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Caliper Upgrade For Tundras 2000-2003


On 09/02/02 Toyota released Technical service bulletin BR004-02 this bulletin was revised last on 04/04/05. This TSB addressed reoccurring front brake vibration on early trucks. This TSB replaced the front calipers with larger unit that hold different brake pads. If a truck was confirmed with this complaint while under the factory 3 year 36,000 miles warranty the dealer could perform this upgrade in an attempt to solve this problem. Because some truck could have had this TSB done at the dealer, the first thing that you must do is identify if this TSB has already been performed. Yet another TSB (BR001-03) illustrates the differences between the old and new calipers. Below is the identifying photo form this TSB.

Note that the original smaller caliper, on the left has a distinct wing that protrudes off the caliper body towards the rotor. The updated larger caliper, shown on the right has no such wing. This identification can often be done by looking through the wheel openings. If it has been confirmed that the brake vibration is coming from the front brakes and the old design calipers are still present, updating to the new design should be considered.

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Saving Time and Money on This Upgrade


Reading through TSB BR004-02 can be intimidating for the novice do-it-yourselfer. In this bulletin, Toyota technicians must replace the disc brake dust shield or backing plate. This is done so there is clearance for the new larger calipers. There is an array of twelve specialty tools listed to do this job. The upright must be removed and the bearing replace as the hub must be removed to replace the dust shield. At a service shop or dealership this additional work can add as much a $400.00 to the repair bill. All this disassembling and additional cost can be eliminated by simply trimming back the dust shield to clear the larger calipers. This not only saves considerable time and money, but also eliminates any mistakes or damage that could happen during an unneeded bearing replacement. Best of all, this makes this upgrade easily done by most do-it-yourselfers. One more way to save on this job is to use remanufactured calipers. New Toyota calipers are listed in the bulletin and are very expensive. Using remanufactured replacement calipers, even though you will likely have to absorb the cost of the core charge can save considerable money. Many times this extra expense can be offset, as the old Tundra calipers are an upgrade for some 4Runners. So, you can sell your old calipers.

Parts and Tools Needed


Rotors or Not One thing you must determine from the start is if you will be replacing the brake rotors. In most cases you are contemplating this upgrade because you have a vibration problem. This means you believe there is some runout or out of parallelism all ready present in your brake rotors. In this case you have a choice to machine the rotors or replace them. If your rotors have been machined before, then the minimum specification needs to be checked. (See spec at the end of this article) Toyota does not recommend machining these rotors on a bench lath and I concur. Toyota specifies to have the rotors machined in place on the vehicle. Of course this is not a DIY friendly procedure, as the truck will need to be taken to a shop that has an On-The-Car Lath to have this done. Machining the rotors in place eliminates problem that can occur when a bench lath is used improperly. Dirty, un-maintained laths and operator sloppiness can cause runout to be machined into the rotor. This is counterproductive to what you are attempting to fix, therefore most people choose to simply replace their rotors with new. This will be your choice. Calipers The whole point of this is to update the calipers. It has already been mentioned that remanufactured calipers can save money, but what calipers should be used? Generally calipers listed for 2005-2006 Tundra are the ones you want. What else you will find listed is calipers in a few different ways. There are three different ways calipers can be sold. Bare Calipers; the most inexpensive, these calipers are bare unit with no additional parts. They do have pistons seals and bleeder screw, but no additional hardware.
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Semi-loaded Calipers; slightly more expensive, these calipers will general come with all the hardware. Pins, anti-rattle clips are usually included but not pad shims. Loaded Calipers; most expensive, come with pads, hardware, pins some may have shims. Should be complete ready to bolt on. This is a general idea of what comes with each type caliper. Depending on the brand this can vary somewhat. Hardware, Pads and Shims This list below is complete to what parts are usually needed. Hardware, pins and spring clips can sometimes be reused. The problem is many times these parts are rusted in place and hard to remove. When they are finally removed they are often damaged. So if you want to be prepared I suggest planning on replacing these. Best bet; get the semi-loaded calipers that have these parts with them. The short brake lines from the hoses to the calipers could be reused, though the shape is different to each caliper. The problem is, many times the line nuts are rusted in place and are damaged when removed (see figure 16). These lines are inexpensive, so again be prepared and have these on hand. Shims are available in the aftermarket and may come with the pads you buy. But, you are much better off with the Toyota factory shims. The quality is better and they are specifically engineered for this application. You can save money on the aftermarket shims but the OEM parts will work the best. Every supplier says they have the best pads but the truth is only Toyota sells pads certified for this application. With this in mine, if you prefer to venture away from OEM I highly suggest you at lest stay with name brand pads. Raybestos, Wagner, Akerbond are all examples of quality name brand pad manufactures. By all means stay way from off name brands and so called racing brands, there will be no guarantee of quality and you could end up undoing all your good work.

The Parts List Here is the list of parts needed to do this job. Depending on the way you buy the calipers will determine what parts will need to purchase. Calipers 2003-2006, right and left needed Pad set Shim set Caliper pins, four; may be reusable Pad spring clips; may be reusable Brake lines to calipers, right and left; maybe reusable Caliper mounting bolts, four needed Toyota #9008010298 Rotors, two; if replacing
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Short list of OEM and some aftermarket Part Numbers: Calipers: Toyota # (New Loaded) 477100C021 & 477299C021; Raybestos # (Reman. Loaded) RC11549 & RC11550; Raybestos # (Reman. Semi-loaded) FRC11549 & FRC11550 Pad set: Toyota # 0446535290; Raybestos # PGD976 Shim set: Toyota #0494535080 Brake lines: Toyota #473150C020 & #473180C020 Caliper mounting bolts: Toyota #9008010298 (x4) Rotors: Toyota # NA; Brembo #0832821; Raybestos #96931

Parts Needed For Upgrade

About Buying Parts Many are not very experienced buying auto parts and this can a problem. The Internet has become the easy way to do this but this can lead to quality problems and delays. Most areas have local auto parts suppliers other then Auto Zones. You will most likely find that the local auto repair shops buy from these stores or a local NAPA. Your best bet is to buy from these places as you can deal directly with them if you have a problem. OEM Toyota part can sometime be sourced at a better price on the Internet, but you run the same risk. If you get a cheaper price from a far away dealer take this price to your local dealer and see if he will work with you. He can always sell to you at retail if he chooses.
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Keep it local and save shipping and frustration. Tools List This job can be done without any specialty tool listed in the TSB, but you will need a good torque wrench in the approximate 30-150 lbft range. Complete Tool List: Jack, or floor jack and two jack stands 19mm Socket or lug wrench 17mm Socket and ratchet 10mm brake line wrench Abrasive cut off saw or a good tin snips Silver felt tip marker Torque Wrench Pliers, hammer, small Vise- Grip and punch may be needed Roloc Sanding disc (01397) or sand paper and or wire wheel for drill Material List Silicone Brake Grease Black Spray Paint Quart of DOT3 brake fluid Penetrating oil, (Example PB Blaster)

How to Perform This Upgrade


Please follow all common sense safety precautions. Jack the truck up in a flat safe work area. Use approved jack stands and block the rear wheels. Use safety goggles. And most of all if you really dont feel comfortable doing this yourself, let a qualified person do this job or at lest get some help from some one that is knowable about this type of work. Brakes are the number one safety features on a vehicle do not take chances. Preparing the calipers Pre assembling the calipers is not a must. Most of this can be done once the caliper is installed. Doing this before hand can save time and insure that the parts you have all fit properly. Many prefer painting the calipers. This is something that can be done before hand. I suggest using paint made just for calipers as these last longer and hold up well to the heat. Keep paint and solvents away from rubber caliper boots as this can cause them to swell. 1. If you chose to paint the calipers do so a day before and let sit over night. Any chips can be touched dup once the job is complete. 2. Even if you are using loaded calipers I highly suggest you remove the pads and lube the calipers as shown in Figure 1 and 2. Be sure to use a Silicon based lubricant as mineral and soup based greases (White Grease) can swell boots and does not last. (See Next Page)
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Fig.1

Fig.2

3. Next you can assemble the shims. Toyota shims are shown; these come with a graphite anti-squeal compound. Lightly coat as shown in figures 3-5. Use this compound sparingly there is very little provided.

Fig.3

Fig.4

Fig.5 6

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4. Coat the pins lightly with silicon grease. This along with the grease in the pin holes shown in figure 2 prevents the pins from seizing in place.

Fig. 6

5. Install the pads with shims, pins and ant-squeal spring as shown in figure 6 above. Take special note of the location of the anti squeal spring and the inside pad with warning sensor. The caliper shown above is the right side; the sensor and spring will always go towards bleeder screw as seen above. The left side parts will locate the same way. When the calipers are installed on the vehicle the anti-squeal springs will be at the top and the warning sensor top inside pad. Your calipers are ready to install.
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Installing The Parts 1. Jack up front of truck and set on jack stands, block the rear wheels. Remove both front wheels. 2. Remove the brake line from the rear of the caliper as shown in Figure 7. A special brake hose clamp can be used to keep the fluid from draining from the system. If this is not available capping the line with the bleeder cap is an alternative. Dont let the fluid drain out. This can cause air to enter the master cylinder and this can be difficult to remove.

Fig. 7

Fig.8

3. Remove the two attaching bolts shown in figure 8. Remove the caliper from the upright. 4. Remove the rotor. If you are reusing the rotors, mark the rotor to a wheel stud on the hub so it can be returned to the same location. The rotor simply slides over the wheels studs and is held in place only by the wheel. If the rotor will not slide off, it is when rusted in place. Use rust penetrating oil around the hub, wheel studs and backside of the rotor. Strike the rotor with a large hammer on the backside in the area the caliper was located. If you are replacing the rotor this is not an issue but if you plan on reusing them place a piece of wood against the rotor before striking. Depending on how seize the rotors are you may end up damaging them and replacement will be necessary. 5. Once the rotor is off inspect the hub. The surface that the rotor sits on must be clean and free of rust. Figure 9 shows a hub with minor rust. This is bad enough that it must be cleaned. The best tool for this is a 3M Roloc (#01397) sanding discs on a drill; if this is not available a wire brush can be used. If this will not cut it, you can sand the rust off by hand.
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Note: Cleaning the hub is so very important because the rust that develops here will jack the rotor away from the hub. Since rust does not grow evenly between each stud, the rotor can no longer sit true to hub. What this mean is even with a perfect new rotor you can have run out caused by the rust. This is what you are trying to prevent, so make sure the hub surface is clean as in figure 10.

Fig. 9

Fi.10

Note: When removing rust from the hubs with a power tool, be sure to just remove the rust and no metal. If you start seeing sparks you are taking off metal. Back off! 6. At this point your hub should be clean and you should be ready to modify the backing plate. Things should look like figure 11.

Fig.11

Fig.12

7. Place the new caliper up against the mounting points on the upright as shown in figure 12. 8. Mark the backing plate with a marker where material must be removed. This will be about - at the outside edge of the backing plate and taper in at the bottom as shown in figure 13.
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Fig. 13

Fig.14

9. Trim out the area with a cut off saw or tin snips. 10. Mount the caliper as shown in figure 14 and check the fit. The backing plate should not touch the caliper and be about a 1/8 away at the top. 11. Remove the caliper and paint the edge of the backing plate to prevent rusting. 12. Install the rotor. If a new one is being installed or if the rotor has been machined, scrub the braking surface with soap and water and then rise well. 13. Coat the hub to rotor mating surface lightly with silicon brake grease as shown in figure 15.

Fig. 15

Fig. 16

14. Remove the old steel brake line from the end of the brake hose. It may be necessary to use small Vise-Grip pliers to hold the steel hose end so the line can be broke loose. Note figure 16. It is not uncommon for the line nuts to become damaged when attempting to remove, this why it is best to replace them instead of trying to reuse them.
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15. Install the caliper assembly over the rotor. Install the two new bolts. Figure 17 show the difference in the old bolt compared to the new one. As you can see it is a little shorter. The old bolts could touch the backside of rotor so they should not be reused.

Fig.17

Fig. 18

16. Torque the caliper attaching bolts to 90 lbft. 17. Install the new steel brake line and torque the line nuts to 11 lbft. (Fig.18)

Fig. 19 11

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Bleeding Brakes 1. Any time new components such as calipers or wheel cylinders are replaced it is a good time flush out the old brake fluid. Begin by removing the master cylinder cap and opening the passenger side bleeder. 2. Fluid will begin draining from the bleeder after a few minutes. Keep an eye on the master cylinder fluid level. DO NOT Let it run dry! 3. When clean fluid begins coming out, close the bleeder and repeat on the driver side. Tip: Lightly tapping the calipers will help dislodge small air bubbles stuck around the caliper pistons. 4. Have a helper now pump up the brake pedal. Four or five pumps should push the pads against the rotors and produce a pedal. 5. Starting with the passenger side, open the bleeder and watch for air exiting the bleeder. Your helper must hold the pedal down until the bleeder is closed. After the bleeder is closed signal you helper to pump the pedal. Only two or three pumps are necessary, then hold. 6. Repeat until no air is seen and you have a clear stream of fluid. Move to the drivers side and repeat. Be sure to watch the fluid level. DO NOT Let it run dry! 7. Top off the fluid level in master cylinder. Take a look at figure 20, the side is marked MAX (Maximum) and MIN (Minimum). In figure 20 this has been highlighted in black, this will not be so apparent on yours. Be sure to fill to the MAX line or your brake light could remain on or flicker.

Fig. 20

Torque The Wheels! Be sure to torque the lug nuts to 83 lbft. The best way to ruin a good brake job is to skip this part. Do Not Use air wrench.
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Breaking In The Brakes You may have heard that you will need to bed in new brake pads. You may have also heard stories of having to do hard braking exercises to seat the pads. Not only is this not true, you can permanently damage the pads or even the rotors. OEM and quality aftermarket pads usually do not require extreme bedding procedures. It is best to just do normal braking and avoid high speed, heavy braking until the rotors show a smooth mirror black finish. Rear Brakes It is highly suggested that you check the condition of the rear brakes. Make sure the shoes are in good condition and not contaminated due to leaking wheel cylinder or axel seals. Toyota self-adjuster relies on the operators use of the park brake to function. Even with frequent use of the park brake you may find that manually adjusting the rear brakes once or twice a year is necessary to maintain a good pedal height. The shoe can be adjuster through the access hole in the backing plate (At top), or by adjusting with the drum off and installing the drum. A .5mm or .020 clearance should be maintained between the drum and shoes. DO NOT over adjust! This can cause the drums to warp and damage to the shoes. Front Brake Specifications Front Brake Pad Thickness Rotor Thickness Rotor Runout

New .453 (11.5mm) Minimum .039 (26.0mm) New .1.102 (28.0mm) Minimum 1.024 (26.0mm) Maximum .0028 (.07mm)

Front Brake Torque Specifications Caliper to Upright 90 lbft Brake Line Union Nuts 11 lbft Wheel Lug Nuts 83 lbft (Do Not Use Air Wrench)
I have prepared these instructions for use by members of the Tundra Solutions forum. I am an ASE certified Master Technician with over 30 years of mechanical experience. I have also spent over 20 years as a brake and suspension service specialist. I currently write installation manual and technical service bulletin, and works as a technical consultant for a major replica car manufacture. All information listed is accurate to the best of my knowledge. I cannot control the results of the shown modification and therefore cannot be held liable for the results in any way. By you doing this modification you solely take full responsibility for the outcome. It is highly recommended that a trained professional do this work. All specifications contained in this paper are taken directly form the 2001 Toyota Tundra factory service manual. Other information comes from Toyota factory Service Bulletins. Part numbers are taken from Toyota factory Service Bulletins, or catalogs of stated manufactures. If you have any comment or questions regarding any information contained in the paper please feel free to contact me through www.tundrasolutions.com I can be Privet Messaged under my screen name MEvang Special thanks to Sadld (Doug) from Tundra Solutions for loaning me his truck for picture. Please do not copy or reprint any information in this paper without written permission from the author. Mike Evangelo 11/07

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