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Jew-ish in print | Winter 2011

Jew-ish in print | Winter 2011

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Published by Joel Magalnick
Jew-ish in print: The Imbibe Issue
Jew-ish in print: The Imbibe Issue

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Published by: Joel Magalnick on Dec 22, 2011
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winter 2011jew-ish.com 
red, white and brut
B Tzpp Ws
Wine is like art. Only a raction o us have received the ormal education to make us true experts,but at the end o the day most o us know what we like and what we don’t. Thankully or thekosher-keeping set, the world o kosher wine is expanding ar beyond Manischewitz jam-themedavors.For years we’ve watched the Columbia Valley grow in prominence in the wine world, and ourday has fnally come: We now have a kosher wine we can call our own. The new Pacifca line romRoyal Wine Corporation, the parent company o Baron Herzog, is comprised o two wines, one romWashington’s Columbia Valley and the other rom Oregon’s Willamette Valley. The creators o thisnew line are the same gentlemen behind New Zealand’s Goose Bay wines. Last Saturday night Iwas among the 90 or so lucky individuals who had the distinction o being the frst ever to taste these wines at a fve-course pairing launch event to beneft Torah Day School.
Br Hrzg Pt Grg (Cr $12.99)Srvd wth s bss   bd   mt wth v-drd Rm tmts
While I’m not a big white wine an, the white wine I do likeis very dry (preerably very brut and sparkling). I ound thisnew variety to have a at, semi-astringent taste, almost like anoxidized Riesling.
My grandmother would lovethis wine.
It is said that when it comes to Pinot Gris/Grigio,Alsace is the place, and this Caliornian proves the adage tobe true. The Pinot Grigio was served with a seared sea bass that ell into the “I can’t believe this is parve!” category due toits rich butteryness. The fsh, while delicious in its own right,
Page 3
winter 2011
B D Tchm
Many pioneers here in the Pacifc Northwest can be cred-ited with having helped bring about what we could easily call the new Golden Age o crat beer. Thirty years ago, Seat- tle, like every other U.S. city, was living in the “dark days” obeer. Not because o the color o the beer, but because therewere so ew choices. Beer was relegated to the shel rightabove the Velveeta cheese and Wonder bread, and or goodreason. The only options were bland, watered-down Amer-ican adjunct lagers, primarily produced by the Anheuser-Busch Corporation.Then suddenly, in the early ’80s, a ew beer enthusiastsstarted building small crat breweries, taking on their inter-pretations o the British and German styles that they oundcould easily be replicated here in the United States. Alongwith those crating the beers were merchants and distribu- tors who believed strongly in bringing quality crat beers romall over the world to U.S. cities in order to grow a culture obeer appreciation. Among who we can now call the crat beerpioneers o the Pacifc Northwest are Charles and Rose AnnFinkel, the original and now current owners o the Pike Brew-ing Company in Pike Place Market.Their story is unique and inspiring. This Jewish amilymoved to Seattle in 1974 to help grow the wine industry, thenwent on to become one o the most inuential crat beer mer-chandisers, creators and lovers that to this day create bothunique and classic crat beers, renowned world-wide.Pike Brewing was ounded in 1989, making it the fth orsixth oldest brewery out o 150 in Washington State. Accord-ing to Charles, o those fve predecessors some are ownedby global corporations and one went out o business. “Thatmakes us one o the pioneers o crat brewing,” he said.As vintners frst, “we were constantly looking or goodbeer, as all serious oodies do,” Charles continued. “Whether they regard themselves in the wine business or the ood busi-ness, i they have good sense o taste, beer should be part o their gastronomy.”At the time, Charles was being consulted or design, mar-keting strategies, and even recipes or many o the larger cratbrewers in Europe. One that you might recognize is SamuelSmith beers, which he helped design and market or yearsbeore he started Pike Brewing. He has continued on as theart director or many international beers since then, with RoseAnn being responsible or color and name creation on manyo their beers as well.Charles and Rose Ann are also credited with helping tostart and build the Chateau St. Michelle brand, now one o the largest and most prominent wineries in the United States.When they started Bon Vin back in 1969 (which has sincebeen sold), it was the frst company to represent the “bou- tique wines” o America. Now that term is used regularly, but the Finkels are responsible or being among the frst to market these unique and obscure high-end wines nationally. Some o the frst wineries represented by Bon Vin were St. Michellewinery, as well as Sutter Home, Dry Creek, and Fetzer —beore any were the household names they are now.“Having that experience with wine, we decided to pursuebeer,” said Charles. So they started Merchant du Vin. “Wehad a lot o un importing beer with Merchant du Vin; we wereinnovative as we were the frst to do such a thing. During that time, we established a lot o nice relationships that we main- tain to this day.”
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out of the dark
Page 8
PHoTo CouRTeSy CHaRleS anD RoSe ann finkel
 winter 2011
Evan s Collection
The frstdedicatedKosherwinery inthe PacifcNorthwest
xplore the Pacifc Northwest 
Discover Pacifca Wines 
Featuring independent, family-owned European andFrench wines since 1978. We travel to France yearly and import directfrom France.5436 Sand Point Way NESeattle, WA 98105(206) 525-4340www.uwineseattle.com
 tasted even more so with the wine – thoughI ound the ood did not add anything to thewine. I always struggle with the chicken-eggquestion: Is it better or the wine to make theood taste better or or the ood to make thewine taste better?
Sg’s Wht s Chrd-Cm-brd (isr $14.99)Srvd wth bb rd  sd tppdwth grd prs d tstd hzts d ctrs vgrtt
This is a white more up my alley: It’s verydry, bold and extra tanniney with citrus notesat the end. All in all a good summer wine, asin served chilled on a hot evening. The grilledpear salad was the perect complement.
Pcfc Pt nr (org $28.99)Srvd wth g pst tppd wthsw rstd dc, rsh thm, stéds d mshrms
I had high hopes or this wine as theGoose Bay Pinot Noir is excellent, and ear-lier this year I had an amazing Caliornian(Eagles Landing Pinot Noir available exclu-sively at the Herzog Winery in Oxnard),which made me optimistic about northernhemisphere Pinot Noirs. The wine has berrynotes and almost a chocolatey, smoky taste.It’s unlike any Pinot Noir I’ve ever had. Iwould almost call it a Pinot Noir Leger or per-haps a
Pinot 2.0
. This wine is producedin a limited amount and due to a disappoint-ing harvest, there will not be a 2011 PacifcaPinot Noir out next year (Pinot Noir grapesare notoriously maddening to work with).The good news is this wine is not mevushal,meaning it has not been ash pasteurized,and thus will stand the test o time i storedproperly. While the 2010 Pacifca Pinot Noirwas not my avorite wine o the evening, I’mexcited to taste the 2012.
Pcfc Mrtg (Wshgt $39.99)Srvd wth hrb crstd-prm rb b wth h-crmzd Brmd ,d, rstd ptt d bb vgtbs
This was the showstopper. I am a Bor-deaux girl and this wine has orever changedmy belie that there is no such thing as agood usion. The wine is very dry, smoothand delicious, like suede. When I declared itwas
“like drinking brisket!”
I gotpuzzled looks rom my dining companions, though ortunately our guide or the eve-ning, Michael Friend (the Pacifc Northwestregional manager o the Royal Wine Corpo-ration), knew exactly what I meant. Muchlike my avorite cut o bee, this wine is meaty,rich, complex but extremely accessible.The pairing with the prime rib was the cor-rect choice to accompany this wine, thoughI could barely ocus on the ood in ront ome as it was completely overstated by theMeritage (perhaps it was an early Hanuk-kah miracle, but my plate was almost cleanwhen the server came to collect it). I theprice tag seems a little steep, rest assuredit is
worth every penny
. I you’vehad a terrible day, pick up a bottle and hal apound o Godiva, call over a riend and settleinto a “Gossip Girl” rerun marathon. I youhave something to celebrate, this is the wine to “toast to lie” over. The Pacifca Meritagehas ofcially become the Wiens house wineo choice. Now I just have to wait until it isavailable later this winter.
Drppr Crt D’r Brt (rc $39.99)Srvd wth cssc trms wth cd crm rdct
The Meritage is a tough act to ollow. By this point in the evening the loose skirt I stra- tegically chose is not eeling so loose. When the decadent tiramisu was placed beore meI could only muster a ew bites, only or thesake o investigating i it had any eect on the brut, which needed no accompaniment.This Champagne has been on the market orsome time, but it is now only recently avail-able kosher (and may I say it’s about time!).The Drappier is everything I look or in asparkling white: Very dry, very smooth withjust a hint o pear. This delicious Cham-pagne (as in a real Champagne) is a bargainor under $40 and should never fnd itsel ina Mimosa.
red, white and brut
PHoToS By eMily k. alHaDeff

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