Compost Manual: A Complete Guide To Composting

Compost Guide - What is Composting?
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Compost Manual .......... A complete guide to composting.

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Compost Manual
What Is Composting?
Compost is decayed, organic plant matter. Composting is the result of a complex feeding pattern where aerobic microbes (bacteria and fungi that thrive on oxygen) feed on organic waste and break it down into a nutritious soil amendment. As the compost is mixed and aerated, these organic materials break down into a rich substance the same way that plants decay and are recycled in any ecosystem. This in turn creates fluffy, arable soil known as humus. All organic matter breaks down into compost over time, but the decomposition process on its own can take quite a while. Composting creates a controlled environment to rapidly convert waste into a powerful, nutrient-rich matter that is ideal in your garden, on your lawn, or in your potted plants. Along with fuel efficiency, water conservation, and reduction in meat consumption, home composting is one of the most environmentally beneficial activities you can participate in. Yard and food waste make up approximately thirty percent of the waste stream in the U.S. If every household participated in composting, it would divert a significant portion of the waste stream from our landfills and water treatment facilities. If you combined composting with recycling cans, newspapers, and plastic, you could reduce your waste flow by almost fifty percent! By composting, you are preventing our crowded landfills from overflowing and giving something back to nature. Proper compost is an incredibly nutritious soil amendment, buffering the pH and retaining moisture and oxygen in the soil. It can cool the soil surface and help mitigate erosion by encouraging a vigorous root system boosted by nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus and other nutrients. Composting helps control and suppress plant pathogens, as well as provide food for microorganisms, which keep the soil healthy and balanced. It improves the structure of problematic soils, breaking up heavy clay soils and retaining water better in sandy soils. Compost is chemical freechildren and pets can enjoy the beautiful bounty of your organic lawn without exposure to toxins or synthetic products, making it an excellent, cheaper alternative to commercial fertilizers. Homeowners everywhere are starting to realize how convenient and economical it is to compost waste they would have otherwise thrown away. Why buy premium topsoil when you create your own endless supply for free? Home composting also serves as an invaluable educational tool, teaching children about conservation, the cycle of life, and the inter-connectedness of the natural world. If it gets your child thinking about science or biology, or voluntarily participating in yard work, its well worth the effort!
How To Compost
Composting is a dynamic process; it takes skill and the ideal conditions to aid the decomposition process. The good news is that decomposition naturally occurs with or without your help, so half the battle already won. Once you understand the major factors behind composting, you can apply them to adjust your efforts and turn your compost bin, tumbler, or open pile into an efficient composting machine. The real trick is to get your pile to decompose as fast as you can fill it. When you neglect your compost pile, it will decompose very slowly, otherwise known as passive composting. Fast or active composting can happen much more quickly because the aerobic bacteria breakdown much faster. Passive composting involves little energy or effort, but takes much longer. Active composting, on the other hand, requires a bit more work but yields results faster. How you compost depends on your needs. If you want to produce as much compost as possible, you want to be actively managing your compost. If you are looking to get rid of yard waste, go with passive composting.
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The rate at which breakdown occurs depends on several factors: oxygenation, temperature, water content, particulate surface area, and the carbon to nitrogen ratio. If you pay attention to these things, the temperature will rise to around 130-140 degrees, ensuring rapid decomposition. Moisture is keyyour compost should feel damp, but never wet. When its over inoculated, it limits the oxygen that bacteria require. The rule of thumb is that it should be as wet as a well-wrung sponge. Similarly, if your compost is too dry, bacteria cannot survive, thereby slowing down the decomposing process. If your pile doesnt heat up, its possible that your compost pile is too wet, too dry, or there is not enough protein (greens). You can measure the temperature with a compost thermometer. Aeration is equally important, as your compost needs oxygen to decompose. Keep your compost pile breathing by turning it by hand with a pitchfork. A compost tumbler takes out this step by aerating the compost for you as it tumbles in the bin. Look for ones with vents on the side to keep your compost properly aerated. If you dont have a compost tumbler, try a metal aerator that will help take some of the work out of turning the pile. Almost all organic material works in a compost pile. Youre aiming for a good balance between carbon-rich matter (browns) and nitrogen-rich materials (greens). Brown materials are things like dried leaves, wood chips and straw, whereas greens constituted grass clippings and kitchen scraps. Active composting requires finding the right mix for your compost pile. Ideally, the ratio is 25:1 (25 parts brown to 1 part green), but it can varytoo much carbon will slow the process, while too much nitrogen will cause odor. This is where owning a chipper shredder is quite handy, since you need leaves and wood chips for browns. It also may be worth it to save yard waste, because as the seasons change, it becomes harder to find what you need. Although you can compost all year long, the decomposition rate will slow down as temperatures drop. Consider stockpiling winter organics in a covered container stored outside so you can add them to your compost bin or tumbler in the spring. Store fallen leaves from autumn in bags that you can use later during the spring and summer; likewise, keep grass clipping and other greens around during the winter months (they can last about one to two weeks). Choosing a good composting site will help speed up the process. Start building your compost over soil or lawn instead of on a patio so you can take advantage of earthworms and microbes. Look for an area thats level and well-drained. If youre adding kitchen scraps, keep it near the back door, but not so far away youll forget its there. If you live in a cooler climate, put the pile in a sunny spot so it can trap solar heat, and find it some shelter during the winter months so the decaying process doesnt slow down. If you live in a warmer climate, keep the pile in a shadier spot so it wont dry out. And remember to look for a spot that will allow you to compost unobtrusively; try to distance it from the neighbors yard and put up visual barriers. A compost bin will keep it contained, and is easier to manage than an open compost pile. Shredded organic materials heat up and decompose faster. The smaller the composting pieces, the faster the pile with decay. Add new materials, remembering to layer them. Mixing distributes microorganisms evenly allows for faster decomposition at the same time, so that there is a more balanced carbon to nitrogen rate, as well as better moisture and air migration. The goal is to create an active, hot batch of compost, so the more effort you put into your pile, the more black gold youre going to get! After youve attained the right mix of browns and greens, the right amount of moisture, and the ideal aeration and heat from turning, your batch of compost will be well on its way to becoming the soil amendment your plants so desperately crave. However, it would be irresponsible to give an exact time frame for when waste becomes humus, as several factors will impact how quickly breakdown occurs. Peak seasons for composting are spring and autumn, when the atmosphere is warm and damp. Piles created during this time, with shredded materials that are frequently aerated, can be ready in approximately 2-4 months. Properly tended soft waste in warm weather can take as little as 4-6 weeks. Piles prepared in the winter or late fall, created with larger or tougher pieces of waste, or left unattended, will take longer to decay. When your compost is done, it will be approximately half of its original size. You should not be able to discern individual items you placed in the bin. Look for a dark color, crumbly texture, and earthy smell. Slimy compost is a sign that the process was done incorrectly at some point. If you experience trouble
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with clumps or mats, organize your organic wastes into thinner layers, and use aerators or a pitchfork to work your pile. Many people think that composting is a smelly processits not true! If you properly manage your compost pile, you should not be producing offensive odors. Compost should have an earthy, pleasant smell similar to a forest floor after rain. If you do smell something suspicious, odor problems are easily fixed, so dont become discouraged. Soon after your compost pile is established, you should begin seeing sundry little critters throughout the pile contents. These helpers, which usually migrate from other parts of the garden or the soil beneath the pile, can range from arthropods and flying insects to microorganisms like bacteria and fungi. Dont be alarmed! They are all part of the soil-borne community that is critical to the decomposition process. Do not attempt to eradicate or remove these beneficial creatures, and do not use any chemicals or sprays that would normally harm them. Let them flourish and your compost will flourish with them. If possible, use rainwater from a rain barrel to moisten the pile, as chlorinated municipal water sources can slow down the natural rate of breakdown. For your convenience, weve provided a chart describing the factors that could affect your compost. Use it as a quick reference and guide: Factors Affecting description Rate Oxygen is required for respiration by all aerobic inhabitants within the pile. Aerobic microbes decompose waste at a faster rate than their anaerobic brethren, and would not produce the foul odors associated with anaerobic decomposition. Adequate ventilation and manually turning or mixing your pile Oxygenation with aerators or pile turners twice a month increases its rate of decomposition. An unmixed pile may take three to four times longer before it breaks down. If purely manual mixing is not to your fancy, you can invest in a compost tumbler that aerates by turning. Heat is a byproduct of decomposition and accelerates the process. The optimum temperature for fast decomposition is between 90 and 135 degrees F. Whether it is due to cold climate or insufficient bacterial activity, Temperature when the temperature falls below this, decomposition will slow, but not cease. To keep temperatures elevated, try an insulation jacket or better placement for maximizing radiant solar heat. Also choose black colored bins in cooler climate zones. An efficient composter needs to have a moisture content of approximately 50% (it should feel like a damp towel) for microbial activity. If it is too dry, decomposition will slow down considerably, while overly wet piles can Water trigger anaerobic conditions and begin to smell. Keep the pile covered Content during heavy rains, so that valuable nutrients are not washed away. Add rain water from your rain barrel when dry spells occur (chlorine in municipal water can kill the organisms in your living system). Maximize this by shredding and chipping all clippings and waste into small Surface Area pieces with a chipper/shredder. The more surface area you expose for microorganisms to attack, the faster the decomposition. Organic materials rich in nitrogen are referred to as GREENS (fresh veggie Carbon: scraps or grass clippings), while the others can be lumped together as Nitrogen BROWNS (hay, twigs, dried leaves). A good general rule of thumb is use Ratio 2-3 parts brown to 1 part green. When initially building your pile, always remember to layer, layer, layer! Alternating layers ensures proper mixing. Lets review how to setup a composting station: 1. Choose a moderately sunny, accessible area for your composter. If youre using a compost bin, turn the soil in your chosen location. 2. Start your green and brown layering process, beginning with a layer of small branches at the bottom that will allow for proper circulation and drainage. 3. Top off your new pile with finished compost or good garden soil to ensure an introduction of bacteria to your waste. 4. Aerate regularly by mixing, checking moisture content. Harvest the finished compost, and youre all set to enjoy a beautiful, healthy garden!
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Dos and Don'ts

What to put in your compost bin:
Almost anything botanical will work in your compost bin. Dead leaves during fall are outstanding, since they can help improve all soil types and aerate heavy clay soils. A lawn sweeper is a good idea to help collect leavesits much faster than raking and picks up leftover foliage better. Tree limbs and branches turned into wood chips and sawdust are also great, although these need to be chopped or shredded. Again, having a chipper shredder around will make this job a lot easier. Grass clippings decompose quickly and have as much nitrogen as manure, but you need to mix them well with plenty of browns so that they dont become anaerobic and clump together. Seedlings, dead plants and decapitated flower heads should also be thrown in as green materials. Spoiled hay or straw is a great carbon (brown) material. Seaweed is another great source for composting, but be sure to wash off the salt first. Manure is a given; it contains both nitrogen and microbes, in addition to being full of nutrients. Use manure from herbivores, as meat-eating animal manure can have harmful pathogens. Let manure age a little bit to avoid overheating your compost pile and killing off good bacteria and earthworms, and layer it with other browns like straw or leaves to keep things balanced. Kitchen scraps include melon rinds, carrot peelings, tea bags, coffee grinds, orange peels, apple cores, banana peels, corn cobs and corn stalks, peanut shells, alfalfa or sprouts, and egg shells (although these need to be crushed to break down faster). Keep a kitchen scrap carrier handy so you can easily add biodegradable items to your compost pile every few days. If your compost pile is open, over the scraps with brown materials to deter pests from visiting your compost. Shredded cardboard boxes, newspapers, paper (particularly those with soy-based inks) and sawdust from untreated wood will all contribute nicely to your organic potpourri. You should always keep in mind not to put too much of any one thing init can throw off the N-P-K balance, not to mention the pH. If adding paper products, keep it at 10% or less of the compost material weight, as these products are low in nitrogen and slow rates of decomposition in your pile. Remember, the more surface area of waste exposed to your compost microorganisms, the faster the decomposition process. Throw in a handful of good garden soil to inoculate your new pile with living organisms. A few earthworms are a nice addition, too. Though not required, many individuals add compost starters and accelerators to help their pile alongthis is fine, just avoid synthetic additives and seek out organic sources with minimal packaging, like those found on our website. The following table is a cheat sheet for your convenience: From the Yard From the Kitchen coffee grounds and filters chemical-free grass clippings dry leaves tea bags (without staples) and leaves Shrub and tree waste veggie and fruit scraps sawdust and wood chips from corn husks untreated wood crushed eggshells straw and hay hair from brushes dead plants and flowers cereal, like oatmeal potting soil bread and flour dead insects leftover pasta, without oil or dairy-based
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sauces rice all-natural fibers, like cotton shredded black and white newspaper and paper towels.
What Not to Put in Your Compost Bin:

Though all organic matter can naturally break down, some materials are not suitable for the home compost pile. Read these carefully, and adhere to this advice in order to have the most healthy and safe composting experience. First and foremost, no human or pet excrement should be added to the bins. Feces can harbor harmful bacteria, and there is no guarantee that the high temperatures of your pile will kill them. The potential health cost is too high, thus directly composting feces should not be attempted. Secondly, stay away from greasy foods, dairy products, meat scraps (including fish) and bones. Not only can their decomposition result in colorful aromas, they can attract rodents. Moreover, why propagate pestilence? Rocks, plastic, metals and Styrofoam are not going to do much for your pile, so keep them out. Ashes from your fireplace are basically worthless --- they are already broken down as much as possible from heat and flames, and therefore have little potential energy to offer the microorganisms in your pile. Besides, ash can drastically alter the pH of the soil. Avoid coal ashes because they contain sulfur and iron that can harm your plants, and charcoal doesnt decay too much, so dont use them either. If your prize tomatoes experienced their worst blight on record, you want to keep their diseased leaves and stems out of the pile, especially if the finished compost will be returning to your vegetable garden. Oak, southern magnolia, and holly trees are too leathery for composting, and eucalyptus leaves can be toxic to other plants, in addition to black walnut trees, poison oak, poison ivy, and sumac. Weeds are trickysome weeds can be composted, but if they have begun to seed, only the hottest compost pile will kill them. Pine needles can actually slow down your compost pile - avoid mixing too many of them into your pile. The following list is a cheat sheet of what not to put in your compost bin, provided for your convenience: Meat and bones Grease, fats, and oils Dairy products Human or pet feces Diseased plants Weeds Citrus peels, eucalyptus leaves and pine needles Treated wood products Grass/tree clippings treated with chemicals Poison Ivy and other toxic plants Walnut shells, walnut leaves Charcoal/ ashes Plastics and metals Chemical products (pesticides, fertilizers) Sanitary pads and tampons Non-organic materials Waxed paper 1 2 3 4 5
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Methods for Composting

Methods for Composting
Composting has come a long way from its ancient roots. Compost still works as the most organic fertilizer, since it contains nearly all the nutrients a living plant needs over a period of years. Today, composting is used for multiple treatments and is made in newer, improved containments. Although some compost the same way they did twenty years ago, the technology and techniques have changed enough to speed up the process and produce better results. Layering is the original method, but since then the exciting world of composting has expanded to greater heights. What are your compost needs? This is the first question you need to answer. If you feel queasy at the thought of worms, then worm composting is probably not the best option for you. On the other hand, if you dont have a yard and plan to compost kitchen waste, vermicomposting, or using worms to compost, is a great way to compost. Composters.com has customer service representatives that will be happy to answer any lingering questions so you can buy a compost unit with confidence. Open compost piles arent that practical in a suburban or urban area. Youre much better off using a compost bin or compost tumbler. Vermicomposting is also an excellent option and requires a worm bin. The methods you use to compost are entirely dependent on you. Its your garden youre taking care ofyou should compost it as you see fit. However, Composters.com has come up with some ideas, tips, and troubleshooting advice in case youre confused.
Tips and Advice

Top dressing: Top dressing refers to compost being spread around soil during the growing season. Perfect for herb and vegetable gardening, compost amends garden soil with nutrients that allow plants to foster healthy growth while keeping plant diseases and insect problems at bay. Poor soil can be augmented with 2-3 inches of compost, whereas one inch of compost is thick enough for spreading on garden beds. Scatter some across the base of your plants, or sprinkle compost over your lawn. You can even top off your household potted plants with small amounts of compost. Side dressing: Side dressing is a good option if youre running low on compost. Intentionally spread compost on certain plants or rows. Work the compost into the soil around the plant, starting about an inch from the stem. When to spread compost: Some recommend spreading compost in late autumn and then covering it with winter mulch like chopped leaves, while others rely on spreading it two weeks before planting time during the spring. Theres not wrong time to distribute compost; the benefits always remain the same. Compost as mulch: Compost can also be used as mulch, which is meant to cover all of the soil around the plants. Mulches protect from soil erosion and help retain water while adding nutrients. Spread about a half inch to inch thick layer of compost on bare soil under a tree and then cover with a 2-3 inch layer of mulch to help give your trees a nutritious meal. Topsoil/Lime: There is no need to add topsoil or lime as extras in your compost. Both can actually do more damage than good by reducing the heat or killing beneficial organisms and losing nitrogen. Composting in the winter: When the temperatures drop, its sometimes hard to get your compost to heat up. Place your compost bin at an angle that will slant towards the sun so that your bin is still receiving heat. If you have some, try stacking hay bales or other insulators to keep your bin warm. Converting kitchen scraps into fertilizer: Take earthworms and introduce them to your compost bin. After the bottom layers of your compost have started to decompose, bring in about five hundred earthwormsthese garbage men of the earth will work through successive layers you add until your bin is full and help break down your pile. Keep layering, keep it moist, and allow it to decompose for 5-6 weeks. If you transfer the worms into another pile or bin, youll be able to produce new compost every
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six weeks or so. Composting leaves: People commonly complain that their leaves will not break down. To aid them in decomposing, you can add extra nitrogen (manure is a good bet) to start heating them up. Another thing you can do is shred your leaves with a leaf muncher, which will turn your leaves into super-rich mulch you can use in your garden.
Troubleshooting
Before you take a violent rake to your problematic compost pile, take a look at our table below, listing some of the most common problems you will run into with composting. Chances are, the problem is an easy fix and you will be holding fistfuls of black compost gold in no time.
Problem Pile smells like sulfur Pile smells like ammonia
Cause Pile is too wet or not oxgenated Too many nitrogen-rich greens
Remedy Turn your pile with an aerator or pitchfork; add dry waste to balance the moisture Add more carbon-rich browns Bury your fresh kitchen scraps under a layer of compost; switch to compost bin to keep animals out Add nitrogen-rich greens; aerate your pile; consider an accelerators Moisten with rain water collected from your rain barrel Add carbon-rich browns
Rats and squirrels and Rodents and flies are flies, oh my! attracted to food odors Slow decomposition process Pile center is too dry Pile is too damp Too many carbon-rich browns or pile is not oxygenated enough Not enough moisture
Too many nitrogen-rich materials/poor drainage Pile is damp only in the Too small or cold weather middle slows decomposition
Make sure pile is at least 3x3, or smaller if its in a bin Avoid thick layers; break up layers Grass and leaves wont Poor aeration or lack of and mix up pile, shred up big pieces decompose moisture of material Pile smells like rancid Not enough oxygen/ too Aerate pile so it can breathe; add dry vinegar or rotten eggs much moisture browns like leaves Pile attracts buzzing Keep flies away by covering kitchen insects around my Normal (but annoying!) scraps with paper or decomposed compost waste from pile Pile too dry/kitchen scraps Keep pile moist and heated with Pile attracts fire ants close to surface good mix of materials
Choosing the Right Composter

Composting is easier than ever, thanks to a variety of makes, models and colors. Choosing the right composter for you should take some thought and evaluation. Each system has its advantages, so its really all about what you need. Purchasing a compost bin or compost tumbler is as much a personal preference choice as it is a functional choice. Some bins are educational or allow the whole family to participate, while others require a bit more maintenance. Ask yourself questions like, How much yard material do I have to compost? or Which systems best fits my lifestyle? There are two types of bins: open-sided and enclosed. Open-sided bins work well in large yards and allow easier access for unloading and loading material; enclosed bins hold heat and moisture better, thus taking less time to decompose. If youre going to compost a lot of kitchen waste, consider a plastic bin that will help resist rodents better. Compost Bins Compost bins, while ranging from simple to complex, usually looks like a slatted or mesh wire pen, although there are square and cone-shaped models out there. Compost bins help enclose your compost and hold heat by keeping the compost close to the center. Take the time to think about your compost bin placementit can save you hassle and regret later. Do not place your compost bin in a heavily shaded, stuffy, or damp area, or
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you create the perfect environment for anaerobic activity and consequent odor problems. Avoid placing the compost bin near wells or slopes that drain to streams or ponds. Compost piles near trees may create future problems; if tree roots grow into the bottom of the pile, it can make turning the compost difficult. From an aesthetic perspective, you may wish to place the bin where it is hidden from the view of your neighbors and street. Your chosen spot should not interfere with regular gardening and should be accessible to you and your family year round. An ideal location is partially sunny so that the pile can reach proper temperatures, and shielded from high winds so it would not dry out. If kept in direct sun or wind, you will need to water the pile more regularly. Suggestions include near the garden or between a garage and house. Composters.com has a great selection of compost bins, but the BioStack Bin is a standout, with three bottomless tiers so you can add to them as your pile growsits also pest resistant and attractive compared to other bins on the market. Compost Tumblers A compost tumbler is specially designed to turn or tumble the maturing compost in an internal chamber for aeration. The constant turning keeps microbes active while maintaining relatively high temperatures. Compost tumblers are much easier on the eye compared to compost piles oozing black gold in the backyard. Tumblers are also much more resistant to pests, since they rest higher out of reach from rodents and pets. The enclosed space of a tumbler provides protection from the elements; in hot weather the compost stays damp longer, while in wet weather, the compost doesnt become sodden. But probably the best benefit about compost tumblers is that they are easy to keep aeratedno pitchfork or aerator necessary. Flip the composter over, and ta-da! Your compost is now mixed, minus the labor. Now your compost is decomposing faster without much hassle like you do with a giant pile. Composters.com also has a wide selection of compost tumblers, and the ComposTwin Dual Tumbler features an unique two-chamber design. This means your pile can cook your batch of compost in one section, and the other can be filled with fresh scraps. The Bio-Orb U-Roll system requires a little more work by rolling the compost in the orb every five to ten days. The rolling helps the compost decompose faster, plus its a great way to work out those arms!
Composting Accessories and other Helpful Hints

In addition to a great selection of compost bins and compost tumblers, Composters.com also features composting supplies and accessories to help you jumpstart that pile. Compost accelerators are handy compost accessory that stimulates microbial activity, hastening the decomposition of organic waste in your pile. A compost aerator simplifies the composting process because its specifically designed to turn and aerate the pile. Theyre a sophisticated, efficient choice for hand-mixed composting. Leaf munchers will turn dead leaves and yard debris into nutritious garden mulch. A kitchen scrap carrier is useful for taking scraps like coffee ground and fruit peels to your compost bin outside without sticky hands or spillage. Lawn sweepers carry up fallen yard debris, and chipper shredders turn tree limbs into beneficial wood chipsall great browns and greens to throw into your compost pile. Rodents are always going to be around, and while few bins are 100% rodent-proof, there are ways you can avoid rodent entry into your humus. Make sure the bottom lip of the compost bin is buried under the soil surface, since rodents usually enter through the bottom. Secondly, keep all lids and doors securely fastened or locked (some thieves, like raccoons, can easily work latches). If you have a known rodent problem, select bins that dont have any large openings between the slats. Moreover, when discarding your food scraps, bury them in the compost pile center so that access to them is difficult. To prevent entry from below, buy a few yards of chicken coop wire with a small mesh diameter and line the bottom of the bin or bury the wire a few inches below the surface. Try to avoid using poisons as pest control. We offer eco-friendly alternatives like humane rodent traps, or you can try predator urine, hot pepper wax, kitty litter or peppermint extract. This question has come up before: are there bear-proof composters? Unfortunately, we are aware of no bear-proof compost bin on the market. Your best bet is to move your compost bin indoors, choose an indoor composter from our wide selection, or use a worm compost bin. 1 2 3 4 5
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Vermiculture
What is Vermicomposting?
Vermicomposting uses worms to convert your organic waste to compost rather than the microbialdependent decomposition process used in backyard composters. Vermicomposting enriches the soil, improves its water retention, and enhances germination and plant growth. The Redworm, also known as the Red Wriggler or Eisenia foetida, is the shining star of vermicomposters, although European Night Crawlers are a fine substitute. When you throw kitchen scraps into a worm bin, what the worms really seek to consume are the nourishing microorganisms decomposing the scraps. These worms excrete worm castings, which is a valuable soil conditioner because it contains eight times as many beneficial microorganisms as the food supply. Worm castings are loaded with nutrients: they contain seven times more phosphorus, five times more nitrogen, and eleven times more potassium than typical soil. It retains moisture in your soil and enhances the growth and yield of your garden. One of the biggest differences that sets worm composting apart is that it can be done indoors, which allows for year-round composting, as well as composting in small places like apartments, classrooms, or homes without large yards. Because worms consume waste so quickly (they eat their weight in bedding and organic waste daily), it is ideal for kitchen scrap disposal, since food would not linger long enough to create an offensive odor. And since the worm compost bin can not be exposed to extreme temperatures, the ideal storage spot is right in your home. Another winning benefit: as worms move through the bedding and compost, they aerate the pile for you, eliminating the need for manual pile turning. If you have kids, give vermicomposting a shot. Like chocolate and peanut butter, kids and worms are a perfect pair. Most children are inexorably drawn to the idea of "pet worms" that they can feed. It is an invaluable educational tool that instills the importance of recycling and the fundamentals of the carbon cycle.
How to Compost with Worms

Redworms are happy in cool, wet conditions. The bedding is where your worms live and eatit should be made of material that is high in carbon and imitates dried leaves, or a worms natural habitat. Place redworms in a bin with a bedding of shredded cardboard or moistened paper that is loose enough to make aerobic decomposition easier and as damp as a well-wrung sponge. Keep them at a temperature between 50-70 degrees. If you live in a hot climate, place the bin away from direct sunlight. Avoid using glossy paper from magazines or waxy cardboard from milk carton as bedding because they can contain toxins. Worms enjoy a carbon to nitrogen ratio of about 30:1, plus water to keep it moist. Use shredded paper for your browns, or carbon-rich material, and food scraps as your greens, the nitrogen-rich material. There are two methods of feeding: top feeding and pocket feeding. Top feeding means the organic materials are place directly on top of the existing layer of bedding. Pocket feeding is when a top layer of bedding is maintained and food is buried beneath. We recommend the pocket feeding method. Feed your worms one to two times a week by burying the scraps a few inches into the bedding, making sure to bury food in different places each time. Depending on how much you feed them, the worms will gradually reproduce and die. Worms can consume about four to six pounds of food scraps in a week. A whole mess of food at once could attract fruit flies, so increase your scraps slowly but steadily and cover the bedding to keep them out. In four to six months, the worms should have converted the bedding and food into castings which need to be harvested to start composting again.
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Vermicomposting bins should have holes on the side to increase aeration so the bin is ventilated and the worms can breathe. Consistently removing the compost, adding holes to the bin or using a continuous-flow bin will help bring in oxygen to your crawling critters. Without enough oxygen, the compost will become anaerobic decay and produce an offensive odor. Furthermore, if you have a non-continuous flow bin, the excess liquid needs to be drained and can be used as plant food; a continuous flow bin doesnt retain the excess liquid and needs extra water to keep the bedding moist. Now comes the exciting partreaping the fruit of your worms voracious appetites! There are two ways of harvesting your castings: Dump and Sort and Side by Side. The Dump and Sort method requires you to pour your compost bin contents onto a plastic sheet or similar, waterproof platform under bright light. Separate the contents into pyramid shaped piles. Your photosensitive worms will make their way to the bottom of the piles, and in 10-15 minutes, you can skim your rich castings from the top of the pyramids. Repeat until only the worms remain, then place them into your bin with fresh bedding to start the vermincomposting process again. The Side by Side method is recommended for the squeamish that prefer not to touch the worms. Begin the process by burying your organic scraps in different spots on one side of the bin over a number of weeks. Your worms will migrate to the side with the food, and you are now free to cull the castings on the other side. When its ready to harvest again, place the food on the opposite side and repeat the process. Once you take the time to understand the factors that create a successfully efficient worm compost bin, you will realize how easy vermicomposting can be! Factors Affecting Rate Description
Use the Redworm or European Night Crawler for your worm compost bin. Some worm compost bin on our site specify which to use. Always refer to manufacturer instructions for specifics over this general site. Worms consume their weight in carbon and nitrogen rich organic scraps every 24 Worm hours. A good way to calculate how many worms to buy is to use a 2:1 ratiotwo pounds of worms for every pound of organic kitchen scraps your household produces daily. Beginners may want to start with two pounds and progress with their skill. Since worms are living creatures, their comfort is of utmost importance for optimal worm bin operation. The ideal temperature for the bin is between Temperature 60-80F, but you have wiggle room of 40-90F before the worms are adversely impacted. It is best to store the bin in a cool, dark place within the home for stability. Do not allow the bin to freeze or overheat. Bedding for your worms is important. Initially, it takes up approximately 2/3 Bedding of your new bin is space and provides half of the worm is carbon-nitrogen (carbon diet. In addition, it offers a dark, moist hiding place for the photosensitive Content) worms. Shredded cardboard, paper, coir bricks, untreated wood shavings, and chopped straw and hay are suitable bedding materials. If worms dry out, they die. For this reason, bedding must be kept moist but never dripping wet, or anaerobic (oxygen-free) conditions can occur and lead to odors and the suffocation of the worms (they can drown). Water Content Since worms themselves produce liquid, it may be necessary to occasionally add dry bedding to the bottom of bins that have become saturated. In addition, make sure your bin has holes on the bottom to allow for adequate drainage. Chop up your organic kitchen scraps and add them to your worm bin composter, along with a grit like soil, cornmeal, or finely crushed egg Food Scraps shells to help worms digest their meal in their gizzard. Feed the worms (Nitrogen about twice a week, between 1.5-2 lbs. of accumulated scraps, adjusting Content) portions to your amount of worms as necessary using the 2:1 ratio describe above. Worms require a constant source of fresh air, breathing through their skin. Make sure your bin has adequate ventilation holes. You will not need to Oxygenation turn your compost to aerate it like backyard compost. Those gluttonous little worms do that for you!
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Lets review the following steps: 1. Choose from a wide selection of worm compost bin at Composters.com. 2. Prepare bedding for your worms, making sure it takes up at least 2/3 of the container space and is moist but not soggy. Check out our Bedding Recipe to help. 3. Add your Redworms or European Night Crawlers to the bedding under direct light. Due to their photosensitivity, the worms will begin to burrow into the dark safety of their bedding. 4. After the worms have been allowed to settle for a day or two, begin feeding them your organic scrap waste twice weekly. 5. When bedding has been almost entirely consumed, harvest the valuable compost. Keep in mind these are general steps. For instructions that relate to your specific worm bin, refer to the manufacturer guidelines.
Bedding Recipe
Redworms just love shredded paper bedding. First, get a pile of used office paper and remove the color inserts, plastic windows, and glossy advertisements. Then carefully run it through a paper shredder, a few pages at a time, so it is not too compressed - avoid using the cross-cutting models that mince the paper into confetti sized particles. Next, moisten the paper ever so slightly - you want the bedding to be evenly moist at all times, but NEVER dripping wet. For optimum results, mix in a tiny bit of processed steer manure from your local garden center (do not use fresh cow spore - it will heat up too much and kill the worms). To go the extra mile for your worm new home, pick up a simple pH test kit and occasionally monitor the acidity levels of the bedding. You want to make sure that the pH does not drop too far or too quickly into the acid range - it could kill the worms. You can balance out the pH with a little pulverized limestone from your local nursery. Scatter a handful or two of soil over the bedding - this will provide grit, which aids digestion. You can also do the same thing with shredded cardboard!
What to put in your worm bin

The best and most convenient thing you can feed your worms is kitchen scraps. All vegetable and fruit peels, pasta leftovers, coffee grounds, tea bags, and breads are good, as well as grass clippings, plant trimmings and leaves. Start feeding your worms slowly, since it will take time for the bacteria to grow. A small combination of gritty materials like bread and vegetables should do the trick. The worms wont be hungry because they will be eating their own bedding; after youve been feeding them for a while, you can gradually start to increase their food intake, but not by too much! The following list is a cheat sheet provided for your convenience: Fruit and veggie scraps Leftover pasta (without oil or sauce) Plain rice Egg cartons Coffee trays Tea bags (without staples) Coffee grinds Cornmeal (for grit) Soil (for grit) Finely crushed egg shell (for grit) Breads Grains and cereals Beans Untreated sawdustGrass clippings Hair clippings Plant trimmings Paper Leaves
What NOT to put in your worm bin:

Worms cannot break down synthetic materials, bones, or heavy proteins and fats that are found in meat scraps. Therefore, just like with a regular compost bin, you cannot feed them meats, fatty foods, weeds, or anything involving chemicals. Dont throw away bottle caps, plastic bags, or foil in your bin, since they wont decompose and make your bin look like a trashcan. And dont add manure like you would with regular compost, since this will heat up the bin and effectively kill your worms. Worms also dislike garlic and onion, as well as very spicy foods. If you notice any bad smells, cut back on the amount of food or cut it into smaller pieces. More leafy vegetables and less citrus fruits can also help
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cut down on any odd stenches. The following list is a cheat sheet provided for your convenience: Garlic Onion Meats and bones Dairy products Oily food Heavily spiced or hot foods Anything with insecticide or chemicals Twigs Metal and foils Plastics Weeds Manure Garden soil
Methods for Vermicomposting

Vermicompost, like we mentioned earlier, is a fantastic soil nutrient. You can distribute the compost over your flower beds or garden by lightly digging it into your soil. Its very potent, so you should typically use half of what you would have used with normal compost. If you use it on potted plants, add a thin layer to the topno more than 25% of the potting soil should be compost. Try a little experimentation to find the best results for your botanic beauties. As long as it is stored in an airtight container, the vermicompost can keep for approximately a year. Once it dries out, it loses a lot of its nutritional value and resists moisture.
Tips and Advice

When you go on vacation: Your worms will be fine for 2-3 weeks, and would not exhibit too much separation anxiety. If your cruise to Jamaica is longer than 3 weeks, you will need to enlist the aid of a friend to worm-sit. Rodents and pests: Since vermicomposting is done primarily indoors, you shouldnt be attracting rodents or pests. However, if you are putting meat or lots of kitchen waste into the worm bin your chances of attracting unwelcome pests increases. Using a sealed bin will help keep out pesky critters. Odor: Like backyard composting, a properly maintained worm compost bin will not stink. If your bin does smell, it indicates anaerobic conditions. Common reasons for the occurrence include overfeeding your worms and bins that are too wet. Make sure the worms have finished all the kitchen scraps before adding more, and gently fluff bedding to aerate. Add more bedding or use a turkey baster to suck up excess moisture. Other reasons could include an excess of greensneutralize the odor by adding carbon-rich browns like paper and dried leaves. Other creatures in my worm bin: Once your worms are thriving, you may notice other creatures rummaging in your bin. Springtails, pill bugs and millipedes are just a few, and they are beneficial, as they help breakdown the materials in the bin.
Worms, Worm Composters and Accessories

Composters.com features a great selection of vermicomposting bins and worm accessories that will help make the process easy and fun! Worm composters are designed to be spaces your worms can live in harmony, happily munching away on your kitchen leftovers. The type of bin you need depends on how much waste you throw away. If you feed a large family every night, chances are you need a larger bin. If you vermicompost from an apartment, you probably dont need a huge bin to do the job. The Expandable Worm Tower, which can hold about 5-8 lbs. of waste, separates food scraps from finished compost using an upward migration system so that when the top worms finish digesting, they will go towards the new food at the top, leaving castings behind. The Advanced BioSafe System, on the other hand, has the capacity to handle 15-20 lbs. of waste per day and works great both indoors and outdoors. Though we carry all sorts of
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worm bins, youll need to figure out which one is perfect for your vermicomposting needs. And if you need troubleshooting or have a question, the dual-sided Rott Wheeler Quick Reference Guide is an outstanding source thats made for beginners so its easy to understand and works well as a teaching aide. Once you have your worm bin, you need worms to put in it! Redworms or Nightcrawlers are the ideal worms for vermiculture. A pound of worms can range from 100-1000 worms, depending on season, harvesting mechanism, temperature, and species; a pound is enough to eat up a half-pound of garbage. How many worms you need depends on how much kitchen waste you produce each day. Add worms by scattering them over the top, as they will work their way down to the center to avoid the light. Worms are hermaphrodites and will breed in your bin. However, worms regulate their population to suit their conditions and many eggs are lost in the compost harvest. You should have no problem with over breeding. Once your bin is set up, your bedding is made, and your worms are safely inside, store your bin someplace within the home where it will be of convenience to you and provide a dark, quiet spot for your worms. They are not fond of bright light, noise, and vibration, and many people find success storing them in a closet, kitchen, or basement. You can keep them outside in most places during the spring, summer and fall seasons. Make sure the place is cool and shaded. However, bring them inside during the winter. Never allow your bin to freeze! 1 2 3 4 5
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Home Links
Compost Tea
Compost Tea
Compost tea is best described as a liquid soil conditioner for your garden and lawn. For the organic gardener, it is just one more way to utilize the compost harvested from your compost bin, compost tumbler or worm compost bin. It can be used either as a spray for leaves or soil, depending on where your plants have problems. Compost tea can also provide a quick boost to ailing house plants or to seedlings and transplants. When youre done with the tea, you can use the dregs as mulch in the garden. Making compost tea is a snap! Simply steep your compost or vermicompost in water to create hearty liquid sustenance for your plants. Grab a large five gallon bucket or similar container and fill it loosely with only your finest batches compost. If you have a poor compost yield, your tea will be similarly lackluster. Add water to cover your compost, and then stir the bucket contents daily for a week. When the tea is ready, simply drain the liquid from the bucket, now awash in the nutrients and minerals it leeched from your compost. Use a strainer or cheesecloth if you plan to spray your tea from bottle to remove clogging residue. Because the tea is so potent, make sure you dilute your liquid loveliness by mixing ten parts water to one part compost tea before applying to plants. If you do not, you risk burning your plants with the tea high nitrogen content. Making vermicompost tea is a similar process. Add two tablespoons of your worm castings to a liter of water and let it sit for one day, shaking occasionally to facilitate mixing. The tea is now ready to be sprinkled on your plants, straight from the bottle. Compost tea and traditional solid compost both accomplish the same goal of nourishing and improving soil conditions. However, you may find one meets your organic gardening goals more than the other. If you are looking for an immediate boost in your plants, compost tea is the way to go. As a liquid, it is immediately absorbed by your plants, and can be applied to the soil, or the roots and leaves of your foliage. However, its liquid form is a double-edge sword, requiring frequent applications to balance how easily the tea is washed away. In addition, just as plants treated with good compost tea derived from a proper compost batch show immediate benefits, a toxic or weak compost tea from a poor compost batch will become instantly apparent in your garden. A tea with too much nitrogen, salts and unwanted microorganisms can burn or impair your gardening efforts. Compost tea is not the most forgiving form of compost application. Solid compost offers more room for error, and does not need frequent application to perform its soil enriching duty. However, it would not be the instant perk some gardeners seek in their flower beds and gardens. Unlike vermicompost, compost tea does not have a long shelf life. The more quickly it is used, the greater its potency. If you must store it, keep it in a shaded area with ventilation.
Pet Waste Management

A pet waste digester system is similar to a composter, except instead of microbial activity leading to decomposition, special digesters with non-toxic enzymes work to break down your pet poop into completely benign residue. This liquid then enters the surrounding soil, cleanly and with no risk to children or pets. This process keeps hazardous waste materials out of our landfills and water treatment facilities. Most systems come with a plastic or metal receptacle you partially bury into your yard, and
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the liquid or powder digester you throw in to break down the waste. Today is systems are compact, aesthetically pleasing, and many sport foot-pedal operation of the receptacle lid, for greater convenience. The receptacles are designed to control odor, complete with a lid. Once the enzymes begin to break down the pet waste, the odor is neutralized. You absolutely cannot put pet waste or human excrement into a backyard compost bin. It is all about safety, safety, safety. For the standard backyard compost bin or vermicomposter set-up, there is no guarantee that the pile will heat up enough from the microbial activity to destroy any harmful pathogens in the waste. Imagine a nick on your hand caused by yard work. Now imagine that hand dipping into contaminated compostnot a pretty picture. Unless your compost has been specifically designed and allocated for fecal management, steer clear and keep your composter feces free! Composters.com does sell quality pet waste composters, and it is a valid, eco-friendly way to deal with pet waste. However, until one is well-versed in standard vermicomposting or pet waste digester systems, we recommend holding off. Pet waste digesters are designed as a low maintenance alternative to trashing your pets waste. If you are a seasoned compost participant looking for a change, than the pet waste composter is for you. Sources: http://www.composters.com (original guide) http://www.compostguide.com/ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Composting http://www.howtocompost.org/info/info_composting.asp http://lancaster.unl.edu/pest/resources/vermicompost107.shtml http://vegweb.com/composting/ 1 2 3 4 5
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Compost Manual: A Complete Guide To Composting

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