, NY: Barron’s
Educational Series, 1989.
LaBelle, Charlene. A Guide to Backpacking with Your Dog. Loveland, CO:
Alpine Publications, 1993.
Palika, Liz. Purebred Rescue Dog Adoption: Rewards and Realities. Hoboken,
NJ: Howell Book House, 2004.
Streitferdt, Uwe. Healthy Dog, Happy Dog. Hauppauge, NY: Barron’s
Educational Series, 1994.
Volhard, Joachim, Wendy Volhard, and Jack Volhard. The Canine Good
Citizen: Every Dog Can Be One. New York: Howell Book House, 1997.
Zink, M. Chris, D.V.M., Ph.D. Peak Performance: Coaching the Canine
Athlete. New York: Howell Book House, 1992.

Periodicals
AKC Gazette
51 Madison Ave.
New York, NY 10010
Dog Fancy Magazine
P.O. Box 53264
Boulder, CO 80322-3264
1-800- 365-4421
Website: www.dogfancy.com
Dog World
P.O. Box 56240
Boulder, CO 80323-6240
1-800-361-8056

Online Magazines
Everything Golden
www.everythinggolden.com
GR Weekly
www.grweekly.com
Index
A cancer and tumors, 269
CDS (Cognitive Dysfunction
Syndrome), 270
AAFCO (Association of American
congestive heart failure, 270
Feed Control Officials), 59, 158
deafness, 271
AAHA (American Animal Hospital
dental problems, 271-272
Association), 175
urinary tract problems, 272
abscesses, 223
air travel, 257
accidents, housetraining, 84-85
AKC (American Kennel Club), 9
accommodations, travel, 258
registration, 29-31
administration of medications,
standards, 11-15
210-211
conformation, 13
adult dogs
females, 14
activity, 266
importance of, 11-12
ailments, 268
males, 14
arthritis, 268
show-quality versus pet-
blindness, 269
quality, 12-13
cancer and tumors, 269
website, 13
CDS (Cognitive Dysfunction
AKC Companion Animal
Syndrome), 270
Recovery, 244
congestive heart failure, 270
alcohol, 169
deafness, 271
allergies, 214-215
dental problems, 271-272
alternatives to crates, 78-79
urinary tract problems, 272
American Animal Hospital
comforts, 267-268
Association. See AAHA
crate training, 80
American Boarding Kennel
euthanasia, 273-274
Association, 260
getting another dog, 272-273
American Kennel Club. See AKC
selection, 49-50
American Red Cross, 240
versus puppies, 37-38
anal sac expression, 206
Advantage (Imidacloprid), 192
Ancylostoma caninum (hookworms),
aggression, correcting bad behav-
187
ior, 149-151
animal hospitals, 174
agility class, 92-93
animal shelters, 35-36
ailments, senior dogs, 268
Anipryl, treatment of CDS
arthritis, 268
(Cognitive Dysfunction
blindness, 269
Syndrome), 270
290 The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Golden Retrievers

antihistamines, 233 bills of sale, reputable breeders, 34


Aortic Stenosis, 218 Biospot (pyrethrins and fenoxycarb),
arthritis, 268 193
Association of American Feed bite, 14
Control Officials. See AAFCO Black Locust tree pods, 67
attention class, 92 bladder control, senior dogs, 272
blindness, 269
B bloat, 220-221
blow dryers, 58
Babesiosis, 194 blue slips. See AKC registration
backyard breeders, 21 boarding pets, 251, 259-261
bad behaviors. See behavioral body, 15
problems bones (treats), 53-55
bad breath, 219 Bordetella bronchiseptica, 182
bait pouches, 102 Borellosis (Lyme disease), 182
balancing nutrients, raw food breeders
diets, 167-168 disreputable, 20-22
bargain brand foods, 160 reputable, 22-33
barking excessively, correcting AKC registration, 29
bad behavior, 147 CKC registration, 31
bathing, 208 contracts, 34
Bed command, 125 health certifications, 24-26
Beg trick, 134 KC registration, 31
Beginning Obedience, 90 locating, 26-29
behavioral problems, 137-153 nurturing environment, 33
aggression, 149-151 pedigrees, 32-33
as indication of health UKC registration, 31
problem, 142-143 visiting, puppy selection, 46-49
breaking the cycle, 138 broken bones, 230
chewing and destructive broken toenails, 219
behavior, 144 brushing teeth, 203
digging, 146 burns, 230
escape artist dogs, 148 by-products, food, 61
excessive barking, 147
fear of loud noises, 152-153 C
food raiding, 148-149
house-soiling, 145 Campylobacter poisoning, 167
inadvertent encouragement Canadian Kennel Club. See CKC
of bad behavior, 141-142 cancer and tumors, 269
jumping up, 146 Canine Adenovirus (CA2), 180
separation anxiety, 151-152 Canine Coronavirus, 182
signs of trouble, 140 Canine Distemper. See CDV
between-meal snacks, 169 Canine Ehrlichiosis, 194
Index 291

canine gastric dilatation-volvulus. field trial training, 94


See CGDV Flyball training, 93
Canine Good Citizen® title. See hunting test training, 94
CGC® title Novice, 91
Canine Infectious Tracheo- Puppy Kindergarten, 90
bronchitis. See kennel cough Rally-O training, 93
Canine Parainfluenza, 181 tracking class, 92
Canine Parvovirus, 182 cleaning ears, 204
canned dog foods, 163 clicker training, 92-93, 102,
car travel, 254-255 108-112
carbohydrates, food, 165 Come command, 119
Carprofen (Rimadyl), 270 cue words, 112
cataracts, 24, 216-217 Down command, 116
CDS (Cognitive Dysfunction heeling on leash, 122-123
Syndrome), 270 introducing the clicker, 109
CDV (Canine Distemper), 180 Sit command, 115
Central Progressive Retinal Stay command, 117
Atrophy. See CPRA target sticks, 110
CERF (Canine Eye Registration varying response time, 110
Foundation), 25 walking on a leash, 114
CGC ® title (Canine Good clipping nails, 205-206
Citizen®), 103-105 coat, 8, 15, 207
CGDV (canine gastric dilatation- Coccidia, 191
volvulus), 220 coffee, 170
Champion title (CH), 33 Cognitive Dysfunction Syndrome.
chest, 15 See CDS
chewing, correcting bad behavior, cold weather, 256
144 collars, training, 98-100
chews, edible, 53-56 color, 15
children and Goldens, 39 Come command, 118-120
chocolate, 169 commands
choke chains. See slip collars Bed, 125
choking, 231 Beginning Obedience training, 90
citronella bark collar, 147 Come, 118-120
CKC (Canadian Kennel Club), 31 Down, 115-116
classes, professional training, 89-94 Drop, 124
agility class, 92-93 Leave It!, 124
attention class, 92 Off, 123
Beginning Obedience, 90 Out, 125
clicker training, 92-93, 102, Sit, 114-115
108-123 Stay, 116-117
conformation training, 93 Trade, 124
Watch Me!, 125
292 The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Golden Retrievers

compatibility, 37-41 diet and exercise programs, 170-171


children, 39 dietary allergies, 215
males versus females, 38-39 digging, correcting bad behavior,
multi-dog households, 41 146
puppies versus adults, 37-38 Dipylidium caninum (tapeworms), 188
show dogs versus pet dogs, 39 Dirofilaria immitis (heartworms), 188
compressed meat rolls, 163 disaster planning, 239-246
conformation training, 13, 93 identification of dog, 243
congenital conditions, 214 microchips, 244-246
congestive heart failure, 270 tags, 243
conjunctivitis, 224 tattoos, 244-246
contact allergies, 214 lost dogs, 246
containment systems, 66 moving pet out of home, 241
contracts, reputable breeders, 34 preparedness kits, 240-243
Coronavirus, 182 where you will stay, 241-242
correcting bad behavior. disease. See illness/disease
See behavioral problems disreputable breeders, 20-22
cow hooves, 56 Distichiasis, 217
CPRA (Central Progressive do-it-yourself dog washes, 208
Retinal Atrophy), 216-217 dog bites, 231
crates, 76 doggie day-cares, 260
alternatives, 78-79 dominance aggression, 149
bringing puppy home, 68 Down command, 115-116
car travel, 255 Drop command, 124
safe place, 78 dry dog foods, 162
training, 80
cue words, clicker training, 112
cuts and injuries, 231
E
E. coli poisoning, 167
D ear mites (Otodectes cynotis), 195
ears and ear care, 14, 204-205
dangers of car travel, 255 Ectropion, 217
deafness, 271 ED (elbow dysplasia), 22-24, 215
Demodectic mange mites edible chews. See chews
(Demodex canis), 195 Ehrlichiosis, 194
dental care, 203-204, 271-272 elbow dysplasia. See ED
Dermaxx, 270 electrocution, 231
destructive behavior, 144 electronic pet containment
development of Golden systems, 66
Retrievers, 10 emergencies, 229-235
dewormers, 186 burns, 230
diarrhea, 221 choking, 231
diet. See food
Index 293

cuts and injuries, 231 field trials, 9


electrocution, 231 Finish command, 91
fishhooks, 232 Fipronil (Frontline), 192
fractures, 230 Fipronil and Methoprene
frostbite/hypothermia, 232-233 (Frontline Plus), 192
insect bites and stings, 233 first-aid kits, 228
muzzling your Golden, 230 fishhooks, 232
overheating, 233 fitness versus obesity, 170
poisoning, 234 Flat-Coated Retrievers, 10
shock, 235 flea allergy dermatitis, 214
emergency clinics, 174 fleas, 191-193
Entropion, 217 fluoride toxicity, 203
enzymatic cleaners, 84 Flyball training, 93
epilepsy, 216 food, 59-61
estrus, 201 AAFCO recommendations, 158
euthanasia, 274 allergies, 215
excessive barking, correcting bad availability, 161
behavior, 147 bargain brands, 160
excessive scratching, 225 canned dog foods, 163
exercise and diet programs, 170-171 compressed meat rolls, 163
exercise pens, 59, 79 dry dog foods, 162
expressing anal sacs, 206 fad diets, 168-169
external parasites frozen dog foods, 163
fleas, 191-193 junk food, 159
mites, 195-196 labels, 160
ticks, 193-194 meat by-products, 60
eyes, 14, 216-217, 224-225 meat meal, 60
mixing brands, 161-162
F nutrients, 163-165
obesity, 170-171
FAA regulations, air travel, 257 palatability, 161
fad diets, 168-169 performance diets, 168
fat in food, 164 poisonous, 169-170
FC (Field Trial Champion) title, 33 premium, 160
fear aggression, 149 raw food diets, 165-168
feet, 15 semi-moist dog foods, 163
females treats and between-meal snacks,
standard, 14 169
versus males, 38-39 foxtails, 222
Fetch trick, 131 fractures, 230
Field Trial Champion title (FC), 33 Friends of Animals, 200
field trial training, 94 Frontline (Fipronil), 192
294 The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Golden Retrievers

Frontline Plus (Fipronil and spaying/neutering, 198-201


Methoprene), 192 weekly health exams, 201
frostbite, 232-233 selecting a veterinarian, 173-178
frozen dog foods, 163 facilities, 174
frustration aggression, 150 first visit, 177-178
Full Registration (AKC registra- interviews, 176
tion), 31 recommendations, 175
visiting facility, 176-177
G taking temperature, 211
vaccinations, 178-183
gait, 15 health certifications, 24-26
gastric torsion. See bloat hearing aids, 271
giardia, 183, 190 Heartgard (Ivermectin), 189
Give Me a Kiss trick, 133 heartworms (Dirofilaria immitis),
going into season (estrus), 201 188-190
Golden Retriever Club of heat (going into season), 201
America, standards, 10-15 heatstroke, 234
Golden Retriever Club of heel position, 121
England, 10 heeling on leash, 121-123
grand mal seizures, 226 hereditary conditions, 214
grapes, 170 allergies, 214-215
grass awns. See foxtails ED (elbow dysplasia), 215
grooming, 207-208 epilepsy, 216
guarding, 150 eye disease, 216-217
gum problems, 204 HD (hip dysplasia), 217-218
health certifications, 24-26
hypothyroidism, 218
H OCD (Osteochondritis
dissecans), 216
HD (hip dysplasia), 22-24, 218 SAS (Subvalvular-Aortic
head, 14 Stenosis), 218-219
head halters, 100-101 hip dysplasia. See HD
health care history of Golden Retrievers, 10
emergencies. See emergencies hobbyist breeders, 22
handling fleas, 191 AKC registration, 29
medication administration, CKC registration, 31
210-211 contracts, 34
pet health insurance, 183-184 health certifications, 24-26
preventative care, 197 KC registration, 31
anal sac expression, 206 locating, 26-29
dental care, 203-204 nurturing environment, 33
ear care, 204-205 pedigrees, 32-33
grooming, 207-208 UKC registration, 31
nail care, 205-206
Index 295

holistic medicine, 177 OCD (Osteochondritis disse-


Honey Locust tree pods, 67 cans), 216
hookworms (Ancylostoma caninum), SAS (Subvalvular-Aortic
187 Stenosis), 218-219
hot spots, 222 hot spots, 222
hot water bottle and clock trick, 72 incontinence, 223-224
Houdini dogs, 66, 148 irritated eyes, 224-225
household products, 62 lumps, 223
housetraining, 81 pyometra, 224
accidents, 84-85 ringworm, 225
recommendations, 83, 145 seizures, 226-227
things to avoid, 82 senior dogs, 268
hunting test training, 94 arthritis, 268
hunting tests, 9 blindness, 269
hygiene. See grooming cancer and tumors, 269
hypothermia, 232-233 CDS (Cognitive Dysfunction
hypothyroidism, 24, 218 Syndrome), 270
congestive heart failure, 270
I deafness, 271
dental problems, 271-272
identification of dog, 243 urinary tract problems, 272
microchips, 244-246 ILP registration (Indefinite Listing
tags, 243 Privilege), 31
tattoos, 244-246 Imidacloprid (Advantage), 192
idiopathic aggression, 150 immunizations, 178
idiopathic epilepsy, 216 available vaccinations, 179-183
idiopathic seizures, 226 when to vaccinate, 179
idiot barking, correcting bad incontinence, 223-224
behavior, 147 Indefinite Listing Privilege.
illness/disease, 219 See ILP registration
bad breath, 219 Infectious Canine Hepatitis
bloat, 220-221 (CA1), 181
diarrhea and vomiting, 221 inhalation allergies, 215
excessive scratching, 225 insect bites and stings, 233
foxtails, 222 insurance, pet health insurance,
hereditary and congenital, 214 183-184
allergies, 214-215 Interceptor (Milbemycin), 189
ED (elbow dysplasia), 215 internal parasites
epilepsy, 216 Coccidia, 191
eye disease, 216-217 giardia, 190
HD (hip dysplasia), 217-218 heartworms, 188-190
hypothyroidism, 218 hookworms, 187
roundworms, 186
296 The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Golden Retrievers

tapeworms, 188
whipworms, 188
M
interviews, veterinarians, 176
males
irritated eyes, 224-225
standard, 14
Ivermectin (Heartgard), 189
versus females, 38-39
mammary tumors, 201
J–K mange mites, 195-196
meat by-products, 60
jumping up, correcting bad meat meal, 60
behavior, 146 medication administration,
junk food, 159 210-211
microchips, identification,
Kaopectate, 221 244-246
KC (Kennel Club), 31 microfilariae (heartworm
Kennel Club. See KC larvae), 189
kennel cough (Canine Infectious Milbemycin (Interceptor), 189
Tracheobronchitis), 180-182 Milbemycin and Lufenuron
kennels, 58, 259-261 (Sentinel), 189
mites, 195-196
L mixing food brands, 161-162
mobile clinics, 175
labels (foods), 60, 160 Moxidectin (Proheart 6), 190
latigo leather leashes, 101-102 multi-dog households, 41
leashes, 101-102 muzzles, 14, 230
Leave It! command, 124
Leptospirosis, 181 N
lifecycle, heartworms, 189
Limited Registration (AKC nails and nail care, 205-206
registration), 31 National Dog Registry, 244
limited slip collars, 98 National Forest Service, 250
Litter Registration (AKC National Park Service, 250
registration), 31 Nature’s Miracle, 84
locking mechanisms (crates), 77 neck, 15
Lomberdale Blondin, 11 negative reinforcement training,
lost dogs, 246 89, 108
low-cost clinics, 174 neutering pets, 198-201
Lufenuron (Program), 193 nose, 14
lumps on the skin, 223 Novice training class, 91
Lyme disease (Borellosis), 182, 194 nutriceuticals, treating ED
(elbow dysplasia), 215
Index 297

nutrients in food, 63-165 operant conditioning, clicker


nutrition. See food training, 108-112
nylon leashes, 101 Orthopedic Foundation for
Animals. See OFA
O osteochondritis dissecans.
See OCD
obedience training, 10 Otodectes cynotis (ear mites), 195
agility class, 92-93 Out command, 125
attention class, 92 oval feet, 15
Bed command, 125 over-the-counter remedies,
Beginning Obedience, 90 parasites, 186, 193
clicker training. See clicker overheating, 233
training overshot bite, 14
Come command, 118-120 overweight Goldens, 170-171
conformation training, 93 ownership, 7-9, 18
Down command, 115-116
Drop command, 124 P–Q
field trial training, 94
Flyball training, 93 pain aggression, 150
heeling on leash, 121-123 papers, AKC registration, 29
hunting test training, 94 Parainfluenza, 181
Leave It! command, 124 parasites
Novice training class, 91 Coccidia, 191
Off command, 123 fleas, 191-193
Out command, 125 giardia, 190
Puppy Kindergarten, 90 heartworms, 188-190
Rally-O training, 93 hookworms, 187
Sit command, 114-115 mites, 195-196
Stay command, 116-117 over-the-counter remedies, 186
tracking class, 92 roundworms, 186
Trade command, 124 tapeworms, 188
walking on a leash, 113-114 ticks, 193-194
Watch Me! command, 125 whipworms, 188
obesity, 170-171 Parvovirus, 182
OCD (osteochondritis dissecans), pedigrees, 32-33
24, 216 PennHIP, 25
odor remover, 227 pennies-in-a-pop-can method,
OFA (Orthopedic Foundation correcting bad behavior, 147
for Animals), 25 Pepto-Bismol, 221
Off command, 123 performance diets, 168
off-leash recall training, 120 personality, 5
onions, 170 Pet Assure, 183
298 The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Golden Retrievers

pet health insurance, 183-184 premium dog foods, 60, 160


pet loss website, 274 preparedness kits, disaster
Pet Plan Insurance (Canada), 183 planning, 240-243
pet sitters, 261-263 preventative care, 197
pet spas, 260 anal sac expression, 206
pet stores, 22 bloat, 220
pet-quality dogs, 11-13, 39 dental care, 203-204
PetCare Insurance Programs, 183 ear care, 204-205
petit mal seizures, 226 grooming, 207-208
Petshealth Insurance Agency, 184 heartworm prevention, 189-190
pig ears, 56 nail care, 205-206
pills, medication administration, spaying/neutering, 198-201
210-211 weekly health exams, 201
plants, backyard hazards, 67 prey aggression, 150
plastic travel crates, 77 professional training classes,
poisons, 169-170, 234 89-94
polygenic diseases, ED (elbow agility class, 92-93
dysplasia), 215 attention class, 92
pools, backyard hazards, 67 Beginning Obedience, 90
pooper-scoopers, 58 clicker training, 92-93, 102,
popularity of Golden Retrievers, 108-123
4-5 conformation training, 93
positive reinforcement training, 89, field trial training, 94
108 Flyball training, 93
Bed command, 125 hunting test training, 94
clicker training, 108-112 Novice, 91
Come command, 118-120 Puppy Kindergarten, 90
Down command, 115-116 Rally-O training, 93
Drop command, 124 tracking class, 92
heeling on leash, 121-123 Program (Lufenuron), 193
Leave It! command, 124 progressive retinal atrophy.
Off command, 123 See PRA
Out command, 125 Proheart 6 (Moxidectin), 190
Sit command, 114-115 prong collars, 99-100
Stay command, 116-117 protein in food, 164
Trade command, 124 Pryor, Karen, 109
walking on a leash, 113-114 puncture wounds, 231
Watch Me! command, 125 puppies
pounds, 35-36 crate training, 80
PRA (progressive retinal atrophy), papers. See AKC registration
25, 217 puppy mills, 20
pregnancy, 227-228 selection, breeder visits, 46-49
Premier Pet Insurance Group, 184 versus adult dogs, 37-38
Index 299

Puppy Kindergarten, 90 health certifications, 24-26


puppy-proofing your home, 61-66 KC registration, 31
backyard, 64-66 locating, 26-29
garage, 64 nurturing environment, 33
house, 61-63 pedigrees, 32-33
purchasing a Golden UKC registration, 31
adult selection, 49-50 rescue alert stickers, 241
disreputable breeders, 20-22 rescue groups, 35-36
puppy selection, 46-49 responsibility of ownership, 18
reputable breeders, 22-31 retractable leads, 102
AKC registration, 29 Revolution (Selamectin), 190
CKC registration, 31 Rimadyl (Carprofen), 270
health certifications, 24-26 ringworm, 225
KC registration, 31 RMSF (Rocky Mountain Spotted
locating, 26-29 Fever), 194
UKC registration, 31 Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever.
pyometra, 201, 224 See RMSF
pyrethrins and fenoxycarb Roll Over trick, 133
(Biospot), 193 roundworms (Toxocara canis), 186
rules of training, 95-96
quick, 205
S
R
safety, bones, 55
rabies vaccination, 180 salmon, 170
raiding food, correcting bad Salmonella poisoning, 167
behavior, 148-149 Sarcoptic mange mites
raisins, 170 (Sarcoptes scabei), 196
Rally-O training, 93 SAS (subvalvular aortic stenosis),
ramps, senior dogs, 267 24, 218-219
raw food diets, 165-168 scissors bite, 14
rawhides, 55 seat-harnesses, car travel, 255
redirected aggression, 150 seizures, 226-227
registration papers, 29-31 Selamectin (Revolution), 190
release words, Stay command, 117 self-training your Golden, 88
remedies. See treatment bait pouches, 102
removing ticks, 194 CGC ® title, 103-105
reputable breeders, 12, 22-31 clickers, 102
AKC registration, 29 collars, 98-100
CKC registration, 31 head halters, 100-101
contracts, 34 leashes, 101-102
300 The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Golden Retrievers

rules of training, 95-96 splayed feet, 15


treats, 103 spray bottle method, correcting
semi-moist dog foods, 163 bad behavior, 147
senior years St. John’s dogs, 10
activity, 266 Stand, conformation show, 93
ailments standards, 5, 9-15
arthritis, 268 conformation, 13
blindness, 269 females, 14
cancer and tumors, 269 importance of, 11
CDS (Cognitive Dysfunction males, 14
Syndrome), 270 obedience, 10
congestive heart failure, 270 show and field, 9
deafness, 271 show-quality versus pet-quality,
dental problems, 271-272 12-13
urinary tract problems, 272 therapy and assistance, 9
comforts, 267-268 Stay command, 116-117
euthanasia, 273-274 subvalvular aortic stenosis. See SAS
getting another dog, 272-273 supplies
Sentinel (Milbemycin and edible chews, 53-56
Lufenuron), 189 food, 59-61
separation anxiety, correcting necessities, 52-53
bad behavior, 151-152 “nice-to-have” supplies, 58-59
sexual aggression, 150 toys, 56
Shake Hands trick, 129 systemic treatments for fleas, 192
shaping behavior, 111-112
shedding, 8
shelters, 35-36
T
shock, 235 tags, identification, 243
shoulders, 15 tail, 15
show and field, 9 Take a Bow trick, 130
show-quality dogs, 11-13, 39 talents, 9-10
Sit command, 114-116 tapeworms (Dipylidium caninum),
skin snap test, 233 188
sleep arrangements, 71-72 target sticks, clicker training, 110
slip collars, 98 Tattoo-A-Pet, 244
snacks, 169 tattoos, identification, 244-246
snap chokes, 100 teeth, dental care, 203-204
spas, 260 temperament, 15
Spay USA, 200 temperature taking, 211
spaying pets, 198-201 theobromine, chocolate, 169
Speak trick, 129 therapy and assistance, 9
spider bites, 233 ticks, 193-194
Index 301

titles (pedigrees), 33 walking on a leash, 113-114


Toxocara canis (roundworms), 186 Watch Me! command, 125
toys, 56, 132 travel, 249
tracking class, 92 accommodations, 258
tracking leads, 102 air travel, 257
Trade command, 124 boarding pets, 251, 259-261
training car travel, 254-255
Bed command, 125 crates, 77
clicker training, 108-112 packing, 253
Come command, 118-120 pet sitters, 261-263
crates, 80 planning, 251
Down command, 115-116 treatment
Drop command, 124 arthritis, 268
heeling on leash, 121-123 bloat, 220
housetraining, 81-85 cancer and tumors, 270
Leave It! command, 124 CDS (Cognitive Dysfunction
Off command, 123 Syndrome), 270
Out command, 125 ED (elbow dysplasia), nutri-
professional classes, 89-94 ceuticals, 215
self-training, 88 fleas, 186, 192-193
bait pouches, 102 heartworm, 190
CGC ® title, 103-105 parasites, 186
clickers, 102 treats, 103, 169
collars, 98-100 Trichiasis, 217
head halters, 100-101 Trichuris vulpis (whipworms), 188
leashes, 101-102 trick training, 127-135
rules of training, 95-96 Beg, 134
treats, 103 creating your own tricks,
Sit command, 114-115 134-135
Stay command, 116-117 Fetch, 131
Trade command, 124 Give Me a Kiss, 133
trick training, 127-135 Roll Over, 133
Beg, 134 Shake Hands, 129
creating your own tricks, Speak, 129
134-135 Take a Bow, 130
Fetch, 131 Wave Good-Bye, 133
Give Me a Kiss, 133 tricuspid valve dysplasia. See TVD
Roll Over, 133 tumors and cancer, 269
Shake Hands, 129 TVD (tricuspid valve dysplasia), 24
Speak, 129 Tweed Water Spaniels, 10
Take a Bow, 130 Tweedmouth, Lord, 10
Wave Good-Bye, 133
302 The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Golden Retrievers

U websites
AAHA (American Animal
Hospital Association), 175
UKC (United Kennel Club), 31
AKC (American Kennel Club),
undercoat, 14
13
undershot bite, 14
AKC Companion Animal
United Kennel Club. See UKC
Recovery, 244
university clinics, 175
American Red Cross, 240
unsafe foods, 169-170
Friends of Animals, 200
unsafe household products, 62
National Dog Registry, 244
urinary tract problems, senior
Pet Assure, 183
dogs, 272
pet loss site, 274
USDA, posting missing pets, 247
Pet Plan Insurance (Canada), 183
PetCare Insurance Programs, 183
V Petshealth Insurance Agency, 184
Premier Pet Insurance Group,
vaccinations, 178 184
available vaccinations, 179-183 Pryor, Karen, 109
when to vaccinate, 179 Spay USA, 200
veterinarians, 173-184 Tattoo-A-Pet, 244
boarding facilities, 259 USDA missing pets, 247
clinics, 174 VPI (Veterinary Pet Insurance),
first visits, 69, 177-178 184
interviews, 176 weekly health exams, 201
pet health insurance, 183-184 whipworms (Trichuris vulpis), 188
recommendations, 175 worms
vaccinations, 178-183 heartworms, 188-190
visiting facilities, 176-177 hookworms, 187
Veterinary Pet Insurance. See VPI roundworms, 186
visiting breeders, puppy selection, tapeworms, 188
46-49 whipworms, 188
vomiting, 221
VPI (Veterinary Pet Insurance), X-pens, 59, 79
184
Zubrin, 270
W–X–Y–Z
walking on a leash, training,
113-114
Watch Me! command, 125
Wave Good-Bye trick, 133

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