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April Gornick & Eric Fischl Edible

April Gornick & Eric Fischl Edible

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Published by Steve Carlson

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Published by: Steve Carlson on Dec 07, 2011
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12/07/2011

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INTHEKITCHENWITH
APRILGORNIKAND
ERICFISCHL
Twopaintersthriveoneggs,homemadebreadandambitiousdinnerparties.
BYBRIANHALWEILPHOTOGRAPHSBYLINDSAYMORltlS
NORTHHAVEN-ThehorneofartistsAprilGomLkandEricFischl
is
perchedabovefreshwaterwetlandsandsurroundedbygnarledwildcherr-ytreesthatstretch-tothesky.Thepathfromthedriveway,whereaChevyVoltisfedthroughabright-orangecordnearabankofsolarpanels,leadspastmatchinghis-and-hersglassstudioswithwraparoundporches;upconcretestairwaysbisectedbycollecringpoolsrharferryrainwaterawayfromthehouse;andfinally,throughanative-planesgardendottedwithJapanesema-plesablazeinautumnglory.TherobustLacinatokalepatchoutsidethefromdoorisasignofthecouple'sdeep-rootedinterestinmattersrelated
to
eating,In1975,whentherwopaintersmetattheNovaScotiaCollegeofArtandDesign,Fisch!wooedGornikwithmuIligatawnysoup,a
sa1ade
composee
andwhatGornikrecallsas"thisinsanelydeliciouscreamydamchowder."(BorninNewYorkCi£),andraised
in
suburbanLongIsland,Fischlknewthechowderaspartofhiskitchenvernac-ular.Hethinksthemulligatawnysoupcamefromthe
ALice'sRes-
taurant
Cookbook;
thesalad
was
"ahalf-assedattemptardieting,")GornikadmitsshewasnogouImand-"mymainfoodwasKraftMacaroni
&
CheeseandRaguspaghetrjsauce"-butafewyearslater,inspiredbyafancyFrenchdinner-partycircuitchatsomea
IT
schoolfriendsstarted,shegotacopyof
Mastering
.the
Art
of
French
Cooking,.
and,onanelectricskilletandhotplate
in
theillegalofficebuildingwheresheandFischlweresquatting,turnedOUt
soledebonneftmme
anda
gdteaude
crepes
withafrangipanefilling,DidthoseearlyedibleinsrallarlonsfromAprilhelpseal[hedealwithEric?"Ircertainlywentalongway,"hesays,wrappinganarmaroundhiswife'sshoulders.Dinnerpartiesremainabigpartoftheroutine,Theyregularlyhostholidayfeasts,dishingupcommunaldelicacieslikeBrazilianfishsouptoacoupledozenguests.OtheredibleendeavorsincludeGornikpushingfarmersmarketschedulesandfoodpantrydona-tionsintheSaveSag
Harbore-newslerrer,
andFischlre-creatinghis-roricMidwesternmealsasparrof
America:NowandHere,
hisambi-tious18-wheelermounted,moveableexhibirthatraisesquestionsaboutdemocracy,parriotismandtrustina
posr-Sl.l
America.BothartistshaveproducedlabelsforBedellCellars'ArtistSeries-aFischlnudekickedofftheseriesona2001magnumofmerlot,whileaGornikoceanscapegracedthe2007blancdeblancs,Mostdays,theydobreakfastandlunchseparately.Sheeatslightlybeforenoontoleaveroomforyogaandswimming,Hesipscappuccinoandmunchesgranola.Shetendsthegarden,stocksthepantryandbookstheirCSAmemberships,Hemakesbread-uageniustalent,"Gorniksays.Theirhome,designed
by
Fischlandbuiltwiththecollabo-rationofarchitectLeeSkolnick,isadornedwithacollectionofsculpture,painringsandbooksthatyou'dexpectfromaNewYorkartworldpowerduowhobothcountworksattheMet,Whi[~neyandMaMA.Fromthemainlivingroom-asoaringbamlikespacewithalibrary[hatfloatsoverhead-thehomeBowsdownintoacozydiningroomandkitchen,joinedbyafloor-to-ceilingconcreteandstuccoparrition,withheartpinecupboardsandtrim,thatholdsplates,cupsandcookbooks.AndalthoughGornikandFischlarerwoverydifferenteaters,theysharetheconvictionthatwhatweputinourmouthscanbebothmodelandmuse."Irseemslikeeverycoupleofmonths,I'mwildlyinterestedincooklngandI'llneedtomakeupanewreci-pe,"saysGornik."Idon'treallyassociateitwitheitheracreativeorfallowtimeinmystudio.ButIdothinkthatcookingandmakingartandgardeningareallparallelacrivitiesforme."
Shetendsthegarden,stocksthepantryandbookstheirCSAmemberships.He
makesbread---((ageniustalent,"shesays.
Theopeningof
America:NowandHere
inKansasCity,Mis-souri,includedrwofoodevents,Thefirstwasalunchchatfeaturedjerky,hardtackandjarsoflard."Oneofthecourseswasprecededbyahistorylessoninwhich
it
wastoldchattheMissouriRiverwasoncefullofsalmon,butthatsettlerssaidtheywouldrathereattheirdogschaneatsalmon,"saysFischl."Thechefthenservedsalmonhotdogs!"Atthesecondevent,organizedwithalocalartisrscollectivenamedBread,aspiringactivistscarnerosuponhomemadebreadandsoup.Arrendeesthrewtheirnamesintoahat,threewerecho-sentospeakabouttheirprojects,avotewastakenandthewinnerwasawardedtheevening'sproceeds."So,yes,"Fischlsays."Artandfoodareintimatelytiedrogeeher."
edi
bleeas[end,com49
 
W/JO
doesthecooking?
AG:It'sme.Hedoesbakebread,burchat'skindait.It'spartlymyfaultbecauseI'mkindofstrictabouthealththings,Likeburrer.I'malittlebitofakitchendictator.(I'mtiredofpeoplesaying"Nazi.")
Whats
yourbreakfastroutine?
AG:Ialwayseartwolocal,organiceggs,eitherfromBetteandDaleorDavidFalkowski,andsomebreadfromEric,andchivesfrommygarden.EF:Coffee,twocups,cappuccino,
first
thing.Ireadthepaper(digitalTimesReader),docrosswordand/orWordswithFriends.BolaGranolawithfruit(Aprilmakesitwithmaplesyrup)and2per-centmilk.I'mafriendof[thedesigner]icoleMiller's.andBolaishersister'sproduct.Thatwouldbeenoughreasontoupporcit,buritisdeliciousontopofchar.WegetitatCavaniolasCheeseShop.
Eggs
AG:MymomwouldmakemeeggswhenIwassick.Soft-boiled.Ericwilltellyouhistheorythatwomenlike
to
eareggsmorethanmendo.Heminks[hat'sweirdandcannibalistic.Ithinkhethinks
mar
becausehedoesn'tlikecaviar.EF:Idofindirunsettli.ng
[0
watchwomencooandgleeoverabowlofcaviar.Moresothanmenwhoalsocooandgleeoverit.Ironichowupsettheycangetatbirdsthatrobeggfromotherbirds'nestsbutdon'tmakethisconnection
[0
ournestoruterinerobbery.AG:I'mcurrentlyeatingthemscrambled.I'malittleOeDwithmyeggs.£'11getintoasoft-boiled[rungand
I'll
dothatfor
50
edible
EASTENDWINTER2012
sixmonthsorayear.Sometimesit'sonlyoneegg.Sometimesit's
rwo,
ButIdofind[hatifIeattwoeggsandapieceoftoastorahalfapieceoftoast,thenI'mjustfineforhoursandhoursandhoursandhours.
Alldreja
Premiumesprmomachine
EF:IhaveafancyespressomachineandburrgrinderbutIamnoranexpert.MycoffeeisorganicbeanscalledHurricaneEspressoIgetfrom
IGA
inSag.EverynowandthenInailagreatfoam,butitissoinconsisrentirplaguesme.Idothesamethingeverydaywithdifferingresults(whichprovesIamnotmad,just

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