Mughal Gardens of Kashmir Seminar - Site Visit Handouts

mughal gardens of kashmir
TOWARDS THE UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE NOMINATION
SITE VISITS HANDOUT

International Seminar: 14th – 16th May 2011 – University of Kashmir, Srinagar, Kashmir
Source: This handout is based on the text for the ‘Tentative List Submission - Serial Nomination
of the Mughal Gardens in Kashmir’ (INTACH J&K, 2011).
The serial nomination includes the following properties:

1. Nishat Bagh (Site visit on 15 May)
2. Shalimar Bagh (Site visit on 14 May)
3. Achabal Bagh (Not included in visits)
4. Chashma Shahi (Site visit on 15 May)
5. Pari Mahal (Site visit on 15 May)
6. Verinag (Not included in visits)
4&5
Google 2010
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Mughal Gardens of Kashmir: Towards the UNESCO World Heritage Nomination – Site Visits Handout
1. Nishat Bagh
Laid out in the 17th C. (1634 AD) by Mirza Abul Hasan, the Nishat Bagh is amongst the most
prominent gardens that the Mughals developed in Hindustan. The bagh or garden is located
directly along the eastern bank of the Dal Lake on the foot of Zabarwan mountain range. The
garden stretches out over a rectangular area of approximately 116.70 acres, and measures
about 556.50 x 350.00 m, which equals 6 quarters (3 x 2) of the traditional chahar bagh
concept.
Nishat Bagh’s exceptional quality lies therefore in its setting, the complex terraced layout, the
play of water cascades, the views it offers, and its ecology. Length-wise, the garden consists of
twelve terraces, supposedly symbolizing the twelve signs of the zodiac, though Mughal sources
only ten terraces. The width of the garden consists of seven linear sections, which make up
three main sections; a central wing with the main water features and two lower laying side
wings. The terraces in the garden rise not only from the Dal Lake up the mountain side, along
the length of the garden, but also along its width from the side wings to the central channel axis.
The sophisticated geometrical manner by which the chahar bagh concept and terraces have
been adapted to the contours of the mountainside contribute towards making Nishat Bagh one
of the finest representations of traditional chahar bagh garden layouts spread across the Islamic
world.
Of key significance is the location of the garden along the bank of Dal Lake, with the lowest
terrace directly connecting to the lake and with key historic views from the terraces and
pavilions to the lake. The Oont Kadal, a historic bridge located in the lake, forms an integral part
of the composition, as key views from the garden align with it and continue across it to the Hari
Parbat Fort, which rises above Srinagar across the lake. The views towards the vast Dal Lake
from each of its ascending terraces are wide and uninterrupted, presenting the full expanse of
the wide Dal Lake and its western shores. The historic approach to Nishat Bagh, coming from
Dal Lake and passing under the Oont Kadal on a boat, similarly offers remarkable views and
reveals the full scope of the rising terraces and the wider historic agricultural landscape and
mountain backdrop.
The central axis with the water features contains the main ornamental water features and
pavilions. The side wings and terraces were predominantly terraced orchard plantations with
irrigation channels, terraced walks and shading avenues. The uppermost terrace was the
zenana or the private section of the garden. Nishat Bagh was a more private garden than its
near neighbour, the Shalimar Bagh, which was also used for holding Royal Durbars. It therefore
did not require having as many associated buildings as Shalimar Bagh. Yet the magnificence of
the garden is so powerful that it often enjoys more praises than the Shalimar Bagh. Key historic
architectural structures include the water channel, the water cascades and pools, the fountains,
the terrace walls, the boundary walls, stone abutments at the bank of the lake, pavilions, and
the watch towers (burjis) at the corners of the zenana retaining wall.
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Sketch plan of Nishat Bagh and the wider setting in 2010, illustrating its location along Dal Lake
and the Oont Kadal and causeway across the lake (Haenraets, 2010).
3
Colour sketch Master Plan illustrating the layout of Nishat Bagh (Haenraets, 2010).
4
The chahar bagh concept in Nishat Bagh. The bagh equals a 2 x 3 dimension that reflect six
quarters of a chahar bagh (Haenraets, 2010).
Sketch plan illustrating the main terraces in Nishat Bagh (Haenraets, 2010)
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Photograph from the Ninth Terrace across the main Historic photograph illustrating the lost
channel and to the lost baradari on the Third Terrace, baradari, pavilions and steps (Nathan
and Dal Lake in the background (Jellicoe, 1972: 116). Hughes, 1951).
Vie w across the water tank on the Eleventh The central water channel and cascades at
terrace to Dal Lake at Nishat Bagh (Haenraets, Nishat Bagh (Haenraets, 2010).
2010).
The Octagonal Throne on the Eleventh The restored baradari and water channel in
Terrace at Nishat Bagh (Haenraets, 2010). the zenana at Nishat Bagh (Haenraets, 2010).
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Vie w from the Third Terrace to Dal Lake at The Oont Kadal in Dal Lake with in the
NishatBagh (Haenraets, 2010). background NishatBagh (Haenraets, 2010).
The terraced side wings at Nishat Bagh, The Octagonal Watchto wer and retaining
w hich functioned as raised khayabans terrace on the Eleventh Terrace at Nishat
(Haenraets, 2010). Bagh (Haenraets, 2010).
The arched retaining wall to the Third Terrace Detail of the waterfall from the retaining wall
at Nishat Bagh (Haenraets, 2010). to the ThirdTerrace at Nishat Bagh
(Haenraets, 2010).
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2. Shalimar Bagh
Early origins of the Shalimar Bagh garden and cultural landscape go as far back as the 6th C. As
it is believed that at Shalimar a villa was built by Pravarassena II in the late 6th Century, when
the garden was a sacred site. The small village at the site retained the name Shalimar, while the
villa and garden vanished. In the 16th C. An early Muslim King, Zain-ul-Abidin, is said to have
created the canal and a bund (embankment) to Shalimar. The Farah Bakhsh, the ‘Joy-Imparting’
garden or lower garden of Shalimar Bagh was created by Emperor Jahangir around 1620. The
construction was overseen by Prince Khurram, the later Shah Jahan. Like the Nishat Bagh, this
garden was also developed along the lines of traditional chahar bagh concept. After his
accession to the throne Shah Jahan added the Fayz Bakhsh, the ‘Bounty-Bestowing’ garden or
the zenana to the earlier Farah Bakhsh at Shalimar Bagh. The work was carried out around
1630 by Zafar Khan, the Mughal governor of Kashmir and included the building of the black
marble pavilion in the zenana.
The present size of the garden measures approximately 594 x 250 m and represent five main
terraces that make up two and a half chahar baghs. The whole of the royal garden was divided
into two major parts as per the requirement of the royalty. The lower portion, comprising the first
three terraces was the Diwan-i-Aam where the emperor used to hold public audience. The
upper two terraces were exclusively for the Emperor and his courtiers and hence rightly called
the Diwan-i-Khas. These two parts were screened by means of a thick masonry wall having two
similar gateways at each side of the water channel. This area was also called the zenana and,
as the name suggests, was a private zone for the Empress and her ladies.
Shalimar Bagh is more ostentatious in architectural quality when compared with its other
parallels in Kashmir. Almost all the terrace edges at the Shalimar Bagh have something
interesting to offer in the form of pavilions, pools, or water cascades. The whole texture of the
garden, in fact, is a result of the relationship of the garden’s built and landscaped environment.
The scale and decorations of the buildings, however, seem to have been intentionally
underplayed by the Mughals to avoid offering competition with the overarching natural beauty
that surrounds the garden. The two most important structures within the Shalimar Bagh are the
Pink Pavilion, in the Diwan-i-Aam zone of the garden, and the Black Pavilion, located in the
Diwan-i-Khas. Considering that there was not much building activity by the Mughals in Kashmir,
compared to the rest of India, these structures offer a rare opportunity to witness Mughal
architecture in this region. The Pink Pavilion is located over the water channel of the second
terrace. It is a rectangular open pavilion constructed in traditional badshahi bricks. The
significant architectural details of the Pavilion comprise the papier mache ceilings, the carved
columns, brackets and railings made of stone.
The Black Pavilion (also an open Pavilion), rectangular in plan, is located on the fourth terrace
in the zenana. Constructed principally in brick masonry, the walls of the Pavilion have stone
facing, with recessed niches and naqashi (paintings) on walls. Outstanding workmanship is
displayed in the carvings of the stone columns and brackets around the Pavilion. The name,
Black Pavilion, is related to the stone used for the walls and columns, which appears very black
when polished.
The enclosed garden has six watch towers; at each of its four corners and also in the middle.
Despite the fact that the original Mughal planting scheme has worn-out over the years, the
garden is lush with, flowers, well-mowed turf and some fruit trees. The outstanding quality of
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Shalimar Bagh lies in the synthesis of its landscape and architectural features. The wider setting
of the rural agricultural landscape, the rice fields and hamlets, the historic canal that links the
garden to Dal Lake, and the mountain backdrop, all contribute to the significance of Shalimar
Bagh.
Apart from this, while most other significant Mughal Gardens of India are commonly an
associated feature of a mausoleum or a monument, the Shalimar Bagh should be valued for the
fact that it is amongst the very few surviving authentic Mughal gardens that were developed for
pleasure, enjoyment and also for holding Court. The Shalimar Bagh therefore is testimony to the
lavish Mughal lifestyle which made the Court escape, every summer, from the scorching heat of
the Indian plains, and travel hundreds of miles to find respite in the greens of the garden.
Sketch illustrating the Landscape Master Plan for the wider Shalimar Bagh Cultural Landscape
(Haenraets, 2010).
The chahar bagh concept in Shalimar Bagh, Kashmir, with a double chahar bagh (Haenraets,
2010).
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Sketch illustrating the Landscape Master Plan for the garden at Shalimar Bagh (Haenraets, 2010).
10
Historic photograph by Samuel Bourne in Water colour by Constance Villiers-Stuart of

1860s of the tree-lined canal outside the the Hall of Public Audience (Villiers-Stuart,
garden of Shalimar Bagh (Bourne, 1860). 1913).
Photograph by Samuel Bourne from 1860s of

the main channel at Shalimar Bagh in the
Zenana, taken from the Black Pavilion
The two lost baradaris in the centre of the
(Bourne, 1860)
Emperor’s Garden at the water tank with the
stone throne. (N.N.)
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The channel at the First Terrace with the Pink The hauz with the stone throne in the Second
Pavilion (Haenraets, 2010). Terrace (Haenraets, 2010).
The Hamman during restoration (Haenraets, The channel on the Third Terrace leading to
2010). the Two Gateway Pavilions to the Fourth
Terrace and Zenana (Haenraets, 2010).
A vie w from the branch channel to the Black A vie w from the Black Pavilion down the main
Pavilion (Haenraets, 2010). w ater channel (Haenraets, 2010).
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One of the sub-quarters on the Third Terrace. The Fourth Terrace with a remaining mature
The burji can be partly seen in the Cypress tree, as part of a former quarted
background (Haenraets, 2010). planting on the intersections of the sunken
quarters (Haenraets, 2010).
The canal and rice fields in the wider landscape The boundary wall and a burji from beyond
of Shalimar Bagh (Haenraets, 2010). the garden (Haenraets, 2010).
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3. Achabal Bagh
The royal garden of Achabal is located near Anantnag predates the arrival of the Mughals in
Kashmir. It was renowned even during the time of the Sultans of Kashmir in the 15th C. when
an orchard garden existed at the site. The ancient Hindu text of Nilmat Purana mentions the
existence of a spring by the name of Achapal Nag at the site. The present garden was laid by
Empress Nur Jahan in 1620 and was named after her as Begumabad. The garden was also
known as Sahebabad during the Mughal period, which Kashmiri historians associate with
Emperor Jahangir, but most probably was adapted at a much later date in memory of Jahangir’s
granddaughter, Jehanova Begum.
The spring at the Achabal Bagh was popular at one time for its curative values and the amount
of water it supplied. The Achabal Bagh, with its abundant Chinar trees and roaring water
channels, is yet another embodiment of the Mughal landscape genius demonstrated in Kashmir.
The garden is trapezoidal in shape with an area of around 9.7 acres and follows the traditional
char bagh concept. It is developed on the base of a forested mountain, locally known as
Acchabal Thung. The pre-existing garden was greatly enhanced and rearranged by Empress
Noor Jehan and consisted of four gently ascending terrace levels, based on the theme of the
chahar bagh. The central feature of the garden is the spring, whose water is collected in a canal
(nahr), branch canals (jadwal, juyee) with platforms (nashiman) and pavilions (baradari) built
over the water channel. The spring which is presently protected under a modern shelter feeds
the entire garden for its irrigation as well as aesthetic needs. It combines the appeal of a stately
stone bordered pleasance lying in between ordered avenues of full grown trees with the natural
rock and woodland background. A hammam was constructed within the garden by Jehanra
Begum, the eldest daughter of Emperor Shah Jahan in the 17th C. The remains of an earlier
baradari or pavilion can still be seen on the site of the spring.
The mountain (Acchabal Thung) looms impressively over the garden and creates a splendid
background for it. The Achabal Bagh is remote and is still largely unaffected by urban
development or civil infringement and therefore there are good opportunities for defining buffer
areas around it for its long-term protection and sustenance. The Achabal Bagh may seem
similar to other Mughal Gardens of Kashmir in terms of layout but it is strikingly distinctive in its
visual quality and experience. The scale of the garden is also modest when compared with its
other parallels in Kashmir, yet it is unique for its remote location and natural setting.
Furthermore, the garden continues to rely on its original source of water supply which for some
other Mughal Gardens of Kashmir and elsewhere has either eroded or disappeared over the
course of time.
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Ground plan from 1913 of Achabal Bagh (Villiers-Stuart, 1913).
15
Historic photograph of Achabal Bagh in the The central water channel at Achabal Bagh
18th C., undergoing restoration works (Haenraets, 2010).
(INTACH J&K, 2005).
The water channel at Achabal Bagh The restored baradari at Achabal Bagh
(Haenraets, 2010). (Haenraets, 2010).
One of the side channels and two mature The cascades to the top terrace at Achabal
chinar trees at Achabal Bagh (Haenraets, Bagh (Haenraets, 2010).
2010).
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4. Chashma Shahi
The garden was developed on the orders of Emperor Shah Jahan in 1632 by Ali Mardan Khan
around an abundant spring emerging from the slopes of the Zabarwan Mountains. The waters of
the spring are renowned for their cool and rejuvenating qualities.
Oriented on the north-south axis, the garden is arranged on three ascending terraces. The total
area within the rectangular garden perimeter is approximately 1.73 acres with a width of 70.83
m and length of 122.81 m, approximately. The spring is sheltered under a pavilion which is of a
later Kashmiri period. The water from the spring, located at the uppermost edge of the garden,
is led through narrow water channels that drop sharply in the form of cascades to successive
lower terrace levels. The defining feature of this garden is its very high terraces and strong
Mughal character of its gateway, cascades and retaining walls.
Chashma Shahi continues to retain the natural spring around which it was built and is unique for
its high terraces, and distant, yet outstanding, views of the Dal Lake from its terraces. The
garden is known to be at its best during late afternoons and evenings. This garden stands out
from the rest of the gardens for its narrow rills and singular fountains within its pools – adopting
the typology of early Mughal gardens of India.
Ground plan of the existing garden layout and terraces at Chasma Shahi (INTACH J&K, 2009).
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The channel to the pavilion with the spring at A chadder (cascade) and large water tak,
Chasma Shahi (Haenraets, 2010). against the mountain setting of Chasma
Shahi (Haenraets, 2010).
The side terraces at Chasma Shahi The first terrace and water tank at Chasma
(Haenraets, 2010). Shahi (Haenraets, 2010).
The baradari with the famous spring at Side terraces at Chasma Shahi (Haenraets,
Chasma Shahi (Haenraets, 2010). 2010).
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5. Pari Mahal
Pari Mahal is also located west of the city centre of Srinagar, near Chasma Shahi, on the slopes
of the Zebanwan mountains. Prince Dara Shukoh, the eldest son of Shah Jahan, built the
gardens around 1650. It was built at the site of the ruins of a Buddhist Monastery and as a
residential School of Sufiism at the instance of his revered spiritual tutor Mullah Shah
Badakhshi. It is believed that Pari Mahal was constructed for astronomical observations and
teachings or astrological calculations under the Mughals. Dara Shukoh named it after his wife
Nadira Begum, supposed to be known as Pari Begum, the daughter of Prince Parviz, a son of
Jahangir.
Pari Mahal has a domed ceiling with gardens laid out on six terraces around. Arched retaining
walls support the terraces, which vary in width. The garden is 122 m by 62.5 m at its widest. The
terraces can be accessed via sets of steps on their corners. A pavilion or baradari can be found
on the fourth terrace and another one connects the fifth and sixth terrace. The garden is entered
from the fourth terrace where there are a series of entrance buildings, which are believed to
have contained a hamman.
The gardens are said to have been watered by a nearby spring. There are water tanks on the
terraces, but unlike most Mughal Gardens in Kashmir, the garden contains no water channels
and cascades (chadars) that feed the water tanks. Instead water is supplied through a system of
underground pipes.
The arched terraces at Pari Mahal and one of The view to Dal Lake and the mountain
the water tanks (INTACH J&K, 2005). setting at Pari Mahal (Haenraets, 2010).
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6. Verinag
Verinag is an octagonal pavilion-garden, built around a spring which is the acknowledged
source of Jehlum River and also its principal feeder. The garden was constructed by Malik
Haider, an able Kashmiri engineer of the Mughal Court at the behest of Emperor Jahangir. A
Persian quatrain indicates the date of construction of the garden as 1619-20. The garden was
enlarged further between 1626 and 1627, during Emperor Shah Jahan’s reign and was
renamed Shahabad.
The spring is enclosed within a perfectly geometric octagonal arcade with a fairly wide stone
walkway that surrounds the spring. In plan, the garden is a large octagonal tank connected to a
very long and straight water channel (12’ wide and 1000’ long) going towards the north that
reaches a point where it discharges to feed the Jehlum River. The spring is believed to be at its
deepest around 15.24 m and has abundant trout fish, which is claimed to have never been
consumed owing to certain religious sentiments. This attitude has helped in maintaining the
spring as a rich fish-reserve.
A number of baradaris, royal bathrooms, were also constructed in the garden, which have been
lost over time. The garden, as many Kashmiri Mughal gardens, was repaired extensively during
Dogra period in 1870s. The outstanding quality of Verinag is the blend of the surrounding
landscape with the formal geometry of the garden. The abrupt rise of the densely forested hills
creates a distinctive background to the arcaded pavilion around the spring. While the forests are
rich in deodars (Cedrus deodara), the blue-green waters of the spring are replete with fish. The
formality created by the octagonal perimeter around the spring and the linear water channel
suddenly disappears when the water merges with the natural course of the Jhelum River.
Verinag was the personal favourite of Emperor Jahangir and it was his great wish to be buried
here.
Watercolour of Verinag Spring (INTACH J&K Historic photograph of Verinag Spring.

2005). Along the central channel the contours of
sunken quarters can be seen (Villiers-
Stuart, 1913).
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mughal gardens of kashmir

TOWARDS THE UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE NOMINATION

SITE VISITS HANDOUT

The serial nomination includes the following properties:

Historic photograph by Samuel Bourne in Water colour by Constance Villiers-Stuart of

Photograph by Samuel Bourne from 1860s of

Ground plan from 1913 of Achabal Bagh (Villiers-Stuart, 1913).

Watercolour of Verinag Spring (INTACH J&K Historic photograph of Verinag Spring.

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