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Cart Era

Cart Era

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Published by: MGLl on Aug 03, 2011
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© INTERWEAVE PRESS LLC
Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Please respect the copyright by not  forwarding or distributing this document 
interweavestitch.com
 
PAGE 1 OF 16
bag 
slouch
You can make this stylish bagwith designer details from avariety of heavyweight fabrics.Sew it in pleather or vinyl foran upscale look.
R O J  C
by
 
CHERYL KUCZEK
 
FALL
2011
WEB PROJECT
FABRIC
3
 ⁄ 
4
yd (69 cm) of 58–60" (147.5–152.5 cm)wide pleather/faux leather/vinyl for bagshell (Main;
shown:
textured reddish brown;narrower fabric may be used, see Notes)
7
 ⁄ 
8
yd (80 cm) of 45" (114.5 cm) wide cottonfabric for lining (Contrast 1;
shown:
multi-floral)
1
 ⁄ 
3
yd (30.5 cm) of 45" (114.5 cm) wide silk fortrim (Contrast 2;
shown:
turquoise satin)
1
 ⁄ 
4
yd (23 cm) of 45" (114.5 cm) wide cottonfabric for pocket linings (Contrast 3;
shown:
pink and orange print)1
3
 ⁄ 
8
yd (1.3 m) of 45" (114.5 cm) wide cottonmuslin
OTHER SUPPLIES
5
 ⁄ 
8
yd (57.5 cm) of 58" (147 cm) wideheadliner (such as Annie Soft and Stable)
1
 ⁄ 
4
yd (23 cm) of double-sided fusible ultra-firm interfacing (such as Fast-2-Fuse)Matching threads for sewing theshell and liningContrasting thread for topstitching(recommended: 12 wt cotton)Two 1" (2.5 cm) (inside diameter) metalrings (see Notes)One 2" (5 cm) (inside diameter) metalring (see Notes)Getta Grip ClipsRotary cutter, rigid acrylic ruler,and self-healing matTeflon, ultra-glide, or glide presserfoot for sewing machineZipper foot for sewing machineSize 90/14 or 100/16 denim or topstitchneedle for sewing machineRoller chalk markerScotch tapePinking shears or rotary cutter pinkingbladePermanent marker to match pleather(optional)Slouch Bag pattern on pages 7–16
FOR EXPLANATIONS OFTERMS + TECHNIQUES USEDCLICK HERE FOR OURSEWING BASICS ONLINE
VINYLPLEATHERFAUX LEATHERVARIATION
 
© INTERWEAVE PRESS LLC
Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Please respect the copyright by not  forwarding or distributing this document 
PAGE 2 OF 16
slouch
bag 
FALL
2011
FINISHED SIZE
12" wide x 8
1
 ⁄ 
2
" high at center x 4"deep (30.5 x 21.5 x 10 cm) closed;12" (30.5 cm) high flat
NOTES
All seam allowances are
1
 ⁄ 
2
" (1.3 cm) unlessotherwise noted.For explanations of terms and techniques,see Sewing Basics at interweavestitch.com/sewingbasics.If you are unable to find pleather/fauxleather/vinyl in a 58–60" (147.5–152.5 cm)width, buy 1 yd (91.5 cm) of 54" (137 cm)wide instead. If you choose this option, lookfor additional and/or alternate instructionsin italics in Steps 1–8 to account for thenarrower-width fabric.Do not press pleather/vinyl/faux leatherfabrics with an iron. Where the pleather isused (alone or combined with cotton or silkfabrics), use only finger pressing to openthe seams.Clip pieces together instead of pinning whenworking with the pleather/faux leather toavoid permanent pin holes.Use a rotary cutter to get straight, squarecuts on pleather/faux leather.To avoid confusion, label each piece as youcut and check off each piece on the list asit is cut.To make cutting easier, draw the patternpieces onto poster board. This gives you amore stable pattern piece to trace around sothe cutting goes more quickly. Use the rollerchalk marker to trace the pattern piecesonto the pleather/faux leather/vinyl. Cutcarefully to avoid jagged edges.If the pleather has a light or white edge, finda matching permanent marker to color theedges. Be careful to color only the pleatheredges to avoid staining the other fabrics.The metal rings used can be found at mosthardware stores or at paradisiodesigns.blogspot.com.Steam and press all cut fabric (exceptpleather/faux leather/vinyl) pieces beforebeginning; do not press with an iron duringor after construction except as directed bythe instructions.All the straps will be sewn using TheParadiso Designs by Cheryl Kuczek TrifoldStrap Method©. For a tutorial on thismethod, visit paradisodesigns.blogspot.com/2011/01/method-monday-tutorial-on-pleathervinyl.html.When using 12 wt thread for topstitching,use a topstitching needle and lengthen thestitch to 3.5–5.0 mm for a more attractiveappearance and to lessen the chance ofcutting through the pleather. It may also benecessary to adjust the needle thread ten-sion; always test stitch settings on a scrapbefore sewing the project.
PREPARE THE PIECES
1
Cut the following pieces as directed.
From Main fabric, cut:
One 6" (15 cm) wide x wof (width of fabric)strip (for strap, strap tabs, and tab)
 If using 54" (137 cm) wide fabric only: cut anadditional 6" x 16" (15 x 40.5 cm strip to beused for strap tabs
One 2" (5 cm) wide x wof (width of fabric)strip (for strap loops and binding)4 Shell Panels (cut 2, cut 2 reverse)1 Bottom
From Contrast 1, cut:
2 Lining Front/Backs2 Lining Sides1 Bottom2 Pockets
From Contrast 2, cut:
—Two 2" x 16" (5 x 40.5 cm) strips for PocketTrim2 Upper Linings2 Upper Lining Sides
From Contrast 3, cut:
—2 Pockets
From muslin (interlining), cut:
4 Shell Panels (cut 2, cut 2 reverse)3 Bottoms—2 Lining Front/Backs2 Lining Sides
From the headliner, cut:
4 Shell Panels (cut 2, cut 2 reverse)1 Bottom
From the ultra-firm fusible interfacing, cut:
1 Bottom
2
Layer a Main fabric Shell Panel, wrong sideup, a corresponding headliner Panel, and acorresponding muslin Panel and clip the lay-ers together along the edges with Getta GripClips. Baste
1
 ⁄ 
4
" (6 mm) from the raw edges(
figure 1
). Repeat the entire step to layer andbaste the remaining Shell Panels, headliner,and muslin.
3
Repeat Step 2 to layer and baste the Mainfabric Bottom to its corresponding headlinerand one muslin piece.
4
Shorten the ultra-firm interfacing piece bycutting off 1
1
 ⁄ 
2
" (3.8 cm) on one long side and oneshort side. Sandwich the interfacing betweenthe two remaining muslin Bottom pieces, leav-ing a
3
 ⁄ 
4
" (2 cm) margin around the interfacing.Fuse the muslin to the interfacing following themanufacturer’s instructions (
figure 2
).
5
Layer the Lining Front/Back and Lin-ing Sides right side up on top of the corre-
figure 1
main fabricshell panelheadlinermuslin
 
muslininterfacingmuslinbottomtrim
½"  
 (    3 . 8  c m )   
interfacingsandwichedbetween
figure 2
1½ "
(3.8 cm)
VINYLPLEATHERFAUX LEATHERVARIATION
 
© INTERWEAVE PRESS LLC
Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Please respect the copyright by not  forwarding or distributing this document 
PAGE 3 OF 16
sponding muslin pieces. Staystitch a scant
1
 ⁄ 
4
"(6 mm) from the bottom edge of each UpperLining and Upper Lining Side piece. Clipthe curves as necessary, clipping to but notthrough the stitches, then finger-press
1
 ⁄ 
4
(6 mm) to the wrong side on the bottom edgeof each piece. Pin the Upper Lining piecesin place along the top of each Lining piece(
figure 3
). Edgestitch the bottom folded edgeof each upper piece through all layers.
ASSEMBLE THE STRAPS + TABS
If using 54" (137 cm) wide Main fabric only:repeat Steps 6 and 7 with the 6" x 16" (15 x 40.5 cm) strip.
6
The 6" (15 cm) wide Main (pleather) stripis sewn in one length and then cut to makethe strap pieces and the tab. Draw a line 2”(5 cm) from one long edge on the wrong sideof the strip.
7
Fold the long edge farthest from theguideline to the wrong side so the raw edgemeets the guideline. Hold the fold in placewith Getta Grip Clips or tape. Using contrast-ing topstitching thread, edgestitch
1
 ⁄ 
16
" (2 mm)from the fold, removing the clips as you cometo them. Fold the remaining long edge to meetthe edgestitching and clip into place. Edge-stitch
1
 ⁄ 
16
" (2 mm) from the fold (
figure 4
). Theside of the strip with the visible raw edge isthe wrong side. With the strip right side up,topstitch
1
 ⁄ 
8
" (3 mm) inside the rows of edge-stitching. Add two more rows of topstitching,each
3
 ⁄ 
8
" (1 cm) inside the previous stitches.
Note:
When sewing multiple lines of topstitch-ing or edgestitching on pleather, always sewin the same direction.
8
Square one end of the strip if necessary.Cut a 5
1
 ⁄ 
2
" (14 cm) length for the tab. Cut two7
1
 ⁄ 
2
" (19 cm) lengths for the strap tabs (if using54" (137 cm) wide Main fabric only: cut the7
1
 ⁄ 
2
" [19 cm] lengths from the prepared 16"[40.5 cm] strip instead). The remainder of thestrip (about 36" [91.5 cm]) will be used for thestrap; leave it as is to allow flexibility when thebag is assembled.
9
Cut 14" (35.5 cm) from the 2" (5 cm) widestrip to make the strap loops. Set the remain-der of the strip aside to be used for the trimat the top of the bag. Draw a guideline on thewrong side of the strip
5
 ⁄ 
8
" (1.5 cm) from onelong edge. Repeat Step 7 to prepare the strip,but eliminate the last two rows of topstitch-ing. Square the strip end, if necessary, and cutfour 3" (7.5 cm) long pieces for the strap loopsthat hold the straps in place.
ASSEMBLE THE SHELL
0
Sew two layered shell panels, right sidestogether, along the shortest side. Finger-press the seam open, pin in place and top-stitch
1
 ⁄ 
8
" (3 mm) from the seam on both sides,holding the seam allowances in place. Repeatwith the other two layered shell panels.
-
Measure 3" (7.5 cm) from the top and bot-tom of each topstitched seam and mark witha strip of tape across the seam. Place a straploop above each upper tape and below eachlower tape. Use a clear gridded ruler alignedwith the seam to make sure the strap loopsare perpendicular to the seam. Tape the straploops in place to hold while stitching, keepingthe tape in the middle of the loop, away fromthe stitching areas. Topstitch each end of theloop
1
 ⁄ 
8
" (3 mm) from the edge, then again
1
 ⁄ 
4
"(6 mm) from the edge (
figure 5
). Begin andend the lines of topstitching with the needle just beyond the folded edge of the strap loopto secure the loop completely and backtack atthe beginning and end of each row of stitches.Remove the tape.
=
Thread one strap tab through a 1" (2.5 cm)ring and fold 1
1
 ⁄ 
2
" (3.8 cm) of the strap tab tothe wrong side. Topstitch
1
 ⁄ 
8
" (3 mm) from thestrap tab end. Sew back and forth at leastthree times, beginning and ending with theneedle just beyond the edges of the strap tab.Sew another row of topstitching
1
 ⁄ 
4
" (6 mm)from the end of the strap tab. Repeat to as-semble the second strap tab and ring.
q
Tuck the end without the ring of one straptab through the lower strap loop on one sideof the bag, right sides up. Match the strap taband shell raw edges with the strap tab cen-tered on the seam and baste
1
 ⁄ 
4
" (6 mm) fromthe raw edges. Repeat to position the secondstrap tab on the other shell side seam.
w
Pin the assembled shell panels right sidestogether and stitch the long seams for thecenter front and back. Press the seams openand topstitch as in Step 10.
e
Mark the center of each side of the Mainfabric bottom with chalk or tape; these marksare the locations for the four topstitchedshell seams. On the bottom edge of the shell,measure and mark 2" (5 cm) to each side ofeach side seam (the shorter seams). Make a
1
 ⁄ 
2
" (1.3 cm) long clip into the seam allowanceat each mark, cutting through all the layers, to
figure 3
liningsidelining front/backupper liningsidemuslinmuslinupper lining
figure 4
 3 "  
 (   . 5  c m )   
 3 "  
 (   . 5  c m )   
figure 5
FALL
2011
slouch
bag 
VINYLPLEATHERFAUX LEATHERVARIATION
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