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Table of Contents:

Introducing Maramure[
Foreword .................................................................................................................. page 1
How to use this guide ................................................................................................page 1
Baia Mare .................................................................................................................. page 2
Around Baia Mare. Recreation for all seasons ...................................................... page 4
Dese[ti ....................................................................................................................... page 6
Sighetu Marma]iei .................................................................................................... page 8
Around Sighetu Marama]iei. The Merry Cemetery.............................................. page 10
B=rsana ................................................................................................................... page 12
Poienile Izei ............................................................................................................ page 14
Ieud ......................................................................................................................... page 16
Bude[ti .................................................................................................................... page 18
Rogoz ...................................................................................................................... page 20
Plopi[ ...................................................................................................................... page 22
{urde[ti ................................................................................................................... page 23
Useful Information. Maramure[ Tourism Centers................................................ page 24
Nazi Germany to Hungary and

Maramures, subsequently returned in 1945 with the


withdrawal of German and Hungarian
troops. In the early 1960s most individual
peasants were forced to give their lands to
Maramure[, a small and unique location in northern Romania, has carefully and distinctively
collective farms instituted under the
preserved the culture, traditions and lifestyle of a mediaeval peasant past. Whilst Romania is communist regime. Despite this forced
on the verge of economically and socially joining the rest of Europe, Maramure[ stands as a collectivization, genuine art and folk tradi-
tions continued to flourish in Maramure[.
testament to the traditional, to a romantic era of simplicity, pride and moral values that many
of us can only now read about or hear about from our grandparents. I Ethnographic Zones

I Geography Whilst much of Dacia (the old name Maramure[ County is comprised of the
corresponding to lands south of the following ethnographic zones: the Land of
Situated in the northwest of Romania, the Carpathians and north of the Danube) was Maramure[, the Land of L\pu[, the Land of
region occupies an area of 6304 square conquered by the Romans, Maramure[, in Chioar and the largest part of the Codru
kilometers, borders Ukraine and also the the 2nd and 3rd centuries, was largely inde- Land. Five of the wooden UNESCO World
counties of Suceava, Bistri]a N\s\ud, Cluj pendent. Heritage churches presented in this guide
Napoca, S\laj and Satu Mare. are situated in the Land of Maramure[
In the middle ages, Dacian-Roman society (Dese[ti, Bude[ti, Bârsana, Poienile Izei,
Almost 50% of the region is considered was influenced by neighboring tribes. Ieud), two in the Land of Chioar ({urde[ti
mountainous. The Gut=i, }ible[ and Rodna Feudal settlements were established and Plopi[) and one in the Land of L\pu[
Mountains, running northwest to east, between the 4th and 10th centuries (Rogoz).
sports can enjoy skiing for all ability levels
separate Historical Maramure[ from the and were largely institutionalized and in Cavnic, Mogo[a, {uior, Izvoarele or
I Tourism
rest of the region while the Maramure[ sanctioned by the church. In the 13th Bor[a.
Mountains form a natural and political century, Magyar (Hungarian) chiefs began
Maramure[ is considered by many to
boundary with Ukraine in the northeast. their conquest of Transylvania and by the The large museums in Baia Mare and
be the heart and soul of rural Romania.
The region is abundant with clean fast-flow- of the 14th century, the whole Transylvania Sighetu Marma]iei are not the only cultural
With its picturesque countryside of small
ing rivers constantly refreshed by the region, including Maramure[, was under attractions in the area. Keep you eyes open
villages, rolling hills, pastures, and mead-
surrounding mountains. The names of the Hungarian rule. for the many small treasures that can be
ows full of wildflowers, Maramure[ found in tiny village museums and memorial
major rivers are also used to distinguish epitomizes all that the rural lifestyle
the regions in historical Maramure[ – the Maramure[ officially became part of the houses. You might even stumble upon a fine
encompasses. Visitors to Maramures have a collection of old books or icons painted on
Iza, the Mara, the Vi[eu and the Tisa. Transylvanian principality in 1526, then unique opportunity to step back in time and
part of the Habsburg Empire in 1687 and wood and glass that are tucked away in a
bear witness to simpler times and remote village church.
I History was annexed by Hungary in 1703. simpler lives.
Revolution in 1848 ended the Habsburg Distinctive wooden architecture clearly
The first written documentation of Dynasty and in 1918, Transylvania, Rural and ecotourism opportunities distinguishes Maramure[ from other
Maramure[ dates back to the year 1199, but including Maramure[, united with the abound throughout Maramure[. Visitors regions of Romania. In particular, ornately
archaeological evidence points to habitation Kingdom of Romania. In 1940, Maramure[ are invited to spend a night in a rural guest- carved wooden gates convey an undeniable
of these lands since the Neolithic age. and Northern Transylvania was given by house, taste traditional foods, and witness local identity to this land. Maramure[ is
traditional handicraft creation. In the larger also home to many old wooden churches
towns and cities, especially Baia Mare, which have been visited and admired by
there are many quality levels of accommo- people from all over the world. These
dation for the visitor to choose from. special monuments, particularly the 8
UNESCO World Heritage churches, are the
Hikers and mountain trekkers can take in focus of this guide. We invite you to travel
Maramure['s breathtaking landscapes along the scenic byways of Maramure[ and
which are accessible through a large discover these magnificent churches and
network of trails. Those fond of winter their interesting and unique histories.
Fo re w o rd
The history of the people of Maramure[ is told through the wood of their churches. Along
the centuries, the area's foreign rulers did not allow the people living here to build long
lasting stone churches so instead, the local carpenters raised beautiful wooden churches
to communicate with God. Wood became their best friend and companion. Despite many
predictions to the opposite, the churches have resisted the ravages of time and still remain
in this northwestern Romanian land , sustaining the local populace and amazing visitors.

Eight wooden churches from Maramure[ have been inscribed in the UNESCO World
Heritage list. These churches, which date from the mid-fourteenth until the late eighteenth
centuries, include: {urde[ti (1721), Plopi[ (1792), Bude[ti Josani (1643), Bârsana (1720),
Dese[ti (1770), Poienile Izei (1604), Ieud-Deal (mid fourteenth century) and Rogoz (1663).

How To Use This Map-Guide


Dear Visitor,

This brochure intends to highlight these eight wooden churches located along a circuit through
Maramure[ and is dedicated to those who visit the region by car. By following the route exactly,
or in pieces, you can explore the World Heritage and beautiful countryside of Maramure[.

In order to maximize your visit in Maramure[, the guide also includes information on other
tourism attractions located near the highlighted churches. The key feature of this guide is
the large, fold-out, full color map to help you navigate easily around the suggested route.
Also included is a brief history and general interesting information about Maramure[ and
short descriptions of each monument featured on the trail. In an effort to make your
journey easier, directions and distances between each stop are clearly described. The
guide also offers a few suggestions for accommodation and dining.

This trail includes two major cities in Maramure[ County: the current county capital, Baia
Mare, and the former, historical one, Sighetu-Marma]iei. Our approach to these cities is
more detailed in order to reflect their greater significance and the larger variety of tourist
objectives found. The last page of this guide provides the contact information for Tourist
Information Centers located in each major city on the trail. We encourage you to visit these
centers for all of your informational needs. Before embarking on your tour it is advised that
you call the phone numbers specified in this guide for each monument to announce your
visit. There are only a few sites where the guardian can reliably be found onsite. Most
guardians can usually be reached by telephone prior to your visit.

We wish you a pleasant trip

And hope you will

ENJOY YOUR WORLD HERITAGE TRAIL!

1
Baia Mare
A ny tour of Maramure[ should start with its capital, Baia Mare, the point of easiest access
to the county. A mixture between medieval history and modernism, Baia Mare is a
medium-sized city with many sights and points of interest for visitors to explore. One major
unique feature of the city is the sweet chestnut tree reserve. Baia Mare is the northernmost
location in Europe where Castanea sativa can be found.This natural treasure is celebrated
annually at the end of September during the three days of the Chestnut Festival.

Access to Baia Mare: granted with many rights and privileges


leading to the town's development into one
The city is located in a depression in the of the richest medieval towns in the area.
western part of Maramure[ approximately
80 km from the border with Hungary. Baia Places to visit:
Mare's fastest connection with Bucharest is
Recently restored, the Old City Center is
by plane and the airport is located 8 km out-
a nice testimony of the medieval
side of the city. Tourists arriving in Bucharest history of Baia Mare and is the
or Budapest may also fly to Satu Mare (70 km) pride of the city's residents.
or Cluj Napoca, (150 km) and then travel via Most of the architectural
train, bus or car to Baia Mare. monuments and museums
are located in this area.
History: The town's emble-
matic building, the
Baia Mare as a settlement can be traced Stephen Tower,
as far back as 450 BC. The area has histori- has seen six
cally served as an important mining colony centuries of very
troubled history.
and archaeological research points to the
Between 1347 and
fact that the gold and silver in this area had 1387 St. {tefan's
been intensely exploited even prior to the Church was
Roman conquest of Dacia. The first written erected and a
attestation of the town of Baia Mare dates Gothic bell
back to 1329, when it was mentioned under tower was
the name of Rivulus Dominarum or Rivulo added in 1446.
Dominarum (The City of the River of the In 1769 the
church was
Ladies). In 1527, King Ioan Sigismund gave
struck by
the town its name of Baia Mare. lightning and
Due to royal policies which sup- burned down.
ported mining during the Middle After several
Age, the town of Baia Mare was attempts to
2
to rebuild the church, each followed by
another fire, the remaining walls were torn
down in 1847 for use as construction stone.
Of the whole church, today only the tower
remains.
Also located in the Old City Center
(Libert\]ii Square), the lancu de Hunedoara
House was initially part of the former
medieval castle built by Transylvania's ruler
lancu de Hunedoara for his wife. The
building was finished around 1468 by their
son, King Matei Corvin. Other architectural
monuments of interest are: the Holy Trinity
Church (1720), the Butchers' Tower and
many other buildings from the 17 th and
18th centuries. Among the modern buildings,
one of the most appreciated is the
Prefecture Building, (Gh. Sincai Str.), built in
1968.

Museums

I The edifice of the former mint


I The Mineralogy Museum (Traian
(Monetariei Str., No. 1-3) now houses
Blvd, No. 8) contains an extensive and
the Archeology and History Museum
interesting inventory of rare minerals and
containing various collections including: gems from the mining areas of Maramure[
archaeology, mining techniques, numismatics County, some of which are unique in the
(coins, medals), stamps, seals, weapons, whole world.
clocks, etc. Recently, the museum has been
equipped with an audio guide service in
Romanian, English, and French. Parks and Landscapes
I The Ethnography and Folk Art
Not far from the Museum of Ethnography,
Museum, located at the foot of Florilor Hill,
confined to a hilly area covered with coniferous
reflects the traditional occupations, crafts,
trees, is the municipal park. A fanfare kiosk,
folk clothing and religious objects specific
a little pond, a restaurant, a night club and a
to old Maramure[, while the nearby Village
narrow gauge toy-like train for children
Museum covers the traditional architecture
entertainment provide entertainment for
and technical installations from the four
those looking for more than just a relaxing
ethnographic regions of the county. stroll. A zoo is located near the park.
I The Art Museum. (1 Mai Str, No. 8) Several hundred meters uphill from the
contains a lovely collection of paintings, open-air Ethnography Museum, the
sculpture and graphics belonging to Baia scenic Dealul Florilor Inn offers good beer
Mare’s famous artist colony. and steaks with a wide panorama of the
I The Planetarium of Baia Mare town. If you tire of driving or just
(G. Co[buc Str., No. 16) gives daily wish to stretch your legs a
presentations of the stars and other little, try a one hour leisurely walk
astronomic highlights. along the Usturoi valley.
3
Accomodation & Restaurants
Mara Hotel (3 stars) Rustic Restaurant
Unirii Boulevard, No. 11, Transilvaniei Street, No. 15,
Tel: ^40 262 226 660, www.hotelmara.ro Tel: ^40 262 276 367

Carpa]i Hotel (4 stars) „Corvin” Medieval Restaurant


Bd. Independen]ei, Nr. 2, Libet\]ii Square, No. 16,
Tel: ^40 262 214 812, www.hotelcarpati.ro Tel: ^40 0262 213 889

Rivulus Hotel (3 stars) Parc Restaurant


Str. Culturii, Nr. 3, Tel: ^40 262 216 302 Valea Ro[ie Street, No. 28

EuroHotel (3 stars) PIZZA PLACES


Bucure[ti Boulevard, No. 23,
Tel: ^40 262 222 405 Pizza H
Bucure[ti Boulevard, No. 6,
RESTAURANTS Tel: ^40 262 211 012

Millenium Restaurant Il Padrino


Libert\]ii Square, No. 5, Baia Mare, Str. Victoriei nr. 47,
Tel: ^40 262 211 761 Tel: 0262-27.56.29

4
Around Baia Mare
The countryside surrounding Baia Mare relaxation and escape from day-to-day
provide visitors with ample opportuni- life. Accommodation here is provided
ties for recreation no matter the season. by 3 mini-hotels. The ski slope, with a
Lakes and forests abound providing length of 1400 m, is equipped with a
summer visitors with many outdoor chair lift. (www.suior.ro)
activities while numerous ski slopes offer
visitors ample wintertime distraction. The Creasta Coco[ului (The Rooster's
Crest), another natural attraction in the
Mogo[a Chalet is located 15 km from area, is a craggy cliff offering excellent
Baia Mare. Swimming in the lake and climbing opportunities for moun-
climbing the surrounding peaks are the taineers. The Izvoarele Resort, set
chief summer attractions, while the amongst stunning scenery, is located 32
famous ski slope and the chair lift are km from Baia Mare and offers accom-
the appeal during the winter months. modation, relaxation, and skiing
(www.mogosa.ro) facilities. Half-way between Baia Mare
and Izvoarele is the Firiza Dam and
Located just 1 km from here is the {uior lake, offering stunning scenery which is
Tourism Complex, another area for well worth a brief stop.

5
Desesti
,
T he Wooden Churches Trail begins with a
steep and winding ascent from Baia Mare
into forest covered mountains. At the top of
Gutâi Pass, the picturesque landscape opens up
before you. The road then continues down the
Mara Valley towards Dese[ti, the first World
Heritage site on this itinerary.

Legend maintains that in 1717 the wooden


church of Dese[ti was set ablaze during a
Tatar invasion, during which many villagers
died trying to save the church.

The legend continues to say that the


location of the current church was chosen
by the new altar stone. The consecrated
stone was erected in several different places
and each time it fell over. After five
attempts, the stone remained upright and
through its own discovery of stability and
peace, determined the site for the church,
called „Pious Paraschiva”.

According to the inscription on a beam of


the pronaos roof the interior frescoes date
from 1780 and is the work of master painter
crosses is inscribed in a circle or semicircle
Radu Munteanu from the village Ungureni in and bordered with saw teeth (of wolf).
the Land of L\pu[, and of his helper
Gheorghe (from Dese[ti). The itinerary continues from Desesti to
Perhaps the most unique of the frescoes is Sighetu-Marama]iei. The section of the
the depiction of The Last Judgment. In the route along the Mara Valley ends at Vadu
painting the sinners are individualized by Izei where the river Mara flows into the Iza.
their costumes: the Turks and the Tartars Be sure to pay a visit to the quaint visitor
wear shalwars and tunics, the Germans information center located here in a traditional
wear cutaways and small hats, the „Francs” house on the left side of the road, in the
wear tights, short tunics and very tall hats. center of the village. After another 2 km you
will reach Sighetu-Marma]iei.
The cemetery surrounding the
church is populated by many Contact info for visiting the church:
Celtic crosses. Each of these Priest Ioan Sigart\u, tel: ^40 262 37 26 14
6
Accomodation
Anca Guesthouse (2 daisies)
Dese[ti, Main Street, No. 286, Casa tradi]ional\ Borlean (2 daisies)
tel: ^40 262 372 635 Vadu Izei, Zavoi Street, No. 689A,
tel: ^40 262 330 228
Irina Guesthouse (2 daisies)
Dese[ti, Main Street, No. 259, Doina Guesthouse (3 daisies)
tel: ^40 262 372 603 Vadu Izei, {ug\u Street, No 75
tel: ^40 262 330 602
Teleptean Guesthouse (2 daisies)
Vadu Izei, Main Street, No. 320,
tel: ^40 262 330 341

7
Sighetu marmatiei
,
T he county's second largest city, Sighetu
Marma]iei, is located at the confluence
of the rivers Iza, Tisa and Roni[oara at the
North-West border of the country. It was
the old capital of the historical province of
Maramures and written documents attest
to the town as far back as 1326. In some
specialists' opinions, the name of the town
comes from the old Thracian word „Zeget”,
meaning „fortress”. Another explanation
for the name could be the Hungarian
„Sziget”, which means „island”.

The inhabitants of Sighetu Marma]iei


proudly claim that they live in the very
heart of Europe, since not far from Sighet
(on land that today belongs to Ukraine), a
landmark made by the Austro-Hungarian
geographical society at the end of the 19th
century demarcates the geographical
center of Europe.

The former capital of Maramure[ also


maintains many traces of old traditions and
costumes. Exemplary of this rich cultural
heritage is the „Festival of Winter
Traditions and Customs,” held annually in
Sighet on the 27th and 28th of December, in
which the entire town transforms into an
open-air stage focusing on the unique tradi-
tions of the area.

Foreign travelers before World War II,


described Sighetu Marma]iei as a town
with a strong Jewish component.
The tragedy of the deportation to Nazi con-
centration camps that struck Jewish
communities throughout Eastern
Europe did not spare the local
population here. Elie Wiezel,
Nobel Peace Prize Laureate,
8
was born here and his work is a living piece visit the open-air section of the museum,
of this tragedy. called the Village Museum. The museum is
located on the Dob\ie[ Hill just as you enter
In 1948, following the Russian model of the town coming from the direction of Baia
administration, the capital of the region was Mare. Both of the above-mentioned
moved to Baia Mare. Sighet, however, museums are equipped with audio guides in
remains a small but vibrant city where Romanian, English and French.
visitors and residents alike enjoy the bustle
Other museums of interest in Sighetu
of daily life.
Marma]iei include the The History and
Places to visit Archaeology Museum and the Museum of
Natural Sciences (Libert\]ii Square, No. 15).
Sighetu Marma]iei offers the tourist a wide
The Memorial of the Victims of
palette of architectural styles including Communism and of the Resistance,
Gothic, Baroque and Eclectic. The popularly known as The Prison Museum, is
Protestant church was built in the 15th located in the former political prison, right
century on the location of another edifice, next to the civic center of the town.
erected in the early Gothic style between
1050-1150. At 17 Ioan Mihalyi de Ap[a Street, you can
find the Memorial House of Ioan Mihalyi
Museums de Ap[a, a famous local scientist who
wandered across Maramure[ and made
The building at no. 1, Bogdan Vod\ Street important archeological discoveries.
houses the Ethnographic Museum of
Maramure[ which displays a wide variety of Elie Wiesel's House (T. Vladimirescu
objects related to folk culture: icons, Str., No.1) has been transformed into a
agricultural tools, traditional furniture and museum hosting an important
costumes, rugs, ceramics, masks and collection of photos, pieces
architectural elements. Tourists eager to of furniture and other objects
learn more about the traditional wooden belonging to members of Sighet's
architecture of Maramure[ are invited to Jewish community.
9
Around Sighetu Marma]iei
Less than 20 km away from Sighet is the town of S\pân]a,
famous for its truly unique „Merry Cemetery”, a must-see
for anyone visiting Maramure[. The cemetery owes its name
to the vivid colors of the headboards on which naively
painted scenes narrate the biography of the deceased.
The rhymes are deprived of usual clichés and remain
fresh and original.

Very close to S\p=n]a


is the Peri Monastery,
home to the tallest
wooden church in the
world, with a spire
reaching 78 meters.
The monastery, built
in the Maramure[
architectural style, is
situated beautifully in
the middle of a forest.

10
tel: ^40 0262 311004
Accomodation & www.vilaroyal.ro
Restaurants Perla Sighetean\ Motel
Avram Iancu Street, No. 65,
Casa Iurca de C\line[ti Guesthouse
tel: ^40 262 310 613
(4 stars)
www.perla-sigheteana.alphanet.ro
Drago[ Vod\ Street, No. 14,
tel: ^40 318 882
Nova Hotel
Bogdan Vod\ Street, No. 219,
Vila Royal
tel: ^40 262 315 615
Ioan Mihaly de Ap[a Street, No. 1,
www.hotelnova.ro

11
^
bArsana
A fter visiting the Peri Monastery, the
trail returns through Sighet continuing
along the road south into Vadu Izei where
you will turn left and begin the journey along
the Iza Valley, through a series of small
villages and hamlets set amidst rolling hills.
20 km from Sighet lies Bârsana, one of
the largest villages in the Iza Valley.

The signposted wooden church at B=rsana, eyes covering their bodies. The B=rsana
known as the „Holy Mother's Entrance”, Monastery is located at the southern end of
was originally built in 1720 and later moved the village and merits a visit by travelers.
to its present location on Jbâr Hill in 1806. Within the confines of the monastery,
According to legend, Jbâr Hill used to be a visitors will be hard-pressed to not feel the
cemetery for plague victims. Plague victims emotion and pulsing life of the mountains,
were buried hurriedly, without a religious flowers, fields, and hills of the area.
service. Most likely it was the strong Spectacular views of the surrounding
religious convictions of the locals which led countryside and stunning wooden architecture
to the churches relocation. Tradition holds make the monastery one of the most special
that religious services for the dead are of places in all of Maramure[. Most of the
extreme importance and the relocation of buildings within the monastery complex are
the church would allow these unfortunate open to the public. Bârsana is also home to
souls to rest for eternity in the shadow of Teodor Bârsan, a famous handicraftsman in
the church. wood, whose work is reknowned all over
Maramure[ and beyond. His son, Ioan
A construction peculiarity of the church is B=rsan, has inherited his skillfulness and
the double-eaved roof. The interior frescoes carries on the old handicraft to this day.
were painted in the Baroque style. The side
walls of the naos depict scenes from both Contact Info for visiting the church:
the Old and New Testament. Of particular Priest Urda, tel: ^40 262 331 006
beauty are the flocks of angels and the Contact Info for visiting the artisan:
touching depiction of the cherubim with B=rsana, No. 599

12
Accomodation
Fratii Pa[ca Complex (3 stars) Petrovai Guesthouse (2 daisies)
Bârsana, V\leniului Street, No. 1338A, Bârsana, Main Street, No. 119,
tel: ^40 262 331 165, www.fratiipasca.ro tel: ^40 262 331 061

13
poienile izei
U pon leaving Bârsana, the
trail continues to follow the
meandering of the Iza River. In the village
of Rozavlea, you can visit the old wooden
church erected around 1717-1720 on the
site of an earlier house of worship that had
been destroyed by the Tatars.

Once you reach the village of {ieu,


home to another wooden church
(1760), keep and eye out for the turn off
toward Poienile Izei. Take a right turn
off of the main road and follow the
signs toward the next stop on the trail.

The UNESCO designated wooden


church at Poienile Izei, „Pious
Parashiva”, is one of the most beautiful
and well preserved monuments in all of
Maramure[. The church was built in
1604 and is covered on the interior with
spectacular frescoes. It contains several
scenes of the Last Judgment on its
„pranaos” (walls). The scenes depict
images of punishments for sins: the liar
hanged by his tongue, the witch gored
by cows for casting a spell on them, the
farmer plowed by two devils for stealing
his neighbor's land, the mother forced
to swallow her aborted baby, and the
person who sleeps while the priest is
preaching is forced to lay on a burning
bed and endure the devil's violin.

Nearby Poienile Izei is the quaint


village of Botiza which is famous for
women's artistry in weaving traditional
rugs. In the center of the village, there
is a wooden church, built in 1699 at
Vi[eu de Jos, which was moved to its
present location towards the end of the
19th century.

Contact info for visiting the church:


Priest Ioan Pop, tel: ^40 262 334 321
14
Accomodation
La Domni]a Guesthouse (3 daisies)
Poienile Izei, Main Street, No. 138,
tel: ^40 262 334 383 Man Maria Guesthouse (2 daisies)
{ieu, Main Street, No. 634,
Casa Sid\u Guesthouse (2 daisies) tel: ^40 262 333 513
Botiza, Valea Sasului Street, No. 63,
tel: ^40 262 334 119 Iza Guesthouse (3 daisies)
Rozavlea, Main Street, No. 227,
Poienar Guesthouse (2 daisies) tel: ^40 262 333 033
Botiza, Main Street, No. 833,
tel: ^40 262 334 149

15
ieud
T he trail now returns to ªieu where a right turn back on to the
main road continues the journey along the Iza River.
The next point of interest is the village of Ieud, just off the main
road from Bogdan Vodã. Situated at the foot of the northern
slope of the Þibleº Mountain, the village of Ieud was first
mentioned in documents in 1364.You shouldn't miss its two
wooden churches, which are among the most important in the
Land of Maramureº.The church on the Hill, inscribed in
UNESCO's World Heritage List, is made of fir tree wood and
considered to be the oldest wooden structure in Europe.

According to some historians, the church Museum, hosted by the Ple[ family, who
was built in the mid-fourteenth century and changed a peasant household into a real
is devoted to the Birth of Holy Mary celebrated ethnographic settlement.
on September 8th. The interior frescoes were Contact info:
made by Alexandru Ponehalski, one of the Ieud, No. 909, Tel: ^40 262 336 104
most active church painters in Maramureº.

The painting in the pronaos depict the Last


Judgment, where the blaze of the inferno is
about to engulf the sinners. In the attic of
this church, a document dating from 1391
was found that is known as The Codex of
Ieud, generally considered to be the first
example of written Romanian.

The lower church was erected in 1718, just


after the last raid of the Tatars. It
is one of the largest wooden
buildings in Romania. Ieud is
also home to the unique Hemp
16
Driving back to the main road, you soon
reach Bogdan Vodã (formerly Cuhea), once
the residence of the ruler Bogdan, who founded
Accomodation
the feudal state of Moldavia. The wooden
Casa Oniga Guesthouse (2 daisies)
church in Bogdan Vodã was built in 1722.
Ieud, Main Street, No. 275,
tel: ^40 262 336 372
The next village along the trail is
Chindris Guesthouse (2 daisies)
Dragomire[ti. About midway through the
Ieud, Main Street, No. 201,
village you will see a quaint house museum
tel: ^40 262 336 197
focusing on the life of the Romanian peasant
Casa Ilea Guesthouse (2 daisies)
in Maramure[. On display here are traditional
Ieud, Main Street, No. 306,
costumes, including wedding costumes, tel: ^40 262 336 039
textiles, pottery, and wood carvings.
Contact info
Dragomire[ti, Tel: ^40 262 337 417 elements, and work techniques which
include red burning and stone polishing.
Dragomire[ti is also home to a newer wooden The kiln, however, is of Roman origin.
church and a monastery. Today, pottery is practiced in S\cel using
the same ancient techniques.
The last village of the Iza Valley is Sãcel,
famous for its pottery. The ceramics from Contact info for visiting the church:
Sãcel closely resemble those of the Dacians Priest Alexandru Brici,
by the shape of the pots, the decorative tel: ^40 262 336 203

17
budesti
,
O ur World Heritage Trail continues by following the route back until reaching Bârsana once again, at which
point you will need to turn left toward C\line[ti. Upon reaching C\line[ti, turn left following the Cos\u
Valley. Shortly you will pass through the charming village of Sârbi. Almost every household in this village has
its own carved wooden gate. It is worthwhile to stop briefly to examine the still operational water mill, located
midway through the village. Sârbi is also home to two talented hat-makers: Ioan B=rlea and Vasile Borodi
who hand-make hats from straws and sawdust which are integral to the male costume of Maramure[.
Contact info: Ioan B=rlea (Bude[ti, No. 138,Tel:
^40 262 373 917) and Vasile Borodi (Bude[ti, No. 180)

Our next UNESCO monument is the oak


church of Bude[ti-Josani, built in 1643 on
the site of an earlier church. Dedicated to
Saint Nicoar\, the old Romanian name for
Saint Nicholas, the church was constructed
from thick pieces of oak placed on a founda-
tion of river stones. Inside the church, the
chain mail shirt and armor helmet of Pintea
the Brave, a local „Robin Hood”, can be
viewed. Tradition says that he brought
these pieces here himself. Alexandru
Ponehalschi painted the interior in bright,
warm colors, around 1762. The church is
also known for its collection of 17th century
icons painted on glass and wood. An earlier celebrate the occasion of the first man
icon from a 15th century church contains starting to work the fields that spring. In
Slavonic inscriptions and depicts Saint John September, the yard of Anu]a and Ion Pop
the Baptist. hosts the annual Village Dance.

The other church in Bude[ti (Susani Another site in the neighborhood is Ocna
Church) was erected in 1760. Be sure to take {ugatag, featuring salt water mineral baths
a close look at the scenes from the Life and as the main attraction. It is a central
Passion of Christ and the panoramic location with comfortable accommodation.
depiction of Paradise, swarming with
sundry animals, quaintly blending the real From Bude[ti, the trail follows the road to
and imaginary. Cavnic, an old mining settlement, first
mentioned in documents in 1455. Over the
Those who are interested in viewing some past few years, Cavnic has evolved into a
remarkable architecture and, tall, carved, popular winter destination due to its ski
wooden gates are encouraged to make the slopes and recently built chalets.
short trip to Breb and Hoteni, two villages
close to Bude[ti. Each May the Contact Info for visiting the church:
village of Hoteni hosts a famous Priest Ioan N\ne[tean,
and colorful ritual, called tel: ^40 262 373 615 (or go to the city hall
„Tânjaua de pe Mara,” to across the church and ask for the key).
18
Accomodation
Casa Alba Guesthouse (3 daisies), Pohl Guesthouse (2 daisies)
Ocna {ugatag, Prim\verii Street, No. 12, Ocna {ugatag, Unirii Street, No 10,
tel: ^40 262 374 004 tel: ^40 262 374 250

Mariana Guesthouse (3 daisies) Adina Guesthouse (2 daisies)


Ocna {ugatag, Prim\verii Street, No. 39, Cavnic, Independen]ei Street,
tel: ^40 262 374 131 No. 11, tel: ^40 262 295 653
www.adina.pensiuni.info.ro

19
rogoz
S hortly after passing the slopes of Cavnic,
you will turn left and enter into the Land
of L\pu[ via the town of Strâmbu B\iu[. 25
km from Cavnic is the village of L\pu[, located
on a road surrounded by beautiful mountains
and forests where archaeologists have
unearthed a tumular necropolis dating
to the early Bronze Age.

A short distance from L\pu[ is the small 'Elder's' table covered by the eaves on the
village of Rogoz, home to another UNESCO northern side of the church has markings
monument. corresponding to the families entitled to sit
at it. On religious holidays, these families
According to tradition, the church „The offered meals to the poor in memory of the
Saint Archangels Michael and Gabriel” dead.
was built in 1633 from two huge twin trees
brought from Dealul Popii (The Priest's Rogoz is also home to a master woodcarver,
Hill). The church seems to have survived Mr. {erban, whose sign-posted home and
the Tartar invasion of 1717 as the Land of workshop can be found just up the road
L\pu[ was affected less by the danger from from the church.
the Tartars than the Land of Maramure[. contact info:
The interior frescoes, painted in 1785 by Rogoz, No. 247, Tel ^40 745 642 120
Radu Munteanu and Nicolae Man, remain
only in the nave and in the pronaos, with The first town you will drive through after
some of the scenes split up and others leaving Rogoz is Târgu L\pu[, the region's
faded. oldest settlement and the starting point for
various routes through the Land of L\pu[.
The uniqueness of the church „Saint
Archangels Michael and Gabriel” is given by Contact Info for visiting the church:
its southern entrance, asymmetrical roof Land of L\pu[ Microregion Association,
and horse-head cantilever joints. The tel: ^40 262 384 438, www.lapus.ro

20
Accomodation
Maria Guesthouse, Rohia
tel: ^40 262 387 422
www.pensiuneamaria.com

Pensiunea Aurica, T=rgu L\pu[


}ible[ului Street, No. 54,
tel: ^40 262 385 082

One of the most beautiful attractions in the Land of L\pu[ is the


Monastery of Rohia 12 km South from Târgu L\pu[. This place
impresses with an atmosphere of peace and meditation, its
park, buildings and vast library. Rohia was one of the centers of
spiritual resistance against communism and one of the most
profound thinkers of contemporary Romanian culture, Nicolae
Steinhardt, chose to follow the path of voluntary seclusion here.
The monastery welcomes guests throughout the year.

21
plopis,
to the dedication of the church was extracted
F rom Târgu L\pu[, the trail continues
beneath the quaint „Culmea Prelucii”
Mountains. After the village of Cerne[ti, in the
from a document drafted on the occasion of
its dedication which was later found in the
abutment of the altar. It was here that 49
middle of the forest, sign-posted and 2 km coins, deposited by each family of the
from the main road, is the „Florean Museum”, village, were also discovered.
an outdoor marble sculpture museum. The
pleasant walk through the forest to the museum Despite the relatively modest dimensions:
is approximately 20 minutes each way. Moving 17 m in length, 7 m in breadth and 47 m in
further along the main road you will turn right height, the church at Plopi[ is remarkable
once you reach Copalnic M\n\[tur and continue for its well-balanced proportions, giving
on to the remaining two UNESCO wooden credence to the opinion that the church is
churches in Maramure[. First up is the church one of the most united and integrated
at Plopi[, located about 2 km off the main religious constructions in Maramure[.
road. We are now in the Land of Chioar.
According to tradition, the frescoes, the
Just like the church at Rogoz, the wooden
iconostasis, and the altar icon are attributed
church of Plopi[ is also devoted to the Saint
to {tefan the Painter, and were completed
Archangels Michael and Gabriel, whose
between 1810-1811. The inscription at
celebratration every year is held on
the back of the altar icon certifies this
November 8th.
paternity, namely that it was painted by
{tefan the Painter.
The village of Plopi[, situated in the
Cavnic Valley, is first mentioned in
The size of the church, the proportions of
documents in 1583, as a settlement
the body of the church, realized in the
belonging to the Chioar Fortress.
Blockblau style, and the roof exhibit an
exceptional sense of harmony. The
The inhabitants of Plopi[ were
steeple is raised above the pronaos with
renowned for their carpentry skills and
a robust structure that is imposed by its
the fruits of their labors can be found
considerable height and includes a
throughout the county. In 1798 the
pyramidal helmet framed in the four
villagers began construction of a new
corners by four miniature towers giving
church meant to replace their older
the church a soaring silhouette..
house of worship. On the 12th of
November 1811, to the joy of the 49
founder-families the new church was
completed. The information referring

22
surdesti
,
U pon leaving Plopi[, turn right once back to
the main road for the trip to the village of
{urde[ti. The wooden church of {urde[ti,
devoted to the Saint Archaengels Michael and
Gabriel, was built in 1721 under the direction
of Toma Macarie. The church steeple is claimed
to be the tallest old wooden structure in the
world. In the past, people believed that the
taller the church tower was, the easier their
prayers could reach up to Heaven.

The interior frescoes, executed by {tefan of


{i[e[ti in 1783, were applied on canvas
strips which in turn fill the gaps between
the wooden beams. On Sundays this church
is still used by the locals as a house of
worship. As with so many of the churches
in Maramure[, the one in {urde[ti is an
integral part of the village landscape. Apple
trees grow in the courtyard and outside of
the protective gates, firewood is stacked
next door to provide heat in winter, and
barrels of harvested fruit await transport to
the nearest Palinc\ still.

Recently, an Information Center has been the UNESCO World Heritage Monuments in
inaugurated in {urde[ti by Mrs. Georgeta Maramure[. Upon leaving the church,
Iuga, a very enthusiastic promoter of return to the main road and turn right.
Maramure[ traditional art. Visitors to this Follow the road, until you reach Baia Sprie,
center are invited to admire pieces of art at which point a left turn will return you
made by local artisans and can find all kinds shortly to Baia Mare.
of information on rural heritage. You can
Contact Info for visiting the church:
find cozy accommodation at the Amethyst
^40 262 298 744
Guesthouse, located on the main road
running through {urde[ti. This village is
also known for its traditional spring custom
known as „Ud\toriu”. Every year, on the
Accomodation
second day of Easter, the hardest working Amethyst Guesthouse, {urde[ti,
villager („ud\toriu”) is celebrated by all the Cavnicului Street,
locals. After the celebrating ritual, the No 455, tel: ^40 262 289 530
„ud\toriu„ will host a big feast and dance! www.amethyst.baiamare.rdsnet.ro
The church at {urde[ti ends our itinerary of
23
Useful Information
MARAMURE{ TOURISM CENTERS
County Center for Tourism Information
„Maramure[ Infoturism”
Gheorghe {incai Street, No. 46,
Baia Mare, Tel: ^40 262 216 674
email: maramuresinfoturism@yahoo.com
www.maramurescounty.ro
www.visitmaramures.ro
Antrec Maramure[
Baia Mare, Gh {incai Street, No. 46,
Tel: ^40 214 118
e-mail: maramures@antrec.ro
MTMM - Land of Maramure[ Microregion Association
Sighetu-Marma]iei, Libert\]ii Square, No. 21,
Tel: ^40 262 312 552
e-mail: contact@mtmm.ro www.mtmm.ro
Land of L\pu[ Microregion Association
Târgu L\pu[, Eroilor Square, No. 10, Tel: ^40 262 384 438
e-mail: atl@lapus.ro, www.lapus.ro
OVR Agro-Tur-Art Vadu Izei
Foundation Vadu Izei
Main Street, No. 161,
Tel: ^40 262 330 171
e-mail: office@ovr.ro ; www.vaduizei.ovr.ro
Valea Verde Association
Vadu Izei, {ug\u Street, No. 75,
Tel: ^40 262 330 602
e-mail: valeaverde_mm@yahoo.com
Pro Vi[eu Foundation
Vi[eu de Sus, Libert\]ii Street, No. 1, Tel: ^40 262 352 285
e-mail: proviseu@ns.alphanet.ro
www.turismviseu.ro
Iuga Foundation
Baia Mare, Republicii Boulevard,
No. 37, Ap. 5
artizanat@rdslink.ro, www.artizanat.org

23
EDITED BY:

CHF International Romania


Baia Mare, Unirii Bd, No. 16/16,
Tel: ^40 362 801 094
www.chf.ro

TEXT MADE WITH THE SUPPORT OF:

CDIMM Foundation
Baia Mare, Traian Bd, No. 9/16
Tel: ^40 262 224 870; ^40 262 222 409
www.cdimm.org

Maramure[ County Direction for Culture,


Cults and National Cultural Heritage
Gheorghe {incai Street, No. 46,
Tel: ^40 262 2212042
www.maramures.djc.ro

Mihai D\ncu[
Director of Maramure[ Museum,
Sighetu-Marma]iei

GRAPHIC DESIGN:
Relief Advertising

This brochure is financed by United States Agency for International Development

(USAID), through the tourism component of the Enterprise Development and

Strengthening program.

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