Super-Flex Track FAQ

About Atlas Super-Flex Track

Talk to anyone with an HO or N scale layout and chances are it includes some of Atlas' famous Super-Flex Track. This fine track is our most popular product and is known worldwide for its versatility and, of course, flexibility. Stephen Shaffan, Jr., the founder of Atlas, patented the innovation, which remains unparalleled to this day. What makes Atlas' Super-Flex Track so unique is that unlike many other curvable track, which tends to "kink" when flexed, Atlas' can be formed and re-formed until you arrive at the desired shape. Like all Atlas track, Atlas' Super-Flex is a high quality track made with injection-molded plastic and premium nickel silver rail. Like thousands of others, we know you will enjoy using it. Available in HO Code 83 (simulated wood or concrete ties), HO Code 100, N Scale Code 80 and N Scale Code 55, it's fun and easy to use! How To Use Super-Flex Track

Super-Flex Track has one stationary rail and one that slides, allowing it to bend easily. When bending the Flex Track into the desired shape, you must keep in mind that the sliding rail must always be on the inside of the curve (closest to the center of your layout plan). Once you are sure the sliding rail is facing the right way, tack the track loosely (in case you need to move it later) to your tabletop, then clip the excess rail, making it even with the stationary rail. Super Flex Track can be easily bent and shaped to form curves of any radius. It is ideal for realistic, spiral easement curves, and can be cut easily to any needed length with any saw, including the #400 Modeler's Super Saw.

Laying Flextrack
On this page I capture information about how I prepared and laid flextrack on my third layout. I used Micro Engineering code 55 unweathered flextrack. I also use Micro Engineering metal rail joiners. Regardless of the scale you model, working with flextrack is about the same.

Roadbed Preparations
At the time of this article I was working on the simple reverse loop on my third layout. The first photo shows the AMI Roadbed already installed on the luan board sub-roadbed. In the foreground you can see the finished product.

Track Preparations
The flextrack from Micro Engineering comes in 3-foot (91.4 cm) sections. The plastic ties run all the way to the end of the track, so they need to be trimmed. This needs to be done to allow the metal rail joiners to slip on to the rails. I use a razor saw to cut the plastic away between the second and third tie from each end of the piece of track. Stop when the saw starts hitting the metal rails. Two ties provides enough space for the rail joiners.

Micro Engineering rail joiners provide an extremely tight fit with their rail. This is good because it provides solid electrical and mechanical contact. However, the rail joiners are therefore a real pain to install. After several of the joiners bent or went into my fingers, I came up with a better way to install them. The hardest part is to get the rail joiners to go on to begin with. Once you have a good start, they will generally slide in pretty easily. To give them this head start, I came up with the idea of filing a sloped edge on the bottom of each rail. I first use a relatively rough file to remove most of the material, and then a finer jewelers file for the trimming and getting rid of the flash. The next photo shows a side-profile view of the treated rails.

Now comes the fun part - installing the rail joiners. The method shown in the next photo is the most reliable one I have found. Put the edge of the rail joiner on the rail with your fingers. Next, grab the lip of the rail joiner in between your thumb and index finger nails. Then slowly push the rail on making an ever-so-slight rocking motion. If you push too hard, the rail joiner will bend. If you rock sideways too much, the rail joiner will bend out of alignment. If the rail joiner really doesn't want to get on, either go back and file the rail some more, or grab another rail joiner. Concentrate on the rail joiner and on your fingers' position. If your nails slip, there is a chance the lip on the rail joiner will insert itself in your skin (drawing blood). Also, because of the pressure on your nails, the nails will most likely be damaged. As tempting as it is, do NOT use pliers. They do not provide enough "feel". If you use pliers, odds are pretty good that you will bend the rail joiner out of alignment. Do not try to rescue damaged rail joiners. It is not worth it. Just make sure that you buy plenty (10 or 20% more than you need).

In-place Trimming
OK, so now you are done with the one side of the piece of flextrack. Since I am laying track on a curve, I installed the flextrack against existing track. The side that had the rail joiners installed got installed on to the existing track. I shape the track to fit my layout plan, and when it is all done I am left with what you can see on the next photo - uneven ends of the piece of flextrack. Even though Micro Engineering flextrack preserves its shape to a large degree when removed, I usually trim the other end of the track in-place.

Here I am in the process of marking off where to cut the rail that sticks out too far. Several years ago I bought a model railroaders tool set from Micro-Mark that contains track-laying jigs. I am using one here that lays on the rails. It provides a nice 90-degree angle to the first rail so that I can mark-off the other rail. Any straight-edge and a good eye will do the same.

Now that I have marked where to cut the rail, I use Xuron rail nippers to cut the rail to the right length (below).

With the rail cut to length I am basically back to where I started at the top of this article for the other side of the flextrack. I need to trim off the last two ties from the underside of the flextrack. However, because I don't want to disturb the track too much, I use the razor saw and gently cut between the second and third tie, as before.

Use the rail nippers (or any other cutting tool) to cut the last two ties in half, and the plastic pieces should just fall off.

The rail nippers do a good job at trimming the rail ends, but a little filing doesn't hurt. Try to make the ends of the rails flush with each other. It will make it easier to fit the next piece of flextrack against this one.

Next, use the files to create that sloped edge under both pieces of rail. This requires a bit of patience and a good grip on the flextrack (not shown here).

Use the file to get rid of any left-over flash and trimmings. Normally you would be holding the file, but if I were holding it, I would have been blocking the camera's view. The side of this file has grooves on it too.

Slightly chamfer the top of the rails. Every little bit helps in keeping the wheels running smooth.

Special Situations
If the track is part of a large curve, or if it is attached to a turnout, I usually solder the rail joiners. This increases the electrical contact and permanently holds the two sections of track together in the desired position. However, soldering all rail joiners everywhere might be bad because it wouldn't allow for the rails to expand and contract as temperature changes happen. Note: not shown in these photos is what I do for ties under the rail joiners. I simply slip two or three Micro Engineering wooden ties under the rail joiners. The ties need to be a bit shallower than the plastic ties to account for the thickness of the metal rail joiners. If the ties are going to be loose for a while, I usually drop some white glue on them to hold them down to the AMI Roadbed. Otherwise, I just wait until the ballasting stage, because that is going to hold them in place.

When you have a closed-loop section of track, you will get to a point where two pieces of track face each other but don't close the gap. This situation is shown in the next photos. Measure between the existing pieces of track and cut and prepare a corresponding piece of flextrack (the camera angle makes it look like this piece is too small, but it isn't).

The hardest part is installing the rail joiners. The trick I use is one that I learned from a brief stint of involvement in a local NTrak club. Slide the rail joiners all the way back on the filler

piece (both ends). Place the filler piece in place and slowly move the rail joiners into place. This typically isn't very easy, so take your time and be patient.

Track Power
This next photo shows two feeder wires soldered to the bottom of the rails. It is barely visible here. Once ballasted, the solder and wires are completely hidden. Be sure to pull on the wires after the solder has cooled to make sure you have a good solder contact. If not, the wires may come loose. To insure a good contact point under the rail, I usually use a small jewelers file and roughen up the bottom of the rail a bit. This seems to hold the solder much better.

Copyright 1999-2011 Peter Vanvlie