Shatin Che Kung Temple Mini Research

Introduction Shatin Che Kung Temple has been built for about 120 years in honor of General Che (Che Kung), who was a respectable general of Song Dynasty. Nowadays, Hong Kong people intentionally visit the temple at Che Kung Festival. The most popular date for visiting is the second day of the new lunar month. They conduct several common practices such as beat the drum and turn the fan-bladed wheel for good luck in the coming year. In this paper, I attempt to observe the activities which people usually perform in Che Kung temple in detail during non-busiest time. I would also examine how the visitors from various nations or cultural backgrounds behave differently in their visit. The information provided has been integrated with participant observation and interviewing with the temple staff as well as worshippers at different time slot (both in the morning and afternoon). I have also chatted with the foreign and mainland visitors in order to acquire more opinions about Che Kung from their own cultural perspectives. Worship in Che Kung Temple (Outside the Main Hall) When everyone entered to the temple, I observed that visitors were willing to buy and burn incense sticks. In Chinese cultural practice, the old says in Cantonese: That means everyone has to greet their family members once you back home, you should also follow the practice of worshipping deities while you enter the temple. Baishen() is a kind of ritual action as so to demonstrate your respect to Che Kung, even through you are not believe in it in certain extent. Next to the entrance, some booths sold incense sticks and other offerings such as oil and fruit. Those sticks had categorized into different sizes1. The booths seller said the longer the incense stick you used, the more time you could connect to Che Kung. Longer sticks also
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Shatin Che Kung Temple Mini Research

imply longevity. Unlike the seller that we are normally dealing with, they had no intention to force you to try more sticks and offerings. They always said it depended on your own preference and loyalty. Before using incense sticks, most of the worshippers put some dollar coins in oil money box (oil money). The staff members are not compelling them to do so but it seems they treated it as simple habits. After that, worshippers bring their incense sticks to the ignition zone while some staff recommended people to pay some oil money for writing soundness book ( ). Worshippers gave oil money and wrote down their names (or family surnames), their wishes and the amount of money they had donated to Che Kung. One of the temple staff said the masters in Che Kung Temple would assist the worshippers to pray for their wish from the soundness book in the morning (about 7:00 a.m., the opening time of Che Kung Temple every 2 days) and hope their dreams come true in the coming year. In the meantime, the station helpers asked their names, their wishes and used a black marker to write on the paper money and paper clothes. When the incense sticks were lightened, worshippers bring their sticks as well as offerings to a small altar (incensing area). They worshipped in front of the altar for three times, while thinking their desires. Worshippers usually either stand or in bended knees during worshipping. There is no main difference for the pose; it is determined by how loyal the visitors are facing to Che Kung. Worshippers will leave 3 small incense sticks and put the rest to the incense container. The paper money and clothes will not be burnt, they will be placed to a large tray in Cantonese instead2. Staff members of the temple will burn them altogether once it is full, or sometimes just dump it. The sticks left would be used to enter to the main hall, due to the regulation set by Chinese Temple Committee which allows every worshipper to bring three small incense sticks only.
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Worship in Che Kung Temple (Inside the Main Hall) Although there were three main entrances which allow people to go inside the hall, visitors choose the middle entrance to go into. An old worshipper, Mrs. Lam said in the past, some traditional people thought if you entered the main hall by side doors, Che Kung would consider you as a bad guy or theft, but that kind of thought had already denied by the masters of Che Kung temple. Che Kung is fair to anyone who asked for assistance. Inside the main hall, again, the worshippers worship in front of the big Che Kung statue3. Most likely all worshippers will bend their knees during worshipping in showing respect. Moreover, they held their incense sticks on the top of their head while using hand case(). Their bodies moved towards to the ground and repeated for three times. Incense sticks and offerings were placed on the incense bucket and tables respectively. The procedure of worshipping Che Kung was basically accomplished. Other ritual activities inside the main hall Some ritual activities can be also acted inside the main hall. Worshippers first turned the fan-bladed wheel4. Moving-wheels in Chinese culture implied good fortune. Then they bate the drum5. Based on my observations, they beat the drums hardly for three times. It is because in Chinese southern East culture, three is a lucky number. It was observable that all the actions repeated for three times, but not two or four. Oil money should be paid before using the wheel and drum. There was no sequence of which should be done first, but most of the visitors would turn the fan wheel before drums. In addition, there is an area served for worshippers who are praying for better academic performance, called in Cantonese 6. Red rectangular papers
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were provided and visitor wrote down the names (usually their sons and daughters) and wishes on the paper. After paying oil money, your red paper would be posted on the wishing board. Since the board was located next to Che Kung Statue, the station helpers claimed that Che Kung would assist those candidates to perform better in public examinations. However, the board was no longer used for academic purpose only. Worshippers could write down any wish such as better health, better work compensations on the board. Gods of Wealth and Tai Sui () In additional to Che Kung worship, people worship Gods of Wealth and Tai Sui inside the main hall. With reference to my observation, people worship Gods of Wealth before Tai Sui. Worshippers have to buy a lucky bag( ) before worshipping those gods. There were some paper money, sandalwood and eight pieces of candies inside the lucky bag. In Chinese rituals, when the lucky bag was dedicated to the gods of wealth, they will provide some transhumant power and store in the bag. The items inside the bag would generate wealth and luck to every worshipper. Same as other Tai Sui in Chinese temples, there are sixty (originally 12 corresponding to the Earthly stems, later believed to be 60, one for each stem-branch combination) heavenly generals who help the Jade Emperor( ) in taking charge of the Mortal World. Each of them takes turn to be in charge for a year. They are normally called military generals as they are most likely containing military backgrounds. Each of their features and weapons signifies the well-being of that year. For example, if the Tai Sui of this year is one who holds a sword, it signifies holding authority for that particular year7. Everyone who born in rabbit year () should be aware of 2011, as

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Shatin Che Kung Temple Mini Research

2011 is an unlucky year for them such that they may record a loss in investment, get sick easily or encounter family concerns etc. In Che Kung Temple, the worship procedure of Gods of wealth and Tai Sui were similar, they generally included: At the beginning, worshippers should do Kowtow (bending your head) to Tai Sui and Gods of wealth in order to show our respect. Then, they put the items of lucky bag (paper money, six candies and sandalwood) on worship tables in front of the gods. Worshippers Kowtow again and eventually brings two candies and god of wealth and Tai Sui symbol(,/) to your pocket. Gods of wealth and Tai Sui have built recently and relatively less people worship them in Che Kung Temple. Gods of Wealth on right handed-side while Tai Sui on left handed-side. In some special rituals, the master of Che Kung Temple will lead his worshippers to worship the Gods of wealth, Che Kung and then Tai Shui in sequence. Masters of Che Kung were all males and sometimes they were fortune-tellers. The masters wore a knee-covered Red Pao (), holding a small golden Chinese drum. During the rituals, master would bring his participants to walk around the main hall. He also spoke some Chinese scripture and participants name. It purposed for wishing good fortune among the worshippers. Certainly, oil money should be given before the rituals. This ritual is very popular to Chinese tours such that the master conducted the activity in every 30 minutes. Fortune telling Most likely, people would ask fortune tellers about their fortune in the coming year before they left the main hall. In Chinese divination, worshippers firstly borrowed a

Shatin Che Kung Temple Mini Research

Cim Bucket() with 96 Kau Cim Sticks(). The people bended their knee in front of Che Kung and thought silently or whispers it to the deity about their question while holding the cup between their palms. Each time could only ask one thing such as health, home issues, wealth you named it. One of the worshippers said Kau Cim should be done decisively as one should not shift questions or hesitate on the question in the middle of the rite. Che Kung might fail to understand your questions. The shaking of the bucket, which is usually, tipped slightly downward, results in exactly one stick leaving the bucket and being dropped onto the floor. If multiple sticks leave the cylinder, those fortunes would not count and must be shaken again. Once a single stick falls out, that stick contains a number which leads to a single piece of yellow paper with an answer. The people bring the fortune paper to the teller and mention your lunar year birth date, Chinese zodiac and what issue you are willing to ask. Fortune teller will base on the yellow paper and information given to analyze your fortune. Mr. Wan, who worked as a fortune teller in Che Kung Temple for 5 years 8, said: there is no explanation of why the bucket has 96 Chim sticks. Moreover, we basically not compare the Kau Chim culture in Che Kung, Wong Tai Sin and Tan Hou. Each god has their own way to assist every worshipper, it is not sensible for us to put them in hierarchy. Kau Chim always emphasize on Yuan (), as every fortune teller has similar interpretations with the answers. Mr.Wan also mentioned that fortune teller was performed as business nowadays. He complained some fortune tellers exaggerate the fortune telling so as to maintain the relationship with their customers. As some worshippers were interested in hearing a full Chinese story of fortune telling, this may disobey the truth of fortune telling.

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Shatin Che Kung Temple Mini Research

The number of people visiting Che Kung temple With reference to the observations, more worshippers will visit Che Kung temple in the morning than afternoon. The peak hour should be around 09:30 to 10:30. (Che Kung Temple opens at 7:00a.m. and close at 6:00p.m.) Due to self-traveling package boost, the number of mainland people travel to Hong Kong has increased significantly. Che Kung temple is one of the famous spot sights for mainland people, the overall worshippers increase recently. On the other hand, Che Kung Temple should be one of the must-go sites for every mainland travel tour. For example, for a particular 5 days trip in Hong Kong and Macau, tourism firms basically will organize at least a morning (few hours) to visit Che Kung Temple and Wong Tai Sin. To certain extent, Che Kung temple is very attractive for the mainland travelers such that they have an opportunity to explore Hong Kong culture. People choose morning to worship Che Kung. As the old says, human is cleaner in the morning because your body is less exposed to the dirts from your surroundings. Moreover, it is highly recommended that everyone who worships any god should dress formally and tidily to show your respect. These practices had shared among the Chinese people and passed through the generations. Their siblings learned from the ancestors by visiting the gods in the morning, even if they do not believe those gods. Some visitors claim that they do not believe Che Kung, but they still come to visit for wishing peace of mind. It is because Chinese people say in Cantonese: That means Chinese people should be having an attitude of security. (This is better for everyone to believe in all gods, instead of nothing.) As a result, when Chinese people meet a new supernatural being, they are not denying to worship it.

Shatin Che Kung Temple Mini Research

People behave differently in worshipping
Mainland worshippers They are very loyal to Che Kung. They usually spend large amount of money to buy incense sticks and offerings (Generally more than a hundred HK dollars). One of the station helpers who sell the offerings said a few visitors even pay more than a thousand dollar for first time visiting. In Chinese peoples mind, they believe the more money they give to Che Kung, the more respectful to him. On the other hand, money implies their face. In order that Chinese people are not willing to lose their face, they will pay extra dollars of offerings, sticks and oil money. This situation can be also applied in paying money to fortune teller. Mr. Wan said he encountered some mainland visitors who were extremely generous. I refuse to give 10 HK dollars for Kau Chim. If my friends see it, I must lose all my face. I am not going to make this happen through my eyes. I give you 100 RMB OK? They worship Che Kung with bending knees instead of standing. Their head always move downwards. They always keep silent during Baishen but their mouth seems keep talking to Che Kung. I interpreted that they strongly believe in Baishen which could provide a platform for them to connect with gods from another natural world. Instead of facing Che Kung statue, Chinese people worship in the east, west, south and north direction. According to one old worshipper, Miss Lam, her ancestors believe that gods are not always standing in front of you. You have to make sure the god observe you. Moreover, fengshui also determine this practice. People who believe in fengshui claim that they know which direction do several supernatural beings located. Miss Lam stated that the location of Che Kung temple involves fengshui studies. Che Kung

Shatin Che Kung Temple Mini Research

Temple placed behind the hills and in front of Shing Mun River, such a good place for people to receive better fortune (). That is one of the reasons why there are so many visitors to worship Che Kung. When they are putting incense sticks to the buckets. Chinese people always choose the middle one. This is a common practice for Chinese people to locate something at the centre. In Cantonese called by Confucianism, which means everyone should maintain balance and harmony from directing the mind to a state of constant equilibrium. The person who follows the mean is on a path of duty and must never leave it. Chinese people always do what is natural according to their status in the natural environment. Men and women can carry the mean into their practices, as long as they do not exceed their natural order. This belief has a great influence to the Chinese people. They always claim the things which are put at the centre is the most important and valuable. Foreigners They are not interested in worshipping gods. They treat Che Kung Temple as site seeing. It is very difficult to find a foreigner to buy incense, let alone spending a hundred dollar for ritual activities. In western countries, they probably believe in one true god, there is no reason for the foreigners to worship someone who is not familiar with. They are also curious about incense sticks and offerings. They wonder why the items which have just brought are burnt immediately, why the people bended their knees in front of the altar. Unlike Chinese people, foreign visitors take photographs, chewing gums and chat with friends inside the main hall of Che Kung Temple. Their actions implied that they are not taking Chinese worshipping as serious stuffs. However, foreigners are willing to pay the oil money for beating the drums and turn the wealth fan-wheels.

Shatin Che Kung Temple Mini Research

They are curious about worshipping process. They feel strangle when somebody bended their knees in front of the statue. They also take some photos as reference.

Surprisingly, nearly all the foreigners conduct fortune telling. They pay attention to the teller's explanation. But they actually don't entirely trust the fortune telling. They may treat fortune-telling as an activity of getting fun or get some souvenirs (yellow paper) at Che Kung Temple. Moreover, foreigners keen on physiognomy. It is the assessment of a person's character or personality from their outer appearance, especially the face and hands. Physiognomy is usually done by fortune-tellers. In Chinese culture, people's faces may indicate such traits such as trustworthiness, social dominance, aggression. Peoples hands may imply their job opportunities, health, love etc. According to the visitors feedback, their interpretations are quite accurate. Sometimes the fortune tellers could estimate what kind of fields they work, optimistic or pessimistic, rich or poor. Their friends who have visited Hong Kong told them to come and Chinese physiognomy is one of the must-do activities. Conclusion Like other Chinese temples, Shatin Che Kung Temple has its unique ritual activities carry out. Those activities are the tools and platforms for every worshipper to show their respect to Che Kung or other gods. Moreover, each of the activities somehow reveals the behavior of Chinese people. In China, especially the southern part of the mainland, the people believe in more than one supernatural being since very god has their own strength and power. Chinese people are loyal to the gods and this kind of atmosphere have passed through the generations, regardless the technological advancement and social influence of biological science and genetics. On the other

Shatin Che Kung Temple Mini Research

hand, the foreigners are curious about Chinese cultures and rituals but they actually refuse to participate most of the ritual Photo1 fact that they believe in one true god. They Photo2 Temple as one of the sight destination in Hong Kong. activities, due to the consider Che Kung

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