For many years, I had traveled around India andwondered how to take advantage of the tremendouscraftsmanship that exists in the depths of India. Whether itis in Nagaland or Gujarat, Kashmir or Bengal, India’s heri-tage has been rich with artisans.Yet, for all its creativity, the sophistication of designand quality of finish were always elusive. Indian designswere always too complex, too busy. Thus, the potential fora strong international brand that could transcend culturesand appeal to a wide audience somehow eluded India.The answer came to me gradually, and received apropulsion during a vacation in Italy in the Spring of 2007.We were staying with Carol and Ginou in the Tuscan villageof San Giovanni d’Asso. One evening, their friend Alessan-dro came for dinner. Alessandro had been a top executiveat Giorgio Armani in Milan, and had traveled widely in In-dia.The question I was asking was also on his mind.And that evening, under the Tuscan moon, Urja was born.Urja, by the way, means
born out of creative energy
in San-skrit.Over the next two years, we simply kicked aroundthe ideas, talked with people, and worked on recruiting acore team that could pilot our concept. Our core hypothe-sis was that if Italian designers were made to work with theartisans in India in various communities, design sophistica-tion could be achieved.We tested this with Lucknow
Chikan
as part of thepilot. Our Italian designer team in Milan and our
Chikan
team in Lucknow worked together to exchange designideas. When the first set of designs came out of this pilot,we were delighted to see the simplification that the Italianteam had been able to achieve, without losing the beauty,intricacy, and charm of the original art form.A simple set of the most elegant dress shirts hadbeen created.Alessandro and I were primarily concerned with thefact that Indian designs were too complex for global taste,so this was a major milestone for us to reach to convinceourselves that sophisticated design was, indeed, possiblethrough this cross-cultural exchange.The next two big issues were “cut” and “quality control.”Indian designers had very little experience of what Icall “design for manufacturability” that is essential for ascalable ready-to-wear industry to come together. Theyhad experience in designing
salwar-kameez, ghagra-choli,or saris
, but very little in western clothing.The industry had to be trained in cut and manufac-turing to spec. For this, we turned to Alessandro’s contactsin the Italian fashion industry, and recruited a top-notchteam of manufacturing experts. Even on the Quality Con-trol issue, we had the Italians train our teams in India.With those 3 legs of our plan in place, we wentand raised money. I convinced Alessandro to forget hisretirement ideas, and take the CEO role. French BillionaireFrancois Pinault, who also owns Gucci among other fash-ion brands, funded the concept, and his company becameour long term investor through the next 11 years of Urja’sevolution.We created the Urja brand using the Internet, aswell as retail channels. Today, we have flagship stores onChamps-Élysées in Paris, Via Condotti in Rome, Fifth Ave-nue in New York, among others.Our advertising campaign was very Web 3.0. Sev-eral of our Italian designers and Indian artisans becamecelebrities on the internet, since we encouraged them toengage with the customers on social media and theGlam.com network.The side-effect was that we carefully monitoredcustomer feedback, and in fact, engaged customers withour designers almost as pre-design focus groups, online.We learned so much through these interactions, andevery time we were about to launch a new concept, wecould go back to our core customer base and check theassumptions.One by one, we incorporated Tassar silk fromBengal, Rajasthani Block Print techniques, Dhakai Jamdanifabrics, Gujarati mirror and bnadhni work, Kashmirishawls, even tribal artisans’ work, into our collections.We paid attention to every detail – from buttonsto draw-strings. We had artisans who specialized in mak-ing the most unique collections of buttons and cuff-links!Our Italian-Indian fusion brand became a sensa-tion, injecting a sense of novelty and creativity into theglobal fashion world that had, by and large, become bor-ing.And most importantly, we were able to build afinancially sound, compelling business that is now sup-porting the livelihood of 100,000 artisans across India.Urja, indeed, was born out of creative energy.However, the business was chiseled and sculpted care-fully, keeping in mind the core nuggets of our vision: sim-plicity, detail, sophistication and quality.And with that, we seduced the fashion world.
Vision India 2020: Urja
"Business opportunities are like buses, there's always another one coming."
- Richard Branson
THE ENTREPRENEURPage 2
The author is a well known Silicon Valley entrepreneur who has founded 3 companies, is a strategy consultant for over 70 companies, including SAP and Cadence amongothers, and the content from her popular strategy blog at www.sramanamitra.com is syndicated by Yahoo! Finance,Indian Daily, etc. She also writes a weekly column for Forbes.
©Sramana Mitra
www.ecell.iitkgp.ernet.in
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