Now, weeks later after your floor is 100 percent dry, it's time to seal and fill the floor with Linseed oil. Here in the SouthWest our floors can dry in a matter of a few weeks but in humid climates error on the safe side.
Linseed oil. We prefer raw linseed oil, less petroleum additives then the common boiled linseed oil but the boiled works ifyou are not concerned about petroleum out gassing. Even raw linseed oil has carcinogenic warning labels. Ask for an MSDSsheet. Linseed oil is made from flax seed. Citrus Solvent (thinner) or mineral spirits, again petroleum out gassingWe are still learning how to estimate coverage and quantity so I'm not sure how much material is needed for your size floor.Maybe buy 2 gallons each for starters; you can buy linseed oil in 5-gallon lots.
4 inch paintbrushes, natural bristle is always best but pricey
Electric hot plate or gas camp stove
Large pot or kettle
Approved vapor mask
Safety glasses or goggles
Fan for air circulation/expelling fumes if you feel this is necessary
Sweep or vacuum any loose debris and dust. You might want to do a light mopping or sponging. Give yourself time for themoisture to dry before applying the oil.
Heat the linseed oil to almost boiling (do not boil). We are just trying to heat the oil to aide in soaking, absorbing in. Thismust be done outside with caution, flammable. Another option is to pour the oil into a large deep baking pan, cover with apiece of glass and let it sit out in the sun. Leave an air gap. With either method start with a small batch to get the hang ofheating and applying.Transfer the oil into a suitable container. You can paint the material on or if you are quick, you can pour some onto the floorand swoosh it around with the brush. The only risk here is that you will not get an even distribution of material. Try it. Beconsistent and watch how the floor is absorbing. If more than one person is applying, then you might get varying results butby the time you are done it shouldn't matter. Use up your first small amount then decide how much more (a large batch) toheat for your next go at it. For reference keep track of how much material you use for each coat and offer this info toothers.The floor will soak up this first coat and there should not be any pooling of the oil on the surface. Plan your route of attackso you end up working yourself out the door, window or hallway. You should be able to go back to the start and do a secondfull strength coat right a way.
emember your shoes will be picking up dirt and dust from the outside so take steps tominimize this. There are disposable booties one can buy to cover their shoes.What we are trying to do is seal the floor but think of it more like filling the floor. Filling all the little air voids between thesand and clay particles with oil.The floor will dictate the timing and how much material. Watch how the material soaks in. You might be able to continuewith more heated, thinned coats the same day, unless you are tired or sick from the fumes and not wearing a vapor mask.
The first two coats can be applied full strength. For the third and fourth coat combine 75% oil with 25% thinner, heat andapply. Watch the absorption, watch for pooling or puddling but also give the material some time to soak in; you just don't