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Color and Texture

Color and Texture

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Published by Interweave

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Published by: Interweave on Oct 17, 2011
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03/13/2014

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MARGO SELBY
150
 CONTEMPORARY DESIGNS
COLOR AND TEXTURE
IN WEAVING
 
These patterns are created with stripes of two colors in both thewarp and the weft. These two colors—although lying next to eachother both horizontally and vertically—never actually weave together. Only the matching colors will weave together (for example, the black warp weaves with black weft and white warp weaves withwhite weft). When not weaving, the weft yarn will float over or under the second cloth. These floats either reveal or conceal theopposite color and it is this action that creates the patterns. Thename “deflected double weave” comes from this concept that thereare two different-colored cloths weaving, although as these are sideby side the result feels like a single cloth.
Applications
This collection makes quite a heavyweight cloth, kept very soft and tactile because of the lambswool and cashmere content.Because the fabrics are soft and cozy, they are perfect for blanketsor throws, which could be paired with matching or coordinatingcushions. These fabrics could also be applied to a coat or jacket. Theweight and super-softness means that you won’t need to line thegarment, as it should feel nice against the skin. You will, however,need to consider how the pattern may be affected by seams or panelling in a garment, and choose the garment pattern accordingly.
Development ideas
Once these designs have beenwoven and you have anunderstanding of how thepatterns are created, challengeyourself technically by designingyour own simple patterns andseeing if you can translate theseusing the deflected double clothconstruction. While designingyour pattern, it is important toremember that there are fourblocks in the warp—two lightand two dark. You must designyour own pattern within thisrepeat. Use graph paper to helpyou work out whether the warpand weft floats are on thesurface or the back of the fabric,in order to create the shapeswithin the design.
Deflected double cloth
Warp yarns
sett at 16 e.p.i.
2/28 Cashmere:
Apple, Baby blue, Lilac, Bubblegum, Tangerine.Delicate 2-ply cashmere yarn, designed for knitting with. This yarn is not strong enough in the warp but its delicacy adds a softness to the finished fabric.
Notes
This collection has been lightlyfelted—handwashed in warmwater with washing detergent.While washing, the fibers aregently rubbed together untilthey start to matt lightly together.This helps to add texture as thedifferent yarns will all shrink atslightly different rates. Squeezeout any excess water and lightlyiron the fabric before leaving itto dry flat.
2/14 Lambswool:
Black, Wine, Turquoise, Ecru, Khaki.2-ply knitting yarn that felts beautifully. It also feels soft when washed. It is notstrong enough for the warp but is great for the weft—especially as the felting means you do not need to sew or tie loose warp threads.
Deflected double weave can be used to create bold geometric patterns thatlook like an oversized color and weave effect.
The yarns
Weft yarns
Apple Baby blue Lilac Bubblegum Tangerine
2/8 Spun silk 
Chunky 2-ply silk, oneof the heavier weightsof silk available to weavewith. It is expensive so you may want to weavea practice warp witha viscose yarn of similar weight which will give you the same shine.
2
THE COLLECTIONS
Black Wine Turquoise Ecru Khaki
1/10 Mohair 
Fine mohair designed tobe used on a fine-gaugeknitting machine. Youcan use knitting yarns inthe warp as long asthey are strong enough.
 
87654321
 
PATTERN
ˆ
DEFLECTED DOUBLE CLOTH
3
  s   h  a   f   t  n  u  m   b  e  r  s
Black mohair Silk Repeat from beginning
x
 1Architecture
 A strong horizontal turquoise stripe is broken at small intervals by cream stops. The khaki threads help to knock back the black, resulting in a richly subtle cool green that offsets the punchier turquoise.On the back of the fabric, the patternlooks the same, with the diagonals withinthe cream squares reversed.
 WarpBack of fabricHow the pattern repeats
   W  e   f   t
Repeat
 e p e a  t   e p e a  t  
2Zipper
Black and cream yarns combine in a vertical zebrapattern to create a strong graphic print that would look completely at home in a contemporary setting.On the back of the fabric, cream zipper edges become black.
 Warp
   W  e   f   t
RepeatHow the pattern repeatsBack of fabric
Pattern A
Ax2; Bx2; Cx2; Dx2
12345678
Pattern BPattern C
12345678
Pattern D
1234567812345678
  x   R  e  p  e  a   t   f  r  o  m   b  e  g   i  n  n   i  n  g
x
Pattern CPattern D
Cx2; Dx2
Threading plan
Turquoise lambswoolKhaki lambswoolEcru lambswoolBlack lambswool
1234567812345678

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