Kawasaki KZ400/440 MODEL COVERAGE KZ400D.S.A8.C K2440 AB.C,0 INDEX TBA 764 764 765 ‘Chassis Lubrication. Sens Checks and Adjusters Drive Chain... Cluter Throttle Cables (Dual Throttle Cables (Single) Front Drum Brake Front Disk Brake (18 Front Disk Brake 1978.01). Rear Brake... Headlight Adjustment ‘Steering Stem Bearings Fuel System... Recommended Lubricants. Periodic Maintenance intervals... 767 TUNE-UP 767 ‘Gam Chain Adjustment (2400), oer ‘Valve Adjustment (1874-76).. Valve Adjustment (1877-0n) Contact Breaker Points... f Ignition Timing (1874-80), : Ignition Timing (1981-Ony... z Carburetors (1974-76). Carburetors (1977-On). ‘Tune-Up Specifications. ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION... Engine Removal and Installation Cylinder Head. F Gylinder and Piston Crankcase Cover Components Right Crankcase Gover... “Timing Advance Mechanism Clutch and Primary Drive ‘Shift Mechanism, ¥ Left Crankcase Cover. (Clutch Release Mechanism... Countershaft Sprocket Alternator and Startar Assembly Lower End and Transmission. Splitting the Crankcase. Transmission ier Shift Drum. Kick-Starter .. Balancer.. Crankshaft. Grankcase Assembiy. Engine and Transmission Specifications General Torque Spectfications i... Engine Torque Specifications .. LUBRICATION SYSTEM... FUEL SYSTEM. Gas Tank... Garburetors (1874-76) Carburetors (1977-On).... Carburetor Specifications... ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS. sn TBS. ignition System (1974-80) 785 Ignition System (1981-On). 185 ‘Charging System... Starter Motor... Switches. CHASSIS... Front Wheel... Rear Wheel. Sprocket Assembly Disc Brake Service. Front Forks.. Steering Storm Assembly, ‘Swing Arm... Ghassis Speciiications .. Chassis Torque Specitical General Torque Specifications. Disc Brake Torque Specifications... 763Kawasaki KZ 400/440 MAINTENANCE NOTE: Common maintenance procedsires ‘are explained in detail in “General Infor ation,” LUBRICATION ‘Checking Oil Level L. To get an accurate oil evel reading, the engine must be warm and she machine ‘ust be parked on the centerstand on a evel surface. 2. Early mocls have a dipstick fitted to the ol filter eap on top of the erankease. The cap must be fully serewed in to get the read= ing. Maintain the oil fevel between the upper ‘and lowerlevel merks. 3: Other models Have a sight glass oa the side of the crankcase. Oil level should be ‘maintained between the upper and lower evel marks inscribed on the erankease beside the sass Oittovel sight glace (B) and level lines (A) Changing oil 1. ‘The oil change interval is 1,800 miles, SAE 10W-40, 10W-50, or 20W250 service rating “SD” or "SE" is recommended, 2. Change oll when the engine sat oper- ating temperature. The machine should be parked on the center stand and on a level Surface to ensure fll drainage the ll 3. Remove the filler cap. Remove the ran plug from the bottom ofthe crankcase fadallow the il todrain. 4. Clean off the plug (it is magnetic to trap metal particles). Check the condition of the O-ring. Refit, tightening the plug to 445-18 MIs, on 1974-77 models and 22 ft Ibs. on newer machines, 5. If the filter is to be changed, refer to the following section, 6. Add the correct grade and quantity of oil, If the filter has been changed, add 3.0 13.2 gt If the filter has not been changed, a4 2.6 1/284. 764 General Specifications ENGINE ‘Displicesent (c=) Bore x Stake ‘Conpreston ren, Latntesion ‘Govbartn Tetitins Startog RANSMISSION Type Nor speeds chk (Gear ratios £21) oat ah on Brim sedneton (<1) unl eduction (;1) Overall drive 9 (21) sts Dry wht (Ibe) Wheelbseo (in) vera Tength (i) Quel width (in) tad clensanee (0) = cfectic and Kick Roe 389 oaxoe 90:1 t-schotd s punan; et Sump yin tein Rela ot selocty CVE 46 teeny and cx wet, ultedive 2751 ios au Drm, teinclendiog shae Deus, singl-lading shoe a 7. Allow the engine toile fore few min- utes, then check the oil level and top up if necessary, OilFilter 1, A carteidge-type oil Gilter is fitted to the bottom of the crankeases. ‘The filter should be changed at every other oil changeor at intervals of about 3,600 miles. 2. Drain the oils described above, Uns- crew and remove the ol iter 3. Install the new filter element ensuring that the O-rings are in good condition and properly fitted. Tighten the filter to [1-14.51 Ts. Drain Pig Ou Falter (Oi iter and din plog O-vaus 4. Add 3.0 1/3.2 qls of oil tothe engine, then check cil level as described above, FRONT FORKS Checking oil 1. Front fork oll Ievel should be checked about every 3,600 miles. 2, Support the front wheel off the ground, 3. Remove the filler cap from the top of exch fork lea. Ghecing Fark ail yet 4, On 1978 and later models, remove the {fork prings from eaca leg. 5. Inserta suitable cod intothe fork log 10 check level which is measured from the top of the fork tube, Add oil, if necessary, to bring the jevel up tospecification. Oil levels are: 1974-76 snes 350m0n/ 13.8, 1977 B,C. va 41 Fmm/16.4 in, 1978, 1982-00 43Sme/17.1 in, 1979'81 B,C: 435mm/17.1 i, 1979-0n A.D. 475mmn/18,7 in, Changing Oi! 1, Fork oll should be changed about every 6,200 miles. 2, SAE SW-20 oil is recommended. 3. Remove the drain belt fram the bot- tom of one slider. Apply the front brake and push forward on the handlebars with the ma- chine ffits stand to pump out theo, Repeat ‘with the other fork leg. 4, Alter fiting the drain bolts, and with the machine oa the center stand and the front ‘wheel supported off the ground, remove the filler eaps from the top of each fork leg and ‘add the correct prade and quantity of al, 5. Check the condition of the filler cap ‘O-rings, then refit und tighten them to 18-22 lbs,Kawasaki KZ 400/440 6. When changing fork oil, add about 13066 (4.5 02,) to each Fork le, CHASSIS LUBRICATION 1, The swing arm is fitted with a grease nipple and should be lubricated with a high- quality chassis grease about every 1,800 miles. Apply grease until some appears at cither end of theswing.arm, 2. Atthesame intervals lightly oil brake lever fittings and carburetor linkage. Lue bricate controls und cables, 3. Lubrication on the wheel bearings, Swing arm grease fitting brake cams, speedometer gear housing, and stecring stem bearings is required every 2 years or about 12,000 miles. Use a high- ‘quality bearing prease for these operations Refer to™Chassis” for procedures, ‘SERVICE CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS: Drive Chain The chain should have 20-25mm (374-1 in) of total up and dowa movement, This is measured in the middle of the lower chain run and at the tightest point of the chain, if'such a tight spot exis, 2. When checking chain slack, the mas € shouldbe parked on the center stand, ch and the chain must be clean and well: lubricated. H ee Couple Siéwaiit Lonering the coupling leove iat 3. Ifadjustmentis necessary, remove the safety clipand loosen the brake anchor nut on the brake plate. Loosen the axle nut afer removing the cotter pin. 4,- Loosen the coupling sleeve nut. ‘5. Loosen the adjuster bolt or adjuster nut locknuts. Tura the adjuster bolts or nuts in or out until the proper chain slack is at tained, Be sure that the index noteh on the adjusters align with the same swing arm reference mark on both sides. Chain Aden Bott Adjusting the chain 6. Tighten the lockauts,_the coupling sleeve nut, and the axle nut. Recheck chain slack. I'eorrect, fully tighten the exle nut to 95-116 f lbs. Tighten the brake anchor nut to 20-22 ft lbs. The use of the new cotter pin is recommended. 7. Check rear brake and brake fight switch adjustments, 8, Periodically (1,800 miles) the chain should be checked for wear. Refer to "Chas- Drive Belt With the motorcycle on the ceaterstand, the drive belt should give a deflection of 0.5 in. (13 mm) when 10 Ib. weight is applied to the middle ofthe bottom belt run. 2. Adjustmentis done in thesame way as with chain drives, by moving the rear wheel 3. Before the axle nuts lightened follow- ing a belt adjustment, spin the wheel and apply the rear brake hard to center the drum, Then tighten theaxle nut, CAUTION: Drie belts must be replaced When the nylon on the bell teeth is worn through at any point or if proper adjust- ‘ment cannot be obtained, Clutch 1. Using the adjuster at the handlebar, maintain clutch cable free-play so that when the elutch lever is pulled, there isa gap of 2-3 mm (0.08-0.12 jn.) between the lever and the lever bracket before the cluch begins todisen- esee If clutch operation is not satisfactory in spite of the above adjustment, or ifnew plates have been fitted, proceed as follows 2. Slide back the dust cover from the cable adjuster located about halfway along the cable, Screw the adjuster in to pul at such slack in the cable as possible, 3. Loosen the locknut et the handlebar cable adjuster and turn the adjuster so that there is a gap of S-6mm (0.02-0.24 in) between the adjuster and the lock, 4, Remove the clutch adjusting caver. Loosen the locknut and back the adjusting serew out 3-4 turns 5. Turn the strew in until resistance is felt (Gn 1974-77 models, tuen the serew out 1/2 turn and tighten the locknut, ‘On newer models, turn the screw ia 1/4 turn and tighten the locknut. 6, Take up all of the cable slack with the main cable adjuster. Refit the adjuster dust 7. Use the handlebar adjusterto give the ‘correct amount of clutch cable Free-play as in Step I. Proper clutch cable fee-play Throttle Cables (Dual) 1. Loosen the locknuts for the throttle cable adjusting auts at the twist-grip, and screw both adjusting nuts in to yield as much ‘cable free-play as possible. 2. Tuen theadjusting aut for thedeccler- ator cable out three turns. If this takes up all theplayat the twist-grip, loosen the decelera toradjuster locknut (at the carburetors), and um the adjuster to yield a small amount of free-play, then tighten the locknul. 3, Turn the accelerator cable adjusting ‘UL at the Cwist-rip out until twist-grip play Js almost gone, then tighten the locknut, 4. Turn the decelerator adjusting nut in the exthuretor 765 Deceleratorcable adjusterKawasaki KZ 400/440 until the desired amount of wvist-grip free- play is obtained, which should generally be bout 10-15" of grip rotation. 'S. Check the tightness of all locknuts, Check throtile operation before siding the motoreyele Throttle Cable (Single) Later models havea single throttle cable in place of the “tpull-pull” twin cable system. ‘Adjust the cable to give 10-15" of grip rota- tion before the butterfly valves start to open, Front Drum Brake 1. Use the lower cable adjusting mut to maintain the proper adjustment. When the brake is fully applied, there should be 55-65mm (2.2-2.6 in.) between the brake lever and the twist-erip. 2, Make minor adjustmentsusing the ad- Juster atthe handlebar, 3. Check brake wear by means of the wear indicators fitted to the brake plate. The indicators must stay within the “Usable Range” when the brake is Fully applied, or linings must be replaced, 4. When the brake is fully applied, the angle formed by the cable and the main brake leverat the brake plate rmust be within 80-90", Ifthe angle exceeds this amount, brakeeffes- tiveness will be reduced, Further, the main and secondary brakeleversshould be parallel ‘This adjustment can be made-with chethread: ed connecting rod, but is usually not neces sary unless the brake platehas been disassem- bled, or new shoes have been fitted, Refer to “Chassis” for this procedure. ‘Ap anile tz excors of 80-S4F will vuln rodnced thake electives Front Disc Brake (1974-77) L, Check pad wear. When cither pad is worn dowa to the stepped portion, replace bothasaset, 2, Check fluid level, A level tine i ins- cribed on the inside of the master cylinder reservoir. The fluid level may drop very slightly as the pads wear. Before adding Mid, 766 Die brake lover adjuster referto the “Chassis” section which provides proper procedures for disc brake work. The brake fluid should be changed each year or every 6,200 miles, whichever comes rst. Refer to “Chassis for procedures. 4. Check brake lever play. The tip of the lever should mot move more thar § min (0.10 in.) before the brake is applied, [adjustment is necessary, an adjusting bolt is fitted to the undersideof the lever bracket. Bend down the tab on the lockwasher, Joosen the locknut ‘while bolding the adjusting bolt steady, then turn the bolt very slightly so that lever travel is corrected. 4. Tighten the locknut to 13-16.5 ft lbs Bend down the lackwasher tab, Front Disc Brake (1978 Later) 1. Check pad wear. When either pad is worn down to the stepped partion or to the natch, replace bath asa set 2. Check fluid level, A evel sight plassis provided on the master cylinder reservoir Maintain level at the seribed line, Fluid level may dropslightly as pads wear. Beforeadding fluid, refer to the "Chassis" section which provides proper procedures for disc brake work “The brake fluid should be changed every year or ever miles, whichever comes first. Refer to “Chassis” for procedures. Rear Brake 1. The brake pedal is adjustable for posts tion. It should be set so that the knurled sarfuce of the pedal is 20-30mm (0.8-1,2 1.) below the top of the footpes rubber 2. If adjustment is necessary, back off the brake adjusting nut, Loosen the locknut on the pedal height adjustment bolt, and turn the bolt so that pedal height is correct, Tight- en the locknut, Adjust the rear brake. 3. The brake is correctly adjusted if the pedal is free to move 20-30mm (03-1.2 in.) before the linings contact the drum. Adjust- ‘Brake pedal fee-plsy smentis made with an adjusting nut on theend of the brake cod, 4, When the brake is fully applied, the ‘wear indicator must be within the “Usable Range" or the lining will have to be replaced. Further, the angle formed by the brake lever land rod when the brake is applied should be about 80-00". If the angle excceds this amount, braking effectiveness will be feduced. It is possible to remove the lever from the brake cam and reposition itso that the proper angle is not excceded when the brake is applied. 5. Aller adjusting the brake, check the ‘operation of the brake and the adjustment of the brake light switch Brake Light Switch 1. The front brake light switch for dise brakes is not adjustable. The front drum brake light switeli does not need routine ad- Justient 2. The rear brake light switeh is fitted to fa slotted bracket and secured by « locknut, The brake light should go on after about 15mm (0.6 in) of pedal travel, or shortly ‘before the linings contact the deur. Make the adjustment by loosening the locknut and moving the switeh up or down as necessary. Moving thes witch up will allow the ight to go ‘onsooner and vice versa. ‘CAUTION: Do not turn the switch body Hiself during adjustment or the electrical connections may be damaged. Headlight Adjustment 1. Set the machine about 25 feet away, from and perpendicular toa wall, preferably. ‘of a color which reflects light well, ‘The machine should be off the stand, and \with rider putting his weight on the machine as inoperation. 2, Switch on the high beam. The head- light high beam should be parallel to the ground and should hit the wall directly in front ofthe machine. 3. Vertical adjustment is made by loo- sening the to headlight shell mounting bolts, slightly and pivoting the shell up or down, 4. Lateral adjustment isacoomplished by ‘means of the screw on the right-side of the headlight, 1. The bearing adjustment should be checked abaut every 3,600 miles, Refer to hhassis” for inspection and adjustment procedures. FUEL SYSTEM 1. Fuel system maintenance involvesKawasaki KZ 400/440 cleaning the petcock filter, cleaning or replac- ing the air leaner, and cleaning the carbute- This should be done about every 1,800 miles. 2. Shutoff the fuel, and place a funnel or ‘a channel-shaped piece of cardboard or heavy ppaper beneath one of the carbs, Remove the float bowl drain plug and allow the fuel to drain into a suitable container. Repeat with the other carb, Refit the drain phugs. Check Tor leaks before operating the machine. ‘Atmore frequent intervals, theearburetors should be removed, disassembled, and cleaned. Refer to “Fuel System™ for rocedlures, 3. Be sre thal the fuel peteock is “OI.” Unscrew and remove the sodiment cup. Reach into the petcock body and pull out the O-ring and filter sereen strainer. Clean in solvent. Ifthe screen is punctured, replace it. 4, Place a contginer bencath the petcock and urn it (o the “Reserve” position which will serve to remove any water which may have accumulated in the botiom of the gas tank. 5. Check the condition of the O-ring, and replace it if damaged. Install the strainer, O-ring, and sediment cup, and tighten seeuiely, Cheek for leaks before operation Air Cleaner Service REMOVAL 1. On 1974-76 models, the element is reached by removing the left side cover, removing the housing sidecover screw and taking out the elemeat, 2. Onlater models, open the seat, remove the tool Kit and tray and take out the (dry type) element, or open the seat, removetheair cleaner housing mounting bolts and take out the housing (wet type). SERVICE 1. Two types of air cleaner element can tbe found on these motorcycles. Service procedures will vary for each, 2. Clean dry typeclements by washing in 4 nomily solvent. Dry by applying com: pressed air from the inside. CAUTION: Do not use solvents with a dangerously fow fashpoini, or those which may leave and oily residue, like kerosene 1. Clean wet type elements by first removing it from the frame. Clean it by soak- {ng in safe, high flashpoint solvent. Squeeze dry. Soak the clement ia SAE 30 oil and squeeze out as much of the oll as possible. CAUTION: Handle the sponge element carefully. Donot wring itout, asthe mater- ial may tear 4. Check the condition of the element and replace it iF tora or punctured 5. The maximum service life of the clement is about 6,000 miles or 5 cleanings, whichever comes rst. After this, a new clement should be fitted. RECOMMENDED LUBRICANTS. Engine ‘SAE 1007-4, sorvcorating "SD" or ‘SAE 10W-50, arvcorating "SD" or SAE 200.80, ervcerating “6D” oF Fors ‘SAE BW-20 ControtCabies Graphite besotubeicant NOTE: Common tune-up procedures are explained in detail in “General Information.” IMPORTANT: Jn ail _ relevant ‘Procedures, not that the normal direction Of rotation of this engine’s crankshaft is counterclockwise when viewed from the right-side CAM CHAIN ADJUSTMENT 1. The cam chain adjuster is located ‘between the cylinders at the front of the en- sine, 2. Remove the breaker point cover from the right-side of the engine. Remove the cam. chain tensioner eap and O-ring 3. Remove the spark plugs. 4. Turn the engine over using «17 mm wrench on the crankshaft ue at the points ‘compartment, Turn the crankshaft counter- clockwise while observing the tensioner push- Molybdenum disulphide base lubricant ‘Tats, Speosometee Cabios ghtauty grease ‘Whos! Bearings, Stosing Stam deasings Waterprocmelum-weight bering grease ‘reese iting ‘Weterbr0ol, medium-weight enateis grease Astin tho can chain rod which is in the center of the pushrod uide ‘S. Continue turning the engine over until the pushrod reaches the innermost point, then stop. NOTE: Hold the crankshaft in place. Do ot turn the engine backward. (6. Theend of the pushrod should be fush INSTALLATION 1. Installation isthe reverse of removal Install the element so that the clement holes mateh the air cleaner ducts, Periodic Maintenance Intervalso Daly rake aolusrnant Engine tle! hana Uipnsand etetyequiprseot Bator slectrotto oval ‘Spokes for ushiness Tirepeessur eal) Every 160 Mls Tobteata drive chain very 1800 Mile ‘Stang ona roaso-oving arm UiSsentacontrle and eables Check chin wear ‘Adjeal carburatore ‘Chock polnts sn iantion ming Clean siefitor pice ot it hocking steering hens bearings Adotvaives Ghost bre vane Every 6200 Mies "Replace ait cleaner dament ‘Chango fork at Flsshand rene brake ld Every 12.000 mites er 2 Years ‘Repack whest bearings © Biased upon normal ueage ater braskiniscorn- ple ‘vith the pushrod guide if adjustment is cor- rect. If adjustment is necessary. loosen the large lockaut on the tensioner, and turn the guide until the guide and pushrod are flush. CAUTION: Ifthe pushrod protrudes even 4 small bit from the guide, the adjustment 1s (00 tight and damage may result 7. Tightert the locknut. Refit the ten- sioner O-ring and cap, Replace the point ‘cover and spark plugs, VALVE ADJUSTMENT (1974-76) NOTE: Vaives must bo adjusted when the engine is co¥d, [Remove the contact breaker point from the right-side of the engine 2. Remove the spark plugs. 3. Remove the cylinder head cover caps from each side of the head, Remove the four valve clearance adjuster plugs. 4. Clearance for both intake and exhaust valves is 0.004-0,006 in./0.10-0.1 5mm. 5S. Using a 17mm wrench on the crank: 767Kawasaki KZ 400/440 er me ae Timing Mark Checking valve adjustment shaft nut atthe points compartment, turn the ‘engine over counterclockwise until the intake valve for the right cylinder opens and begins toclose, 6, Continue turning the engine over ‘thesame direction while observing the timing marks through the hole in the breaker plate. About 1/4 of tum after the intake valve closes, the “T” mark will appear, Align the " mark with thestationary timing mark,as illustrated. 7. The right-side piston has now been po- sitionted at top dead center (TDC) on its com pression stroke. Both valves for the right cylinder should be closed 8. Check the valveclearance by inserting the proper-sized fecler gauge between the valve stemand therocker arm, ‘Tura the rocker arm shafts as shown to facrease or decieate Cettance 9. adjustment is necessary, loosen the rocker arm shaft lockout, and turn the shaft carefully in either direction to increase or decrease the clearance as necessary. Refer 10 the illustration. Do not turn the shaft more, than 180°. The punch markon the shaft must continue to face inward toward the "+" and eee To increase valve clearance, turn the shaft toward the" to decrease it, turn it toward the *— 10, Hold the shaft in position, while tight- 768 ‘ening the locknut to 18-22 f lbs. After tight: ening, recheck clearance. IL. Repeat the procedure for the other right cylinder valve. 12, Turn the crankshaft CCW 360" (one {ull turn) until the “T" mark again aligns ‘The left piston is now at TDC oa its compres sion stroke and the left cylinder valves ean now be adjusted, VALVE ADJUSTMENT (1977 AND LATER) NOTE: Valves must be adjusted when the engine is cotd, 1, Remove the contact breaker point or pickup coil cover fram the tight side of the engine. 2, Remove the spark plugs. 3, Remove the four valve adjuster caps. 4. Clearance for the intake and the ex- hnaust valves is the same, Clearances are: 1977 .0.005-0.006 in./0.13-0.1 5mm, 1978-On......0,007-0.009 in./0,17-0.22mm 5, Using @ 17mm wrench oa the erank- shaft out, tura the engine over counterclock- wise until the intake valve for the right cylinder opens and begins toclose. 6. Continue turning, the engine over in the same direction while observing the timing marks through the hole in the breaker plate ‘About 1/4 turn after the intake valve closes, the “1” mark will appear. Align the “T” mark with thestationary timing mark, 7. The right-side piston has now been po- sitioned at TDC on the compression stroke. Both valves for the right piston should now be adjusted. 8. Chieck the valve clearance by inserting a fecler gauge Blade of the right size between the valve and adjuster. It should bea slip fit Ir adjustment is required, loosen the locknut oa the adjuster and turn the adjuster until there is a slight drag on the blade as it is pulled through. Tighten the locknut (11 ft. Ibs.) ‘while holding the adjuster in place, 9. Repeal the procedure for the other valve of the sight side cylinder. 10, Turn the engine 360° CCW until the ‘“T” mark again aligns with the timing mark tnd check the left-side valves, CONTACT BREAKER POINTS Location 1. The points are located beneath a cover in the right-side of the engine, 2. Asingle set of points is used and they are opened by a breaker cam fitted to the ‘crankshaft Replacement 1 Replacement ofthe points is easily ac- complished by loosening the wire terminal ‘ut, and disconnecting the primary wire and condenser wire from the points. terminal Remove the points base serew and lift them off. Remove the condenser securing screw. 2, Clean the contact surfaces of new points with 2 non-ily solvent prior to fitting. 3. When connecting tke primary wire and condenser lead, be sure that che insulat- ing washers for the points terminal are all present and correctly installed. If there is ‘continuity between the primary wire and the Loosen the base rerew gent move points with a screwiiver atthe pry point to adist gap engine (ground) when the poiats.are open, the engine will not run. Gapping 4. Clean the paints if neccesary before sepping 2. Remove the spark plugs. Using a 17 sm wiench on the crankshaft nui, tra the Engine counterclockwise until the points are ‘open to their maximum gap. Check with Feeler gauge, Proper point gep is 0.3-0.4mmn (@012-0.016 in). 3. I adjustment is necessary, loosen the point base screw just enough vo allow the Points to be moved. Use a small slothead Screwalriver at the pry point provided (o ad- just the gap, Tighten the serew and recheck 4. Clean off the points to remove any foreign matter which may have been deposit. ed by the fesler gauge Lubrication 1. A felt padis positioned to bear against ‘the breaker cam and distribute lubricant, 2. Periodically, apply a bit of high temperature grease to the left-sideof the pad, Do not overlubricate as this risks Fouling the points. IGNITION TIMING (1974-80) Dynamic Timing 1. Clean and gap the breaker points. 2. Hook up the strobe light according to the manufacturer's instructions. The timing rmarks are visible through the inspection hole in the breaker plate Full advance taniog much 3. Start theengine, Atidle,the"F? mark on the timing advance mechanism must align with the stationary timing mari. At 3,000 rpm and above, the twin full-advance marks must align with the stationary timing mark 44, Tadjustment is necessary, loosea theKawasaki KZ 400/440 three breaker point base plate screws, and rotate the plate in either direction, as neces- sary, so that the marks align. 5, Once timing has been set for the Full ‘advance marks or for the “F” mark, the other shoud align as well. only oneofthemean be brought into alignment, suspect trouble with ‘the automatic timing advance mechanism. 6, When alignment is achieved, tighten the base plate screws and recheck. Static Timing 1. Clean and gap the points before check ing the timing. 2, Hook up the test light or ‘obrmeter-onelead to ground, theotberto the points wire terminal. Besure that the ignition {s off and the engine kill button is turned toan “Off” position, 3. Using a 17mm wreneh on the erank- shaft nut, turn the engine over in the normal (counterclockwise) direction, until the “P” mark on the timing advance mechanism (vise ble through the inspection hole in the breaker base plate) comes into view. 4. Continue turning the engine over, As the “F" mark aligns with the stationary ing mark, the test light or meter should react, indicating that the points have begun to open. Stulonary advance tang marke F” 5. It the points do not begin to open as these marks align, loosen the three breaker base plate screws after aligning the “F" mark and rotate the base plate in the direction ‘necessary so that the points just begin toopen. when the marks align IGNITION TIMING (1981-AND LATER) Tramsstorized ignitions used on late ‘mediels do not require adjustment. CARBURETORS (1974-78) Adjusting Float Level Generally, Moat level need not be adjusted unless fuel delivery problems have been not- ed, orif the machine has covered considerable mileage. 1. Drain the float bowls by removing the drain plugs. 2, Fit float level gauge No, $7001-208 10 the float bow. Tur on the fuel petcock, 3. The fuel level should be 24mm (0.08.0.16 in.) below the carburetor body- to-loat bowl mating surface. ‘4, adjustment is necessary, remove the carburetors, take off the Most bowls, and remove the float assemblies, ‘5, Bend the float tang to.orrect the level. ‘Bena the tang to ads el level Bending the tang toward the carburetor body ower the float level, Bending it down, or away from the carburetor body, will raise the float level, Idle Speed and Mixture NOTE: These adjustments must be made when the engine is at operating temperature. 1. Trengineidling isvery poor, the follow ing procedure may be necessary: remove the carburetors from the manifolds. Tuea the pul- ley as fur as possible and check that both butterfly valves are parallel tothe carburetor bores. If they are not, loosen the pulley stop screw locknut and iura the top serew so thet ‘Use the pulley stop serew sf butterfly valves aro not parallel tothe bores when opened fully Adjusting the pilot screw: this is achieved. Tighten the lacknut. Install tite carburetors and check cable free-play, This procedure will not ordinarily be neces- id most routine tune-upseanstart with 2. With the engineat operating tempera- ture, buck out the throttle stop seres! nil the engine idles at the lowest rpm at which it can run smoothly. 3. Turn each pilot serew in of out until the highest idle speed is reached. 4. Adjust the idle with the thratde stop serew to 1,100-1,300pm. 5. Turn cach pilot screw in and ovt after noting their positions, If tke idle speed rises ‘when thisis done, repeat Steps 2 6. After the correct setting for each pilot screw has been determined, turn each one ia V/AGtun. 7. Rev the engine « few times and ensure that idle speed does not change, Check for proper cable free-play und operation, Throttle Synchronization 1. Throttle synchronization x made easy wth vacuurn gauges 37001-127 andadapiers S7001-401. Balance adjuster $7001-167 is also used. If the gauges are not available, refer toSteps Tand following, below. 2. Fit the vacuum gauges to the carbures ton. 3. With the engine at operating tempera- tureand idling at 1,100-1.300 rpm, adjust the ‘gauges 0 that needle uteri fes than 3 em Hg, Standard vacuum should be 22-27 em Hag. Ifthe difference between the two gauges’ readings is more than 1 cm Hg, stop the engine and remove the fuel tank. the babauce adjuster 4. Use the balance adjuster on the balance adjuster serew so that vacuum is ‘equalized. The motoreycle will run at this Point on tte gas left in the carburetors 5S. After equalizing vacuum, reinstall the tank, adjust both pilot screws by equal mounts so thst vacuum is 22-27 em He, then ‘umn each in 1/16 turn, 6. Remove the gauges and adpaters and use the throttle stop screw toadjust idle speed 101,100-1,300 rpm, 7. If Vacuum gauges are not available, ‘check synclionization by placings hand over the.end ofeach muffler. Cheok that thereis 0 difference in pressure oF noise between the cylinders. 8. If there is, remove the gas tank, and adjust the balance adjuster screw to equalize the pressure. The engine will ran on the fuel Jeftin the earburetors. After equalizing pres- sure, install the tank and adjust the idle speed {0 1,100-1,300 rpm. 769Kawasaki KZ 400/440 ‘CARBURETORS (1977 AND LATER) Adjusting Float Level ‘The procedure is the 1974-16 carburetors, abo, ing changes: 1. Float level gauge part number is 7001-1017. 2. Fuel level is 3-Smm (0.12-0.20 in.) below the carburetor body-to-flout bow! mat- ing surface. Idle Speed and Mixture 1. Adjust idle speed when the engineis at eas deseribed for With the follow= VALVE CLEARANCE Intake (mm/in.) Exhaust (mm/in.) operating temperature, 2, Ile speed should be 1,100-1,300 rpm and is adjusted with the knob between the carburetors. 3, The pilot sorewsare not adjustable, To tamper with them may violateclean airordin- 4. After idle speed is adjusted, rev: the enginea few times tocheck the engine returns to set value. Turn the handlebars from side to side. If idle speed changes, check throttle cable free-play, Throttle Synchronization Butterfly. valves are synchronized by TUNE-UP SPECIFICATIONS 1974-76 1977 means of the balance adjusting screw ‘etween the two carburetors. The procedures is the sume as described for 1974-76 carbure~ tors above, Fast Idle Adjustment 1. Adjust dlespeed with the knob until it is 1,100-1,300 rpm. 2, Check that there is 46mm (0,16-0.24 in.) clearance between the pin on the idling link cam and the fast idle cam when the choke lever is fully pushed dav. 3. Openor lose the gap on the idlelink to meet the specification. 1978-On 15/0.004-0.006 0.13-0.15/0,005-0.006 0.17-0.22/0.007-0.009 15/0.004-0.006 _0.13-0.15/0.005-0.006 0.17-0.22/0.007-0.009 IGNITION SYSTEM Point gap (mm/in.) 0.3-0.4/0.012-0.016 0.3-0.4/0.012-0.016 0.3-0.4/0.012-0.016@ Spark plugs (NGK/ND) Standard B-8ES/W24ES B-8ES/W24ES B-7ES/W22ES-U Hot B-7ES/W22ES B-7ES/W22ES B-6ES/W20EP Cold B-9ES/W27E B-9ES/W27E B-8ES/W24ES _Spark plug gap (mm/in.) 0.7-0.8/0.028-0,032 0.7-0.8/0,028-0.032 0.7-0,8/0,028-0,032 CARBURETORS Idle speed (rpm) 1,100-1,300 1,100-1,300 1,100-1,300 Max. vacuum variation (cm Hg) 1.0 1.0 Vacuum at idle (cm Hg) 22-27 22-27 Pilot screw setting 1/16 turnfrommaxrpm — — = COMPRESSION (psi) ‘Standard 142-156 142-156 142-156 Service limit 107 107 107 Max. variation between 14 14 14 cylinders © Except transistorized ignition NOTE: For engine component inspection techniques and procedures, refer (0 "En- gine Rebuilding” under the “General In- Formation” section ENGINE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION NOTE: Some models may have shims at the engine/Irame mounting points. Note their locations when removing and be sure they are properly repositioned when the engine is installed, 1, Drain the il and filter, 2. Remove the gas tank, Disconnect the plug leads and loosen the spark plugs, 3. Disconnect the blue primary (breaker points) wire from the connector. Diseonnest the tach cable. 4. Remove the left and right-side covers and disconnect the two clectrical connectors, Disconnect the electric starter eable (if fit- ted) from the starter solenoid. 770 5. Remove the carburetors (refer to “Fuel System’ if nccessary for procedues), 6, Remave the exhaust system aiid pas- seager footpegs. Remove the left rider's fc peg and side stand spring. Remove the gear- shiftlever. 7. Remove the coustershaft sprocket (left rear crankease) cover. Remove the mas- leclink and disengage the chain from the ‘countershaft sprocket NE AND TRANSMISSION 43. Rear spoer moving bot 4. or lower maunting bat Engine mounting bole: 8. Disconnect the rear brake ight. Uns- ‘crew the switch adjusting nut ualil the por- tion beneath the mounting bracket can be squeezed, then push the switch out of the bracket,Kawasaki KZ 400/440 9, Disconnect the tube fromthe breather, Remove the bracket bolts from the frame and breather cover (top engine mounting bolls), Unbolt and remove the breather cover. 10, Remote the engine mounting bats, Raise the engine slightly as the bolts are removed to avoid thread damage. Note that the rear bolts ae fitted with spacers and/or shims. Remove theleftfrontengine mounting bracket, Move the clutch cable and sprocket ‘cover out of the way. 1, Liftup the engine and remove it from the left-side of the frame, bringing the top out first, 12, Installation is the reverse of removal Note the following points: sae i ce ok ‘engine mounting bracket. Tighten the upper toltand then the loner to 16-19 fils 13. Lift the engine slighily to install the mounting bolis. Note the rear bolts have spacers fitted between the frame and the left- side ofthe engine, The lower spacer may have shims added. After tightening the bolt to the proper torque (25-31 ftlbs), check iosecif the Spacer istight, Ifnot, add more shims to take upthe clearance, 14, Install mounting bolt nuts with the springside out, and tighten to 25-31 felbs. 15, Use a gasket sesler to hold the breather caver O-ring in place if necessary Tighten cover bolts to 13-16.5 FtIbs 16. When installing the sprocket cove the oil guide seal guideshould beused toavoid damage tothe seal. Route wires in frontof the upper mounting bolt spacer, 17. Use new exhaust pipe cylinder head gaskets. Install the shift lever so that aligned with the alternator cover lower right- hand screw. 18, When instlling the carburetors, note that thecableshould runalong theright-hand side of the Frame tube. 19, Adjust chain, brake light switch, etc. CYLINDER HEAD ‘The cylinder head ean be removed with the ‘engine in the frame. On 1974-76 models, several special tools are needed for removal and installation. The head assembly consists ofthe breather cover, evlinder head cover, head, camshaft, and valve trai, REMOVAL 1. Remove the gas tank. Remove the ig- coil and bracket, Remove the breather cover bracket (three bolts), Disconnect. the breather tube. Unbolt, and. remove the breather cover. Tap with a plastic mallet to frecitif necessary. Disconnect he tach cable, Remove the head cover nuts or bolts, and remove the ‘ylinder head cover. Note the O-rings, 3. Remove the cam chain tensioner as follows KZ400: Remove the cam chain tensioner cup and O-ring; remove the tensioner screws and pull out the tensioner assembly, come plete. KZ440: Loosen the tensioner lock bolt Remove the tensioner mounting bolts and take off the tensioner body and O-ring CAUTION: Once the mounting bots on the KZ440 are loosened, they must be removed completely, Special installation o7sFsr Remaving the eyindor bead bolts procedures are required. Refer to the “In- stallation” section following. Failureto fol low the procedures may result in engine damage, 4, Remove the breaker point (or pickup coil) cover. Using a 17mm wrench on the crankshaft nut, turn the engine over, and un- Dolt the camsbalt sprocket as the bolts become accesible. Disengage the cam chain from the sprocket. On 1977 and later models, remove the camshaft beat S, Loop a length of wire or something similar through the cam chain and secureitto a fixed point to prevent the hain from falling into’ the cylinder when the camshaft is removed. Remoye the cam sprocket and cam. 6, Remove the exhaust system, Remove the Itt and right-side covers, and remove the carburetors. Refer to “Fuel System’ for procedures ifnecessary. 7, Remove the spark plugs, 8. Remove the externaloi so equipped. 9. Remove the cylinder head bolts, loo- scning bolts gradually and ina cross pattern, Remove the cylinder head, Remove the head asket 1eon models Disassembly 1. To remove the rocker arms and shafts ‘01 1974-76 mols, remove the cap from each Side of the cylinder ead cover. Remove the ‘nut from each rocker arm shaft, and remove the plate 2. Pll out the rocker arm shafts with a pliers, protecting the shafts with a rag. Mark the shafts and rocker armsso that they installed in their orginal location. Extlelag a roche aa shat 3, On 1977 and later models, the rocker arm shafts can be removed by simply uns- crewing them from the head cover. Mark them for postion to ensure correct installa- 4, Remove the valves by compressing the springs and taking out the keepers, Remove the oil seals from the guides after removing the retaining clip, Inspection 1 Refer to the specification charts.at the end of this section for standard and service limits: 2. If removal of the valve guides is required, heat the head to 250-300" F (120-150° C), and drive out the guide. To install, make sure that an O-ring is fitted to the head side of the guide, and drive i heating the head as before. 3. Ream the guideafter installation. Assembly The use of new O-rings and gaskets is recommended, 1. Lightly lubricate ‘cach rocker arm shuft O-ring and push the shafis into place, securing their rocker arms in the process. On 1974-76 models, note thatthe larger contact pad of the rocker arms ride on the camshaft. ‘Turn each shaft so that the punch mark faces the center of the head cover, Install, but do not tighten, the shaft nut 2, Check that all O-rings are in place in the head cover, Secure them with gasket sealer if necessary, Note that the large mat- 771Kawasaki KZ 400/440 Be sure that the thats are fited with the punch ‘marks Balog Uke ceutee ofthe head cover ing surface O-ring is fitted with a tab which ‘must ft intoa notch in the cover. 3. Assemble the valves, lubricating valve with s small amount of high melting point grease before inserting it into its guide. 4. When installing the valve springs, note that both inner and outer springs are progres- ly wound and are installed with the close culls toward the cylinder head. Installation 1. Fita new head gasket, Be-sure thatthe Ocringson cither side are in place. 2. Install the head, bringing the cam chain up through the passage in the heads it ‘slowered on the studs. 3. Install the cylinder head holding plates (57001-165), and tighten thestud nuts 4, Place the eim sprocket on the ca shaft. The notched end of the camshaft located onthe rightsideoftheengine,and the side of the cam sprocket with arrows ako faces the right-side of the engine. 5. Lubricate the cam bearings and lobes, and slip the cam through the eam chain and fit the chain onto the sprocket, 6. Turn the engine over so that the “T" mack aligns with the timing mark. Turn the engine counterclockwise exacily 90° past this point until che timing advance mechanism aligns with the timing mark as illustrated, 7, Disengage the cam’ chain from the sprocket, and tura the camshaft ual the notch on the rightend faces dreetly upward, 8. On carly models the cam sprocket has to arrows, One is marked with a “T,” the oer is unmarked. Tura the sprocket so that the unmarked arrow points toward the feant of the engine and is parallel with the head cover mating sueface. Fit the eam chain onto the sprocket. On later models, the ain 772 Cylinder hond maskot ond O-rings ‘The cam sinstalled ith the notch on thy vght side of the engine and the specchet arares lee to the Hight as well, Align the ting alvancer as shown to ellect valve timing sprocket has only one enark and this must be positioned towards the front of the engine with the eam notch 180° away. 9, Position the sprocket up against the cam bolt holes. The bolt holes will not be aligned, 10, Hold the cam steady, and slowly turn the crankshaft until the bolt holes align. Fit the cam sprocket bolts which should be coat- ed witha thread locking eompotind and tight- ‘ened to 10.0-11.5 felbs, The unmarked aos aligns with the head sasface nthe timing advancer edge aligned with the Ting mask "Tho “T" matk on the sprocket aliges withthe head surface when the tning advance "mark aligns ‘vil the ton mack LL, Check that valve timing. is correct. ‘Tura the crankshaft so that the “T" mark on the timing advance mechanism is aligned With the stationary timing mark. AL this tion, the cam sprocket arrow marked ‘must be pointing toward the front of the en- gine and be parallel to the head cover mating surface. [itis aot, valve timings not correct, ‘and must be done agsin. 12, Remove the cylinder head holding plates. Lubricate the components, Install the cam bearing caps, if fitted, with the areows facing the Front of the engine. Tighten the bolts in across pattern 109 ft bs. 13, Turn the crankshaft so that the “1 mark on the timing advancs mechanism is aligned with the timing mark. 14, Install the eylinder head cover, which has been peepared for installation in Steps 1-2. Fit the eipht cover nuts, tightening tem order shown gradually until the proper ‘que of 18-22 ft lbs. is reached, 15, Install the four remaining head belts and tighten them graclually and in the order shown to the proper torque; § mm bolts —18-22 ft Ibs; 6 mm bolts—8.9,5 fIbs. 16, Lubricate the tachometer gear with Ibjgh melting-point grease, insert it, and e2n- rect the tach cable. 17, KZ400: refit the tensioner assembly, Assembly order is: pushtod, spring, gasket, holder, pushrod guide, and nut, KZ440; Ten: sion installation iscritical, Proceed as Follows: a. Back out the lock bolt a few turns. b. Put the flat washerandlongspring on the pushrod end with the flats. ©. Compress the spring and insert the pushrod into the tensioner body until the Mlattened end engages the recess at the bot- tomof the tensioner body.Kawasaki KZ 400/440 Holding the pushrod in this position, ‘urn in the lock bolt through the body into the rod to keep the rod in pace, CAUTION: Do not use any bolt longer than I4mm, as i¢ may cause demage. Never loosen the lock bolt before installing {the tensioner, fe, Put the balls and retainer and small spring on the pushrod, Fi the O-ring. f, Place the assembled tensioner on the engine. Fat and secure the bolts, B: Loosen the lock bolt several turns nil it releases the pushrod. Tighten the lock bolt to ft Ibs. 18, Install the breather cover, holding the ‘O-ring in pluce with gasket sealer if neces- sary. Tighten the breather belts geadually and ina cross pattern untila torque of 13-16.5 fuibsis reached, 19. The remainder of the procedure is the reverseof removal, Adjust the valves and eam ‘chain after assembly is complete, CYLINDER AND PISTON Removal 1, Remove theeylinder head components and cam cliain tensioner as outlined in the preceding section 2. Pull up the eylinders, taking care that the pistons do not hit the erankeases when they come out ofthe bores. 3, Remove the cylinder base gasket, not- ing the positions of th oil passage O-rings, 4. Wrap a clean wrag around the base of the piston, and use a needlenose pliers totake ‘out the wrist pin ciel 5. Push out the wrist pin. I'thepinresists removal, the piston crown may be heated slightly, Alternately, use special factory tools 57001-910 and $7001-913, Mark each piston for position so that it ‘ean be reinstalled in its own bore, Inspection 1. Refer tothespecifications chart at the O.Smm and 1.0mm, Measure piston diameter Smm (0.2 in.) from skirt bottom, Measure bore 10mm (0.4 ia.) and 6mm (24 in.) from top; 25mm (1 in.) from bot- tom; b. If boring is necessary, standard piston-cylinder clearance is 0,034-0.054 ‘mm/0.001-0.002 in. . In addition to fitted end-gap and side ‘clearance, used rings should be checked for free end-gap to check for loss of tension: d. When fitting new parts, ery 10 ‘marked piston pin to a piston with an * mark on the crown, and an unmarked pin with an unmarked piston. Use pistons marked with “2 on the crown in eylinders marked in the same way, and fit ‘unnumbered pistons into the unnumbered oylinders, 1, Topand bottom compression rings are ‘ot interchangeable and must be installed as illustrated, and with the manufacturer's mark near the end-gap facing upward, Cylinder head and beud cover bole tightening sequences Piston and pin mas Piston and cylinder maak 2, The arrow on the piston crown must face theexhaust port, 3. Use new wrist pin snap-rings in all 4. On models with a one-piece oil ring, arrange the end gaps so that the top compres- sian and the ol ring gaps face the exhaust side and the second compression ring faces the intake side of theengine. ‘On models with a three-picee oil ring, at- rangement should be thesame except that the oil ring rails must be positioned about 30° on either side of the oil expander, whose gap slnould face the exhaust side of the engine, 5. Fita new cylinder base gasket, ensut- ing that the O-rings are in place, Fit new O-rings to the cylinders, f necessary, 6, Lightly lubricate the rings and piston skirts with motor oil. Use piston base 5700-340 to hold the pistons in place, and ing. compressor 5701-921 and adapter A/ST001-924 to squeeze the rings so that the ‘eylinders may be installed. 7, Pull the cam chain through the cylinders as they are lowered down on the ‘Install sags with the matk facing upward > BG smo ina 81 Ring |_ ES | ote thet tie two compression rings ate not in @ sence Compression ring profiien (1977-On) studs, Secure the chain so that it will not fall into the engine. sh, Us fest ofthe procedures the revere ‘of removal. CRANKCASE COVER COMPONENTS Right Crankcase Cover Components ‘The right crankcase cover houses the 773Kawasaki KZ 400/440 centrifugal tin a clutch, primary drive components, external shift mecha- nism, and the oll pump, Right Crankcase Cover REMOVAL 1. Drain the oil. Remove the contact breaker cover. Seribe lines on the breaker plate relative to the secu serew positions so that ignition tim if ean be approximated when the plate is refitted. Remove the three serews and Ue plate. ng the 17 min erankshs ich, break loose the or bole, Remove it, and the timing advance mechanism, 3, Remove the right footpeg. Scribe a across the kick-starier lever ancl its shaft to matk its position, then remove the boltand pull ofthe kick-starter lever. 4, Placing a pan beneath the cover to catch any oil residue, remove the 12 ‘cover screws and pull offthe cover, using. a plastic mallet to break it laase if neces- Removing the crankshal bolt INSTALLATION 1. Use anew condition of the kickestarter and crank in the cover, and replace ssury. Grease the lips of the seals before installation. 2. When installing the cover, use kick- starter oil seal guide 5701-265 to pre- vent damage to this seal during install tion. Tighten the cover screws evenly and securely, 3. When fitting the timing advance mechanism, note that its notch fits with the pin on the end of tho crankshaft. Tighten the bolt to 165-195 ft Ibs. 4. The remainder of the procedure: is the reverse of temoval, Reset the ignition timing, Timing Advance Mechanism REMOVAL 1. Remove the contact breaker cover. Scribe lines on the breaker plate relative to the securing screw positions, so that ig- nition timing can be approximated when the plate &s refitted, Remove the three screws and the plate. 2, Holding the 17 mm crunkshaft nut with a wrench, break loose the crankshaft bolt. Remove it, and the timing advance mechanism, 774 INSPECTION 1, Check for free movement of the mechanism and for proper spring ten- sion. When tured against its stop and re leased, the breaker cam must retum ly to the original position, IL it does not, lubricate the mecha: with penetrating oil. If no improve- noted, replace the springs. , ible the unit, pull off the breaker cam. Remove the two "G” rings, and weights, Remove the trust washers, Lubricate the shaft and inside of the cum with some high melting point grease 4, Whon assembling, ul the breaker cam with the nthe mark on ‘Whea asiembling the Uentng advatice mechani, align the mack with the atch INSTALLATION 1. Installation is the reverse of re- moval, Align the notch in the mechanism with the pin on the eninkshatt, 2. Tighten the crankshaft bolt to 16.5-19.5 ft Ibs. Clutch and Primary Drive REMOVAL Before removing the components, check primary chain wear, = ‘The primary chain is allowed a max- isourn of 20 mm (0.8 in) of total up and er OEE EM EL) pied in he middle of the upper chain run, If movement exceeds this umount, replace the chain. Checking primary chain wear If replacement is necessary, use “Tsu. bakimoto Hy-Vo" No. S/SP-S/8W 74-link chain only. 1, Remove the right crankease cover as outlined in the preceding procedure. 2. Remove the clutch spring bolts, washers, and springs, Remove the pres- sure plate, Remove the pusher. Tilt the motoreyele to the right so that the steel ball comes out of the cluteh shaft, Protuding Side Removing the oil pump deive year 3. Remove the clutch hub circlip and the shims behind it, Remove the clutch plates and the clutch hub, Note the thrust washer behind the hub, 4. Remove the circlip from the crank- shaft (primary) gear. Pull off the clutch housing, chain, and crankshaft gear together. 3. Remove the oil pump drive gear from the back of the clutch housing, if desired, by removing the circlip. Note the locating pin INSPECTION 1, Check the clistch and gea ined in "Engine Rebuilding” and by re- forring to the specifications at the end of this sect 2, Check chain guide thickness, Stane dard is 7.5 mm (0.3 in,). Serviceable limit is 3.5 mm (0.14 in). INSTALLATION 1. Fit the oil pump drive gear onto the clutch housing, noting that the protrud- ing side of the xear faces the housing. 3. Assemble the crankshaft gear tind eluteh housing. Note that the ling side of the crankshaft gear faces out. Fit the assembly, rotating the oil pump gear by hand if necessary so that it meshes with the drive gear, Install the crankshaft gear eitclip. Install ho crankshaft primary near withthe protrad | ing ide over 3. Fit the thick thrust washer ta the clutch assembly, followed by th stall the shims and the elutch hub eicelip, There should be no axial play of the clutch hub on its shaft. Ifthere is, remove the circlip, and add more shims until the play is taken uy 4. Install the clutch plates in the fol- lowing order: friction plate, steel ring, steel plate, and alternating in this san- ner, fitting’ steel ring last, install the stee! ball ancl the pusher. . Install the pressure plate, aligning the ‘marks on the plate and the clutch hub, Install the springs, washers, andKawasaki KZ 400/440 Allzn the asks on the pressure plate and cfotch nb spring bolts, tightening them evenly and in a cross pattern, 7, The remainder of the procedure is the reverse of removal. Oil Pump ‘REMOVAL 1, Remove the right crankcase cover and the clutch and primary drive as- sembly Reler to the preceding. proce- 2. Remave the four oil pump screws and pull off the pump. Note the O-rings in the erankease. INSPECTION Refer to “Lubrication System.” INSTALLATION 1. Installatio moval. Lubricate the pump with motor oil before installation, Shift Mechanism ‘The shift mechanism in the right eran! case cover consists of the shift shaft, re- tum spring, and shift arm or pawl, REMOVAL 1, Remove the right erankease and the hutch and primary drive assembly. Refer to the preceding procedure: 2, Remove the left rider footneg. Re- move the side stand and spring. Remove the gearshift lever. fs the reverse of re- Removing the shift mechiatm sopir 3, Remove the left rear crankcase (engine sprocket) cover. 4. Remove the shift mechanism stop- per. Disengage the fingers of the shifter om the shit dum and pull ot the INSTALLATION 1. Be sure that the shifter return spring is properly installed with the spring arms on either side of the return. spring r 2, Use oil seal guide 57001-264 to pro. tect the shift shaft oil seals in the crank- case and the engine sprocket cover when installing the shift shalt, Engage the paw] with the shift drum pins. 3. Use thread locking compound on the shift mechanism stopper screws. Left Crankcase Cover * Components The left crankcase covers house the engine (countershaft) sprocket, the clutch, release mechanism, the alternator, and ¢ electric starter sprocket and chain (on 1D" models). Left Crankcase Covers REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION L. Remove the left rider's peg. Re- move the sidestand and spring, Remove the shift lever. 2. Remove the four serews and take off the sprocket cover. 3, To remove the alternator cover, first femove the sprocket cover (Steps 1 and 4. Remove the right-side frame cover and disconnect the altemator field coil leads froma the connector. 5. Remove the wiring guide just above tho countershaft sprocket. 6, Remove the starter motor cover and asket. Remove the eight alternator cover Screws ancl take off the cover. Disconnect the oil pressure and neutral indicator leads, 7. Installation is the reverse of re- moval. Use shift shaft oil seal guide 5701-264 when instulling the coun- tershaft sprocket cover, Be sure that the lectrieal wiring is correctly routed. Glutch Release Mechanism REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION L. The elutch release mechanism is in- porated in the countershaft sprocket . Remove the sprocket cover. Re- move the cotter pin from the clutch cable fitting, and disengage the cable from the fitting, and from the cover, ‘Duscooneeting the clutch eablo from the fting 3, Remove the chuin guide screws. 4, Remove the two clutch release outer gear screws and separate the two Bears. 5, Clean the release mechanism in sol- vent, dry, and lubricate thoroughly: with rease, 6, Assemble the release mechanistn, fitting the worm gears together so that, us they begi h, the raised point on the outer is with the punch mark on the i ner Kear. ‘The raised point and panch make sboold align as the gears begin to mesh (Clute release mechaniam bnsalltion 7. Use thread locking compound on the outer grr scree, Intl the mecha 8, The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Countershatt Sprocket REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION 1, Remove the countershaft sprocket cover. 2, If special engine sprocket holder 56019-040 is available, disconnect the chain, bend down the tab on the sprocket nut lockwasher, and remove the nut, 3. TFit is not availuble, place the trans- mission in ear, bend down the tab on the sprockot washer, and remove the sprocket nut, applying the rear brake i necessury to hold the sprocket. 4. To install, tighten the sprocket nut to 87-105 it ibs and bend down the washer tub. IF the chain was discon- nected, be sure to install the masterlink springelip with the closed end facing the direction of chain rotation. Alternator and Starter Assembly REMOVAL 1. Remove both left-side covers as out- lined in the preceding procedures. eroving the tater motor belly 775Kawasaki KZ 400/440 2. To remove the starter motor, first remove the cover and disconnect the lead at the motor. 3. Remove the two 10 mm bolts on the right-side of the starter motor body. 4. Tap lightly on the starter motor body with a plastic mallet to move it to the right and disenzaye the shaft from the gear, CAUTION; Do not tap the motor shaft itself. ‘Tapping out the starter motor 5. To remove the altemator rotor, hold the rotor steady with the special tool (al- temately, engive the transmission and apply the rear brake to lock the erank- shaft, and remove the rotor bolt by tum- ing it in a clockwise direction), CAUTION: The rotor bolt is a LE} HAND thread, 6, Remove the rotor and starter elutehs assembly using special puller 5701-254 while holding the rotor in place, Note th thrust washer behind the rotor. 7. Pull off the. starter chain and sprocket. 8. The field coil and alternator arm ture windings are in the cover. To move them (not necessary for testing), remove the starter mator chain guide and sprocket guide. Remove the three amma- ture allen bolts and remove the armatuze Remove the three field coil allen bolts on the outer side of the cover and remove the field coil. INSPECTION. 1, For altemator and starter motor tests, refer to "Electrical System, 2. Disassembly of the starter clutch is not necessary unless it has been malfune- tioning. To check operation of the starter clutch, ft the sprocket and rotor assembly to the crankshaft, When the rotor is turned, by hand, in a counterclockwise direction, the sprocket should tum as well. If the rotor is tuned in the clock- wise’ direction, the sprocket should not tum. ‘Starter clutch components 776 To disassemble the starter clutch, re= serews, and take out tho springs, spring caps, and. rotors, Chek for wear of the rollers. 3. Check the starter motor chain by measuring its length. Extend the chain by stretching it with a force of about 10 Ibs. A twenty-link length of chain (stat- dard) measures 188.5 min (6.1 in.); ser view limit is 157.8 sam (6.2 in.) INSTALLATION 1. Fit the. starter eluteh to the rator, using thread locking compound on the bolts and tightening to 24-27 ft Ibs. 2. Install the field coil, use. thread locking compound on the bolts and tighten to 5.1-5,8 ft Ibs. Use the same procedure and torque on the annature bolts, Fit all wiring into their grommets and praperly fit the grommets in the case, aretrnccnnaie ea A Installing the sprocket guide 3. Use thread locking compound when installing the sprocket guide und starter motor chain guide, The sprocket guide bends outward, ‘ul a little oil on the starter mator O-ring, und install the starter motor. In- stall the sprockets and chain, 5. Put some high melting point grease on the rotor thrust washer and put it be- hind the rotor, installing the rotor assem- bly on the crankshaft. Install the rotor bolt (left-hand thread), and tighten it to 47-51 ft Ibs while holding the rotor in plac 6. The remainder of the procedure is the reverse of removal. Lower End and Transmission Engine removal is required for these components: crankshaft, transmission, shift drum assembly, balancer assemb and kick-starter. Removal of the top end components is required for crunkshaft service, but the top end may be left in place far service and inspection of the kick-starter, trans- thission, or balancer. Splitting the Crankease 1. Drain the oil and remove the filter. Remove the engine from the frame. If crankshaft service is tequited, remove the top end components, Refer to the pre- cecling procedures, 2. Remove the crankcase covers and all of the components therein: clutch and primary drive, external shift mechanism, countershaft sprocket, starter motor, and altemator assembly. 3. Remove the six upper crankease half bolts and the carburetor over- flow/breather tube guide, 4. Turn the engine upside down and remove the fourteen lower crankcase half holts. Remove the lower case hall, tap- ping carefully with a plastic mallet to fre it if necessary, ‘The lower case half will come away with the kick-starter shaft. The other components will remain im the upper case half, Transmission 1. Check the gears in place. Check near backlash. Standard is 0.06-0.23 mm (0.0024-0,0092 in.), while the serviceable limit is 0.3 mm (0,012 in.), To remove the transmission, lift the shafts and gears together out of the 3. Disassembly. of the transmission shafts must be done carefully. Lay out each component as it is removed for ease of ussembly. 4. For the mainshaft, take out the clutch pushrod and oil seal. Remove the shaft needle bearing outer race. Remove the citclip and take off the needle bear- ing and any shims fitted, 5. Remove the 2d and 5th gears, the per bushing and splined washer. Re- ove the cirelip followed by 3rd wear. 6. Remave the circlip, splined washers, and sth gear, 7. Remove the bushing and shal bearing together using the special puller, To disassemble the countershaft, remove the needle bearing otter race, ‘lip, needle bearing, and shim(s), 9, Remove the Ist and 4th gears, ined washer, 3rd gear, splined washer, 10, Remove circlip, splined washer, and 2d gear, Remove the oil seal, collar, and O-ring, Remove the shaft bull bearing with the special tool. 11. Cheek gear-shaft clearances, 12. Assembly is the reverse of disas- sembly. Refer to the exploded view for part locations. New circlips should be used, and special tool 5701-380 should be used to install cirelips without dam- age. 18. After assembly of the shafts, check side play. If evident, use shims as neces- sary on the engine side of the needle bearings to eliminate play, Shalt ball bearings must be pressed into place. Shift Drum, positioning, bolt, O-ring, spring, and plungeren top of the upper crankease half, 4, Remove the cotter pin and guide pin from the shift fork (Grd gear), which rides on the shift drum, Pull out the shift drum, and remove the operating plate eielip, operating plate, and shift fork, 5. Bull out the shift rod and the two remaining shift forks. They are not terchangeable. Note positions. 6. Cheek ull parts for wear. 7. Insert the shift rod into the erank- case and through the two shift forks. TheKawasaki KZ 400/440 4, Gil seo! 25, Fm ( o {lueh puso 26, Bim nl . Shire 2, Lakhs Sh goon fo 38 Siew 1 cea for 37, Shir deve Chain a Needle 2 Neale a 44 Costes oder aa 4, Teched wother 46, Coombe sprocket 4&7, Cone calor a. Cale a Sid ger 2 he a Segre a nmbett ss Set s ieee 58 Splned wesher 0. Spined washer 41 Cele 2. ath geor 66 Ss 16, Neo bering Noe Neriog enter fee ‘hit eam \ I ‘Transmission assembly — 12, Install the shift drum. stopper @ Screws, which should be peened for se- curity, Install the shift dram positioning bolt components ufter turaing the drum, if necessary, so that the plunger is prop” erly in pl Kick-Starter 1, Bend up the tubs on the lockplate of the ratchet gear urm stopper bolts, and remove the bolts and stopper. 2. Remove the spring guide cirelip. eco Helooje Ib spice guitare move the return spring 4. Remove the kick-starter shaft col- lnc clcelip: Remove the shaft stopper and 5. Remove the kick-starter shaft, 6 Remove the gear and thrust wasler. Remove the spring side circlip, and take off the spring cap and spring, ve the ratchet gear and the all parts for wear. 9, Assembly is tho reverse of disas- i fting the rutchee gear, punch mark on the gear with the wotch on the hat Shit drum operting plito fstalation, The mub n iting the return spring, tum BAS Shu operating Plate nsallouon, The mb oh Shaft as far ax possible clockwise, in- sert one end ofthe return spring into the shift forks are not interchangeuble, Note ¢rtnkease and the other end into the kick- that the fork on which the guide pin fs Tocated in the center ofthe fork is lecated nthe eluteh side of the engine, 8 Insert the shift drum into the crankease fiting the shift fork as this 1s done, The pin housing on the shift fork faces the enunkshalt, 9, Install the operating plate pin, iit was removed, and fitthe operating plate, ‘nub facing out. Install the eirelip. 10. Insert the shit fork guide pin, cot ter pin, and secure the cotter pin, Ui Pally itll he shit drum and eng ide pins for the other tWo aig dar notch and punch mak when assem Removing the sift drum shift forks with the drum grooves. thovmtcbot gear onto the =f 777Kawasaki KZ 400/440 Kickstarer shall sssemaly starter shaft. Hold the spring in this posi- tion, and fit the spring guido. 11, Use a bit of high melting point grease on the inside of the collar, Pen the shaft stopper serews for security. Bend down the tabs on the ratchet gear arm stopper bolt lockplate. Balancer REMOVAL 1, Remove the four bolts and two sorews from. the crankshaft bushing cap, Note that the cap has an arrow pointing toward the front of the engine, and it must be refitted in the same way. 2. Remove the balancer ‘Removing the cranks bushing cap, 3. Remove the balancer holder bolts, tap the holders lightly with a plastic mal- let to free them, if necessary; then lift the entire balancer assembly away, 4, M disassembly of the unit is desired, remove the chain, Remove the halders from each balance weight and the shims. 5. Tap off the sprockets with « plastic Remove the springs and pins. Re- move the bolts, and separate the weights from their shafts. INSPECTION 1, Measure the diameters of the bal- aneer shafts and the inside diameters of the holders. Compare to the serviceable 778 1 iin Spring aide a Weer Robber Ship | a of about 10 Ibs to chain und measure a mm (6.30 in.). Serviceable limit is 162. num (6.38 in). 3, Check chain guide thickness, Each must be at least 1.0 mm (0.04 in,) or bet- ter. Balancer Mesaire 20. leoath, Checking the balancer chain for wear 4. Check balancer spring five-length, Standard free-length is 98-104 mm (0.39-0.41 in). Serviceable limit is 9.0 mm (0.35 in.) INSTALLATION ch shaft and fit them into Line up the larger shaft hole in the weight andl fit the bolt, securing it with thread locking ‘compound and torquing to 7:9-9.5 8 Ibs, 2, Install the springs and pins. Fitthe sprocket. The punch mark on. the sprocket must fice away from the bal ancet weight, The sprocket must he in stalled a3 shown, There are four possible ways lo install it, Only one is correct. Pinch mate Sprocket Sprocket installed correctly 3. Install the sprocket side shims, ‘The smuller diameter shim is installed first. Fit the holders onto the shaft. Note that the inuchined side of each holder faces the we assemblyKawasaki KZ 400/440 x fc Tstll holders with the machined side facing the worate /; outed tink Plated Link ‘Tho chromed links must align with the sprocket pnch marks — Inst the sxembly with the holder snows poi "Turn the crankshaft xa thatthe ofl holes ali with the eranketse tating utlace 4. Install the chain on the balancer sprockets. The two chromed links on the chain must align with the punch marks on the sprocket tooth of each sprocket, Tur the holders so that the arrow on each holder points away from the erank- shaft, Align the chrome-plated link, sprocket puncl matk, tan holder line Plated Linke ee FHalacorxssombly corseetly installed, The weights rmsst be directly mpright, ‘Tho orankshaft bushing: eap i instal sro facing he font of at engine 5, Cheek that the holder O- the pin are in place in the crankea 6, Turn the crankshaft so that the oil oles are even with the upper erankease mating surface, as shown, and facing the front of the engin us and 7. Holding the balancer assembly taut afler alignment (Step 4), place one ‘unit in position in the crankease, Tum the sprocket punch mark so that it aligns ‘with the mark on the holders. Engage the Balancer chain with the crankshaft 8, With the baluncer in place, cf that each chrome chain link is aligned with the holder marks. The Balan weights must be directly upright, not cocked to either side. Make sure that each holder is well: seated in its locating pin. Install the holder bolts and tighten to 10-11.5 A Ibs. 10, Install the balancer chain ‘guides one under the upper chain run, one in the ‘crankshaft bushing cap. Li. Oil the crankshaft bushing cap ightly, and install it with the arrow fac- ing the front of the engine, Install the serews, securing them with thread lock- ing compoundTighten the bushing cap- Bolts ina cross patter to 18-22 ft Ibs. Cranksahift REMOVAL 1, Remove the top end components, Juding the pistons. Remove the erank- ©, cover components and split the erankeases. Remove the transmission and the balancer assembly. Refer to the pre- ceding sections for procedures. 2. Remove any balancer holder O-rings which ure loose to prevent loss. Remove the pin in the crankoase which secures the camshaft chain guide locating. pin 3, Remove the crankshaft and eam chain. Remove the chain guide, if dee sired, by pulling out the locating pin. 4. Remove the connecting rods, noting the alignment of the eap and rod marks. ‘The caps must be installed conectly. a. ie, Hetoving thee INSPECTION 1. Check that the rd twisted. 2. Check the condition of the rod beat ss, Use Plastigage® to measure. rod- ‘erankshaft journal clearance which is set fat 0.041-0.071 mim (0.0016-0.0027 Serviceable limit is 0.1. mm (0.0039 i in vide i are not bent or Con vod ane cranbsbat masks 3, Rods and crankshaft joumals are or a lack of a mar the rods is significant. Crankshaft jour- nals will also have a mark or no mark— but this is not significant, since they refer to factory dimensions. Since the journals wear, they must be measured, and marked accordingly. Proceed as follows: ‘8, Measure the diameter of the rod journals. If diameter is. 45.994—~36,000 vm (1.4171-1.4173 in,), mark the jour- nal ("1"). Tf diameter is 35.984-35.994 mm (1.4167-1.4171 in), leave the journal unmarked, NOTE: Ignore any n present on the crankshaft. b. Note the mark or lack of mark on the rods, An unmarked rod has a big end diameter of 39,000-39.010 mm (1.5954-1.5358 in). A snarked rod has a diameter of 39.010-39.016 mm (0.5958"1.5361 fn 779 irks alreadyKawasaki KZ 400/440 ————— ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION SPECIFICATIONS This diameter is measured with the rod cap in place and properly torqued, It does not ielude the bearing inserts; . Bearing inserts are color coded, and. areavailablein three thicknesses: Blue 1.485-L0490mm_ (0.05846-0.05866 in) Black 1.480-1.485mm (0,05827-0.05846 in) Brown 1.475-1 in) 4. After measuring and masking the crankshaft and noting the con rod marks, select the proper bearing insert according tothe folowing If the crank journal is marked, and the rod is not, use the BROWN inserts. If both journal and rod are marked, use the BLACK inserts, If the crank is unmarked, but the rod is, use the BLUE inserts, If neither is marked, use the BLACK insects, 4. Aller fitting new bearing. inserts, check connecting rod side clerance. 5. Check crankshaft run-out. 6, Measure crankshaft main bearing diameter. Check main bearing clearance with Plastipage® and replace the main bearing inserts ifencessive. 7, Install the bushing cap and tighten the bolts tothe proper torque (18-22 Fels), Mea= sure crankshaft thrust clearance as shown, Mesure between the bushing cap and center portion ofthe iywheel. Standards 0.10-0.20 tum (0.0039-0,0078 in). If greater than 0.45 tum (0.0177 in}, the crankeases and the bushing cap must be replaced together, NOTE: Cap and cases are line-bored whea assembled at the factory, and must therefore be replaced in sets. ASSEMBLY 1, Lubricate the rod bearings, and install ‘the rods on the crankshaft, ensuring that the rod and cap marks align as shown. Oil the rod bolts und tighten the nuts to 24-27 feibs. Standard Serviceable Limit (mm/in.) (mm/in.) ‘The rk eaps must be fitted so that the masks sige, Crankcase Assembly 1. Clean the case mating surfaces thor- oughly. Blow out oil passages. 2, Install the main bearings inserts. Be sure that these and all other components are oiled during assembly, 3. Check that the transmission shaft locating pins and bearings set rings are in place. 4. If the camshaft chain guide was removed, install it. The grooved end of the guide pin goes toward the alternator side of the engine. 780 sese-sear/isi11515 27 9627.96/1.010-1.101 0.083-0.10170.0017-0.0040 Jes than 0.02/0.0008 16007820 2013 45018 12.908-12.984/0.5105-0.5112 35.000-18.016/0.5116-0.5125 0:75-1-2570.030.0.050, 6965-s9s0/02762.02768 Sa5s-e970/0 2738-02768 7000-7.016/0.2786-0.2762 0.92-0.08/0.0008-0.0020 9.08-0.06/0.0012-0.0024 meain28 want ossio.ase 0980-039 s3.see64.004/2.5191-25198 Sseeonseasir-2518 0.034.0.054/0.0013-0.0021 18:994-16.000/0.5005-0.5900 15.008.18.01170.5907-0.5010 15.005-15.014/0:5007-0.5011 4.904-15.000/14.98/0 589 46.004-15011/0.5907-0.5810 $8009-15014/05807-0597% 1.460-1.475/0.0575.000501 a7s-2.490/0.0561-0.0587 2475:2.490/0.0974.0.0860 150-152/0.056-0.060 250-2.52/0.008-0.090 0.025-2,060/0.0010-0,0024 0010-0.048/0.0004-0.0018 02.0.410,008-0016 so/031 soso sor3s Jess than 05/0002 po 100: 0.981-0.071/000160.0030 0.35-0.25/0.006-0.0010 Jess than 0.020.008 .036-0.078/0.0014-0.0051, 35.984.38.000/3.4167-1.4179, 0.30-0:20/0.004-0.008 19.987-19.99070-7881-07886 20.007-20,028/0.7877-0.7805. 460.0/6.20 2oreo7e 25/0008 asroaoseoe 38/1508 27.90/1.098 0.16/0.0075 2.1/0.0009 $B24/839 1/0080 20/0079 12.940/0.5005 1305/0.5398) 0.2510.0088 osro.020 860702701 8.350/0.2700 0.08/0.0020" 7.10/0-280 o.1/0.020¢ 70.0004 es8/0.580 15.08/0.504 38.05/0.508, ers0/2es1 5730/2850 1.035.2.062/0.0014-0,0024 ‘.s003-0.5008 16.08/0.504 18.05/0.593, 1.36/0.0843 140/0.0554 2.40/0.0045, 1. 90/0.083 2.80/0.102 0,160.0.0063 0.145.0.0087 o7/028 0/020 751030 soro24 020.008 0.1/0.0030 045/017, '0.0570.0020 ‘0.19700083, ‘s5.04rL415, ‘24570018 yp.9070.7048 -20.08/0.7005 qe24ie9 1.070.030 19/0099 900.36Kawasaki KZ 400/440 ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION SPECIFICATIONS Serviceable Standard Limit (mm/in.) (mm/in.) CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION ‘utch pring ree-tenath sansa meaner 29-3.170.110.12 2670.10 steel plate under 0.15/0.008, a.a0ra012 Iuetion pate ‘uneee0 20/0008, 40/0018 Frlevon plateto-cuteh housing loaranca o15-0.40/0.006-0018 osovo024 place Ctehstonshatlosrance 0'020.0.062/0,0008-0.0024 .1¢2/0.006 Primary chain max play = 20/08 ‘Chasa guide nickness Tst030 S506 Shiterpawispringtreodength —20.4/1.18 diarze oor backla 0.06.0.23/0.002.0.000 oaroore lar fork inger thickness 149-5070.19.0,20 4700.85 Goarfork groove math 505-5 15/0200-0203 ‘25/0207 General Torque Specifications? _Engine Torque Specifications ghee ra Fe teh = Bingine moaotiag bolls 25-01 Guune owing racket ols : 2505 Trent ve-i9 The iwooved end of the chaln guide Joating pin 1588 rar e dynamo (alternate) side HBtoo Breather cover bats tenet be on the dinamo faltoraton side eee ene head belts, Sam ead bolts, 6a et bolts WPPourpit shat 011 Cup Comp Hocker arn shafl sats Altertor rotor bolt Starter clutch bolts Field cad bo ‘Asmatee balls Cheatershake sprocket nat Grrnkeae bul, Sax 125-165 Crasluball bushiog capbols Connecting sod bot "Tuning advance ochanien bolt Nestea indicator (il pressure indicator Ol er bal: Drain plug 6, Install the eam chain guide pin. 7 Check that the oil passage O-ring and the balancer assembly holder ‘O-rings are in place. Install the balancer assembly. 8, Install the crankshaft bushing cap chain guide, arrow pointing toward compound. Install the eapbolts, tighter ing to 18-22 A Ibs in a cross pattern. 8. Install the shift drum and forks. In- Il the transmission shafts and gears. heck that the pushrod oil seal is place. Be sure that the output (coun: tershalt), ofl cup is in place on the right- side of the shat (ower crankcase half). Install the kick-starter assembly. 10. Apply aliquid gusket compound to the upper case hal Install the lower case half, Tighten the lower caso 8 mm bolts in the order shown. Proper torque 18-29 ft Ibs, Tighten the bolts gradu ly ‘The altemator se oll seal is istlled with the spring side facing the cranksbalt. The sidge ox the seal Bs into the groove, 5, Install the crank and cam chain, Note that the altemator side of the crank- shaft is fitted with an oil seal which must be installed with the spring side lacing toward the crank. The ridge on the seal id evenly until the proper fora reached, Tighten the 6 mam bolts gradi= ally and in the order shoven to 5.8-7.3 ft Ibs. 11, ‘Tighten the upper crankcase bolts to 587.3 lbs 13. ‘The remainder of the procedure is the reverse of disassembly. Refer to the preceding sections. Counkeate bole ti¢ensng onler 781Kawasaki KZ 400/440 LUBRICATION SYSTEM OIL PRESSURE 1. Remove the oll pressure indicator switch, and connect the ofl pressure gauge adapter (7001-400). 2. At engine operating temperature pressure should be 57 psi at 4,000 xp ‘3. If pressure is Tow, check the oil pump. ‘Checking oil pressure OIL PUMP Removal 1. The pump is located on the right- side of the lower erankease half. Access to the pump is obtained by removis eluteh. Refer to “Engine and Trans sion” for procedures, ifnecessary. Inspection 1, Measure innerto-outer rotor elear- ance. Stancard is 0.025-0.115 mm (0.0010-0.0045 in.). Replce the rotors if clearance exceeds 0.21 tm (0.0083 {x 2. Check wear to the sides of the rotors by laying « straightedge across the pump (0.0012-0.0095 in.), Replace the rotors if ).15 man (0.0059 in). Checking rotor sido wear 782 waver ely ane lt 5 On roe il pun components Checking outer rtorto-tunp boely elearince 3. Check the clearance between the outer rotor and the pump body. Standard clearance is 0:10-0:15 mm {0.004-0.006 in.) Replace either the outer rotor or the pump body. (depending on which is wom), if clearance exceeds 0.25. mm (0.0088 in.) Disassembly 1. Remove the C-ring and washer from the wear shaft 2 Separate the body halves and re- move the rotors. 3. Remove the shaft pin to remove the gear from the body hall. Assembly 1. Ass bly is the reverse of disas- sembly. Note that the sides of the rotors «with the punch marks face away from the gear when installed. Roton t & a ae {otal tors with the punch marks facing outward Installation 1, Oil the pump intemals thoroughly before installation. Use new O-rings if necessary. Be sure that the O-rings are in place. OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE L. The oil pressure relief valve is lo- cated in the lower crankcase half. 2. To remove the valve, separate the case halves as outlined in “Engine and Transmission.” Unserew the valve from the case. 3. To disassemble the yalve, remove the circlip, and take out the washer, spring, and valve piston. L Gireio Sem Tessa valilecronens 4. Measure the diameter of the piston. Measure the inside diameter of the valve body. Standard clearance is 0,020-0,103. mm (0.0008-0.0041 in.). Replace oither the piston or the body (depending: on which is wom), if clearance exceeds 0.13 mim (0.0051 in.), 5. Measure the free-length of the spring. Standard value is 20.6 mm (0.811 in. Serviceable limit is 18.0 me (0748 6. Assembly is the reverse of disas- sembly. Use thread locking compound ‘when installing the valve in the erank= case.Kawasaki KZ 400/440 OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR SWITCH 1, Ltd bull fails to light when the ig tion Switel is turned on, disconnect the wire from the presureswite 2, Check for continuity between the switch terminal and the switeh body If resis- tance is noted, ori there is no continuity, the switch is defective. If there is continuity (n0 resistance), check the bulb and wiring 3. The warning buld should go off when the engine passes 1,500 rpm. If i does not, stop the engine andl disconnect the switch lead. Connect an ohmmeter or continuity light between the switch lead and the engine (ground) Thereshould be no resistance when the engine is off, and infinite resistance (n0 ‘Checking the ofl presse ndlcatoe switch 4. [continuity is noted with the engine ‘turning over 1,500 rpm, check ol pressure. If oil pressure issatis(actory, replace theindica~ tor switch, Use thread locking compound when installing the switeh. Tighten it 10 10.0-11.5 ftlbs FUELSYSTEM Refer to “Carburetors” in the “General Information” section for carburetor theory, inspection, and troubleshooting, GAS TANK Removal 1, Turn off the fuel petenck, Slide the fuel line clamps of the petcock fting, and disconnect the two fuel lines From the pet cock, 2. Open the seat, Unhook the rubber tanle strap, and pull the tine backeard and off the machine. Installation 1 Installation is the reverse of removal 2, Secure all fuel line eonnections. Check for leaks before operation. CARBURETORS (1974-76) Removal ‘The carburetors are removed together, 4, Remove the gas tank. 2, Remove the left and right sidecovers, 3, Loosen the rubber intake manifold clansp screws and the sir cleaner duct clamp screws and move the duct clamps away from the carburetors 4, Pull the carburetors out of the intake ‘manifolds-and move them as faras possible to ‘theright-side ofthe motoreyet S, Adjust the cable adjusters at the twist- ‘ip to yield the maximum amount of throttle able free-play. Unscew exch of the cable adjusters at the carburetors from its bracket Gable ajusers are detache! rom their brackets to and disengage each throttle cable from the polly. 6, Remove the carburetors from the ma- chine, care to pull the overflow and breather tubes out of their guide, Disassembly 1, Drain the fuel from each float bow Although not necessary for disassembly, the carbs may be removed from their mounting plate by removing, the «wo screws which Secure each one, and disconnecting the choke linkage and balance screw connection, Removing the mati jt and keeper sein 2, Reamove the carburetor caps, Pull out the thotteslide and remove theslide gasket, ‘To remore the needle, remove the retaining sero 3, Remove the serew securing the caver plate made accessible by removal of theslide, Unserew and remove the main and slow air Jets 4, Remove the float bowl screws, and ‘ake of the Moat bow! Lift out the jet keeper spring. Push out the float pivot pin, Remove the float and flat needle. 6, Unserew the float needle sat retainer, and pullout the seat 7, Pull out the main jet. Turn the carb right sie up and allow the needle jet to drop ou ', Unscrew and remove the starter jet. ‘Remove the pilot passage plug, and unscrew the pilot jet and slow jet. Assembly I. Reverse the disassembly procedure, Use new gaskets and O-rings. Install 1. Check that the butterfly valves are parallel to the carburetor bores when the pul- ley is rotated fully. If not, loosen the pulley stop serew locknutand turn the screw to make the adjustment. Tighten the lockaut. age the accelerator throttle exble with the pulley, and screw the cable adjuster all the way toto its bracket, Install the decelerator cable in the stme manner, Screw booth cable adjusters out about halfway of their length. ion : eae ‘Use the pulley stop sere, if wocessary, so tat the Ibateeiy valves are naralle to theie bores wea the ralley i opened ae far 38 posible Atuchinir the accelerator eable to the palley 3, ‘The remainder of the procedure isthe revere of removal. Be sure that all lines are correctly routed and properly secured. Adjust the throttle cables ‘Cheek for proper operation before riding: the machine. CARBURETORS (1977 AND LATER) Removal 1. Remove the gas tank, Remove the left ‘and right side covers. 2. Disconnect the lead from the oil pres- sure switch to avoid damage during removal. 3, Loosen the carburetor chimp screws, ‘Some models have springs on the air cleaner side. Roll the springs away from the carbure- 4. Disconnect throttle cablesand hoses at the carburctors 5. Pull the carburetors out of the intake ‘manifold hoses and then the air cleaner hoses and take them out tothe right side, assembly Refer to the exploded view of the carbure- tor assembly for disassembly and assembly 783Kawasaki KZ 400/440 4. Upper Brecket 42, Phot Serow 2. cop 45. Spring 3. Lockwasher 44, Washer 4: Washer 45, O-Ring & Nut 48, Blood Pipe & Choke Lever 47, Prmaty ln Jot 7 Lower Bracket 40; Platt Bott 49, 0.8ing 2, Balt 40, Plastic Pug 10, Lockout 51, Lockwosher 11, Balance Adhsing Screw 52. Serem 12) Washer 88. Screw 48: Spring 18, Chp 18: Overtiow Tube 16. CabloBeacket 7 tink 18 Screw 18: Suna 54. cap . 55. Spi 24. Choko Link Spring Ee Holdin Seow 22. ChokoLink 57. Needle ‘Fiat Washer 58, Diaphragm 1. Fast idio Gam Fat Washer Fat Washor 59, Throttle Slide 0. Carburetor Body 81, Needle Jot Ile Adjusting Screw Clip 85. Needle Clip Fuel Lino ‘S.way Joint O-Ring ip 68, Float Bowt Vacuu 70. Drain Scraw acon nee 71, O-Ring 41, Plug » Carburetors may have minor variations depending on model and year. 1. Drain the gasoline from each Moat bow! and dispose of it safely. 2, Remove the carburetor caps. Remove the spring. Carefully pull out the diaphragm and throttle slide assembly taking eare not to Puncture or otherwise damage the rubber diaphragm. 3. Remove the Moat bow! screws. Car- fully take off the bowl, If itis stuck, tap around the sides with the screwdriver handle until i is free. Do not pry or use excessive force, 4. Push out the float pin. Take out the float and needle assembly. '. Unscrew the secondary main jet, nec- dle jet holder, primary main jet and bleed Pipe 62. Needle Jet Holder 83. Secondary Main Jet (64, Float Valve Needle Cerburetors (1977-0n) 6. Remove the plastic plug and O-ring and unscrew the pilot jet. 7, Turn the carburetors right side upand push out the needle jet with a wooden dowel, NOTE: Pilot et removal may violate emis- sions regulations Assembly 1. Clean all metal pars ina fe solvent, Use Tow pressure compressed ur to blow out passages in jets and carburetor bodies. 2, The use of new gaskets and O-rings is recommended. 3. Assembly is the reverse of diassern- by. Do not overtighten jets 4, When fitting the throtle slides, en- gage the diaphragm tsb with the eutout provided. 1. Cheek that both butterfly valves open and close smoothly with no binding. 2. Check the clearance ofeach valverela- tive to the carburetor bore. If they differ, loosen the locknut and turn the balance nd: justing screw until clearance is the same for both, 3. The remainder of the installation procedure is the reverse of removal. Adjust throttle cable(s) after installation. Be sure that all lines and connections are secure, 4. Check for gas leaks before riding the motorcycle. CARBURETOR SPECIFICATIONS. K2400 (1974-78) __KZ400(1977-On) _KZ440A,D KZ440B, C Type CVB36 cva2 cv36 cva6 Primary Main Jet 125 70 62(1980) 68 65(1981-On) Secondary Main Jet - 90R 88 90 Jet Needle = 003001 No2A Noga Main Air Jet 60 120 130 130 Secondary Air Jet 10 50 50 50 Pilot Air Jet = 130 125 125 Pilot Fuel Jet 35 35 35 35 Pilot Screw (turns out) 1% pre-set pre-set pre-set Fuel Level (rnm/in.) 93,5/1.32 $-5/0.12-0.20 3-5/0.12-0.20 3-5/0.12-0.20 Butterfly Angle 10°30" = SS = 784Kawasaki KZ 400/440 ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS IGNITION SYSTEM (1974-80) 1. The igntionsystem consists ofa single set of points, a condenser, and the ignition coil. The coil has two leads—one for each plug—and the eylinders therefore fire a4 the same time, However, since only one cylinder is on the compression stroke at any time, there is a waste spark at the other eylinder. 2. Since the two plug leads are inter- dependent (one connected to each end of the secondary evil), disconnecting one lead will result in a lack of spark at both cylinders. Therefore, if one plug is dirty, fouled, or defective, acither eylinder wll heve spark, 3. If there isnospark, and common items such as fuse, plugs, points and wiring connee- tions have been checked, remove the plug caps and check for spark by grounding the leads against the eylinder head. If there is spark, one or both of the caps is defective Replace both 4, Check the condenser. Ifthe proper test equipment is available, the condenser should rate 0.22 mfd, Alternately, check the condi- tion of the points. Pitting, a burned-looking condition, or mounds and matching depres- sous ace signs of arcing which is caused by a Gefective condenser, Replace both points and ‘condenser if these conditions are noted, 5, Checkthecondition of thei primary winding by disconnecting the two primary winding leads and checking resis- {ance across them (blue and red/yellow), Re- sistance should be3.8-4.2 ohms, 6, Ifthe primary win limits, check the secondary winding by mea- suring resistance across the two spark plug leads, Itshould be approximately 13K ohms. 7. Ifeither of thesetestsindicatesa resis- taneé not within the given specifications, re place the coil. IGNITION SYSTEM (1981 AND LATER) ‘These models use a transistorized ignition system replacing the breaker points of earlier years. 1, Ifignition problems arse, rst be sure that all wicing is in good order, connections and clean, ete, Ignition timing isnot adjusted, but the ‘mechanical timing. advance meckanism ‘uehind the pickup eo is thesamess oneurlier models. Be sure that the mechanism is clean ‘and free to move the balance weights, Check thal the springs are in good condition. 3, To check the pickup coil, remove the ‘20s lank and disconnect the leads. Check that there is infinite resistance between cither lead. and the chassis, Check the resistance between the leds is 360-540 ohms. 4, The ignition coil can be checked as outlined for 1974-80 models, above, CHARGING SYSTEM ‘The charging system consists of the alter- nator, rectifier, and regulator. Alternator 1, Before carrying out the following al- ‘temnator output test, besure that the batteryis Ignition Switch Sn Battery Sonics [A Engine Stop Switch Spark Plug ignition Coil Spack Plug Tpaiton chcwit wslog fully charged. A low or defective battery will cause misleading readings. Irthe battery will tot bold a full charge replace 2, Remove the left sidscaver and the keadght, Disconnect the G-wire connector ‘beneath the sidecover and the 9-wire connec- in the headlight shell. Disconnect the ie ects ea from he Bley positive 3. Set a DC voltmeter to the 30v range. Connect the postive meter lead io the ree tifier white lead and the negative meter lead ‘to ground on the frame, 4, Remove the right sidecover. Discon- eet the green and the brown regulator leads from terminals "F and "." Conaeet these twoleads together, NOTE: Carryout the test as quickly as possible and disconnect the green and brown feads from each ther as soon as the test is finished, Be sure that the leads are Insulated from the fame. 5, Start the engine and allow it voidle at 1,100-1,300 rpm. The volimeter should read Lay DC or more, If Jess than this amount, either the alternator or the rectifier i defec: tive. CAUTION: Do not let the engine turn above idle speed or the electrical compon- ents may’be damaged. 6, If the proper vollage reading was not ‘bjained, check the retifier us outlined inthe following procedure. If the rectifier is satis- Factory, check the alteraator current output as follows. 7. Connecta | obm-2001W variable resis- tor, one lead to the rectifier white lead and the other to ground on the frame, Sette resistor At ts maximum resistance and start the en give. Adjust the resistor to maintain a yolt- ‘moter reading of 14.5, while gradually rais- ing rpm to 5,000, 8 Siop the engine, Disconnect the volt- tte nd te reso Kad Co the reefer ‘white wire, 9, Connect an ammeter, set to the 30 DC range, to the variable resistor and to the rectifier white wire. This will put the meter, resistor, and recifierinseries. Besurethatall Connections are tight. Sart and run the en- gineat 5,000 rpm. The meter should read 133 DC. If the current reading is lower, the alter- nator is defective, ‘To determine which alternator component is faulty, proceed as follo 10. Remove the right sidecover and dis- connect the plug just below the regulator With an ohmmeicr, check the resistance between each ofthe three leads, Resistance should be 0.4-0.6 ohms, If any measurement shows infinite resistance, the armature hasan Open circuit and must be replaced, 1. With the highest meter range set to ‘operate, measure resistance between cach of the three Leads and the frame (ground). Re- sistance should be infinite in exch case. Ifa reading Jess than this is noted, the armature must be replaced as there isa shor cireuit, 12, Using the low rangeon the ohmmeter, check resistance between the field col leads: green and black, It must be 48 ohms, An infinite rea cates @ break in the field Gol, while a lower one indicates @ short. In Either ease, replace the col Rectifier 1. A full-wave reetitir with six diodes is tused_ An ahmmeter is used to check the re tier. 21 Remove the left sidecover, disconnect the white rectifier lead from the baitery and sisconnect the rectifier black lead, The en sine must be off 3. Remove the right sidecover and dis- ‘connect the plug blow the regulator. 4. Using the 10 of 100 ohm meter xange, check resistance between the white lead and ‘each ellow lead inturn,and then bowen the black lead and etch yellow lead. Resistance measurements must be taken in both dicec- ‘ions that i, reverse the metet probes after ‘each reading and take anothe ‘Note the readings. Ithere slow resistance ‘in one direction, there must be 10 times the. amount when the leads are reversed, any set ‘9f readings are cither low or high in. both directions, the rectifier must be replaced Regulator (Mechanical) 1, Remove the left sidecover and discon- nect the 6-wire connector. Remove the head- light and disconnect the 9-wire connector in theshel 2. Set a voltmeter to the 30v DC range und connect it across the battery. Start the engine and run it at 1,600 rpm. ‘The meter should read 14-15v. NOTE: Asin the alternator test, tho bat- tery must be fully charged. 3. Increase engine speed. At 4,000 rpm, the meter reading should gain be 14-15v. NOTE: Proceed to 4,000rpm from a start ing point of 1,600. If rpms returns to idle speed, increase it gradually 10 1,600 and then f0 4,000. 4. If voltage was not correct in both cases, proceed with the following checks: NOTE: if the machine is still under war- ranty, the reguletor should be replaced at this point. 5, Remove the right sidecover; discon- hect the black, green, and brown regulator 785Kawasaki KZ 400/440 Regulator Resistance 2 Sana Sra 2 jpeg Pain 2 Adler om 8a cal fe tltorcomeonents leads from terminals. “E," “F? Remove the regulator cover. 6. With the obmmeter set to the low Fange, check the resistance according tothe hast! 7. Clean points with solvent if necessary. fbadly pitted, use emergy loth. Ifthe points ‘eunnot be cleaned to achieve zero ohms resis- tance, replace the regulator. 8. Pressdown oa the armature and check, and “I Hicoiling the Fy bilder to comect ergulatar output the gap. Itshould be 0.3 mm (0.012in), Ifnot correct, bend the P; holder. 9. Check the gap between P-and Po, It should be 0,30-045 mm (0.012-0,018 in). If adjustment is needed, bend the holder for Py. 10. Assemble the regulator and make all connections. Recheck regulator ‘output as described previously. If woltage was too high, (t tao low, adjust by bending the adjusting, arm, Bending: the arm out away from the ‘machine will increase the output voltage and vice versa, 1. Recheck output. At2,000rpm, output should be 14-15y. Adjust again, if necessary asin Step 10, 12, Check output st 4,000 rpm. Ifvoltage ‘vas t00 high or too low, bend the P; holder. end it toward the machine to increase vol- tage, and vice versa. 13. Recheck at 2,000 and 4,000 rpm. 786 Eat di a resistunce, there is a Poston abou om | Mam elie ai IW oes 1 ny une bee Gln fesrelegtienciy uggs werncuast amen eos shest. Replace rezulator. OPoints Fe and @Points Ps and "ate contaet by spring fee Regulator/ Rectifier ‘This solid-state component is ot adjust- able. When the engine is running above idle, the regulator should develop about 14.5¥ ‘cross the battery terminals. The battery, must be in a good state of charge for an accurate reading. Ifvoltage is not within this range, the unit must be replaced, ‘The rectifier section of this unit can be checked for resistances described for earlier types, above. STARTER MOTOR I. Refer to “Engine and Transmission” for removal and installtion procedures. See “Left Crankease Cover Components, Alter nator, and Starter Assembly.” 2. Disassemble the starter motor. by removing the body screws, , Carbon brush length is 11,0-125 mm 4. Clean the commutator surface with a solvent, polishing with fine emery cloth if necessary, 5. Clean out the commutator grooves and cheek their condition. Standard groove ‘pth is 05-0,8 mmm (0,02-0.03n,), while the serviceable limits 0.2 sam (0,008 in). 6. There must be litle or no resistance between each of the commutator segments Use low meter range when checking. Resise tance between the segments and the armature shaft must be infinite. Use high range when checking. 7. Check resistence between the positive cerbon brush and the starter motor lead, There must be no or very ltile resistance, If considerable resistanceis noted, the field coils ‘must be replaced, Use the lowest meter range when making this check, 8. Check resistance between the positive ‘carbon brush and the starter motor body. It must be infinite, or there isa short necessitat> ing replacement of the fleld coils. Use the highest meter range when making this check. enkract by presing wn the aemature with 2 Boger. Solenoid 1. After disconnecting the motor lead {from the solenoid, connect an ohmmeter, set ‘on the low scale, across the solenoid termin- als, Push the starter button, Resistance when the button is pushed must be zero. If higher, replace the solenoid. 2. IF the solenoid does not click when the starter button is pushed, disconneet the black tnd yellow /red solenoid leads and check re- sistunce across the terminals, It must be close tozezo ohms. If higher, replace the solenoid, 2. Check that voliage is getting to the solenoid from the battery. If so, replace the solenoid ifit failed any of the above tess, SWITCHES, Ignition Switch 1. In the “Oft" position, all four switch Jeads must be insulated (no continuity) from exch other. 2. In the “On” position, there must be continuity between the whiteand brownlcads, und betieeen the blue and red leads. 3. Inthe “Pack” position, there must be ‘continuity betwen the white and red leads; none between the others. Headlight Dimmer Switch 1, In the “high beam” position, there must be continuity between the blue and red/bluck leads, 2, Inthe “low beam” position there must be continuity between the red/yellaw and blue leads Brake Light Switches DISC BRAKE 1. Disconnect the leads from the switeh ‘which is just above the lower triple clamp. ‘Continuity should exist when the brake lever ispulled. Ifnot, replace the switch. 2. Protect “plated or painted surfaces from possible brake fluid spillage when removing the switch. 3._ Apply thread locking compound tothe threads of the new switch, but not on the lower quarter of the threads to aveid con- tamination of the brake fluid ‘4, Bleed the brake lines, DRUM BRAKE 1. Front drum brake light leeds arein the headlight shell (blue and beown). 2. Rear brake light switch leads are ue- cexssibleat the rear of the gask tank, 3. Continuity between the leads must be Present when the brake lever of pedal it ap- lied, or the switch must be replaced,Kawasaki KZ 400/440 FRONT WHEEL Removal and Installation DISC BRAKE 1, Support the front wheel off the sound. 2. Remove the axle nut cotter pin, Re move the nut and washer. 3, Remove the axle clamp muts from the slider, Remove the clamp. 4, Support the wheel and pull ont the axle fo remove the wheel “To install the wheel: 5, He sure that the speedometer cable ated on the inside of the fender pedometer rear hous- ing to the wheel. 6, Install the wheel, slipping the axle through ftom the dise side, 7 Install the axle clamp. Note that the arrow on the bottom of the clamp must point toward the front of the motoreycle. ‘The clamp is machined unevenly so that there will be a ap between the clamp and the slider at the rear of the slider. In- stall the washers and nuts, but do not tighten them. stall these clamp 35 shown 8, Install and tighten the axle nut to 72-04 ft Ibs, Chock that the speedometer gear Housing does nat move wher this i jone, Use a new cutter pin, 9. Tighten the front axle clamp nut to 1.0-14.5 ft Ibs, then tighten the rear nut to the same torque, DRUM BRAKE 1, Support the front wheel off the ground, 2, Remove the brake and unscrew the adjust rect the cable from the ont the brake lever fitting, 8. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the brake plate after removi securing bolt. 4, Unbolt the brake anchor from the slider and the brake plate. 5. Remove the axle nut. Remove the axle clamp nuts and the clamp. 6. Lift the wheel slightly, and pull out the axle, then remove the wheel from the machine. ‘To install the wheel: 7. Put the wheel into position be: tween the sliders. Insert the uxle from the brake plate side, Install the axle clamp, CHASSIS “The wale clamp aaiow plots townrd the fran af he olerepele Install, but do not tighten, the clamp nuts, Note that the arrow stamped on th clamp points toward the ont of the mu toreyele, ‘The clamp is muchined ws evenly, When instilled, there will be a gap between the elamp and the slider at the rear of the slide 8. Fit, but do not tighten, the axle washer and nut, 9, Install the brike anchor, tighten- {ng the nuts to 19.5-22.0 ft Ibs. 10, ‘Tighten the axk it fghten the forewardmost clamp nut to 18.0-14.5 ft Ibs, and then tighten the rear one to the same toraue. sl he remainder ofthe procedure fs the reverse of removal Disassembly DISC BRAKE 1. To disassemble the speedometer gear housing, disconnect the eable. Pall out the gear drive with snap-ring pliers Remove the bush and pinion after dr ing out the locating pin, Pack the assem Dly with grease prior to assemb! 2, Unbolt and remove the dise. Re- move the disc-side lub cap. 3. Pry ont the dise side grease seal, Remove the bearing retainer eitclip, 4, Using a drift, tap around the outer mice of the speedometer gear side wheel Ueanng wnt edie 126 easing is riven out, 1 12, Spendenstr gear hang 2 13 Pe 3 14 Wess 5 Brees die 16 bese & Whedltee 17, Onarsdive 7. Gree wel 1, Sperdomser gear 1 Geesp 1% Asem 9. Wheel beeing 20, Cater sn 12, Spacer 2, Wael 1, Grres e 5, Remove the remaining grease seal and speedometer drive, Remove the re- ring by tapping out ike linings from the pulling them apart until free of their cams. 2, To remove the brake levers and linkage from the brake cams, first mark the positions of the lovers relative to the cums, Remove the pinch-bolts. Remove the lovers, return spring, woar indicator, ‘ete, Push the cams out of the brake plate noting the dust seals. 3, Remove the speedometer pinion gear by nnscrewing the bushing, 4, Remove the hub cap faxle nut side), 5. Pry out the grease seal. With a suit- able drift, tap aronnd the race of the right- side wheel beuring until the left-side bearing. Remove the remaining bearing in the same manner. 6, Remove the speedometer gear using a gear puller, Remove the remain- ing grease seal Inspection ) mit is 02 mm (0,008 in), Although it may be possi- ble to straighten slightly bent axles, those a runout which exceeds 0.7 mm (0.028 in.) must be replaced, Measured run-out is tho total gauge variation, Check wheel bearings for rough ro- 2, binding, looseness, ete, after re- moving ld grease and oiling Lightly Grease seals which have ro moved must be replaced with new ones, Ifthe scals are still in place, check for obvious danuge, hardening, ete. ‘or brike dise inspection, refer to ise Brake” section, following, Check brake lining thickness. Stan- urd is 4.75-5.20 mn (0,19-0.20 in.) Ser- able nm (0.10 in, root ise brake whee! assemblyKawasaki KZ 400/440 ce ‘cave Cass 6. Ghieck brake drum inside diameter. Standard is 180.0-180,2 man (7.086-7.004 in), Serviceable Timit is 180.75. mm (7.116 in, Check brake spring free-length. ‘Stndard is 467173 mm (184-1 Serviceable limit is 48.5 mam (1.01 in.) 8, Brake cam’ diameter (standard) 14957-14,984 mm (0.5889-0.58919 in} Servicoable limit is 14.88 sum (0.584 in Cam hole diameter is (0.5906-0.5916 in). Servieeuble I 15.18 ram (0.598 in). hu hvbeel bearing numbers areas fl Dise brake: #8302 Drum brake! left #6302% ght #6302 Assembly DISC BRAKE 1. Pack hearings before assembly. 2. ‘Tighten the disc bolts to 11.5-16.0 ft Ibs. DRUM BRAKE 1, Grease the speedometer pinion id replace it with the washers n the bushing. 2. Grease the eams lightly and install them. Grease the brake pivat pins. Install the linings. 3, Be sure to fit the dust seals to the ‘cums. Install he brake wear indicator $0 point Jy just to the right of the 'E” in “RANGE,” 4. Fit the bruke linkage, enuaging the ‘end of the return spring into its hole in, the brake plate, then push on the levers aligning the reference marks made be- 788 Front dan bie wheel aston 5. Assomble the hub, packing the bearings with grease and’ pressiny them in with a suitable drift Tf the speedome- ter gear was removed, peen il in four the reverse of disassembly LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT 1, Fitthe wheel t0 the motoreycle and seoure it at all points, 2. Support the front wheel off the ‘Drum brake linkage adjacent, second step 4. Spin the whee! slowly and ture in the cable adjusting nut until the shoe contiolled by the main brake lever just touches the drum. 5. Continue taming the wheel, and tom the connecting rod in the dition ” shown until the secondary shoe just touches the drum. 6. The brakes ure now synchronized. Tighten the connecting rod Tocknut. Ad~ just the cable as outlined in "Mainte- REAR WHEEL Removal and Installation 1. Disconnect the brake anchor from the brake pl 2, Disconnect the brake light switch spring from the brake pedal. Remove the brake adjusting nut from the bruke rod Disconnect the rod from the brake lever: 3. Remove the axle nuts Take out the 4A. Remove the axle spacer from the right-side of the wheel. Move the wheel as faras possible to the right to detach it from the coupling and remove it from motoreycle. To install the wheel 5. Reverse the removal procedure, ‘The asle is inserted from the leftside of the wheel. Tiuhten the brake anchor mut fo 195-22 ft Ibs. Then tighten the avle rut to 94-116 Mt Ibs Disassembly 1. Matk the position of the lever rela- Live to the brake eam, Remove the pinch bolt, wear indicator, and dust seal 2. Remove the lake lever, Pull the brake shoes, complete with the eam, out of the brake plate, Spread the shoes to disassemble. 3. Reach through the hub with a long punch and tap out the rightside wheel bearing. Remove the spacer and tap out the left-side bearing from the inside of the hub. Inspection 1. Axle run-out (inex. standard) is 0.05 n (0.002 in.). Serviceahle limit is 0.2 ‘nun (0.008 in,). Although it may be possi- Le ostruihten slighty emtaaes, those with a run-out which exceeds 0.7 mm (0.028 in.) must be replaced. Measured mm-out is the total gauge variation. 2. Check whee! bearings for rough ro- tation, binding, looseness, ete, after te- snoving ol grease and fling thy 3. Check brake lining thickness. Stan- dard is 5.35-6.05 mm (0.21-0.24 in.) Ser- vicealle limit is 2.5 mm (0-10 in.) 4. Cheek brake drum inside diameter. Standard is 180.0—180.9 mim (7.088-7.004 in). Serviceable limit is 180.75 am (7.116 in) 5. Check brake spring’ fiee-lensth Standard is 56.0 mm (2.20 in.), while ser- Vieeable limit is 580 mun (2.28 in) Brake, cam lametr (standard) iKawasaki KZ 400/440 Stipped Portions Heplace pads w lien either is worn ta the stepped > ‘Removing pad B off its washer and Remove the inner pad (“B") 3. Apply. the brake lever until the outer pad (“A”) is pushed out, 4, Loosen the bleed nipple slightly, push the piston in as faras possible, then tighten the nipple, 5, Place the shim on the rear of the outer pad. shim projection over pad pr Jection, align the pad projection with the slot in the bottom of the caliper, and in- sert the pad. 6, Install the “B," metal aise, and screw. Use thread locking compound on the setew. metal plate. at the shim projection over the pad projection Check reservoir fluid level, NOTE: After fitting new pads, avoid hard application of the brake for at leust 50 miles. Replace the dust seal nel piston fluid seal every other lime the pads are replaced. Refer to "Cali- per” for procedures. may be checked in pluce. thickness. Standard is (05 ini (0.27-0,28 in,). Serviceable 5 mm (0.22 in.) tandard is 0.1 mm Himit is 3, Check run-out, (0.004 in.) or less, Serviceable Limit is 0.3 mm (0.012 in.) NOTE: If run-out is excessive, check that the reading is not being caused by, 790 bad wheel bearings before replacing the dise, 4. The dise is easily removed by une bolting it from the wheel after the wheel is removed. Tighten the nuts to 11.5-16.0 {els for installatio Caliper CAUTION: Caliper parts (except dise and pads) are cleaned with new brake fisid, isopropyl alcohol, or ethyl alco hol ONLY. Do not use anything else, REMOVAL 1, Disconnect the brake line at the cal- iper and plug the end to prevent fluld spillage. 2. If the caliper holder ix to be re- moved loosen the two allen bolts. 3, Remove the two mounting bolts and luke off the caliper, DISASSEMBLY 1. Remove the pads. Apply com: pressed air to the brake line fitting to foree out the piston, If the piston cannot be removed, replace the caliper. 2, Being very careful of the caliper walls, remove the dust seal and the fluid seal from the caliper. 3, Remove the allen bolts previously loosened and pull out the caliper holder, Nemoving tho piston fom the caliper with com: pressed ar INSPECTION 1. Check the dimensions of all parts against the ications given in the “Chassis Specifications” chart at the end of this section, 2. Replace the Auid seal if leakage around the pad is noted, if there is a large difference in wear between the pads, orif the seal is stuck to the piston. ASSEMBLY 1. Clean caliper internals (except ads) with new brake fluid, isopropyl al- cohol, or ethyl alcohol. 2. Assembly is the reverse of disas: sembly. Be sure that the caliper holder dust cover is properly secured, Goat the sides of the piston with brake uid before insexting it into the caliper INSTALLATION 1. Installation is the reverse of re~ moval. Tighten allen bolts to 22-26 ft Ibs, id mounting bolts to 18-24 f Ibs. Tighten banjo bolts to 18-24 ft Ibs. 2. Bleed the system. Master Cylinder REMOVAL 1, Remove the right-side mirror. 25, Du corer 26 Hove 18. Piney cop 2 Orenmat. 1, Spring ome 24 Breve Wight swith 12, Chace vole ently, 29, Seay io 12, Spader cop 20, Fee 14 aah 2), as 34 How ‘Master eyloer assembly 2. Slip off the hanjo fitting dust cover and disconnect the brake line from the master eylinder; note the washer on ther side of the banjo, 3. Remove the two clamp bolts, taking ceare that uid és not spilt, and remove the master eylinder. Disassembly 1, Remove the reservoir cap and dia- phragm and pour out the brake fluid. 2, Remove the brake lever. Use the special master cylincler stopper remover to remoye the dust seal stopper and then take out the dust seal. 3, Remove the retaining ring and re- move the stopper, piston, primary eup, spring, and check valve out of the master cylinder. Do not remove the secondary cup from the piston. Inspection 1. Check the master cylinder compo- nents against the standard specificatio: given in the “Chassis Specifications” chart at the end of this section, 2. Check for obvious defects to the master cylinder bore and the piston body. }- Inspect the rubber parts for damage or rotting and swelling, The cups should be slightly larger than the eylinder bore. Tfleakage at the master cylinder has oc- curred, replace both cups. Replacement of the ‘secondary cup requires replace- ment of the piston as wellKawasaki KZ 400/440 24 Sproul bb eating 27 Coupling sleeve eat wheel and spracket assembly 17,18 mm (0.676 in.) 7. Wheel bearing numbers are as fol- low: Left: #6303 Right: #63032 Assembly 1. Grease the eam lightly before én- stallation. Grease the brake plate pins as well 2, Assembly is the reverse of disas- sembly, When fitting the brake wear in- dicator, have it point just to the right of the “E" in “RANGE,” SPROCKET ASSEMBLY Removal 1, Disconnect the drive chain, Follow the rear wheel removal procedure as pre- ly outlined, and in addition, renove coupling sloov her. The wheel and sprocket assembly: can th removed fiom the motoreycle togethe: Loosening the coupling sleeve nut Disassembly 1. Bend down the locking tabs on the sprocket nuts, Remove the nuts and the sprocket. Detach the coupling from the rear wheel 2, Pull aut the sleeve and collar. 3, Remove the grease seal by prying it out 4, Use a suitable drift to tap out the coupling bearing. 'The bearing is driven ‘out of the sprocket side of the coupling. Inspection 1. Check condition of the coupling rubber dampers in the wheel hub. Re- place any which are damaged. 2, Check the condition of the coupling: bearing in the same manner as wheel bears, Repack with new grease before installation. heck the sprocket teeth for eondi- tion, Check diameter, Standard is 217.4 mun (8.56 In.) Serviceable limit is 215.5 som (8.48 in 4. Sprocket run-out is less than 0.9 mm (0012 n.); seplace the sprocket if it is swarped more than 0.5 em (0.020 in.) 5. Chain condition can, be checked by stetching the chain with about 25 Ibs pressure and measuring the length of a 20:pin section of chain, Standard length is 317.5 mm (12.50 in.); replace the: chain ifthe measurement is over 323 mm (12.7 in). Assembly 1, Reverse the disassembly procedure. Repack the bearing with ereuse, Tighten sprocket nuts to 25-31 ft Ibs, Installation Refer to “Rear Wheel Removal and In- stallation” for procedures. Be sure that the chain masterlink spring clip is in- stalled with the closed end facing the di rection of chain rotation, DISC BRAKE SERVICE When servicing the hydmulie dise brake system, observe the following px ‘eautions: a, Brake fluid absorbs moisture, re, never add fluid from an old or an unsealed container; b. Do not add fluid which bas been pumped out of the system, Add new uid only: ¢. Protect all plated and painted sur- faces from possible contact with spilled brake fluid; . Do not mix types of brake fluid. Use DOT 3 brake fluid only. The fole Jowing types are recommended: Atlas Exira Heavy-Duty Shell Super Heavy-Dut Texaco Super Heavy: Wasner Lockheed Heavy-Duty Girling Amber Flushing 1. Attach « clear plastic hose which swill it smugly to the caliper bleed nipple and put the other end ina quantity of brake fluid in a suitable container. 2. Open the bleed nipple and apply the: brake lever in slow, even strokes until all of the old Guid is pumped out. 3. Close the bleed nipple. Refill the reservoir with fresh Suid, Open the nip- ple, apply the Hever, and, holding. it against the Inndgrip, clase the nipple and quickly release the lever. 4, Repeat this procedure until the new fluid beens to come out af the hose. 5, Bleed the air from the system. Bleeding This should he done after flushing, or it ‘any brake line junction has been discon- nected, or ifthe brake lever feels spongy or the brake is inefficient, 1. Top up the finid reservoir if'neces- sary 2, With the reservoir cap off, slowly pump the lever several times until no air bubbles can be seen rising from the pas- sages at the bottom. 3, Replace the eap, Fit a length of plas: tic hose which will fit snugly to the cal per bleed nipple, immersing the other end of the hose in a quantity of brake fluid in a suitable container, 4. Apply the brake lever several times until it becomes hard. Hold it tightly and Toosen the bleed nipple, then close it quickly. 5, Release the lever. Repeat this pro- cedure until brake fluid only comes out of the hose, and no air bubbles. Pad Replacement L. When either pad is wom down to the stepped portion, replace both asa set. 2. Remove the front wheel. Remove the screw from the inner caliper half, tak- 789Vif Stopper Remover seoistn Removing the dust seal topper ASSEMBLY 1. Clean all parts in new brake fluid or isopropyl or ethyl alcohol, CAUTION: Do not use anything else to clean brake parts. 2. Smear the parts and tho inner walls of the master cylinder with brake fluid. 3. Check that the primary cup and check valve are installed facing the right dlirestion, and ure not misaligned during installation, Installing the relalalng ing. 4. Install the check valve, speing, pri mary cup, and piston. Fit the piston stop- per. 5. fostall a new retaining ring, ensur {ng thut itis properly seated in its groove, Install the dust seal and stoppee. 6. The remainder of the procedure is the reverse of disassembly. INSTALLATION 1, When installing the master cy’ der, note thatthe small projection on the clamp goes on the twist-grip side. 2. Tighten the upper bolt st” to 43-65 ft Ibs, then the lower bolt to the same torque. Tighten the banjo bolt to 18-24 ft bs and bleed the system. FRONT FORKS Removal 1. Remove the front wheel. Remove the fender. 2. On disc brake models, unbolt the caliper, supporting it out of the way. to avoid bending the pipe. 3. If disassembly. of the fork leg. is roguired, loosen the filler cap(s) at this point, 4. Loosen the uppor and lower triple ‘clamp pinch-bolts. 5. Pull out the fork Jeg twisting it as. necessary until it is free of the triple clamps. 6. Remove the remaining. fork leg. in the same manner. Kawasaki KZ 400/440 2. it co 2. Orig 2 Upper nota clamp pinche 4 tector 5. Seng em poche & Upper tiple comp Disassembly L. Remove the Biller eap and take out the fork spring. Pour the fork oil out, pumping tho slider to remove it all. 2. Pry up the dust seal from the top of the slider. 3. Insert the special piston holder to secure the cylinder and remove the allen bolt from the bottom of the slider. It mnay bo possible to remove the allen bolt with- ‘out the tool, but if the eylinder assembly bogins to tum as the bolt fs loosened, the tool will be accessary 4, Pull the fork slider from the fork tube. Remove the cylinder components from the top of the fork tube. 5. Remove the slider oil seal clip and pull out the oil seal. Remove the eylinder base from the slider. Inspection 1. Cheek spring free-length. Standard is 475 mm (11 in.). If either spring is compressed below 465 mm (18.3. in), both springs should be replaced to en- sure equal damping characteristics. 2. Check damper components for wear. Replace as necessary. Assembly 1. Use new fork slider oif seals. 2. Install the cylinder base in. the slider. 3, Press new oil seal into the slider after lubricating the seal’s outer side to facilitate assembly. Install the clip. 35 Citader hae 34 Wedwenber Front Fork Cylinder Hoey, Adi Allen Wrench Removing the slider allen bolt with the special to 4, Install the cylinder assembly in the fork tube inserting it so that the end pro- trudes from the bottom of the fork tube. 5. Oil the inner lips of the slider seal, fit the bottom of the cylinder into the cyl- inder baso, sliding the slider all the way onto the fork tube, 6, Use throad locking compound on the allen bolt and tighten st. 7. Install the slider dust seal. Refill the forks with the correct grade and quantity of oil Gate to Neer are utah spring (close coils toward the top of the fork) and the filler cap. Installation 1. Install the fork leg into the triple clamps until the edge of the top of the tube is fush with the upper triple clamp surface, 2. Tighten the upper triple clump pinch-bolt to 115-130 ft Ibs, and then the lower triple clamp pinch-bolt to 145-2200 8 lbs 791Kawasaki KZ 400/440 3, Tighten the filler eap to 18-22 ft Ibs, 4. Install the disc brake ealiper, if fit ted, tightening the mounting bolts to inder of the procedure is the reverse of removal. STEERING STEM ASSEMBLY Bearing Adjustment 1, To check bearing adjustin port the front wheel off the ground, the lower ends of the fork sliders and pusb and pull them back and forth. No movement should be noted. If there is, the bearings are too loose 2. Move the forks slowly from lock-to- lock. Movement should be smooth. sie Tent, und effortless. If any binding or un- even movement is felt, the bearings are cither too tightly adjusted, or they are worn, Ifthe steering feels uniformly still, the bearings are too tightly adjusted, It noise is noted, the bearings are damaged or some are missing, Adjusting the steering head bearings 3. With the fiont end off the ground, release the forks from a position several wees off the centerline of the motor- cycle. The forks should fall to either side when this is done, If they do not, the bearings are too tightly adjusted, the steering stem is bent, the races are ex ly worn, of some are missing, 4. To adjust the steering stem bear- ings, support the front wheel off the ‘ground, loosen the steering stem bolt and the pinch-bolt. Use the special wronch to tighten or loosen the steering stem lock- nut Gust under the upper triple clamp), until bearing action conforms to those 5, Tighten the steering stem nut to 40 filbs. Tighten the pinch-bolt to 11.5-13.0 fi lbs, Momentarily loosen the lower tri- ple clamp pinch-bolts, and then them to 14.5~22.0 ft Ibs, Recheck b adjustment. Tf proper adjust possible, the bearings and races may be ‘worn and in need of replacement. Removal 1. Drain the dise brake fluid, fappli- cable, 2, Remove the front wheel, Unbolt the master cylinder from the handlebar, disconnecting the brake line from the Joint on the lower triple clamp. 3. Remove the caliper and the lower brake hose. 4, Remove the front fender, Remove the forks. 792 % Removing the dice brake Jolut 5. Disconnect the tach cable from the tach, Disconnect the brake light switch deeds from the switch on dise brake mod- 6. Remove the dise brake hose joint from the lower triple clamp, 7. Take the headlight out of the shell. and disconnect the leads. Disconnect the turn signal and wirkny harness leads in the headlight shell. Remove the shell. 8. Hold th itrument panel, re: move the two securing nuts and remove the unit. 9. Remove the steering stem nut. Loasen the upper triple clamp pinch- bolt. Tap the underside of the triple clamp with a plastic mallet until the headlight brackets, complete with tun ignals, can be removed. Continue tap- ping the triple clamp until it ean be freed rains the steering stem and hung to one 10, Hold the steering stem assembly in place, and unserew and remove the steering stem locknut. When the nut is removed, lower the steering stem from the frame lug. Watch the balls in the lower race as they will fall owt as the stem is lowered, The upper balls are accessi- ble after removing the cap, Inspection 1, The bearing balls are standard % in, in size, and 19 are used in each race 2 Clean balls in solvent. Wipe old grease off races, Check the balls for rust, dents, pitting, and other damage. Check that the race surfaces are perfectly smooth and without dents, cracks, or rip- ean damaged, rep 3. IF any parts are damaged, replace bearings and races as a set. jemove nices from the frame by punching them out, Drive new races ight in, 5, Remove the steering stem rice, if necessary, with a hammer and punch. ‘The race is pressed onto the stem, Installation 1, Lubricate the races with bearing grease and press 19 balls into the frame race and the steering stem mace. Raise the stem carefully into position and sezew on the stem locknut. 2. The remainder of installation és the reverse of removal. When fitting the headlight brackets, note that the ring eap goes on the top and the damper, damper ring, and stem base cover are at the bot- tom. SHOCK ABSORBERS Removal 1, To remove one of the shock absorb- ers, remove the grab bar mounting nuts, loosen the top shock nuts, and remove the grub bar. Lifing up the sear wheel to ayaid damage to the shock bolt threads, remove the lower shock balt. Remove the capnut and washers and remove the shack absorber, 2. To remove the other shock, repeat the procedure. Inspection 1, Check for damping by compressing the shock absorber as a 4s possible, then releasing. If the shock springs quickly back to full length, the damping Unit is defective. Replace shocks in pars even if only 2. Shock absorber dampers are sealed units and cannot be disassembled. Installation 1. Reverse the removal procedure, Mounting point torque is 19.5-24.0 ft Ibs for both upper and lower mounts SWING ARM Inspection 1. Remove the rear wheel, sprocket as- sembly, and shock absorbers 2. Measure the distance between the top and bottom shock absorber mounts on hath sides. Tho two mensirements snust be identical, or the swing arm will have to be replaced 3. Check that the tear wheel mounting plates are parallel 4. Grusp the swing am and attempt to move it ftom side to side. Any noticeable side play indicates worn bushings which will need replacement. Removal 1. Proceed as above (Step 1). 2. Remove the swing arm pivot shaft nut and pull out the shaft. Remove the swing arm noting the dust cap on each ‘end which will come off 8. Remove the chain guard and brake unchor from the swing arm, Disassembly 1. Pall out the sleeve from each side of the swing ann. Remove the distance eol- 2. Measure bush inside diameter. Tap out the bush from each side, if worn, If bushes are removed, they must be re- placed with new ones. Inspection 1. Measure the outside diameter of the sleeves. Standard {s 21,979-22,000 min (0.8653-0,8661 in.). Serviceable limit is 31.98 mm (0.864 in). Roplace sleeves asa set of either is worn. 2. Check the inside diameter of each bush. Standard is 22.030-29.063 mm (0.8673-0.8686 in). Serviceable limit isKawasaki KZ 400/440 ose fog Swing erm 2 Nt 10 Asin bt 12, Chain edie Swing a asiownbly 29.26 mm (0,876 in.), Replace the bushes fs a set if either is worn, ‘Check pivot shaft run-out. Standard is 0.1 mm (0,004 in.) or less. Replace the shat if runout exceeds 02 mm (0,008. in). Assembly ss them into 2. Lubricate the sleeves with chassis grease before installation. Installation 1, Installation is the reverse of re- moval. Insert the pivot shaft into the Frame from the right. Ensure that the dust eaps are in place. Tighten the shaft nut to 72-94 ft Ibs, Check that the swing arm pivots freely, General ‘Torque Specifications” Come § s 8 1-180 10 240 BR 3054 1% 16 18 0 Fo. 5 6 4555 5 ita 10 1035 i 16 18 125165 20 18 ‘Unless otenvise noted Chassis Torque Specifications Wy Part ibn Ale nts front eat Front axle clamp mate Fork ler cape r Uppe le flrp pct Tipe de Sup peatreaey Steering stem at Sieerng ster nat la bol Hacichar clan bts Drs inabe anchors Sprocket mal Shock sores nants Swingarm pol shaft at Spokes Dise Brake Torque Specifications Dienounte Caliper shale Sar te Bee ipl Brak pipe pple Banjobds Hose ie Master jlinder clamp Brake lever Lever adjster loko Chassis Specifications aa ai Ane numont Trot 0.170.004, o3/0.008 a 05/0002 0270.08, ‘run brake lining thickness irene 520/019-0920 25/010 tor Sieens/oai-os4 33/010 ‘Drom hee nde diameter Trove ao rar 180.0-1803/7.085-7.098 1075/7.116 ake ping free enath ieee 7/8188 asia. rear 580/238 Brake cam diamctee ‘root osi-05s93 —14.81/0584 roan IG asiO.eeTH-O9eHT —— 1885/0.653 Carn Bae diameter ae 15.000-13027/05900-05918 1518/0505 = Too-stogr/oammsocos —— Irls/aere Rear ste! sprocket diameter airs 155/848 moat bayou as/ac30 Dil chain BOepin length airs/1250 s25/127 Dias abe die ‘thickness aox7.os/naT028 55/022 Eres tavasos o3/a0i2 88,10-$8.15/1.800-1 508 38.17/1.503 S97-3800/.405-1407 St0/La0a Dis ike master onder imide dlmrce ips/ossa3 tiston otside diameter 190/05 fp disetes Lisoosta Shag feelength sLoanl 480/189. Front fork ring feeeogts a 65/183 Swing arm “eve OD 21.970-22 000/0.8059-0801 1.95/80 bab ID 92030-02.063/0.8679-08080 23.20/0870 793