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People & Culture

APRIL 2011

ECO-FRIENDLY ULSAN
TEEMING WITH LIFE

CAFÉ EVOLUTION
KOREA‘S CAFÉS BREW COFFEE
AND CULTURE

K-POP CAPTURE
OP STARS
KOREANCPES WORLDWIDE
AUDIEN
ISSN: 2005-2162

www.korea.net

표지결정.indd 1 11. 4. 6. 오후 4:32


Contents
april 2011 VOL.7 NO.04

02
COVER STORY
Korea’s pop stars touch the hearts of
audiences all over the world.

14
PEN & BRUSH
Choi Young-mi is an iconic poet who
represents the 1980s youthful spirit.

18
PEOPLE
Climber Park Young-seok reaches the South
Pole in an eco-friendly way.

22
GREAT KOREAN
Yi Sun-sin, who lived in the Joseon Dynasty, is
one of the most well-known heroes in Korea.

24
SEOUL
Seoul’s Insa-dong is famous for its traditional
02
atmosphere and unique galleries.

26
TRAVEL
Once a typical industrial city, Ulsan has
PUBLISHER Seo Kang-soo,
renewed its natural environment. Korean Culture and Information Service

30 EDITING HEM KOREA Co., Ltd

NOW IN KOREA
E-MAIL webmaster@korea.net
Cafés became ubiquitous in Korea very
quickly. And café culture is ever evolving. PRINTING Samsung Moonhwa Printing Co.

34
MY KOREA
18 30 All right reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced in
any form without permission from
With more than 20 mountains in Seoul alone, KOREA and the Korean Culture and
hiking is a must-do activity. Information Service.

38 The articles published in KOREA do


not necessarily represent the views of
SPECIAL ISSUE the publisher. The publisher is not liable
PyeongChang is giving its all to win the bid to for errors or omissions.
host the 2018 Winter Olympic Games.
If you want to receive a free copy of
KOREA or wish to cancel a subscription,
40 please e-mail us. A downloadable PDF
SUMMIT DIPLOMACY file of KOREA, and a map and glossary
President Lee’s visit to the UAE for an oil deal. with common Korean words appearing
in our text are available by clicking on the
44 thumbnail of KOREA on the homepage

GLOBAL KOREA
Korean technology spreads worldwide.
26 of www.korea.net.

발간등록번호 11-1110073-000016-06

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cover story

AND THE
NEW
KOREAN
WAVE
ROCK THE
WORLD
The power of music leaves us in awe. It’s no longer unusual to
hear people on the opposite side of the planet hum along to
K-pop songs. Korean music is spreading throughout Asia and
around the world. As it leads the new Korean wave, just how far
can K-pop go? by Jeong Deok-hyeon
© Playcube

Boy band Beast gives a showcase of the Legend of Beast - Vol. 1, in September 2010 in Japan.

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Dream High, a popular Korean TV JYP Entertainment co-produced displays the state of the Korean wave
drama that wrapped up in February, told the drama, but their appearance is today.
the story of a young musician named significant not just in terms of
K, who goes on to win a Grammy their business but of pop culture. K-POP AS THE NEW KOREAN WAVE
Award in 2018. Even for a drama, the It proved the barrier between TV Kara’s first Japanese single, Mister,
exaggerations can be a bit too much to dramas and pop music is slowly reached No 5 on the Oricon Weekly
handle, but they’re somewhat related but surely coming down. Chart in the first week of its release last
to the ongoing evolution of the new Their appearances brought August. They became the first Asian
Korean wave. K-pop, which is leading together the first generation and [besides Japan itself] girl group to crack
the way for the new wave, has already the second generation of Korean the top 10. And Kara’s greatest hits
transcended Asia and has begun to wave stars. compilation album debuted at No 2 and
reach America, Europe and even South In the drama, Bae is a director at sold 50,000 units in its first week. It also
America and the Middle East. Kirin Art High School and recruits ranked second on the weekly chart. And
If the drama Dream High comes future K-pop stars. He appoints the recent DVD titled Kara Best Clips
across as extra ambitious, that’s likely Bae Yong-joon in TV Drama Park as one of the teachers before sold 132,000 copies in its first week to
Dream High (above). Dream
because the show cast some of the top High highlighted the leaving for Japan. This was a symbolic top Oricon’s weekly DVD chart. This
enthusiasm of Korea‘s
K-pop artists of the day — Taekyeon young musicians; the show
development. It was almost as if Bae, was an unprecedented feat for a female
and Woo-young of 2PM, Suzy of Miss A, caught audiences‘ attention who started the Korean wave with his artist since Oricon started tracking
because it starred some real
Eun-jeong of T-ara and IU. Bae Yong- K-pop stars like Taekyeon hit dramas, had passed the torch to DVDs in 1999.
(right and below), Suzy of
joon and Park Jin-young, both top Miss A, Eun-jeong of T-ara,
Park, the face of the new Korean wave Girls’ Generation, who debuted in 2NE1 makes an intense impression with the programs took a serious approach to
a unique visual style (above). It’s easy to
artists themselves now involved in talent IU and others (below). led by K-pop music and agencies. The Japan last September, put their first see why Girls’ Generation has attracted the phenomena: What separated Korean
both male and female fans of all ages,
development, appeared side by side. influence of K-pop is now the subject of single, Genie, at No 4 on Oricon’s both at home in Korea and around the
girl groups from Japanese groups,
Bae’s agency Keyeast and Park’s company popular TV shows — nothing better monthly chart after selling 45,000 world (below). and why teenagers and 20-something
units in its opening week. The group Japanese girls went crazy over Korean
has sold 121,000 units of its album to artists. The Japanese industry felt the
date. Girls’ Generation ranked second need to analyze the rush of
only behind AKB48, the
Japanese equivalent of
Girls’ Generation, on
the girl group power
ranking compiled by
Nikkei Entertainment,
based on record sales
last year.
It’s noteworthy that Japanese
media have taken an interest
in Korean girl groups. News
Watch 9 on NHK, the most-

© YG Entertainment (above); SM Entertainment Co., Ltd


watched news program in
Japan, once allocated five
minutes at the top of the
program to a story about
Korean girl groups.
Many other private
© Keyeast Co., Ltd

broadcasters have reported


on Korean girl bands on
morning shows. Most of

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to the shock of the group members by releasing albums. language. Some cover bands emulating
themselves. They had never even been The singer Rain traveled uncharted T.O.P, a member Korean artists have sprung up in the
of Big Bang, is
to Japan before, let along performed territory with his world tour, but today becoming a big US. Their mimicking of K-pop dances
hit thanks not
on a Japanese stage. That first showcase artists can be a bit more precise in their only to his work
are uploaded on YouTube and generate
drew 22,000 people. Even before Girls’ preparation. Rain, Wonder Girls or as a singer, but more interest. The new school of
also for his
Generation set foot in Japan, the group other artists aren’t so much trying to hit acting (right). thought is that it’s better for Korean
had already built a huge fan base thanks the foreign markets as they are ‘visiting’ Girl group After artists to stay true to themselves rather
School joined
to their songs and music videos made foreign countries. with several than trying to be American.
Japanese artists
readily available via online sites. That has made it possible for Kara on their albums
K-pop has taken a leading role in to come back to Korea to release a new (below). With K-POP GOES GLOBAL Now that K-pop
its powerful
the new Korean wave, largely because single, all the while their stock continues stage show, boy is catering to a global audience, the
group 2PM has
its content is so web-friendly. Music to soar in Japan. Time and space have seen its
most important asset is content with
videos and music files — content that been rendered less important. You can popularity soar. international appeal. Producing music
(bottom).
can be consumed in a short time — are take the stage in Korea and Japan, and is increasingly becoming a global
a much better fit for the Internet than fly over to South America and the US if project. For instance, Girls’ Generation’s
TV dramas. The spread of music is also necessary. singles such as Hoot and Tell Me Your
less impeded by any language barriers, These changes to marketing strategies Wish (Genie) were written outside of
unlike dramas. So Korean songs that Korea. A group of Danish
are spread through the Internet have writers composed Hoot and
Korean girl groups and decide how they Korea’s brand new boy group ZE:A, transcended the boundaries of the old a Norwegian composing
which made its debut last year, gives a
should respond to it. performance in Japan in September 2010 Korean wave. No longer limited to group named Design Music
(above). 4Minute played overseas shows
This is phenomena is reminiscent of in Thailand, the Philippines and
Japan, China and Southeast Asia, K-pop wrote Tell Me Your Wish.
how “Bae Yong-joon Syndrome” first elsewhere (below). has seen its horizons expand to the rest Words are written and songs
took Japan by storm. Yon-sama (Sir Bae of the world in real time. Be it the US, are arranged in Korea, and
Yong-joon in Japanese) fever started Europe or the Middle East: wherever choreographers from the
with middle-aged women who went there is Internet, the Korean wave has US and Japan create the
head over heels for Korean dramas. transcended language and racial barriers routines. It’s truly a global
And the Korean actors, who were and reached international audiences. project. Because K-pop songs
polite and gentle to them and treated Soompi.com, the world’s largest Korean
them like ladies, were easy to like. The wave community site, headquartered have also led to a shift in strategies on
rise of Korean girl groups in Japan is in the US, boasts 700,000 members localization. Park Jin-young once said
similar to the Yon-sama fever in that worldwide. And they’re all non- the words ‘Korean wave’ themselves are
even though there was no Japanese Koreans, including Caucasians, African- obstacles to the very movement they
equivalent, there was clearly enough Americans, Hispanics, Arabs and people describe. His point was that the only way
demand. of mixed backgrounds. to carve a niche in the US is to become
The emergence of social networking Americanized. Many people agreed

© YG Entertainment (top); Pledis (middle); JYP Entertainment (right)


THE NEW KOREAN WAVE MAP services has altered K-pop marketing at the time. For all that Korean wave,
Before the second Korean wave strategies. The costs have been reduced. it would all be for naught if audiences
took shape, people took note of idol Agencies don’t have to directly market couldn’t relate. But Park’s theory can’t
groups’ dominance in local digital to the public when fans themselves build explain the recent trends of the new
© Star Empire Co., Ltd (top); Playcube (above)

music markets. Idol groups gradually industry. Still, the explosion of K-pop, their own networks online and share Korean wave.
developed more talent as they leading to the second Korean wave, was content. So it really comes down to the Today, international fans tend to be
underwent systematic training. The beyond anyone’s wildest imagination. content itself and whether it can appeal enamored with the Korean lyrics. Fans
rise of Wonder Girls, Girls’ Generation The catalyst for the success was the to the global audience. Companies in Japan, Taiwan and even in South
and Big Bang helped usher in an era of Internet. Girls’ Generation’s Japanese can gauge possibilities in new markets America are trying to sing along with
digital music and dispel any lingering showcase on Aug 25, 2010 saw about around the world through the Internet the Korean words of these songs, some
worries of recession in the recording 800 fans greet them at the airport, much and then focus on regions with potential going as far as learning the Korean

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sexiness. Kara, unlike in Korea, enjoyed from six countries from throughout the management system unique to
a quick rise to stardom in Japan Latin America. K-pop has been key to building ties
because it had both the girly image of with agencies in Thailand and Taiwan.
Japan and the sexy image of K-pop. If IT’S CULTURE, NOT NATIONALITY For They’ve created synergy effects that cross
Girls’ Generation members seem like the new Korean wave, which retains international boundaries.
goddesses that are hard to approach, its local identity as it moves globally,
Kara girls have a friendly, more down- the idea of nationality is no longer K-POP CHANGES THE INDUSTRY Once
to-earth image. important. What has become more smartphones and tablet PCs become
K-pop artists and producers have important is the distinct nature of the more widely available, you will likely
experimented with global music in an culture. Lee Soo-man, producer of SM experience an even bigger revolution
attempt to reach out to international Entertainment, was buoyed by Chinese than ever. K-pop’s contents may go
audiences. In the past, Korean agencies enthusiasm for the boy band H.O.T. and beyond songs and could well blend
merely tried to copy the Japanese system saw the possibilities of K-pop in Asian with dramas, films or other genres.
and musical trends. markets early on. By joining forces with A project such as Dream High serves
Today, these agencies catch on to the Japan’s Avex, Lee helped build successful as an example, and the fact that more
latest trends in the US and Europe and Japanese careers for BoA and TVXQ. recording companies are investing in
apply a Korean twist. Because of this, That was the very start of the ongoing storytelling contents such as dramas and
K-pop has become the trendsetter for success of the new wave. films reflects this shift.
pop music in Asia. The same can be said Korean girl group After School K-pop is expanding its horizons
for boy bands such as 2PM. These young collaborated with Amuro Namie on the because of the obvious advantages of
men have given K-pop a clear identity. artist’s greatest-hits compilation, the Kim Hyun-joong, once a member of boy its storytelling contents. K-pop is pretty
group SS501, is widely popular in several
The worldwide spread of Korean pop success of which suggests there could countries, including Taiwan, Hong Kong competitive with its songs, but in order
and Thailand (above). Miss A is a global
music has, amazingly, reached all the be more international collaborations project group which has Chinese
for it to be constantly consumed and
way to South America. involving Korean artists in the future. members Zia and Fei (below). talked about, it needs to tell stories one
Chile, for instance, held the 2nd K-pop The album features songs on which way or another. Music videos have done
contest in Santiago last November. It Amuro was featured. After School also the job so far, and now producers are
seems that K-pop has many fans in that joined other Japanese artists such as trying to be more aggressive in dramas
country, with many expressing a great AI&Anna Tsuchiya, Kawabata Kaname and films.
interest in the Korean wave. and Yamashita Tomohisa on working on This transition suggests that K-pop
The syndrome doesn’t stop there. their albums. won’t be confined to music for too
Argentina also hosted Latin America’s M-flo, a leading black music artist much longer. K-pop wields the biggest
K-pop contest last October, which was in J-pop, has an interesting lineup. The influence as a champion of Korean pop
attended by more than eleven teams group consists of VERBAL (born Ryu culture, but it may also have a more
Yeong-gi), a third-generation ethnic practical impact on the industry. It’s
have such diverse backgrounds, they are Boy band SHINee Korean, and DJ Takahashi Taku. The significant in many ways that Girls’
is popular among
that much more likely to be accepted group itself is global, and they have Generation has been tagged as the Asian

© SM Entertainment Co., Ltd (left above); Core Contents Media (left)


young girls all
over the world
internationally. (above). Girl group
worked with such Korean artists as Thailand. He was born to a Thai-Chinese face of Intel.
Just because K-pop music has become T-ara are known Wheesung, BoA and Alex. They believe family and is now a national star in It means multinational corporations
for their cute and
global doesn’t mean it has lost its Korean that a cultural bond through hip hop is Thailand. Victoria and Amber of the girl have recognized the global economic

© Keyeast Co., Ltd (top); JYP Entertainment (above)


friendly image
(right).
character. As previously mentioned, more important than their nationalities. group f(x), and Zia and Fei of Miss A, values of K-pop artists, and that those
girl groups like Girls’ Generation found Some K-pop groups themselves have are Chinese. This sort of globalization companies have taken interest in the
success in Japan because they separated broken down these barriers. Sandara has helped change the perception of rising popularity of K-pop as its contents
themselves from their Japanese Park of 2NE1 started her career in K-pop groups. For fans, Korean groups have reached all over the world through
counterparts. the Philippines, and Park Jae-beom, aren’t “them” but “one of us.” the Internet. The new Korean wave, led
Japanese girl groups a cute image, formerly of 2PM, is an American born Such a strategic partnership that by K-pop, has moved on from music
while K-pop girl groups sought to to Korean parents. 2PM even recruited transcends borders isn’t confined to to pop culture and now to an entire
portray an air of confidence and a foreign national: Nichkhun, from group members. The know-how for industry.

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cover story

hit the charts in the US and Europe, and Spain also watched the music and keep fans up to date on what’s going
too. To this day, Gee has been viewed video on YouTube. It’s truly a global on with them in Korea.
more than 33 million times on YouTube list. This is all thanks to the power of SNS also wields a great deal of
alone. YouTube is now serving a SNS. Big Bang’s new album reached No influence on the activities of fan clubs.
launching pad for K-pop artists. With 7 on Billboard’s Heatseekers Albums Last September, when artists of SM
the term ‘YouTube Silk Road’ being chart, which tracks titles from ‘new or Entertainment put on a joint show at
tossed around, K-pop is actively developing acts,’ and No 3 on the World the Staples Center in Los Angeles, some
using YouTube to reach out to foreign Albums chart. Last January, TVXQ’s 2,000 members of SM Town fan clubs
markets. For instance, in October 2010, new single, Keep Your Head Down, had a spontaneous gathering. And it
SM Entertainment introduced a teaser made it to No 4 on the United World all started with a seeming innocuous
clip for the new Girls’ Generation single Chart at the German site Media Traffic. Facebook posting by a 20-something
Hoot and then the full music video Neither TVXQ nor Big Bang resorted to female American fan. When that
on YouTube. Within two days, these direct local marketing, but still achieved message took a life of its own, fans
videos attracted 1 million clicks. That’s outstanding results, mostly thanks to decided to get together for a giant party,
almost on par with the leading pop SNS and the new Korean Wave. taking SM officials by surprise. It was
artists of the world. Last September, K-pop stars can indulge themselves also encouraging that while most of the

unknown in Japan and it had to hit the

Stars and Fans streets first to build a name for itself.


A few years later, Girls’ Generation

Connected by SNS
didn’t have to do all of that work. The
girl group had already secured tens of
thousands of Japanese fans through
Through Social Network Service (SNS) such as YouTube, YouTube, and their first showcase drew YG Entertainment put music videos Wonder Girls recorded a big worldwide (above).
Big Bang throwed an exclusive concert, the Big
audience was expected to be Korean-
Facebook and Twitter, K-pop stars are broadening their 22,000 people. The girls had to hold by 2NE1 on YouTube and they had 10 Bang Show, in February 2011 (opposite). Americans, there were more Caucasians
three shows to accommodate all of million clicks in just two weeks. and African-Americans.
horizons. This magic service that transcends time and space
their fans. It was all thanks to the power Most recently, Tonight, the lead on Facebook, Twitter or me2day, a SNS won’t stop there. Once
helps turn Korean stars into global icons. of YouTube. With the group’s videos single off a mini album by Big Bang, Korean equivalent of Twitter. Today, pop smartphones and tablet PCs become
widely available, some eager fans began was spread around the world through stars see Twitter as the most important more widely used, the impact SNS
It took several years for the TV drama spreading across the globe at the speed to mimic the girls’ dances and produced YouTube. It has surpassed 3 million window of communication with fans. will have on K-pop will be beyond
© YG Entertainment (above); JYP Entertainment (opposite)
Winter Sonata to find its footing in Japan of light. The magic that is SNS enables their own videos. Those clips also made viewers, topping the list in Korea. It also And often, Twitterians with the most your wildest imagination. With more
before leading to Yon-sama syndrome. K-pop stars to reach out to their fans it to YouTube. The video for the single led all music videos in Japan, enjoyed followers are celebrities. Super Junior media platforms, cultural content will
At the time, Korean pop culture contents all over the world. It also carries K-pop Gee by a group of Japanese high school the most comments, made the most boasts a massive following. Donghae transcend music videos or footage of
could only be moved along the retailing music videos and footage from TV show girls was a sensation in both Japan and favorites lists and received the highest has 320,000 followers, the top among concerts, and dramas and movies —
system. Contents had to first reach the programs to all corners of the world in Korea. ratings. The video has also fared well in Korean stars. Kim Hee-chul has about so-called storytelling content — could
market and then be signed on to local real time. Today, you can easily find K-pop non-Asian countries. It was the second- 284,000 followers and Choi Si-won is take over. After dramas and films started
broadcasters or agencies before making Compare, for instance, the situation music videos on the list of the most most watched music video in Australia, followed with about 283,000. Nichkhun out the first Korean wave, the second
it to the program listing just to reach an for TVXQ when it first entered the viewed clips on YouTube. Nobody fourth in Hong Kong and Taiwan, and of 2PM has 267,000 people following wave will be all encompassing of all
overseas audience. But K-pop, which Japanese market to what the market by Wonder Girls in 2008 got the ball fifth and sixth in New Zealand and his tweets. Through Twitter, K-pop stars contents as it turns global. The K-pop
is leading the second Korean wave, is is like today. TVXQ was virtually rolling, and Gee by Girls’ Generation France. Fans in India, Sweden, Mexico spread the word about their new albums will be placed on a different pedestal.

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cover story

the tip of the iceberg. On the Internet, music and b-boy routines, targeting in the Soviet Union, according to the
you can find a string of websites where young people who are into dancing,” stringer Lee Myung-sook. North Korean
you can watch Korean programs live Park said. “Some viewers requested songs and dances dominated the air
and even add your own subtitles. And K-pop music, and the program played until recently, but the youth of today
Korean pop artists are the hottest 2NE1, 4Minute, BoA, Girls’ Generation, mostly listen to Wonder Girls, Girls’
celebrities. Music programs are there, 2PM, G-Dragon, Super Junior and Generation, Rain and TVXQ, among
and variety shows featuring idol stars SHINee.” other K-pop stars. Older generations
have helped show different sides of Lim Jeong-hee, a stringer in Brazil, have caught on and they’ve developed
musicians behind the stage to fans said Leitura Dinamica, an entertainment interest in old Korean pop.
around the world. Though countries program on Rede TV, a terrestrial As K-pop artists continue to make
may be divided by their boundaries network, played Tonight by Big Bang. strides in countries like Mexico and
and languages, people in different “The music video for Tonight capped Brazil, where actual performances are
countries can enjoy their K-pop music off the program after midnight on Feb limited, local agencies have turned their
all the same. 28, after a series of world famous artists eyes to overseas. Digital music files have
As K-pop grows more popular, were introduced,” Lim said. The host of narrowed the chasm between publicity
foreign broadcasters are taking greater Leitura Dinamica said, “Big Bang is the and revenues, and are breaking down
interest in Korean music. Ura Kara, a most accomplished group in Asia and barriers between countries.
Japanese TV drama starring Korean girl within just two days of the release, the Through major satellite and cable
group Kara, has drawn an average of group’s new album was an instant hit platforms, K-pop is creating a new
3.13% ratings over seven shows, which is in Canada and New Zealand.” On this Korean wave in almost real time. The
a quite success in Japanese drama field. program, Drunken Tiger and his wife K-pop fever is also attracting even
What’s really fascinating is a number Yoon Mi-rae greeted their Brazilian fans more broadcasters. In the Middle East
of K-pop-related programs that air with fluent English and Korean. and South America, K-pop is only just
outside of Asia. The Korea Foundation In Uzbekistan, K-pop become popular breaking ground. Still, it’s encouraging
for International Culture Exchange among the Goryeoin, overseas Koreans to see international audiences falling in
keeps track of K-pop’s popularity love with K-pop. The Korean wave road
through its stringers, and it’s getting Korea’s girl group Kara gets a fame overseas, that K-pop is paving is delivering Korea’s

K-POP Music some interesting news. especially in Japan (below). Super Junior is one of culture to television sets all around the
the most well-known K-pop star all over Asian
Last February, Sans Chichis, a countries (opposite). world.
program on Belgian public TV station

Capturing the World´s Imagination RTBF, introduced SHINee and Girls’


Generation as the leading artists of
K-pop. A reporter named Sophie Frison
K-pop is heating up the tubes around the world. Korean music programs are walked into the studio to the beat of Gee
readily available in living rooms across Southeast Asia via satellite and American by Girls’ Generation and greeted her
and European TVs are busy promoting K-pop music, which has carved its niche audience with, “Annyeonghaseyo,” or
through the Internet. “Hello” in Korean. The panel discussed

© DSP media (right); SM Entertainment Co., Ltd (opposite)


how stars are groomed and nurtured in
Korea. They marveled at the music video
Music Bank on KBS often runs global Music Bank in real time, at the same channels Comcast and Cox. Astro, for SHINee’s Hello, and one member
events for international audiences. hour as Korean viewers. Korean stations Hong Kong Cable, Star Hub (Singapore), of the panel proudly claimed to have
Leading K-pop artists such as Big Bang, are all available on major satellite and SCTV, Sky Cable, and Sansar TV known long ago of SHINee’s exalted
2NE1, Girls’ Generation and Kara can cable rotations. (Mongolia) across Asia. On Astro, the status in Asia.
connect with their fans in Southeast KBS World is providing its programs largest satellite platform in Southeast Park Geum-jeong, a Mexico-based
Asia. Those who are signed to Astro to Direct-To-Home (DTH) channels Asia, KBS programs rank among the top stringer, said a program on a Guanajuato
in Malaysia, SCTV in Vietnam and such as Echo Star and Time Warner 10 in ratings in 80 countries. local affiliate of Televisa showed K-pop
Sky Cable in the Philippines can watch in the US, and also to American cable But these programs just might be music videos. “This program plays dance

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pen & brush

Forever Thirty
The poet sighed when the party was over. She imparted a new meaning to the age
30, and she became an icon for those drifting between “before thirty and after
thirty.” Though she doesn’t want to be defined as a protagonist of the unstable and
drifting youth, she still lives and writes as if she will forever be thirty.
by Lim Ji-young | photographs by Choi Ji-young

The party is over.


The bottles have run dry,
Wallets are emptied and,
Finally, even he’s left.

But although they paid their dues,


And found their shoes,
And left the place deserted,
I know someone is still lurking.

Someone will be here, alone,


Wiping the tables clean and
Shedding tears bearing all the memories.
She will set up the table and
Call them back before the sunrise.
She will light the stage once more
When the preparations are done.

But does it matter now?

– At Thirty, the Party is Over

Choi Young-mi wrote the poem At Thirty, the Party is Over,


shortly after celebrating her 30th birthday. As if illustrating a self-
portrait, Choi’s words resounded with those floating somewhere
between the vitality of youth and the stagnation of aging.
Reflecting back on that night, Choi says, “I met my old friends
for the first time in a long time. We drank together that night and
talked about a lot of things, a lot of the trivial things surrounding
us and our routine lives, but nothing intrigued me as much as it
did when I was in my twenties.”
Nothing special happened that night. It was a quiet, normal

Choi Young-mi
night. But Choi says something changed within her. When she
saw her friends wearing designer shoes and taking money out of

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their wallets to pay for drinks, she suddenly realized that the days era both politically and socially in Korea, and she decided to BOOK
when she was a part of them and when they were an inseparable become actively involved in social movements.
part of her life were over. “In general, I’m a dull and introverted person. I liked to be 三十, 宴は終わった
She saw the essence of this life from this ordinary scene on her alone and didn’t want to bother or be bothered by other people,” (AT THIRTY, THE PARTY IS OVER )
birthday, and translated the vain, futile sense of loss into a poem. she says. “But I could clearly see what was going on. I just couldn’t Language Japanese
Published 2005
Her first poem collection, At Thirty, the Party is Over, released in pretend as if I didn’t see or know anything.” Publisher Shoshiaokisha
1994 and became a best seller with more than 500,000 copies sold She made her writing debut with eight poems, including In
in the first year. Sokcho, in Creation and Criticism magazine in 1992. Choi was Choi’s first poetry collection
was published in 1994 in
thrust into the spotlight with the publication of her first poetry Korean. With it, she won
LOVER OF LITERATURE Choi is the eldest child in her family, but book, At Thirty, the Party is Over, in 1994. Her poems were fame on her first attempt
she wasn’t the first born. She had an older sister with a chronic cynical, provocative and sensational. No poet like her had come with this outstanding piece.
The book contains lyrical yet
illness who passed away. As a child, her parents’ focus was on the before her. Her work was truly unique. One critic said of Choi, provocative poems that
health of her older sister, so young Choi found an escape in books. “We finally have a poet who speaks for and about our oppressed describe those who spent
She could forget her real-life worries, even if it was for mere generation.” their twenties fighting a
violent and oppressed
moments. At that time, she wrote two types of diaries. One was In 1997, her first essay, Gloom of the Time, was published and society, and lived their
her official diary, and the other was kept in secret. In her secret her second poetry book, Stepping on the Pedals of My Dreams, thirties struggling to settle
diary, she wrote connotative paragraphs, rather than describing was released the following year. Through these poems and essays, back into a routine life. When the book was released, it became
a sensation among the younger generation for asking such
her emotions like other young girls of her age. Every week, she shared her frank confessions. There was no boundary to her questions like ”What is the identity of the 1990s?“ and by
she memorized two to three poems on her way to school and writing, and she was eager to write about everything in all genres. declaring ”The life we shared in the 1980s is over.“ She also
back home. She even made a book out of her favorite poems, While her readers were waiting for her next collection of described the young soul with an urban sense.
Choi was not afraid to talk about sex and sexual desire as an
which was a special gift she gave to herself. poems, she released her first novel, Scars and Patterns, in 2005. active narrator, and poems such as Memories of the Last Sex
All of these aspects of Choi’s life developed her writing Choi did not want to be defined as a writer entrapped in one and First, That are perfect examples of her boldness.
skills and expanded the scope of her thoughts and feelings, specific genre. Robert Hass, former head of the Academy of She even reveals her disillusionment of the circumstances at the
time through the phrase ”Innovation became hackneyed before
while providing valuable opportunities to establish a American Poets, once said after hearing her recite in the U.S., it started. Love also became hackneyed before it started“ in the
sense of self. “As a child, I would read anything, especially “Choi’s poems are like the paintings by American abstractionists.” poem Before Love and Innovation Even Start. This collection of
poems,” she says. “I was not an outgoing person. I was a poems is widely loved by her readers and arouses sympathy
through the sense of loss. It was one of the best-selling books of
quiet girl. Most of time, I spent my days reading poems A SELF-ENRICHING LIFE For the past three years, Choi has been the year.
by Byron, Baudelaire and Han Yong-un. The time I had living in Chuncheon, a one-hour drive away from her hometown
for eating, sleeping, and socializing with friends was in Seoul. Her life has become much simpler and lonelier, but it’s
韓国現代詩小論集—新たな時代の予
all dedicated to reading and writing.” also a little clearer since her move to this lakeside city.
(KOREA MODERN
Choi was received several outstanding prizes Currently, Choi teaches writing at Kangwon National POEM COLLECTION)
in her youth, including the Hankook Ilbo’s Best University and is working on her a next novel. She says she enjoys Language Japanese
Poem Prize, which further inspired and motivated the rural life. Though she gained fame with her outspoken poems, Published 2000
Publisher Doyobijutsusha
her to continue creating poems. Choi says she she says there is something she never wanted to face through Shuppan
was sensitive and wanted to spend more time poetry. “I realized [through my writing] that I didn’t love myself
and energy in exploring the world of literature. that much at that time. I was self-destructive. If I could live my This collection contains literary
criticisms that introduce and
She was also an intellectual and would go thirties again, I would definitely love myself more and live a self- critique poems written by new
on to attend one of Korea’s most prestigious confident life.” generation poets in Korea.
universities, Seoul National University. When she looks back to her thirties, Choi says she feels guilty Criticisms written by Sagawa
Aki, renowned Japanese poet
that she didn’t do the best she could for herself. Witnessing some and critic for the poem-
CANDID POEMS Choi says she never was a indescribable changes in her fifties, she completed a new poetry specialized journal, are
leader or activist. As a university student, book titled Life That Has Not Arrived. collected in the book.
It is notable that the critic focuses on Choi’s poems more than
she wanted to be passive and focused “I still don’t know where I am. But I know that I don’t get others. Aki devotes over 20 pages to introducing Choi’s major
on her academics, but circumstances bumped against the world surrounding me any more. Where am work of poetry. The writer critiques some outstanding poems
surrounding her own life did not allow I heading? I don’t know where I am heading. I still don’t know the such as Personal Computer and Songs from a Sad Café from her
poetry book At Thirty, the Party is Over and said Choi’s poems as
her the quiet existence she desired. The last destination in which I will arrive,” she confesses as her voice sharply illustrating and reflective of many aspects of a turbulent
beginning of the 1980s was a turbulent trails off like a drifter in her thirties. Korean society.

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people

The Challenge
isn’t Over
Climber Park Young-seok cannot be described without the
modifier “world’s first.” A living legend in the Korean
mountain climbing scene, Park shocked the world last January
by reaching the South Pole with an eco-friendly snowmobile
running soley on solar power. by Seo Dong-cheol

Park’s list of records is nothing short of outstanding. He


climbed all 14 of the 8,000m peaks in the Himalayas in
less time than anyone had before, and he set a record for
scaling six 8,000m peaks in the Himalayas in one year. He
established a new fastest time for reaching the South Pole,
and did it without any food supply. Also among his feats, in
2005 he was the first to complete a true Adventure Grand
Slam (reaching the highest peak on each continent, 14
8,000m peaks in the Himalayas, and both poles).
After a recent revisit to the South Pole, Park began a
new challenge, with an environmental focus. “We all hear
that we should not be using fossil fuels and that the earth’s
health is deteriorating, but no one feels or sees it more than
mountain climbers,” Park said. “Mountain climbers travel
to the peaks of the world and actually see the glaciers melt
and the geography change. This was my third South Pole

© Park Young-seok Exploration & Culture Foundation; Kim Nam-heon (right)


expedition and the state of the South Pole was worse than
ever. The South Pole is supposed to have an arid climate
similar to that of a desert, but when we were there it was
snowing every three days. I wanted to send a message
about global warming by reaching the South Pole with
nothing but sunlight and wind.”
The first thing Park needed for this expedition was an
environmentally friendly snowmobile. He visited every
Korean electric automobile company with his plans but

Park Young-seok
faced rejection after rejection. It was impossible, they said,
to make a battery that would be able to withstand the
South Pole’s harsh climate, even with modern technology.
So Park bought a snowmobile and created his own “eco-
Park climbed up Mount Everest in 2008.

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mobile.” He removed everything except the frame, replacing very highly of our feat, reaching the South Pole by only using accident each time. following the trails and footsteps of others climbers, becoming
the motor with an engine, filling the remaining space with sunlight,” Park said. Park has lost many companions on the mountains, and some of the forerunners of the world mountain climbing
solar-cell batteries. He tested the snowmobile at ski resorts and faced several difficult life-or-death decisions. Among the community. The eco-friendly South Pole expedition was also
refrigerating rooms. It took about eight months to complete. REACHING THE SUMMITS Park’s dream of becoming a peaks, Mount Everest always awed Park. He lost two team an extension of this trend.”
All the foreign explorers at the South Pole Union Glacier mountain climber started in elementary school. He says he members on his Mount Everest expedition in 2007, trying to
Camp were amazed at Park’s creation, and in awe of the still remembers being deeply moved after reading a book by establish a new Korean route on the Southwest face; he had VIRTUE OF RETURNING WHAT YOU RECEIVE Park’s challenges
challenge he would face. Nobody expected Park to succeed in late professor of geography Kim Chan-sam, considered the to turn back 450m from the summit on his second try, at the were not individual feats. They were all possible through
reaching the South Pole without carbon dioxide emissions. first Korean to travel the world. During a time when passports government and local company support, Koreans’ love for
The Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions (ALE) personnel even were hard to come by, Kim traveled around the world for 30 mountain climbing and the passion and perseverance of team
guaranteed failure, promising a bottle of expensive whiskey if years. “My heart started pounding when I read about salmon members. Park established “Korea’s Expedition of Hope,”
Park’s team succeeded. being dried at the North Pole and experiences of eating eight years ago, to teach university students about the spirit
The “green” explorers left the base camp on Dec 19 and minced meat in Africa. I probably read that book more than of challenge. He also created the “Hike for Hope” program,
a hundred times. After that, I knew I wanted to
travel the world,” Park said.

faced numerous unexpected obstacles along the journey. which offers help and hope for disabled children. Park has also
“Climate change brought frequent snowfall, which hindered In high school, Park stumbled upon a parade celebrating worked with senior citizens and troubled youth since 2004.
the recharging of our batteries using the solar cells,” Park said. Dongguk University’s mountain climbing club, which “I am also helping the families of Nepalese Sherpa who
“When we finally charged the batteries the motors would had succeeded in reaching one of the highest peaks in the lost their lives on the mountains,” he said. “I started building
malfunction. After we would take care of the motors the solar Himalayas, the Manaslu (8,156m). “That is when I wanted Park climbed 14 mountain peaks over 8,000 meters, including the school classrooms and donating computers to remote
southeast face of Mount Everest (opposite right, above two). Park
cells started giving us problems. These problems occurred to go to college,” he said. “The only reason I tried to get into used a snowmobile powered by solar energy – a first for a Nepalese village schools last year. I am trying to return the
successful South Pole expedition – in February (opposite left).
because we never tested our eco-mobile out on the field. At college after failing my first year was to join the Dongguk love and help I received domestically and internationally
about 100km outside the South Pole, the weather turned for University mountain climbing club, the cradle of Korean through my climbing career. I established the ‘Park Young-
the worse, allowing the team to advance only 10km and having mountain climbers.” mountain after sudden winds destroyed his equipment in seok Exploration and Culture Foundation’ to systematically
© Park Young-seok Exploration & Culture Foundation

to charge every 20 hours.” Park’s love for mountains deepened after attending Dongguk 2008. Park finally succeeded on his third try and successfully help these charities.” Since his return from the South Pole,
Despite the obstacles, and the harsh elements, the team University in 1983. Starting with the Northern Alps in Japan established a new route in May 2009. Park has been preparing yet another challenge: A new route
reached the South Pole on Jan 28, 2011. This was 41 days in 1985, he successfully climbed the Langtang Ri (7,205m) and Thanks to the efforts of Park and other Korean climbers, the on the South face of Annapurna in the Himalayas.
into their journey battling -30 C weather and blizzards. This the southwest face of Mount Everest (8,848m) in Nepal; the Korean mountain climbing scene has received more respect “After achieving the Adventure Grand Slam, I feel a burden
feat was accomplished on the 100th anniversary of Roald highest point in North America, Mount McKinley (6,194m); from the global community in recent years. As Park said, has been lifted off my chest. Now I can freely look to unknown
Amundsen reaching the South Pole for the first time in 1911 Mount Kilimanjaro (5,895m) in Tanzania; Annapurna “The Korean mountain climbing scene was only starting to routes and climb the summits in different methods never
using dog sleds. (8,091m) and Lobuche (6,171m) in Nepal; and K2 (8,611m) take its baby steps in the 1980s. Koreans started climbing the before attempted. I have survived numerous life threatening
“When we returned to the base camp, the ALE personnel in Pakistan. He has challenged the world’s peaks, summits and 8000m peaks in the 1990s and showing promise. In the 2000s, situations, which I believe means that I still have much more
and foreign explorers prepared a feast for us. They spoke poles about 60 times in his life, miraculously avoiding a deadly Koreans started to pioneer their own trails rather than just to give to the sport of mountain climbing.”

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great korean

Yi Sun-sin is generally accompanied by the phrase “seongung,” fire artillery shells after charging enemy warships. In addition
which means “great hero.” This expression suits the Admiral to creating the ship, Yi developed a new gun that combined
well, as he protected Korea during the Imjin War (1592~1598). the technology of Japanese rifles and Joseon-era guns.
Undisputedly one of the most important figures in Korean The Imjin War broke out in May 1592, and totally 200,000
history, vestiges of Yi’s heroic deeds are easily found in many Japanese troops invaded Korea. Although the Japanese troops
places throughout Korean culture. His portrait is featured overtook Seoul, Yi destroyed about 40 Japanese battleships
on the Korean 100 won coin; his statue stands in Seoul’s at Okpo, Happo and Jeonjinpo, and won battles off the coast
downtown Gwanghwamun Square; a Korean Navy destroyer of Sacheon, Dangpo, Danghangpo and Yulpo. In August, he
was named after him; and his name adorns artistic facilities turned the tide of the war by making a surprise attack on the
and streets. Japanese fleet near Hansando Island. In 1593, Yi was appointed
There are many local festivals in honor of the Admiral, Naval Commander of the Three Provinces (Gyeongsang-
one is the Gunhangje Festival, or Naval Port Festival, usually do Province, Jeolla-do Province and Chungcheong-do
held in Jinhae-gu, Changwon around the end of March or Province) leading the combined navies of the three Southern
beginning of April. The festival was first held in 1952, when provinces. He trained soldiers, expanded armaments, took
Korea’s first statue of Admiral Yi was erected. Also known as care of refugees and promoted economic industries. When
the Cherry Blossom Festival, it attracts more than 2 million the Japanese troops reinvaded Korea, Yi secured victory by Jeollanam-do Province holds a Great Battle of Myeongnyang Festival every
year (above). A statue of Admiral Yi Sun-sin locates in Seoul’s
tourists annually, and flowers are offered in honor of Korea’s defeating 133 Japanese warships with only 13 Korean ships in Gwanghwamun Square (opposite far left).
greatest military hero. Yi’s significance is also visible in Korea’s the Battle of Myeongnyang.
modern-day culture. He appears in many TV shows, movies, Yi’s exemplary and humane behavior stood out during
documentaries, novels and even in online games. times of war, when military commanders had to secure the it contains moving quotes and Chinese poems. “We can live
Yi Sun-sin was born in 1545. At 27, he took a test to become livelihood and resources for military administration on if we are unafraid of dying in battles. But we will die if we are
a military officer, only to fail after falling off a horse. Four years their own. He implemented various plans including fishing, afraid of dying in battles.” This famous quote was recorded by
later, Yi began his military career as a junior officer on the production and sale of salt, managing garrison farms and Yi in a diary entry dated September 15, 1597. He had made
northern frontier. When Yi was assigned to be the commander issuing permits to ships. His love for his country led to his love this remark to encourage his soldiers before taking part in the
of the Left Jeolla-do Province Naval District (present Yeosu), for the people. Yi paid a lot of attention to the people’s safety, Battle of Myeongnyang.
he prepared for Japan’s probable invasion by increasing the especially during times of war, ensuring that they were able to Yi was the greatest hero of the Joseon era. His diary also
fighting power of the Korean Navy, making weapons and make a living by farming and fishing. Yi’s compassion should contains entries that express his love for his mother, and
improving military strongholds. also be noted, as he always let one or two enemy battleships laments feeling like he failed her. Yi felt guilty for having to go
Historical records depict the turtle ship, or geobukseon, as escape, worried of enemy retaliation. to war even after hearing that his mother passed away.
follows: The head of a dragon was placed at the top of the ship A person of high character, never compromised with In 1598, the combined fleets of Korea (Joseon Dynasty) and
near the bow, with the capability to fire cannon balls from the injustice, he pointed out mistakes his superiors or men in China (Ming Dynasty) fought a final battle by launching a

© Yonhap News Agency (above); Korea Minting & Security Printing Corporation (opposite bottom)
mouth. Metal spikes were used to cover the top of the ship power made, often putting himself at a disadvantage. Yi was sudden attack on retreating Japanese troops off the Noryang.
to deter boarding tactics used by the Japanese. Although the even stricter in regard to his personal expectations. He once During the fierce battle, Yi was shot and died on the dawn of
interior was blocked from external view, one could see through asked for punishment for losing a warship during his return December 16, 1598. He was 53 years old. “The battle is raging

Yi Sun-sin to the outside from the inside of the ship. It was designed to from the Battle of Ungcheonpo.
Yi also asked the government to award prizes to his soldiers
on. Don’t tell the soldiers if I die. You should not shock them,”
Yi told his eldest son and nephew, worried that his death

Immortal Hero
who were killed or injured in battle. He offered opportunities might upset his forces.
to render distinguished service to officers under his command, The Battle of Noryang was the last sea battle of the Imjin
and evaluated their performances objectively for fair War and one of Korea’s greatest navy victory. A Ming
Admiral Yi Sun-sin is a historical figure compensation. In addition, he hired engineers from scorned commander praised Yi, naming him “Heaven’s Admiral” in
who’s had a major impact on Koreans. Yi‘s portrait of areas and highly evaluated their achievements. his report to the Ming government. During the Imjin War,
the deceased,
Such anecdotes are recorded in his Nanjungilgi War diary, Yi fought a total of 23 battles against the Japanese invaders,
Not only because Admiral Yi never lost a the turtle-shaped
geobukseon and which documented a period of seven years from the beginning never losing a single one. He distinguished himself by saving
battle during the Imjin War, but also Hyeonchungsa
Shrine appear of the Imjin War to the Battle of Noryang. The wartime diary his country and his people. He was an intelligent military
because of his fearless sense of loyalty, on front and back
details Yi’s personal agonies and military tactics, and enables strategist, a brave leader and a man of noble character.
of the past 500
compassion and modest character. won bill, which is readers to understand the sheer depth of his character. Admiral Yi Sun-sin was, is and always will be an immortal
not in use
by Lim Ji-young | photograph by Park Jeong-roh nowadays (left). The diary is highly regarded from a literary standpoint as hero among the Korean people.

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seoul

You’d be forgiven for assuming the area’s galleries feature the Central Buddhist Museum, Choonwondang Museum
nothing more than conventional paintings based on age-old of Korean Medicine and Bona Museum/Gallery. You will
techniques and traditions, but there is nothing like seeing all definitely discover the pleasure of learning through play.
that Insa-dong has to offer with your own eyes. The galleries Once your pilgrimage to the galleries and museums is
and museums feature contemporary or fusion art that mixes complete, check out other areas of Insa-dong. Ssamziegil, a
the traditional with the modern in ways that immediately grab culture complex of sorts, is perfect for those who love to shop,
your attention. as it is both energetic and traditional. It was named Ssamzie-
Kyung-In Museum of Fine Art is the perfect example of a gil (gil means street) because fashion brand Ssamzie designed
gallery that offers fresh surprises and unexpected exhibition and organized the space. Since this unique complex opened
themes. The exquisite art museum with four exhibition halls in December 2004, it has fascinated and entertained tourists
and an atelier is famous for its superb mixture of tradition and with its colorful attractions that include an organic tea house,
modernism. Its lush outdoor garden and tea house, a favorite mini gallery and craft shops. There are even vendors who help
among tourists, create a calm and surreal atmosphere, in you create your own art. The four-story wooden Ssamziegil
intense contrast to the modern exhibition space. building is a must-see attraction for tourists and was bestowed
Satisfy your thirst for cultural insight at museums such as the honorary nickname “Little Insa-dong.”
Having tea in a traditional tea house or indulging in
authentic Korean cuisine is another experience not to
be missed in Insa-dong. Rather than those eateries that
boisterously call to tourists from Insa-dong’s main street,
we recommend you seek out the hidden gems in the back
alleyways. If you’re ready to try something new, visit Insa-
dong’s Buddhist restaurants, which specialize in tasty and
healthy vegetarian cuisine. If you crave something hearty, take
a chance on Korean traditional barbeque or naengmyeon (cold
buckwheat noodles).
When you’re ready to turn in for the night, nothing will
complete the experience of Insa-dong like spending the night

Insa-dong
Insa-dong is a mecca for Korean art. The surrounding areas of in a hanok, a Korean traditional house. There are several types
Insa-dong, Gahoe-dong, Anguk-dong and Samcheong-dong of accommodation near Insa-dong that range from original
were once home to a nest of affluent families during the Joseon The main street of Insa-dong is always full of visitors experiencing Korean
hanok houses to renovated hanok-style guesthouses. A humble

Where
Dynasty. Items that once belonged to the wealthier citizens of culture (opposite). Traditional souvenirs that you might see on the streets night’s sleep - like Koreans in the olden days - will make
(above left). You can also visit hanok restaurants serving traditional cuisine
Seoul were auctioned off on the streets of Insa-dong, making (above right). Foreign visitors shop for antiques at a street shop (below). your trip to Insa-dong stand out from all the others.
the area a hub for trading art and antiques.

Yesterday
The area first became known for its antique collections
during the 1930s, when antique dealers set up shops and
bookstores on the main thoroughfare. After the end of the

Meets Today Korean War in 1953, Nagwon markets opened and a “rice cake
street” formed near Insa-dong. In the 1980s, more antique
shops, art galleries, special collectors’ shops and craft shops
INFORMATION

INSA-DONG ON THE WEEKEND:


Insa-dong, one of Seoul’s must-see spots, opened their doors, and the street became known as the home
A PEDESTRIAN PARADISE!
offers a glimpse into the city’s past. Find of Korean art.
Though the area is a haven for the arts, Insa-dong’s specialty In the back alleys that have been designated
countless gems hidden in the alleyways, ‘pedestrian-only’ streets, a variety of events
shops, galleries and museums appeal to more than just art
where traditional tea houses and and history lovers. Insa-dong boasts a variety of galleries
and performances are held on Saturdays

restaurants, old-fashioned calligraphy and museums of different themes and sizes, including INSA
(afternoons only) and Sundays. No cars are
allowed to pass through the streets, so
shops and modern art galleries coexist. Gallery, Kyung-In Museum of Fine Art and Gongpyeong experiences like shopping, dining and enjoying
the fresh air become much more comfortable
by Lim Ji-young | photographs by Choi Ji-young Gallery. and relaxing on the weekends.

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24-25seoul.indd 24-25 11. 4. 6. 오후 4:28


travel

A sea breeze makes its way across the


ocean and up the river toward the shores
near Ulsan, gently rocking the bamboo
blades. The breeze follows the bamboo
stalks to the Adonis plants, commonly
found in mountainous areas, which are
the first to blossom with the coming of
spring. The bamboo groves are thick and
block out the sky above, and cover the
area in every direction as far as the eye
can see. Although it seems like a scene
from a scarcely populated area, this
bamboo grove is actually in the heart of
the bustling city of Ulsan.
The Taehwagang River is located on
the southeastern end of the Korean
Peninsula and flows for about 50
kilometers around the city of Ulsan
before emptying into the East Sea. Ulsan
has led the way for the modernization
and industrialization of Korea since
the 1960s, and the city is home to large
industrial complexes specializing in
heavy industries like shipbuilding and
refining. Ulsan played an important role
in the modernization of Korea, where
the expression the “Miracle of Korea” is
often referred to as the “Miracle of the
Taehwagang River.”

REVIVAL OF THE RIVER Fast-paced


development, however, also had its
pitfalls. Like other industrial cities
around the world, pollution took its toll
on the river. As Korea’s roads swelled
with cars and buses and property
development increased, the Taehwagang
River — the lifeline of Ulsan — became
increasingly polluted. Fish species
were wiped out by the contamination,
migratory birds left and the citizens
were left with a foul-smelling river.
© Korea Tourism Organization

People started to appreciate the


Ulsan has led Korea’s industrialization since the 1960s, and for years had a reputation for smog A hiking trail in Ulsan‘s famous Simni Bamboo
Grove near Taehwagang River (above).
importance of the river in 2002, around
and pollution. But over the past 10 years, numerous species of fish and birds have reclaimed their the time of the 2002 FIFA World Cup
natural habits in the area. Ulsan has transformed itself into an ecological city. Korea-Japan. The Ulsan city government
by Chung Dong-muk | photographs by Park Jeong-roh decided they could not exist without

26 | korea | april 2011 www.korea.net | 27

26-29travel.indd 26-27 11. 4. 6. 오후 4:28


and 200 billion won to create an eco- tours run daily. TRAVEL INFORMATION
friendly environment. “We do not encounter whales every
The city was successful in its endeavor. time we set sail,” says Kim Chul-seung, TRANSPORTATION
The BOD (biological oxygen demand) manager of the Jangsaengpo Whale Train You can take the KTX (Korea Train
levels improved from a Grade Six with Museum. “However, we spot thousands eXpress) train from Seoul Station to Ulsan Seoul
Station. There are at least 1-2 trains every hour.
11 ppm quality rating in 1996 to a Grade of dolphins playfully greeting the ships.
One with 2 ppm rating. This turnaround Swimming in the ocean and flying in Bus Buses are available from Seoul Express Bus
also brought wildlife back to the area, the sky have always been the dreams Terminal every 30 minutes, starting at 6am.

transforming it into an impressive of many people, and observing these Ulsan


Airplane Korean Air and Asiana Airlines offer
ecosystem with 430 different species whales and dolphins brings about a daily flights from Gimpo International Airport
of plants and animals, including 48 certain feeling of satisfaction.” in Seoul to Ulsan Airport.

different species of birds and 41 species Tourists who do not spot any whales
ATTRACTION
of fish. Sweetfish, salmon and otters, on their tour recieve free admission Jangsaengpo Whale Museum If no whales are spotted on the Whale Watching Cruise
A resident
enjoys a bike which only live in Grade One water, to the Jangsaengpo Whale Museum. Tour, visitors receive free admission to the Whale Museum. They also recieve a 40 percent
ride along the
Taehwagang
started populating the river. The building itself is in the shape of a discount on admission to the Whale & Ocean Experience Center. For more information, visit
www.whalemuseum.go.kr or call +82 [0]52 256 6301.
River (above). In the summer, 4,000 white herons whale. The museum — the only one of Ticket sales 09:30~17:00
Ganjeolgot,
located near migrated to the river and covered the its kind in Korea — describes in detail Opening hours 09:30~18:00 (closed on Mondays)
Ulsan, with its
fascinating
riverbanks with nests. And as the sun set the life of a whale. Next to the museum Admission Whale Museum (main building): Adults 2,000 won, children 1,000 won
Whale & Ocean Experience Center (annex): Adults 5,000 won, children 3,000 won
ocean views one winter afternoon, 46,000 crows — is the Whale & Ocean Experience 4D Theater: Adults and children 3,000 won
(left). A craftman
of Oegosan which are believed to bring good fortune Center, where a large water tank houses Package Deal: Adults 9,000 won, children 6,300 won
Onggi Village — flew in from the west and blessed the Ulsan’s mascots: Three dolphins named
concentrates on
making pottery citizens with a beautiful sight that only Arong-e, Darong-e, and Kkotbun-e. ACCOMMODATIONS
(below). Olympia Hotel Conveniently located downtown, the Olympia Hotel is close to the
nature can provide. The Taehwagang If calling Ulsan an “ecopolis” with its station, bus terminal and airport. Amenities include restaurants, sauna, barber shop and
River has now become a pivotal part of environmental history and struggles is coffee shop. For more information, visit www.olympiaulsan.co.kr or call +82 [0]52 271 8401.
the city of Ulsan, where water festivals not an exaggeration, there is another
Lotte Hotel Ulsan Located near the Taehwagang River, Lotte Hotel Ulsan offers stunning
and swimming competitions are held place that deserves mention as well: views from its rooms. Amenities include a fitness center, sauna and restaurtants. For more
annually. the Oegosan Onggi Village. Driving information, visit www.lottehotelulsan.com or call +82 [0]52 960 1000.
south toward Busan from Ulsan, you
ENCOUNTERING WHALES Another will encounter a small mountain called
the Taehwagang River and searched reason the Taehwagang River is Oegosan. In the foothills of Oegosan,
for methods to restore its health. The garnering so much attention from 40 master craftsmen make pottery using
city paid substantially for its years of Koreans is in part due to the whale only natural clay, sunlight and fire. The
abuse. After extensive feasibility studies, watching cruise tours offered here. Ulsan pottery has something that modern
sewage treatment facilities were built, borders the East Sea, where the warm porcelain does not: It breathes. The clay
sewer pipes were organized and laid currents during spring and summer that is used to make the pottery forms Jangsaengpo Whale Aquarium at Whale & Ocean Camellia at
underground, and the accumulated attract whales. Prehistoric cave paintings microscopic pores. These pores are Museum Experience Center Daewangam

sludge was dredged from the river in the Ulsan area depict men hunting important for the fermentation process
bottom. Ulsan planned a large bamboo whales — proof of the long connection used to make Korean traditional dishes humidity, the temperature of the fire, hope for the future. With the rising sun,
grove by creating the Simni Bamboo between whales and Ulsan. like kimchi. and the philosophy and the heart of the the morning stars slowly give way to
Grove. Bamboo was planted along Before it was prohibited, one of The pottery is made from clay found craftsman. dawn. A clear and intense scarlet wave
the shore and riverside to help protect the ports in Jangsaengpo, Ulsan, was in the area, naturally dried by the Driving south from the village and of light covers the ocean and land. The
the natural flow of the river. They also infamous for whale poaching. Citizens wind and finished by fire techniques. toward the ocean, visitors arrive at grand sunrise will bring light to the land
created trails for citizens to take a stroll now join whale watching tours to Although the process as described might Ganjeolgot, where the sun rises before and all the wildlife that thrive in the
or ride a bicycle. admire these great mammals. In April, seem simple enough, a meticulous anywhere else on the Korean Peninsula. area. Once again, we realize within this
A total of about 600 billion won (US$ before warm currents have yet to flow science is involved in the procedure in The sunrise, whether it is New Year’s Day “ecopolis” that humans are nothing but a
545 million) was spent on this project: in, whale watching cruise tours are which one piece of pottery depends on or any other day of the year, is known small existence compared to the majesty
400 billion won for water improvement offered once a week. In June and July the the strength of the wind, a difference in to give people new determination and of nature.

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26-29travel.indd 28-29 11. 4. 6. 오후 4:29


now in korea

Through Time:
Café Evolution
It’s not hard to spot a coffee shop or a café in
Korea today. There are even themed cafés that
specialize in helping visitors create special
experiences while providing a fresh café latte or
Americano. The cafés where one simply
enjoyed a cup of tea are evolving into hubs for
crafts, travel, counseling and more.
by Lim Ji-young | photographs by Park Jeong-roh

A flat, silver plate is cut and engraved with patterns. Then, as


it takes the shape of a ring through seemingly effortless skill,
the hearts of a couple seem to fill with joy. This is scene from a
Metal Craft Café in front of Hongik University in Seoul, where
customers can make their own rings and experience metal
craftwork, while enjoying a cup of their favorite tea or coffee.
Park Yoo-geun, the manager of the café, introduces the
place as “A café to enjoy coffee comfortably, a gallery to visit
an exhibition and a space to experience metal crafts.” The city’s
modern-day coffee shops are not just a place for coffee and
good company. Some have become complex cultural spaces.
From book cafés to magic cafés, bed cafés, eco-friendly organic
cafés, fortune-telling cafés, vintage cafés and craft cafés, there
are numerous themes to choose from.
In accordance with the taste of the younger generation —
who choose to pursue something unique and new — cafés that
absorb culture of various genres provide cultural contents far
beyond a cup of coffee.
There are also travel cafés that focus on transporting
customers to another place and time with décor and souvenirs
from exotic destinations. Slides of famous tourist attractions
decorate the walls, visually enhancing customers’ experiences.
“This is a place for those who want to recall memories
Jeongja-dong in Seongnam is famous for
its Café Street, especially for lovers and from their trips or discuss trip plans with others,” explains
social get-togethers (above).
No Geun-young, the owner of Cafe 1010, the travel café. One
corner of the shop is dedicated to travel books, magazines and
photo albums of places No has visited.

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in downtown Seoul. These types of cafés gained in popularity
and began to pop up across the country. These developments
in café culture are closely related to the dense urban scene. In
the suffocating surroundings of the busy city, people wanted
a shelter where they could escape reality and relax, if just for a
moment. These days, coffee is not the only purpose for visiting
a café. People go to take in the cultural elements, and with
that cup of coffee release stress and soak in inspiration and
motivation. In this heyday of the modern café, coffee lovers
may have trouble deciding where to go. Garosu-gil Street in
Sinsa-dong, Seoul, is the front-running café street in Korea.
The cafés there are characterized by foreign influences on
architecture, interior design and café concept as well as menu
options. Book cafés, flower cafés and Japanese-style vintage
cafés are recommended.
Cafés near Hongik University
are more experimental, just like
the streets around it. Since the
first bed café in Korea opened
in the area, many unusual cafés
- including a chocolate café
and loft café - have captured
the curiosity of the younger
generation. The quality coffee is
an added bonus to these cafés.
Also, relatively reasonable prices
make the experience even more
(Clockwise from top) Most of the
Within that complex café culture, psychological cafés Jeongja-dong cafés have open-
pleasant. cafés look similar to each other. That experience inspired me trade increases, more people are willing to pay more for fair
predict people’s fortunes. Different teas are served according air tables which are pleasant for Samcheong-dong is to open this unique café,” says Kim Se-young, owner of Stefani trade coffee, which is purchased directly from the growers
chatting; there are several book
to the fortune, providing a shelter-like atmosphere for the cafés in Garosu-gil Street, Sinsa- synonymous with Koreanized Café on Garosu-gil Street. The café recently opened its second for a higher price than standard coffee, to promote healthier
mentally exhausted. dong; cafés are a familiar place cafés, which are clustered in location. It attracts a certain type of customer with its eye- working conditions and greater economic incentives for
for chocoholics; cafés also offer
an appropriate place for the area’s maze-like alleyways. catching menu that includes fair trade coffee and organic, producers.
working.
CHIC CULTURE CAFÉ The first-generation cafés in Korea Some of them even provide homemade cookies.
were Dabang, meaning “tea rooms.” Most Dabang in the mini galleries featuring art “We try to use as many organic ingredients as possible, as INFORMATION
1980s hired DJs to attract young people, and Dabang DJs collections. Even the signboards of the cafés look different in well as fair trade coffee. Customers have become more aware
became the icons of youth culture. Since the mid-2000s, Samcheong-dong. Jeongja-dong in Seongnam, southeast of of the value of the money they spend. For them, it is worthy of HOW TO GET TO THE CAFÉ STREETS
Dabang have been replaced with specialized coffee shops, Seoul, is proud of its own Café Street, where most of the cafés spending money on fair trade coffee.” 1 Samcheong-dong Take Subway Line 3 and get off at Anguk Station, exit
the second generation of cafés. Many coffee shops opened one have quaint porches with shaded areas that infuse the streets According to Kim, one of the trends in modern cafés is No1. Walk 10 minutes in the direction of Jeongdok Public Library.
after another, but they eventually began to close because of with exotic fragrances. From a 24-hour café to a flower café offering coffee and other products that are both eco-friendly
2 Hongdae (Hongik University) Take Subway Line 2 and get off at Hongik
the appearance and ambiance of the third-generation cafés, that gives customers potted plants to take home, Jeongja- and sustainable. It’s not as difficult as it once was to find a University Station, exit No 9. Walk straight until you see the main entrance of
known as fusion cafés, a place regarded as a chic meeting point dong’s Café Street is among the most popular. Its upscale café that offers fair trade coffee. Organic coffee cultivated in Hongik University.
among young people. interior design and romantic atmosphere suggestive of streets accordance with organic farming standards, without the use of
3 Garosu-gil Street Take Subway Line 3 and get off either at Apgujeong
In the late-2000s, coffee shops that evolved into fusion cafés in Vienna make for a one-of-a-kind setting. artificial fertilizers or pesticides is the most sought after coffee Station (exit No 5) or Sinsa Station (exit No 8). Whichever you choose, walk for
were upgraded to culture cafés, the fourth generation of cafés as customers become more conscious of the environment about 10 to 15 minutes. It may take a little longer from Apgujeong Station, but
in Korea. Culture cafés provide cultural experiences related to ECO-FRIENDLY CAFÉS “While I lived in Sydney, I used to and their own health. If organic coffee is regarded as the it’s easier to find.

art, music and movies, combined with a cup of coffee. In the visit several interesting cafés around my house. All of them best option, fair trade coffee is seen as the second best for 4 Jeongja-dong Café Street Take the Bundang Line to Jeongja Station, exit
beginning, fourth-generation culture cafés could be seen only looked so different from each other. I wondered why Korean conscientious coffee drinkers. As public awareness of fair No 4. Walk straight down the street for about 100 meters.

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my korea

My family and I drove up Mount Washington once when I was not include mountains. The trip started out great with lots of snacks and light
young, although I don’t really remember the visit. I only know I guess I started noticing that I was living in the midst of a conversation with new friends. I just knew I was going to
we made the trip because my brother stuck a bumper sticker massive city among mountains when I first moved to Itaewon. love hiking! We arrived at the mountain at daybreak. Please
that we got on that trip on the mirror of my bureau. I was My new apartment was just a 10-minute walk from the base of keep in mind that it was January and my first time hiking a
forced to go through all of high school looking in the mirror Mt Namsan. I took a walk through the park one day, detoured mountain other than Mt Namsan. I didn’t know it, but I was
and seeing a “This car climbed Mount Washington” bumper onto a little trail through the woods that led on up to the peak in for a surprise. Wearing old sneakers, cotton sweatpants and
sticker plastered across my forehead. The point of this story is and suddenly I realized I’d been missing my old friend Mother not nearly enough layers, I quickly got uncomfortably wet and
that I was never really into mountains. Nature! How relaxing! How peaceful! What’s that smell? What freezing cold. Not only was it unbelievably cold, but it was
So when I moved to Korea and found out that its geography smell? I don’t smell anything. Oh, you mean the fresh, clean air nothing like a hike up my perfect little Mt Namsan.
comprises 70 percent of mountainous terrain, it didn’t register smell! Yes, heavenly! I realized that I loved being able to escape There were ropes we had to climb, chains we had to hold
in my head what that really meant. I knew mountains were to this sanctuary in the middle of all the city chaos. onto so that we wouldn’t fall 100 meters down a rock face to
out there, but I just thought those mountains were over in Thinking that I was a real mountaineer after taking several our deaths. There was ice, so much ice, as there also happened
Gwangju or Daegu or some other far-off sounding “gu.” walks to the top and hosting the odd picnic here and there up to be a sudden freak blizzard when we got to the top so we
I only saw markets, saunas, sidewalks, subways, Noraebang on Mt Namsan, I was convinced to join a trip organized by a couldn’t even enjoy the view we had worked so hard to see.
(Korean karaoke) and street foods. I had come to Seoul to hiking group my friend found on Facebook. We all gathered The hike took eight hours both ways. It’s 800 times longer
get out of the country. I was sick of living in the woods! I was at the meeting place at 11pm and climbed onto a bus for a six- than my typical jaunt up and down Mt Namsan. I can say with
reinventing myself as a city girl, a modern hour drive to Mt Wolchulsan in Jeollanam-do Province (the confidence that the hike was a complete disaster.
woman! My Seoul experience would southwestern corner of the Korean Peninsula). Until the end. The glorious end! Once we made it down

DISCOVERING
Mountain hiking experience started when Michelle
Farnsworth moved to Seoul, even though she grew up in
New Hampshire, a state famous for its peaks. Korea filled
with countless hiking opportunities, it’s the perfect place
to explore the beautiful mountains.

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34-37my korea.indd 24-36 11. 4. 6. 오후 4:30


of socks, and multiple reserves full of water.
I had no idea how I was going to carry all of this stuff up the
mountain. I looked ridiculous, but no one would ever say that
I was unprepared.
We arrived at Mt Seoraksan around 2am. Kevin convinced
me to leave about 75 percent of my supplies on the bus, but
I kept the essentials and a few extra items. We put on our
headlamps and started heading up the mountain. That’s
the only way I can describe the beginning of the hike,
“up.”
Although it was intimidating and tough, and
there were some ropes and chains we had to use,
we had a big, supportive group with all different
levels of hikers and we all made it to the top. We
stopped for breaks and snacks along the way,
and I was surprised that I was generally having
a pretty good time. It was dark, quiet, fresh
and clean. Night hiking by headlamp … an
experience only found in Korea!
Around 8am we reached the peak. But wouldn’t
you know, it had started raining and we couldn’t see
the landscape around the mountain. Again! No view! The rain great panoramic view of the city, Mt Cheonggyesan is a solid
was coming in from all angles. But oddly enough, in my hot morning stair workout and Mt Bukhansan has enough trails
and takes advantage pink waterproof rain coat and, in my opinion, cute purple to keep you busy for a month of Sunday hikes. Hiking around
of hiking them every waterproof hiking boots, the situation was funny rather than Seoul is an easily accessible escape to the outdoors and has
chance he gets. exasperating and discouraging. A great anecdote to tell friends contributed greatly to the quality of my life and experience in
So when he suggested that we later, instead of a disabling longing to lie down and wait to get Seoul.
join another hiking group and hike airlifted from one of the helicopter pads. Just get on the subway, or head to the bus stop and follow
Mt Seoraksan in Gangwon-do Province, We rested in a little camp near the peak, and shared snacks the Koreans with the hiking sticks and backpacks. Get yourself
the mountain, we slowly gathered our cold, wet, I agreed that it sounded like a lovely idea and that I and stories. We were exhausted, but accomplished. We were some gear, and get out there! by Michelle Farnsworth | illustrations by
shaking, shivering selves at a little non-descript restaurant at couldn’t wait. “What?!” you may ask in surprise, “After your soggy, but happy. Jo Seung-yeon | photograph by Park Jeong-roh
the foot of the mountain. Ajumma (a name given to middle- horrible hiking experience, hiking Mt Seoraksan sounded When we finally got to the bottom around noon (10 hours
aged Korean women who have grown children) had wood lovely?” later), we found ourselves a little restaurant with an ajumma to
stoves burning where we could warm our hands. They cooked “Well,” I say to that, “You know how it is when you start feed us some scrumptious fried seafood pancakes, warm tofu
us hearty and delicious spicy dakbokkeumtang (Korean-style dating someone: ‘Sounds great, honey!’” and freshly fermented kimchi. Of course, we imbibed in a little
chicken stew) and served us life-giving, mood-lifting, soul- By this time I had also realized the reason Mt Wolchulsan of the Korean hiker’s nectar: makgeolli. This time, I swore I
soothing makgeolli (Korean rice wine). I’m not sure I would be hike had been such a hiking disaster, was simply because I would definitely be hiking again.
alive to tell you this story today without the warmth, food and had not been prepared. I needed the proper gear, and I was It is amazing to me now how blind I was to the mountainous
makgeolli at the end of that hike. Despite the good eats at the determined not to let the same unpreparedness ruin this trip landscape when I first arrived in Korea. When I look out of PROFILE
end, I swore I would never, ever hike again! to Mt Seoraksan (or my new relationship for that matter). almost any window in Seoul the first thing I see now, is a
But then, as it always does whenever I say “never,” it came I headed over to the hiking section of Namdaemun Market mountain or even a whole range of mountains in the not-too- Michelle Farnsworth is an
and bought hiking boots and clamp-ons (snow chains American who has been living
back to bite me in the proverbial buttocks. My buttocks far distance. Are you in Seoul now? Look outside. Look right
in Korea for eight years.
were bitten, so to speak, when I met Kevin, who is now my and spikes for the bottom of your shoes), hiking socks, a now. I bet you can see at least one mountain. She is the Foreign Client
boyfriend, a few months later. Kevin loves mountains, hiking, rain jacket, a headlamp, quick dry shirts and towels, and While I still love visiting Namsan, the thrill is checking out Relationship Manager at the
waterproof gloves. When we gathered at the meeting place at Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center.
running and all the gear that goes along with it. He has never the many different mountains in and around Seoul. Kevin and
She can be reached at
tried rock climbing but he already knows he loves that too. He 11pm to get on the bus to Mt Seoraksan, I had a backpack full I regularly travel around Seoul to climb different mountains farnsworth@shinhan.com.
loves the many easily accessible mountains in Seoul’s backyard, of snacks, several additional layers of clothing, about 12 pairs during all weather conditions. Mt Gwanaksan provides a

36 | korea | april 2011 www.korea.net | 37

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special issue

level of 91.4%, comparatively higher than that of the two


competing cities. The central government also expressed its
support for the bid as President Lee Myung-bak hosted a
welcome reception for the delegation, and Prime Minister Kim
Hwang-sik hosted a welcome dinner, affirming Korea’s hopes
of winning the bid for the 2018 Winter Olympics.
Commission Chairwoman Gunilla Lindberg said at the IOC
press conference, “I must also mention the passionate support
of Gangwon-do residents.” On Feb 20, as the IOC Commission
members were leaving Korea, around 8,000 residents
formed a human chain from Songcheon Bridge to Hoenggye
Interchange, waving goodbye to the delegates. Though it Young athletes show their support for the 2018 Winter Olympic bid
failed in its two previous bids for the Winter Olympics, (opposite). Residents of Gangwon-do Province sing a welcome song for
the IOC Evaluation Commission members on Feb 18 (above). The IOC
PyeongChang has not given up on its goal. Instead, through commission make an inspection for Alpensia Ski Resort‘s ski jump
lounge on Feb 17 (below).
continued efforts, it has worked to make improvements to its
infrastructure.
In October 2000, PyeongChang first appeared on the it was also important to prove to other countries that Korea is
international stage by announcing its wish to place a bid for competitive in winter sports. So the Korean government, along
the 2010 Winter Olympics. Then an unknown city to many, with various public and private enterprises, extended their
PyeongChang competed against eight others and made the support for the improvement, promotion and invigoration of
three-city shortlist. During the first round of votes at the winter sports.
IOC session in Prague, PyeongChang surprised everyone by As a result, Korea ranked fifth on the medal table at the
coming in first. In the second round, however, the Korean city 2010 Vancouver Winter Olympics – its best performance at
lost to Vancouver. the Winter Olympiad to date – earning gold medals for short
PyeongChang gained confidence and made its second bid track, speed skating and figure skating (total medal count: six
years later. Of the seven cities bidding to host the 2014 Winter golds, six silvers, and two bronze medals). Korea also earned
Olympics, PyeongChang again made the shortlist with two four gold medals in skiing at the 2011 Asian Winter Games in

Third Attempt for the others. Though it came in first in the first round of votes,
PyeongChang lost to Sochi, Russia, in the second round.
Astana and Almaty, Kazakhstan – its best performance to date
in skiing. These are all examples of how the Korean people

Winter Olympics
In September 2007, PyeongChang announced its wish to are exerting their efforts to become united in their hopes to
bid again for the 2018 Winter Olympics. In September 2009, host the 2018 Winter
it was selected as one of the three final candidate cities for Olympics.
PyeongChang is gearing up for its third bid to host the Winter Olympics. Results from the Olympics, along with Munich and Annecy, France. In
the IOC Evaluation Commission’s on-site inspection of PyeongChang in February March 2010, PyeongChang became involved once again in the
showed bidding preparations were going well. by Kim Hyeon-jin bidding process by turning in the candidate file to the IOC.
PyeongChang has undertaken thorough preparations for its
third attempt. During the IOC site inspection four years ago,
The people of PyeongChang will continue to exert their efforts difficult to determine which city stood out most to the visiting the city had only secured the area for the stadium on an empty
as representatives of the Korean people, in order to win their IOC committee, but it’s believed that PyeongChang captured piece of land. But this time around, the IOC delegates were
bid to host the 2018 Winter Olympics – the winner of which the attention of the delegation, particularly because of the able to see the actual facilities. In all, seven of the proposed
will be announced in Durban, South Africa, on July 6. upgraded infrastructure since their previous bids and the 13 competition venues had completed development. The
In February, the IOC Evaluation Commission conducted delegation’s previous on-site inspections. accommodation facilities and transportation networks were
on-site inspections of the three candidate cities to host the During the inspection, more than 1,000 residents also well structured.
© Yonhap News Agency

2018 Winter Olympics - Annecy, France; Munich, Germany; and students gathered along the streets surrounding the In addition, PyeongChang has staged the Dream Program
and PyeongChang, Korea. competition venues, expressing nationwide support for the bid annually since 2004, a promise made to the IOC that it would
The three cities underwent fierce competition to by waving their hands and warmly welcoming the delegation. carry out during its first bid.
demonstrate to the Commission what each could offer. It’s This public showing was symbolic of Korea’s national support To ensure the success of the PyeongChang Winter Olympics,

38 | korea | april 2011 www.korea.net | 30

38-39special issue.indd 28-30 11. 4. 6. 오후 4:30


summit diplomacy

PRESIDENT LEE MYUNG-BAK‘S


VISIT TO THE UNITED ARAB EMIRATES President Lee Myung-bak scored an oil
development deal that will see 1.2 billion
barrels of crude oil (worth about 132
President Lee Myung-bak paid a visit to the United Arab Emirates (UAE) from March 12 to trillion won) flow into Korea. President Lee
signed the deal in Abu Dhabi, United Arab
14, upon an invitation from President Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan. During his visit, Korea
Emirates, a battleground for major players
won an oil development deal in Abu Dhabi that will see Seoul secure a total of 1.2 billion in international oil. The deal comes on the
barrels of crude oil, worth roughly 132 trillion won (US$116.6 billion). The deal is one of heels of a nuclear power plant construction
great significance for the president and for Korea. by Kwon Kyeong-hui agreement worth US$40 billion completed
in December 2009. President Lee’s back-to-
back coups in energy diplomacy has further
fortified the strategic partnership between
the two countries.
On March 13, President Lee attended a
summit with President Khalifa bin Zayed
Al Nahyan in Abu Dhabi. The leaders
shared the satisfaction of having improved
bilateral ties since establishing a strategic
partnership in December 2009, and held
President Lee Myung-
in-depth discussions on cooperation in bak, middle left,
energy, construction, defense, public receives the Zayed
International Prize for
health, medicine and the environment on the Environment
both regional and international platforms. from UAE Prime
Slightly more than a year after the UAE Minister Mohammed
bin Rashid Al
government named Korea Electric Power Maktoum, middle
Corporation (KEPCO) as the developer of right, on March 14
UAE nuclear plants in December 2009, the (opposite). President
Lee smiles after the
two countries broke ground on the new ceremony held on the
reactors. The two countries also agreed same day (above).
to remain in close consultation to ensure Korea and the UAE
agreed to sign a
construction of top-quality nuclear plants. bilateral document
President Khalifa expressed his gratitude on oil and
to President Lee regarding Korea’s cooperation (right).

dispatch of the Akh military unit to the


UAE. The leaders also agreed that they on cooperation on new growth engines. Since signing the nuclear power plant
should further strengthen their strategic Korea becomes the first country in deal in late 2009, Seoul and Abu Dhabi
partnership through the Akh unit, which almost 40 years to sign an oil development have steadily improved their strategic
means brother in Arabic. deal with Abu Dhabi since the Emirate economic ties, and Korea was able to
closed its oil fields to outsiders in the 1970s. build on that partnership to enter the
KOREA-UAE SIGN DEAL FOR OIL Abu Dhabi has the world’s sixth-largest UAE oil fields.
DEVELOPMENT, NEW GROWTH ENGINES volume of oil reserves, and has one of the The Abu Dhabi deal is for 1.2 billion
President Lee met with President Khalifa richest fields in Middle East, the area which barrels, which is more than 10 times larger
and Crown Prince Mohammed bin Zayed holds 57% of all reserves in the world. For than Korea’s second-biggest oil deal with
that reason, only a selected number of oil Vietnam. By becoming the fifth country
© Seoul Economy Daily
Al Nahyan of Abu Dhabi, and signed three
major deals covering oil development — majors have set foot there, including the to gain access to Abu Dhabi’s oil, Korea is
memorandums of understanding (MOU) on US, Britain and France — which made their looking to become a major player in oil.
oil and gas, and a deal on three oil fields — way in the 1930s and 1940s — and Japan, The oil field in the UAE deal is the
and future growth engines, with an MOU which arrived in the 1970s. single-largest field that Korea has ever

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40-43summit.indd 40-41 11. 4. 6. 오후 4:31


acquired and it is said to contain more President Lee, left, the category of global leadership at JAPANESE TSUNAMI
chats with the UAE
than half of what Korea has secured in a ceremony at the Dubai World Trade
President Khalifa bin
about 60 occasions over the past 30 years. Center on March 14. The award, launched
Separately, Korea signed another deal on
Zayed Al Nahyan,
right, on the way to in 2001, is named for former President PRESIDENT LEE URGES “touched” upon witnessing the calm reaction and
poise of the Japanese in the face of the major
three undeveloped oil fields. According to
the summit
Sheikh Zayed Bin Sultan Al Nahyan, who INTERNATIONAL AID disaster. “Every country will think highly of Japan’s
the Korean government, the two countries
conference on
March 13 (right). helped turn the desert country into a UPON JAPAN QUAKE disaster prevention system, and the way they’ve
agreed to build storage in Korea to hold President Lee, left, green state. It recognizes those for their handled the aftermath.” President Lee stated that
gives his sincere At every opportunity he had during his UAE considering the situation in Japan, the
6 million barrels of Abu Dhabi oil and condolences to
international environmental achievements.
stay, President Lee urged Koreans, Korean groundbreaking ceremony in Abu Dhabi was toned
allow Korea to use the oil when necessary. Masatoshi Muto, The ceremony was attended by about
Ambassador of immigrants and the international community down. He also began his acceptance speech of the
Korea will save 700 billion won in costs for 1,000 people, including Hereditary Prince
Japan in Korea, to show compassion and support for Japan, Zayed Prize with condolences to Japan, saying,
stockpiling oil. about Japan‘s of Dubai Hamdan bin Mohammed Al
devastated by a massive earthquake and “Boundaries have no significance in the face of
Korea’s energy self-sufficiency ratio for tragedy on March 18 Maktoum; Oktay Tabasaran, secretary subsequent tsunami on March 11. In a meeting natural disasters. As a neighbor of Japan, we will
oil and gas is also set to rise from 10.8% to (opposite). general of World Water Forum; and Klaus with Korean residents in the UAE on March 14, try our best to help our fellow mankind in difficult
15%, as President Lee took another step Töpfer, former executive director of the UN President Lee explained the depth of Japan’s times. I urge the international community to come
toward meeting his pledge of hitting the Environment Programme (UNEP). suffering after the quake and tsunami, and said together to help get Japan back to normal.”
20% mark during his administration. The President Lee was recognized for his that it wasn’t just a problem for Japan, but that President Lee also placed a call to Japanese Prime
deal also brings some stability to Korean achievements in green growth and the every nation should step up to help Korea‘s Minister Kan Naoto from Abu Dhabi offering to
national energy security amid an unstable development of new growth engines to neighboring country. send in a rescue team. During the press conference
President Lee said there’s nothing humans can after the Korea-UAE summit, President Lee
international crude oil market. respond to climate change as well as job
do to avoid natural disasters and added, discussed his phone conversation with Prime
creation. The panel of judges said Lee’s
“When humans have been hit by disasters, the Minister Kan, “I was impressed that the Japanese
PRESIDENT LEE HELPS DAVID BEAT vision and leadership have been critical rest of the world should come together to give people have responded to the disaster in a calm
GOLIATH President Lee’s moves behind to turning the Korean economy into one help and offer deep condolences. We have to and mature manner. On behalf of the Korean
the scenes were said to have had a critical and Vision at the core, and preliminary National Oil Corp., invited UAE officials to of low-carbon and high efficiency. They do even more for Japan because we’re close people, I would like to offer my condolences to the
impact on signing one of the largest oil talks with Abu Dhabi began. go skiing in Korea during winter. took note of his pioneering role in green neighbors.” The president said he was people of Japan.”
development projects in the Middle East. Abu Dhabi wasn’t so keen at first to Concrete negotiations took place policy in the international community since
Korea was the proverbial David against the discuss oil field-related business with ahead of Lee’s UAE trip. The MOU on the introducing his green growth strategies,
major players in global oil. But thanks to Korea. When talks were going nowhere, undeveloped fields was upgraded to head aimed at sustainable long-term growth,
the trust the UAE has developed in Korea President Lee himself stepped in. When of terms (HOT), and an MOU was reached in August 2008. In his acceptance speech,
over the years, Korea was able to stage Crown Prince Mohammed, who has had on development of an oil field worth at President Lee asked people to share his
an upset. For the past year, Lee, under the a close relationship with the president, least 1 billion barrels, so as to avoid having dreams and visions of green growth as a
tightest of security, had been leading oil visited Seoul in May last year, Lee said double contracts with majors already response to climate change, one of the
field negotiations with the UAE, and his it was an important starting point in involved in the business. main challenges facing mankind, and to
staffers say whenever the talks hit a snag, bilateral cooperation for the UAE to give During his summit, President Lee noted build “a plant-responsible civilization.”
President Lee dealt directly with Crown Korea, which has no oil reserves, a chance the steady progress of their bilateral President Lee pointed out the UAE,
Prince Mohammed. to develop oil fields. Kwak Seung-jun, nuclear cooperation, and the two leaders once a desert country, and Korea, once

© Seoul Economy Daily (above); Yonhap News Agency (opposite)


It was after reaching the nuclear power chairman of the Presidential Council for agreed to maintain close cooperation to devastated by war, both believed in
plant deal with the UAE in December 2009 Future and Vision, went to Abu Dhabi ensure the best nuclear power plants. the power of their dreams to achieve
that President Lee apparently developed eight times as special envoy, and on UAE also agreed to participate in eco- prosperity. He also said that with the
an interest in the oil fields. But those seven of those trips, President Lee sent a friendly projects by Korea’s Global Green opening of the GGGI office in the UAE,
within the Korean government weren’t so personal letter. During a press conference Growth Institute (GGGI), set to be the first people should be more humble before
convinced. following the Korea-UAE summit on March international agency headed by Seoul. Mother Nature and together lay the
KEPCO is just 77th among oil companies 13, Lee said the process resembled “a 007 groundwork for new and sustainable
in the world and it was considered reckless operation.” PRESIDENT LEE WINS ZAYED PRIZE FOR THE prosperity.
to be challenging international powers Abu Dhabi began to open up, first ENVIRONMENT Another feat was the praise As a former CEO of Hyundai Engineering
in Abu Dhabi. But Lee called for more by signing an MOU on rights to three President Lee received for being an eco- and Construction, President Lee played an
optimistic and proactive thinking. In undeveloped oil fields in August. Kwak, friendly leader. President Lee was named impressive role in building a Korean legend
February last year, a task force was formed along with officials for the Ministry of the winner of the Zayed International in the Middle East, thus creating special ties
with the Presidential Council for Future Knowledge Economy and the Korea Prize for the Environment. Lee won in with the UAE.

42 | korea | april 2011 www.korea.net | 43

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global korea

KOREA’S IT SYSTEM EXPANDING


WORLDWIDE E-Government system exports have seen
steady growth since 2006. The market stood
other government institutes, delivering
customized information for each company’s
at a mere US$9.87 million in 2007, but over needs.
Utilizing IT technology to enhance administrative efficiency is a major tool the the past three years, that number has at With the system, it takes less than 2
least doubled annually, reaching US$150 minutes to clear export customs, 2.5 hours
government employs to raise competitiveness in the 21st century. Korea’s advanced
million, or a 223% increase from the year for import customs, 5.2 hours for tariff
e-Government system topped the UN Global E-Government Survey, prompting global before. From 2002-10, Korea exported 15 refunds and 10 minutes to pay taxes,
interest in Korea’s tech-savvy techniques. The Korean-style e-Government system will systems worth US$297.2 million to a total which makes it one of the most successfully
provide a new challenge for domestic IT companies, while also helping spread the of 23 countries. managed customs service information
word about Korean administrative culture to overseas companies. by Lee Se-mi Systems for a variety of fields, including system among the World Customs
those for tariffs, procurement and Organization’s 176 member countries. UNI-
Automatic ticket machines by Samsung SDS in
patents, which can be internationally PASS was presented with the ‘eAsia Award’
Guangzhou, China, 2007 (opposite). Samsung
generalized and standardized, are actively SDS lauched Mer-Link, an electronic procurement from the Asia Pacific Council for Trade
exported. Ecuador’s electric customs system, in Costa Rica last year (above). Facilitation and Electronic Business (AFACT)
Vietnamese governors got a meeting with
clearance system, Indonesia’s electric Korea‘s officials from PPS (below).
in 2007, and has earned the international
patent application system, Bangladesh’s
national telecommunications system, Mali’s
government management network, and Sri
Lanka’s tariff system are good examples.
Such a rise in overseas exports
of e-Government systems can be
attributed to an increase in interest
in Korea’s e-Government programs
ever since it was ranked No 1 on the
UN Global E-Government Survey. It is
also due to support of exports through
inter-government cooperation and
improvements on IT companies’ overseas
marketing environment. At the same time,
it is a reflection of Korea’s development
of Information & Communication
Technology (ICT) that provides a basis for
e-Government. At the moment, Korea is
working with 43 countries to help them
establish e-Governments and providing customs clearance system in 1998. It was standard of ISO 20000 in the management

© Samsung SDS (opposite, top); Public Procurement Service (right)


support in the combined format of then developed into an online customs sector in 2006. Its excellence was further
overseas exports and information on public clearance system in 2005 so that it could noted when it was ranked as the world’s
development funding programs. be used anywhere, anytime conveniently top system in the Trading Across the
and cheaply. UNI-PASS has employed and Border category of the World Bank’s
EXPANSION OF EXPORT ROUTES The integrated seven systems related to trade Doing Business 2010 assessments. Thus, the
Korea Customs Service’s Universal Pass, customs: an export customs system, import interests and needs of developing countries
known as UNI-PASS, is often mentioned customs system, tax collection system, increased, adding energy to the export of
as a successful example of Korea‘s trade freight management system, refund the system.
exportation of administrative system. The system and unified customs channel Starting in October 2005, when a
Korea Customs Service has continuously system. Furthermore, it is an intelligent contract was signed on digitalization of
promoted the computerization of network that connects 110,000 customers, Kazakhstan’s BPR/ISP sector of custom
customs affairs since 1992. It was the including trade and shipping companies, management, exporter countries are
first nation to establish a 100% electric custom services, bonded warehouse and expanding into Central and South America,

44 | korea | april 2011 www.korea.net | 45

44-48 global korea.indd 44-45 11. 4. 6. 오후 4:31


While past UNI-PASS exports to the The Korean government has so far charge. Windows 98/2000 from Microsoft SEOUL’S INTELLIGENT TRAFFIC SYSTEM
Dominican Republic and Guatemala were provided consultations in four areas of task Korea, a word processor from Hancom, Seoul is the leading city in the world of
supported by domestic grants and credit redesigning, training, list information and Computer Aided Design (CAD) software e-Government. In the UN’s biennial Global
assistance, construction of Ecuador’s US$24 inspection. Korea signed an agreement from Intel Korea, Namo Web Studio (a E-Government Survey on the top 100 cities,
million e-customs system was executed with the Mongolian government on the web editor program) from Sejoong Namo Seoul was chosen as No 1 consecutive
purely through its own funding, making it same system, e-procurement establishment, Tour, KOSNET program from National times since 2003. According to the World
an actual acquisition of foreign money. in 2007. Institute of International Education and a e-Government Assessment Council,
Nara Marketplace, part of Korea mental arithmetic soccer game from Korea Seoul has the most outstanding web-
Public Procurement Service, is another SUPPORT FOR EDUCATION RELATED IT Education Frontier Association are the based administrative services among 100
internationally recognized e-procurement PROGRAMS OF DEVELOPING COUNTRIES software provided to developing countries. metropolises.
system. Nara Marketplace is a unified Meanwhile, the Ministry of Education, In its early stages, e-Learning In 2004, when Seoul actively became
channel for Korea’s public procurement Science and Technology (MEST) is globalization projects provided involved in exporting e-Government, Lee
that handles the entire procurement supporting developing countries reassembled computers, but now new Myung-bak, then the mayor of Seoul and
process of registration, bidding, contract wishing to digitalize their education PCs, laptops, ICT packages (projectors, current President of South Korea, visited
and payment online. It is used by more system. The support program is a part digital cameras, laptops) are supplied and Moscow and signed an MOU on the
than 40,000 public institutions and of the Development and International construction of ICT centers are provided e-Moscow project modeled after Seoul’s
190,000 enterprises. The system gives all Cooperation on e-Learning Industry by the education authorities of cities and e-Government system.
information on procurement services in real strategy that started in 2002 and has been provinces depending on the country’s The limelight is on the intelligent traffic
Central Asia and Africa. In July 2010, time, securing transparency and cutting praised by the international community. conditions. system that covers IT-based transportation
the e-Customs system was established costs on procurement transactions. To globalize this web-based e-Learning Korea’s e-Learning support program cards, integrated billing and metering
as part of Mongolia’s customs services. Nara Marketplace, a public procurement Korea program, Korea is providing used is expected to contribute to close the systems and traffic information centers.
Taking Korea’s electric customs system as service, was first set up in 2002 and through PCs, e-Learning training, international information gap among countries by
its model, Mongolia has finished setting consistent upgrade it has been recognized consulting, international exhibitions and elevating ICT utilization in developing
up five systems for freight management, worldwide by such organizations as the conferences as resources for developing countries. In the future, e-Learning is Minister of Public Administration and Security
trade customs, data warehouse (DW), risk UN and OECD. Most recently, high-ranking countries. People from more than 60 expected to provide customized consulting Maeng Hyung-kyu, right, looks through the
Smart Electric Government Exhibition, which was
management (RM) and Internet customs officials from overseas are increasingly nations will visit Korea yearly to benchmark services to those countries actively held in Central Government Complex in Seoul in
portal system. So far, Korea Customs Service visiting PRS. This is due to a recent need in the e-education system. requesting consultations. December 2010 (below).
has opened up new markets in Central these countries to enhance procurement From 2005-10, MEST provided 18,481
and South America by helping Dominica transparency in regard to funding through reassembled PCs to 23 countries and
and Guatemala establish new systems, T-money, a smart ticketing system of Korean international organizations, adding value e-Learning training for 2,717 teachers and
public transportation from Seoul, exported to
and has actively promoted system exports to Korea’s world famous e-procurement education administrative staff members
Wellington and Auckland in New Zealand in 2008
by providing consultations to Central (top, above and below). system, Nara Marketplace. from 29 countries, including Cambodia,
Asian countries such as Kyrgyzstan and Based on such assessments, Nara Mongolia, Vietnam, Kazakhstan,

© Seoul Metropolitan Government (left); Yonhap News Agency (opposite)


Kazakhstan. Marketplace was exported to various Uzbekistan, Kenya and Guatemala.
In December, a US$24 million contract countries, starting with a demonstration International consulting support was
was signed with Ecuador’s customs service case in Vietnam in November 2008, then to provided in 12 exchange partner countries
institute to export UNI-PASS. Ecuador’s Costa Rica in 2009 and Mongolia in 2010. to set up e-Learning policies from 2006-10.
e-customs system will be set up over the In Vietnam, the demonstration system, The PCs were donated from education
course of two years, and will include major including user registration, announcement, institutions when they replaced their
systems needed for customs service such bidding and commencement, was set up computers. They were reassembled using
as trade customs, tax collection, trade in three institutions: The City of Hanoi, the Pentium III-level parts so as to ensure they
freight management, tax evaluation, tax Electric Power Corporation and Telecom were fit to be used educationally, and
refund, risk management and integrated Corporation. It began to fully operate Korean software was installed. As both
management of tariff information. The services last July. domestic and international IT companies
system will be modified and redesigned Mer-Link was launched in August 2010 are enforcing cooperation with such
according to the local environment, in Costa Rica, where the Costa Rican projects, many companies actively took part
following analysis of Ecuador’s customs government signed a contract in 2009 in the support for developing countries
management process. agreeing on e-procurement establishment. and have provided related software free of

46 | korea | april 2011 www.korea.net | 47

44-48 global korea.indd 46-47 11. 4. 6. 오후 4:31


Azerbaijan recently opened TOPIS
(Transport Operation & Information
Service), a center that manages and
operates general traffic conditions. Seoul
TOPIS is in charge of management and
operation of monitoring traffic on major
roads of Seoul, city bus services, unmanned
camera systems and more.
Seoul’s T-money transportation card
system was exported to Wellington, New
Zealand, in 2008, then to Kuala Lumpur,
Malaysia, in 2010. Currently, more than 400
buses in Wellington are running on the
T-money transportation card system, and
these cards are also used in about 200 retail
shops as methods of payment. The system
is also in the process of being installed onto
about 1,000 buses in Kuala Lumpur to be in
service later this year.
The T-money card is a RF (radio
frequency) typed contactless card that can
be used at a distance of 3cm without any
power source. More than anything, the
transportation card system makes it possible
to systematically collect and analyze data
on card usage, which can result in scientific E-GOVERNMENT INTELLIGENCE In order The Chinese governor from Shandong visited
to promote e-Government as a next- Gangnam-gu Office in Seoul to research the
establishment of transportation policies.
office’s Electronic Government System in May
In the case of Seoul city, for instance, generation export item, the Korean 2010 (above).
a daily average of 35 million pieces of government has been commercializing
public transportation usage data obtained efforts by providing intellectual property
through the T-money transportation card rights of e-Government to export Director General of IT Promotion
system are used as basic information to set companies, supporting e-Government Shim Duk-sup from Ministry of Public
up scientific traffic policies. The number of framework development, providing Administration and Security says, “Due
passengers in each bus section, the fastest documentation of e-Government systems to the topography of overseas markets
and slowest speed of different times, travel and more. for e-Government, domestic IT companies
distance of passengers and number of An MOU has already been signed with need to make sales to foreign governments
transfers are all included in this database, Brunei, Bulgaria and the Inter-American that call for inter-government cooperation.
and are used as valuable information to Development Bank. An IT Cooperation In the future, cooperation projects will
Seoul city’s public transportation policy Council was held with Vietnam, Bulgaria be expanded centering on government
that includes route adjustments, frequency and Kuwait to promote collaborative collaboration projects, to achieve US$200
of bus dispatches, route management and projects. In addition, information resource billion in export of e-Government systems
fee adjustments. centers were set up in Bolivia, Kyrgyzstan by 2011.”
Such an outcome of Seoul’s public and Rwanda. Support is provided in Overseas exports not only earn foreign
© Yonhap News Agency

transportation policy has attracted conjunction with e-Government export currencies but also play a big role in job
benchmark visits from more than 1,000 of digitalization ODA projects, including creation and enhancing Korea‘s image in
people from 30 countries, including invitations of more than 200 IT specialists IT. Much is anticipated in Korea’s future as
overseas civil servants and traffic specialists from 43 developing countries to participate an IT power player with effective use of
aiming to transform their traffic systems. in special programs. e-Government.

48 | korea | april 2011

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11. 4. 6. 오후 4:26

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© Choi Ji-young

4월호엽서.indd 1
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4월호엽서.indd 2 11. 4. 6. 오후 4:26


korean heritage

The Royal Ancestral Ritual in Jongmyo Shrine and its Music


The Jongmyo Shrine in Seoul is the setting for a Confucian ritual
dedicated to the ancestors of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910)
that encompasses song, dance and music. The ritual is practiced
once a year, on the first Sunday in May, and is organized by the
descendants of the royal family. The ritual was inscribed in 2008
on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Heritage of
Humanity (originally proclaimed in 2001).
© Topic Photo

표3.indd 2 11. 4. 6. 오후 4:32

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