Fall 251

Leeks

Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum biennial

Even in the midst of a blizzard, Eva will venture out into her garden to dig leeks. The vibrant green spires stand tall against the whipping wind, undaunted, like brave soldiers awaiting their rescue. Normally leeks can be pulled by hand, but if the ground is partially frozen, a long, thin shovel must be used to dig deep and uproot the leek. I think Eva enjoys digging in semi-frozen soil during a January blizzard because it brings her back to her childhood in Wisconsin, when she would get a thrill from letting her rubber boots flood with icy water while walking through a swampy field. Leeks are long, slim, and glamorousthe ultimate in the layered look (a term popularized by the movie Annie Hall). Cut straight through a leek and you can see the layers of white and green rings, like concentric growth rings of a baby sapling. Leeks are a pet vegetable of Evas. She quips, I dont mean to disrespect the onion, but leeks are far better. They are sweeter, milder, prettier. I dont disagree, but I feel that leeks and onions have different features. Onions caramelize beautifully, but they can also melt into the woodwork. A bright green leek, on the other hand, doesnt caramelize so well, but its appearance and texture are rarely overlooked.

Culinary Uses
Few people think beyond soups with leeks, Eva opines. She likes to add chopped leeks to soups and stews as well, but only at the last minute to preserve their brilliant green color and crunch. I often sear them quickly and use them for the finishing touch on a soup, stew, or seafood dish. Leeks have a special affinity for fish and winetry deep-fried julienned leeks as a

garnish for fish. Leeks also do well in pickles and kimchi. Many chefs halve leeks lengthwise and grill them. I like to chop them and cook them in butter for a quiche or omelet filling. One of Evas favorite clients, Patrick Connolly of Bobo restaurant in Manhattan, has many inventive ideas for leeks. His signature burger sits on pickled leeks and is topped with Gruyre and then fried leeks. He also makes a dish called Bacon, Eggs, and Cereal, which is a leek fondue (leeks poached in butter and pureed, simulating a hot cereal) topped with farro, bacon, and a poached egg. A typically French method of preparing leeks is to simmer them whole until tender, about twenty minutes, then slit them in half, chill, and place them on a plate, cut side up. Drizzle with a mustard vinaigrette and top with a grated hard-boiled egg. In cooking school we simmered leeks in the same manner for terrines but left them whole. We placed two or three down the length of a terrine loaded with other blanched vegetables (like peas, green beans, and carrots), ladling gelatinous aspic into the terrine to bind it all together. The terrine was encased in blanched Swiss chard leaves and was weighted down for a few days. Once the terrine was cold, inverted, and sliced, the leeks resembled planets amid a constellation of vegetables. In France we also made our bouquet garni (an herb bundle for flavoring stocks) using the tough outer leaves of leeks to enclose thyme, parsley, and other herbs. The folded leek leaves are tied like a present with string. A lot of people instruct you to discard the upper green leaf sheaths. Eva says these pale green inner leaves are the hidden treasure of the leek. I find the green part of a leek to be milder

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and sweeter than the white part, although some leaves may need to be discarded if they are worn or stressed. If your leek is fresh, certainly you can use the green part; chopped, it shines in salads, salsas, and more. Eva treats the dark green outer leaf sheaths like broccoli stems: slicing them thinly breaks down any toughness, and they become very palatable. Even the rootlets of leeks are edible! says Eva.

Health Virtues
Like other members of the allium family, leeks are high in antioxidants. They are also high in vitamin B6, vitamin C, folate, iron, and manganese and pack a lot of flavor with few calories.

Buying, Storing, and Prepping

Buy leeks that have firm, hydrated skin. The white portion should be shiny and smooth

to the touch, and the greens should stand at attention for the most part. Fresh leeks should be stored unwashed and untrimmed in a sealed bag in the refrigerator, where they will keep for up to one month. Cooked leeks are highly perishable and will keep for only about two days in the refrigerator. To clean and prepare a leek for cooking, trim off the rootlets (unless, like some chefs, you choose to cook them), any portion of the green tops that is withered and worn, and any tough outer layers. A leeks many layers inevitably trap dirt. To get rid of it, make a lengthwise incision down the middle of the shaft all the way through the leek, from the point where the white part meets the green part to the end of the green leaves. Holding the leek by the root end, plunge the top end gently into a tub of lukewarm water to dislodge the dirt. Let it sit for a few minutes to allow the dirt to settle. If your recipe calls for cross sections, first cut the leek into the desired pieces, then place the slices in a colander and run them under cool water.

Growing Leeks
Eva advises, Start leeks from seed in February indoors and they will hold as babies until the ground is ready for plantingthey can hang out up to 2 months or more in their trays before they are planted. Transplant into your garden up to two weeks before the last frost, burying seedlings up to the first leaf notch and spacing them 4 to 6 inches apart. Leeks need full sun, good soil, and lots of water. If you wish, you may mound soil around the leek as it grows to blanch the stalk. Leeks are relatively cooperative and will survive almost all winter long in good condition if heeled into the dirt in a root cellar or transplanted from the field into an unheated hoop house.

Fall 253

Cod Potato Leek Gratin

My mom urged me to include this recipe because she feels everyone needs a good storehouse of simple recipes. I made it for my parents a few days after their house burned down (after they had lived there for fifty-two years). The only thing I could really offer, since my sisters were on top of everything else, was to take the three-hour drive and feed them some good food cooked with love while they were dealing with the crisis and its many problems (the worst of which was the loss of their dog Jamie). One of the few things that did survive was my fathers garden. It was November, and the leeks were thriving, so I pulled three or four and featured them in this gratin. The meal, along with red wine, had a healing effect on us all.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS

2 tablespoons butter 3 leeks, chopped 6 garlic cloves, minced 2 pounds potatoes, scrubbed and thinly sliced 2 cups half-and-half teaspoon salt 1 pounds fresh cod or any white-fleshed fish, cut into 2-inch pieces Half a loaf good hearty bread, sliced thick

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. 2. In a large stovetop casserole dish (at least 12 inches in diameter), melt the butter over medium heat. Add the leeks and saut, stirring, until they are soft and slightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute. Add the potatoes and half-andhalf, and season with the salt and freshly cracked black pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, for 5 minutes. 3. Stir in the cod, then set the casserole in the oven and bake, uncovered, for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender. 4. Arrange the bread slices so that they hang half in and half out of wide soup bowls. Spoon the gratin into the bowls, partially on top of the bread. Ladle in the cream that remains at the bottom. Serve immediately.

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Smashed Leeky Potatoes

MAKES 2 OR 3 SERVINGS

These are certainly first-rate as is, eaten perhaps alongside garlicky greens and/or roast chicken. If you have it on hand, add a handful of chickweed or chopped sorrel toward the end of the leeks cooking time. You can make a vegan version by using a good olive oil and soy milk instead of the butter and milk.

3 Yukon Gold potatoes (1 pounds), with peel, cut into 1-inch pieces 1 large leek, cut into -inch pieces 1 garlic clove, minced 3 tablespoons butter cup milk or light cream Salt and freshly cracked black pepper

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the potatoes, reduce the heat, and simmer, covered, until the potatoes are tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain the potatoes, rinse them with cold water to cool, and set aside. 2. While the potatoes are cooking, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and leek and cook, stirring, until the leeks are softened, about 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat. 3. Mash the potatoes in a large bowl with a masher. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter, the leeks and garlic, and the milk. Mash some more, adding salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste.