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letterfromeditor
A bright
new journey
Some might argue jewellery is not a necessity, and they would probably
be right. Nobody actually needs jewellery – even if you think you do!
However, we want jewellery, and desire has proven to be almost as powerful
as necessity. We crave that special something that reflects who we are, that
represents a defining moment, or that helps send a message about what we
want in life.
It is that feeling that propels me into this great new adventure called
Canadian Jeweller. As its new Editor, I am ready to be amazed and inspired
by your stories, delighted by your jewellery and creativity. I’ll be your voice
and your advocate.
Carlos Weigle
Please join me. It will be an honour to be in your company.
Carlos Weigle
Editor
18 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 | www.canadianjeweller.com
20 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 | www.canadianjeweller.com
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September
Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair
19 - 23 September 2011
AsiaWorld-Expo • Hong Kong
Diamonds, Pearls, Gemstones, Equipment and Packaging
21 - 25 September 2011
Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre
Fine Finished Jewellery
www.JewelleryNetAsia.com
Spring Fling
Coloured stones, flowers and bows are some of the
stars’ top choices for the season. By Bonnie Siegler
28 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 | www.canadianjeweller.com
5/11/11 9:34:44 AM
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Crimes against jewellers decrease in U.S. the jewellery industry would increase in an ON OUR RADAR
The total number of crimes against the fine economic downturn. He points to several
jewellery industry in the U.S. decreased by 4.5 per economically driven key factors that helped:
cent in 2010, according to the Jewelers’ Security fewer retail stores as targets, since many had
Alliance. In its 2010 Annual Crime Report, JSA closed, fewer traveling jewellery salespersons on
reports total dollar losses of US$81 million were the road, and lower inventories in retail stores.
suffered by victims, which represents a decrease According to the report, grab-and-run crimes
of 17 per cent from 2009. continued to be one of the most frequent
“The cumulative effect of taking hundreds of crimes against the industry, with 359 reported
jewellery criminals off the streets year after year to the JSA. Burglaries, with 312 crimes, are not
has had a strong impact on reducing crime,” says far behind.
JSA president John Kennedy. Increased efforts
by the FBI and local law enforcement agencies Interpol tracks Basel thieves
resulted in the arrests of 538 criminals who Four diamonds worth US$10 million were stolen
attacked the industry in 2010. Kennedy adds that at BaselWorld in March, and international police
increased information-sharing by jewellers and the agency Interpol has released photos of suspects,
police regarding suspects, crimes and scams, as taken by surveillance cameras at the show. The
well as the impact of JSA’s local Crime Prevention diamonds were stolen from a booth in Hall 3.0,
Networks Project also aided in deterring crime. while an employee was distracted by one of the
Kennedy notes that the decreased crime rate gang members, according to a report on Antwerp
MCD Pearls Ad layout 1/20/11 6:09 PM Page 1 GIA improves pearl testing
contradicts popular wisdom that crime against Facets Online.
The Gemological Institute of America says
it has introduced significant advancements
in its pearl testing process, using highly
advanced micro-CT X-ray units that
produce high-definition 3-D images of
individual pearls. These new units enable
GIA to rapidly gain fully rotational 3-D
images of the internal growth structures
of pearls in just 15 to 20 minutes; older
units take three to five hours or more. This
new technology enables GIA laboratories
to assess much larger groups of pearls
more quickly and in greater detail than any
previously employed technology.
“We are confident these state-of-the-
art units will give unparalleled service
to the pearl industry,” says Tom Moses,
For details, write #119 on Free Info Page, page 96
38 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 | www.canadianjeweller.com
Watches/Jewellery at auction diamond and the 69-carat Taylor-Burton Tokyo Diamond Exchange president Michio
The Sotheby’s April watch and clock auction diamond, a gift from Richard Burton. Christie’s Iwasaki reported on the state of the diamond
in New York totaled US$5.8 million. Highlighs New York auction in April totaled US$31.7 industry in Japan following the disastrous
include a Patek Philippe 18k yellow gold million. The top lot was a rectangular-cut, earthquake and tsunami that struck the
perpetual calendar chronograph, and a musical D-color, internally flawless, 37.16-carat country last month. “The disasters had a
singing bird automaton clock with hour and diamond, which sold for US$4,450,500. big influence on the diamond and jewellery
half-hour striking, made by Piguet & Meylan industry of Japan, he said. “Department and
and Frederic Rochat, circa 1828 – each of which Fund to help victims; aftershocks in retail stores shortened their business hours
fetched US$302,500. Tokyo and all the jewellery exhibitions in Tokyo were
The Sotheby’s jewellery sale in Hong Kong in A group of jewellers and jewellery canceled. Almost all of the Indian diamond
April netted US53.5 million. Highlights include: organizations have launched a fundraising dealers in Tokyo closed their offices and
a 25.5-carat, D-color flawless diamond, organization to help the victims of the tsunami returned home and have not come back yet.”
which sold for US$5.1 million, or US$200,000 and earthquake that hit Japan in February. Iwasaki added that the diamond market in
per carat; a pair of Harry Winston diamond Jewelers for Japan is asking jewellers and Japan has dropped to about 30 per cent of what
pendant earrings weighing 36.4-carats, which consumers to donate scrap gold and silver it was before the earthquake and that sales
sold for US$2.4 million; and a 26.67-carat jewellery, which refiner Rio Grande will at one of the largest jewellery chain stores
Burmese ruby cabochon and diamond ring convert to cash without a refining fee. All dropped 50 per cent after the earthquake
by Bulgari, for US$2.4 million. Meanwhile, proceeds will be donated to the Red Cross and but most probably that figure is even lower. “It
Christie’s is set to auction the jewellery owned earmarked for Japan relief. For information, certainly will take some considerable time for
by Elizabeth Taylor, who passed away in March. contact www.jewelersforjapan.org. the Japanese jewellery and diamond industry to
Among the jewels are the 33.19-carat Krupp At the recent WFDB President’s Meeting, recover,” Iwasaki reported.
SILVER
has nevertheless cautioned its members against dealing in diamonds from the region. “As you know,
ST
SY
For details, write #121 on Free Info Page, page 96
M TH E S Y
there have been alleged human rights abuses, as well as legal issues surrounding diamond production
STE
JEWELLERY from this region,” says CJA president David Ritter. “As such, we urge all CJA members to practice
M TH E
SYS
LOCKETS CUBICS... influence, to protect the integrity of the diamonds they trade in. This includes requiring your suppliers
SY
DISPLAYS to provide additional written reassurances, beyond the World Diamond Council’s (WDC) System of
EM
E
H
T
Warranties statement, that the diamonds they supply have not been obtained in violation of applicable
T
H
E
EM SY
ST
national laws and/or sanctions and have not originated from Marange, Zimbabwe. Until there is
STE
M T HE S Y
further progress made on the various issues surrounding diamonds from the Marange region, CJA
THE SYSTEM recommends that members do not trade in these diamonds.”
Ritter notes the association continues
TOLL FREE 1•800•661•4460 to support the KP, working with the Canadian government and other key stakeholders to prevent any
1670 MILLS RD, SIDNEY BC V8L 5S9 further damage to consumer confidence in diamonds. [CJ]
40 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 | www.canadianjeweller.com
5/11/11 9:56:03 AM
benchfeature
Tight
and Bright
Vector tightening is an excellent technique Gemstones that become loose in their settings can cause damage to the gem
to put loose gemstones back in place and the prongs trying to hold them or can ultimately become dislodged
and lost. When viewing a jewellery piece with a loose gemstone, inspect
BY DOUGLAS HALL, WITH MARK B. MANN
it to determine that it was properly set to begin with. If it was, regular
inspections can catch the problem in the early stages, before any damage
or loss can occur.
42 CJ J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 1 | WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM
The bearing for the gemstone was The bearing does not conform to the The prong depth was
cut larger than its diameter. gemstone crown, girdle and pavilion. overcut and is too thin.
The setter cut the bearing (where The bearing should be precise and in full Thin prongs will open easily
the gemstone resides) too large. No contact with the crown, girdle and pavilion. during normal wear and cause the
method will tighten a gemstone There should be no visible space. gemstone to become loose.
when the bearing is too big.
44 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 | www.canadianjeweller.com
There are other errors in prong workmanship that can contribute to loose
gemstones. The prongs are:
• Not fully bent onto the crown of the gemstone.
• Too thin at the top and provide little or no security.
• On a very sharp angle – 30° or less will easily bend on impact.
First, thoroughly clean the mounting. Next, gently squeeze the two prongs
on the upper right side (1, upper and lower right) toward each other. Next,
do the same thing with the prongs on the lower left side (2). As you squeeze
the prongs toward each other, they will “slide” around the contour of the
gemstone. Don’t squeeze too hard – just reduce the distance between the
side prongs by roughly one-third.
At this point, the space between the top right prongs and the bottom left
prongs should appear too large, and the space between the prongs on the
right and left sides should appear too small.
Next, squeeze the side two prongs (3, upper right and lower right) toward
each other so they end up with what looks like the original spacing. Repeat
with the opposing prongs (4). Then repeat (5, and then 6). The gemstone is
now tight and the prongs evenly spaced around it.
Moving the prongs in two directions provides tension and they become
somewhat spring-loaded to hold the gemstone securely.
WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 1 CJ 45
Canada:
A Gem Nation?
Even though diamonds take the spotlight, our country produces some other amazing stones
By Duncan Parker
T
wenty years ago, anyone in the gem trade would raise their gems for decades. Sadly, many of them are not considered economically
eyebrows if you said Canada was a gem-producing nation. “What viable to mine. Nevertheless, some gems manage to “make the cut.”
gems?” they’d ask.
Nephrite jade, for instance, has been mined in British Columbia for centuries,
Canada is known internationally as a country of “hewers of wood and being used for tools by local First Nations peoples due to its strength and
drawers of water.” We produce natural resources that aren’t known for toughness. In the last century, it’s said that Chinese workers in the Fraser
their beauty so much as their practicality. Minerals such as manganese, Valley recognized nephrite among the pebbles and boulders in the river and
titanium, iron and beryllium don’t sound very exciting, and are primarily sent this rough material to China for carving and processing into decorative
mined for manufacturing. For the most part, we export raw materials and items such as polar bears and penguins. B.C.’s nephrite jade is collected along
import manufactured goods. the Fraser River, and is sometimes removed by helicopter to the factories
where it is sawn and prepared for sale. There are some companies that make
However, in the few short years since Canada’s first diamond mine, Ekati, tiles of this green gem in Canada. B.C. jade is sold all over the world.
opened in October 1998, our country has become an important gem
producer, mostly thanks to its four current diamond mines – Ekati, Diavik, Ammolite is also a gem known to every visitor to our country. Unique
and Snap Lake in the Northwest Territories, and Victor in Ontario. to Canada, ammolite is found in fossil beds in Alberta and the brilliantly
Even though diamonds get all the press, Canada has been producing other iridescent ammonite shell has been commercially mined since the 1970s.
46 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 | www.canadianjeweller.com
RAHUL KADAKIA.
Here, Christie’s Senior VP, Head of Jewelry Americas,
shares priceless insight into the jewelry business
and the value of an expert education.
A master eye for gems … born or made? Coming from four generations of jewelers undoubtedly piqued my interest in this great business. But one needs to
constantly train their eye by looking at gems – the more you learn, the better you will be at identifying and pricing gems, as well as being an effective salesperson and
well-rounded businessman.
Something most people don’t know about you. GIA is what brought me to Christie’s. After studying in Santa Monica, I attended a GIA Career Fair where I had
my first interview with the company.
Ok. Definitely a story there? I started work when I was 17 and five years into it, I thought I knew pretty much everything there was to know … until I enrolled at GIA.
The Institute’s meticulous training and high standards exposed me to a whole new world of expertise.
Ultimate sales edge … emotion or expertise? Jewelry is an emotional shopping experience, but expertise plays a decisive role. It’s wonderful to show people
a brilliant diamond, but it means more when you can follow up with a skillful explanation of the 4Cs exemplified in that particular gem.
Lean economy. Less jewelry? At the nexus of the downturn in late 2008, we sold the Wittelsbach Blue Diamond for $24 million, a world record price back then
for any gem ever sold at auction. When you have great gems and jewels, the money makes itself available.
Any advice to the up and coming? Don’t lose the passion that brought you to this business, and above all,
keep learning every day.
GIA gratefully acknowledges those who, for 80 years, have used our resources to further
world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU
AGENCY: The Shand Group, Chris Weakley 805 969 1068 x113 PRODUCTION CONTACT: Melissa Helvey 805 969 1068 x119
CanadianJeweller_FNL.indd 1 3/9/11 9:35 AM
ADVERTISER: GIA ISSUE: Canadian Jeweller
CJ.Apr_GIA.indd 1 5/11/11 9:57:59 AM
gemologyfeature
48 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 | www.canadianjeweller.com
Miner for a day garnet) is actually found at Asbestos, Que., and the cinnamon-coloured
Speaking of which, fee collecting is another way to make a Canadian gem hessonite garnet is found at Mont Ste Hillaire, Que. These gems are rare
source economically viable. In the Okanagan Valley in B.C., for example, Bob and important collector specimens from Canada, but are actually also very
Yorke-Hardy discovered opal (yes, in Canada!), and though the mine isn’t able wearable.
to produce huge quantities of the gem, it’s able to support a business, including
a fee for collecting system. The way this works is that the visitor pays $50 and On the east coast, we have a gem that bears the name of its origins: Labradorite.
can collect for the day, taking away as much as 2.5kg of material. Some of the This gem, found of course in Newfoundland and Labrador, is an iridescent
opal really is very pretty, with good flashes of mixed bright colours. stone that looks translucent and grey, but has a blue to green reflective flash,
like a moonstone. This gem is mined on a small scale in Labrador.
In order to have a viable fee for collecting business there must be enough
material to support it, it must be near to roads so that visitors can get there, Another couple of gems that bear local names are perthite and bytownite,
and the gem material should be recognizable so the visitors can find it. named after both Perth, and Bytown, Ont. Perthite has a light, whitish grey
Fortunately, opals fit the bill. colour with a blue iridescent flash. Bytownite can be transparent and is
sometimes faceted as a light yellowish gem.
Some gems are not accessible or don’t look like much when they are in the
ground. Identifying them requires specialists, such as Wilson. In fact, it’s We all know Canada is a vast and diverse country and can yield so much by
possible to purchase Canadian gems he has found, collected and polished. way of wealth. We also know that this great country offers some of the finest
The gems he carries aren’t in huge quantities or calibrated in sizes, they gems in the form of diamonds, yet it is equally exciting to learn that it hides
are more one-of-a-kind and often unusual, like scapolite from Kimmirut, these secret caches of other gems that are worth looking into and marketing
in Nunavut. Demantoid garnet (yes, the most collectible and costly green as our own. [CJ]
For details, write #125 on Free Info Page, page 96
www.canadianjeweller.com | j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 CJ 49
e 96.
His started, as it often happens, with his parents. His father, Lloyd,
was very sick when he was young. “After he left the hospital,” recalls
David, “he was told he wouldn’t be able to walk. Against all odds, he
learned how to walk again. He trained as a watchmaker and was so
determined that he left his crutches behind on his first day at work.”
A watchmaker was born. Lloyd was also someone who could lift his eyes
from the workbench and envision a life in the jewellery business. “He
always wanted to have his own store,” says David. “As a kid, I remember
he would constantly be looking at different places to open one. Dad
ended up seeing a place in Markham, on the main street. It was an old
shoe store that had originally been a bank. He ended up buying the
property, renovating it and putting an addition in the back, since we were
going to live upstairs.”
The first years were not easy; when the store first opened, David was going
to school, doing the odd jobs and living with his father in Markham while
his mother remained in Toronto. The passion for watchmaking and fine
craftsmanship was passed on to David, yet he explored other options. In
high school he was specializing in electronics. As he recalls, “I could just
see the advancement in that field, switching from tubes to transistors. I
could also see the transistor would only be temporary, before something
else came along. I then realized I didn’t want to be in a field that was
constantly changing. Who knew that jewellery and watches would change
as much as they have!”
54 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 | www.canadianjeweller.com
That, added to his mechanical skills and family background, put David back
in the path of becoming a watchmaker. He started working with jewellery,
training in the store, and discovered he actually enjoyed it. Following in his
father’s steps, he enrolled to learn the trade at George Brown College in Toronto,
later rounding out his education with a scholarship program with WOSTEP in
Switzerland. He later became an instructor at George Brown College.
Just like Lloyd, David wanted to have his own store, which he opened,
along with his wife Janet, in 1978. The chosen location was in Stouffville,
Ont., not too far from his father’s original store. Both stores bore the
“When we sell Ontario
name Barthau Jewellers. “We ran them independently but together,”
explains David. “We’d advertise together and if somebody wanted to
diamonds, we’re able
return something to my store that they’d bought at his store, I would
accept it.” Of course each one of them had his own management style,
to sell something that is
yet that didn’t create any conflicts. “We always got along quite well,” socially, environmentally and
says David.
economically advantageous.”
Such a strong legacy was bound to go on. Darren, the eldest of David
and Janet’s three kids, decided to join the business. Surprisingly, his parents
were not thrilled at first. They talked to him about the really long hours,
especially over the holidays, when everyone is celebrating, as well as other
challenges that come with the territory. Nevertheless, Darren had already
acquired a taste for jewellery and watches and couldn’t be dissuaded. He did
his formal training at George Brown College and the resident program at GIA
in Carlsbad, California. Of course he also learned a lot just by being around
his parents in the store. “He’s now a Master Graduate Gemologist and he really
excels at what he does,” says David.
www.canadianjeweller.com | j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 CJ 55
To keep abreast of the trends, styles and business practices you have to be involved, and David
credits that to their close to 30-year involvement with both the Canadian Jewellery Group (CJG)
and the Independent Jewelers Organization (IJO), the networking and training – as well the Internet
discussion channels – for helping them move forward.
Creating something from scratch or giving an old piece a new lease on life is what makes David’s
eyes light up. “We design and create. I enjoy taking an old piece of jewellery and modifying it. I
remember we once took an old watch and turned it into a pendant – it was a phenomenal piece.”
Things have definitely changed, from a technical standpoint, since David learned the basics with
his father. Even though he still uses the workbench Lloyd had, he’s also incorporated the latest
technologies into creating beautiful jewellery. “I’ve been using computer-assisted design and
milling for the past five to eight years. These are great tools, since we can show the customer an
image of what we’re going to make for them before we even start working in metal.”
Customers’ needs have also changed. “When dad started the business, there was a lot of giftware
and figurines, along with the watches and jewellery.” They’re better informed and more demanding.
They’d also rather buy local, even when it comes to jewellery. As David puts it: “Today, when we sell
Ontario diamonds, we’re able to sell something that is socially, environmentally and economically
advantageous. Also, when you’re dealing with Victor (Ontario) diamonds, you know you're getting
only the top 10 per cent, so when a customers buys one, they know it’s more of a premium diamond.”
David proudly says that he owns the 51st certified Ontario diamond. He and Janet have also visited
the Diavik diamond mine in the Northwest Territories. “It was quite an experience that we were
later able to relay to our customers.”
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The jewellery landscape has also changed significantly. “To compete today
you’ve got to have the brands and products people want. Yet you want
to be able to sell something you can stand behind. When customers
come into the store, they want an experience,” says David. He notices
that “these days, younger people want larger diamonds – and to pay less
for them.” He acknowledges the spectacular rise of Pandora – “it reminds that’s been a family heirloom and bringing it back to life. Also redesigning,
me of the charm fever of the ’70s” and points out the success of the ELLE taking a piece, keeping its original intent and making something new out
jewellery line. of it. That’s kind of fun!”
Customers want convenience as well. That’s what made the Barthaus move, Actually, when you’re David Barthau, there is something better than that:
a few months ago, from their downtown Stouffville location to one with helping those in your community. Eleven years ago, the jeweller started,
better access, lots of parking and surrounded by other big stores. “Our look along with the local Lions Club, the Lions Vision Screening program for
is also more modern,” adds David. That is evident when you go into the children. “That’s probably the biggest project I’ve been involved with,” he
store, a bright, open and sophisticated space. Gone are the creaking floors admits. The program has successfully detected children with previously
and the “character” of the old store where they spent the last two and a half undiagnosed vision problems who were wrongly believed to have learning
decades. There’s an inevitable hint of nostalgia in the air but there’s also the disabilities.
sense that the new location is going to improve their customers’ shopping
experience. In spite of the new environment, the Barthau’s dedication The Barthaus have also been involved in other community projects, such as
remains strong. “We are in a small town,” explains David, “and if you are Wings of Freedom (an organization that helps abused women) and Charity
not reputable, you won’t be in business for long.” Angels, as well as sponsoring Whistle Radio, a local community radio
station. David’s efforts haven’t gone unnoticed: last year he was the recipient
Adapting to rapidly-changing times is essential to keep you in any business. of the first lifetime achievement award given by the Whitchurch-Stouffville
Keeping the passion alive is probably equally important. “For me, it’s the Chamber of Commerce.
satisfaction of having someone wear something that we made, a symbol of
their love, one that will be cherished by a family for generations. I mean, what The family tradition goes on. The hours spent trying to find the perfect
can be better than that?” asks David with a smile. “Or even restoring a piece shape for a ring or getting lost in the intricacies of a watch mechanism were
well spent. The eternal search for beauty and the struggle to find balance in
an unbalanced world will never cease. David Barthau and his family know
all of this well. It’s in their blood, after all. [CJ]
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Jewellery
Rainbow Collection.
redefined
recession, a few trends begin to emerge.
Perhaps most significant is that the classics
– a “safe” route throughout the recession–have taken
a back seat. And in their place: unconventional
designs. According to retailers, designers and other
industry experts, as the economy shows signs of
recovery, the consumer mindset on fine jewellery
2011’s top trends . . . with staying power for 2012 has shifted, repositioning non-traditional designs
firmly up front. With this emerging desire for non-
By Lorraine DePasque
traditional, the design community has responded
by originating collections with new alloys, unusual
metal mixes and gems not recently seen in fine
fabrications.
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“Collector” Cachet
Meg Henne Gibson, owner of Henne Jewelers, Pittsburgh, Pa., says, “Now
is the time to look for out-of-the-ordinary collector-type pieces. For the
past two years, consumers have focused on price point, but now they will
be actively searching for something more expensive, as long as the pieces
are unusual, valuable and collectible. We’re seeing that our clients demand
Alex Sepkus and other collector pieces – and it has made us realize that, as
a retailer, we need to get out of our comfort zone of thinking our customers
are still overly price-conscious.”
KEY CLASSIFICATIONS:
> Ultra-long necklaces: 40- to 72-inch lengths for layering and wrapping, usually featuring bold gemstone colour and large ornamental sections of
metal, some with matching bracelets to add length.
> Bracelets: Three types, including: cuffs that aren’t bulky, often in paper-thin metal or with cutouts; bangles in medium widths, not as thin as
before; designs with interchangeable elements.
> Coloured-stone Fashion Rings: Many one-of-a-kind styles, frequently with textured surfaces and bezels. Great attention to details.
> Linear Drop Earrings: Thin, not quite touching the shoulder, usually with gumdrops of color at bottom.
> Pendants: Medium-sized, particularly in darkened non-precious alternative metals, palladium and ultra-high-karat yellow gold touches.
www.canadianjeweller.com | j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 CJ 59
Metals: Mixed and Darkened gane technique. He typically mixes silver with 18k
That said, one of this year’s biggest stories is mixed yellow gold, 22k “lemon gold,” steel and palladium. “I
metals, often precious mixed with alternative metals, like the look of palladium white gold,” he says, “because
including titanium, stainless steel and bronze. From I don’t have to plate it in order for it to be white.”
new, proprietary alloy mixes to creative combinations
of three, four and more different metals on a single piece, At this time, palladium is positioned to become even
such innovation is, in fact, creating an exciting chapter in stronger in the coming year, as Palladium Alliance
the industry as a whole. “Designers are doing things International is currently developing plans to launch
like alloy exploration to set themselves apart,” says its largest-ever U.S. trade and consumer marketing
Johngren. “Innovators like Pamela Froman, Aaron campaign to promote palladium jewellery. It will
Henry, and Gurhan give them a new palette to highlight designers who are embracing the precious
explore.” Gurhan, known for his signature 24k metal – which (at press time) was little more than
yellow gold, introduced a collection in Basel that half the price of gold.
marries his 24k with patinated cast bronze.
Non-traditional bridal
“Gold mixed with other metals continues to be a big When talking trends, one of the notable directions
trend this year, given the volatile metals market, says is unconventional bridal – in the metals, the gems and
Cindy Edelstein, president of the Jewelers Resource Bureau. the styling. Edelstein says, “Contemporary metals, such
“And we’re seeing fine jewellery retailers open to lots of new as titanium and cobalt alloys, are getting stronger in the bridal
ideas like this, which will give them fashion and creativity at affordable market.” Elizabeth Mandros Miller, owner of Mystique Fine Jewelry Design
price points – for example, under $1,500.” in Alexandria, Va., says that with the growing popularity of darkened
surfaces, she’s even selling wedding bands with oxidized gold finishes. “And
Quebec’s Pierre-Yves Paquette of Pierre-Yves Joaillier, Saint-Sauveur, our customers, particularly younger ones, like unusual cuts, for example,
Que., agrees, saying when he exhibited at the Buyers Market of American rough diamond centres.” Anne Sportun says her rough diamond centre
Craft Show in February, this is what jewellers were really interested in, bridal designs are also popular. “But this year, I can’t keep up with the
especially pieces with more silver. “And they like the oxidized silver – more demand for our engagement rings with diamond slices, including milky
toward black – with touches of karat gold,” he says, “and my pieces that whites, grays and browns.”
mix blackened steel.” The blackened direction is very strong, underscores
Edelstein. “It started out small a few years ago, but now it is one of the most Even if the stone is a more traditional round, says Pierre-Yves Paquette,
important looks in jewellery fashion.” “The younger generation just doesn’t seem to want a traditional colorless
diamond centre anymore.” One of his best-selling engagement rings over
Paquette creates pieces that are fashion-directional and, at the same time, the past year has been a handcrafted mokume gane design that – in mixes
highly collectible, as they’re often handcrafted by the artist in the mokume of different metals – is set with a champagne, blue or pink diamond.
60 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 | www.canadianjeweller.com
A Colour Explosion
With all precious metal prices hitting new price highs, a huge focus of new
collections is on coloured stones – and especially huge stones. Many of
the gems being used are those not widely chosen by contemporary fine
jewellery designers in the recent past – sugilite, aquamarine, and green
opal, for example. As you shop for the fall and holiday seasons, keep in
mind three gem colour stories: green, blue and purple. Within those, watch
out for some of this year’s favorites:
GREEN: Chrysoprase, moonstone, tourmaline, prehnite, fluorite (green
quartz), fancy sapphire, green opal, green garnet and jade.
BLUE: Aquamarine, tourmaline, turquoise and sapphire. Lapis (if
designers can get it) and moonstone and labradorite (both huge last year)
are still appearing in some collections.
PURPLE: Sugilite, violet quartz, lavender jade, fancy sapphire and
eggplant-hued Tahitians. And amethyst, as always.
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you a rea
i t i e s i n
op por tun
c a l l fo r
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N
ew ideas are link rose quartz bracelet, 7.5” collections worldwide. They found just
certainly risky – that with Claire Vessot. The Montreal-
you venture into based designer managed “to interpret
uncharted waters and, every market in a way that worked,”
even if you have a great says Frick-Milan. “They also wanted to
concept in mind, there’s make sure that when you see a jewellery
no way of knowing piece, you know that it’s ELLE.” The
how the market will award-winning designer made the ELLE
react to it. Starting with brand recognizable with the way she draws
a well-recognized brand is inspiration from everyday items. As Frick-
a good first step, yet it offers no Milan puts it “she sees beauty in everything.”
guarantees. So when ELLE – the
world’s largest fashion magazine – Pricing, packaging, design and materials are the
decided to create its own sterling silver key elements that made the ELLE brand distinct and
jewellery brand, some had their doubts. recognizable. Bold reds represent the brand’s trademark color,
in addition to the signature genuine ruby incorporated into the
In 2002, ELLE partnered with Dallas-based company, Prime Art and Jewel, design of each and every ELLE piece. “We also work with a lot of semi-
to make this vision a reality. Founded by Felix Chen in 1976, PAJ is one of precious stones,” explains Frick-Milan, “such as black onyx, rose and smoky
the world’s largest jewellery manufacturers and distributors, with offices quartz, mother of pearl…”
in New York, Dallas and Toronto – which was established in 1997 with the
purchase of Bijoux Continental. A fully integrated jewellery company, PAJ’s Another element that helped put customers at ease was the fact that ELLE
strengths in design, production, and distribution of sterling silver jewellery Jewellery started making rhodium-plated pieces, which protects against
made them the perfect fit for expanding the ELLE brand into the world of tarnishing. That initiative started in Canada and was afterwards adopted by
fashion jewellery. the U.S., when they realized how that plating choice provides the benefit of
low maintenance for customers.
The ELLE jewellery line was launched in Canada in 2003, but not without
challenges. “Back then, the thought of sterling silver in a jewellery store was Even though PAJ’s private brand business is still doing extremely well –
almost unheard of. Most jewellers didn’t think silver fashion jewellery was the company has clients such as Wal Mart, Zellers, The Bay, Sears and The
such a great idea, and customers wanted gold, since that was the precious Shopping Channel – the ELLE Jewellery line has been a constant reason for
metal of choice. But, once they saw the actual items and recognized how joy. “It grew 25 to 30 per cent every year over the last three years, and we’re
beautiful and well made they were, the retailers were easily won over,” recalls expecting a 15 to 20 per cent growth in 2011,” says Frick-Milan. It has also
Mary Frick-Milan, PAJ Canada’s Vice President of Sales & Marketing. In been a positive influence for other reasons. “We never had a jewellery line
spite of the difficulties, there was something unique about ELLE Jewellery that was as fun to sell as ELLE,” she admits. “We’re passionate about the
that allowed it to stand the test of time. product, we love it, and we wear it. So, I think it makes it an easy sell.” [CJ]
From that point on, the ELLE Jewellery brand soared to new heights. From
being just a small percentage of PAJ’s total revenue in Canada, it soon became
a major part of it (the rest is composed by PAJ’s department store private ELLE Jewellery “Reflections”
Collection, sterling silver
brands). Pricing was also a deciding factor in the brand’s success. With most ring and wide cuff
pieces averaging $100 – $200, it suddenly became affordable to own well-
designed, precious metal jewellery. As Frick-Milan explains it, “it filled a gap
in the market, since there were no jewellery lines that made sterling silver
pieces with the type of fashion appeal that ELLE had: we were able to offer
something that no one else could, at prices people could afford.”
EVERYTHING IS BEAUTIFUL
Design, of course, was also crucial. ELLE wanted to find someone who could
bridge the North-American/European divide and be a passionate drive for its
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XX-XX.CJ_BaselWorld.indd 66
A Vintage themes and new technologies
dominate Baselworld 2011 while the
watch industry celebrates the return to
record sales.
WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM
BY CARLOS WEIGLE WITH OLIVIER FELICIO IN BASEL
5/12/11 5:22:06 PM
baselfeature
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I
n today’s world, words have certainly become devalued, while numbers after two particularly positive months at the start of the year. And they
seem to provide reassurance and speak louder than anything else. So were certainly fulfilled.”
while many analysts touted Baselworld 2011 as an undisputed success
and proof that the recession is over – at least for the global watch industry Canadians who attended the show also agree. “There was certainly a
– the annual Swiss show had some numbers to back that up. positive buzz at Basel,” confirms J. Kevin Kaye, president of Citizen Watch
Company of Canada (read our interview with Kaye on page 32). Kaye also
A total of 1,892 exhibitors enthusiastically welcomed a crowd of 103,200 confirms the main trends observed in Basel: “New technologies abound.
visitors (up 2.5 per cent compared to last year and the second best result of There was also more of a resurgence of simple, classic designs.”
all times) and 3,055 media representatives (a 5 per cent increase over last
year) from more than 100 countries. Sales, most importantly, were also Olivier Felicio, Canadian Jeweller’s editor-in-chief, who also attended the
on the positive side. In fact, a recent report by Global Industry Analysts Swiss watch show, agrees: “You could see a combination of old and modern
estimates the global watch market will reach US$46.6 billion by 2017. Much elements at work; vintage elements were matched with incredible technical
of that growth is predicted to come from China, which has become the innovations.”
second largest market for luxury watches in the world. Meanwhile, other
emerging markets, especially Brazil, are expected to grow quite rapidly. The recent recession made the brands revisit their most iconic models and
elements in search of something that could stand the test of time, instead
As Jacques J. Duchêne, president of the Exhibitors’ Committee summarized of trying to launch a completely new – and possibly short-lived fad. They
after the show’s closing, “We can speak of an excellent year. We, as wanted to show customers that they care for their heritage while showcasing
exhibitors, are very satisfied and have achieved highly gratifying sales. The their technical advancements. The new sobriety made for thinner cases (at
expectations for this year’s Baselworld were exceptionally high – precisely least in men’s watches) and fewer diamond-heavy bezels.
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Swatch Group’s
Taryn Doobay With so many top-notch exhibitors, it was hard to pick favourites. Some
and Olivier Felicio brands, though, really managed to stand out. One of them was certainly
TAG Heuer. In the technology front, they struck with the Mikrotimer
Rado’s Firsts Flying 1000, the only mechanical chronograph to measure and display
With such an amazing array of brands asking for attention, it’s 1/1,000th of a second with an oscillating system that vibrates 125 times
very easy to get lost in the crowd. Rado (part of the Swatch faster than most existing chronographs. As for a vintage watch, TAG drew
Group) is not at risk for that. In fact, it came well-prepared to inspiration from its illustrious sports heritage to launch a new version of
Baselworld, with two “firsts” in hand. a classic: the Monza Automatic Chronograph Calibre 36. This timepiece
One is the True Thinline, which at a mere 5 mm tall –and a quartz – one that brings back memories of Ferrari’s F1 successes in the ‘70s –
movement of less than 1mm – it is the world’s thinnest ceramic combines sleek looks with a full-throttle Calibre 36 movement.
watch. The eye-catching timepiece features clear gold coloured
indexes accentuated by the fully integrated domed sapphire Ulysse Nardin, which lost its president last April (see page 32), had another hit
crystal. The case and buckle, both in high-tech ceramics, fit with the launch of a new version of its popular Freak line, the Freak Diavolo.
perfectly into the integrated rubber bracelet. Among other advancements, the Diavolo uses silicium in its hairspring and
A leader in the use of ceramics in watches, Rado also announced throughout the majority of its escapement. To avoid a possible shortage of
another first, the introduction of Ceramos, a fusion of high-tech silicium in the market, Ulysse Nardin announced it has purchased 50 per cent
ceramic and metal that results in a very light but extremely hard of Sigatec, a company dedicated to producing silicon micro-parts. Another
material. It also adjusts quickly to skin temperature, offering innovation is Caliber 118, the first member of a family of movements with
unrivalled comfort levels when used to make watch bracelets an in-house-produced and patented DIAMonSIL – an alliance of silicium
and cases. Now available in the D-Star collection, Ceramos puts and man-made diamonds – escapement. In terms of classic designs, Ulysse
Rado as a front-runner in terms of innovative watch materials. Nardin presented Alexander the Great, a new addition to its Minute Repeater
Westminster Carillon Tourbillon Jaquemarts line.
70 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 | www.canadianjeweller.com
www.pierrelaurent.com
One company that did really well with an homage to vintage designs was
Hamilton. The American brand showcased the new Thin-O-Matic, honouring
the flattest automatic watch of the ‘60s; the Pan-Europ, a technologically
advanced timepiece inspired on a watch from the early ‘70s; and the Lady
Hamilton Vintage, a tribute to an original piece launched in 1908.
Another American company, Jorg Gray – the one that famously landed
Hublot’s Marine on President Obama’s wrist – garnered attention with its first Baselworld
Lemonnier Brennan appearance. Jorg Gray also recently announced a partnership with
and Olivier Felicio
Canadian IndyCar superstar, Alex Tagliani.
Hublot, wild at heart
If cutting-edge – whether in terms of mechanics or design – is More vintage themes were brought up by Ingersoll with its Mickey Mouse
your thing, then Hublot is your brand. This year the company ‘30s Collection, which brings back a successful line of watches centred on
managed to impress…again! Jean-Claude Biver, the company’s the Disney character, originally launched in 1933. The collection retains
CEO put on a great show while presenting their new watches the look of the original watches and includes not only wristwatches but
at Basel, even though some of them were so stunning they also whimsical pocket watches.
probably didn’t even need an introduction.
Especially when we’re talking about the MP-02 Key of Time, Overall, Baselworld 2011 proved to be a good omen of great things to come:
the second member of the Masterpiece collection (launched a market that shows signs of economic recovery, increasing sales, beautiful
last January). This engineering achievement allows customers designs and technical prowess. The rest, only time will tell. [CJ]
to “modulate” time to their liking. In fact, it can make time
run “slower” or “faster” and then take you back to “real” time
whenever you wish - or need – to. Made of microblasted titanium Watch Advertisers in this issue
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Odyssey
t: 905.886.9966
72 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 | www.canadianjeweller.com
Logos Provided
These are the logos that will be provided to you. These graph
The English colour version is used as the primary example in
®
www.cardinalwatch.com
Email: info@wengersltd.com
Fax: 514-337-4581 Toll-free: 800-561-3214 CORPORATE INCENTIVES
CJ_Wengers.indd 1
CJ_AUG09_Wengers_Ad.indd 1 5/11/11
7/16/09 10:15:23 AM
2:19:19 PM
French – Available in Spot (Pantone), Process (CMYK, RGB
LO
The Colour of
VE
74
Anita Agrawal creates timeless pieces with coloured gemstones
CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 |
XX-XX.CJ_DesignerProfile.indd 74
www.canadianjeweller.com
By Bonnie Siegler
5/12/11 1:48:55 PM
designerprofile
Anita Agrawal.
E
ven though she is not a jewellery designer by trade, Canadian native Anita
Agrawal has 15 years’ experience in the fine jewellery, manufacturing and
wholesale industry. She also has a background in social anthropology,
e-business and politics. Most recently, Agrawal has been responsible for website
development, office management and volume corporate sales for her family’s
company, Best Bargains Jewellery, a 2010 PROFIT W100 company. With this
background, Anita combined her love of creativity and jewellery making into
launching her own product line of jewellery in May 2010: “Jewels By Anita.”
“Gold prices were really starting to get very high and yet, there was still a demand
for high-quality, affordable jewellery,” says Agrawal about the inspiration
behind the formation of her product line. “I realized that this could allow me
to try out some unique designs that would be of interest to an emerging middle
market. There is always a demand for quality jewellery, but it’s the nature of
those items that changes.” Indeed, Anita foresaw people purchasing classic
– yet contemporary – pieces that were in the under - $2,000 category instead
of luxury jewellery items. “Jewels by Anita really came out from me trying to
explore custom designing. Best Bargains will be celebrating its 20th year in the
industry, and I wanted to challenge their ideas and bring in something fresh to
our traditional line of products.”
The line, formally established last year, followed a rather organic process. “I was
already fabricating pieces here and there for Best Bargains,” says Agrawal from
her Toronto home. “My company name was suggested by one of our customers
14k Yellow gold fresh water coin pearl necklace, because I am drawn to and use primarily coloured stones for my pieces, and she
accented with smokey quartz with 14k Yellow
gold fresh water coin pearl earrings and 14k thought it reflected the simple elegance of my line.” In fact, Anita’s first jewellery
yellow gold fresh water coin pearl bracelet. design seven years ago was a double blue topaz briolette pendant with a South
Sea pearl. “I have always loved South Sea pearls but found designs with them to
be fairly expensive. Yet I was able to create our design for well under $200, and
it’s still something we have in stock regularly.”
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1 Having attended major jewellery shows throughout Canada and the world, such as
Inhorgenta, Basel, the Hong Kong Jewellery and Watch Fair, JCK Las Vegas, JCK
Toronto and the Prestige Expo in Montreal as an exhibitor, and working at a
wholesale level, Anita gained valuable knowledge of what people are drawn
to when looking at jewellery. “And that’s primarily value,” she says. “Value is
2 not just about the monetary worth of something, but also about the quality
of product and customer service experience.” Being in this industry from
a young age, Anita has had the opportunity to have an insider’s look into
customer purchasing habits and what design elements have stood the test of
time.
Beginning with sterling silver, Anita has since segued to 14k gold, preferring
this precious metal due to its investment purposes and what it ultimately adds
to the value of the product. “I prefer yellow gold, though a lot of designers have
started liking white metals. Oftentimes, the yellow makes certain stones such
as rubies, tanzanite and emeralds stand out and adds so much more warmth to
the pieces. With my line, I used those classic design elements so that each piece
is something women of all ages can wear throughout the years.”
More popular designs run the gamut from earrings to 36-inch opera length necklaces,
with best-selling gemstones being tanzanite, multi-coloured sapphires and mystic
topaz. “Pieces with interesting cuts of gemstones have been very popular, as have
concave cuttings. I have found earrings around $150 wholesale have been consistently
popular with my customers.”
With global sales throughout Canada and the U.S., primarily at small and medium-
sized jewellery stores and chains, what sets this line apart from others is its wearability
and affordability factors. “It’s easy to transition the pieces from daytime casual to a
glamorous evening look. None of the pieces are so delicate that they can only be worn
on special occasions,” says Agrawal. The designs are essentially go-to pieces whether
you’re in jeans and a tee, business suit or an evening outfit.
1) 14k white gold handmade tanzanite earrings, set with over 2 Being a novice in the ever-growing field of jewellery design, Anita says she will continue
carats of tanzanite and accented with white sapphires. creating her popular motifs and begin integrating black and coloured diamonds into her
2) 14k yellow gold handmade multi-coloured sapphire earrings, collection. “My ultimate goal is to create timeless and classic pieces that really showcase
set with over 4 carats of gemstones.
3) 14k yellow gold handmade green amethyst briolette earrings, the gemstone I’m working with and have it do the talking.” For more information about
accented with pink tourmaline. “Jewels by Anita,” please contact Anita at anita@bbjw.com. [CJ]
76 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 | www.canadianjeweller.com
W
hat’s in a watch case? There have
been more developments in new
alloys and materials for watch
cases in the past five years than in the previous
50 years. Not only have we seen titanium and
ceramic take their place alongside steel, gold
and platinum as standard materials for the
construction of watch cases, the emergence
of newly mixed alloys of palladium and
aluminum, among other elements, is also
underway in the laboratories of the big
brands. The following watch brands have
introduced new case materials recently
that, while proprietary for now, give some
indication of the future direction of this
segment of watch engineering.
78 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 | www.canadianjeweller.com
In 1996, JVC entered into a partnership with the Royal Canadian Mounted Police. Thus began JVC’s commitment to assist and support law enforcement. Much
has transpired over the past 15 years. Having just returned from a jewellery crime awareness training forum at RCMP Headquarters, I am encouraged by the
level of engagement and interest shown by the RCMP members who participated. Cpl. Kelly Ross led the forum with his vast expertise and knowledge of our
industry. Among the many topics covered, copyright infringement was front and centre. Cpl. Ross shares his knowledge and observations on this issue.
Phyllis Richard, Executive Director, JVC
80 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 | www.canadianjeweller.com
I
n the village square of Nassau, Bahamas, is an artisanal market. Tented The I.P.R. holder is victim of these crimes, as are the people who purchase
from the sun and housing hundreds of street vendors, one can find counterfeit goods believing they are the genuine articles. By some estimates
unique handcrafted vacation souvenirs for any collection. Dispersed this global theft of rights holders’ property is valued at approximately
within the same market are dozens of vendors that peddle counterfeit US$650 billion annually. While these numbers illustrate the magnitude of
merchandise the likes of brand names such as Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Gucci crime faced by the I.P.R holders and the public, what is hard to gauge – but
and Rolex. Ironically, the historical Pirate Museum, only a block away clearly an issue – is the peripheral damage that extends to legitimate goods
from the market, would suggest that piracy had been eliminated in the retailers. While the luxury watch market has seen excellent growth in the
19th century. One block in the other direction is a genuine Rolex dealer. past decade, it could be expected that counterfeit watches would have a
negative impact on the sales of the genuine watches. As such, the loss of
By modern-day definition in Mirriam-Webster’s dictionary, piracy sale of a genuine watch impacts beyond the sale of legitimate goods and
includes “the unauthorized use of another’s production, invention, or extends potential losses to accessories and future sales of other products
conception, esp. in infringement of copyright.” At the Nassau market, one and services.
vendor displays dozens of counterfeit Rolex and Gucci watches on a table
at one of the most visible and desirable locals. The table of watches is not In Canada, the RCMP deals with counterfeit watches and other counterfeit
hidden from view nor located away in a dark corner of the market. It is merchandise through its Federal Enforcement Sections and Customs and
perfectly situated to intercept the tourists arriving by way of water taxi and Excise Units. Often the RCMP, working with the Canada Border Services
cruise boat. A closer look at the so-called Rolex watches reveals they are Agency (CBSA), can identify and prosecute those who engage in this
counterfeit. They have many of the Rolex markings and even a hang tag criminal activity. However, assistance from the jewellery industry and the
that says Rolex. “How much for the Rolex watch?” I ask. “It’s $65,” says the public is also very important in flushing out the manufacturers and vendors
vendor while handing it to me. He doesn’t bother to tell me it is a fake. I of counterfeit goods. In addition, any successful prosecution requires the
tell him, “A buddy of mine says I can get these for $30 in the market.” He I.P.R. holder to assist police with authenticating goods seized, to confirm
says, “Not $30, you can have it for $45.” I told him I’d think about it, but they are counterfeit. [CJ]
before I left he let me take a picture of the table of watches.
Cpl. Kelly Ross is the coordinator of the “K” Division Diamond Program of
Counterfeit goods are certainly not limited to the Bahamas and Canada, the RCMP and is based in Edmonton, Alberta.
and the rest of the world is not immune to this problem. High-value,
brand-named watches are common targets of counterfeit manufacturers,
and can be found at brick-and-mortar retail locations, flea markets and
increasingly through Internet sales.
The sale of counterfeit goods can involve the criminal offences of theft
and fraud. The theft is in fact the theft of the copyright that is owned by
the copyright holder. In general, a product name, logo, design
or other creation made by someone is considered the
creator’s property. Specifically, this is known as
Intellectual Property Rights (I.P.R.) and the owner
of the I.P.R has the right to use it in the manufacture
and sale of their wares. In this respect, if someone
engages in unauthorized use of another’s I.P.R.,
then there has likely been theft of that intellectual
property. The fraud can occur when someone sells
a counterfeit article as the genuine goods. However,
there are some who know that what they are purchasing is,
in fact, counterfeit. Perhaps part of the problem is that the simple
possession of these goods is not a crime under the Copyright Act.
WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 1 CJ 81
BY CAROL BESLER
C
anadian retailers, who attend the JCK Show in Las Vegas in droves
(1,000 Canucks attended last year), have high expectations this
year. In this post-recessionary market, with the price of gold
soaring, the word on everyone’s shopping list is value, or as Ottawa retailer
Judy Richards of Davidson’s Jewellers, says, “Big look, small price!” She
adds: “For the under $1,000 market,” a segment that is growing in both
quantity of brands and quality of workmanship. Others are aiming
to strengthen relationships with existing suppliers and lock up co-op
promotion and advertising deals for the coming year. “My goal is to expand
my brand offerings, possibly add a new watch line, and to network with
other retailers,” says Pat Thompson of Diamond Design in St. John’s. Of
course, the main goal is to search the JCK, LUXURY and Couture shows
for trends and new materials, including the many new alloys and platings
emerging in the market. Here is a sampling of some of the new products
coming to Las Vegas for the June shows. This is only a small selection of
the thousands of new products launching at the show, and the only way to
ensure you don’t miss anything is to attend!
Stuller is launching its White Dura Tungsten™
and Dura Cobalt™ collections, new alloys that While the Couture Show remains at its usual venue this year – the Wynn
are scratch resistant and color fast. Stuller is Hotel, June 2-6 – the JCK Show occupies a new venue, at Mandalay Bay,
exhibiting in the Plumb Club at JCK Show.
June 3-6, with LUXURY at JCK from May 31 to June 6 also at Mandalay
Bay. The show floor will be reorganized according to product groupings,
and exhibitors can be searched at http://www.jcklasvegasshow.com/en/For-
Buyers/Find-Exhibitors. [CJ]
82 CJ J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 1 | WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM
www.canadianjeweller.com | j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 CJ 83
design
Award Ceremony & Reception
To find out how you can become a sponsor of this prestigious event, please contact Olivier Felicio
at olivier@rivegauchemedia.com or call 416-203-7900 X 6107.
For complete details on how to enter your designs, contact Melanie Seth at melanie@rivegauchemedia.com or 416-203-7900 X 6114.
NEW! Entry deadline is July 8th, 2011, 5 p.m. *Enter online as well at www.canadianjeweller.com
2011 Categories
1. DIAMONDS & COLOURED DIAMONDS: Any piece of jewellery that puts diamonds or coloured diamonds in the spotlight.
Each design must have a minimum diamond content of 1 carat.
2. CANADIAN DIAMONDS: Entries must feature Canadian diamonds and be accompanied by certification attesting to each diamond’s Canadian ori-
gin. Smaller accent stones need not be Canadian.
3. PEARLS: The central design element in these entries must be natural pearls. Other gemstones and diamonds can be used
as accent stones.
4. PLATINUM: The overall metal content of these designs must be a minimum of 75 percent platinum, but any combination
of gemstones and gold may be used.
5. COLOURED GEMSTONES: These entries, which must feature coloured gemstones as the central design element, will be
judged on creativity
Excellence In Design_NEW.qxd:Layout 1 5/16/11 9:20 AM Page 2
ADDRESS CITY
PHONE FAX
EMAIL ADDRESS
CATEGORY
Describe the piece, including metal used and karat value, gemstone types, weights, cuts and colour. (Complex designs should be accompanied
by technical details.)
I understand the entry rules and regulations and I abide by those terms.
SIGNATURE
SEND ENTRY FORM TO: Excellence in Design, Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON M4W 3B8.
Canada. own policy to cover your piece or pieces for loss, the entries may be used for promotional purposes.
• Jewellery must incorporate precious metals and must theft or damage for the duration of the competition. Slides, renderings and other reproductions of the de-
adhere to the criteria set out in each category. • In each category, three finalists will be selected. signs, as well as press releases, will also be used for
• All gemstones must be natural. Synthetics are Judges will then choose an overall winner in this purpose.
not permitted. Students may substitute CZ for each category. Entries will be judged on the basis of originality, cre-
diamonds. • To enter, submit finished jewellery, an entry form and ativity, beauty, wearability and quality of workmanship.
• One submission per designer, per category. a $30 fee for each package. Consideration will also be given to marketability.
• Contestant assumes all liability for designs and • Entry deadling is July 8th, 2011, 5 p.m.
jewellery submitted. Although we will take reasonable • Entries will be returned by a courier at the expense of
precautions while the jewellery is in our possession, the designer. To arrange for the return, please contact
Canadian Jeweller cannot be responsible for a Canadian Jeweller representative at (416) 203-7900.
An Ounce of Prevention
is Worth 2,267.9 Carats of Cure.
CJ_JVC.indd 1
0052 JVC CanJewl Jun_JulF.indd 1 5/11/11
4/8/11 10:08:43 AM
8:23:17 AM
showcase
A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, lucy@rivegauchemedia.com
Summer collection
Swiss
SUMMER PROMOTION re
Beginning August 1st 2011 Put your logo he
Once again, we are running our popular summer
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Don’t miss out! Contact any of the Hagerty
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Ready Visit us online at www.hagertycanada.ca.
Hagerty Distributors
Catalogues available on request H&W Perrin Burney Giftware Prestige Pak Inc.
416-422-4600 416-736-9990 514-387-8888
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Tel.:514.332.9298 Fax: 514.332.4158 Reliable Watch / Jean Michel Habsons Jewellery Supply
info@bandacanada.com www.bandacanada.com 514-866-1095 604-708-9700
Creative Gems layout 4/28/11 5:39 PM Page 1
Booth B5183
Now Carrying
Coloured Diamonds
www.canadianjeweller.com | j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 CJ 87
pure beauty
has a name...
88 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 | www.canadianjeweller.com
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Different Styles And
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1CT - 18K
Watchbands, LCDB5070
VS2-S11 Including 2CT - 14K
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www.canadianjeweller.com | j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 CJ 89
marketplace
A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, lucy@rivegauchemedia.com
SO
UT TD
HC YL
HIN A ER
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90 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 | www.canadianjeweller.com
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www.canadianjeweller.com | j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 CJ 91
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92 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 | www.canadianjeweller.com
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WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM | J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 1 CJ 93
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A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, lucy@rivegauchemedia.com
JEWELLERY STORE MANAGER LINES WANTED AGENT WANTED - ALL PROVINCES BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY
Bilingual sales professional, connected with the
Ann-Louise Jewellers is an established retail best Canadian retailers, with extensive experience Opportunity exists for established jewellery Oakville, Ontario jewellery store, established
company based in Vancouver with 14 stores in the fine jewellery industry, is looking for a nice sales agents to take on a huge range of jewellery 30+ years in busy plaza with loyal customer base
throughout B.C and Calgary. We are seeking high quality sterling silver line with a catalogue without having to carry a single sample. Bee and excellent reputation. Turnkey operation
dynamic, performance-driven people who are and good marketing support. Also interested in a jewellery have introduced a revolutionary new with display cases, safes, security system. With
looking for a career opportunity as STORE high quality 14k gold & diamond jewellery line, iPad selling system, which replaces the tradi- or without inventory. Serious enquiries, please
MANAGER. As a retailer with a reputation for imported from Asia.Please call: 514 865 7235 or tional sample range. Approved agents will be email to: Retiring.jeweller@gmail.com
quality and service, our inventory collection email marceldumontet@videotron.ca supplied with a brand new iPad, installed with
includes fine diamond jewellery, giftware and sim card, and software containing a complete
leading watch brands.
range of Bee jewellery.
YOU are a resourceful, hands-on individual with
Bee Jewellery, based in Australia, has now been
strong organizational skills and leadership quali- FOR SALE AGENT / REP WANTED
ties. You are goal oriented and thrive in the retail servicing Canadian customers for more than
environment. You will also have a minimum 3
3 B Best Beauty Buys 10 years, and is already famous for it’s Bee retail Well established company with excellent
years experience in jewellery management. A unique fashion jewellery store of brand name System and unconditional 10 year guarantee on reputation, looking for experienced Sales
Compensation is a competitive salary and bonus all products.
suppliers. Well established business and clientele Representatives across Canada.
package corresponding to the candidate’s back-
ground and experience. Comprehensive benefits for 26 years in Sahali Mall - Kamloops, BC. For Email your inquiry to steven@beejewel.com.au
also offered. more information call Beverly 250-372-3339 or Please call Toll-Free: 1-866-264-9976
Please forward your resume to 250-374-0949 Bee Jewellery - Australia - www.beejewel.com.au
careers@annlouise.ca.
94 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 | www.canadianjeweller.com
Shop the best selection of products from over 150 designers and manufacturers
Make personal connections with those who share your passion for jewellery
Learn new solutions in our Education Program to boost your bottom line
*FREE
Muehle-Glashuette 63 128
Yes! Please send me or continue to send me Canadian Jeweller magazine No, don’t send
STEP 1 STEP 2 To qualify, check circles: Selling area of your store
under 1,000 sq.ft. 1,001 - 3,000 sq.ft.
Signature: __________________________________________ Date: _______________ Which category best describes your 3,001 - 5,000 sq.ft. over 5,000 sq.ft.
business classification?
Your Name: _________________________________________ Title: ________________ Education
Approximate annual sales volume
under $500,000
Retailer
Company Name: ___________________________________________________________ Manufacturer
$500,000 - $1 million
$1 million - $5 million
Wholesaler
Address: _________________________________________________________________ Importer
$5 million - $10 million
$10 million - $20 million
Designer
City: ________________________________ Province: ___________________________ over $20 million
Services (repair, appraisals, etc.)
Other: ________________________________ Categories you personally manage
Postal Code: ______________________________________________________________
Retailer Designer
Number of employees at your location
Phone: ______________________________ Fax: _______________________________ 1-3 4-8 9-12 over 13 Gemologist Supplier
Manufacturer
Email Address (optional): _____________________________________________________ Number of locations: ______________________ Other _________________________________
Fax Now to: 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392 | or Mail card today to: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8
96 CJ J U N E / J U LY 2 0 1 1 | WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM
CJ_ExpoPrestige.indd 1
5/11/11 10:10:20 AM
Cherry
lastword
Picking
By Carol Besler
Sometimes just the right combination of colour, cut and imagination results
in a mouthwatering piece of jewellery that looks good enough to eat. This
cascade of rubellites, each surrounded by a halo of diamonds, rubies or pink
sapphires, resembles a luscious cluster of ripe cherries. Designed by Fawaz
Gruosi of de Grisogono, the earrings comprise 16 cabochon-cut rubellites,
167 rubies, 280 pink sapphires and 270 white diamonds. Yum!
98 CJ j u n e / j u ly 2 0 1 1 | www.canadianjeweller.com
5/11/11 10:10:45 AM
Mirage Creations Inc.
221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4
Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677
www.miragecreations.com e-mail: info@miragecreations.com