1.

Overview of Indian Garment Industry

Gone are the days when big department stores such as Wal-Mart, Sears and JC Penny used to stock Indian and Chinese garments. This is slowly changing. While the Chinese invasion is continuing, Bangladesh which has overtaken India is extending the lead and Vietnam is all set to overtake India in garment exports, once monopolized by India. Garment exports from India dropped 2.64 per cent to $ 10.64 billion in 2009-10 compared to $10.93 billion in the previous financial year, according to the latest data released by the Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC). The first two months of the current financial year have shown 5.23 per cent decrease in rupee terms, as compared to the previous year. Exports of apparel are highly price sensitive... Indian garments are overpriced due to high input costs and duty and they are being priced out by countries like Bangladesh and Vietnam. Bangladesh, which is only half the size of Maharashtra, today exports almost $13 billion apparel. This is roughly 20 per cent more than Indian garment exports. The unprecedented rise in price of raw materials (cotton & yarn) over the past few months and also general increase in all other costs due to hike in duty of petroleum products has made Indian garments uncompetitive in the world market. While our exports are falling, exports from low-cost countries such as Bangladesh, Vietnam and Cambodia continue to rise. The slowdown in the global economy has hit our garment exports. Exports to Europe which was facing a debt crisis have fallen. The US market is still fragile. The textile and garment sectors play an extremely significant role in India in terms specially of share in value added, foreign exchange earnings, and employment. With the impending dismantling of quotas in 2004 under mandate from the Agreement in Textile and Clothing of the WTO, the focus has clearly shifted to the future of the Indian textile and clothing exports.

2. Overview of Garment Manufacturing Technology

2.1 Introduction India being a garment exporting country, most of the garment manufacturing companies here work as exporters. Hence the orders they receive are from overseas buyers. The buyers send either a sample of the garment or a Tech Pack (Technical package) along with Spec Sheet(Specification Sheet) of the garment which contains flat sketch of the garment along with measurements of various parts, fabric details, trims details, stitching instructions, print and/or embroidery instructions and finishing instructions. Manufacturers work according to the tech pack and mass produce the garments.
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2.2 Flow process chart of Garment Manufacturing

Design Development or Tech Pack from buyer

Pattern Making

Sampling

Sample Approval

Fabric & Trims Sourcing

Spreading and Cutting

Sorting and Bundling

Sewing

Washing and Finishing

Pressing

Packaging and labelling

Exports or Domestic Market

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SAMPLING PACKAGE FROM BUYER PROTOTYPE SAMPLE SENT TO BUYER NOT APPROVED COMMENTS/APPROVAL FROM BUYER APPROVED

APPROVAL SAMPLE FIT/SIZE SET SAMPLE INITIAL ORDER SALESMEN SAMPLES RE-ORDER FROM BUYER PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLE

PRODUCTION QTY (ON RECEIPT OF PP SAMPLE APPROVAL)

GOODS EXPORT FROM DOMESTIC

GOODS RECEIVED ON IMPORTER OFFICE

BUYER OFFICE

a. Design Development or Tech pack received from buyer The tech pack or sampling package is received from the buyer or the design development team in case of a domestic manufacturer. According to the design, prototype (a sample resembling the actual sample sent by the buyer, not necessarily on the same fabric) is developed by the sampling department. The Fabric Swatches are attached to the Spec. sheet provided by the buyer and the Component Details like accessories, trims, print, color, embroidery, embellishments are given.
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In case of a designing team, a design is developed by the designer after studying the fashion forecasts of the seasons to come in the future. b. Pattern Making Design and related product development is an important focus area for a companys growth. Their strategy is to focus on the development of new designs and samples for their fabrics and garments. This activity is supported by their in-house design studio which is equipped with design capabilities including software like CAD/CAM, thus enabling them to successfully convert their designs into fabrics and samples into final products. Improved ability to create samples helps the customers in placing orders well in advance of a particular season. They plan to strengthen our capabilities in designing by continuously upgrading our design studios both in terms of human resources and technology. They plan to tap the hi-end readymade garment segment which will help us in maintaining higher sales realization for their final products. A Pattern is the replica of a garment. It consists of the parts which are required for the assembly of a garment. For example, a shirt will have patterns for Left front, right front, yoke, back, sleeves, cuffs and collars. A pattern is made according to a size chart which is different for different countries for example, S, M, L, XL, XXL or Size 8, 10, 12, 14, 16. Then seam allowances are added to the pattern. Ease is also added at the time of pattern making. Some companies also add Fabric shrinkage allowance to the pattern. Even Production gathering allowance can be added to a pattern. The fit of the garment depends on the correctness of the patterns. The patterns for production are made by pattern masters and the CAD system is also used for making and grading the patterns. From the computer markers, refinements are made manually to optimize the fabric consumption and then duplicate markers are made. The software used for Pattern Grading are Gerber, Lectra, Optitex, Tukatech etc. The patterns may also be made manually and graded on. A digitizer and a plotter may be used along with the software for input and output. Manually made patterns were scanned through the digitizer onto the software which are then graded and then printed through the plotter. After the patterns have been prepared, a virtual arrangement of patterns is done exactly resembling the arrangement on the fabric which is called here marker planning. A Marker is the top ply of a fabric which contains the marked patterns by some marking method(tailors chalk, soap, printed etc.) Although most of the times, the marker planning is provided by the buyers but sometimes with rearrangement of the patterns, more marker efficiency is achieved subject to approval from the buyer.
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An example of a marker planning done by a CAD system is shown below.

c. Sampling Specification sheets received from the buyer show the Sample Requisition and the Sample Description. The Fabric Swatches are attached to the Spec. sheet and the Component Details like accessories, trims, print, color, embroidery, embellishments are given. A sample is made according to the specifications for the placed order and when the buyer approves the Sample, bulk production starts for the order. The Sample Approval Form contains details of general appearance, whether the sample has been accepted or rejected, date and signature of the merchandiser. In the initial stages of the order, the design and sampling department continuously interacts with the buyers till the sample is approved. In the dedicated sampling unit, garment samples are made, remade, design changes are incorporated till the customer finally approves the garment sample. The stages of sampling followed for the fulfillment of buyers requirement are as follows: Proto Sample Salesman Sample Test Sample Photo-shoot Sample
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Fit/Size Set Sample Pre-production Sample Production Sample

d. Sample Approval The samples are prepared for approval from the buyer. The buyer either accepts or rejects the sample or he may give comments on the sample which need to be corrected. One such comment is given as follows: Style No. 80646001 Style Description: Mens Long Sleeve Shirt Comment Date: 28.07.2011 a. b. c. d. e. f. g. h. i. j. k. l. m. n. All labels are missing on your sample. Snap button on front is also missing on your sample. Puckering at collar attaching Cuff attaching found uneven & poorly attached Poor pocket shape at curves Roping at bottom hem in collar white Loose thread stitch at front placket bottom Front placket is hiking at bottom Puckering at armhole. Topstitch to be avoided in bulk Sleeve placket length found uneven in Olive color Uneven collar point in your sample color Brown Shade variations to be avoided in solid colors or bulk Measurement at chest: 2-2.5 cm, waist: 1.5 cm. sleeve: 1 cm. cuff: 0.5 cm. Pocket position found uneven in your entire sample

Thus the sampling department has to rework on the samples, if the sample has got comments. If the manufacturer is unable to make perfect samples, it may result in rejection and cancellation of the order.

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e. Fabric & Trims Sourcing Fabric & Trims sourcing is the job of fabric sourcing department and a separate trims sourcing department. First, the consumption of Fabric is worked out then the requirement is calculated. The requisition is sent to the concerned supplier with the fabric sample. The supplier presents the maximum number of swatches matching the required design and color. It is analyzed and if it matches, it is passed. The fabric is sourced at the time of sampling itself. The strategies for the local sourcing are to get the best quality at a comparative price while also maintaining the quality and to satisfy the buyers requirements. The price will also depend on the buyers Selling price. Then the fabric is inspected for quality and shade. A visual inspection gives and overall idea of the quality of the fabric, for colorfastness and strength (Bursting, Tearing and Tensile strength), it is tested in testing labs. A 4-point/10-point Grade System is followed for testing the quality. When the fabric is in-house, it undergoes mainly two tests, namely Shrinkage Test & Color Fastness. While other fabric defects are also taken care of with the help of fabric checking machine where visual inspection of the fabric is done and defective parts are marked with stickers. The following procedure may be commonly followed for recording the fabric shrinkage: Fabric check 100% shrinkage Cut 60cm fabric and should be mark 50cm in both warp and weft properly Do single needle stitches for all sides Use metal scale for marking Mention the roll no. properly Check the type of wash Check the time of wash Check the wash standard of sealer
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Send washed blanket (Approved by merchant) Along with sample for wash standard Explain the washing person clearly to wash as per bulk wash After blanket wash one iron (if required) as per garment standard Check carefully (give importance for 1mm. also) Calculate shrinkage and discuss with merchandiser Keep the rolls shrinkage wise and issue to cutting with paper shrinkage identification sticker Thus the fabric rolls are sorted shrinkage wise and labeled as A, B, C, D, E, F etc. When patterns are made for such fabrics which are going to shrink after washing, extra allowance is given to the patterns in both warp and weft direction. Otherwise Shrinkage Nil is written on the patterns i.e. no allowance is given for shrinkage. Fabric Inspection Machine For identifying the fabric defects, a continuous fabric inspection machine is used. It is an economical inspection machine, which is completely made of Mild Steel with digital control panel. The specially designed fabric roll stand is provided to load the fabric to be checked. The bottom illumination unit is covered with milky white acrylic, which acts as a viewing area. The top illumination unit is incorporated for proper inspection. Specially designed tray is provided to keep loose fabric for inspection. The exclusive feature of the machine is that it can be operated by foot switch. A mechanical length counter is provided to measure the length of fabric inspected. The control panel is equipped with speed regulator, Forward & Reverse movement switch.

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Details of the Main Unit of a Fabric Inspection Machine

1. Top illumination Unit. 2. Driven Roller. 3. Fabric rolling rod. 4. Fabric Guide Roll. 5. Twin Wheeled Counter (Fabric Length Counter). 6. Fabric Tension Device. 7. Base Unit Frame. 8. Bottom Roller Roll Stand. 9. Foot Switch. 10. Control Panel 11. Viewing Area. 12. Plastic Pipe. (Having steel pipe inside) to roll the fabric.
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The fabric defects which may be identified are as follows: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Starting Marks Snarls Broken End Broken Pick Weft Crack Printing Variation Pattern Mistake Starting Pick Breakage 10. Oil Stains 11. Color Stains 12. Temple Mark 13. Dobby 14. Double Pick 15. Loose Wefts 16. Water Draping 17. Water mark 18. Stitches

Color Matching Cabinet For identifying the difference in shade of the fabric from the same fabric roll, a color matching cabinet was used. For printed fabrics, sometimes, the shade from the face side is not clearly identifiable so the shade was matched from the back side of the fabric. The following lighting standards are used according to the instruction of the buyer: D 65 - Artificial daylight - 2 Nos. TL 84 Light - Point of Sale - 1 No. TFL Tubular Filament Light 1 No. UVB Light - Ultra Violet Blue- 1 No. CWF Light - Cool White Florescent - 1 No. After the shade of the fabric is differentiated, it is sorted shade wise and marked as A, B, C, D, E, F and so on. Trims Sourcing To source the trims is the responsibility of a separate trims sourcing department. Buttons, zippers, linings, snaps, fusing, sewing thread, embroidery thread come under this category. They are also sourced as per the requirement of the buyer.

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f. Spreading and Cutting Spreading Spreading and Marker Making parameters are basically the important functions and check points need to be considered during spreading and marker making process in cutting room. The spreading is done manually with the help of sticks to straighten the plies and an edge cutter is used to match the edges. The table used for spreading is approximately 6 8 m. long and its width is between 1.6 2.0 m. the table height varies between 35 40. The table tops are generally made of sun mica or any other smooth surface. Papers are fixed before spreading the fabric to avoid slippage during cutting. Spreading Parameters 1. Spreading table surface should be smooth enough to facilitate movement of cutting machine 2. Cutting table should have height adjustments so that you can adjust the table modules according to slope in the floor. 3. Before spreading fabric rolls should be segregated based on the colour shade and fabric width 4. Based on the fabric classification, decide the spreading mode. 5. Based on the fabric type, marker length and end cutting equipment, you have to determine the end loss, which will determine the lay length. Total ply length is marked on the table before start of laying. 6. Fabric ply tension has to be correct, it should neither be too tight nor too loose. 7. Fabric should be correctly checked before it come on the spreading table. 8. Spreading height should be compatible to the cutting machine blade. 9. Ensure that the layer ends are as even as possible. 10. In between different rolls put indication flag to identify different rolls. 11. Lay lot planning to optimize cutting cost 12. For dimensionally unstable flimsy fabrics a layer of marker paper should be laid before putting the first ply. During laying the first ply, either all the sides or some portions are stuck to the table using tapes so that the first layer does not slip. During cutting the tapes are taken out. 13. Always one side of the selvage has to be aligned (all selvages have to be one or top of each other)
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14. End pieces should be marked with lay no. and stored for changing any rejected component of the garment in subsequent process. 15. Use paper in between plies at regular intervals to reduce interply slippage 16. Bigger the roll length lesser the wastage. While using spreading machine bigger the roll length, lesser the machine idle time. 17. While using splicing technique, please ensure that number of plies at both end of the lay is equal. 18. For horizontal stripe in knitted fabric open width marker making should be preferred. 19. For fabrics with high twisted yarn tearing is preferred than end cutting during laying. The spreading can be done manually or with the help of an automatic spreader. Automatic spreaders are used for fast and even spreading of the fabric.

Advantages: The automatic spreader provides predictable, tension-free spreading of fabric. Provides accurate and consistent spread length. Accurately aligns fabric edges so that parts can be nested closer to the beginning, end and edges of the spread, eliminating end loss and optimizing material utilization. Fabric roll cradle feed system tilts automatically for easy material loading and unloading. Supports most common spreading modes. Capable of spreading woven or knit materials from either rolls or folded packs.

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Cutting
The objective of cutting The objective of cutting is to separate fabric parts as replicas of the pattern pieces in the marker plan. In achieving this objective, certain requirements must be fulfilled: Precision of cut Garments cannot be assembled satisfactorily, and they may not fit the body correctly, if they have not been cut accurately to the pattern shape. The ease with which accuracy is achieved depends on the method of cutting employed and in some cases on the marker planning and marker making.

For precision cutting of parts like cuffs and collars 1. Place the required component bunch on the band knife table and remove the clips if put. 2. Check the cad marker for style and size details. 3. Place the respective pattern as per the cad marker over the bunch, as per the line balancing and matching requirements. 4. Fix the pattern to the bunch using the metal clamps. 5. Cut the component along the pattern. 6. Remove the metal clamp and pattern.

Clean edges The raw edge of the fabric should not show fraying or snagging. Such effects come from an imperfectly sharpened knife. It is possible for the knife blade to heat up sufficiently to damage the fabric. Support of the lay The cutting system must provide the means not only to support the fabric but also to allow the blade of a cutting machine to penetrate the lowest ply of a spread and sewer all the fibers. Consistent cutting The cutting system will cut lays up to a specified height, but this may need to be reduced as a response to deteriorating cutting quality. There may be mechanical or human reasons.
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To make fabric lay of required marker length ready for cut. 1. Ensure all rolls have the roll no and if required are sorted shade wise 2. Verifying correctness of marker and then spread the lay paper equal to marker length and then stable it 3. Spread the fabric according to marker length and cut- off. 4. When next roll starts place lay paper above ply. (Done when roll to roll shade variation other wise not) 5. After required quantity is laid spread the CAD/ Manual marker over the lay and pin the same. Cutting Equipments: 1. Hand shears Hand shears can be used to cut from single or double ply up to a maximum of 10 plies. The lower blade of the shears passes under the plies but the subsequent distortion of fabric is only temporary and accuracy can be achieved with practice. Left-handed shears are also available for left-handed persons. The disadvantage of this method lies in the time it consumes and the consequent high labor cost but it is appropriate for made-tomeasure garments. 2. Straight Knife cutting machine The line of straight knife machines cut denim or silk, cotton or knits, sailcloth or synthetics, fiberglass and technical textiles, easily and without effort. Most cutting rooms which have sufficient garments in bulk but not such as to justify the use of computer-controlled cutters will have straight knives. The straight knife consists of a base plate, on which four rollers are fitted which can glide easily on the glazed paper fixed on the base of the cutting table below the bottom ply. They require operator power as well as machine power to cut the lay. The operator can move the machine with the help of the handle provided below the motor while the motor gives reciprocating action to the blade and drives the knife through the lay.
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A low profile, polished, streamlined base plate is designed to reduce friction and distortion in the lay regardless of the number of plies. They are designed to provide optimal performance whether cutting intricate jobs with small radius cuts or patterns that have long, clean cuts. Some exclusive Micro Fog machines ensure maximum heat reduction for cutting highly fusible materials. The Micro Fog device sends a mist of coolant / lubricant behind the knife and out through a specially slotted knife-slide to penetrate every layer or material and to eliminate the conditions that cause fusing. The Micro Fog straight knife requires 90-120 psi (6.2-8.3 bars) compressed air. Some machines have heat reducing features (short stroke and wave blade that reduce blade contact by 80%). Some have special gravity feed moistening attachment to eliminate fusing. Coolant flow exactly metered to achieve the desired degree of lubrication and cooling required. The blades of the straight knife are made of carbon steel, coated with Teflon, have wavy edges, rounded or angled tip. The blade height varies from 4 inches to 13 inches. Their stroke varies from 1 inch to 1 inch. There is a sharpening mechanism for blades which uses either an emery belt or emery stone for sharpening. Their weight is in the range of 12-18 kgs. The power of the machine varies from model to model from 0.55 hp to 1.25 hp. The greater the blade movement, the faster the operator can cut the fabric and move the machine through the lay rapidly. There are some straight knives with automated arm support. It has a travelling suspension system which supports the knife from above which means the heavy base plate and rollers are replaced by a small, flat base. The drive trolley of the support arm moves automatically along rails on the side of the table. These systems enable a much higher degree of cutting accuracy than unsupported straight knives. 3. Round Knife Round knife machines are ideally suited for cutting large radius curves, straight lines and are applicable for a wide range of difficult to cut materials. The smallest model, provides lightweight maneuverability with power to cut low lays of wool, cotton, silk, synthetics,
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and technical textiles. The elements of round knife are same as straight knife, the only difference in blade which is octagonal or circular here which may have a diameter between 2 to 8 inches. The Vertical Cutting Stroke Velocity (VCSV) of round knife can be compared with straight knives. The Heavy Duty machine offers a heavy duty motor to provide increased torque and blade speed making it ideal for most general purpose cutting of canvas, burlap, cotton, cotton batting, woolens, and knits. The Heavy Duty and Super Duty round knife machines can easily cut through high durometer rubber as well as plastic sheeting and dense fabrics that require a more powerful motor and greater height capacity. Each of these special Cardinal round knife machines may be supplied with a high speed, low speed, or dual speed motor for the broadest range of applications. Both models may be fitted with an optional Plastic Master lubricator. The blades of the round knife are made of carbon steel, Teflon coated, slotted and grooved. The speed of the motor varies from 1500 rpm to 3000 rpm while they consume a power between 0.20 hp to 1.25 hp. The sharpener stone grits are 120 heavy, 150 medium or 220 fine. The blade size and the respective cutting capacity can be understood with the help of the following table: Blade Size 4 inch 5.25 inch 6 inch Their weight varies from 7 kgs. to 16 kgs. 4. Band Knife A band knife machine comprises a series of three or more pulleys, powered by an electric motor, with a continuously rotating steel blade mounted on them. One edge of the blade is sharpened. The blade of the band knife passes through a slot in the table in a fixed position and the section of the lay to be cut is moved past it. The material is moved onto the blade instead of the blade moved onto the material. Cutting Capacity 2.125 inch 3.125 inch 3.25 inch

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Band knives are used when a higher standard of cutting accuracy is required. Space must be left around garment parts when planning the marker so that they can be sectioned out using a straight knife and then cut exactly using the band knife. When small parts such as cuffs, collars and pockets are to be cut, a template of metal or fibre in the shape of the pattern piece may be clamped to the section of lay on top of the marker which is then drawn past the band knife, cutting exactly along the hard edge. A band knife workplace may be so arranged that the operator either pushes or pulls the section of lay towards the knife. The latter is most common in Britain. The band knife runs absolutely vibration free and delivers very good cutting quality. Adjustable band-knife speed by frequency control allows optimal adaption of the band knife speed to the materials and ply height being cut, while operating at a very low noise level. The band knife has an air-floatation table which has small rollers placed onto it which give ease of movement to the material being cut and also suck the material slightly with high pressure to achieve minimum distortion while cutting.

The quality and quantity of cutting with a band-knife machine depends directly upon the operator stress level. Here are some of its highlights: - Vibration free - Silent operation through optimal noise reduction - Outstanding cutting performance through constant knife sharpness by precision sharpening
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device - Excellent cutting quality - Highest reliability - Easy handling of heavy ply stacks through air cushion table Some features: Automatically set band knife guard. Automatic band knife tension Warning light indicates band knife running. Automatic safety stop for band knife breakage. All panels are safety switch protected. Dove-tail guided band knife sharpening unit. Band knife blade made of high grade steel. Upper and lower guide bearings. Casters. *For very soft materials, max. cutting height (table-shield) is 28 cm (11). Thus band knives are used more in menswear than in womenswear and are often used to cut large garment parts such as large panels of jackets and coats. As seen in the above picture, it has an optional air blowing table with 6 cm wood made air chamber and 160 valves. Turbine pressure is 1/3 CV. Adjustable speed from 400 to 2000 rpm, allows cutting all types of fabrics. Knife wheels diameter 39 cm, 3 cm wide. It gives stronger contact between wheel-blade, having plus stability and strength while cutting process, and avoiding the slippery surface if working with silicon. It has Built-in sharpener visible for the operator. 5. Rotary Shears or Small Round Knives They are same as round knife machines but the lightweight rotary shears are the best solution for cutting intricate markers, one-of-a-kind patterns, samples, reworks, and plastic or rubber sheeting. Offering the ultimate in maneuverability, rotary shears are the answer for short run cutting jobs common in the industry.

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Small round knife machines set the standard for the cutting industry by providing agility, power, and versatility. Each small round knife has a low profile baseplate which allows for virtually no distortion when cutting through low lays, or single thickness, of material. 2 (5.72 cm) round blade for general use or hexagon blade for sheer or difficult to cut cloth. Cutting capacity is 25% greater than competitive models. Built-in sharpener. Ergonomically designed Three different base plates and cutting tips can be selected: - Stabilizer Shoe: the standard foot attachment, a utility feature that lends itself well to all cutting and slitting operations. - Ball Tip: best when slitting tubular knits or other loosely woven materials. - Baseplate: a small baseplate fitted with needle rollers to create a lightweight, freestanding rotary shear; provides the greatest degree of accuracy from top to bottom ply. 6. End Cutters End cutters are used to cut the end of every lay spread on the table for starting a new end of the fabric. They provide fast and perfectly straight end cutting as a requirement of marker planning. They may have features like: They give superior balance and effortless cutting features: Perma-Field Motor for more cutting torque with less heat build-up. Precision engineered profile and interior reinforcing ribs keeps track rigid even at lengths over 72. Clamping bracket allows the machine to be attached to any type of cutting table in seconds.

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 Standard 40 (1.02m) length handle for use on tables up to 72 (1.83m) wide, with longer handles available. Other handle options include a push handle, a dual push/pull handle for extremely wide cuts requiring more than one operator, and a swivel handle for limited space applications. Patented Uni-Safe Terminal Block and Attachment Plug allows the operator to engage the power supply to the cutter with one hand. Some computerized end cutters also provide: Cutting head traverses via servo-controlled gear motor. Simplified controls for ease of operator interface. Ply counter and variable traverse speed control. 4 (10.2 cm) round blade with up to 1- (3.20 cm) cutting capacity. Remote control. Compression pressure foot ensures a clean cut for both heavy and soft materials. 7. Cloth Drills The cloth drill marker can drill holes through various layers of fabric indicating button holes, darts, pockets, and other attachment points. This is perfect for use on loosely knit, bulky, or quilted spreads, where a mark is needed, but where a burn mark would be unnecessary. On many fabrics, the drill is used cold and the hole remains visible until the sewing operator comes to use it. On looser weave fabrics, where the hole may be close up, a hot drill is used. The cold drill machine features may be as follows: Telescoping drive shaft and powerful AC motor for dependability and long service. Drill is available in three sizes, numerous hole diameters, and drill types. Decreased distortion, even on bulky and quilted spreads, provided by the large square baseplate.
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A spirit level to ensure that the base plate is horizontal and hence the drill vertical. The Hot Cloth drill leaves identifiable marks on loosely woven or knit fabrics, where an ordinary drill mark would not be detected. The cloth drill fuses tightly woven synthetic materials, throughout the lay, thereby eliminating distortion in the marker. Along with the following additional features: Telescoping drive shaft with a powerful AC motor for dependability and long service life. Drill available in three sizes, with numerous hole diameters, and drill types. A hypodermic drill may also be used which leaves a small deposit on each ply of fabric. The drill diameter can be from 1.19 mm to 9.52 mm. The drilling capacity can be from 6 inch to 11.5 inch. The drill tips are available as diamond point or taper point with open end awl or closed awl. 8. Thread markers It provides a substitute method of short-term marking when a permanent mark is not desired, and for bundling cut pieces. Utilizing a needle, a thread is pulled through the material which allows the operator to determine where to place pleats, darts, buttons, or pockets. The Threadmarker can also be used to bundle continuous toweling or bundles of clothes by binding them with thread prior to washing. Ensures matched pairs by eliminating loose cut patterns of varying sizes. Secures toweling, by preventing separation and tangling during the laundering process. Marking capacity of 6 (15.2 cm) with simple looper mechanism for ease of operation. 9. Automatic Cutters (Computer-controlled cutting machines) The information stored in the computer to drive a cutting knife is mentioned. This method provides the rnost accurate possible cutting, at high speed, and to keep the larger systems fully occupied they are used frequently in a central cutting facility that supplies a number of separate sewing factories.

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Increasingly, though, smaller, cheaper systems are being developed which are suitable for companies wanting to cut lower lays of smaller quantities of garments and these are appropriate for a single-factory operation. The main elements of a computer-controlled cutting system are as shown in the above Figure. A typical computer cutting system has a table with a cutting surface consisting of nylon bristles, which support the fabric lays but are flexible enough to permit penetration and movement of the knife blade which is supported only at the top. The bristles also allow the passage of air through the table to create a vacuum, reducing the height of the lay and holding it in place. The carriage supporting the cutting head has two synchronized servo-motors which drive it on tracks on the edges of the table. A third servo-motor positions the cutting head on a beam across the width of this carriage. These two movements are co-ordinated to give a knife position at any point on the table. The cutting head contains a knife, automatic sharpener and a further servo-motor which rotates the knife to position it at a tangent to the line of cut on curves. A further facility controls the deflection of the knife which inevitably occurs on curves by adjusting the angle to equalize the pressure on each side of the blade. This ensures accurate cutting through all layers. A sheet of airtight polyethylene covers the top of the lay which assists the creation of a vacuum and allows significant compression of the lay. A control cabinet houses the computer and the electrical components required to drive the cutter, its carriage and the
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vacuum motor. Since the computer-controlled knife cuts according to instructions from the computer rather than by following a pattern line drawn on a marker, it is possible, as indicated previously, to dispense with the use of fully plotted paper markers and either just plot the information necessary for bundling on the marker, or eliminate the marker completely and just label the garment parts that are being cut. 10. Die cutting In contrast to the fast-moving blades used in the methods of cutting previously described, die cutting involves pressing a rigid blade through the lay of fabric. The die (called a clicker in the shoe industry) is a knife in the shape of a pattern periphery, including notches. One or more tie bars secure its stability. Free standing dies generally fall into two categories. They can be made of strip steel, manufactured by bending the strip to the shape required and welding the joint. These cannot be sharpened and must be replaced when worn. Alternatively, they can be heavier gauge, forged dies that can be re-sharpened but which are about five times the price of strip steel. The position of the tie bars determines the depth of cut, which is generally greater with forged dies. 11. Laser Cutting A laser produces a beam of light that can be focused into a very small spot (0.25 mm), producing a very high energy density and a rapid, localized increase in temperature. Cutting takes place by burning, melting and vaporization. A laser beam does not become blunt and need renewing, but it does suffer from limited depth of focus. This limits the depth of fabric it can cut and the best results are achieved when cutting single plies. There is also a risk with thermoplastic fibres that the edges may fuse together. The system includes a stationary gas laser, a cutting head carrying a system of mirrors which reflect the laser beam to the cutting line, a computer which operates the entire system, and a means of removing cut parts from the conveyor carrying the single ply of fabric. A practical limitation on the speed of cutting is the speed of movement of the carriage bearing the mirrors. Lasers are not common for cutting garments, but they have been used successfully in home furnishings and in the cutting of sails (where edge fusing is actually desirable). 12. Plasma cutting Plasma cutting was originally developed to satisfy a demand for high quality cutting on stainless steels and aluminium, but it can also be used to cut textile materials. Cutting is achieved by means of a high velocity jet of high temperature ionized gas (argon). This method has the potential to become the faster cutter of single plies, but there are engineering and cost issues, and the method is affected by the same quality of cut problems as was noted for laser cutting.

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13. Water jet cutting A very high velocity, small diameter stream of water is created by applying high pressure water to a nozzle. The high pressure jet acts as a solid tool when it encounters the material to be cut, tearing the fibres on impact. As the jet penetrates successive plies in a spread, the momentum decreases and cutting ability is reduced. The jet spreads out and the cut is wider and rougher at the bottom of the spread. Here the jet of water is normally caught and drained away. There is a danger of wet edges, water spotting and inconsistent cutting quality. The water used must be filtered and de-ionized. 14. Ultrasonic cutting More recently developed are cutting systems that use an ultrasonically driven knife blade. Vibration frequencies in the 20 kHz range produce 1/20mm movement in the blade, small enough to remove the need for a bristle base to the cutting table. Disposable knife blades save sharpening time and last for 10 to 14 days. Single ply and very low lays can be cut and low vacuum only is needed. A cutting chart is prepared as follows to cut the pattern of different sizes as per the order quantity: Size: EXTRA 7% To Cut M 60 4 64 L 105 7 112 XL 100 7 107 XXL 52 4 56 XLT 33 2 35 TOTAL 350 25 375

Cutting Section (Process flow chart) Receipt of sample, file, pattern and all the parts, fabric fusing and washing shrinkage

Pre-production meeting Then set the standards as discussed

Plan the cutting mocks and tech packs P. O. book keeping

Receipt Abhishek Sinha Written by: of sample, file, pattern and all the parts, fabric fusing and washing shrinkage 24 Page

To get O.K. marker report to check for all panels, prepare mini garment panel display

Make pilot run, lay the fabric as per standard consumption, and relax the lay

Cut parts to be relayed in separate area, do the numbering of the panels

Remove the parts, curing it against the set standards

Check the panels 100 %, if passed, processed or recut from matching or the same roll end bits

Make the bundle and forward it to the sewing line

As pilot run pass report of the garment received. Proceed on bulk cutting as per plan g. Sorting and Bundling To keep a track that all the correct parts are attached to the correct size garment, after cutting, all parts are stickered or otherwise marked with a number code. These are done with a stickering gun. During the production, various sub-assemblies need to be brought together in the assembly stage. For example, if a size 40 sleeve is by mistake attached to a size 42 shirt body, then at least two more pieces should be defective. So keeping track is important. In some factories the parts need to be tied into bundles - usually 10 pieces. These bundles are numbered and this keeps track of material movement through the sewing production line. Many units are employing a bar-code system of fixing bar codes on the bundle tags and infra-red bar code readers read these at various stages.
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For example: Lets take the example of a shirt, it has various parts like, Collar, Yoke, Right & Left Front, Back, Right & Left Sleeve, Pocket. These parts are cut out from the layers of fabric. These parts are then split into bundles of predetermined size. These bundles require to be tagged(Group Tag). Lets say using 3 rolls of fabric 100 plies have been layed. If we mark the shape of pocket on the top most layers, cut the pocket out of the lay following the mark, then we get 100pieces of pocket. This 100 pieces of pocket is split into bundles of (Lets Say) 10 pieces, hence the bundle size is 10. These bundles need to be tagged. Similarly the other parts of the garment are marked, cut, numbered, sorted and bundled. Now lets try to mock a numbering system here. If Order No - 1111, Lot No - 1, Shade No - 2, Cut/Lay No - 4, Size No - 2, Bundle No - 10, Piece No 6. The Bundle Number (Tag Number) should be 1111-01-02-04-02-10. The Pieces Number will be 1111-01-02-04-02-10 Range (1 10). So in case of Shirt, There will be a collar bundle, Yoke bundle, Right & Left front bundle, Right & Left sleeve, Pocket Bundle all bearing the same bundle number 1111-01-02-04-02-10 consisting of pieces again bearing the piece number 1111-01-02-04-02-10 Range (1 10). Such Bundles are then loaded into trolleys and shifted to sewing lines. h. Sewing The department is responsible for stitching different parts of garment together. The process takes place in the assembly line system. The assembly line system is the set of many different stitching machines each for a specific purpose. These machines are arranged in an orderly fashion depending on how different parts of garment should be attached. Assembly line method is used for large production. Production Planning and Control decides on the article or style to be produced with quantity. The stitching department makes necessary production planning i.e. time line in accordance with each article. The stitching process is the most time consuming and labour intensive process in the entire garment production. The planning is done weekly. After the fabric is received from the cutting section, the operators are given a bundle of parts which they have to assemble. The process is called Loading. The collars and cuffs are made in a separate section whereas each operator ends up making the whole garment. They are called as Collar Module & Cuff Module. Each sewing line has a group of 20-40 machines depending on the type and style of a garment and there are 2-12 or even more sewing lines numbered A to Z depending on the order quantity and production capacity of the plant. Each sewing line has a supervisor who is the overall incharge of the proper working and quality of the line. At the end of every sewing line, a table is kept where initial quality checking is done.

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Production planning: Production planning may be defined as the technique of foreseeing every step in a long series of separate operations, each step to be taken at the right time and in the right place and each operation to be performed in maximum efficiency. It helps entrepreneur to work out the quantity of material manpower, machine and money requires for producing predetermined level of output in given period of time. i. Washing Washing is done for some of the garments which depend on the buyers requirements of the finished product, how the finished product should look and feel like. About 100 150 garments are washed in one lot and various types of washes are given as given in the following table. After washing of the garments, hydro-extractors are used to take the excess water in the garment and then driers are used to dry the washed garments. The various types of washes that may be given in this unit are as follows: Type of wash Softener Wash Silicon softener wash Enzyme Wash Leather Wash Stone Wash Acid Wash Caustic Wash Hypo Wash Temperature Cold (room temp.) Cold (room temp.) 550C 600C 600C - 700C 600C - 700C 500C 600C - 800C Effect Softens the garment Softens the garment (max) Brushes out puckering of top stitches Stiffens the garment Fades the garment Fades the garment (max) Fades the garment (min) Fades the garment evenly

Garments which do not require washing are directly sent to the pressing or finishing section. j. Finishing and Packaging Department: This is final stage before the garment is ready to be shipped. As the garment is already finished, it requires a series of quality checks. The garment goes through the quality checks like color test, washing test, stitching test etc. After which it is steam pressed, labeled, packed into garment bags and finally, put into the cartons. Once all cartons are packed and labeled, external quality check takes place and goods are shipped. The PPC department gives the details of the Purchase Order to be finished, packed and dispatched. The following jobs are done before the final shipment: 1. Thread Trimming: The loose threads or excess threads are trimmed which remain on the garment even after coming from the trimming department.
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2. Quality Control: They check the final look of the garment by measuring whether the plackets are equal, the cuffs are of equal width or not and whether there are any stains on the garment etc. 3. Button Attaching: Buttons are attached after washing. Different types of button attaching machines like kaja button etc. are used for the purpose. 4. Pressing: Steam irons are used for pressing the garments. Steam ironing tables are used and the area of the garment to be pressed depends on the buyers specifications. 5. Spotting: The stains are removed using a stain removing gun which uses white petrol for scattering the stains. 6. Final Quality Controller: This is the last stage of quality checking. If the garment fails at this stage in quality, it is rejected. 7. Folding: Air operated shirt folding tables are used which require minimum handling of the garment. 8. Packing: The garments are first packed into polybags, pins, clips etc. are used for keeping the fold of the garment and then the packed garments are placed inside cartons with the sizes required by the buyer. Finishing Process: 1. The finished garment from sewing section is received here.

2. Extra left over threads on the garments and at the joints after sewing is trimmed here. This process is called TRIMMING. 3. These Garments are inspected for manufacturing defects. This process is called Checking. 4. The garments are pressed on pressing tables to set the seams straight and to give good presentation to the garment. This process is called PRESSING. 5. The pressed garments are then examined thoroughly for quality and compliance with the specifications and the requirement of the customer. This Process is called INSPECTION. 6. There are two different forms of inspection usually conducted on the consignment.

7. First inspection is conducted by a certified inspector who works for the manufacturing company. In other words an Internal Inspector. This may or may not follow AQL (Acceptable Quality level) system of inspection.
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8. Second inspection is conducted by representative of the buying agency. This inspection will be conducted based AQL (Acceptable Quality level) system. 9. The tag will remain intact on the garment through out all the above explained processes.

10. At any of the inspection or checking points if any quality issues are observed within the garment, a special ID tag is tagged to the garment and is scanned and then sent back to rework. If there are some irreparable problems with in the garment, then a different ID is assigned to it and scanned and co-related to its original piece number in the database and needs to be flagged off as defective, so that even by mistake it doesnt find its way in to the consignment. k. Shipment of Garments: The following information is generally found on the cartons to be packaged and shipped. Buyer Order No. : 1. Name of the buyer/brand 2. Destination 3. Description of style 4. Type 5. Order No. 6. Order Quantity 7. Shipping Quantity 8. Sizes 9. Category 10. Rate 11. Late Shipment 12. Mode of Shipment 13. Actual Date of Shipment 14. Freight Accrued 15. Packing Details 16. Gross Wt./Nett Wt. 17. Carton Dimension 18. Nomination
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: : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :

XYZ Germany Summer 2012 Woven/Knit 1872-06 20298 pcs. 550 pcs. XS/S/M/L/XL/XXL Packed (FOB/C&F/CIF) Yes/No By Sea/Air 22.08.2012 $43.8 Flat packed 12 lbs. 230x210x120 mm. None
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19. Commission % to be 20. N Form Required 21. Hanger 22. Zipper/Elastic Garment 23. Payment Term Under L/C Finished Garment Evaluation

: : : : :

2/10 net 30 Yes/No Yes/No No Yes/No

Many firms uses both 100 percent inspection and statistical sampling. A number of the finishing processes such as trimming threads and pressing also assist in identifying glaring defects that have not been previously found. When effective quality system is used throughout the manufacturing process, the reliance on finished goods inspection may be reduced. Final inspection usually involves inspection of the fabric, sewing, wet processing results (if done), consistency of labels, and measurements according to size. When fabrics are repairable, garments should be sent to a special station called Mill Flaw Repair also known as Darning where fabric flaws are corrected by pulling extra fibers out of yarn slubs and pulling knots to the back. These relatively simple processes require special training for the operators but may allow the seconds to be upgraded to first quality. Conclusion The Indian garment industry has a lot of potential to become the largest garment manufacturing industry in the world combined with the advantage of cheap and skilled labor provided we get the latest machineries, equipment and methods used for garment manufacturing. Indian garment industry although needs to reduce WIP, and throughput time and improve quality by applying quality control systems like 5S, Six Sigma and other quality control tools. Various established techniques are used to reduce inventory and throughput time. Most people have come across at least some of these including:

Balancing (Yamazumi)

and

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