Contents

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Gastronomy .Culture in everyday life

the art of cooking
The Ionian Islands
The land
Nature on your... plate
Ionian Islands... traditionally
Festivals
The Flavours
Rooster Pastitsada | Sofrito | Bianco | Porpetes | Lamb on vine shoots |
Sardines in garlic, lemon and oregano | Octopus baked in red wine | Savoro |
Sartsa | Cauliflower sofigado | Yiouvarlakia in vine leaves and egg and lemon sause |
Croquettes | Cumquat preserve | Fitoures

Gastronomic glossary

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Crete
The Land
Nature on your... plate
Crete traditionally
Festivals
Flavours
Wild greens kalitsounia | Tomatoes stuffed with rice and fennel |
Revithato | Kid in egg and lemon sauce with almonds |
Lamb and artichokes in egg and lemon sauce | Kapriko |
Ofto with wine and coarse sea salt | Gardoumakia with courgettes |
Chochloi bourbouristoi | Wheat bread | Fried melomakarona |
Bergamot preserve | Anevata kalitsounia | Sarikopites

Gastronomic Glossary

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Cyclades
The land
Nature on your... plate
Cyclades... traditionally
Festivals
Flavours
Kalogeros | Tirititim | Fourtalia with potatoes and sausage |
Strapatsada with capers and onions | Domatokeftedes |
Black-eyed beans with tiganisi | Revithada from sifnos with skepastaria |
Patoudo | Matsata | Melitinia - lychnarakia | Gemista

Gastronomic Glossary
The Dodecanese
The land
Nature on your... plate
Dodecanese... traditionally
Festivals
The flavours
Maouri | Stuffed calamari | Fried octopus meatballs | Doulma(de)s |
Thrapsala with green beans | Beans with lamb and goat in the oven |
Red mullet with rusks | Wine soaked octopus with olives |
Squid and calamari burgers | Lentil risotto | Lambropites |
Plum tomato preserve | Leros 'poungia'

waves of f lavour

"Nisson Periplous",
Development Agencies' Network of Insular Greece

Gastronomy Glossary
Northeastern Aegean
The land
Nature on your... plate
Northeastern Aegean... traditionally
Festivals
Flavours
Pumpkin pie | Fish cooked in the oven with tomato |
Sougania- onion dolmades | Fried meatballs with ouzo and cumin |
Tomatoes stuffed with octopus | | Baked quinces |
Marrow preserve | Galatopita

Gastronomic Glossary

References / sources

"Nisson Periplous"
(literally Island Cruising)
Development Agencies'
Network of Insular Greece

Leader,
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According to the guidelines set by the European Commission and

the main aspirations of LEADER Community Initiative, which aim at
improving life quality among rural residents, both the overall
approach of local developmental programmes as well as their particular co-operational projects, have been designed so as to contribute,
within their power, towards this goal. Such programmes and projects
have been developed in compliance with the rationale of sustainable
development for the regions of intervention, so as to make them
attractive for their residents, who live and work there, as well as for visitors and travellers.
Networking and partnerships are a central parameter for action
in our days, since they strengthen the extroversion of societies and
encourage development of innovative approaches through the
exchange of ideas and best practices while contributing towards social
cohesion and improved competitiveness.
In this context, eleven Local Action Groups of Insular Greece,
i.e. from the Ionian Islands, Crete, the Cyclades and the North-Eastern
Aegean, recognizing the added value and multiplying effects of transterritorial cooperation, created in 2007 the Development Agencies
Network of Insular Greece called Nisson Periplous (literally Island
Cruising) in the framework of Axis 2 for Trans-regional Cooperation of
LEADER+ Community Initiative.
Partner-Agencies are Heraklion Development Agency S.A. (Lead
Partner), Development Agency of Lassithi S.A., Organisation for the
Development of Western Crete (OADYK), AKOMM-PSILORITIS
Development Agency SA, Lesvos Local Development Company ETAL S.A, Lemnos Development Enterprise S.A., AN.DO. S.A Development Agency of Dodecanese S.A., Development Corporation
of Local Authorities of Cyclades S.A., Local Authorities Cooperative of
Zakynthos, Development Company of Kefalonia & Ithaki S.A and
Development Agency of Ionian Islands S.A.
This cooperation emerged from the imperative necessity of Greek insular areas to brand their particular features and, mainly, those reflecting
their insular character, so that they promote their locality as a lever for
sustainable development. Additionally, another goal is to record the
developmental deficit of islands, so that common tools may be
applied for resolving their difficulties.

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, 1,5 . , 30/06/2009
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Leaders in this effort are the cultural features of the islands, their
natural wealth and their human potential. The aim is sustainable
exploitation of local resources and changing the established tourist
development profile of Greek Islands from the globalised homogeneity
of mass tourism to tourism with an identity or from the so far misused term of development of tourism to that of tourism of development.
The basic actions of the Network concern the transfer of good
developmental practices, networking among agencies and investors of
participating territories, as well as quality targeted branding of the cultural and natural wealth of insular areas. These actions mainly focus on
exploiting the particular cultural heritage of the islands in all its aspects,
organizing special interest tourism and networking of all island stakeholders and important productive sectors, ultimately aiming at highlighting a strong insular identity.
This publication is part of a series of books for unified branding of
the insular territories of the network; they include an alternative tourist
guide titled Nisson Periplous Enallactica (Alternative Island Touring),
a photographic album featuring outstanding tourism sites titled Steries
Thalassinon (Seafarers Lands), a gastronomy album titled Kymata
Gefseon (Flavour Waves), a photographic album on the architecture of
the islands titled Architectoniki tou fotos (The Architecture of Light)
and a collection of articles and lectures titled Viossimon Nisson
Periplous: Idees kai skepseis gia to mellon tis nissiotikis Ellados
(Sustainable Island Cruising: Thoughts and Ideas about the Future of
Insular Greece).
This project, of a total cost of around 1.5 million Euros, is to be
completed on June 30, 2009; however, with its planned continuation
into the new programming period, the network Nisson Periplous
aspires at becoming a permanent structure active in the sector of substantially resolving insular territory problems, through putting forward
actions and policies aiming at putting an end to insular isolation and at
improving the islands developmental course.
Finally, the Network Nisson Periplous would like to warmly thank
all those who have supported and contributed towards this effort and,
in particular, the executives of the Development Agencies who have
worked enthusiastically, the authoring and photographing teams of the
various publications for their reliable response, local and sector agencies, as well as the Ministry of Rural Development & Food and its various departments for their smooth cooperation; furthermore, the
Network would like to declare its commitment to an equally creative
presence in the next programming period.

waves of f lavour

" "

Gastronomy
culture in
everyday life

The need to create this gastronomy guide arose

from the aspiration to highlight what cooking .is not.
Cooking, to start with, is not folklore. It is not what
is transmitted through our visual nerves or taste buds
nor is it a fancy ornament of old or modern civilization.
On the contrary, cooking is an aspect of our everyday
life, a life that carries the distillate, the essence, of various different aspects of a rich and long culture. These
features are frugal and unaffected, just like the land that
gave birth to this civilization. Flavours, aromas and
colours are clear and distinct, like those of olives, wheat
and grapes
In other words, our aim is not to record recipes and
'measure' the right dose of this or that ingredient to
make 'moussaka' or 'gemista'; nor is it to give ideas to
those housewives who wonder what to cook every
morning. What we are aiming at, in these pages, is to
discover the initial seeds of inspiration that brought
together, into the same pot, fennel and snails, sage and
skaros fish [Euscarus cretensis] and the hot black pepper
corns with the tender green leaves collected in the
fields.
Our challenge is to initiate readers into the art of
island cooking, so that they may return again and again
to the pages of this book when they want to feel, to
imagine, to travel to the islands of our country, and to
wander around various housewives' homes and dig gardens of various flavours.

waves of f lavour

10

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11

"People developed the

art of cooking, when they
acquired the experience of
tasting"

later they added salt to meat and then someone introduced the stuffing of a kid's belly and cooked it so that it would

melt in the mouth; this dish became special by filling the belly with

small pieces of boiled meat and adding a sweet flavour. He put in

. , , -

a piece of fish that could not be seen, vegetables, luxurious

, "

smoked fish, chondros and honey..."

Since early antiquity, imagination and inventiveness in gastron-

, -

omy - as testified in the extract above by the ancient Greek gram-

marian and author Atheneus (Athenion 661a-c) -could not but

(, 661a-c),

transform cooking into art! In the Mediterranean basin, cooking is

the culture of everyday life. This impressive relief and the wealth

of its natural environment have always been reflected in the multi-

aspect cultural phenomena and, therefore, gastronomy, which is

, -

the prevailing expression of the particular character of place. This

is why the diet of most countries of the wider area of the

. -

Mediterranean sea has become famous in the world today, both

for its health benefits and for its culinary delights: it offers a wide

range of ingredients, aromas and colours. The combination of

, -

quality and flavour in food has always been the goal of cooking. It

, . -

is not a coincidence that Hippocrates1, 2500 years ago, support-

, ,

ed that food should not only be healthy but also pleasurable.

. , 2500

Hippocrates himself preferred food that was less wholesome and

, , -

tastier, because he believed that there was an enhanced beneficial

. -

effect on humans due to the biochemical processes created by a

satisfying, high-quality dish.

This is how gastronomy was born all those centuries ago it

was the art of producing rich and tasty meals. Of course, the

importance of health was always kept in mind. Already in the face

of Asclepius, the God of Greek mythology, one sees a central fig-

ure of the archetypal hero-healer; this reflects the concept of the

. -

healing power of nature, an integral part of which is diet, which is

. -

protected by one of the god's five daughters, Goddess Hygeia2.

This relation between diet and health was also implied by Homer,

-,

while it was scientifically supported by Hippocrates and, later on,

by the famous physician Galenus3. The latter was the second most

, 5

important physician in antiquity; He defined three aspects of cur-

, 2.

ing medicine: diet, 'pharmacological treatment' and surgery4. The

first two have always been interwoven with Nature: a diet based

3. -

on the fruit of the earth and 'pharmacological cures' with herbs,

, , -

i.e. cooking ingredients that shaped the Mediterranean and, by

: -

extension, the Greek dietary paradigm. The latter enjoys a top

waves of f lavour

12

13

, "" 4. -

position globally today, as admitted even by experts from the

used to the full and consumed in tens of different ways. This is a

home country of 'gourmets', i.e. France, and as proven by evi-

, -

wonderful ecological practice that emerges from the harmonious

, "" ,

dence-based scientific research. The seven country study by the

. .

co-existence of humans with nature; it is rooted in ancient prac-

World Health Organisation5, i.e. the Serge Renaud study6, recent

tices of times when a high culture index could not but affect a

, .

research undertaken by the Universities of Athens and Harvard

, ,

community's cuisine. Ancient Greek customs have hardly changed

and numerous other papers reveal the longevity of Mediterranean

and are still alive in our days! 'Krassopsychia' [literally: 'wine-soul

"", , -

people, as compared to that of the rest of the Europeans; this is

. , ,

boosting'], i.e. starting one's day with a mug of wine and rusk is an

particularly true about the Greeks and it is correlated with their

. , -

almost pan-Hellenic custom of ancient origins. 'Polycarpia' [literal-

dietary standards.

, -

ly: 'multi-grain'], i.e. a dish made with boiled fruit/nuts/cereals and

. -

pulses accompanied by various aromatic herbs and wild greens,

7 ,

Serge Renaud6,

was an easy tasty meal for most, mainly rural, communities in our

The prevailing element of Greek cuisine is its authentic rela-

country.

, ,

tionship with the earth and its products. In their primary form,

Island cuisine (particularly that of the Ionian and the Aegean

chorta (field greens), honey, herbs, cereals, pulses, meat and fish

. -

islands) is outstanding. This is due to the harsh living conditions

are cooked separately or together, creating culinary masterpieces,

! "-

created by the limited land area of the islands, the scarcity of

which have been handed down through the centuries, preserving

", -

water and the barren soil. Such adverse conditions not only did

our gastronomic tradition unadulterated in a way no other expres-

, ,

not restrict cooking, but encouraged the development of a special

sion of our culture has been preserved: from mouth to mouth

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culinary culture, which has been enhanced through continuous

. ,

Some of its features cannot but be surprising.

, -

exchanges with neighbouring lands. The islands of the Ionian Sea,

, , , , ,

The wide variety of dishes and the imagination involved in

) -

of the Northern and Southern Aegean Sea and Crete, much more

using absolutely everything is admirable! Take courgettes for

, , .

so than continental Greece, became crossroads of civilisations

, -

example: They are consumed raw, boiled and sprinkled with a

through trade transactions. Odessa, Alexandria, Marseilles, Malta,

lemon and olive oil dressing, fried, stuffed, baked, used as stuffing

South Italy as well as Egypt, Istanbul, Smyrna and numerous other

for pies, they are made into vegetable balls for fryingThey are

cities, port-cities and countries influenced and were influenced by

not the only ingredient used in such a versatile manner. All fruit

, . -

local cooking traditions, as well as by the customs and practices of

and vegetables, in various disguises, are proposed either as leading

daily, family and social life. Indeed, every expression of island cul-

characters of the culinary creation or as accompaniments for meat,

, -

ture is directly related to gastronomy. There is no celebration,

fish, pasta or pulses. The creativity of housewives leads them to

event, ritual, religious feast or mystery, birth, death or other social

combine different food ingredients: fruit with meat, sour and

. -

event that is not accompanied by culinary creations of a rich

, , ,

sweet, pulses with vegetables, while they manage to preserve the

, , -

symbolic character. Wishes, hopes, values, aversions, fears and

, , , , ...

authentic flavour of each product. This is the great success of the

prejudices have always been expressed in inventive ways, through

. -

Greek cuisine, which 'wastes nothing'. Harsh living conditions of

simple or complex food combinations. Such dishes were con-

rural populations and the special conditions of isolation and pover-

, , , , -

sumed either raw, expressing the need for purification and cleans-

, , , . -

ty, which was a phenomenon often experienced, led Greeks to

, , , -

ing, or cooked, decorated and mixed with each other, to express

adapt and invent, from time to time more frugal choices for their

euphoria and celebration. This is particularly true in the case of

, , , -

daily meals; this did not, however, adulterate the basis of their

, -

major religious festivals:

cooking, while their meals were equally tasty and enjoyable. Bread

, , -

, -

became rusk to keep longer. Many plant roots were turned into

. , -

[on Christmas Day and New Year's Day] "the table should be full,

, " ".

the best 'mezes' (tidbit) for fasting periods. Bamies (ladies' fingers)

so that it may be full the whole year round nothing bitter should

were dried, fresh fish preserved in salt and meat turned into

, , , , ,

be placed [on the table], so that the New Year may bring no bitter-

smoked sausage to keep longer. Fruit, when not eaten fresh, was

ness no breadcrumbs should be thrown out, there should be plen-

cooked into jams and preserves. Everything, since then, has been

. -

ty of wine, and no one should feel hungry".7

14

other Mediterranean diets. What makes it stand out?

waves of f lavour

The Greek cuisine enjoys pride of place among numerous

15

Even the way dishes are prepared, their shapes and ornaments

One could enumerate hundreds of legends, beliefs and rituals,

acquired special significance and meaning. The dough of Diples and

which, in one way or another, have for centuries edified in their

Xerotigana, (types of crispy, sweet, pancakes) are shaped in a spi-

exuberance; they take us back to yester times and echo of fairy

, -

ral or rolled shape, even today, to symbolize the swathing of the

tale-like life conditions How can one not be fascinated by learn-

newborn divine infant. Christopsomo [literally: 'Christ's breadloaf']

ing that one of our commonest foodstuffs, pasta, is associated with

is kneaded with plenty of spices and nuts and decorated with a

the food of the souls of the dead, the makares (makaronia)?11 Or

cross-like shape; it symbolizes the fertility and cornucopia of the

, , ,

about the significance bread crumbs acquired for village maidens,

earth8.

()11.

who 'collected them from the last feast of the Carnival [Tyrini, lit-

[ ] "

There are also numerous customs related to sowing: from the

, " -

erally: 'Cheese Sunday'] and placed them under their pillow to

' [ -

customary and symbolic ploughing of the field to customs extinct

( )

ensure dreaming of their future husbands"?12

today, such as round bread rings hung on oxen horns, bull pies or

bull bread (Naxos), echoing ancient beliefs in earth fertility. This

"12.

, -

rationale of symbolisms dominates every kitchen in every sea-

, ,

tion, as well as the wealth of customs and symbolisms bequeathed

"7.

son of the year. How could it be otherwise, given the ancient

to us through this culture are the reasons why world acclaimed

This extraordinary interconnection of civilisation, art and survival, as expressed through the necessity of daily food consump-

ecstatic disposition of humans faced with inexplicable magic?

, -

connoisseurs recognize the value of "Greek cuisine". Of course, it

, -

There was awe, for example, for the preparation of leaven (sour

, -

took quite a few decades of scorn before Greek cuisine found the

bread), which was a miracle performed by every housewife: on

" ". -

place it deserved. In the beginning of the 20th century, the

. ,

major annual religious festivals, she mixed the flour with flowers or

European savoir-vivre, which is the goal persistently sought by

, -

leaves and the dough miraculously rose - it would not happen

. 20 -

Greek middle and upper middle classes, promoted the model of

. ,

without magic! Indeed, on Samos, this had to happen in the mid-

savoir vivre, -

the French cuisine, which it tried to incorporate into the Greek

, -

dle of the Temple/Church, while on Melos, they used manous-

housewife's culture. At that time theories were developed which

sakia, the flowers of small wild daffodils, "a sacred plant, which

supported that our ancient Greek cuisine had been adulterated by

helps the great miracle of fermentation".

Some beliefs, such as

influences from the people of the East, that, despite all that, gen-

. ,

shaping dough into human-like forms, have remained unchanged

uine ancient Greek culinary expressions had been salvaged thanks

since antiquity. This ancient worship practice is still encountered in

to the invasion of barbarians from the North who transported

, ,

Mylopotamos, on Crete, where the relatives of the deceased, for

, -

ancient Greek cuisine to Medieval monasteries of the West and

a full year following the death, bring to the Church large, human-

'

that, ultimately, Greek gastronomy was revived by French chefs of

, , -

shaped bread loaves to commemorate their dead.10

the Renaissance, who were inspired by it and created famous

, ,

French 'dishes'13 . Even quite recently, cookery books presented

, -

French and European recipes, included none of the daily 'dishes'

, ' -

of Modern Greeks, and intentionally 'hushed' names of Ottoman

"". -

origin. Only the 'exotic' nuance of the adjective "oriental" cast a

, -

condescending look on the familiar, culinary world!"14

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waves of f lavour

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16

, 10.

17

(. 460 ..-360 ..) ,

.

1
Hippocrates (c. 460 b.C.-360 A.D.) was a famous physician from Kos,
the first one to systematically classify medicine and to attempt methodical treatment of ailments.

'browning', 'setting' and other expressions that prevailed in previ-

- ( , - ), , ,
.
, , .

" " -

ous decades. Simple homage features in women's magazines to

cooking recipes were replaced by numerous manuals and books

about the Greek culinary culture; the world they created made

, -

headlines and led to television shows.

( 129 .. - 199 .)

.

. -

Claudius Galenus (Pergamum 129 b.C. - Rome 199 A.D.) was the second most important physician of antiquity after Hippocrates and
chronologically the last one of the significant physicians of the GrecoRoman world.

, : , . , 2002,
. 7.

Maria and Nikos Psilakis, Herbs in the Kitchen: cooking with choices
from Nature's Pharmacy, Karmanor Publications, Irakleion 2002, p. 7.

'60,
, ,
7 (, , ,
, , ). 30 13.000 40-59 . , ,
, .
,
( , )
, , .

6
, :
, . , 2001, .17.

. , -
, . , 2005, .30.

. - E. Akin, : , . , 2002,
19.

8
M. Lambraki - E. Akin, Greece and Turkey at the same table: a culinary tour of the two countries, Ellinika Grammata Publications, Athens
2002, p.19.

' ,

Just after the end of World War II, having already received the

influx of Asia Minor refugees, the prestige of traditional cuisine did

start to be restored; it was the arrival of the first tourist waves of

, -

the 1960s which brought back to the same table tzatziki, imam-

'60, ,

baildi and raki Cookery books remembered terms such as 'tsi-

, ( ) () -

garisma' (saut-like frying), 'to take the smell of' (receive a touch

"",

of an aroma), 'to drink its water' (absorb excess liquid) instead of

" ", " ", "",

is considered an integral part of Greek culture and goes hand in

hand with tourism in an attempt to preserve our cultural tradition

as this is expressed through colours, flavours, aromas and hun-

dreds of combinations of Greek land products.

,
.

][

"

"In our country, we believe that for a good salad, three people

: ,

are needed: a mad person, a miser and a spendthrift: the

. ,

spendthrift pours the olive oil, the miser the vinegar and the

!" (. 74)

mad person mixes it!" (p. 74)

. , .., 2005, .132

Maria and Nikos Psilakis, Traditional Cretan Cuisine: the wonderful

Cretan diet, Karmanor Publications, Irakleion 2001, p.17.
N. Psilakis, Folk Rituals on Crete - customs of the year cycle, Karmanor
Publications, Irakleion 2005, p.30.

N. Psilakis, op.cit., 2005, p.132

10

. , .., 2005, .156

10

N. Psilakis, op.cit., 2005, p.156

11

. , .., 2005, .109

11

N. Psilakis op.cit., 2005, p.109

12

. , .., 2005, .111

12

N. Psilakis, op.cit., 2005, p.111

13

N Tselementes, Cookery Guide, Athens 1951, 10th Edition, p. 19.

13

. , , . , 1951,
10 , .19.

18

In the beginning of the 1960s, a research study was launched by the

World Health Organisation. The aim was to study dietary habits of
people from 7 differenct (Greece, Italy, Yugoslavia, the Netherlands,
Finland, the USA and Japan). The study lasted for 30 years and included around 13.000 aged 40-59 years. The results of this study showed
that those who lived in Mediterranean countries - and particularly in
Greece - presented lower mortality rates due to cancer and coronary
disease and had the highest average life-expectancy, as compared to
those who lived in other countries. In their attempt to discover what
the secret was, scientists concluded that their particular and natural way
of life (working outdoors, increased physical activity) as well as their
simple and austere diet, which became known as the Mediterranean
Diet, were the causes behind this phenomenon.

14

. - E. Akin, : , . , 2002,
.60.

waves of f lavour

Traditional gastronomy is going through a glamorous period. It

Hygeia - the Goddess of Health; it symbolizes health, through proper

diet, clean living conditions and a natural way of life. Health is usually
depicted in an abundance of fruit, which was considered the ideal food
for maintaining and restoring health, a fact confirmed by modern dietary
science.

14
M. Lambraki - E. Akin, Greece and Turkey at the same table: a culinary tour of the two countries, Ellinika Grammata Publications, Athens
2002, p.60.

19



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- waves of f lavour

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the ionian islands

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21

Ionian Islands
The land

These islands have a rich history lost in the depths of time, and they have followed a common course, independent of that of mainland Greece
for the last 800 years: they were never part of the Ottoman Empire, nor did they live under Turkish occupation. Venetian occupation and other
shorter, not as important, periods of Russian, English and French dominance, influenced their culture and left indelible marks on every expressions
of life in the Ionian islands: arts and letters, architecture, music, theatre, language, customs and traditions; mainly, however, on daily life and, of course,
Ionian island cuisine experienced to the fullest the privilege of being at the centre of cultural and commercial exchanges. After 400 years of
Venetian occupation, it is almost expected for one to make out the traces, flavours and ingredients of Western European cuisine in the recipes and
dishes of the islands, and its effects on the culinary customs of island inhabitants. After so many centuries, the names of dishes and the way they
are prepared are almost identical to those of Venetian times. Thus, to this day, at the table of Ionian islanders, we encounter burdeto, sofrito, sofigladi, bulenta, mandoles, savouro or savoro, pastitsada, polpetone, and many other dishes. Even the wines retain Italian names, such as the famous Robola
variety, which came from the slopes of Friouli which is a Designation of Origin (PDO), from North-western Venice, or Verdea, which took its name
from a medieval Tuscany wine.

- waves of f lavour

gastronomy.

the ionian islands

The Ionian Islands, a collection of rich islands, endowed with natural beauty and vivid green scenery, cover a total area of 2,037 km. and run
the length of the Ionian Sea at the Western most point of Greece. They have always been a bridge between mainland Greece and the rest of
Europe, especially the Italian peninsula. On the ancient trade routes between Italy and the East, they offered channels to the harbours where caravans used to unload their treasures from the rich markets of the East, Asia Minor and Egypt, and this provided a motive to all their conquerors
from the West. These islands are mostly mountainous or semi-mountainous, contrasting the stark landscape of the Aegean islands. They are
characterised by lush vegetation, lots of bodies of water and lagoons, many interesting geological phenomena, important habitats, and rare flora
and fauna.

Many of the ingredients used in cooking were introduced by various conquerors, mainly Venetian, and were incorporated into the daily diet of
local people. The Venetians brought the main vegetable of the "New World", the tomato, as well as peppers, beans, corn, pumpkins, broccoli, which
were cultivated for the first time ever in Calabria, citron trees, spaghetti, initially imported by Marco Polo from China, coffee, chocolate and many
others.
During the Venetian rule, the doge, using crooked means offered 12 gold coins for every 100 olive trees planted - thus contributing to the
development of olive tree cultivation on all the islands at the expense of wheat and vine cultivation. Later, on Zakynthos (Zante) and Cephallonia,
he reintroduced the cultivation of raisin grapes, which earned the Venetians heaps of gold.
The French brought to the Ionian islands many agricultural products, such as potatoes and turkeys, as well as new cultivation techniques. The
English brought Merlin oranges, they planted kitchen gardens, and they left behind a love for ginger beer and British pudding.
As far as the Roman Empire is concerned, its mark may be traced in sweet and sour dishes, which combine raisins and vinegar.

23

 , , ,

During harsh times, such as wars, earthquakes or fires, the islanders

turned to nature for their food and survival, as they could not get hold

of meat but a few times a year. They poured into the fields in search

The fate and development of the islands was influenced more by

. -

of wild forest greens or wild mushrooms; on the rocks near the sea

their geographic location rather than by their fertility. However, the

, ,

they found capers and Samphire (Kritamos - Crithmum maritime), which

geomorphology of the Ionian Islands, with their fertile land, their many

, ,

they pickled, while they searched for edible seaweed in the sea. Island

plains and ample fresh water, transforms them into a flowering para-

women's imagination and ingenuity contributed to the invention of dif-

dise, even in their most barren parts, while it has allowed for the

ferent cooking methods for vegetables and wild forest greens, which

development of agriculture through many different types of crops.

were the main ingredients of their diet and a key to a tasty and varied

The rocky porous limestone terrain, combined with the climate,

. -

cuisine. Thus, dishes such as mammi or mammitsa came about, when a

which blends spring showers with warm summers and sea breezes,

, -

handful of wheat flour and raisins are added to sauted onions, roast

favour viticulture to produce tasty wine and raisins. The golden colour

, -

vegetables, also known as phtochofago [literally: 'food of the poor'],

of the olives attracts one's eyes, as on many islands olive cultivation

, ,

sauted wild forest greens, tourlou and litsa, a mixture of flour, salt and

was the main occupation of the locals for many years; several islands

, ,

water, fried in olive oil and served sprinkled with sugar, fried sweet

are, in fact, vast olive groves. Climate conditions and the mineral con-

potatoes served sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon, known as the most

tent of the soil are the reasons behind the high quality, full flavoured

, -

humble of desserts, fruits cooked in elaborate ways and put into little

local olive oil. Also, rocky terrain favours the cultivation of pulses,

glass jars as preserves and numerous others.

making Lefkada the "lentil mother" of Greece.

, ,

The barren, rough land of Cythera and Ithaca forced their population to turn to the sea for their livelihood and the cuisine of those

In older times the preservation of food was a concern mainly of the

people living in the poorer areas. That is why a main part of their diet

was savouro. This is a special way to cook and preserve fish and vegeta-

bles in vinegar, olive oil, salt, rosemary and capers. Food was also pre-

On Corfu, the island's fertile soil and abundant running water and

. '

served using rock salt, which was abundant in salt marshes (dried fish

mild climate created perfect conditions for the cultivation of the small

. -

on layers of salt), as well as through sun drying, such as sun dried toma-

sensitive citrus fruit - cumquat - which is a variety of a small Chinese

, , -

toes, peppers etc.

orange used for liqueurs and preserves. Its vivid orange colour peers

. ,

The herbs that grow in abundance in the virginal natural setting of

through shop windows or attracts passers by to outdoor shop coun-

, (

the islands, such as oregano, thyme and many others, are used in cook-

ters.

) ( -

ing to give a special aroma or to enhance flavour in various dishes.

islands is rich in fish and seafood.

Zakynthos (Zante), despite 2/3 of the island being mountainous,

, ..).

During periods of great poverty, an envied source of food came

is very fertile thanks to high rainfall and many days of sunshine. The

from hunting, since the islands also possess rich fauna. Different species

island's most famous products are its olive oil, which has been char-

, , , -

of birds that are trapped in the air with the use of nets, when there

acterized as a product of Protected Geographical Indications (PGI)

were no explosives, as well as rabbits, were cooked in various ways and

and raisins, which have been characterized as products of Protected

various combinations, replacing other sources of meat, which was a lux-

Designation of Origin (PDO), ladotyri (oil cheese) and grapes, which

produce excellent local wines (Verdea & Avgoustiates). We must not,

, -

however, leave out the Zacynthian water onion, which enriches sal-

. ,

ads with its mild flavour and Zacynthian melons, the aroma of which

charms even the most difficult gourmet.

, .

- waves of f lavour

24

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Islands with such rich flora could not but produce honey and stock
farming products.

the ionian islands

ury.

25

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The aquamarine natural beauty of the Ionian Islands, Corfu, Paxoi

and Antipaxoi, Cephallonia, Ithaca, Zakynthos and Lefkada, is harmoniously complimented by the exquisite flavours of their cuisine, which is
evidently influenced by the Venetians, who, in leaving, left behind their
traditional secrets, providing a plethora of culinary delights. Their tasty
flavours are based on the pride and love for cooking of local inhabitants,
and are based on original combinations and the excellent quality and
purity of local ingredients, among which cheeses stand out (Corfu and
Zakynthos gruyere and spicy ladotyri, Cephallonia barrel aged feta
cheese etc.).

- -

Corfu - Paxoi - Antipaxoi

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To discover the unique flavours of Ionian Island cuisine, try... on

Corfu, the sofrito, a mixture of Italian sofrito and English maspatata
(mashed potatoes). But the trademark dish of Corfu is pastitsada (rooster or veal cooked in plenty of garlic and spices, boiled in rich tomato
sauce, accompanied by thick pasta or tagliatelle/noodles.
Local Corfu cuisine is a typical mixture of the Mediterranean diet
and has been included in the research study undertaken by an
American University as regards to the Mediterranean diet. With influences from Italy, the Balkans, England and based on traditional local cuisine, the people of Corfu cook with pride and love. They have a special preference for sweet red pepper (paprika), black pepper
("Venetian" due to its origin), garlic, onions, parsley, potatoes and, of
course, olive oil. The cuisine of Corfu, especially in its rural areas,
includes ingredients and recipes that are very simple, which certainly
have their roots in ancient Greek and Roman cuisine. Some of these
are sykomaida, dried figs, finely chopped and mixed in dough with nutmeg, pepper, clove, cinnamon, fennel, ouzo, almonds and walnuts, as
well as riganada, a dish of poor villagers: brown bread - toasted or not
- is served with olive oil, oregano, salt and vinegar.
Southern Corfu, which has always had connections to Epirus, keeps
flocks of goats and sheep and has significantly developed its cheese
making. Typical of the area is the renowned ladotyri, which is produced
in the district of Leukimme. Other typical dishes of Leukimmi are the
tsoukali (pulses stew) which housewives prepared after they were finished with household chores as it requires a lot of preparation time, the
delicious tsigareli, which includes about 12 different herbs, and the well
known salted dishes, which were made for preservation reasons with
lots of salt collected from the salt marshes; these were used as tratarisma (snacks to treat guests) throughout the winter.

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In southern Corfu, in the district of Korissia Lake, cuisine is dominated by fresh water produce, such as bourdeto eels, biancko mullet,
thin shrimp, crabs and roe.
As far as sweets are concerned, one recognises the Venetian influence by their names alone: biacenta (a dessert made with blanched
almonds and tangerines), rozada (a type of crme), mandoles (almonds
in sugar), pastafroles (flour, sugar, butter, eggs, cognac, vanilla), caramelia
(sugar glazed fruit), fougatses (flour, butter, sugar, eggs with kneaded
paste) and others.
Another typical Corfu sweet is cumquat preserve; this dwarf
orange also provides the base for a liqueur, a special beverage made
only on Corfu. Another well known liqueur is jijibyrra (ginger beer),
spicy, somewhat exotic and 100% natural as it only contains water,
sugar, dried ginger root, and lemon juice and essence.
On Corfu's neighbouring islands, Paxoi and Antipaxoi, the dominating flavours are those of fresh fish and seafood in original dishes or in a
plethora of variations, such as the renowned astakomakaronada (lobster spaghetti), bourdetto sea scorpions, and fresh biancko fish.

Cephallonia - Ithaca

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These are islands with significantly distinctive features, both in the

social life and cultural expression of their locals, as well as in their culinary customs...These distinctive features are mainly due to the occupation of the islands by peoples of the West for eight whole centuries.
Garlic, which in Cephallonia is small, aromatic, purple in colour and
sweet, is the staple ingredient used in almost all recipes of the island.
The pies of Cephallonia are original and unique. The ones that stand
out are the meat pie, the haddock pie, the avrakoti (open) chees pie, the
octopus pie, the chortopita with wild forest greens, the artichoke pie, and
the sweet mizithra (soft cheese), garnished with rose petals or orange
blossoms.
Another characteristic dish of Cephallonia is the comfeto or quince
paste, a paste of roast quince, which is first roasted in the oven, then
boiled with sugar and honey and finally enriched with almonds.
The cuisine of Ithaca has clearly been "messed with" by the
Venetians, who left behind what they left to all the other islands as well:
bourgeto fish, mandoles, sofigado, poulenta. However, there are dishes
that are indigenous to this island and can claim, as far as the mentality
of developing cuisine allows it, the identity of traditional dishes: sea
urchin omelette, fried eggs and entrails, a thick pasta dish and beef
cooked in red sauce, spiced with clove and cinnamon, fish marinated
(savoro) with garlic, rosemary and black raisins.

- waves of f lavour

The Ionian Islands

traditionally

the ionian islands

26

27

 -
28

Zakynthos (Zante)

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On Zakynthos, to Fioro tou Levante (the flower of the East), locals

have a strong temperament; they are lively and full of love and pride for
their work; these traits "infect" their cuisine as well. The preparation of
various dishes and sweets has obviously been influenced, as in all Ionian
Islands, by Venetian rule and it is based on local produce of the island.
Some of the most famous dishes and sweets of the island, such as
manestra avgolemono (pasta in an egg and lemon sauce), village stifado
(ragout-like dish), sartsa (beef cooked in garlic, tomato and olive oil),
oven roast stuffed chicken, oven roast stuffed pork belly, aliada (garlic
potato mashed with olive and lemon), stuffed artichokes, skordostoumbi
(crushed garlic in vinegar) eggs, porpetes, pork bellies, sgajeto, christbreads (Christ's bread), kouloura (sweet bread ring), bobota (corn
bread), and pancakes. Nevertheless, the most characteristic dish of the
island is Zacynthino stifado (ragout-like casserole). This is a type of tomato sauce casserole, usually made with beef or rabbit, in a rich red sauce,
plenty of garlic, spices and small pieces of Zacynthian ladotyri (oil
cheese).
Of their sweets, mandolato (nougat) is one that can be found on all
Ionian Islands. However, the Zacynthian variation is more chewy and
full of roasted almonds and honey.
Of their fruit, the richly aromatic wild strawberries are picked every
May in fern filled baskets and then served with sugar or brandy.

Lefkada

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The cuisine of Lefkada is based on pulses, a plentiful supply of fish

and seafood, cereals, various bread types and imaginative sweets, such
as the oil pie as well as several other sweets, which, for the most part,
are dominated by almonds, more than on any other island of the Ionian
Sea. Also renowned are its liqueurs, such as rozoli, mint, rose and bitter
almond.
Unconditionally recommended dishes are riganada, maridopita
(whitebait pie), and the tasty "blonde" Englouvi lentils, which the locals
simply boil, drain and serve with plenty of olive oil and oregano. Also
renowned is the local salami, a unique product that has only been produced on this island for, at least, the last three centuries. It is made with
pork meat and fat and has a peppery flavour. The production process
of Lefkada salami is a craft known by few people.

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The produce of the Ionian Islands is not limited to raw cooking materials. It is often connected and identified with social events, celebration
periods and traditional customs. Broccoli is connected to the last day of
Christmas fasting on Zakynthos and Lefkada, fish to Palm Sunday, vinegar
to Good Friday, lentils to the festival of Saint Donatos on Lefkada, olives,
bitter wild greens and pulses to Holy Week, pork to Christmas, pomegranates to the New Year: tradition has it that a pomegranate is smashed
on the door step and its seeds are counted - each seed is a wish that will
come true in the New Year.
On the Ionian Islands, as in every other corner of Greece, every
important celebration has its own traditions and the family table takes on
a festive atmosphere.
The most characteristic dishes are tiganites, a kind of pancakes served
on the eve of St. Spyridon's Day, pane di spagna (sponge cakes) at births,
aliada (garlic potato mashed with olive and lemon) on the Day of the
Cross, avgolemono soup (egg & lemon sauce soup) at Christmas, rooster pastitsada on Assumption Day and bourdato snails on Pantocrator
Day (Transfiguration Day).
At Christmas, housewives prepare Hristopsomo, the Christ's bread
or Hristokoulouro (Christ's sweet bread ring), as it is called in Lefkada,
and bobota (corn bread). On Corfu and Zakynthos the traditional dish is
egg and lemon soup made with beef stock followed by a beef dish, while
the more well-to-do, as in the past, serve a roast leg of pork with garlic
or roast lamb with artichokes. Let us not forget the pudding, which is an
English influence.
On New Year's Eve tradition in Cephallonia demands that a water
onion or koutsouna be hung outside the front door, as this is considered
a symbol of good luck; the New Year's pie is prepared, which on Lefkada
is none other than the ladopita (oil pie), while tiganites (pancakes) are
prepared on New Year's Day.
On the day of Epiphany, housewives knead a type of bread called
fotitsa (small Epiphany loaf), while on Cephallonia they eat tsigaridia.
Easter is celebrated with great splendour. On Zakynthos and Corfu
bands play in the streets while both islands are well known for the tradition of kanata (clay jug) and of clay plates thrown out of windows onto
the streets and squares. The midnight dinner consists of dyed red eggs,
feta cheese and magiritsa (Easter entrails soup), the variations of which on
Corfu and Zakynthos are tsilikouda and sgatzetto, while on Easter Sunday
the traditional lamb is roasted on the spit. On Ithaca and Cephallonia,
especially on Holy Saturday, all households prepare a dish with red liver
and entrails in tomato and wine, and on Zakynthos egg and lemon soup
is a 'must' for the Easter Sunday table.
Fritoures or fitoures and pasteli (sesame and honey bar) are festival
sweets. Mandolato (almond sweet, nougat) is the special sweet of the
Carnival period.

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Cooking also marks important life events: at betrothals they cook rice
and octopus on Corfu, so that the family may flourish like rice grains and
multiply in all directions like the tentacles of the octopus; at weddings and
births pantespani (sponge cake) is always offered as a treat, while soumada made with bitter almonds is the wedding drink, which, on Zakynthos,
is accompanied by the renowned pandoles (sponge cakes).

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Dozens of other days of the year are honoured with their own special dishes:
Annunciation Day, Palm Sunday and the festival of the Saviour are
linked to cod and aliada, made of garlic and potato mashed with olive
and lemon (Ithaca - Cephallonia - Zakynthos). The same tradition holds
for Corfu on the days of the Annunciation and of the Saviour, while
Palm Sunday is a double celebration for the people of Corfu as they
celebrate the miracle of St. Spyridon, the expulsion of the plague from
the island in 1629 and their tradition is to eat savoro and cod cooked
in various ways (fried, boiled or grilled) served with garlic sauce.
The day of the Annunciation the renowned meat pie is served on
Cephallonia.
During Christmas on Cephallonia they cook pancakes, xerotigana,
goat in egg and lemon sauce and pork with quince; on Ithaca they serve
lamb with potatoes and pudding.
On Zakynthos Christmas sweet bread ring almost replaces the traditional New Year's pie, and that is why there is a small prize (a coin)
hidden inside it. On Christmas Eve it is accompanied by boiled broccoli.
On New Year's Eve, and on the eve of every Name-day, pancakes
with raisins, honey, sesame and cinnamon are served (Zakynthos).
During the Carnival period, no household is without meat pies, mandolato (nougat) and rice puddings, while on Ash Monday they prepare
octopus soup (Zakynthos).
Carnival Thursday is linked to "Ryzada", a rice pudding (Ithaca Cephallonia).
On the day of the Sanctification of Waters they make tsigaridia
(Cephallonia).
On Holy Thursday or Holy Saturday they dye eggs using a grass
growing by the sea (Cephallonia).
On Holy Thursday on Corfu, Ithaca and Zakynthos eggs are dyed
and tsourekia (sweet bread loaves) are kneaded, while on Zakynthos, in
particular, they prepare rice-stuffed artichokes.
At dawn on Holy Saturday, after the Epitaphios procession, everybody tastes eptazyma bread rolls that have just come out of the oven
and are still hot, aromatic and sweet (Zakynthos).
On the celebration of the Virgin of the Clear on September 8, they
celebrate the birthday of the Virgin of the Clear with sweets and good
food.
Also, on the day of the celebration of St. Barbara on December 4,
they make sperna (vespers' dish) and bread with aniseed sprinkled with
caster sugar or honey from the island (Cephallonia).

- waves of f lavour

Festivals

the ionian islands

30

31

 ()

Lefkada wedding revival

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During August Festibal, on Lefkada, the traditional wedding celebration is revived in all its stages: the match-making, mallia (hair), yeast, karfomata (nailing), the wedding ceremony, loading the beds, tavla (table)
feast.

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Lentil festival (Lefkada)

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In the chapel of St. Donatos, in the Municipality of Karya, on August

7, the day commemorating the Saint, a famous festival is held. Village
housewives cook Eglouvi lentils in large cauldrons and treat guests along
with olives and sardines preserved in salt.

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Bourbourelia (Ithaca - Cephallonia) or Polyspora (Corfu)

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This festival takes place in the middle of the sowing season, on the
Day of the Presentation of Virgin Mary on November 21, the Virgin of
Bourboureli. To honour the Virgin local women cook bourbourelia, a
mixture of various local produce, wheat, corn, beans, lentils, chick peas,
broad beans and peas. This originates from the ancient Greek tradition of
offering Demeter the grains of the land, so that the next year may bring
a good crop. On Corfu bourbourelia are called polyspora (multi-seeds)
or sperna (sowing seeds); they are cooked on the same day, November
21, and prepared in the same way. They are served sprinkled with sugar
and cinnamon.

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Animal Farmers' Festival (Cephallonia)

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Several events are organised every year in the Municipality of

Pylaros; one of them is the Animal Farmers' Festival, during which
there are exhibitions of local products, such as oil, cheese, wine,
herbs, needlework, bread goods, and traditional fruit preserves and
baked sweets.

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Orange Prokado (Cephallonia)

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On New Year's Day there is a tradition of carrying a plate with

an orange decorated with cloves from house to house, and wishing
"May God give you the freshness and scent of the juices of the lifegiving orange"!

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Holy Easter (Zakynthos - Corfu)

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Holy Thursday means artichokes stuffed with rice, while on Holy

Friday no tablecloth is laid at lunchtime. The only dishes served are
boiled broad beans, artichokes and potatoes, without any olive oil,
just sprinkled with vinegar. During the early hours of Holy Saturday,
after the procession of the Epitaphios, everyone tastes eptazymo
bread rolls, which are still hot, aromatic and sweet, straight from the
oven. On the night of the Resurrection, the meal must include gammon and sgatzeto and on Easter Sunday tradition demands egg and
lemon soup both on Corfu and Zakynthos.

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Artemisia (Zakynthos)

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In August in Vougiato they celebrate the Artemisia, an ancient

festival, celebrating the goddess Artemis. There are artistic events, a
book fair, and a shooting contest. Dishes served include barbequed
meat and the only drink to be had is wine.

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Sardine Festival (Corfu)

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Wine festival (Zakynthos)

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Every year, on July 17, on St. Marina's Name day, a different kind of
feast is held at the seaside village of Benitses: the Sardine Festival. The
locals grill sardines and treat visitors offering them wine as well, while at
the same time they sing and dance traditional songs of Corfu. This tradition goes back a long time and attracts many tourists who celebrate until
the early morning hours. There are similar sardine festivals in other parts
of the island.

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The wine festival in Macherado, in the beginning of September,

is a real party, with dances, mouth-watering mezedes (tit-bits) and,
of course, plenty of wine.

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Black raisin festival (Zakynthos)

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Robola Festival (Cephallonia)

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The black raisin festival is celebrated in Sarakenado in the beginning of September. Numerous events are held, as well as competitions for the best recipe chosen among the dozens of recipes prepared by the locals, provided their main ingredient is raisins.

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In the district of Omala in Cephallonia the Robola Festival is held in

August, where the local wine by that name is offered in abundance in an
intensely cheerful atmosphere, with local traditional music and dances and
culinary delicacies. Similar wine festivals take place throughout the island.

- waves of f lavour

At the festival of St. Mavra, in Machairado, in July, pilgrims are served

stifado (ragout-like casserole) and eftazimo bread (Zakynthos).
St. Gerasimos Day, on August 16, is celebrated with dikonaria (minister's bread rolls), which are offered by the nuns, in memory of the ministering of the Saint (Cephallonia).

the ionian islands

32

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Rooster pastitsada
Corfu
Saut the pieces of rooster on medium heat until golden brown; add the onions, which you also saut? for another 4-5 minutes until golden brown;
add the tomato paste, the spices and the salt and pepper. Stir for 2-3 minutes and immediately add 2-3 cups of water, depending on the depth of
the pot; let it simmer for at least 1 hour, until all the liquid evaporates and the sauce thickens. Boil the pasta, strain and put aside. Take the rooster
out of its sauce. Pour the sauce onto the pasta and stir well so that it mixes evenly. Serve the pasta hot with the sauce, rooster and grated cheese.

Ingredients (serves 8-10 people)

1 rooster 4 -5 kilos, cut into large portions
cup olive oil
4 large onions, finely chopped
2 Tablespoons tomato paste
2 small sticks of cinnamon
3-4 cloves
teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
a kilo thick spaghetti (No 2)
3 Tablespoons grated kefalotyri
(salty hard cheese)

34

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Sofrito
Corfu
Flour the meat on both sides and shake to get rid of excess flour. Place the meat into a frying pan on medium heat. Cook both sides taking care
not to burn the flour. Take a pot with a heavy wide base and place the fried pieces of meat inside. Remove most of the olive oil from the frying
pan and lightly saut the garlic and deglaze the pan with the vinegar; add a little water and leave on the heat until the flour and all other ingredients
are loosened from the pan; add this 'broth' to the pot with the meat. Wrap the parsley stalks, rosemary, and marjoram in cheese cloth and place
into the pot with the meat. Add some water to the pot if necessary. Cover and let it simmer for at least 50-60 minutes; if there is a lot of liquid
left in the sauce, uncover for the last 20 minutes and let it evaporate and thicken. The meat needs to be very soft and the sauce very thick.
Remove and throw away the ingredients in the muslin, sprinkle with plenty of finely chopped parsley and serve garnished with mashed potatoes.

Ingredients (Serves 8 people)

1 kilo beef cut into strips and slightly beaten
2 cups olive oil
8 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 cup white vinegar
Flour
Salt, black pepper
1 bunch parsley, finely chopped
10 leaves of rosemary
Some marjoram

36

Bianco

( 4-5 )

, , ,

1 -

, . 10

. ,
. 15-20 ,
.

1
6
. .
3 . .

2

,

1
250 .

. .

2
4-5
1 . .

half covering the fish. Simmer for 15-20 minutes until the juices thicken and the
fish softens.

Ingredients (serves 4-5)

1 kilo white-fleshed fish, fillet
or whole
1 medium onion, finely sliced
6 cloves garlic, finely sliced
cup olive oil
3 cups water
Salt
black pepper
2 large potatoes sliced

38

, , , ,
, , , , .
.
1-2 .

,
.

(fried meatballs)

Zakynthos (Zante)

Corfu
salt and pepper. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add the fish and a little more water,

Porpetes

(fish casserole)

In a shallow pot place the olive oil, onion, garlic, potatoes and a cup of water,

Ingredients (serves 6 - 8)
2 slices stale wholemeal bread without the crust
kilo beef mince, finely ground
1 egg
250 grams Zakynthos gruyere,
grated
cup fresh spearmint, finely
chopped
2 grated onions
4-5 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt
Pepper, Oregano
Flour
Olive oil for frying

- waves of f lavour

( 6-8 )

the ionian islands

Bianco

Soak the bread in water and squeeze excess water after bread softens.
Place the mince, egg, gruyere, spearmint, onion, garlic, oregano, salt and pepper
into a large bowl. Knead the ingredients together until they are well mixed. Let
the mixture rest in the fridge for 1-2 hours.
Then shape the mince into large balls and press them slightly in the middle,
flour and fry in hot oil until cooked on all sides.

39

200 . . 6 ,

( 10-12 )
4

. . 3

. ,

( , ). 5

1 . .

180 .

3 . .
3-4

Lamb on vine shoots

Cephallonia
Preheat the oven at 2000oC. Mix the oregano and mustard in a bowl. Use a sharp knife to make 6 deep, narrow cuts into the meat. Place half a
clove of garlic into each cut along with a little of the mustard mix. Insert a clove into 3 of the cuts. Rub the meat well with a lemon, season with
salt and pepper, and place on the vine shoots that you have placed in an oven tray (if you have no vine shoots use a metal grill). Place the tray into
the oven for 5 minutes and then lower the temperature to 1800oC and continue to roast for 2 hours.

Ingredients (serves 10-12)

4 kilos lamb or kid
1 large lemon juice
3 cloves garlic
1 teaspoon oregano
3 Tablespoons mustard
3-4 cloves
Thick sea salt
Pepper

40

( 6 )

,
.
,
, .

6- 7
1
1 . .

( ,

).

, , , .

. .
2 . .
1 . .

Octopus baked in red wine

Cephallonia
Ingredients (serves 6)
1 octopus around 1 kilo fresh

garlic, pour the lemon juice, salt, pepper and oregano over the fish. Add cup
of water. Put the frying pan on the heat. Let it simmer uncovered for about 10
minutes. Optionally, you can add some chopped parsley.

, .

Cephallonia
into a frying pan next to each other and fry. Remove the oil and add the sliced

50 180 .

Sardines in garlic,
lemon and oregano
Clean the sardines by removing their entrails and heads; flour them and place

Ingredients (serves 6)
1 kilo fresh sardines
6-7 cloves garlic
1 lemon juice
1 teaspoon oregano
Salt

or frozen
2 bay leaves
3 garlic cloves unpeeled
teaspoon pepper

- waves of f lavour

10 .

the ionian islands

. .

( 6 )

Place the octopus into a bowl (if it is too large cut it into two, three, or even
more pieces). Pour in the wine or vinegar and let it marinade for half an hour.
Lay out some baking paper and place the octopus, bay leaves, pepper and garlic on it. Wrap it well and then wrap it again in tin foil, place it on an oven tray
and cook in the oven for 50 minutes at 1800oC. Unwrap and serve hot, sprinkled with some oregano and a little olive oil.

2 Tablespoons olive oil

1 cup vinegar or red wine

Pepper
Olive oil for frying

42

43

, . ,
.
, , , , ,
. , . ,
"".
. 2

( 6-8 )
1 ( )
3 . .
1 . .
8
2
1-2 . .
1 . .
2

Savoro
Ithaca
Clean the fish, wash and salt them in a sieve. Dust in flour, fry normally and place into an earthenware pot or fire-resistant dish.
Then, in a clean small pot, gently simmer the garlic and rosemary leaves in two cups of olive oil and a little water until the garlic softens. Add the
rest of the ingredients, gently mix and simmer until the sauce is reduced.
Pour the sauce over the fish until it is fully covered. It is best to let the fish marinade for 2 days before serving.

Ingredients (serves 6-8)

1 kilo fish (whitebait or red mullet-Mullus barbatus)
3 cups olive oil
1 cups strong vinegar
8 cloves garlic
2 small twigs of rosemary
1-2 cups black raisins
1 cup flour
2 bay leaves
Salt

44

,
, .
, , , , , ,
1 ""
.
, .

, .

( 6-8 )
1

3-4 .
1 ()
. ()
2 . . ( )

1 . .
1
1
2-3
1

1 . .

Sartsa
Zakynthos (Zante)
Saut the meat in a pot with the onion and olive oil until golden brown on all sides, then add the garlic and oregano, mix and deglaze with the
wine and vinegar.
Then add the warm water until the meat is covered, the cinnamon stick, cloves, bay leaf, tomato paste, salt and pepper, stir and let simmer on low
heat for about 1 hours and until juices and sauce are reduced.
Two minutes before taking the pot off the heat add the cubed cheese and let it simmer. This dish is served with fried potatoes, spaghetti or white
rice.

Ingredients (serves 6-8)

1 kilos cubed beef
3-4 Tablespoons tomato paste
1 large onion (optional)
teaspoon oregano (optional)
2 Tablespoons vinegar (optional)
glass white wine
1 cup olive oil
1 head garlic
1 cinnamon stick
2-3 cloves

46

1 bay leaf
Salt, pepper
1 cup cubed ladotyri

, , .
. (
), , .
, , , 25 ,
"" .

( 4-6 )
1
4-5
2
5

3-4
1-2
. .
2
1

Cauliflower sofigado
Zakynthos (Zante)
Cut the cauliflower into small pieces, clean, wash well and strain.
Heat olive oil in a pot and lightly saut? the cauliflower. Then add the spices (except for the salt and pepper), the onion and garlic, stir lightly and
deglaze with the red wine.
Add the tomato, salt and pepper, stir and let simmer, for approximately 25 minutes, until the sauce has reduced.

Ingredients (serves 4-6)

1 medium cauliflower
4-5 ripe tomatoes or 1 tin chopped tomatoes
2 medium onions grated
5 cloves garlic
Salt
Pepper
3-4 cloves
1-2 bay leaves
teaspoon cinnamon
2 small, hot, red peppers

48

1 glass wine

2-3
. , .
(
). .
, .

.
, . -
, .
. ,
.

40
1
1
1 . .
1 . .
3

. .
,
2 . .

2 . .

1 . .
4 . .

2 ( )

Croquettes
Ithaca
Ingredients (for 20 pieces)

40 big vine leaves

1 kilo beef mince
1 big onion, pulped
1 Tablespoon dill, finely chopped
1 Tablespoon parsley, finely
chopped
3 spring onions, finely chopped
cup rice
salt, pepper
2 cups beef stock
2 Tablespoon butter

kilo beef or mutton minced meat

egg and lemon sauce onto the meatballs in the pot, which you have removed
from the hot plate. Then return the pot to the hot plate, bring to the boil,
remove from the heat, shake lightly and serve immediately.

' .

drain.

lemon mix. Add gradually juice from the pot onto the egg mix. Finally, pour the

4 . .

1 cup boiled rice

they do not become undone. Cook for 20 minutes. Prepare the egg and

Ingredients (serves 5-6 persons)

each other on a shallow pot. Place a plate upside down on top of them, so

1 . .

Wash the vine leaves and soak in hot water for 2-3 minutes. Remove and

the yiouvarlakia and wrap each one in a vine leaf. Place them very close to

. 1-2 .

Yiouvarlakia (rice meatballs) in vine

leaves and egg and lemon sause

In a big bowl mix all ingredients (except for the beef stock and butter). Shape

Ithaca

50

1 . .

For the egg and lemon sauce

2 eggs (only the yolks)
the juice of a medium lemon

1 cup kefalotyri (hard, salty cheese),

grated

- waves of f lavour

, . 20 .

( 5-6 )

the ionian islands

( 20 )

Mix the rice and minced meat in a bowl and add all the herbs and spices.
Leave the mixture in the fridge for 1-2 hours so that it becomes firm. Remove
from the fridge and shape into long croquettes. Flour each croquette, dip first
into the beaten egg and then into the ground rusk and fry in ample olive oil,
until crispy and golden brown.

4 Tablespoon parsley, finely

chopped
salt
pepper
1 cup flour
2 eggs, beaten
4 Tablespoons rusk, ground
Olive oil for frying

51

( )

2 . .

1 . .

( 40 )
3
1

- ,

20 . .

5 .

. .

. ,
4-5 .).

, ,

15 . .

. .

Fitoures

Corfu
Wash the cumquats and remove their stalks. Place them in a pot and cover
them with water. When the water boils, lower the heat and let them simmer
for about 5 minutes. Strain in a sieve and rinse with very cold water. Place the
rest of the materials into a pot and let them boil for 20 minutes. Add the
cumquats. Lower the heat and let them simmer until the fruit are soft. Place
the two jars in water on low heat and let them simmer for 15 minutes. Take
them out and dry them. Pour the cumquats into the jars. Seal and store in a
cool place.

Zakynthos (Zante)
Ingredients (for two large jars)
1 kilo cumquats
2 cups sugar
1 Tablespoon xino (citrate)
cup water

3 litres water

This sweet is served as a treat at every festive occasion. Along

with pasteli (sesame and honey bar), these sweets are a 'must'
for any feast.

1 kilo thick semolina

Heat the water with the salt in a large pot. Then gradually add the semolina,

Ingredients
(for approximately 40 pieces)

1 pinch of salt
Sugar and cinnamon to garnish

- waves of f lavour

Cumquat preserve

the ionian islands

.
.

stirring so that it becomes cream-like. Then pour the cream into an oiled oven
tray, spread and let it cool (the paste should be no higher than 4-5 cm).
The following day cut into diagonal pieces and fry in hot olive oil on both sides.
Serve sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon.

52

53

Corfu

, .
.

Agiada Garlic sauce with bread, vinegar and almonds; served with fried
fish and vegetables.

,

.

Armyricha A plant that grows around lakes or sandy beaches; it is

boiled and the hard parts are removed; it is seasoned with oil and vinegar and served as an appetizer or a salad.

(, , , ..),
, .
, .

Venetian pastitsio A type of pie that includes layers of meat (game,

chicken, sausage, Mortadela cured sausage, etc), paste and bchamel
sauce, wrapped in sweet puff pastry. It is made to this day for special
occasions.

,
, , .
30 .

Sausage Pork ground with a lot of oregano and other spices, wrapped
in animal intestines, "braided" and smoked; it is left to mature for 30
days.

, , , , .

Mandolato (nougat) Glucose, honey, sugar, meringue, rosewater and

almonds.

Mandoles Roasted caramelised almonds.

, ,
, ( bianco ).

Bianco Fish cooked in a pot with lemon, garlic and pepper; no tomatoes are used; thus, it is given its name, bianco (Italian for white).

,
. ,
.
.

Bourdeto A dish with sea scorpion, tope (Galeorhinus galeus) or salted cod. It is made with sauted onion, and sweet hot red pepper. The
flavour can be enhanced with a broth of cheaper fish.

,
, ,
.

Omera Small sea plants, thoroughly washed to get rid of all sand, and
lightly sauted in vinegar, vegetable spices and lightly fried onions.

.
, , , .
.

54

Pudding Christmas dessert of British origin. Made with ground rusks,

sponge finger biscuits, eggs and milk. Variations on this dessert are
found throughout the Ionian islands.

( ,
), , , , .
.

Savoro Fried fish (preferably red mullet, whitebait or gopa [bogue]) in

a sauce of vinegar, oil, rosemary, garlic and raisins; it is usually made for
the feast of the Annunciation or on Palm Sunday.

,
, .
30 40 .

Salami Made from pork meat and fat cut into cubes, with garlic and
spices, wrapped in animal entrails and smoked; it is left to mature for
30 to 40 days.

, ,
.
.

Jinjoles or jijifa Small tasty fruit with an intense red colour and a pip;
consumed fresh, dried, boiled or baked in the oven. They can be preserved in jars for up to a year.

Tiganites (pancakes) Usually made on Name Days to treat guests

and, of course, on the eve of St. Spyridon's Festival.

Fogatsa A Corfu sweet usually prepared at Easter.

, ,
"" ,
, ,
.

Fresh beans, green peppers, aubergines and potatoes "bianco"

Cooked in black and white pepper, ample olive oil, finely chopped garlic, vegetable spices and lightly sauted onion.

()
, .
, .

Freskamenta (prickly pears) A sweet aromatic tasty fruit from prickly pear plants, very popular with Corfiots. It is eaten ice-cold, usually in
the mornings.

Cephallonia

.
,
. .

Aliada Mashed potato with an intense garlic flavour. It is made with

potatoes, olive oil, lemon and broth from salted cod or octopus. It is
served with boiled vegetables and traditionally accompanies fried salty
cod.

,

.

Eggs in tomato and wine sauce This dish would be similar to the eggs
and tomatoes made all over Greece; however, it differs because it
includes a generous amount of wine and, naturally, garlic.

. .

Zoupa This frugal dish for times of necessity is also prepared on Ithaca.
It is nothing more than fire baked bread covered in ample olive oil and
red wine.

,
( ). 34 , .

Lagoto A dish traditionally prepared with rabbit, which is nowadays

also made with hare or chicken, marinated for hours in red wine or
vinegar (more often in vinegar). It is baked with at least 3-4 whole heads
of garlic, tomatoes and excessive amounts of lemon.

, .

Veal procado Meat in tomato sauce, with holes poked into it and filled
with salt, pepper and garlic.

, .

Bakaliaropita (cod pie) Pie with handmade fyllo pastry filled with
desalted desiccated cod, rice and herbs.

..

Barboule Traditional sweet made with honey and almonds.

- waves of f lavour

Gastronomic Glossary

the ionian islands

55

"" .

Smerna (ray fish) The characteristic fish with a snakelike body and
tasty white meat which is grilled on Ithaca.

Rodoxydo Vinegar made from a specific variety of roses.

Rozoli Traditional liqueur made with cinnamon.

, . "" .

Octopus soup A completely unique taste of a different variation of

octopus, which we normally eat as an appetizer. Its strong aggressive
flavour is softened with macaroni added at the final cooking stage.

Ryzada Rice pudding.

Sirjirjoula Bread dumplings, which, naturally, like many others, include
wine in their dough. After being fried in plenty of oil they are sprinkled
with sugar and cinnamon.

Tzieria Entrails of lamb or kid usually fried with eggs.

, , . , .
, , , .

Strapatsada Eggs in tomato sauce, fried in local olive oil, salt, pepper
and feta cheese.

, .

Troufes (truffles) The most popular sweet on the island; it can be

found in two or three variations, white sprinkled with almonds or
chocolate sprinkled with truffles.

* .
( , ), ( ).

Tserepa* A cooking technique named after a traditional pot which is

rarely used nowadays. This is a clay lid (made with white clay, which has
been kneaded with goats hair so that it doesn't crumble easily1), with
which they usually cover the metal tray in which food is prepared (usually kid or chicken with potatoes, oil, oregano and garlic).

,
.

Chourmades (dates) An exotic name, but in reality they are a type of

fried melomakarona (syrupy Christmas sweet) that are covered in
syrup and sprinkled with plenty of nuts and cinnamon.

Zakynthos

( agliata).

Aliada Called also skordalia, a sauce made of garlic and potato mashed
with olive oil and lemon garlic sauce (from the Italian word agliata).

, , , .

Gemisto (stuffed) Chicken or rabbit stuffed with garlic, spicy ladotyri,

and chopped giblets, roasted in the oven.

Zakynthos lagana (flatbread) with wine Sweet bread with plenty of

raisins scented with aniseed and sprinkled with sesame.

, , .

Ladotyri (oil cheese) Fresh white cheese matured in oil, with a spicy
hot taste.

Manestra Soup with rice-like pasta.

- ,
,
.

Moustarda-mostarda A type of sweet sauce, a relic of Venetian cuisine, made both on Corfu and Zakynthos.

: , , .

Pantseta Served almost everywhere on the island: this is the soft part
of the pork belly, filled with cheese, peppers and tomatoes, rolled in
bacon.

, ,
, ,
, .

*
In one of the mountainous villages of Northern Ithaca, called Plateithria, there
is an area with clay; this clay is called koutelas and almost all tserepes on the
island were made with it by expert craftsmen.

.
, ,
.

Avrakoti (open) cheese pie As implied by its name, this cheese pie
uses no pastry. It is made with a thick gruel of butter, feta cheese,
kefalotyri, yoghurt and eggs baked in the oven.

,
.

Florentines Fluffy and crispy sweet, rich in almonds, which is baked in

the oven.

. , ,
.

Octopus pie An unusual recipe found in its simplest form in Ithaca. The
stuffing consists of octopus, rice, garlic and lots of spices.

Ithaca

,
, .

Gana Calamari ink, cooked in a pot with the calamari.

Zoupa Bread toasted in an open fire and dipped in olive oil and wine.

Babanada Dry bread soaked in a broth of pulses.

, .

Pinolia Pine nuts used in various stuffing mixtures, such as turkey stuffing.

, , .

Pudding A variation on the pudding, in the English style prepared on

Corfu and Cythera; the difference is that instead of semolina white
bread is used here.

,
.

Rago A type of ragout made with lamb or kid in red sauce, a whole
head of garlic and rich tomato sauce.

! , .
, .

Rovani Don't let the name fool you! It may look like traditional revani
(syrupy sponge cake) but it is made with honey and rice; it is used to
treat guests at weddings, christenings and celebrations.

, .

Skastes Stone crushed unripe olives.

- waves of f lavour

Bobota Traditional sweet which is usually made with corn flour and
raisins.

the ionian islands

56

( )
.

57

 . ' . .

Prentza Fresh feta-like cream cheese. In the past it was kept in

goatskins, hence its unique taste; it is served with grated tomato.

,
.

Beef ragout Zakynthos pastitsada, similar to that of Corfu.

Sartsoutsouni or Sartsitsoto Beef and pork sausage.

, , ,
.

Sgajeto Zakynthos dish made from entrails, mainly goat entrails, which
is also mentioned as the dish of Carnival Thursday, served in egg and
lemon sauce.

, , , .

Aubergine Skordostoumbi (crushed garlic) Sauted aubergines,

cooked in the oven with crushed garlic, tomatoes, oil and oregano.

, , .

Stuffes Spleen With rice, garlic and cheese.

. ,
.

Sofigadoura A type of potato yahni (pot stew) wild greens, pulses and
potatoes, cooked this way make one of the most common dishes on
Zakynthos.

, , , , .

Tsilikourda or Tsilipourdo Traditional magiritsa (soup with entrails),

where small pieces of the liver are boiled in a pot and sauted in oil,
clove, bay leaf, cinnamon and sometimes fresh tomato.

.
(
).

Fitoures A sweet mainly offered at weddings and festivals. Essentially,

they are fried "bites" of semolina sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon
(similar to the ladopita [oil pie] of Lefkada).

, ,
. , , ,
.

Frysa Whole meal bread, cut in half, toasted and then eaten slightly
wetted with water and vinegar; it is accompanied by olive oil, oregano,
grated tomato, capers and prentza.

58

Lefkada

.
, .

Artoi Large loaves of bread sprinkled with icing sugar and decorated
with crosses made with cinnamon. If you find yourself at the Feast of
Panagia Faneromeni (Revealed Virgin), you will have the opportunity to
try it.

( )
, , .

Zematoura Dry bread "bites" placed into a bowl (sometimes toasted

over an open fire beforehand) and soaked in the broth from beans or
lentils, salt, oil and vinegar.

Caposantes Scallops.

,
.

Kokotos This is the name for rooster on this island, which is usually
boiled into a soup or cooked in red sauce and served with spaghetti.

Loufes A waterfowl usually cooked in lemon sauce with lots of garlic

and rosemary.

,
. "" .

Mandolato (nougat) A sweet with a honey-like taste made with

crunchy almonds; it has a wonderful chewy texture. No one should
leave Lefkada without taking a few "slabs" of mandolato with them.

Nioko Thick rice shaped pasta.

Stuffed Pagouria Crabs stuffed with rice.

. .

Palamida (Atlantic bonito) on ceramic tile A common way to cook

palamida and eel in the whole of western Greece. A concave tile is
used.

, .

Pastitsaki Small sweets made with buttery dough and stuffed with
almonds, fluffy meringue and aromatic apricot jam.

2-3 , ,
( )
.

Riganada 2-3 pieces of stale bread, drenched in olive oil, vinegar (some
made it with roses) and plenty of ground oregano.

(, , )
, , , . 2-3
.

Raisin Savoro The classic way of preserving small fish (whitebait, koutsomoura, bogue) in a thick sauce made with garlic, black raisins, bay leaf,
vinegar and rosemary. It is better to eat them cold after 2-3 days.

,
.

Skasolia (popped olive) Small green olives crushed with a stone,

sweetened in water, then baked and matured in oregano.

,
.

Sofigado Slightly different from that of the rest of the islands: apart
from beef and plenty of garlic, it also includes quince.

Sfina Cheese Salty white cheese, similar to feta but harder.

Frygadelia Lamb liver and bolia (suet) on skewers and grilled over coal.

Havara Clams.

- waves of f lavour

Porpetes Fried meatballs.

the ionian islands

59



, , , , , , 257 . ,
, , , ,
, , .

.
, , , .
, , , , (, , , ) 1913 .
,
. . , - : , , , , . -

crete - waves of f lavour

, .
,

, .
. . , .

61

Crete
The Land
At the point were the three continents of Asia, Europe and Africa meet, lies the island of Crete, a place of rare beauty with steep
plateaus, fertile plains and vast sandy beaches; it's the 5th biggest island of the Mediterranean reaching 257 kilometers in length. It's an island full
of surprises and contrasts; visitors feel awe at first sight when they encounter its colorful scenery, the authenticity of inland hamlets, the warmth
and hospitality of local inhabitants, the abundance of products, the famous Minoan civilization, non-adulterated customs and excellent Cretan
cuisine which shaped the famous model of the Mediterranean diet.
concerning the first inhabitants consider people from Western Asia, Africa or even islands of the Aegean Sea.
The island's geographic location on the crossroads of trading routes to Cyprus, Egypt and Central Asia, in combination with its fertile ground
and abundance of products, has been decisive for its eventful history and numerous conquerors. Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Venetians, Ottomans
took control of Crete at various times, while later on, the island was ruled by the great forces of Italy, France, Russia and England; it was united
with the rest of Greece in 1913.
This diverse cultural influence left its marks on every aspect of life, thus affecting island gastronomy as well. Although the most important influence on Cretan cuisine originates from the Minoan Age. To this day, Cretan dishes have remained pretty much the same: olive oil, cereals, pulses, honey, wild greens and herbs. During Byzantine times the Cretans preserved their customs and domestic households preferred complicated

crete - waves of f lavour

According to mythology, the island's name derives either from Nymph Crete or from Zeus' son, the ancient king of the island Cretas. Theories

dishes in their cuisine which offered excellent taste. While governed by Venetians meat became a more expensive and a rare commodity. The
most important change in Cretan cuisine was when New-World products were introduced and, most importantly, when tomatoes came to the
island. During Ottoman occupation of Greece, the cultivation of cherries started, while earlier the Genoese had introduced the cultivation of citrus fruit brought from the East.

63

Nature on your ...

plate

, ,
, ,
.
. , ,
. ,
, .
.
.
,

, .
, , : ,
T ,
: , , , , , , ...
, , ,
.., ,
.

.
, , .

The climate and geomorphology have affected human productive activities as well the island's product, which, in an imaginative
and creative manner, have combined with the locals' cheerful attitude to form their dietary habits: Cretan cuisine is characterized
by a plethora of tastes and aromas and it is considered one of the
healthiest cuisines in the world.
On the island plains vineyards and olive groves prevail. Mellow
winters combined with dry, warm summers, as well as ample sunlight and cool northern winds from the Cretan Sea ensure perfect
viniculture conditions and excellent wines of unique flavour.
Viniculture on Crete is the most traditional in Europe, using old
grape varieties, the origins of which are lost in Antiquity and go
back to the Minoan civilization.
Soil and climate conditions favour olive tree growth, giving
olive oil a great aroma and a fruit-like taste; its organic and therapeutic abilities are the foundation of Cretan cuisine. It is no coincidence that the first cultivation of olive trees started on Crete and
from there it spread throughout the European Mediterranean
regions.
On Crete, cereals and pulses are grown to become ingredients which can be stored and used when weather conditions are
poor and it is not easy to search the land for food. Common culinary combinations are pulses with vegetables, pulses with meat
and pulses with fish, while housewives' imaginations invented new
ways of using pulses to make favokeftedes (fried split-peas balls)
and revithokeftedes (fried chick-peas balls), instead of keftedes
(fried meatballs).
Wheat is part of the staple island diet providing daily bread
and rusks as well as a number of basic home-made pasta dishes:
chondro, xinochondro, magiri, spaghetti, hiloftes, triftoudi, landouridi.
The island's fertile soil favours tree cultivation; there are chestnut trees, walnut trees, cherry trees, pear trees and others. Their
fruit is used in both cooking and sweet-making; when boiled with
sugar they make tasty traditional preserves.
On flat coastal parts of Crete they cultivate vegetables which
are dried in the hot summer sun and stored for winter use. Images
of courgettes, aubergines, ladies' fingers hanging on a string and
drying in the sun are a common sight in the alleyways of many villages.

, ,
. ,
, .. .
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Livestock farming takes place in high altitudes and mountainous areas where the land is dry and barren; animals bred are mainly sheep and goats and provide their meat, and unique dairy produce. Their meat is preserved in salt and made into apaki, siglina
and sausages among others, which are stored and preserved for
long periods of time.
In coastal areas, Cretan cuisine often includes fish. The
women's inventiveness has created original and tasty recipes such
as fish with ladies' fingers. Their habit for cooking fish with greens
originates from Byzantine cuisine and they often use the same wild
greens, such as wild fennel, leeks and so on.
Alipasta, fish preserved in salt, is a technique that arose from
the need to keep fish and seafood for longer periods of time and
for transporting it to inland areas away from the sea. Salt preserved cod was made this way and is called ftohogiannis [literally:
poor John's food]; it is cooked in a variety of ways, with pulses,
wild greens, pasta and dried cuttlefish.
Rural inhabitants have always made use of natural products
which are the basis of the famous traditional Cretan cuisine.
During harsh time of slavery and economic crisis, for example
when the Ottomans and Venetians occupied the island, fish, game,
and snails provided meals that helped local people survive; these
were cooked in various ways to create mouth-watering dishes.
Nothing was wasted: housewives cooked pumpkin seeds, the
roots of many vegetables, moloha (mallow) leaves or thistle bush
shoots. Even stinging nettles are used in Cretan cuisine: they are
made into sfougato or yahni or cooked in various other ways.
An exceptional product of Cretan land, honey, was the main
sweetener for many years, and even today it is used in the kitchen.
A typical example is meat cooked in honey, a dish made in western Crete, while the commonest dessert in areas where livestock
is bred is mizithra or graviera (gruyere) as well as all sorts of pies
covered in honey.
Finally, in Cretan cuisine an honorary position is held by a
number of herbs which grow all over the island and are used
either to add their aroma to various products such as table olives
and olive oil, or to enhance food flavour or to make enjoyable
herbal teas. Whether they have healing properties or not, these
bush-like plants may be the most representative features of
Cretan nature and landscape: they are small and "humble", lacking
impressive colours or forms; however, their variety is incredible
and their aromas intoxicating, evocative of intense feelings.

crete - waves of f lavour

64

65

Crete traditionally

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Crete has always been a privileged crossroads of culture and

trade. Closely connected to people's mentality and culture, their
customs, historic memory, locality and the land itself, Cretan cuisine manages to portray even the slightest culinary detail of local
products which are used to create a wide range of dishes: olive oil,
wild greens, vegetables, pulses, cereals, fruit and edible grains and
nuts.
Despite some very specific rules, there is ample freedom to
allow dozens of variations and equally tasty results. Dishes are
made using simple methods; ingredients are usually fried, boiled or
cooked yahni-style in the pot. Combinations are light but inventive. Ingredients used are always natural and seasonal, to ensure
they produce maximum effect and unique flavours.
Olive oil is the only fat source used from Minoan times to
date. According to archaeological findings, olive trees grew
throughout Crete since the mid and late Mesolithic age (2000
B.C.). It has been calculated that olive oil production during that
time was 11,000 tonnes, not to mention the massive amounts of
olives, which were then consumed much more than today. It
should be noted that there are olives which ripen on the trees
(stafidolies: 'raisin-like olives') and can be eaten without any processing whatsoever.
Wild greens are usually eaten either raw or boiled. During
most of the year every family dinner or lunch is accompanied by
a salad of at least eight types of wild greens. Their intense aroma
makes them ideal for stuffing small pies.
Vegetables are eaten raw, boiled or yahni, i.e. cooked in a light
tomato sauce. Tomato is not often used for sauces; most sauces
are clear and watery, usually limited to avgolemono (egg and
lemon sauce), lemonolado (oil and lemon sauce) or a vinegarbased sauce.
Pulses are mainly used during long fasting periods which are
strictly observed. They are often combined with fish or meat, and
they have maintained their Byzantine names, i.e. magiremata or
magiries.

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Main meat dishes are made with lamb, goat/kid, rabbit, poultry, and, during winter, pork. Even today goat-meat comes from
free range animals that graze on wild greens, herbs and young
shoots; this means that it is firm, succinct and hardly greasy.
What is worth mentioning is that in no other cuisine in the
world, not even in France, are snails enjoyed as much as Crete.
There are more than 25 dishes using snails as their main ingredient.
In the mainland at least, fish and sea food, whether preserved
in salt or not, are consumed in even smaller quantities than meat;
they are eaten boiled, fried or preserved in olive oil, vinegar and
aromatic herbs. On other hand, in coastal regions, ahinosalata (sea
urchin salad), kakavia (type of bouillabaisse) made with petropsara
(stone fish), htapodopilafo (octopus pilaf) and garidopilafo (shrimp
pilaf) and even crabs, and all sorts of shellfish are considered fantastic dishes. Possibly unique in Greece is the habit of inhabitants
of western Crete to eat seaweed.
Bread made for everyday use contains at least two types of
flour, wheat and barley while the main sweeteners used up to fifty
years ago were petimezi, grape juice preserved with honey.
Sweets are divided into four main categories:
Large and small pies made with different types of pastry, filled
with soft cheeses and covered in honey.
Fruit preserves.
Sweets that contain a lot of nuts such as walnuts and chestnuts such as Patouda, Karidopites, Amigdalota.
Various types of bread, which are made with white wheat
flower and many herbs and often kneaded with olive oil.
Meat and fish hold a lesser position in the Cretan diet than
dairy produce. Included in these is the famous Cretan xinochodros
which is nothing more than wonderful home made pasta based on
'broken' wheat and sour milk.
The Byzantines thought the Cretan cheeses were the best of
the Mediterranean, while large quantities were also consumed by
the Venetians, who had forbidden their export from the island.
Even today, the most popular cheeses are anthotiro (fresh soft
cheese), graviera (gruyere), kefalotyri (hard salty cheese) and the
sour mizithra from Chania.
Dozens of other products could be named, along with their
culinary variations, comprising a vast gastronomic treasure-trove,
which is the cumulative product of a long dietary culture. In a
miraculous manner, flavours, aromas and even names of Cretan
dishes travel unchanged through centuries.

crete - waves of f lavour

66

67

Festivals

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Major religious festivals and landmark social events are connected

to specific, usually complicated, dishes.
During Christmas, after the fasting period, meat, pork in particular,
holds a dominant position at the table. Housewives also prepare
Christmas bread, which is none other than Christopsomo (Christ's
bread) or Stavropsomo (cross bread), which stand out with their rich
decoration and individual designs, which differ from area to area. On
New Year's, kourambiedes, short bread biscuits covered in icing sugar,
and Vassilopita, St. Basil's pie, are prepared, while housewives make various sweets in each area, such as methysmena (drunk biscuits) in
Merabelo, xerotegana (pancakes) in Ierapetra and others. On the eve
of the Epiphany the usual dish is the palikaria (the lads), a dish that consists of various grains and pulses: lentils, chick-peas, beans, broad beans,
wheat. During Carnival they prepare the agnopites (pure pies) and
joulamas, a pie filled with entrails, nuts and raisins. At Easter the most
famous dishes are lamb, magiritsa (lamb entrail soup) and avgokouloures or lambrokouloures (sweet bread decorated with red eggs),
as well as kalitsounia, moon shaped sweets made with pastry stuffed
with raisins and nuts.
At social affairs, such as weddings, christenings and religious festivals,
the main dish is pilaf rice, while special types of bread are prepared and
decorated with a lot of skill and craftsmanship; these are the renowned
gamokouloura (wedding bread loaves) or xobliasta, decorated bread
loaves. Also, xerotegana (pancakes) and the amygdalota (marzipan) are
sweets offered at weddings and major social events. The drink offered
at weddings is soumada (orgeat, almond refreshment) as well as plenty of varieties of local wine.

"Farmer's August"

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- .

Every August, at the Venetian port in Chania, "Farmer's August" is

celebrated. This is an event that promotes Cretan diet, Cretan products and agro-tourism, and strengthening the ties between businessmen, traders, farmers, and consumers.

Sardine Festival

At the small port of Souda and Nea Hora of Chania they hold the
Sardine Festival in September; guests have the opportunity to sample
mouth-watering grilled sardines to the sound of Cretan music.

Chestnut Festival

- , .

In Prasse of Kydonia and in Elos of Kisamos the Chestnut Festival is

held every year around the end of October - beginning of November.
Chestnuts hold a special place in local cuisine.

Tsikoudia Festival

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,
.

In October the Tsikoudia Festival is held, organised by Chania

"Psiloritis" Dancing Club in partnership with Chania Prefectural Local
Authorities. A tsikoudia (local raki-like distilled drink) cauldron is set up
in the Old Chania Customs Office and guests enjoy warm tsikoudia
accompanied by rich traditional dishes. The same festival is also held in
November in Loutraki of Kydonia, in Kandano and Platania.

Wine Festival

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10
15 .
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Every year, in the first 15 days of July, at Daphnes of Irakleion, the

Wine Festival is held, with events that last from 10 to 15 days. During
the festivities, visitors can sample and enjoy good Daphnean wine for
free, taste rich local mezedes (appetisers) and dishes; traditional Cretan
music and dances by selected artists and different performers every
night add to the fun.
Wine Festivals are held during the summer in most Cretan villages.

Honey Festival

() .

Every summer, in August, the Honey Festival is held in Afrata of

Kolymvari; guests can try local honey of exceptional flavour, offered for
free by local honey producers, as well as other selected dishes and
good local wine, to the sound of the Cretan lyra.

Potato Festival

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.
: .
.

If you find yourselves in Lasithi near the end of August, do not miss
the three-day Potato Festival held in the village of Jermiado. You will
have the opportunity to sample potatoes cooked in various ways and
accompanied by the true necessities, i.e. wine and tsikoudia. You will
never forget potatoes baked in a wood oven, ofti (roast) potatoes and
traditional pork cooked in a stone oven by the village old boys.

crete - waves of f lavour

68

69

Watermelon Festival

In Harakas of Irakleion the Watermelon Festival is held every summer, accompanied by Cretan song and dance groups.

Cherry Festival

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.

At the end of May - beginning of June, the cherry festival is held in

the village of Sarhos. This includes a Cretan party, abundant consumption cherries from the trees in the area and, naturally, Cretan cuisine
dishes.

Eftazymo bread Festival

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.

In Krousta, every year following the 15th of August, the Celebration

of the Eftazymo, the "magic" bread, is held that is rarely made by housewives nowadays. However, it is the guest of honour at this occasion,
since housewives prepare the breads and hand it out to people; every
year festivities revolve around a different theme.

Blessing the herds in Asi Gonia, Chania

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This is a very special celebration organised only in Asi Gonia in

Chania, on St. George's Day. At dawn, farmers lead their herds to St.
George's Church, one by one, for the priest to bless their animals.
Along with the herds he also blesses the milk collected from the milking earlier that day, which is then given to the attending pilgrims. After
the blessing of the herds, which is usually completed in the afternoon,
there is a display of the icons of the Saint and the Resurrection, which
are then carried around in procession outside the church, followed by
a Mass. After the end of Mass a great party starts that lasts until late at
night with rizitika songs and dances.

Koures, Lamb shearing Festival

,
.

One of the most impressive festivals held in the last months of

Spring in every mountainous region of Crete, during which all farmers
breeding sheep invite their friends and family to help with the shearing;
a grand party follows with plenty of food and drink.

crete - waves of f lavour

Kazanemata (Cauldron Festival)

70

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.

In the autumn, raki production is cause for non-stop celebration

from one side of Crete to the other; the occasion is known as "kazanemata"(from the Greek word 'kazani' for the distillation cauldron). Raki
distillation is combined with mandinades (traditional Cretan rhymes),
songs and dancing, and above all, excellent Cretan mezedes.

71

 - the f lavours

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Wild greens kalitsounia

Wash and chop up the greens. Saut the spring onions in olive oil for 2-3 minutes. Add the greens that are not thoroughly dried. Stir, add salt,
lower the heat and cover the pot with a lid. Simmer for 20-30 minutes. If necessary add some water. Finally, add the pepper and cumin and stir
vigorously.
Empty the greens into a sieve and press lightly with a spatula to drain them of excess liquid and let them cool completely.
Using the ingredients above prepare a soft dough - not too watery. Let it sit for about an hour covered with a cotton towel.
Roll out thin pastry sheets, about 1-2 cm thick, and cut into circles, about 8-9 cm in diameter. Add a little of the stuffing with a fork. Fold into crescents and seal the sides with a fork.
Fry the pies in plenty of hot olive oil. As soon as they are slightly golden remove them from the frying pan and place onto absorbent kitchen paper
to remove excess oil. Serve hot.

72

( 30 )

Ingredients (for approximately 30 pieces)

For the pastry
1 kilo hard white flour
cup raki
1 pinch of salt
Warm water
3 tablespoons olive oil
For the filling
1 kilo finely chopped spinach
1 small bunch finely chopped fennel
1 cup finely chopped kafkalithres (Mediterranean hartwort - Tordylium Officinalis)
1 bunch sorrel
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
2 small bunches finely chopped spring onions
1 cup olive oil
teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon cumin
Salt
Olive oil for frying

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6
8
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1 . .

Tomatoes stuffed with rice and fennel

Open the tomatoes by slicing their top and using a small spoon carefully dig out their flesh. Sprinkle some salt into each tomato and turn them
over to strain them of all liquids.
In a large bowl pour the olive oil and the mashed tomato flesh, the onions, carrots, artichokes, courgettes, fennel, rice, oregano, sugar, salt and pepper. Mix the ingredients with your hands. Do not worry if the mixture is runny as a rich sauce will form in the oven tray.
Fill the tomatoes and cover them with the top of the tomato that you had cut off earlier. Place them in an oven tray and lay the vine leaves over
them so the tomatoes don't burn while cooking. Grate a large tomato over the vine leaves, pour olive oil over that and place the tray into the
oven.
Bake at 1500 C for about an hour and a half. In the last 15 minutes remove the burnt vine leaves and let the tomatoes turn slightly golden. Serve
this dish warm or at room temperature.

74

Ingredients (serves 6)
6 large rip tomatoes
8 tablespoons short grain rice
4 large onions, finely chopped
1 large bunch fennel (tender)
2 grated carrots
1 grated artichoke
2 grated courgettes
Tomato flesh of the emptied tomatoes
1 cup olive oil
1 teaspoon sugar
A little oregano
Salt
Pepper
7 large vine leaves
Olive oil for the oven tray

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Revithato

chick peas with veal or beef

This dish was usually prepared on the eve of weddings, in order to use up the entrails of the dozens of slaughtered animals, whose meat was to be enjoyed two days later -boiled or roasted - by wedding guests.
The same dish can be made with a white lemon sauce; instead of entrails you can use veal or pork.

Ingredients (serves 8)
1 cup olive oil and two Tablespoons olive oil
2 cups chick peas, soaked for 12 hours in water
1 kilo veal or beef, without bones, cut into small

Boil the chick peas in plenty of water for about 15 minutes and strain them in a sieve. Saut? the onion in olive oil for 3-4 minutes until lightly golden; add the meat, stir and seal lightly on all sides. Add 2 cups of water, cover with lid and let cook for 35-40 minutes.
Test the meat with a fork. When it is half-cooked add the strained chick peas, the tomato chunks and paste, diluted in half a cup of water. Stir the
food for 3-4 minutes adding salt and pepper. Add 7-8 cups of water, cover and cook for another 30-35 minutes.
Open the lid, lower the temperature, add the cumin, the lemon juice and zest. Stir and let simmer with the lid off for 3-4 minutes.
Serve hot or at room temperature with plenty of pepper.

pieces or entrails
1 large onion, grated
1 large ripe tomato, chopped into cubes
1-2 dessert spoons tomato paste
teaspoon cumin
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon lemon zest
Salt, pepper

76

2-3
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40 . ,
20-25 .

( 7-8 )
( 8 )
1
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1 . .
2
2

. -

1
6 - 7
1
1/2 . .
800 .

3 1

2

. .

Kid in egg and lemon sauce

with almonds
In a deep pot saut the onion in the olive oil for 2-3 minutes. Add the meat
cut into small pieces, add salt and pepper and saut until slightly golden on all
o

sides - do not burn. Add one cup of water, cover and cook at 1800 C for 40
minutes. When the meat is almost ready, add the whole almonds and cook for
another 20-25 minutes.
In the meantime prepare the egg and lemon sauce. Whisk the eggs in a deep
bowl and slowly add the lemon juice and the juice from the pot. Slowly pour
the egg and lemon sauce into the pot, stirring all the while. Serve hot.

,
.
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. .
.
.
1 .
, 45 50 .
. ,

.

.
.

Lamb and artichokes in egg

and lemon sauce
Ingredients (serves 8)
1 kilo kid meat
1 kilo fresh cool almonds, whole
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 cup olive oil
2 eggs
2 lemons
Salt
Pepper

78

crete - waves of f lavour

Ingredients
1 kilo lamb cut into portions
6-7 spring onions
1 small bunch dill
cup olive oil
800 grams artichoke hearts, fresh or
frozen
Juice of 3 lemons and 1 lemon finely
sliced
2 eggs
A little white flour or corn flour
Salt
Freshly ground pepper

If you are using fresh artichokes, peal the leaves off and keep the hearts.
Remove the fuzz and place into a bowl of water with the lemon slices.
Wash and dry the meat; season well with salt and pepper. Finely chop the
spring onions and dill. Heat the olive oil and lightly seal the meat with the
spring onions and dill. Add some warm water and simmer for 1 hour.
Then add the artichokes and simmer for another 45-50 minutes.
Finally, prepare the egg and lemon sauce: take the juice from the meat and
thicken it with some white flour or corn flour, and then add the eggs you have
beaten with the lemon juice.
Pour the sauce over the food and sprinkle with plenty of pepper.
Stir the food and shake the pot lightly.

79

.

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8-10 .
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200 30 .
180 10 .
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1
1
1

3-3

4 . .
1 . .

80

Cut the pork into pieces and salt 8-10 hours beforehand.
Place the pieces on the grill and put an oven tray with water at the bottom of
the oven. Initially roast at 2000oC for 30 minutes. Then roast at 1800oC for at
least an hour and ten minutes.
When the meat turns golden and it is well-cooked, empty the liquids from the
tray.
In a large clay vessel place all the dried herbs and set them on fire. Let them
burn for 1-2 minutes and then immediately place the vessel under the grill to
smoke the meat very well. If the herbs are not completely burnt repeat the
process, until the meat is well smoked.
Lay out 2-3 sheets of grease paper on a flat surface, spread some lemon leaves
onto them and then lay the hot meat on top of the leaves. Immediately wrap
the paper tightly and let the meat cool for at least 1 hour.
Serve the meat cold with plenty of salad.

.
(
), 180
30 . 30
200 10 40
180 .
.

Ofto roast with wine

and coarse sea salt

Kapriko
A very popular way to cook pork in certain villages around the
city of Irakleion. As it is very enjoyable when eaten cold and, furthermore, as it keeps for quite some time, it is sold at festivals
wrapped in grease paper.

crete - waves of f lavour

( 8 )

Ingredients (serves 8)
1 pork shoulder with bone
1 small bunch dried oregano
1 small bunch dried sage
1 small bunch dried thyme
Lemon leaves

Ingredients (serves 10)

3 kilos lamb cut into large pieces
4 cups red wine
1 Tablespoon salt

Put the meat into a bowl and wash well with the wine. Season with salt and
place on the oven grill (in the centre of the oven); cook at 1800oC for thirty
minutes. Then raise the temperature to 2000oC for 10 minutes and return to
1800oC for another 40 minutes. Serve the meat hot accompanied with oven
roast potatoes or a green salad.

Salt

81

( 6 )

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.

1
1

20 - 25

clean it. Wash the intestines and turn them inside out using a stick or a knitting
needle. Wash them again and scrub them with the lemon juice, salt and flour.
Cut the belly into small pieces and wrap each one in one of the intestines until
it is completely covered. Tie the end off (with the same piece of intestine) so
that it does not unravel.
Prepare the gardoumia as described above. Place them in a pot and saut in
olive oil with the spring onion. Add 1 cup of water and let half cook for about
three minutes. Add the tomatoes, salt and pepper, let boil and then add the

82

courgettes. Let it cook for another 20 minutes on low heat. Serve hot.

1/2 . .

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1 . .

3 . .

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5 .

5 .
, .
,

1


1
1 . .
1-2
, .

.
.

Chochloi bourbouristoi

Gardoumakia entrails
with courgettes
Wash the belly well, place into boiling water and scrape it well with a knife to

crete - waves of f lavour

( 8 )

.
.
3-
,
. 20
. .

potted snails
Ingredients (serves 6)
For the gardoumakia
1 kilo sheep entrails 1 onion
Salt
Lemon
1 tablespoon flour
1 kilo gardoumia
kilo fresh tomatoes, cubed
1 kilo courgettes
1 cup olive oil
1-2 onions
Salt
Pepper

Ingredients (serves 8 persons)

20 - 25 fat snails
1/2 cup olive oil
1 even Tablespoon salt
3 Table spoons red wine vinegar
1 small twig rosemary

Clean and wash the snails thoroughly; remove the membranes from their shell
and mouth. Spread half the salt on the frying pan and place the snails on it,
their opening facing down. Place the frying pan on the hot plate and simmer,
without adding olive oil or water for 5 minutes. Then add the olive oil and let
the snails cook for another 5 minutes. Stir with a fork, add a bit more salt and
the rosemary and vinegar. Cover with a lid and let them cook a bit more.
Remove from the hot plate.
Snails are served hot with their gravy.

83

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1 . .
30 .
1 . .

, . 60-70 .

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1 . .
2 . .

, 100 , 5 .
25-30 , . 180 55-60 .

Wheat bread

migadero

Mix the yeast into some warm water and add some of the white flour to create a thick paste. Cover with a cotton towel and let the dough double in size and start rising.
Add to this risen dough the spices, sugar, salt, olive oil, and a little warm water. Mix all the ingredients using your hands and then gradually add all
the types of flour. Meanwhile knead until the dough becomes soft and uniform; however, it should be slightly heavy due to the wheat and barley
flour.
Empty the dough into a bowl and cover with two cotton towels. Leave it in a warm place at a steady temperature, until it doubles in size. It should
take about 60-70 minutes.
When the dough has doubled in size empty it onto a slightly floured surface and knead it with quick movements for 4-5 minutes. Divide it into 3
pieces and shape into small loaves.
Place the loaves onto slightly oiled oven trays and put them into an oven that was preheated for 5 minutes at 1000oC. Leave the bread in the
oven for 25-30 minutes, so that it starts to rise again. Then immediately bake at 180 degrees for another 55-60 minutes.

84

(2 )

Ingredients (for 2 large loaves)

1 cups extra virgin olive oil
3/4 kilo soft white flour
kilo wheat flour
1 cup barley flour
30 grams fresh yeast
1 teaspoon cumin
3 nuggets mastic, crushed
1 teaspoon salt
2 Tablespoons sugar

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2 . .

1 . . 2 . .
. .
2
1 . .
. .


2 . .
1 . .
1 . .

Fried melomakarona
Dissolve the yeast or leaven in a cup of warm water. Add the olive oil, orange juice, cinnamon, mastic, sugar and salt. Mix them all together with
your hand into an opaque mixture.
Add a cup of warm water to the mixture and then slowly add the flour, while mixing with your hand at the same time, until absorbs the liquid and
mixes into dough. If necessary, add more water or flour, to desired thickness. The dough must be fluffy but firm, like bread dough should be.
Dust with flour and place into a bowl. Cover with a cotton towel and leave in a warm place so that the dough doubles in size (it will take approximately 20-30 minutes).
Cut the dough into small pieces (about the size of a peach). Roll into long strips about 10-12 cm long; shape them into rings. "Cut" the strips diagonally every 3-4 cm; cover them with a towel, until they double in size. Fry in plenty of olive oil, until golden. Place them on absorbent paper towels, in order to strain them of excess olive oil. You can garnish them with plenty of crystallised sugar or pour petimezi over them or immediately
dip them into the syrup and sprinkle them with sesame.

Ingredients (for app 30 pieces)

1 kilo soft flour
2 Tablespoons olive oil
Juice of 1 small orange
1 Tablespoon yeast or
2 Tablespoons leaven
teaspoon cinnamon
2 nuggets mastic, powdered
1 Tablespoons sugar
teaspoon salt
Olive oil for frying
For the syrup
2 cups sugar
1 cup honey
1 cups water

86

For the sprinkling

Sesame, crystallised sugar or petimezi
(preserved grape juice)

. . 3
. .

( 45 )
7
1200 .

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Bergamot preserve
Wash the bergamots well. Grate them on a cheese grater so as to remove their skin. Cut into 3 pieces and peel. Remove all fibres from the inside
of the skins until clean. Take the peeled pieces and cut into 2cm strips, place them into a large pot or bowl and cover with water. Because they
float, place a plate on top of them inside the bowl to keep them submerged.
Bergamots are very bitter and the following process must be followed to get rid of excessive bitterness. If you like the bitter taste, leave them in
water one day less than recommended.
On the same day: Bring them to the boil for 2-3 minutes. On the first day empty the water, add fresh water and boil again for 2-3 minutes.
Continue the same process until the fourth day. On the last day, after boiling them for 6-7 minutes, empty the water and add fresh water and the
juice of 1 lemon and boil again for 10 minutes. Take them off the heat and let them cool down completely. Strain well. Put them back into the pot
and add sugar and water. Leave them for half an hour for the peel to get rid of excess liquid. Bring to the boil and lower the temperature; let simmer for 15 minutes. On the next day, boil again, lower the heat and let the preserve simmer with the lid half closed. If froth rises, remove it and
stir regularly for about an hour until the syrup thickens. Finally, add the last of the lemon juice, stir and let it cool down completely. Then place into
jars that seal well.

88

Ingredients (for approximately 45 pieces)

7 bergamots
1200gr sugar
Juice of 1 lemon
1 cups of water
Juice of a lemon

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( 40 )
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15
1 . .
2 . .

1
1
2 . .
4 . .
1 . .

Anevata kalitsounia
Dissolve the yeast in a cup and a half of warm water. Gradually add half the flour until you have a very soft dough, which sticks to your hands.
Cover the dough with a cotton towel and let it sit in a warm place for 3-4 hours to rise.
Pour the sugar into a bowl, along with the olive oil, eggs and yoghurt and knead them with your hands until they are well mixed. Add the risen
dough with 1 more cup of warm water.
In the rest of the flour mix the vanilla and the powdered mastic. Add it to the dough and knead well, until soft and fluffy; it should not stick to your
hands.
Cover the dough with a cotton towel and let it double in size.
Prepare the filling by mixing the mizithra with the honey, sugar, egg and cinnamon.
Divide the dough into small pieces and roll out a thin pastry sheet; using a circular pastry cutter cut 5cm diameter discs of pastry, which you then

Ingredients (for app 40 pieces)

1 kilos flour
1 cup olive oil
1 cup sugar
2 eggs
1 carton of yoghurt
A pinch of vanilla
teaspoon mastic
15 lemon leaves
1 cup white sesame
2 Tablespoons fresh yeast

fill with a tablespoon of filling. Fold the pastry on all four sides so that no filling is visible to get a rectangular shape.
Let the kalitsounia rise. When they are ready, use a brush to wet them with egg and sprinkle them with sesame.
Bake them in a preheated oven at 1800 C until golden brown.

90

Put the kalitsounia on a dish with the lemon leaves separating them.

For the filling

1 kilo mizithra
1 egg
2 Tablespoons sugar
4 Tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon cinnamon

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1/2
,
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Sarikopites

pies

Empty the flour into a bowl. Make a hole in the middle and pour the salt, olive oil, lemon and, slowly, the water into it. When the dough has been
mixed, check the texture with your hand and add more water or flour, accordingly. The dough must be homogenous and fluffy.
Divide the dough into 5 small balls. Dust a flat surface with flour and roll each ball out into a pastry sheet, quite thin, but not transparent.

Ingredients (for 30 pieces)

For the pastry

Cut into long thin strips about 7-9cm wide and approximately 30cm long. Spread the cheese along the middle of the pastry leaving a margin of 3-

kilo hard flour

4cm on each side. Fold the two sides over the filling in the middle creating a "roll".

teaspoon salt

Starting from one end coil the roll loosely like a rope. Fry the pies in plenty of olive oil, enough to cover them, so that the dough rises and
becomes crunchy. Put the pies on absorbent paper to drain excess oil. Serve the pies covered in honey.

3 Tablespoons olive oil

Juice of half a lemon
1-2 cups warm water
Olive oil for frying
For the filling
kilo of sour goat cheese
Honey (optional)

92

Gastronomic Glossary
of Crete

. ,
.

flavour and it is called anthotyro. When it dries up and hardens a bit, it is

grated over spaghetti that has been boiled in meat broths.

, , .

Xinomizithra (sour mizithra) This is a soft cheese with quite a tart

flavour, and a creamy or grainy texture; it is mainly used to fill sarikopita
or kalitsounia.

""
.
. 4-5
.

Antikristo (facing each other) Perhaps the most "primitive" yet tasty
way to cook meat. Large pieces of meat, usually lamb or kid, are fixed to
thin branches/sticks around a large fire. The meat is slowly cooked by the
heat of the flames for 4-5 hours.

.
.

Xerotigana Thin strips of dough which are wrapped into a spiral shape
and fried in plenty of olive oil. They are served in honey and sprinkled
with sesame.

,
,
, , , .

Xobliastes gamokouloures (decorated wedding loaves) Small works

of art, these bread loaves are made by experienced women and decorated with small flowers, leaves, trees and human figures, all made out of
dough.

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, .

Ofto (roast) Meat from one-year-old animals, zygouri (mainly sheep) or

goat, which, after well seasoned with salt, and roasted as is or on vine
shoots in a wood burning stone oven.

.
.

Anopolitiko paksimadi (Uptown rusk) An excellent semi-sweet rusk

which is made only in Anopoli (Upper Town) of Sfakia and in Askyfo. The
unique taste is due to the generous amounts of grated coriander it is
flavoured with.

,
, , .

Apaki Smoked pork griskin, very tender, eaten uncooked as a meze

(appetizer), or can be used with wild greens to make a tasty omelette.

. , .

Eptazyma (rusks) Rusks made with leaven made from ground chick
peas. Only made in Irakleion, Agios Nikolaos and Sitia.

, .

Patouda A dessert of Eastern Crete made with crunchy little rusks filled
with a mixture of ground raisins, almonds, and orange zest.

,
( ) . .
, , ( ) .

.

Kalitsounia Kalitsounia in Setia, Irakleion and Rethymno are made with

sweet mizithra (soft cheese) or with a mixture of sweet and sour
mizithra. They are either sweet or slightly sour. They may be shaped like
small oil-lanterns and are then called lychnarakia (little lanterns), or into
triangles (usually the case with anevata) and look like folded handkerchiefs. In Chania, kalitsounia are savoury: they are made with wild greens
or spring onions or a mixture of cheeses and plenty of spearmint.

, . .

Chania Pikrogalo (Sour milk) Slightly sour soft cheese with creamy texture and a fresh flavour. It is made exclusively in the Prefecture of Chania;
it is the main ingredient in kreatotourta (meatcake) and boureki.

7-10 : , , , , , , .

Karteraki A mixed infusion made with 7-10 different herbs: dittany, sage,
pennyroyal, spearmint, savory, thyme, and chamomile.

, ,
.
, (20-30 % ).
10-15 .

Raki A unique drink, full and rambunctious, which is made from the leftovers of grapes. This spirit contains double or triple the quantity of alcohol than wine (20%-30%). In fact, the strongest raki is that produced in
the first 10-15 minutes of the kazania (distillation) and it is called protoraki (first raki).

, , . ,
, .

Kefalotyri Hard cheese, made exclusively from sheep's milk, with an

exceptionally spicy flavour. If the aging process has taken place in the mitata (shepherds' "den") high on the mountains, then it is called tyri tis trypas (cheese of the hole).

. .

Sarikopita Fried spiral shaped pies filled with sour mizithra and served
with honey. They have taken their name from the characteristic Cretan
handkerchief that is worn on the head and is known as a sariki.

.
, .

Koukouvaya (Owl) The other name of the renowned Cretan dakos. A

circular barley rusk, soaked in water and served with olive oil, grated
tomato and a little feta or sour mizithra sprinkled on top.

, .
, , .

Skari, the fish of the Cretan sea The most widely known species in
Greece is the Cretan skaros (Euscarus Cretensis). It is grilled with its
entrails, if it has been fished early in the morning, or cooked in a pot with
tomato sauce.

.
.

Malaka A solid but soft cheese that is very similar to Italian mozzarella. It
has a neutral sweet taste and rubbery texture and it is made exclusively
during Spring.

, ,
, . , .

.

Staka A creamy cheese with a soft flavour, which is made with the tsipa,
which is the skim of the milk. During its production a slightly yellow cream
is formed, surrounded by butter. The cream is eaten warm on bread,
while stakovoutiro (staka butter), is used in cooking, mainly in pilaf dishes
or for frying eggs.

, 20-30 .
.

Menouzes It is very similar to what, in the rest of Greece, is called kokoretsi (entrails barbecued on a spit), only this is made on very small spits,
20-30cm long, and it is a little thicker.

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Tsakistes (broken olives) Medium, green, unripe olives whose flesh is

"broken", usually using a stone or a metal object. They are kept in water
mixed with lemon or Seville orange juice.

, , .

Boureki It is a type of salty pie which we is only found in Chania; it is usually filled with grated courgettes, potatoes, sour mizithra or
pichtogalo(thickened milk), and spearmint.

.
.
. , ,

Mizithra or Anthotyro This is a white, soft and sweet cheese with quite
a high fat content. It is made with sheep's or goat's milk or a mixture of
the two. It is served as an accompaniment to the main meal or with
honey and dried fruit and nuts. When its exterior layer is salted and it is
left to age while breathing, it hardens, takes on a peppery and condensed

. ( )
. , , .

Tsiladia This is what is known as pichti in other parts of Greece. Pieces

of pork (head and trotters) are simmered to make a thick, jelly-like broth.
It is spiced with cumin, Seville orange juice, bay leaves and mainly consumed as a Christmas appetizer.

.
.

Tyrozouli This is usually a small domestically produced cheese made

from goat's milk. It is semi-hard and has a very pleasant taste.

crete - waves of f lavour

94

95



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cyclades - waves of f lavour

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97

Cyclades
The Land
The Cyclades islands are spread over an 8,000 sq/km sea area in the middle of the Aegean; they are a complex of 56 small and large
islands, the result of volcanic eruptions, singularly scenic, with wild and imposing beauty, distinctive architecture; they are rich in culture,
heritage and tradition, of exquisite natural beauty and offer unforgettable gastronomic pleasures that enchant all visitors.
According to mythology, the Islands received their name from the Nymphs of the same name who enraged Poseidon, the God of the Sea,
winds that forced ships to or sail round and round or because they form a circle around Delos, the holy island of Antiquity, a place where
Apollo was worshipped.
These islands have a turbulent past, as over time they were a point of interest for various raiders who would every so often come
down to the Mediterranean from the north, influencing culture, architecture, and the islands culinary traditions. Specialties such as tsiladia
(fish or pork jelly-like dish) and matsata might echo Italian flavours, but have ancient roots.
The settling of Catholic populations brought to the islands western crop customs as well as cow-raising, while the Venetians introduced
the systematic breeding of pigeons, which led to the construction of masterpieces such as the pigeon houses on Tinos and other islands.
Chios refugees who arrived at Syros imported the technique for making Turkish delight, which was developed by the residents of Syros
into what is at present the highly sought after Syros delicacy (loukoumi).

cyclades - waves of f lavour

who turned the nymphs into rocks. According to another theory, they got this name from the word circle (cyclos) due to the driving

Standing in between mainland Greece, Africa and Asia, these islands were a bridge for the development of commerce and shipping and
for the dissemination of culture. During the 4th millennium B.C. they developed the renowned Cycladic civilization, which radiated throughout the Aegean.
Traditional arts with a long history and many workshops for basket weaving, textiles, and ceramics provided their own contribution to
folk culture as well as a plethora of products one can find on all islands.

99

 , ,

The geomorphology of the islands, in combination with their cli-

mate, defined the form of the farmland and the occupations of local

. ,

people. The rough, dry and arid soil had to be transformed into

arable land in order to feed local families. This brought about the sin-

( "" "", -

gular scenery with its stepped terrain (also known as stairs or

). , 4 .. , -

trafi, as called by the locals). This technique, which was already

known in the 4th century B.C., turned the sharp mountain sides into

, -

small pieces of flat land; the soil was retained and not washed away

""

by rain; the produce is planted on the inside of the steps in order to

protect them from the strong northern winds and to retain moisture.

. -

The land and climate favoured tree cultivation, mainly olive trees,

which grow even on barren land, and grapevines, which grow every-

, , .

where.

The dry rocky terrain of the islands and the limited raw materi-

als - which have remained the same almost since antiquity (barley,

(, , , , ),

wheat, arid vegetables, wild mountain greens, pulses) - have shaped

. -

Cycladic cuisine. The imagination and ingenuity of women led to the

creation of different flavours and provided variety at the daily table

using the few products provided by Cycladic land.

Thus, they used the wild greens and aromatic herbs that grow in

abundance on the barren land and harmoniously combined them

with meat and fish. This was how the renowned pseftokeftedes (fried

. -

fake meatballs, i.e. meatballs made with wild greens rather than

( ), , ,

mince) came about, using vegetables, pulses and anything one could

. ,

think of. Chick peas are used in soup, but if they are ground with

onions and herbs they turn into revithokeftedes (falafel), while, if they

, , -

are mixed with sesame pulp, they become revithosalata (humus), with

. -

influences from Eastern Mediterranean. On Naxos they fry squash

slices with onion and make eggless omelettes, while kolokythopastit-

, -

sa (squash pulp) on Anafi is mixed with spices and fried like meat-

. -

balls. Pies are honoured here with various types of filling.

- .

100

Nature on your...
plate

Nothing is wasted in the Cyclades. Even roses are turned into

. -

rodozahari and are used in every batch of loukoumi, while caper

leaves are prepared with vinegar and are excellent accompaniments

, -

to various dishes.

The limy soil favoured the growth of almond trees and this is

why the Cycladic islands are famous for their almond sweets (marzi-

, -

pan), while their bitter fruit gives a unique aroma to soumada, the

wedding drink. Also, the orange-colourd stamens of wild crocus (saf-

, -

fron), which bloom after the first autumn rains on the slopes of Anafi,

give their aroma to savridia and Easter sweet breads on Santorini,

, , -

while capers, these tiny green peas born of dry earth, hang on the

rocks sprayed by the waves and give a singular flavour to any dish.

While farming has always been disadvantageous, due to the lack

of fertile land and plains and due to the north-eastern winds, stock

rearing is what always openly offered its products, mainly meat and

milk. The animals graze on the little grass, which, along with the sea

wind, provide rich and tasty milk from which many different cheeses

are prepared. The islands isolation and the harsh winter weather, in

combination with the few products the land provides, made the res-

idents of the Cyclades invent various ways of preserving products.

Thus, the meats are salted to keep throughout winter and are made

, -

into sausages, siglina, and louza. The meat is first soaked in wine but

it then needs to be smoked for more protection. Tomatoes are

dried in the sun, capers are spread and salted on large cutting boards

, , .

and then placed in jars and kept on shelves.

. -

An occasional place in their diet was held by game, since the

islands are rest stops for birds. Pigeons are cooked and served to this

day, while in the past they were preserved in jars with vinegar and

exported to Smyrna, Istanbul and other places.

. -

Shrubs and thyme provide excellent honey, a basic ingredient of

, -

the Cycladic diet and the raw material for numerous desserts, such

, -

as the well known halvadopita (halva pies) and pasteli (sesame bars).

cyclades - waves of f lavour

The sparse greenery turned the island residents to the sea and
fishing. Fish were a means of survival on this infertile land. They are

salted and dried in the hot sun or furred in order to be kept

throughout the winter.

.
To
.
. .

101

Cyclades... traditionally

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,
... , , .
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, ,
,
, ...

Travelling around the Cyclades through its culinary routs, fresh

aromas will enchant you; disarmingly simple dishes composed of
fresh vegetables and wild greens soaked by the sea air will impress
you. Fish and seafood give out a wonderful aroma of the sea gardens, barbecued in the most sparing way imaginable... or grilled or
boiled, uniquely combined with garden greens.
Clear sauces, well-boiled mushy pulses, arid greens, as water is
sparse, bread and rusk with mature, robust flavour kneaded with
local varieties of wheat and barley, wet goat cheeses, ideal for
puffy pastries, in thin dough, reminiscent of ancient Greek placentas, altogether compose an appealing map of gastronomic itineraries with numerous tasty treasures in stock...

:
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Here is a first taste of Cycladic specialties:

On Andros, try the pies with various wild greens, fourtalies
(omelettes), the most characteristic dish on the island; the commonest is made with eggs, potatoes, sausages and glina (pork fat),
or goat and cow cheeses, such as malahto, armexia, and manousos
cheeses. If you are lucky enough to find yourselves on Andros at
Easter, you must try the lambriatis i.e. Easter stuffed goat. Andros
has a long tradition in confectionary; it is renowned for its tiny
almond sweets with rosewater and the pastitsakia (marzipan), as
well as rolled Seville orange and bergamot preserve.
On Amorgos try the most characteristic dishes of local cuisine,
i.e. patatato, meat in red sauce (usually goat) with potatoes, and
xidato, a type of pig-trotters soup. Do not leave the island until
you have tried local pasteli (sesame and honey bar). It is mainly
served at weddings on a lemon tree leaf, sprinkled with a little
cumin, and traditional rakomelo, raki boiled with honey.
Ladenia may be the only kind of Greek pizza. Made with puffy
pastry, fresh tomatoes, onion, and olive oil on Kimolos! Other
tasty delicacies of the island are tyrenia, made with breadtype
dough, elenia with Coronian olives, rusks with skinokoko, excellent
honey, xino (sour fresh mizithra cheese), spicy manoura, crunchy
little cucumbers, capers, and paste made from local tomatoes.

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One of the first things you should do upon arriving in Naxos

is to try its cheeses, its famous cow gruyere, and, of course,
arsenikotyri, a hard yellow spicy cheese with a robust flavour. The
tradition of the pig slaughtering is still kept alive, especially in the
villages on the interior of the island, where, to this day, they make
the unique smoked zamboni as well as sausages and tsiladia with
capers and vegetables. Other typical Naxos dishes are patoudo,
stuffed lamb with various aromatic greens (white beets, spinach,
apulum (tordylium officinales), raisins, liver and rice), boiled zoula,
which is old goat with aromatic and firm meat, and potatoes pentarates, small fresh Naxos potatoes sliced into wheels in their skin
and fried in plenty of olive oil with a lot of onion and sprinkled
with a generous amount of pepper. Of the liqueurs, the most
famous drink of Naxos is Naxos citrus liqueur.
In the homeland of Nikolaos Tselementes, Siphnos, revithada,
chickpea stew, reigns. It is cooked in a ceramic dish on low heat
for 10-12 hours with a little olive oil, one or two finely chopped
onions and a few bay leaves. This dish is taken to the bakery on
Saturday night by most housewives on Siphnos, each using her
own ceramic dish, which usually has her name written on it, and
they pick it up the next day after church in order to serve it to
their family hot. Siphnos Easter dish is also cooked in a special
ceramic vessel, the mastelo, and it is tender meat of lamb or young
goat with wine and fennel or dill. There is also an impressive selection of well fried fake meatballs, made of chickpeas (falafel), courgettes, wild greens, split peas and taramas (salted fish roe paste), as
well as other dishes and desserts, such as cheese pie with xinotyri
(sour cheese) or wet manoura, honey pie, almond sweets, and
bourekaki.
The hidden charm of the small Cycladic island of Serifos, with its
arid vineyards and the ruins of mineral mines, echoing of the islands
flourishing past, is literally unprecedented. The typical dish of the cuisine
of Serifos is revithada (chickpea stew) with raisins and pork, caper casserole, as well as the unique sour wild cherries, with their aromatic flesh
that makes an amazing preserve.
Folegandros is an arid and barren island, with rough terrain. Despite
the adverse conditions, local housewives, undaunted, used their imagination to create recipes with unique flavours, such as the various types
of kalasounes pies, of which the most distinguished ones are kremmydopita (onion pie) with its spicy flavour and the sweet adiaggourenia pie,
made with watermelon flesh, flour, sesame and plenty of honey. The
residents of Folegandros took advantage of milk, as there are many
sheep and goats on the island, and created souroto, a spicy soft cheese,
which is used instead of feta in various salads and honey pies.
The gastronomic map of the islands of Kythnos and Kea or Jia is
coloured by the ever present fish, as well as other dishes, like the sfouggato of Kythnos, a type of cheese croquette, Jias own paspalas (pork
lard), cooked with tomatoes and eggs like an omelette, as well as the
wonderful pasteli (sesame bars)of Jia.

cyclades - waves of f lavour

102

103

Milos, the island of Aphrodite, has uniquely flavoured dishes.

The koufeto is the islands wedding sweet par excellance, and it
is ased on sweet squash which is grown almost everywhere. You
can also try wonderful fish kakavia, a type of bouillabaisse soup,
goats cheeses, manoura, touloumotyri, and xinomyzithra (sour
mizithra cheese), pitarakia cheese pies, with manoura and freshly
ground pepper or with mizithra, salt, egg and spearmint, and in
their sweet version with mizithra, sugar, egg and cinnamon, or
with dry Milos cheese and finely chopped onion. On the island,
at the end of the summer, when watermelons are less sweet,
they make the karpouzenia or karpouzopita, which is made with
very thin pastry and must have a lot of honey.
One of the most famous mezes of Paros cuisine is the
renowned gouna, which hangs outside almost every ouzo tavern
on the island. These taverns are also a good place to find sundried octopus as well as dozens of kinds of meatballs made with
fish or onions, accompanied by ouzo or wine, the famous souma.
Paros is also known for the delicate flavours of stingrays, which
are a special favourite here, as well as all sorts of pies filled with
wild mountain greens, squash and mizithra. Finally, try the
crunchy Paros rusks baked in wood burning ovens in Lephkes,
the islands cheeses, and especially the spicy ladotyri, the
touloumisio, the gruyere and the kynomyzithra.
On Antiparos the wonderful Patido is famous, which is rooster stuffed with bread, raisins and kefalotyri, a hard and salty
cheese.
Sweet halvadopites (sesame paste sweet) that were first
madeoin Syros in 1840 are considered the emblem of the island,
along with loukoumi (Turkish delight). During winter, the most
well known dish on the island is louza, sausage with fennel seeds,
roasted meat cuttings, syglina with tomatoes. The most classic
seafood dish of the island, however, is fried horse-mackerel or
mackerel in tomato and dried caper sauce. Also sample marathopita (fennel pie), pastelaries (dried figs with sesame and cinnamon) and the islands most famous cheese, the San Mihali, a hard
and spicy cow milk table cheese.
On cosmopolitan Myconos, one of the best known dishes is
mostra made with kopanisti cheese and tomatoes. This is a black
barley rusk that looks like the Cretan dakos and it is accompanied by kopanisti cheese, tomato, olive oil, oregano and, naturally, salt. The islands trademarks are the peppery cheese and the
spirtoza kopanisti (piquant cheese), as well as xynotyri and trovolia. Unique aromas characterise louza and throumbi sausages,
while ground pastry kremmydopita (onion pie), tsimbita kalitsounakia and the wonderful almond sweets with rosewater have
a singular flavour.
On Tinos, the island of Virgin Mary, the main summer green
is caper, spread out fresh and lightly salted on large boards. It is
used to make a lovely cherry bean salad, as well as other impres-

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sive dishes, such as sun-dried tomato pancakes, varkoules (little

boats) with halved courgettes, slightly sour bchamel sauce, fluffy
fried potato balls and the wonderful sweet cheese pies of Tinos,
the lychnarakia (Easter cheese pies in the shape of ancient oillamps).
The thick syrup made from grapes, petimezi, is turned into an
original, spicy sweet and sour sauce called savori, with which they
cover small fish such as bogue, ruff and whitebait.
On the island with the most beautiful sunsets in the world,
the arid, volcanic land in combination with the dry climate provide products with flavours such as that of the sweet white
aubergines, cherry tomatoes with a slightly sour note, bright yellow split peas renowned throughout Greece, and dried capers.
The most classic dishes on Santorini are fried tomato balls,
Santorini brantada (pre-fried pieces of cod cooked in the oven
with tomato sauce and skordalia (garlic dip), oven roast split peas
with pork, fried split pea balls and, finally, the wonderful poutinga (puddings), melitinia, and kopania.
Donoussa, Iracleia, Koufonissi and Schinoussa are small paradises and compose the small Eastern Cyclades complex. On
Donoussa, in particular, one must try the unique in flavour goat
stuffed with chondro (broken wheat), cheese and sykotaria (liver
and entrails), in Iracleia the wonderful sea urchin salad, on the
Koufonessia the amazing patatato (meat with potatoes cooked in
red sauce) and on Schinoussa local string beans.
Sikinos and Ios are two tiny islands of the South Cyclades.
Life here moves slowly and peacefully, and if you look at these
islands through the eyes of a traveller, you will definitely discover authentic flavours, such as chickpea balls (falafel) on Ios and
the unusual lemon pork, spiced with saffron on Sikinos.

cyclades - waves of f lavour

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105

Festivals

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Religious festivals and popular celebrations, important aspects of

popular culture, are often marked with a special dish. At christenings
and weddings the traditional koufeto made from almonds boiled in local
honey, pasteli (sesame bars) served on lemon leaves, cooked raki, kitro
liqueur (Naxos citrus speciality) and sour cherry or tangerine liqueurs
are typically served as treats to guests. Even at sad occasions, special
dishes are served. On Kea, Amorgos and elsewhere, in the belief that
death is not the end of a line but part of the cycle of life, relatives keep
the custom of the farewell dinner makaria.
The Christmas period brings its own festive culinary traditions.
On Santorini, influenced by its conquerors, they make pudding (an
English dessert) and Italian gnocchi, while on Folegandros housewives
fry makarounes. On Myconos all homes are perfumed with the sweet
aroma of diples, finikia, kourambiedes and christopsoma, on Tinos they
serve lychnarakia and on Santorini melitinia. On Epiphany, in Donoussa,
housewives make photopites.
Easter has a special charm on the Cycladic islands. On Holy
Thursday housewives are busy kneading biscuits and dying eggs. On
Folegandros Easter is celebrated with a procession of the Virgin Mary
icon on three consecutive days; the icon is welcomed with treats; in
Ktikados, Tenos, on Holy Monday they keep the tradition of the Table
of Agape (Love), with Catholics and Orthodox Christians eating at the
same table; on Andros they cook the lambriatis in a traditional oven; on
Siphnos they cook the mastelo, the traditional melopita (honey pie), and
throughout the Holy Week they prepare the birds of Lambri1 In Iracleia
they cook lamb or goat stuffed with groats, butter, cheese and walnuts;
on Schinousa lamb is stuffed with rice and herbs, on Naxos lamb is
stuffed with sykotaria (liver and entrails), cheese and spices making the
renowned batoudo, etc.
The Cyclades celebrate St. Nicholas, Patron Saint of sailors, with
wonderful feasts. On the Koufonissia, mass is followed by a party with
seafood mezedes and warm raki, on Schinoussa a feast is held at the
lighthouse, where the main dish is traditionally salty cod with skordalia
(garlic dip).
Another custom of Byzantine origin, which is still observed in many
of the Cyclades islands, is Chirosfageia (pig slaughtering). A pig is raised
the whole year by each family and must be slaughtered; its meat is preserved in a variety of ways. According to custom, friends and family
gather at the family home or in public areas from early morning, to help
with the slaughtering and food preparation. The goal is waste nothing.

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The head is boiled or made into thick tsiladia, to which they add even
the ears. They make salted meats, sausages, cooked meats, louses, zeliades. Even the bones are salted and kept in clay jars to be used in winter meat soups. The fat (glina) is used for cooking and the residual meat
is used to make syglina. In the past the pigs tail was used to send the
flies away, and even the bladder was turned, through a specific process,
into a balloon for the children.
Tinos
2
The Kavos custom is still observed on Tripotamos, Tinos. The
Kavos hosts a dinner at his house attended only by village men who are
family heads and the village priest. They bring with them, bundled in a
towel, their fork, spoon, bread and wine. At this table of brotherhood
the Kavos offers luxurious and abundant food, including beef soup, meat
in tomato sauce, stifado, stuffed vine leaves and other local delicacies.
Wine is typically served in tasia, which are brass cups.
The Honey Festival takes place in September in the plains and the
Rakizio (raki festival) at Faltado. The Artichoke Festival takes place at the
beginning of May at Komi.

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Paros
On the first Sunday of July Naoussa, Paros celebrates the Fish
Festival. It is a traditional feast with ample wine and freshly fried fish
where musicians set the rhythm and groups of dancers invite spectators to dance.
On the 3rd of November at Parikia where Saint George Methystis (the
Drunk-maker) is celebrated, part of the feast is the tasting of fresh wines
of the new season.

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Siphnos
Every September at Tselementes birthplace (the first cookery
book author in Greece, considered synonymous to cooking), the
Traditional Cuisine Festival is held, where chefs and musicians from the
Cyclades create a unique atmosphere at Artemon Square.

cyclades - waves of f lavour

Amorgos
Every August the famous Pasteli (sesame bar) Festival takes place
at the Main Square in Chora.

107

106
2

Santorini
The Raki Festival is the event that marks the end of summer activities for Arkadi- the Union of Santorinis Cretans- members. The
Patron Saint of wine, Saint Averkios, is honoured on the 22nd of
October. During the street festival, after the mass, the world famous
local wine is served and intoxication is almost mandatory.

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Donoussa
th
th
On the 15 of August (the Virgins Assumption) and the 14 of
September (Raising of the Holy Cross) big festivals are organized during which ballos and other traditional dances keep everyone on their
feet until morning. The main delicacy is the famous patatako (lamp
cooked in tomato sauce with herbs and potatoes).

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Mykonos
At the agricultural museum, at Bonis Mill, every second Sunday of
September, the Vine-harvest Festival takes place, featuring a vine-harvest revival. Local families bring food and wine, bake bread in the wood
fired oven, stomp on grapes in the patitiri and dance while the musicians play tsampouna and doubaki.
Another well known celebration is Chirosfagia in October which is the
pig-slaughtering feast.

Irakleia
The Gopa (Bogue) Festival takes place on the island during the
summer months.

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108

Serifos
The Wine and Chirosfagion (pig slaughtering) Festival takes place on
the 11th of November.
Andros
The Gavriotika is organized at the end of summer on Gavrio
beach featuring sport matches, folk art exhibitions and various events.
Amongst treats offered are wine, kakavia (type of bouillabaisse) and
fourtalia (omelette with local sausage).
Moreover, women from the local womens cooperative organize the
Lemon Festival on Easter Saturday morning: they offer local homemade
lemon marmalade and various events celebrating the theme of lemon
trees and lemons take place.
Anafi
Every year on the 7-8 September, at The Virgin Mary Kalamiotissas
Church, a street festival is organized with a distinctive local colour and
local products such as wine, honey, goat cheese and the exceptional
Anafiotiko ladotyri (type of cheese) are served.
Antiparos
The main event of the festive season is the three-day festival of
Santa Marina. The street festival takes place between the 15 and 17 of
July at Antiparos harbour with dancing, singing and treats for everyone.
The three-day event includes a traditional Cyclades marriage re-enactment and the antimarriage on the following day with dancing and
treats. The main treats served are local fresh fish and dairy produce like
kefalotiri, ladotiri, xinomizithra and toulomotiri. The procession of the icon
of Santa Marina is accompanied by the local icon band.

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Therasia
Delicacies with small, succulent tomatoes, ripe courgettes, goldencoloured mashed split peas and local wines of exceptional quality are
offered at every festival; the biggest event is that of Santa Irene at Riva
th
on the 5 of May.
Ios

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Virtually all marriages on Ios, take place on a Saturday. Three days

before the wedding, on Thursday, the yeast party takes place which
actually is a ceremony for baking the wedding bread. The preparation
of the yeast follows traditional singing and after that there is a feast.
After the wedding ceremony pasteli (sesame bar) treats are mandatory followed by the wedding feast with food, island music, singing and
dancing.

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Kea
The February carnival parade takes place at Ioulida and it is followed
by a splendid feast. The Municipality of Kea offers guests local delicacies
like homemade paspalas (omelette with meat and string beans), wine
and lemon flavoured rice pudding.

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Kimolos
Locals and guests are treated in every celebration with bread rolls
from shinokoko, ksini cheese, ladenia (pizza-like dish from the Cyclades)
and local wine varieties. Virgin Mary Odigitria Day (The Presentation) on
st
the 21 of November is the focal point of celebrations.

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Koufonissi
On the 15ht of August (Assumption Day), all island inhabitants sail
in fishing boats to Kato Koufonissi for Virgin Marys festival. The mass is
followed by the street festival and a big feast where fish, lamp and goat
meat are offered. In their return, locals race each other on their fishing
boats followed by violin music and treats for everyone. Similarly, the
mass on the 6th of December, Saint Nicholas Day, is followed by a
feast with sea food delicacies and raki.

cyclades - waves of f lavour

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109

Kithnos
The Sfougato Festival has been organized every summer on Kithnos
since 2008. It is a gastronomic festival dedicated to the cheese croquettes of Kithnos.

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Milos
A delicious desert called koufeto is produced on Milos, made with
squash, honey and almonds. It is offered on every happy occasion.

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Naxos
Chatzanemata takes place in September and it is the process of
producing wine and raki. Chirosfagia (pig slaughtering) takes place at the
end of autumn. Easter is celebrated in a unique way, the festive delicacy of Naxos being lamp stuffed with spices, entrails and cheese.

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Sikinos
From August until Christmas at Alopronia, most Sikinos residents
fish for cuttlefish using kaftero, a type of hook. The whole process is celebrated with a feast, at which local islanders are active participants.

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Syros
Every third Friday in August at Foinikas beach a traditional feast
takes place with kakavia (type of bouillabaisse soup), local fish and wine,
singing and dancing. Every September at Vari a traditional trigopati
(grape stomping) takes place where locals and guests participate enthusiastically.

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Schinussa
The Saturday after the Friday of the Akathistos Ymnos [literally: nonsitting Hymn; the penultimate Friday of Easter Lent a long hymn is sung
to the Virgin and people should sing it standing up] is the main event in
the islands religious and social life. A big street festival is organized
devoted to The Virgin Mary Akathi of the Chora. Offerings to guests
include scrumptious local dishes like the patato, cheese pastries with
mizithra cheese, octopus giouvetsi [cooked with pasta] while traditional
musicians create a festive atmosphere until the early morning hours.

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Folegandros
The kalasuna, a cheese pie with strained cheese and onion, is the trademark of Folegandros cuisine. Wedding and Christening celebrations
always include local sesame bars. For the Christmas celebration local
women fry makarones (semolina and honey based sweet) and for
Easter they prepare delicious honey pies, baked with fresh mizithra
cheese and exquisite thyme honey.

cyclades - waves of f lavour

110

2008
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111


the f lavours

( 6 )

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Kalogeros

10

Saut? the onion and meat in a non-stick frying pan; the meat should be sealed
on all sides, till golden brown. Dilute the tomato paste into the wine and pour
over the meat. Add the rest of the ingredients with two cups of lukewarm
water and cover; let it simmer for about an hour. In the meantime, cut the
aubergines length-wise, make narrow diamond-shaped grooves on the flesh
side of the slices and fry them.
Drain excess oil by placing the fried aubergine slices on kitchen paper. Place
them on a baking tray. On top of every aubergine slice, place a piece of meat,
along with a spoonful of its juices, then a tomato slice; sprinkle with cinnamon
and add a touch of sour mizitrha cheese; finish with the gruyere cheese. Cook
in the oven for twenty minutes at 1800 C until the cheeses melt.

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Tirititim

(monk)

Amorgos

112

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cyclades - waves of f lavour

( 6 )

Syros

Ingredients (serves 6 persons)

2 big aubergines ("flask" shaped)
1 kilo beef, cut into 5-6 large
portions
1 onion, finely chopped
1 cup white wine
1 bay leaf
2 Tablespoon tomato paste
1 cup chopped tinned tomatoes
teaspoon sugar
teaspoon pepper
cup olive oil
salt
Topping
4 Tablespoons sour mizithra cheese
5-6 slices gruyere cheese
5-6 tomato slices
teaspoon cinnamon

(type of omelette)

Ingredients (serves 6 persons)

1 kilo small courgettes
10 eggs
1 Tablespoon fresh spearmint, finely
chopped
1 small bunch of dill, finely chopped

Cut the courgettes into thin slices and place into a big frying pan with the salt
and pepper over low heat, till their liquids evaporate; this will take about 1012 minutes. You then add the olive oil, the finely chopped onions, the dill, and
the spearmint and saut for about 5-6 minutes. Beat the eggs and add to
the frying pan. When a crust is formed at the bottom, shake lightly till the eggs
set. The dish is served hot.

5 fresh onions, finely chopped

salt
pepper
Olive oil for frying

113

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sausage, salt, pepper, spearmint and cheese and add to the frying pan. Shake
the pan lightly to spread the egg mixture evenly; cook over low heat until set.
Turn the omelette over so that it becomes golden brown on both sides.

Strapatsada (scrambled eggs)

with capers and onions

ndros
frying pan and soften the potatoes by frying them lightly. Beat the eggs with the

2-3 . .

Fourtalia (omelette)
with potatoes and sausage
Cut the sausage into 10 thick pieces. Melt the butter or glina in a medium-size

cyclades - waves of f lavour

1/2 . .

Kimolos
Ingredients (serves 6 persons)
sausage from Andros or pork
sausage
1 potato sliced into thin pieces
(1 cm thick)
2 eggs

Ingredients (serves 6 persons)

1/4 cup olive oil for frying
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 cup capers (rinsed and dried)

Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and saut? the onion lightly; add the
capers. Beat the eggs (having added very little salt - because the capers are
quite salty) and pour the mixture into the pan. Mix with a fork until the eggs
set. Remove the strapatsada and serve with the cheese on the side.

3 eggs
2-3 Tablespoons fresh cheese

salt
pepper
spearmint

114

1/2 cup grated cheese

1 Tablespoon butter or 2
Tablespoons glina (pork fat)

115

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(8-10 )

Domatokeftedes

1 . .
2-3 . . 1 . .
1 1/2 . .

(fried tomato balls)

Santorini

Cut the tomatoes in half and remove all seeds. Place them into the blender. Switch it on and off 3-4 times to chop the tomatoes up finely; do
not pulp them. Empty the tomato mixture into a strainer and leave it for an hour to get rid of excess liquid. Empty the strained tomatoes into
a bowl and mix with the onions the spearmint, the baking powder, salt, pepper and flour. It should be quite a thick mixture. If necessary, you
can add a little more flour. Heat the olive oil well in a deep non-stick frying pan. Take spoonfuls of the tomato mixture and place into the hot
olive oil. Fry the tomato balls on high heat until they become deep brown on both sides. Place the domatokeftedes on kitchen paper to drain
excess oil and serve immediately, while they are still hot.

Ingredients (serves 8-10 persons)

3 big ripe tomatoes (not-peeled) or 1/2 kilo small
Santorini cherry-tomatoes
2 big onions, finely chopped
2 spring onions, finely chopped
1 teaspoon spearmint or parsley, finely chopped
1 teaspoon baking powder
2-3 Tablespoons flour
1 cup flour
1 1/2 cups olive oil for frying
salt

116

pepper

( 6 )

15 2-3 .
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the water surface. Then empty into a colander and rinse well. Boil them again
in half a litre of fresh water at medium heat for about 12 minutes. Add the rice
and salt and cook for another 10 minutes. Switch off the heat and cover the
pot with a cotton tea-towel.
Meanwhile, prepare the mix to fry as follows: Heat the olive oil in a small frying
pan, add the finely-chopped onions and saut? slightly. Then add the flour and
stir vigorously with a wooden spatula. Add the vinegar and then pour the
whole mixture into the pot with the beans and mix well.

,
.
180 1
80-90 7 .
.

1 . .

Revithada with skepastaria

Black-eyed beans
with tiganisi (fried mix)
Boil the beans lightly for about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, remove the froth from

. ,

3-4 . .

(chick peas cooked in a ceramic dish)

Sifnos

Mykonos

118

( 8

cyclades - waves of f lavour

Ingredients (serves 6 persons)

Ingredients (serves 6 persons)
1/2 kilo black-eyed beans
1 cup olive oil

kilo chick peas (soaked for 8

hours)
2 big onions, finely chopped

cup long-grain rice

1 cup olive oil

2-3 medium onions

1 teaspoon salt

3-4 Tablespoons vinegar

Place the chick peas in the special ceramic dish. Add the onion, salt, olive oil
and enough water to cover the chick peas more than completely. Close the
ceramic dish with its lid and cook in the oven at 1800oC for an hour; then
lower the temperature to 80-900 C and cook for another 7 hours.
The dish is served warm with a touch of lemon.

the juice of a big lemon

1 Tablespoon flour
Salt
Pepper

119

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200 40 , 180

( 15 -20 )

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500 .
250 .
250 .
150 .
150 .
500 .

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8-9

Patoudo

(stuffed goat)
Paros

For the stuffing: Place the butter and olive oil in a big deep frying pan and add the liver cut into small pieces. Brown lightly, on all sides, for 5-6
minutes. Add the rice, cheese - cut in small pieces - the raisins, the salt, pepper and bread. Add water slowly and stir until the mixture is
homogenous and firm.
Fill the goat with the mixture and stitch together to close its belly tight. Place in the oven and roast at 2000oC, for the first 40 minutes; then
lower the heat to 1800oC and cook for two more hours, after covering the goat with baking paper, so it does not get burned on the outside.

Ingredients (to serve 15 -20 persons)

A small goat, around 8-9 kilos
Stuffing
2 goat livers
500 gr raisins
250 gr short-grain rice
250 gr kefalotyri (hard, salty cheese)
150 gr olive oil
150 gr butter
500 gr small bread pieces

120

salt
pepper
water, as needed

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Matsata

Melitinia - Lychnarakia

(home-made pasta)

(Small honey sweets small oil-lamp shaped sweets)

Tinos

Folegandros
In a big bowl mix the flour, water, olive oil and a pinch of salt and knead to
make a firm, homogenous dough; let it rest for about 15-20 minutes.
Then roll out into 4-5 thick sheets and sprinkle with ample flour. Roll each
sheet up and start cutting into small spirals to make the matsata.
Boil for 5 minutes in salted water, strain and place on a serving dish or individual plates; the pasta is accompanied by rooster or rabbit cooked in tomato
sauce; it is sprinkled with grated ladotyri.

Ingredients (serves 6 persons)

500 gr flour
1 Tablespoon olive oil
1 cups water
salt
cup grated ladotyri ('oil-cheese')
from Folegandros or any other hard
cheese (optional)

Ingredients (for 30 -40 pieces)

For the dough
1 kilo all purpose flour
50 gr butter
pinch of salt
water
For the filling

122

cyclades - waves of f lavour

( 6 )

1 kilo unsalted mizithra cheese

1 kilo sugar
250 gr self-rising flour
3-4 eggs
20 gr mastic from Chios, ground
and sieved
pinch of vanilla

Mix all ingredients into smooth, firm dough, neither too fluffy nor too stiff. Let it
rest for 20'. Roll out into thin sheets and cut into circles, 4-5 cm in diameter.
Raise the edges of each circle to create a 'nest' so that you can place the filling
inside.
For the filling, mix the mizithra cheese with the sugar; add the flour and beaten
eggs, the mastic and the vanilla. Mix well into a thick homogenous mixture.
Fill each circle of dough with a spoonful of filling; Pinch the dough all around to
form a little "oil-lamp". Place the melitinia on a buttered baking tray and bake
for 40 minutes at 1800oC until they are golden brown.

123

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.
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10-15 .

10 .
.
. .

( 40 )

2 .
1 . .
1 . .


10 . .
5 . .
1 . .

(
)

2-3 . .

8 . .
4 . .
4 . .

Gemista

(stuffed dough sweets)

Anafi

Brown the sesame in a frying pan- do not burn it. Put it in the blender to crack it or in the mortar and 'break' it with the pestle. Empty into a
bowl and add the ground rusk, the cinnamon-clove mix, the nutmeg and the orange rind. Boil the syrup for a while and when it cools off, add
the sesame mixture into the syrup and mix well. Let the mixture rest overnight.
Mix the dough ingredients in a bowl and add a little lukewarm water; knead well to get a firm, homogenous dough. Let the dough rest for 1015 minutes.
Roll out the dough into thin sheets and cut small round pieces, using a dough cutter or a small saucer - around 10cm in diameter.
Place a spoonful of filling onto the dough circle and fold into a crescent. Fry in hot olive oil and place onto kitchen paper to drain. When the
sweets have cooled off, sprinkle with icing sugar.

Ingredients (for 40 pieces)

For the dough:
2 cups flour
1 Tablespoon olive oil
1 Tablespoon vinegar
pinch of salt
For the filling
10 cups sesame
5 cups ground rusk
1 teaspoon cinnamon-clove ground in the mortar
pinch nutmeg
1 teaspoon orange rind
Olive oil for frying
2-3 Tablespoon icing sugar
For the syrup

124

8 cups sugar
4 cups water
4 cups honey

Gastronomic Glossary of
the Cyclades

, , , , .

Haematies Pork large intestine stuffed with blood from the animals
neck, glina, honey, raisins, spring onions and spices.

Amarathenies Small cheese pies; fresh maratho (fennel) is added to

the cheese filling.

Arando/Aranto/Arado Type of hand made pasta made on all

Cyclades islands.

Afritis Coarse salt collected in the summer from rock holes on cliff
sides.

Gouna Mackerel left open in two in the hot sun for a whole day and
then barbecued.

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.

Karavoloi (Syros) Snails, usually cooked on the charcoal, either in red

tomato sauce or fricasse with courgettes, dill, spring onions and a rich
egg and lemon sauce.

,
, , , .

Karydota small oval sweets, made with a mixture of walnuts, flour,

sugar, flower water and mastic, baked in the oven and served sprinkled
with icing sugar.

Katsouni Famous dish made with split peas; it is a paste-like dip, served
with ample olive oil.

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.

Kolitsanokeftedes On Paros, very small sea anemones are not simply

fried rolled in flour, like on Mykonos (see kollesianoi), but turned into
balls with added cheese, onion, spearmint and a little flour.

()
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.

Kollesianoi (Mykonos) This is a dish with sea-anemones. Locals collect the sea-anemones carefully, dip them into batter and fry them.

, .

Kopania A rudimentary kind of treat to serve to guests, made with

pestled barley rusk, sesame and raisins.

Korkokyles Small green melons, grown on arid land, combined with

ambelofasoula (local green beans): they are the staple vegetables for
Folegandros summer meals.

.
.

Kouloures Dry, thin bread rings with aniseed and sesame; they keep
for months. They are usually eaten for breakfast with a piece of cheese.

Kopsidia Spare pork ribs, usually barbecued.

,
.

Ladenioi Small biscuits made with olive oil and spices and dipped in
honey.

"" , .

Livia makaronia Ambelofasoula (local green beans), served boiled

with melted butter, red tomato sauce and grated cheese.

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.

Louvia (Mykonos) Thin string beans served with skordalia (garlic dip).

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, ,
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. ().

Louzes and sausages Louza or vassilikia is marinated in sweet red

wine and flavoured, as on Tinos, with fennel and pepper before being
smoked. Sausages are spicy and smoked with a strong aniseed flavour.
They are usually preserved in pork fat (glina).

,
.

Malathouni Small cheese, similar to strongylo; the only difference is that

it is left to dry thoroughly in small baskets made of bulrushes.

, , (
- ). .

Manoura Local white cheese; after it dries, it is placed in wine dregs. It

is savoury and keeps for a long time.

"" . .

Manouri Fresh, soft, sweet cheese from full-fat goat or sheep milk;
very similar to Cretan mizithra.

, , .

Maties Pork intestines filled with rice and raisins, cinnamon and cloves.

Matsi thin, lasagna-like home made pasta boiled in milk; the dish made
this way is called matsogala.

,
, .
.

Menoules liastes Small fish (blotched picarel); it is covered in salt and

let to dry in the sun; it is considered an excellent mezes for ouzo.

,
.

Boulenta A type of savoury, filling crme, based on corn flour and fresh
tomato sauce.

Bouboulo Small louza made with porterhouse steak.

cyclades - waves of f lavour

126

127

128

Bourekia (Siphnos): sweets filled with honey, sesame and marzipan.

They were brought over from Constantinople by Siphniot confectioners.
Djiladia Type of pork jelly flavoured with saffron.

Xidato Local pig-trotter soup served at local church feasts, such as that
of Santa Paraskevi on Amorgos.

()
.

Souma Strong drink made from grape pomace.

, .
, " ".

Strinaki New Years Sweet Bread Ring decorated with patterns,

almonds and sesame. It is not edible, but hung in the kitchen to bring
good luck for the whole year.
Pancakes with capers An unusual appetizer; in golden dough they mix
dill, parsley and savoury capers.

, .

Xino A tasy, soft, creamy, fresh cheese, served on top of tomato salad.

, .

, . .

Xinomizithra Fresh cheese with creamy texture and a wonderful sour

flavour. It is spread on bread.

, .

Tyravgoulo A special rabbit dish cooked in the pot with a rich sauce
made with egg, cheese and wine.

. , .

Xinotyro Small cheese with slightly sour flavour; it is made after sour
milk is strained through special baskets made of bulrushes. When dried,
it is used grated.

, , .

Tyrovolia or Rovolia A relatively soft cheese, typical of Mykonos, used

as pie filling.

Pastelata Dried figs filled with walnuts and sesame.

,
.

Flingouni in red sauce Pig's entrails cooked in tomato, dark red wine
and spices.

, .

Pitaroudia Home made pasta; it is prepared with hard wheat and

water and boiled in milk or fried.

() ,
.

Psarakia (small fish) (Tinos) One of the tastiest fasting sweets of the
island, shaped like a thin, long fish.

.
.

Ponji A very strong alcoholic drink; it is made with mulberry raki and
ample heather-flower honey. It is served both warm and cold.

, .

Psarolia Small fish, usually whitebait, dried in the sun.

Poulia tis Lambris (Easter Birds) Bread rolls shaped like little animals
or humans, made for the Easter period.

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( ) .

Provassia (Mykonos) Limonium sinuatum or common thalassogambr?s,

is the staple wild green of Mykonos and not only cuisine (it is also
served on Tinos and Syros). It is very tasty and cooked with meat and
lard.

. , , , , , , .

Seskoulopitakia A dish on the borderline between savoury and sweet.

A pie make with kale, rice, raisins, cinnamon, grape juice preserve and
home made fyllo pastry.

( )
.

Sisyra Meat residues under the thick pig skin; when the glina (fat) melts,
these are left behind and fried in the pan.

Skordolazana Lasagna boiled in ample water and served mixed with a

light garlic dip.

, , . .

Sougli Small fish, boce or whitebait dried in the sun. They are dipped
in batter and fried.

cyclades - waves of f lavour

() , . .

129



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the dodecanese - waves of f lavour

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131

The Dodecanese
The Land
The Dodecanese, with their great natural landmarks, splendid historical sites and religious monuments, traditional residential districts with narrow alleys, warm and hospitable residents, their sunny, clean beaches and their unique local products, inspire a feeling of awe in every visitor. They
range from the barren isle of St. John - Patmos - in the North, to distant Kastelorizo, to the extremity of Kilkias in the southeast. They constitute
the East. Their capital is the island of Rhodes, homeland of many philosophers, which in ancient times hosted one of The Seven Wonders of the
world, the Colossus of Rhodes.
The Islands, due to their strategic geographic location, have always been a hub of great trade, transport and political significance and that's why
they were invaded by waves of conquerors from Western and Eastern civilizations who all left their marks behind. Venetians, Genoese, Crusaders,
Turks and Italians fought over the islands. The Dodecanese was the last part annexed to present-day Greece in 1948.
The Isles tumultuous history and scale of external influence is reflected in numerous monuments, in their architecture, dietary habits, local cuisine,
and the culture of their inhabitants in general. The past history of conquerors and invaders has shaped the outline of the Dodecanese cuising, which
has borrowed elements from three continents, Asia, Africa and Europe; these have been assimilated in an elaborate way to create culinary masterpieces, which, however are based on simple ingredients, and on clear frugal flavours.
Due to their proximity to the East and North Africa the Islands have borrowed aromas and dishes not found anywhere else in Greece. The spice
trade of the Byzantium and, later on, of St. John's Knights, who brought coveted spices to Western Europe, left clear marks not only on Rhodes' cuisine but on that of other islands of the Dodecanese as well. Spices, especially cumin, cloves and cinnamon are typical ingredients of the local cuisine.

the dodecanese - waves of f lavour

the border line of Greece in the Southeast Aegean, almost connected to the shores of Western Asia; they form the border between the West and

Cumin is used as seasoning on many things, from rusks to fried chick pea meatballs (a type of falafel), which are called "Pitaroudia", while cinnamon
adds its unique aroma to both sweet and savory dishes; when distilled cinnamon is used to make refreshing Kanelada, the traditional beverage of Kos.
The long term occupation of the Dodecanese by the Italians influenced the cuisine on the islands, especially in mixing main pasta dishes with pulses. Dishes that looked Italian, such as risotto cooked in cuttlefish ink, have been part of the local cuisine for decades. Another important influence
towards using spicy and exotic food came from the prolonged stay of many island inhabitants in Alexandria. Egyptian dishes such as molohia and
tahinia are served on Kassos to this day.
"Stuffed" dishes have been another important influence on Dodecanese cuisine from Eastern Mediterranean countries: stuffed lamb for Easter or
stuffed chicken or turkey. The stuffing is called Paspara and contains rice, onion, liver, herbs, tomato, etc. Stuffed entrails with liver and rice (Boustia);
stuffed vegetables, or even stuffed courgette flowers called Kolokithopoulia, stuffed sweets, pies stuffed with anthotiro and herbs, or moskoboukia
with a filling of almonds and walnuts and numerous other delicacies.

133

134

Local conditions and

customs

Besides historical circumstances, the geomorphology of the islands

, ,

and their soil affected the development, growth, prime, and activities of

their inhabitants as well as their economy. These, small rocky islands

. , -

with the tiny area of arable land turned to the sea in order to survive.

. -

Symi, Kassos, Kalymnos and Chalki had heavy trade, while later on they

, , -

specialized in sponge diving, and the sea virtually became the islanders'

only source of food; as a result, the cuisine of these islands is based sole-

ly on fish and seafood, which are cooked in thousands of different ways.

Amongst the finest seafood specialties are fish and seafood which

, .

are preserved in salt and dried in the sun; they hold pride of place in

Aegean cuisine, because they provide food all year round; this was very

useful in winter, when storms and high waves made fishing conditions

increasingly difficult and dangerous. Menoula is preserved in salt on

, -

Kassos, Karpathos, and Symi. On Symi and Karpathos an excellent

. -

appetizer is sun-dried lobster, favored during Easter Lent (Sarakosti).

, . -

And, of course, one of the most unusual special dishes is spinalo, made

with certain seashells called pines, sea-urchins or ray fish; these are pre-

. , -

served in brine made with sea water, which leaves a lovely smell of

iodine.

,
.

Often, harsh conditions and lack of raw materials, forced island

inhabitants to use anything produced on the Dodecanese land. This

made almost every housewife skilled in using her imagination to com-

bine poor ingredients and create tasty dishes even during hard times for

the islands, when their diet became particularly austere. A characteris-

tic example comes from Rhodes and Symi, where they even use

Cyclamen leaves, which they stuff with mincemeat, rice and other ingre-

, .

dients to create the famous Dolamades. The fruit of the Cyclamen,

when boiled with sugar on low heat, make a tasty dessert, while

, ,

Cyclamen bulbs are browned in the frying pan and used to garnish all

kinds of dishes. Amaragoi (May daisies) are boiled and preserved in

, , ,

vinegar; this is a simple dish from Rhodes and Kassos, while Glistrida

. -

(Common purslane) along with vlita (Amaranta greens) are really tasty

( ) , ,

when cooked with fried onion in tomato sauce, to make a tasty yahni

dish. On Kassos housewives also gather sea dandelions which they pre-

. -

serve in thick salt, so they may be cooked in the summer when there

, ,

are fewer greens available.

,
, ( ).

Aromatic herbs such as thyme, oregano, sage, spearmint and fennel, grow on most of the islands; these are special favorites since they

(, -

add great aroma to dishes and a wonderful, unique taste. Indicatively,

, , , ) -

on Kos, schinos (Pistacia lentiscusis) is used in bread and rusks; saffron

, .

is used in Easter sweet bread rings on Astipalea; sage is used in many

dishes made on Rhodes, while capers are used in tomato sauce and fish

, -

dishes in Pserimo. Visitors to Rhodes should not miss the chance to

, ,

sample the liqueur made with seven herbs collected from Filerimos

plateau.

, .

The sunny climate, and the rich, wild vegetation of the islands
encourages beekeeping; the honey produced is of high quality and

( ),

flavour. On islands with poor soil and few cultivated products, fishing

, -

and livestock breeding are important economic activities; goats are their

primary meat source. Preserving food in salt originated from the need

, , -

to keep food all year round. This led to pastourma, which on Karpathos

is called yalitikos and it is made from wind dried goat's meat. On

Kalymnos cavourmas is made from fried lean beef, salted and preserved

. -

in butter.

On the largest islands of the Dodecanese, wherever the land is fer-

. -

tile, olive trees, cereals and vines are grown. On Rhodes, the produc-

tion of high quality wines, renowned and highly sought after in ancient

, .

times, is helped by ample sunlight, frequent rain and the cool sea

, -

breeze, which make ideal weather conditions for viniculture. The pass-

, -

ing of the wine-loving Italians from the islands helped viniculture and

, .

wine-making using various grape varieties. The distillation of grapes pro-

duces really tasty souma (raki- like, tsipouro).

Finally, there are fruit trees such as apricot and almond trees.

Almonds are used to make lovely marzipan sweets on Nisyros; they are

distilled to produce soumada, while on Tylos they also make dasogalo

[literally: 'forest milk']. Cereals have always been the staple diet for

many islanders, since they are made into various pasta types and

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'pligouri' (milled wheat), which is often combined with meat and tahini

the dodecanese - waves of f lavour

and used to add flavour to both sweet and savory pies.

. , . , ( ), , , , .

135

Dodecanese...
traditionally

Rhodes

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Despite the intense tourism activity of the island, visitors to the

quaint villages of central and mountainous Rhodes, such as Arhangelos,
Afandou, Emponas, Apollona, Psinthos, can still taste authentic traditional dishes cooked with local products: kid or lamb meat cooked in a
low heat oven with chick peas or 'lopia' (dry beans), juicy fried chick
pea balls (type of falafel) and savoury fried courgette balls with glystrida/vlita (wild greens) cooked in a tomato sauce, small onion pies, vineleaves stuffed with pligouri, fakorizo (lentils 'risotto'), and fried pligouri
with meat balls. Pligouri is so commonly used on Rhodes, that it often
accompanies fried or pot-cooked fish, or even Paschatis, the traditional Easter dish of Monolithos, Rhodes. Cyclamens are called 'camilakia'
[literally: 'small camels'] and their leaves 'milofylla' [literally: 'apple
leaves']. The strange thing is not so much the names given to them as
their use in local island cuisine, a use that is probably unique. Tender
leaves of milofylla (white cyclamens) are dipped for a few minutes in
boiling hot water, just like vine leaves; they are then stuffed with rice,
pot-cooked and served with egg and avgolemono (lemon sauce).
Cyclamen bulbs are peeled and scraped like quinces. They are repeatedly boiled -the bitter water is poured out and boiling starts again with
fresh water- to get rid of their bitterness; finally they are cooked with
plenty of sugar and ground nutmeg.
Another common dish in mountain villages is a combination of goat
meat with 'lopia' (beans) or chick peas. They are cooked together in a
clay pot over low heat for a long time. Goat meat is cooked in 'pydiakos', a tall, narrow clay pot, with fresh onion, parsley and cinnamon;
the pot is sealed with dough. Another traditional dish is 'karavoloi'
(snails), which are pot-cooked in tomato sauce.
Finally, in older times, instead of a wedding invitation, islanders used
to send a small diamond shaped piece of 'melekouni'. This was a biscuit-like concoction of sesame seeds browned in the frying pan, mixed
with honey and almonds. Depending on the time of year, the mixture
was flavoured with orange, tangerine or bergamot peel. Other popular
sweet treats of the island are 'kaisi' (apricot) preserve, amygdalota
(marzipan sweets), avgokalamara, citrus or Seville orange flowers preserve, diples (type of pancake), katimeria, apidakia or karydakia (young
pears or walnuts preserve), takakia, xerotigana (type of pancake) etc.
Rhodes vineyard is also famous and it is recognized as a Protected
Origin Appellation; it includes regions that cultivate the Moschato
White of Rhodes communities. Rhodes' Top Quality Controlled
Appellation comprises two zones: one of the white 'Athiri' variety
grapes and one of the red 'Amorgiano' variety grapes, delimitated by

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the communities of Kritinia, Siannes, Monolithos, Agios Isidoros,

Apollona, Empona, Salakos, Mandrikos, Kalavarda, Phanoi, Soroni,
Theologos, Damatria and Maritsa.

Karpathos

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This island seems to be a living museum of gastronomy. Women

make huge sweet bread loaves, made with wheat or flavoured with
onion, which are baked in big traditional stone ovens heated with burning wood.
The skill of local women to handle dough is probably at the root
of such a wide variety of breads: onion bread, rusk biscuits with cumin
and sesame, christopsoma [literally: 'Christ's loaves'], pouloi, i.e. thin,
savoury biscuits and numerous others.
Karpathos' absolute Easter dish is called 'byzanti'. It is made with lamb
or kid stuffed with rice or bulgur, spices and the finely chopped entrails
of the animal.
Let's not forget that we are talking about an island; don't miss the
opportunity to taste all kinds of fish and lobster (which are plentiful in
this locality), shiny menoules (Spicara mena, blotched picarel) preserved
in salt, thrapsala (baby calamari) combined uniquely with fresh green
beans, cuttlefish cooked with fennel and fresh broad beans, as well as
pateles with a variety of shellfish. Of course, don't miss the famous
'skaros' (Euscarus cretensis) of Karpathos, which, when fished in the
morning, are grilled without being gutted.

Kassos

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Kassos' cuisine is characterized by a variety of dishes, much wider

than what one might expect a tiny, barren island to have. Islanders' contacts with the outside world (Crete, the rest of the Dodecanese, urban
centres, Egypt, America, Asia Minor, Italy, Istanbul), produced an unexpected range of recipes that are hardly encountered even in much larger islands.
Therefore, it is not strange that numerous restaurants on Kassos
offer molochia, tachinia, arissa, chourmadata, melitzanosalata (aubergine
dip) and Arab rice with golden-fried angel's hair. There is a large community of Greeks from Egypt on the island, which has greatly influenced
local culinary customs. Almost all restaurants also serve makarounes, i.e.
small hand-made pasta served with a sauce of fried onion and sitaka.
Kassos dolmades (stuffed vineleaves) are tiny - often no bigger than a
bean. They are made with minced beef or minced pork or without
meat and they are cooked slowly in olive oil and lemon. A 'must' for
summer visitors is angathoradiko [literally: 'spiky dandelion'] Hindipas
sea dandelion, which is preserved in thick salt.
One of the best known traditional products of the island are

the dodecanese - waves of f lavour

136

137

menoules preserved in salt, while the best known of its dairy produce
include sitaka, aelaiki, almyrotyri [literally: 'salty cheese'] and alevra.
On Easter Sunday, besides pasparas, i.e. stuffed lamb, they also
make typical Kassos cheesy cakes.

Chalki

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Chalki is an unusual place, unexpected, offering visitors unique travel and culinary experiences.
One of the special products and delicacies of the island is its aromatic red honey, which is lavishly poured on crispy 'xerotigana' (type of
pancake) and loukoumades (type of doughnut). They also prepare
lentils, which are combined with various different ingredients, such as
koulouria - a type of pasta served with fresh tomato sauce (fakorizo =
lentil risotto). Chalki is also famous for its hand-made pasta, such as
'koulia', in the shape of seashells, and makarounia, served with cheese
and fried onion sauce.
"Ofto" (Roast) kid or lamb, stuffed with rice and finely chopped
liver, is cooked in traditional wood burning ovens; unfortunately, this is
only served on Easter Sunday. Sea delicacies, such as fouskes [literally:
'bubbles'], kakavia (bouillabaisse-type soup), fried germanoi and
smarides preserved in salt are common dishes offering a fresh intensely iodine flavour to the palate.

Symi

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The countryside on Symi smells wonderful of sage and thyme; summer time is famous for the island's fragosyka (prickly pears), which
housewives use to make a famous cr?me-like dessert named 'misokofti'.
If you can't find misokofti, you can definitely savour sugar biscuits and
walnut baskets or amygdalota (marzipan sweets).
Another famous and extremely popular sweet is akoumia - the
round doughnuts which include rice in their dough.
Dolmades on Symi make a statement and come in a wide range of
flavors: they are made with lettuce leaves, cyclamen leaves (similar to
Rhodes), or without meat, which are called yalantzi or tebeloyaprakia
[literally: 'lazy stuffed leaves']. Dolmades are stuffed with minced meat,
rice, herbs, lentils, or even split peas. They are served with a simple but
spicy sauce made with onion and bread.
The tiny bright red shrimps of the island are famous in Greece. The
best way to cook them is to fry them. On this island they also make the
famous 'gallopites' Marida (whitebait) is used to make a gaella, i.e. a
small flat gaellopita (gaella pie) with eggs, onions, tomato or even
cheese.

Tilos

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The diet of this island is also based on a well-tested culinary trio:

the use of local products, excellent combinations of ingredients and
seasonality.
Welcoming sweets are tiny, here, based on dough, honey and nuts.
Some of the best known ones are melekounia (kind of marzipan
sweet), poungakia [literally: 'purses'], i.e. fyllo pastry stuffed with
almonds and sesame, diples, a type of pancake and loukoumades, a
type of doughnut served with syrup. There are also numerous improvised hand-made pasta types, such as koulouria, a type of spaghetti
served with a red sauce or butter and local mizithra cheese.
A 'nave' yet tasty dish is tsouvras, a tomato soup with or without
onion and chondros, i.e. coarsely chopped wheat cooked in water or
milk or sometimes with pork. Finally, appetizers, such as fried potatoballs, fried chick-pea balls (type of falafel), field-greens pies, mizithra
pies and cheese pies stuffed with local mizithra or hard cheese from
Tilos, Tiliako, similar to feta, are dishes prevailing in the island cuisine.

Nisyros

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Due to the volcanic soil, this island's products might be few but
they are extremely tasty. Special island flavours include the long and
sweet baby tomatoes, excellent savoury capers preserved in salt or
brine, and sweet, honey-tasting pastelaries (dry figs) opened in two
halves and sprinkled with plenty of almond and sesame.
Typical dishes are kapamas (stuffed kid) as well as pitthakia, fried chickpea balls, boukounies (pork cooked in its lard), yaprakia, which are
stuffed vine leaves. As on most islands, cheeses include mizithra, very
spicy copanisti as well as trygia, a small piece of cheese preserved in the
gyli (dregs) of wine.
Besides wine, the traditional drink of Nisyros is snow-white soumada,
always offered at betrothal ceremonies; it is usually diluted with a little
cool water.

Kos

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Kos' traditional cuisine is dominated by its variety of traditional

pasta: kritharaki (rice shaped pasta), klostres, makarounes, maidakia and
pasha-makarouna. The most popular dish, however, is a 'risotto' made
with pligouri, a roast wheat, dried in the sun and coarsely ground with
chick peas and small pieces of pork. Another authentic, traditional product is krassotyri [literally: 'wine cheese'].
Everywhere on the island there is one and only type of tomato; it
is small, oval-shaped and thick-skinned. Most island housewives and the

the dodecanese - waves of f lavour

138

. , ,
,
.
, , , .
, , , .

139

famous local patisseries are experts in combining the firm flesh of the
tomato with sugar to make a fine preserve, known as Kos domataki.
One cannot say 'no' to a properly syrup-sweetened baklava piece
stuffed with almonds and kakoules (cardamom), nor the outstanding
maergio, a kind of sweet white creme.
It is well known that Kos was one of the best wine producing and
marketing places of the ancient world. Excellent native varieties and
unique wine-making techniques produced a dark dry and a light wine
(leukoos or tethalatomenos oinos, as they were known in ancient
Greece).

Astypalea

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In antiquity, the Romans called it Ichthyoessa (i.e., teeming with

fish), a name that fully reflects the island's culinary achievements. Fish
and seafood, such as red mullet, petropsara [literally: 'stone fish'], sargoi,
skaroi, are plentiful and can be savoured in a variety of differently
cooked dishes. Other dishes that should not be missed are the traditional kakavia, a bouillabaisse-type soup with plenty of petropsara
(stonefish) or fried octopus-balls and excellent astakomakaronada
(pasta with lobster) - these are all unique pleasures for visitors to the
island.
Equally famous and popular are goat/sheep dairy produce from the
island. Make a note of chlori [literally: 'fresh'], kopanisti [literally: 'beaten
by a mortar'], mizitrha in a small basket, anthotyro, xyalina, a kind of
yoghurt, ladotyri, a small cheese pieces in oil and sigathouro, a uniquely flavoured kind of butter.
An extremely interesting local dish is arandista: it is a unique concept based on lentils.
On Easter Sunday, bakeries make wonderful poungia ('purses'), i.e.
sweet cheese pies with fresh cheese. A rather rare and uniquely
flavoured type of bread is also made on the island: it is a yellow round
bread ring, made with flour, mizithra and butter. The colour that also
gives the bread its name comes from the wild crocus (saffron) it contains.

Kalymnos

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Kalymnos, due to its sponge divers, has closely connected its name
with the sea. One can find the most unusual and rare tasting fish dishes: octopus soaked in ouzo, fried octopus balls, sun-dried lobster tail,
bright red 'fouskes' [literally: 'bubbles'] and spinialo, an amazing concoction of pines, sea-urchins and ray fish preserved in seawater! Another
excellent sea delicacy is karkani, an amazing cold salad made with ray
fish, which is boiled, cleaned and cut into a salad.
Another famous salad of the island is mirmizeli: this is a bowl laid
with broken rusk, sprinkled with plenty of olive oil, tomato, onion and
cheese.
Island bakeries sell eptazymo bread, kneaded with aniseed and
ouzo. They also make their kouloures, i.e. very small, hard, ring-shaped
rusks, sprinkled with black sesame, which used to be made for sponge
divers.
In older times they used to have a special deep clay pot with a lid,
within which they cooked the stuffed lamb for Easter. This pot was
called muuri or muri and was sealed with dough to keep the steam in.
When the lamb was taken out is was juicy, despite having been cooked
for a long time, and gave off a sweet smell of cinnamon and the gentle
acidity of sweet wine.
Kalymnos viniculture is hardly developed, but its one and only type
of wine, the sweet and aromatic anama has a unique flavour and perfume. Equally unique are the rolls of local galaktoboureko [literally: 'milk
pie'], a fyllo pastry sweet made with fresh milk in Chora, the port of the
island.

Leros

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Prevalent in Leros cuisine are various pies and small pies, based on
sweet mizithra cheese, vegetables and thyme honey. Satisfying patsavouropites [literally: 'rug pie'], similar to galaktoboureko, stuffed lerika
poungakia, svingoi (fluffy doughnuts), xerotigana, a type of pancake,
amygdalota, a type of marzipan sweets. There are also small pies stuffed
with seafood, using tiny, fresh, local whitebait, mussels cooked in sauce
in the saganaki (frying pan), fouskes [literally: 'bubbles'], sea-urchins salads, cuttlefish cooked in its ink.
Some of the most interesting vegetarian dishes are fried potato
balls, small courgette pies and cauliflower baked in the oven with plenty of onion and tomato.
One should not leave the island without trying the excellent aromatic soumada, a drink made with local almonds (the so-called forestmilk, dasogala) or gavafes, an amazing tropical fruit that has chosen
Leros for its native land.

the dodecanese - waves of f lavour

140

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141

Patmos

Leipsoi

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Patmos' cuisine identity differs from that of other Dodecanese

islands. This is probably because the island has always attracted numerous visitors due to its rich monastic and religious life.
What stands out is the two-three types of sweets with a special
flavour: apidakia [literally: 'small pears'], i.e. small marzipan pear-shaped
sweets, puffy, round ring-like svingoi (fluffy doughnuts), and diples, a
type of pancake. The best known island sweets are offered at weddings,
baptisms and betrothal ceremonies and they are called poungia [literally: 'purses']: they are shaped like half-moons and they are filled with a
honey sweet paste made of almonds and walnuts.
A special summer dish melitzanes peristerakia is that of small
aubergine 'doves': aubergines are stuffed with a grilled mixture of garlic
and parsley; they are then fried and consequently cooked in a rich
sauce.
There are also original combinations of vegetables with sea food
and fish, such as octopus cooked with potatoes in a wine sauce, wonderful 'burgers' made of calamari and octopus and, of course, the rich
synagrida (Dentex dentex) plaki dish.
Another local specialty worth trying is the 'open' Patmos cheese
pie, made with local mizithra.

Kasterlorizo

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Gastronomy on this tiny island is reversely proportionate to its size;

its variety and inventiveness are really amazing.
The great tradition of the island is fish preserved in salt. One can
sample a wide range of salted fish, such as mackerel, horse-mackerel,
smerna (moray eel), saddled bream, smarides, menoules, even kalogries.
An unusual dish is, of course, black risotto, cooked in the ink of calamari rather than that of cuttlefish.
Before offering this feast of seafood, the locals will offer you mouthwatering appetizers, such as fried split-pea balls, tiganopites [literally: 'frying pan pies'], pitaroudia [literally: 'small pies'], sun-dried tomatoes and
a variety of goat cheeses such as touloumotyri, mizithra, cheese in brine,
ladotyri.
No meal is complete on the island before the dessert is served; it
can be diples or xerotigana, a type of pancake, poungaki ('purse') baked
or fried, moustalevria and petimezi, made with the juice of Phocean
grapes or dry figs.
Wines from Leipsoi, dark red or white, sweet, semi-sweet or dry
are all of excellent quality, but they are produced is small quantities.
Currently, the Municipality - in cooperation with the Agricultural
University of Athens - is trying to replant the land with vine varieties
that are drought resistant.

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Probably the strangest name for dolmades is that used on this

island; they are called saladourmasi; they are made with onion leaves
stuffed with rice and minced meat. Another famous dish is fried chickpea balls, a type of falafel, and chick pea pie, which uses a paste of chick
peas 'enhanced' with plenty of aromatic herbs and fried at a high temperature, so that it forms a golden-brown crust on the outside.
Kid meat is excellent: it is firm with a slightly piquant after-taste due
to the wild greens the animals graze on next to the sea.
Kid is cooked using an excellent recipe, similar to that of neighbouring Rhodes: stuffed with a mixture of rice, finely chopped liver, cinnamon and plenty of pepper.
Local sweets are rather simple, but tasty and made with ingredients
that are easily accessible to housewives: katoumaria, which are a type
of pancake; semolina halva (koutalatos = spooned) and strava [literally:
'crooked'] as well as a type of fried baklava stuffed with walnuts, spices
and nuggets of sugar (a mixture of sugar and egg-white broken into
small pieces after it dries).

the dodecanese - waves of f lavour

142

143

144

Festivals

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A lot of the food and sweets of the Dodecanese are connected

with important festivals, such as Easter or Christmas, as well as certain
social events. The main dish on the Christmas table is pork. The slaying
of the swine is a group activity and follows a special "ritual". In preparation for this day housewives cook traditional yaprakia (Dolamadakia)
and diples.
On Rhodes, on St. Lazarus' Saturday, they bake twisted ring buns,
called lazarakia and lazaroi on Kalymnos, while on Kos they make lambropites [literally: "Easter pies']; on Kassos they make chrisokouloures
and pouloi, which are small, thin figure 8 shaped pastry with a red egg
on one side. Lamb and Goat also hold pride of place. In Rhodes' villages there is: pashatis in Monolithos, rifiki in Archangelos, kapamas in
Apokallia, Istrio and the rest of the villages in northern Rhodes. Maouri
is made on Kalymnos: this is stuffed lamb roasted in a clay pot; on
Karpathos lamb is stuffed with rice, pligouri and entrails and it is called
byzanti; on Astipalea they cook lambrinos, while on Kassos they cook
derbiye (magiritsa: a soup with entrails, rice and herbs). Sweets made
for celebrations such as weddings, betrothals, childbirths and christenings are melekounia, baklava, moshoboukia and many more.

Rhodes

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There are many events held on Rhodes, especially during the summer months. Important events based on local produce are:

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The 3-day wine festival in Empona during the first ten days of
September.
The Honey and soumas festival in Sianna.
The watermelon festival in Apolakkia. This is always held on the
Saturday after the celebration of St. Marina' s nameday and dishes
made with or from watermelon are offered, while games and sports,
where the leading role is played by the fruit itself, are also held.
Geomilia in Arnitha. This festival is dedicated to potatoes and all
products made with it.
Apotheri in Lahania is a festival dedicated to wheat and its products.
Festivals dedicated to olives and olive oil take place in Laerma and
Apollona.

Karpathos

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Every year, on the 3rd of November, on the day of St. George the
Drunk, farmers in Karpathos organize traditional celebrations and revive
customs of Dionysian and Byzantine roots.

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.

On Lastos plateau, in particular, they hold a wine festival. Crowds

of people attend this event for a free taste of Adam's wine, which is
what local wine-makers call their wine. Wine degustation takes place to
the musical accompaniment of lyre and flute music.

Kassos

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In the beginning of September, at St. Mamas, on Kassos, a church

built on the most secluded cliff of the island, the Yorti ton Voskon [literally: Shepherds' Festival] is held. Merrymaking goes on throughout the
night and the most typical treat is coriander-flavoured bread.

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Symi
On the 9th of August, every year, the Women's Association of
Symi organizes the Symi Garidaki (baby shrimp) festival, hosting music
and dance events.

Tilos
In the heart of summer (St. Panteleimon's nameday) at Mikro
Horio, the Summer Feast takes place and traditional dishes are offered.
In addition, in August, below the Harkadio cave, another festival is held
to honour honey and traditional products.

the dodecanese - waves of f lavour

Nysiros
On one of the days following the first ten-days of August the
soumada Festival is organized on Nysiros.

Kos

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The most famous festivals on the island are:

The Fish festival which is held every summer in the Municipal
District of Kardamena
The Ouzo Festival and the Trawl-drawing Festival are held in the
Municipal District of Kefalos
The Honey Festival is held in August in the Municipal District of
Antimacheia on the first Saturday evening following the 15th of
August.
The Pig Slaying Festival is held in the beginning of every October in
the Municipal District of Pilio

145

Astipalea

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The festival of Virgin Mary Portaitissa is held from the 14th to the
16th of August and it is the major celebration of the island. There is
plenty of wine drinking and sampling of local dishes, such as stuffed
lamb, labrinios; there is also yaourtotaisma [literally: 'yoghurt feeding'],
where people feed each other yoghurt while blind-folded. In addition,
in the first weekend of September the Municipality organizes the Earth
and Sea Festival, during which people go fishing and the fish caught is
offered along with fresh cooked fish called Astipaleotika pandremena (a
traditional dish made with various pulses mixed with rice or pasta).

Leros

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A number of events take place on Leros; they are associated with

rural activities, traditions and the culture of the island.

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On a coastal threshing floor on the coast of Gourna the Threshing

Festival (Alonaris) is held, with traditional music and dancing.
The festival of St. Fanourio is held on the 27th of August in
Xirokambos, where they reconstruct the pressing of grapes.
The Festival of Drymon, a celebration of wine makers and viticulturists, takes place on the beach by the same name. It is a celebration
of Leros' Cuising, where ample food, wine and other drinks are
offered.
Every September at Panteli they celebrate the Yorti tis stratas ke
tou psara, which is a Festival for trawl fishing.

Patmos

. .

Every year on Patmos a festival of flavour and tradition is organized;

it is held at Patmos' harbour and it is a celebration of culinary culture.
Visitors can sample numerous Patmos' products as well as products of
the surrounding islands, and experience many gastronomic surprises.

Leipsoi

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In the beginning of August, every year, the Municipality of Leipsoi

organizes the three-day Wine Festival, their basic summer event. The
role of this celebration is to make local products more widely known
and to recognize their significance for the socio-economic life of the
region; the festival also highlights the handing down of the historic and
traditional culture of the island from generation to generation. Leipsoi
belong to Association of Greek and European Wine-Making Towns.
During this festival, there is an exhibition of rural products as well.

the dodecanese - waves of f lavour

146

147

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Maouri
Maouri* is served throughout the Dodecanese, but answers to different names. On Kalymnos it is called mouri, in the
town of Archangelos in Rhodes it is known as rifiki, in Monolithos it is paschatis, in other villages it is known as kapamas,
in Chalki as ofto [literally: 'roast'], etc.
Wash the lamb and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Prepare the stuffing as follows: saut? the onion in olive oil for 4-5 minutes till lightly brown. Add the liver and let it turn rosy red. Add the wine and
let the entrails simmer for 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes, stir and remove from the fire. Let the liver cool in its sauce and then add all other ingredients including the spices and rice. Mix thoroughly. Use this mixture to stuff the lamb's belly and truss together with cooking string.
Place the lamb inside a deep clay pot or in a deep oven tray the base of which is covered with three grease baking paper sheets. Break and spread
the bay leaves over the paper surface, rub the butter over the whole lamb, sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Close the wrapping paper up
tightly; if there is a lid for the pot, seal and cook at 1500-1800 C for 5-6 hours. Serve the lamb hot with its stuffing.

148
*

Literally: a clay dish for baking, a deep pot with a lid.

Ingredients (to serve 10-15)

A whole small lamb
Salt, pepper
2 bay leaves
1 Tablespoon fresh butter
For the stuffing
1 finely chopped lamb's liver
1 cup olive oil
2 large finely chopped onions
2 large finely chopped ripe tomatoes
3 Tablespoons pine nuts
2 Tablespoons finely chopped dill
1 cup red wine
2 cups Carolina-type rice
tea spoon cinnamon
2-3 ground cloves
tea spoon of cumin
Salt, pepper
3 grains of allspice

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Stuffed calamari

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agriadia

Agriadia: large calamari common in local waters

Kassos
Wash and clean the calamari but don't cut them. Remove the membrane from the body. Remove only the heads (the tentacles); use a small knife
to cut out the eyes - so they do not pop out while they cook - and the mouth.
Finely chop and saut? the onion in olive oil. As soon as it turns slightly golden, add the chopped calamari tentacles, half the tomatoes, the parsley,
the salt, the pepper and the rice, as well as one cup of water.
Cook the stuffing for about 6-8 minutes on very low heat.
Let the stuffing cool completely.
Stuff the calamari through their open side and use a toothpick to close that side, if they are medium size. If agriadia are used, truss them using
white thread.
Place the calamari in a small oven tray; pour the wine over them along with the rest of the tomatoes, a little more olive oil and some water. Add
salt and pepper. Cook in the oven at 1500 C for about 40-50 minutes.

150

( 8-10 )

Ingredients (to serve 8-10)

kilo of large calamari; if Agriadia" are used, 3 large
ones.
For the stuffing
1 cups rice
2 ripe tomatoes, peeled
3 large onions, grated
1 small bunch of finely chopped parsley
1 cup olive oil
1 cup white wine
Salt,
Pepper

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Doulma(de)s
Kassos

Fried octopus meatballs

Ingredients (to serve 10-12)

Kalymnos

1 kilo vine leaves fresh or tinned

Clean the octopus, removing the mouth, eyes, sand and ink which are all in its
"hood". Put fresh octopus in the freezer for 3-4 days before you cook it so that
its flesh softens.
Take the octopus out of the freezer and before it has fully thawed put it
through the meat grinder. You can also finely chop the octopus with two
knives, but this requires time and skill.
Place the octopus in a sieve and let it drain thoroughly.
Soak the bread in the wine and vinegar. Wring it out well so that it is com-

Ingredients (for 10 people)

1 kilo octopus, fresh or frozen
2 cups bread crumbs (soft)
cup red wine

1 teaspoon fresh butter (optional)

1 potato (optional)
1 large lemon
For the stuffing:

leave in the fridge for about an hour so that the mixture binds and flavours
mix.
Place the vine-leaves in boiling water for about 1-2 minutes. Cut leaf stems and
divide the leaves into two or three pieces, depending on their size.
Use a very small amount of stuffing for each leaf and shape the dolmades; they

kilo beef mince

should be very small and tightly wrapped.

2 large onions, finely chopped

kilo pork mince

Place a layer of vine leaves or sliced potatoes at the bottom of the pot, so that

1 Tablespoon of oregano
A pinch of salt
2 cups flour

salt and the pepper. If your mixture is runny, add a Tablespoon of flour. Shape

Freshly ground black pepper

Olive oil for frying

3-4 large onions, grated

kilo tomatoes, seedless & peeled
1 cup olive oil
1 cups of Carolina-type rice

your dolmades won't stick. Place the dolmades tightly close to each other.
Pour one cup of water over the dolmades and add a teaspoon of butter, if you
want. When the dolmades are half-cooked, add the juice of one large lemon
and continue cooking for another 20 minutes.

Salt

olive oil.

Pepper

Place the octopus meatballs on absorbent kitchen paper on a dish to drain

teaspoon of sugar

excess oil.

Place all stuffing ingredients in a bowl. Mix thoroughly with your hands and

2 Tablespoons vinegar

pletely dry and add it to the octopus mixture with the onion, the oregano, the
the meatballs with your hands, cover them in a thin layer of flour and fry in

152

( 10-12 )

the dodecanese - waves of f lavour

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Thrapsala (baby calamari)

with green beans
Karpathos
Clean the thrapsala, remove their body membrane and wash well. Keep some
of their ink. Peel the onions and cut them into four. Saut? the calamari in olive
oil. Add the onions and a cup of water and let them simmer for 10-12 minutes. Then add some salt, pepper and the tomato paste. After simmering for a
while, add the green beans and a glass of warm water. Stir in the ink, if you
want to. Cover the pot well and let the dish cook for an hour and half.

Ingredients (8-10 people)

Ingredients (serves 6-8)
1 kilo thrapsala

1 kilo medium-size beans

Beans (lopia) with lamb and

goat in the oven
Rhodes

1 kilo lamb and goat meat cut into

portions

Soak the beans in plenty of water for 8-10 hours. Drain them and place in a

kilo fresh green beans

4 large tomatoes pulped

pot with plenty of salted water to boil for 20 minutes. Strain them once more

4 finely chopped onions

2 medium onions pulped

and place them in an earthenware pot with a lid. Add the meat, which you

2 teaspoons tomato paste

1 cups olive oil
Some of the calamari ink (optional)
Salt
Pepper

the dodecanese - waves of f lavour

. .
. ,

154

( 6-8 )

4-5 garlic cloves finely chopped

1 Tablespoon parsley
cup olive oil
Salt

have sprinkled with salt and pepper, and the garlic, tomatoes, onion, parsley,
olive oil, salt and pepper. Stir to mix well and add 2-3 cups of water.
Cook in a preheated oven at 2000C for 30-40 minutes. Lower the temperature to 1800C and continue cooking for at least an hour and a half.

Pepper

155

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180 . .

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Red mullet with rusks

Ingredients (serves 6-8)

Leipsoi
Clean the mullet without tearing their bellies open. Grind the rusks well, place
in bowl and add the finely chopped parsley and garlic, the olive oil, the salt and
pepper; mix well.

Ingredients (for 6-8 people)

8 medium red mullet
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

Stuff the mullet bellies with this mixture through the head, if there is any

8 barley rusks

mixture left, pour around the mullet. Place the fish in an oven tray, add salt and

2 cups water

half a cup of water; cover them with tin foil. Cook them in the oven for 15 to

1 cup olive oil

20 minutes at 1800 C. Serve the mullet hot with their stuffing.

Salt
Pepper
1 small bunch of parsley, finely

1 octopus (about 1 kilo) fresh or

frozen
200 grams olive oil
1 cup olive oil
150 grams green de-salted olives
1 roughly chopped onion
1 Tablespoon flour

Wine soaked octopus

with olives

the dodecanese - waves of f lavour

Symi
Clean the octopus and remove its mouth. Wash it and place it in a pot while
still wet on very low heat until the liquid evaporates. Add the olive oil, the
chopped onion, some salt and the pepper. Pour the wine and cook to evaporate. Mix the flour with some cold water and add to the pot. Cover and simmer on very low heat until cooked. 10 minutes before removing it from the
heat add the olives. Cut the octopus into small pieces and serve immediately.

Salt
Pepper (frugally)

chopped

156

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Lentil risotto
Chalki

Squid and calamari burgers

Ingredients (serves 6)

Patmos
Cut the squid and calamari into small pieces and wash thoroughly. Place the
squid and calamari pieces into the blender, along with some bread, the onion,
the vinegar, the red wine, the celery, the oregano, the parsley, the pepper, the
salt, the two spoonfuls of olive oil, and blend until they are a homogenous mixture. Slowly add the rusk, as much as necessary for the mixture to bind, and
then mould into burgers.
Place the potatoes in an oven tray with salt, pepper and some oregano, some
water, the rest of the olive oil and stir well. Place the burgers between the
potatoes and cook at 1800 C for about 40-45 minutes.

158

1 . .
2
5- 6 . .
3-4
2 . .
2 . .

2 . .

Ingredients (serves 8-10)

4 medium squid, cleaned
2 large calamari, cleaned
4 slices of bread without crust,
soaked and strained
2-3 Tablespoons of rusks
1 finely grated onion
5 Tablespoons of olive oil
Salt, pepper
2 garlic cloves
1 Tablespoon finely chopped celery
2 Tablespoons of finely chopped
parsley
A pinch of oregano
1 coffee cup red wine
2 Tablespoons of vinegar
4-5 potatoes

1 cup lentils medium or small

2 large onions finely chopped
5-6 Tablespoons olive oil
3-4 drops vinegar
2 cups of pilaf rice
2 Tablespoons of parsley, finely
chopped
2 Tablespoons of mint finely
chopped
a pinch of cumin
Salt
Pepper

Boil the lentils in a pot for 10 minutes (till al dente). Strain, rinse and put to the
side. Wash and finely chop the onions. One chopped onion is placed in a pot
with the olive oil and saut?ed until it turns golden. Cool it with 3-4 drops of
vinegar for some more flavour and caramele. Then stir in the lentils, add the
rice, 4 teacups of water and cook for 10 minutes. Add the parsley, the mint,
the cinnamon, the cumin, salt and pepper. Stir well, turn the heat off, cover the
lentil risotto with a cotton towel and let the rice puff up.

the dodecanese - waves of f lavour

Dry fry
Place the rest of the onion in a small pan, add the olive oil and breadcrumbs,
stir and when golden-brown, pour over the lentil risotto.

For crisp frying

1 large onion finely chopped
2-3 Tablespoons olive oil
1 Tablespoon stale bread or rusks,
crumbed

159

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Plum tomato preserve

Lambropites

Kos

(easter pies)

Ingredients (for 25 pieces)

Kos

25 plum tomatoes, not too ripe

This is how we prepare the dough: We place the flour into a bowl and make a
hole in the centre. We pour into this hole the yoghurt, the egg, the salt and 34 Tablespoons lukewarm water. We knead by hand, until the dough becomes
fluffy and smooth. If necessary, add some more lukewarm water. Let the dough
rest for 10 minutes. Roll out the pastry and cut into small pieces to fit the special oil-lamp shaped dough-cutters. Line the walls of the moulds with the
dough. Make sure the dough is equally thick all around and the sides are fully
covered.
Mix the filling ingredients to a thick mixture. Fill each dough-lined mould with
the filling and spread the top surface with the beaten egg. Sprinkle with cinnamon and pepper and bake the pies in a medium-heat oven.

Ingredients (for 30-40 pieces)

For the pastry

1 kilo sugar
2 Tablespoons lemon juice or

Peel the tomatoes, and remove their seeds using a straw. Dissolve one
Tablespoon of unslaked lime in a litre of water and boil the tomatoes for about
an hour so they become firm.
Rinse the tomatoes well with plenty of water and place them in a pot in layers:

300 gr butter

cream of tartar

1 cup yoghurt

1 small sachet vanilla powder

between. Leave for 24 hours to dry. Add 900 ml of water and boil similarly to

1 1/2 kilos of all-purpose white flour

1 Table spoon unslaked lime

all other preserves. While the preserve is still warm, add the lemon and vanilla

1 egg

25 blanched almonds

the dodecanese - waves of f lavour

( 30-40 )

10 .

160

one layer of tomatoes, one layer of sugar and so forth. Add some almonds in

for extra flavour.

teaspoon salt
For the filling
1 kilos sweet mizithra cheese
4-5 eggs
Topping
1 egg
Cinnamon
Pepper

161

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(30 - 40 )

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Leros 'poungia'

1
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2
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2

(purses)
Leros

First prepare the syrup as follows: place the water in a pot with the sugar and stir until the sugar has dissolved and the syrup binds (about 20 minutes). Gradually stir into the syrup the bread, honey, vanilla, nutmeg, and mastic. Continue by adding the ground almonds or walnuts and finally add
the sesame. Stir well, so that the syrup thickens, and put the pot aside allowing the mixture to cool. Meanwhile, prepare the dough: beat the eggs
in a small bowl. In a larger bowl pour the flour and mix with butter and olive oil. Stir in the salt, ouzo, wine, eggs - already beaten - and warm
water. Continue kneading the mixture slowly, adding more warm water, if necessary, or some more flour, until the dough is fluffy and doesn't stick
to your hands. Wrap it in cling film and let it rest for about 30 minutes. Take some of the dough and roll it out using a rolling pin, place a spoonful
of the stuffing on the edge, shape into a crescent moon and place the 'purse' on an oiled oven tray. Repeat until you run out of stuffing. Bake in a
medium heated oven at 1800 C for about 15 minutes.
When they are cooked, spray with flower-water and sprinkle with ample icing sugar.

Ingredients (30-40 pieces)

For the dough
1 kilo flour (all purpose)
3 eggs
A pinch of salt
3 Tablespoons butter
1 wine glass ouzo
1 wine glass vegetable oil
1 wine glass white wine
2 glasses warm water
For the stuffing syrup
1 litre water & 700 grams sugar
For the stuffing

162

1 kilo ground blanched almonds or walnuts

3 slices of bread without crust
2 Tablespoons of honey
2 vanilla sachets, teaspoon nutmeg
2 mastic nuggets ground with some sugar
cup roasted sesame seeds slightly ground
in the blender

164

Gastronomy Glossary

Karpathos

, ,
, , . . ,
.

Anderjia Stuffed entrails, which have been washed thoroughly, stuffed

with rice, small pieces of meat and several spices; the stuffing has first
been saut?ed in a frying pan. These are then sewn up and placed into
a pot of boiling water to cook. In the end, they are fried to become
crunchier.

. ,
, .

Byzanti An Easter delicacy. Lamb or kid stuffed with spices, finely

chopped liver and rice, slowly cooked in an earthenware pot.

.
.
, .
.
.

()
.

Kassos
Agriadia Thrapsala (large calamari) cooked in a frying pan; their flesh is
sweet and juicy.

. .
4-5 "".

Elaiki A unique cheese of Kassos. In a clay or glass bowl, pieces of

myzithra cheese are covered with milk butter. The bowl is sealed and
placed in a cool place for 4-5 months until it matures.

.
.

Koumila Cauldrons within a constructed base with a concave bottom

used for cooking on an open-air fire. They are used at fairs for the
preparation of large quantities of boiled goat and pilaf.

, , , .

Lahanopites Small crescent shaped pies made with fluffy dough and
stuffed with herbs, rice, onions and tomatoes.

Zimbilia Christmas sweet. After the harvest, a quantity of grapes is not

immediately consumed or made into wine. These grapes are used to
make raisins, which are the main ingredient of zimbilia. The raisins are
mixed and folded into fyllo pastry made on the spot. They are sprinkled with sesame.

, , . , , .

Bobaria Sheep entrails stuffed with liver and rice, slowly simmered in
very salty water with a little butter, bay leaves and whole onions. The
same stuffing is used for the preparation of boustia, which is a dish of
stuffed sheep bellies.

() .
.

Sesame biscuits (psilokouloura) Thin crunchy biscuits covered in

plenty of black sesame seeds; also made on the neighbouring island of
Kassos.

, , (
) , , ,
.

Moschopoungia Small sweet crescent shaped pies, which, similar to

those prepared on Karpathos, are stuffed with nuts (almonds or walnuts) and spices; they are baked in the oven, and when cold sprinkled
with caster sugar.

, .

Onion biscuits Perhaps some of the crunchiest and tastiest biscuits,

with lots of spices and plenty of onion.

. .

Mylla This is pork fat which is called glina on other islands. In the past
they fried potatoes or eggs in it.

. ,
,
.

Kylista Pieces of pork placed in the pot with several pieces of 'mylla'
type pork fat. This meat is then eaten on its own, as an appetizer or
used to add flavour to various pulses dishes or omelettes. The best
pieces are usually fried or stewed in tomato sauce with sesame on
Christmas Day, and they are cooked on Christmas Eve along with the
Christopsomo [literally: 'Christ's bread'].

Derbijes Easter mageiritsa soup, cooked with entrails, rice and herbs.

, , , , , .

Pasparas The stuffing of Easter lamb, which contains finely chopped

liver, rice, raisins, pine nuts, and almonds and is scented with wine and
cinnamon.

. , , () .

Makarounes Handmade pasta made with flour and water. After it has
dried out, it is boiled, 'burnt' in hot butter and served with roasted
onions.

, .
.
.

Sitaka Kind of soft, spreadable and slightly grainy cheese. Made from a
mixture of goat and sheep milk, it has a tart, acidic flavour. It is usually
served either mixed with spaghetti or spread on bread or rusks.

, .

Paklavas Type of fried and syrupy sweet treat offered at engagements,

weddings and celebrations.

, .

Garlic makarounes The traditional pasta of the island, served boiled

mixed with sitaka and covered with saut?ed onions.

Black squid risotto The epitome of black risotto, made with fresh
squid and its ink.

the dodecanese - waves of f lavour

165

Tourtes Cassos' Easter sweets are very similar to the anevata (risingdough) kalitsounia of Crete. They are stuffed with a mixture of sweet
and savoury myzithra and scented with cinnamon.

Rhodes

, .

Alefaskia (sage) The favourite herb of Rhodes, which is widely used to

condiment meat or baked goods.

.
, .

Amaragi This is the name given to the daisies that bloom in May, the
sprouts of which can be eaten boiled with vinegar and scordalia (garlic
dip). The same frugal dish is served on Kassos, where the daisies are
called amarji.

, .

Karavoli This is the name given to snails on Rhodes; they are usually
cooked in red sauce with plenty of onions and cumin or with pligouri,
as they do in Crete.

Glystrida (Common purslane) CASSEROLE Cooked with vlita

(Amaranta greens) makes a very tasty and garlicky casserole.

, , ,
.

Mandinades A type of small pancake, which, is fried and then placed

into honey diluted with rosewater and garnished with finely chopped
almonds.

Melathi or mavrouli or mavrosisamo The black sesame often added

to bread products of the island, such as olive bread and Ephtazyma
(bread made with dough fermented with chick-peas).

. , (, ), . , ,
, .

Moschopoungia A very common sweet throughout the Dodecanese.

It is a crescent-shaped desert served at festivals and other celebration
occasions; it is stuffed with a mixture of dried fruit and nuts, rusks and
spices such as cinnamon and clove; they are usually used as treats at
engagements and name day celebrations. There are many variations,
mainly regarding the stuffing, using walnuts, almonds and sesame.

-
.

Ofios Bread prepared for the celebration of Lambri (Easter), shaped in

the form of dragons or snakes, usually given to children.

, ,
.
-
.

Apricot puree Kaisi is the name given to apricots on Rhodes, borrowed from neighbouring Turkey. The skin of the fruit or the entire fruit
is used for the preparation of a fine puree served as a preserve, similar
to that made with quince.

, .
,
, .

Perikaftes Slices of bread roasted on fire, charcoal or a grill. They are

dipped in olive oil or sprinkled with crumbled feta cheese, or even
sugar, and served to accompany sage herbal tea.

"" (
) .
(, , ) .

Pichti This is a mixture of small pieces of meat and the broth from a
boiled and seared (to burn the hair) hogshead. It harmoniously blends
a variety of spices such as bay leaves, pepper, cumin and the juice of
lemons and Seville oranges.

,
, "", .

Pitaroudia or fried chick-pea balls Blended boiled chick peas are

mixed with plenty of finely chopped mint, onions and tomato; they are
shaped into balls and fried in very hot oil.

Takakia Fried baklava cut into small pieces and covered in syrup.

Symi

: .

Akoumia Served at every festival or wedding throughout Symi: they

are the island's traditional sweet rice dumplings.

""
, . .

Misokofti The simplest and most frugal sweet in times of need; it is

made with frangosyka (prickly pears), which are to be found all over the
island. It is essentially a wonderful fine cream.

.
.
.

Xeroteganise A type of simple sauce poured over tasty dolmades. It

is made with finely chopped onion and bread crumbs which are fried
in olive oil until golden brown. Sometimes the same sauce, without the
bread, is poured over chickpea risotto.

, (,
, ) . .

Pitaridia Flat meatballs made out of mincemeat, with many spices such
as mint, cumin, oregano and several onions. Fried in plenty of olive oil.

( ,
, ) , , .

Poungia [literally: 'purses'] Crescent shaped sweets, which are similar to those of Kassos, Rhodes and Karpathos, are stuffed with dried
fruit and nuts, ground rusks, sesame, spices, and wrapped in caster
sugar.

() ,
.

Tourtes Mainly Easter cheese pies made with fluffy bread dough and
stuffed with the local yellow cheese, egg and mint.

Halouvas Oily halva, made with semolina or flour.

[Translator's note: Literally, it means 'half cut' and refers to the deep earthenware pot with a lid used for the sweet preparation].

the dodecanese - waves of f lavour

166

.
.

167



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northeastern aegean - waves of f lavour

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169

Northeastern Aegean
The land
Lemnos and Lesbos, the islands of olive groves and vineyards with a rich and diverse natural landscape, the islands of the petrified forest and
warm springs, with centuries-old culture, a tradition in ouzo and wine-making, these islands of culinary delights are situated in the Northeastern
Aegean and along with Agios Efstrations and make up the Prefecture of Lesbos.

ests in the region, such as the Athenians, the Persians, the Macedonians, the Romans and, later on, the Byzantines, the Ottomans, the Venetians,
the Genoese and, even, the Russians; they all wanted to establish marine bases to develop sea trade and control the major sea routes towards
Constantinople and the Black Sea, as well as Cyprus and the broader Eastern Mediterranean regions. The islands had many conquerors in their long
history. Furthermore, due to their size, productivity, mercantile and maritime activity, they established communication and cooperation channels
with both nearby and distant harbours, such as those of Asia Minor, the Black Sea, Egypt as well as the Western Mediterranean. These contacts led
to the adoption of new life styles and to the integration of several features from both the East and the West into the everyday life and culture of
the two islands.
The various conquerors introduced new models, new cultivations and new techniques. In the last years of the Ottoman occupation the cultivation of cherry trees1 was introduced, replacing many fig trees, as silk did not have the absorption expected. The cultivation of citrus fruit was introduced by the Genoese; they began importing them from the Orient, after finding out that these evergreen trees could grow in the region.
A walk into the alleys of small hamlets, but also interaction with the people and participation in everyday life are sufficient to help anyone realize
that no sector of life of these islands remained uninfluenced by western classical, baroque and also oriental elements: architecture, music, customs,
arts and literature and, of course, gastronomy. Cooking was greatly influenced by the cuisines of Constantinople and Asia Minor that were intro-

northeastern aegean - waves of f lavour

These islands, with rare combination of colours and landscapes, wild vegetation and rich wildlife habitats are located along the Mediterranean
sea routes to the Black Sea, very close to the shores of Asia Minor. Their location made them very attractive to various powerful suitors with inter-

duced with the arrival of Asia Minor refugees in 1922. The cuisine of the islands was infused with new flavours and products, mainly spices. At the
same time sugar was introduced from the Orient, and brought with it innumerable secrets that gave birth to flavours never known before, culminating in fruit preserves and syrupy sweets. Recipes from Arabia, Persia and Constantinople were mixed artfully with local recipes to form a cuisine
that is distinct in flavour, colour and aromas.
Typical flavours of Istanbul cuisine were introduced into the Aegean, but also to other parts of Greece; these include: sweet-sour flavours, vegetables cooked in olive oil with sauted onion, olive oil, cinnamon, sugar, lemon and dill. Festive maals are characterized by a variety of mezedes
(appetizers) with a fish base, salted fish, vegetables, entrails, meat, rice, while main courses are always accompanied by wine or ouzo. For dessert,
besides fruit, there are always syrupy and dairy sweets that are served with liqueurs and sweet wines.
Bulgur wheat is one of the staple Oriental ingredients and often replaces rice. On Lesbos you can enjoy peppers stuffed with bulgur wheat and on
Lemnos "kourkouti"2 and numerous other dishes.
By handing down their secrets and recipes from one generation to the next, housewives still prepare food that has its roots in the shores across
the sea: mandi, katmeria, kiskek, pastrami, kabob, turlu, imam bayildi, trahana (frumenty) are only some of these.

It was allegedly introduced by Lysimachos (one of the successors of Alexander the Great) from Asia Minor to Macedonia.

It looks like rice pudding but it is prepared with bulgur wheat instead of rice.

171

Local conditions and

customs

,
,
,
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, .

The economic development of the islands, as well as the productive activities of their inhabitants are closely related to the soil
and climate conditions, which, in turn, influenced local cuisine and
eating habits according to the ingredients locally produced.
The geomorphology of Lesbos is characterized by low highlands that alternate with lowlands; visitors are attracted by the
numerous olive trees that shine under the sunlight. The olive tree,
a typical sight on Lesbos, has nourished its inhabitants for centuries; it thrives in mountainous and sub-mountainous parts of the
island, the soil of which is rather poor in nutrients. The abundance
of olive oil is the reason why its inhabitants love dishes cooked in
olive oil.
There are also fruit trees, such as cherry, walnut, fig, almond
trees, etc. Many methods of preservation are applied, so that the
fruit can be consumed over longer periods. Boiling and then
preservation in some kind of syrup was selected as the safest and
simplest method. This is how sweet preserves emerged, with the
use of various spices and flavours, such as that of mastic from
Chios, add a unique flavour. Various fruit is used to make jam,
marzipan sweets or liqueurs.
The versatility of vegetation and the forests on Lesbos have
helped the development of apiculture and the honey produced is
unrivalled in nutritional value and taste.
However, the staples that have sustained local populations
through times of hardship and poverty are cereals (barley, wheat,
corn). Bulgur wheat, flomari and valanes home-made pasta are
made of wheat. Housewives combine various ingredients, creating
a variety of tasty dishes. Chick peas are used to make fried balls,
soutzoukakia (spicy balls), chickpeas with rice, broad beans are
turned into fava (dip served with oil) or fytilakia, i.e. fried beans
served with almond or chestnut garlic sauce, while other imaginary
culinary combinations stimulate all human senses. Flour from
wheat is used in bread-making and other products, such as homemade pasta; they have always been kept in the pantry for a difficult time, while offering easy solutions (cheap and tasty dishes) for
big families. Flomaria home-made pasta from Lemnos are also
famous; they are cooked with aubergines to produce an unusual
local dish called pseftopetino.
The temperate climate favours the growing of herbs, and
especially of anise that thrives on Lesbos and plays a leading role
in the flavour and aroma of ouzo, a product that has made the
island particularly famous. During a visit to the island, one cannot
but buy this transparent drink that tickles the palate and perfectly
complements fish and other mezedes (appetizers).

, ,
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'70.

Volcanic soil combined with the local climate, namely warm

and dry summers and scarce rainfall, is ideal for viniculture and
provides grapes that produce tasty, fruity wines with special aromas and high alcoholic content. Lesbos and Lemnos wines were in
great demand in antiquity: Achaeans bought wine from Lemnos,
while Mythimna wine was considered to be the nectar of Olympic
Gods.
The abundance of natural flora and soil and climate conditions
favoured the development of stock raising. Local breeds of sheep
and goats and the experience accumulated over the centuries
make dairy produce from these islands truly special; such produce
is used to prepare many dishes, such as cheese pies, filling for the
Easter lamb and soup with trahana, pasta made at home with
plenty of milk.
Given the fact that the three islands are along the migration route
of fish of the Black Sea, most fishing activities in the country take
place in their water. One of the typical local products is fish preserved in salt, the unique taste of which is attributed to the quality of fish due to the climate conditions and the regional plankton,
especially that of the Gulfs of Geras and Kalloni, which are famous
for their sardines. The need to preserve food for winter, when
weather conditions are difficult, led to preserving fish in salt, which
was particularly favoured due to the existence of salt-pans on
Lesbos.
These practices, as well as numerous festivals and social events
prove that cuisine and nutrition are not isolated phenomena, but
influenced by civilization and determined by religious, philosophical, symbolic and cultural features that have been handed down
from generation to generation over many centuries.
We should not omit to mention the particularly active presence of Womens Cooperatives on the islands; their presence is
very important and with their activities they provide valuable
employment for women; furthermore, these cooperatives
strengthen the identity of the island, preserve tradition and promote, in the best possible way, the unique local flavours and products of the islands of the Northeastern Aegean. Lets not forget
that the first Womens cooperative was established in Petra as
early as the 70s.

northeastern aegean - waves of f lavour

172

173

Dodecanese...
traditionally

Lesbos

Sea food and fish

The two renowned gulfs of Lesbos, the smaller Gulf of Gera and

the larger Gulf of Kalloni, produce lovely big shellfish: sea scallops, clams,

: , , , , , -

mussels, cockles, pen shells, fruit from the wonderful sea of the island.

A unique and mouth-watering dish is big red mullets with their entrails,

that are barbequed almost everywhere on the island.

, ,

In culinary terms, the island of Lesbos is synonymous with sea food,

, ,

the most typical of which is sardines, but, particularly, served with ouzo

and mezedes (titbits). The history of ouzo on this island starts in the

19 , -

middle of the 19th century, when the first distillation took place in

It is a hard cylindrical cheese produced from a mix of sheep and

Plomari. Tradition continues up to our days, when many distilleries with

. , -

goat milk. It has a peppery flavour, especially when it is "tamed", i.e.

a long-standing history, tradition and knowledge, produce ouzo using

"",

when it has spent a period of time in a glass bowl kept in local olive oil.

, , -

seven different aromatic plants, thus differentiating the distillation of

It is a PDO (protected designation of origin) product. Another PDO

Mutilini ouzo from that of the rest of the country and making the island

.. ( ).

product is Lesbos kasseri: a mild-flavoured cheese made with sheep

the homeland of the famous aperitif. A decisive role in ouzo produc-

.. -

milk.

tion is played by anise (Pimpinela anisum), a small annual plant that

(Pimpinela anisum), -

flourishes on the island and constitutes the main ingredient for ouzo.

The drink is aggressive and strong and usually accompanies savoury

Ladotyri (oil cheese)

Hachles - Trahanas (home made pasta)

mezedes, such as sardines and salted tuna fish 'cooked' in brine, well-

""

grilled octopus, throumbes (olives flavoured with savoury), a ripe, sweet

The mixture is boiled in big cauldrons. After cooling down, hachles

, , ,

tomato sprinkled with coarse salt, spicy tirosalata (cheese and hot green

. , ,

(pasta nuggets) are shaped, that look like small balls; they might also be

, -

pepper dip), fried courgette flowers stuffed with cheese, marinated

, , -

grated into a smaller pellet-like shape, which is dried in a draughty place

, , -

anchovies, small pickled aubergines, fried anchovy balls, fried mussel

, .

as well as in the sun. Hachles are eaten toasted over an open fire,

, , ,

balls, fried potato balls and ladotyri (oil cheese) are some of the "must"

, .

stuffed, or in a soup.

, -

dishes to sample during a visit to the island.

Olive oil

"" .

Kalloni sardines

Trahanas is made exclusively from fresh milk and cracked wheat.

, -

It is incomparable in flavour and aroma and has the best nutrition-

al value. Lesbos olive oil is a true gift of the island nature, offered by
blessed olive trees growing in the largest and densest olive grove in

, -

The most typical fish of Lesbos cuisine and an indispensable accom-

, , -

, . -

paniment for ouzo is Kalloni sardines. It is a different species of sardines

Greece.

with a shorter body and tastier flesh.

Olive trees are grown on mountainous or sub-mountainous regions

It is common on the island to "cook" sardines in salt for a few hours.

with dry soil, poor in nutrients. This is what gives local olive oil its

'' . -

Slightly salted like this are enjoyed everywhere on the island, as, for

, .

supremacy of taste and rich aromatic constituents. During the Ottoman

, ,

example, in the renowned ouzo tavernas of island beach resorts, in the

occupation, its golden colour gave Lesbos the nickname "the golden

, "" -

harbours of traditional seaside villages; often they were caught by the

island".

, -

taverna owner himself.

. -

northeastern aegean - waves of f lavour

" ".

174

175

Wine

ture of sheep and goat milk. It is a PDO product that is worth tasting

(...) -

and buying.

Lesbos wine was the most expensive wine in the markets of

ancient Athens, Rome, and Byzantine Constantinople and the only wine

. ,

served in the harems of Ottoman sultans. Unfortunately, ancient Lesbos

, , -

cheese that is produced in the summer. It is placed into a wooden

vines that produced this outstanding wine were almost totally

, -

crate, in a shady and well-aired place to "set". It is then washed in sea

destroyed by phylloxera around the middle of the 20th century.

. , ,

water and dried well. It is a lovely ouzo mezes and it can be fried to

20 .

accompany a main dish or grated to mix with pasta.

During the last decade and with great effort, island wineries managed

"".

, -

to produce Methymnian wine, a red wine of unique flavour which ages

. ,

, -

over a long period of time; it has a delicate and noble aroma and a

, -

splendid light ruby colour.

Lemnos and Agios Efstratios

One should not omit to taste melichloro or melipasto, a fresh

Lemnos muscat

The secret of the famous Lemnos wine lies in the best possible use

, , -

of the Alexandria Muscat variety. This superb variety produces two

. -

types of white wine: a sweet one and a dry one with an intense fruity

, ,

Fertile, rich and blessed, Lemnos has been known since antiquity for

: , -

aroma (of flowers and citrus fruit). It is a Very Superior Old Pale

its splendid products. Since the time of the Argonauts, who thousands

( ). -

(V.S.O.P) product internationally acclaimed.

of years ago dropped anchor in Lemnos to buy cereals and wine, until

today the island of Hephaestus provides us ith unique flavours based on

(....) .

the cultivation of vines and cereals.

The inhabitants of Lemnos are traditionally farmers and stock

Handmade pasta

breeders. Wheat, pulses, grapes, fruit and vegetables, dairy produce,

The most popular pasta is undoubtedly flomaria. This is a variety of

, , , , -

pork, kid and lamb meat, chicken, game, fish and sea food are in abun-

, , -

home pasta made with milk, eggs, flour and semolina, usually combined

, , , , -

dance; on the contrary beef is rare.

with rooster in red sauce. Homemade pasta has always been a basic

ingredient for Lemnos dishes. Flomaria, valanes, psirouk and trahana

pickled vegetables are some of the winter crops, the harvest and prepa-

, , -

(home-made pasta) for soup have always been an easy solution for a

ration of which is closely intertwined with island customs.

quick meal, as well as a handy complement for various tasty meat, poul-

, .

try or game dishes. Refugees from Asia Minor brought with them new

products and cooking methods, such as couscous, a sort of pasta made

-,

with semolina and flour from freshly-ground wheat.

, , , .
, , , , , , , , , .

-

Dried figs, raisins, sesame, grape must, wine, ouzo, honey, almonds,

The cuisine of Lemnos was greatly influenced by the Greeks of

Egypt and the refugees from Asia Minor who settled on the island.
Agios Efstratios is the small picturesque triangular island located
northwest of Lemnos; it is heaven on Earth for fish lovers! They can

northeastern aegean - waves of f lavour

really enjoy unique local dishes with splendid fresh fish.

.
. ,
! , .

176

Dairy produce

, ,

The famous Kalathaki (little basket) of Lemnos is a salty, white

, .

cheese; its flavour is reminiscent of feta cheese. Its name comes from

the shape of the cheese and the marks left on its surface by the little

basket in which it is placed. Kalathaki is made with sheep milk or a mix-

177

Festivals

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.

The kiskiek3 , brought from the East, is a festive dish; it is customarily offered as a treat at religious festivals; marzipan is offered at engagements, baklavas at weddings, fruit preserves during home visits, lazarakia
(Lazarus biscuits) on the Saturday before the Holy Week. Each kind of
pie, namely cheese pies, pumpkin pies, wild green pies, milk pies, are a
particular favourite during the Carnival period.
On Christmas Eve on Lesbos, people prepare the plate of Christ,
which is pork meat with chick peas and onions. The tradition aposortes
is still observed on Lemnos island; it is the cooking of pork meat according to a unique recipe using celery.
The traditional New Year's Day meal on Lemnos contains a variety of dishes and desserts, as a symbol of good luck to ensure abundance of goods for the rest of the year. Except for food, however, olive
tree branches, a big pomegranate and a bowl of honey are necessarily
placed on the table, symbolizing happiness and fertility in every home.
On New Year's Eve platsenta (small walnut-filled pies) is baked, which
is traditionally prepared on a small, low table (called sofras) by women
sitting around it with their legs crossed. Other New Year sweets are
sasmades and baklava.

.
, .

Sardine Festival
The inhabitants of Kalloni on Lesbos celebrate their most famous
product during the first week of August. On these days you can enjoy
the famous sardines with ouzo, traditional music and dances.

, .
, ,
, .
, , , , .

The Bull Festival

The festival that involves the slaughtering of a bull in Lesbos is dedicated to the memory of Saint Haralambos; it takes place in the beginning of spring (rather than in February, which is the conventional
Church Feast) and lasts three days.
First, keshkek, the traditional dish is prepared; then a beautiful young
animal is selected, which is wreathed and paraded around the narrow
streets of the village accompanied by musicians playing traditional
instruments and mule-riders. Finally, they everyone moves towards the
mountain, where the little church of Saint Haralambos is situated.
There, in the yard of the church, the animal is slaughtered and then
cooked, while drinking, eating, music and dance go on throughout the
night.

178
3

, .

Made of ground chick peas, wheat and pork meat.

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LEADER. ,
,
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Agrotourism Festival
The Agrotourism Festival is organized every summer between July
1st and September 30th at the Museum of Natural History of the
Petrified Forest in Sigri, Lesbos, financed by the LEADER Community
Initiative. Visitors have the opportunity to get informed about, taste and
even buy select local products of the island, such as sweets and jams,
pasta, ladotyri and other cheese products, wine and ouzo, salted preserves, pure lesbos olive oil and soap. At the same time events of
Greek folk music, dance and drama performances are organised.

...
,
.

"Glytomata"...(being saved)
It is the traditional annual festival that takes place in the district of
Megalohori of the Municipality of Plomari; during this event the end of
olive harvesting is celebrated through the revival of old time customs.

,
,
.

Ouzo Festival
It takes place at the end of July in Plomari; it lasts for a week, during which local mezedes and various types of ouzo are offered, while
other satellite events are organized, such as musical activities and dance
performances.

, , , .

Chestnut Festival
The Chestnut Festival takes place every autumn in Ayasos, Lesbos.
This festival includes degustation of various products based on chestnuts and an exhibition of goods made of chestnut wood.

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, .. LEADER+.

Swine bazaar
On May 21st, on the name day of St. Constantine, the traditional
sale and purchase of swine ("swine bazaar") is revived in Romanos hamlet of Lemnos. Events and activities attract thousands of visitors during
the two days of the feast, which was revived through the Community
Incentive LEADER+.

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)
.

Pottery Exhibition of Mantamados

Pottery workshops, known as "tsoukaladika" or "koumaradika",
which still survive today, echo of the island's brilliant past, as an important pottery centre. They are mainly located in Mantamado, Ayiasos
and Mytilini. Numerous ceramic product are also displayed at pottery
exhibition premises scattered throughout the island and at the
renowned Pan-Lesbian Pottery Exhibition that takes place annually at
the old olive mill facilities of Mantamados, that has been refurbished and
now operates as a Museum of Industrial History. Pottery artists from
the island but also from Asia Minor shores across the sea participate in
this exhibition that takes place from the last weekend of July to the end
of August.

northeastern aegean - waves of f lavour

179

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Pumpkin pie
Lemnos
Traditional 'twisted' pie from Lemnos with pumpkin, raisins and cinnamon, wrapped in small brioches.
The night before peel and clean the pumpkin, grate it and place it in the refrigerator covered with a plate. On the day, mix the grated pumpkin
with the cinnamon, the raisins/sultanas and the sugar and wrap the pie in fyllo pastry, which is prepared as follows:
Mix all the fyllo ingredients, knead them very well together and divide the dough into small balls, one for each fyllo sheet. Cover the sheets with
'wrap' and roll them out, one by one, sprinkling with corn flour, as necessary. Place a small amount of filling at one end of each fyllo sheet and roll it
into a long stick. Cut the stick as you wish and coil it into a single or double spiral.
Place the brioches on a well-oiled and pre-heated baking tray. When the tray is full, heat the oil (or use it raw), and pour approx. 1 Tablespoon
over each brioche.
Bake the pie 'coils' at 180-200C for 20-30 minutes. When out of the oven, pour out excess oil and remove the 'coils' from the baking tray.

Ingredients
For the filling
2 kilos pumpkin (whole)
glass (or more) raisins or sultanas
approx.
1 Tablespoon cinnamon
1 Tablespoon olive oil for each small
brioche and for smearing the baking trays
approx.
4 Teaspoons sugar
for the fyllo pastry

180
(from the book "Recipes of Lemnos Cuisine" by Uranya Vagiakou.)

1 kilo flour (half wholemeal flour - half white flour)

1 small glass of olive oil
Salt
Water, as much as necessary
Corn flour for rolling the fyllo pastry

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Fish cooked in the oven with tomato

Lemnos
In a deep baking tray mix the olive oil, the tomatoes, the onions, the oregano and the parsley.
Cook the sauce for about 20 minutes at 150C, until it sets. When it is ready, place the fish in the tray and make sure that it is covered with sufficient sauce. Add some more olive oil, the garlic, the salt, the pepper and bake for 40 minutes at 200C. The fish is served warm, with its juices.

Ingredients (serves 6 persons)

2 kg fish (seabream, mullet or salema)
4-5 tomatoes, pulped
3-4 onions, finely chopped
1 small bunch of parsley
1 cup olive oil
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 teaspoon oregano
Salt
Pepper

182

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Sougania- onion dolmades

Lesbos
Peal the onions and blanche them in boiling salt water. Leave them to dry and
open them in half by cutting them with a sharp knife. Keep the 3-4 outer layers. Finely chop the layers from the heart of the onion and saut? in olive oil
along with the minced meat. Add the red wine, half of the finely chopped
tomatoes, salt, pepper, bay leaves, a little bit of garlic, and a small quantity of
water. When the minced meat is cooked and its juices reduced, stuff the
onions with it and place them in a heat resistant pot, one next to the other.
Then sprinkle some olive oil and the rest of the tomato place them in the oven
and cook in medium-heat until they are 'caramelised'.

Ingredients (serves 6 persons)

6-8 large, oblong onions
500 gr. beef minced
cup olive oil
cup red wine
2-3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2-3 tomatoes, peeled and finely
chopped
3-4 Tablespoons olive oil for topping
Salt
Pepper
Bay leaves

Ingredients (serves 4-5 people)

1 kg of beef minced
2 large onions pulped
6 thick bread slices (minus the crust,
soaked in water and strained)
4 eggs
1 teaspoon oregano
1 teaspoon cumin

Fried meatballs
with ouzo and cumin

northeastern aegean - waves of f lavour

( 6 )

Lesbos
In a large bowl knead well the minced meat with the onion, bread, eggs, spices,
salt and ouzo. Let the mixture rest in the refrigerator for 1-2 hours so that it is
firm and the flavours mix.
Shape the minced meat into meat balls, roll them slightly in flour, fry them in
ample hot olive oil and let them drain on kitchen paper.

3 Tablespoons ouzo
3-4 Tablespoons soft flour
Salt
Pepper

184

Olive oil for frying

185

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Tomatoes stuffed with octopus

Lesbos
Clean, wash and boil the octopus in some water and vinegar. After it cools down, chop it finely.
Wash the tomatoes, open them by slicing the top of and scoop out their flesh (exactly as you do for stuffed tomatoes). Keep the tomato flesh.
Pour half of the olive oil in a cooking pot and saut? the finely chopped onion for 3-4 minutes; add the octopus. Stir for 5 minutes and then add the
finely chopped tomato flesh, the parsley, the salt and pepper and the rice or bulgur wheat. Let it simmer for about 15 minutes until all liquid evaporates.
Sprinkle the inside of the 'emptied' tomatoes with salt, pepper and some sugar and stuff them with the filling. Put their 'lids' (the slice you cut off)
onto the tomatoes and arrange them in a baking tray.
Dilute the tomato paste in water, add the remaining olive oil and mix. Pour the mixture over the tomatoes, sprinkle with rusk crumbs and bake at
170C for approx. 35 minutes.

Ingredients (serves 6 persons)

8 medium-sized tomatoes for stuffing
600 gr. octopus, finely chopped
3 onions, finely chopped
2 Tablespoons parsley
200 gr. rice or bulgur wheat
3 Tablespoons rusk crumbs
1 cup olive oil
1 Tablespoon tomato paste
Salt
Pepper
1 teaspoon sugar

186

1 teaspoon vinegar

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Baked quinces
Ingredients: (serves 10 -15 persons)

Lesbos

northeastern aegean - waves of f lavour

Peel the quinces, cut them in half, remove their seeds and soak them in cold
5 kg quinces
2 kg sugar
1 litre red wine
1 wine glass of brandy
2-3 small cinnamon sticks
Cloves
the juice of 2 lemons

water with the lemon juice.

Pre-heat the oven at 200C. Strain the quinces and place them in a heat-resistant baking dish. Stick a clove into each quince piece. Sprinkle with sugar and
the cinnamon sticks.
Pour the wine and the brandy over the quinces and cover them with aluminum foil.
Bake at 1800C for about 60 minutes. Remove the aluminum foil and let the
quinces brown for approx. 10 minutes.
Serve the quinces in their juices.

188

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Marrow preserve
Lemnos
Peel the marrow and remove the seeds; cut it into small square pieces (2x2
cm) or shape it into spirals using a special utensil. Prepare the whitewash/lime
water by pouring the glass of whitewash and the 14 glasses of water into a
large bowl and stirring it very well until diluted; let it settle at the bottom of the
bowl, strain the water and put it into another bowl. Place the marrow pieces
in the whitewash/lime water and leave them for at least 2 hours. Then rinse
them thoroughly and strain them.
Prepare the syrup in a pot by boiling the sugar in the water. When it sets, add
the marrow pieces and boil them for a while. Let them rest for 24 hours and
then bring the syrup to the boil again, after adding the citrate until it sets prop-

Galatopita
Ingredients (for 2-3 jars)
1 kgr marrow
4-5 cups whitewash/lime water
(1 glass of whitewash/lime,
14 glasses of water to dilute it in)
teaspoon citrate
For the syrup

Ingredients (for approx. 20 pieces)

2 litres of fresh milk
640 gr. flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
7 eggs (whole)
2 cups of sugar

(milk pie)

Lemnos

northeastern aegean - waves of f lavour

14

( 2- 3 )

In a large bowl mix the milk with the sugar and then add the flour, the eggs
you have beaten well, the baking powder and the butter; stir all ingredients into
a smooth mixture. Pour the mixture into a medium-sized baking tray and place
in the oven. Bake at 180C for approx. 30 minutes until the top turns golden
brown.

2 Tablespoons fresh butter

in room temperature

1 kgr sugar
600 ml water

erly. Take the preserve off the heat, let it cool and keep it in jars.

190

191

192

Gastronomic Glossary

Lesbos

(, , ) .

Almyro (salty dish) "Almyro", on Lesbos, is the name given to any fish
preserved in salt (sardine, mackerel, tuna); it accompanies ouzo and it
is served in a small dish with a little olive oil and raw onions rings.

, , , , , , , .
.

Vassilopita Ayiassou (new year's pie of Ayiassos) A kind of New

Year's pie made with dozens fyllo pastry sheets; they are layered with
a filling made with cheeses, finely ground spices, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, ginger, and fennel seeds. One can find it all year round in Ayiassos;
it is sold by the kilo as a type of sweet.

( )
.

Vrasma A syrup, like grape juice preserve, made with black ripe figs.

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Giuzlemedes A kind of small pie fried in ample olive oil; there are
sweet and savoury variations such as dry mizithra cheese, cinnamon,
sugar - grated courgettes, pepper, spearmint, kefalotyri cheese.

. .

Kaynar A strange tea-like concoction served hot in Ayassos. Its composition is kept secret, but, except for herbs, it contains cinnamon and
salep (type of orchid tubers).

() , .

Keshkek or kishkech() Festive dish, made with ground chick peas,

wheat and pork meat.

,
. .

Lazarakia Small human-shaped sweet bread rolls, stuffed with a mixture of raisins and spices. They are baked on the Saturday before Holy
Week (St. Lazarus' Day).

Louloudia (flowers) Courgette flowers stuffed with a mixture of

cheese and spices.

,
(640 ).

Misokaliki Old ouzo bottle, which contained a quantity equal to half

an oka (640 grams).

Baklavu or baklavas White baklava made exclusively with finely

ground blanched almonds.

Myzithrohalvas A speciality of the Molyvos region, made with fresh

cheese and syrup.

. .
, .

().

Platsenta Sweet made with thin fyllo pastry. Syrup is added after it has
been removed from the oven; it is served cold. Sometimes it is sprinkled with walnuts, cinnamon and sesame.
Sougania A kind of dolmas made exclusively with (oblong) onions.

Soumada zesti (hot almond-based drink) One of the few places in

Greece, wher soumada is served hot sprinkled with cinnamon.

, .

Sykopastelo Tasty and soft sesame pastelli (bar), reminiscent of pastokydono (quince jelly) made with ground figs.

. , .

Touloumi Goat or sheep skin "bag". A white spicy cheese was fermented in it, the renowned touloumotyri.

Lemnos - Agios Efstratios

, .

Valanes Home made pasta, a specialty of Lemnos.

. ""
.

Vnzelika Little sweets made with almonds and white icing. They are
a type of small treat that was allegedly served to Eleftherios Venizelos,
a famous Greek politician, when he visited the island.

.
,
. .

Katmer A kind of fried pie made with simple dough. It is very common even today in Ayvali, Tsesme and Marmaris. It is served with
cheese and preserved grape juice.

() .

urkouta Type of sweet similar to rice pudding but made with

cracked wheat (bulgur) instead of rice.

, .
.

Lazaroudia Small human-shaped sweet bread rolls, filled with a mixture of dried figs. They are baked on the Satruday before Holy Week
(St. Lazarus' Day).

""
.

Louloudia (flowers) A kind of sweet that resembles "diples" offered at

special occasions; it is served with honey and finely ground almonds

,
1921-1922.

Mandi Type of minced meat and trahana pie; a recipe clearly influenced
by the dietary habits of Asia Minor Greeks who settled on the island in
1921-1922.

. .

Trahano Trahanas (home made pasta) made with full-fat sheep milk,
semolina or cracked wheat.

, .

Flomaria A type of small home-made pasta made with milk, eggs, flour
and semolina. After they are dried, they are eaten as pasta accompanying meat or game.

, ,
. , .

Feloudia A simple sweet made with slices of sweet pumpkin sprinkled

with sugar, cinnamon, raisins and some olive oil and baked in the oven.

, , .

Samsades New Year's sweet similar to baklava; it is made with rolled

fyllo pastry stuffed with almonds.

.
, .

Psirouk (dumplings) They used to be made with flour. Hot water was
poured onto the flour to make small lumps (volaria), which were then
thrown into a pot of hot water and made soup.

northeastern aegean - waves of f lavour

193

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Island Tour - Waves of flavour

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.. LEADER+.

194

195

196

References - sources

Books

., , , : ,

Vitsos D., Zacynthian dishes, breads and desserts, Publ: Periplous,

2002.

Athens 2002.

., , . , 2000, (7

Lambraki M., Wild greens, Publ. Ellinika Grammata, Athens 2000 (7th

).

edition).

, ., .

Lambraki M., Cretan Cuisine. Traditional recipes selected by Myrsini

", . Myrsini's Editions, 2005.

Lambraki, Publ. Myrsini's Editions, 2005.

, . - E. Akin, - :

Lambraki M. - E. Akin, Greece - Turkey at the same table: a gastronom-

, . , 2002 (3

ic tour of both countries, Publ. Ellinika Grammata, Athens 2002 (3rd

).

edition).

, ., , . Myrsini's

Lambraki M., Useful cooking with herbs and fruit, Publ. Myrsini's

Editions, 2001, (10 ).

Editions, 2001 (10th edition).

, ., . 5.000 , .

Lambraki M., Oil. 5000 years of Flavours and Cultures, Publ. Ellinika

, 1999.

Farrlois D. & J. Marinos, , . ,

Farrlois D. & J. Marinos, Eptanesian Cuisine, Translation G. Kali, Publ.

. -, , 2000.

Ellinika Grammata-Kallisti, 2nd Edition, Athens 2000.

: , ,

Islands of the Aegean: Architecture, Ministry of the Aegean, Mellisa

, 2003.

Publishing House, Athens 2003.

Tourism Promotion Documents

: ,

Flavours of Zaros: authentic traditional recipes, Folklore Museum of

, . , 2006.

Zaros, Publ. Selena, 2006.

, , . , 2006.

Municipality of Zaros, Tourist Guide of the Municipality of Zarros, Publ.

Selena, 2006.

, 2008.

Prefectural Council for Tourism Promotion of Rethymno, Tourist

Guide Rethymno... to the beat of your dreams, 2008.

, . xplorer, 2002.

Travel Guide, Dodecanese, Publ. Explorer, Athens 2002.

, . Explorer, 2002.

Full Travel Guide, Eptanisa, Publ. Explorer, Athens 2002.

Full Travel Guide, Greek Islands - Hiking paths on Greece's islands, Publ.

, . EXLORER, 2003.

Explorer, Athens 2003.

Grammata, 1999.

, OA, 2008.

Agrotourism Network of Western Crete, OADYK, Chania 2008.

., , . , 1951

Tselementes N., Cooking Guide, Publ. Saliveros, Athens 1951 (10th

- - - - ,

Discover Greece - Ionian Sea - Corfu - Lefkada - Paxoi, Supplement in

(10 ).

edition).

12, ,

the Ta Nea Newspaper, issue 12, Ministry of Tourism Development,

Greek National Tourism Organization.

., , : ...

Fiorentinos M., Traditional Zacynthian Cuisine,publ. E.A.S. Zakynthos &

& .. LEADER II , 2001.

T. P. Leader II Zakynthos, Zakynthos 2001.

: , ,

Lesvos: Nature and Architecture, The Kathimerini Newspaper, supple-

, 8 2008.

ment Epta Imeres,August 8, 2008.

. & ., :

Psilaki M. & N., Traditional Cretan Cuisine: The miracle of the Cretan

, . , 2001.

diet, Publ. Karmanor, Irakleion 2001.

., 90 ,

Sifounakis N., 90 years since the liberation of Lemnos, Lecture, Myrina,

, , 8 2002.

October 8, 2002.

. & ., :

Psilaki M. & N., Herbs in the Kitchen: cooking with ingredients from

, . , 2001.

Nature's pharmacy, Publ. Karmanor, Irakleion 2001.

Websites

., -

Psilakis N., Popular Ceremonies in Crete - customs of the annual cycle,

The websites of the Municipalities and Departments for tourism pro-

, . , 2005.

Publ. Karmanor, Irakleion 2005.

motion of Prefectural Local Authorities of the study area and of EOT

. & ., : , .

Psilakis N., The culture of the Olive: Olive oil, Publ. Karmanor, Irakleion

, 2003.

2003.

waves of f lavour

(Greek National Tourism Organization).

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