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Interior Nl Jan-feb 2012 Final Web

Interior Nl Jan-feb 2012 Final Web

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ISSUE # 230JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2012
 
“A chocolate-dpped, cream-lledopportut to lear rom the ver est.”
Midwest Living 
422-Detroit-Street,-Ann-Arbor-MI-48104Deli:-734.663.3354-(DELI)--Next-Door:-734.663.5282-(JAVA)
Chec out the ull schedule & regster or classes at
.aethzg.com
Stop-by-the-Creamery-Cheese-Shop734.929.0500-•-3723-Plaza-Dr.-- www.zingermanscreamery.com
2nd-Sunday-Creamery--Cheese-Tasting
Sunday, Jan. 8 • 4-5:30pm • $20/person
Come and learn about the cheeses we pro-duce, milk seasonality and the variables of cheese making from our cheese maker Aubrey Thomason.
Cheddars-and--Cheshires-Tasting
Sunday, Jan. 29 • 4-6pm • $30/person
To celebrate all the big and beautiful new wheels of Great Lakes Cheshire that are emerg-ing from our aging room, this tasting featurestwo cheeses that share a long intertwined his-tory. Cheddar, the first cheese made in thenew world, comes in a variety of differentstyles, from a multitude of places—reachingfrom Vermont to Wisconsin. Waxed in blocks, wrapped in cloth wheels, aged in plastic, as wellas in caves, some with blue, some without. Lessfamiliar here in the U.S. is Cheshire, once themost popular of British cheeses. Join our chee-semakers Aubrey Thomason and John Loomisas they guide you through these cheeses anddiscuss where our own Great Lakes Cheshirefits into the Cheddar and Cheshire Continuum.
Chocolate-Gelato-Tasting
Sunday, Fe. 12 • 4-6pm • $30/person
February is Chocolate Gelato Month! Join ourexpert gelatiere, Josh Miner and indulge inthis year’s selection. You’ll taste no-fewer-thanseven different chocolate gelati, including DarkChocolate, Strawberry Balsamic, Rocky Rideand Chocolate Heat.
Mozzarella-Making-Class
1st & 3rd Saturday each month • 12-2:30pm • $60
Come learn with the masters of mozz how tostretch your own from-scratch, fresh mozzarel-la. We will guide you through the steps to set upthe curd from milk and teach you the technique we employ to stretch the curds into marvelousmozzarella of your very own!
Registration-required.--Save-$5-when-you-prepay!--Call-(734)-9290500-to-reserve-your-spot!
Del Tastgs ad Evets
 All of our tastings are hosted at Zingerman’s Events on Fourthat 415 N. Fifth Street in Kerrytown Market and Shops
3723 Plaza Drie
 
734.929.6060
3723-Plaza-Drive-•-734.761.7255
Hads-O
 
Roadose Special Dinners are mlti-corse family-style affairs wit a little istory and a LOT of foodfeatrin writers, cefs, ators and more from or own commnity and all arond te contry.
For reserations to all eents stop y 2501 Jackson Ae. or call 734.663.3663 (FOOD) or online at www.zinermansroadose.com
7th-Annual-- African-American-Dinner:-In-Search-of-My-Father’s-Kitchen,-- with-special-guest-Audrey-Petty 
 Tuesday, Jan. 31 • 7pm • $45/person
The Roadhouse welcomes author Audrey Petty, born and raised inChicago and currently a Professor at the University of Illinois atUrbana-Champaign. Audrey will share her father’s stories about hisNorthern migrations, his coming of age as a cook-busboy-migrant worker and will read her own poetry. Audrey and Chef Alex willhelp tell the stories through a traditional and full-flavored mealprepared by Chef Alex.
Mardi-Gras-Celebration-
 Tuesday, Fe. 21 • 7pm • $45/person
In a mid-winter break from the cold, the Roadhouseexplores the foods of New Orleans at this Mardi Gras festival. Chef  Alex, recently back from a trip to NOLA, explored the city, its cui-sine, traditions and culture. This year’s menu will be a combinationof Roadhouse NOLA favorites and new and exciting dishes Chef  Alex learned while he was down there.
 American Meat 
-Dinner
Saturday, Mar. 10 • 5pm • $55/person
The Roadhouse is teaming up with Real Time Farms for an exclusiveSaturday night dinner to celebrate the viewing of 
 American Meat 
,a documentary from Graham Meriwether that takes a macroscopiclook at the U.S. meat industry. The first part of the evening will bedinner at the Roadhouse where Chef Alex has created a menu thathighlights Cornman Farms’ meats and he will share his passion forreally good local American meat. After the dinner, there will be ashowing of 
 American Meat 
at the Michigan Theater at 7:30 pm.
Seats or the der ca e ooed through the Roadhouse.Tcets to the move are avalale through the Mchga Theater.Lear more aout Amerca Meat at .amercameatlm.com
7  
to the Roadhouse for Valentine’s Day 
Rockin’-Rye-Breads-
 Thursday, Jan. 19 • 5:30-9:30pm • $100/person
Make the same bread you’ll find on Zingerman’sDelicatessen’s famous Reuben sandwiches! Most Americans associate the flavor of caraway seeds withrye bread, but the rye berry itself packs a real flavorpunch! In this class you’ll make our traditional JewishRye bread.
Saveur 
magazine called it “America’s bestrye.” We’ll also bake a bread using 100% rye flour.
Bavarian-Baguettes:--a.k.a.-German-Pretzels
 
Friday, Jan. 27 • 1-4pm • $75/person
 As seen in the
New York Times
! Craft traditionalGerman style soft pretzels made with lard and lye! We’ll answer that burning question: ”Is this thesame lye that’s used to make soap?”
Coffeecake-Craft-
Wednesday, Fe. 1 • 5:30-9:30pm • $125/person
In this class we’ll craft a few different coffeecakesthat you’ll want to bake for years to come- includ-ing our popular hot cocoa coffeecake, Shelby’sgrandmother’s yeast-raised coffeecake and acrumb top coffeecake for good measure.
“Second-Saturday”-Tour!-
 
January 14 & Feruary 11 • 11am-noon • FREE!
 Join us monthly for an open-to-the-public, no-reservation-required event. Sit down with CoffeeCompany managing partners Allen and/or Steve totour their facility and learn about coffee—whereit’s grown, how it’s sourced and how it’s roasted.Learn how to discern the subtle distinctions amongthe world’s finest coffees as you sample some newofferings and some old favorites brewed using a variety of techniques.
Coffee-and-Food-Pairings
Sunday, Jan. 15 • 1-3pm • $30/person
 
Sunday, Fe. 19 • 1-3pm • $30/person
 You may be familiar with wine and cheese pairings,but why not a coffee and food pairing? Here at theCoffee Co., we’ll be taking some of our favorite cof-fees and tasting them with select foods to find thebest combination. Great for the coffee and foodconnoisseur who wants to try something different.Class is limited to 8 people, so sign up fast!
Brewing-Methods-Class
Sunday, Jan. 22 • 1-3pm • $20/person
Learn the keys to successful coee brewing using a wide variety of brewing methods from lter drip tosyphon pot. We will take a single coee and brew it6 to 8 dierent ways, each producing a unique taste. We’ll learn the proper proportions and techniquefor each and discuss the merits and dierences of each style.
Comparative-Cupping-Class
Sunday, Feruary 5 • 1-3pm • $20/person
Sample coffees from Africa, Central and South America, and the Asian Pacific. We will taste andevaluate these coffees using the techniques andtools used by professional tasters. This is an eye-opening tour of the world of coffee.
Please call or reservatos: 734.929.6060
TAkE 30% O AnybOTTLE O winE!
415 N. Fift Street, Ann Aror, MI (in Kerrytown Market and Sops)
at
* Some Wednesdays there may be no pop in due to private events being held
bag Classes
 A-Pop-Up-Restaurant-&-Bar-
Great food and drinks, mirth and merri-ment popping up at Zingerman’s Eventson Fourth on Wednesday* eveningsfrom 5:00-9:30pm.Sign up for our enews at www.zingermansdeli.com to find out when the next pop in will be held
From-the-Court-Scene-to-the-Cocoa-Bean
4Th ANNuAL ASKINOSIEChOCOLATE TASTINg
 Thursday, January 26 • 6:30-8:30pm •$40/person
Shawn Askinosie is our favorite crimi-nal defense lawyer turned chocolatemaker and we welcome him back tothe Deli with open arms for what fore-casts to be the best Askinosie Tasting todate! Shawn is a leader in the industry for his chocolate, his packaging, and hisbusiness model which includes directly sourcing cocoa beans and gainsharing with the farmers. Shawn will share hisstory as we taste sweet, savory, anddrinkable treats made from his choco-late, cocoa, and nibs,and guide us in a tast-ing of his bean-to-barchocolates.
Sign-up-early—this-tasting-always-sells-out!-
Beyond-Fondue!--
CELEbRATE ThE MELT
 Tuesday, Jan. 31 • 6:30-8pm • $35/person
Fondue, Raclette and Tartiflette—come‘celebrate the melt’ with our cheeseenthusiasts. From techniques to foodpairing suggestions, we’ll have it allcovered.
Green,-Black,--Ruby-&-Golden
DISCOvER A PALETTE OF TEA
 Thursday, Fe. 16 • 6:30-8:30pm •$35/person
 We couldn’t think of a better way toround out a February evening than with our friends from Rishi Tea. Formore than ten years, they’ve beensourcing teas directly from a variety of origins throughout Asia, and theirsteadfast commitment to quality hasresulted in a fantastic selection. We’lllearn about their work in sourcing andtaste some of their exceptional teas.
 
ISSUE # 230
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JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2012
 A few months ago I was talking to Valerie Ne-Rasmussen, who works in at Zingerman’s Mail Order. She happened to men-tion that she wanted to work on doing more writing. I recom-mended that she check out Brenda Ueland’s 1938 book,
If YouReally Want to Write
. It is, without doubt, my favorite book onthe subject. Very literally, it changed the way I write, and prob-ably with that, the whole way I approach my life. The book isso insightful, funny, and fantastically helpful that I’d love toget it into more people’s hands. Val got right on it—she orderedthe book and read it soon after. After nishing it, she wrote totell me how much liked it; in particular she referenced one of her favorite lines: “[Van Gogh] loved something—the sky, say.He loved human beings. He wanted to show human beings howbeautiful the sky was. So he painted it for them. And that was allthere was to it.” And so it is with what follows. In my case, whatI love is sardines, and I also love the people I work with, buy from and sell to. Which is why I want to write about sardines—the better I tell their story, the more likely it is that others willstart loving them too.If I were picking popular topics to talk about, I don’t thinksardines would show up at the top of many people’s lists. Butsometimes you have to leave the mainstream and go where your heart, your head and your tongue take you. Sardinesare one of my all-time favorite foods. Although they’re hardly a regular topic on talk shows or presidential debates, I thinksardines are pretty fabulous. If I were into making world-classclaims, I might declare them “the super food for the 21st cen-tury.” Sardines are pretty much everything I want in a food—fullof avor, easy to use and easily accessible, with a whole lot of obscure folklore and history to go with them. On top of which,they’re one of the healthiest foods I know of. Although every-body obviously knows something about these delicious littlesh, I’m pretty condent that (besides a few other hardcorefanatics) I’ve got at least 26 new bits of sardine info in herefor you. I’ll let you count and keep track; if I’m short I owe yousome—just let me know and I’ll be glad to make good.The rst fact is that I like to eat them. As I’ve already said, sar-dines—tinned and fresh—are among my all-time favorite foods.I know that not all that many Americans would make a similarstatement, but . . . their loss. I’m not without empathy—I canunderstand why those who shy away from strong avors wouldeschew sardines. But really, most people I know are working tond bigger and bolder avors—peppery new season olive oil,3-year-old Iberico hams, 2-year-old cloth-wrapped farmhousecheddars, Scotch Bonnet peppers, aged bourbons and really dark chocolate. Sardines, sorry for the pun, should denitely be swimming with that school. Full avored, rich and meaty,they can stand up to hot sauce, mustard, olives, tomatoes, garlicand most anything else you want to throw at them.
High-ClasSConvenience FoOd
 Aside from tasting so great, canned sardines are actually an in-credible convenience food. Keep a tin on hand, and—using any of the many recipe ideas I list here—you can have a great mealin a matter of minutes. Since they last for years, there’s really no reason ever to be out of them—as soon as my inventory fallsbelow, say, four, I buy more. On pasta, on a sandwich, laid ontoa salad, made into a spread—good sardines are there, standingat the ready. I’ve read that TV food guru Alton Brown brings atin with him everywhere. (He must always check a bag—I don’tthink they’ll let the liquid in the tin through security.) In fact,if you want to take this idea further, you might start your ownsardine-aging cellar—for a small investment you can almostcertainly have the best one on your block. While you may welldismiss this advice as silly, I’ll posit that when you get to 2015, you’ll be glad you got it going. The risks are low, returns arehigh, you’ll pay no tax as they increase in value, and you’ll endup with a stack of really delicious tinned sh to feast on. Readon for more on sardine maturing.To demonstrate by claim of the sardine as convenience food,the other night I made a simple dish of pasta with sardines. It’smy downscale, last-minute version of the classic Sicilian
pastacon le sarde
. The traditional dish is super-delicious but calls forfresh sardines and wild fennel fronds, neither of which I had onhand. Seeing as I’d had a long day at work, I opted for this really delicious—if not quite as divine as the original—dish for dinner.To make some, start by sautéing a bit of chopped fresh fennel inolive oil. If you like, add a bit of garlic as well. (I really recom-mend the sun-dried garlic we get from the Mahjoub family inTunisia.) Add a handful of raisins and a bit of red pepper akes(mine is Marash red pepper from Turkey). While that’s going,cook up some spaghetti (Martelli is my choice) till it just reachesal dente texture. When the pasta is nearly ready, open a tin of really good sardines and add them to the fennel. Add all the liq-uid in the tin—there’s a lot of avor in the oil—and a tablespoon-ful of pine nuts. Stir gently. As the sardines warm, take the pastaout of the pot with tongs and add it to the sauce. Stir for anotherminute or two to make sure it’s all hot and the pasta absorbs theavor. Serve it in warm bowls. Over the top grate some breadcrumbs (which can be made in the moment by toasting somegood Bakehouse bread and running it through a hand grater).Pour on a ribbon of good olive oil and lots of freshly groundblack pepper. It’s a pretty ne fteen-minute meal.
Sardines smashStereotypes
 Aside from the fact that they taste so good, sardines seem todefy nearly every social stereotype. They appeal to almost ev-eryone, from salt-of-the-earth workers to highly educated culi-nary elites. Oddly, they seem to be both upscale and downscaleat the same time, inhabiting both ends of the culinary spectrum.Obviously, I’m generalizing, but they’re popular among Ortho-dox Jews, New Age nutritionists, North Africans, Portuguesepeople, progressive cardiologists, French farmers and Englishsocialites. Given their historical, ecological, nutritional andavor credibility, they’re denitely big with the Slow Food set.Sardines were a regular part of the diet of coastal Native Amer-icans long before Europeans arrived on the continent; tribesalong both coasts caught and ate the little sh, both fresh anddried for later consumption. Poor Eastern European Jews ateabundant quantities of them; there are many stories of poor Jewish families honoring the Sabbath tradition of eating sh,sitting down to a Friday meal of nothing but tinned sardinesand hard-boiled eggs. Here in Michigan, sardines were a staplein the lunch buckets of ironworkers who built the MackinawBridge in the 1950s. Sardines have been shipped out to troopsaround the world for two centuries; environmentalists andlefty foodies love ‘em too. Some folks eat them right out of thecan, while acionados age them in private cellars and crackopen vintage tins to celebrate special occasions.
MediterRanean Marvels
In one of my favorite food books,
Honey from a Weed
,Patience Gray sets the sardine scene in the 1960s: “Fresh sar-dines and gleaming anchovies provided the fundament of Mediterranean sh markets. . . . When they were abundant,they were ‘too cheap’ to be found in [upscale] restaurants; onehad to penetrate into a [down-to-earth] ‘vini’ or an ‘osteria’ for working men to nd them. You enter a crowded bar, thread your way through the vociferous male company and seek refuge in afarther room where the cloth covered tables promise restora-tion. Here sardines or anchovies are served, which have beencleaned, dried, shaken in our and rapidly deep-fried and sprin-kled in salt; served with hunks of bread in a basket, a bottle of  wine vinegar being plonked on the table, and a quarto of vino.” While little sh here in the US provoke a bit of culinary panic, inthe Mediterranean sardines and anchovies are workers’ food. While tuna, anchovies and mackerel are all important in Por-tuguese eating, my 1938 copy of 
The Golden Book of PortugueseTinned Fish
says, “Among the great variety of Portuguesetinned sh, the sardine occupies the most important place.”The rst sardine factory was founded in the town of Setubalin 1880 built by a Frenchman to overcome the shortage of shon the Breton coast. By 1896 there were 76 factories and by the end of WWII over 300. In 1930 Portugal surpassed Franceto become the era’s largest producer; they still account forabout a third of the sh brought to port each year. Sardinespractically have their own holiday; on St. Anthony’s Day (June13th) freshly grilled sardines are the street food of choice forcelebrants. The Portuguese sardine season runsfrom May through October, which contributes I’msure to their popularity as beach food; grilled sardines,accompanied by potatoes, bread and a salad, are probably THE summer meal in Portugal.It’s much the same on the southern side of the Mediterranean.Majid Mahjoub, from whom we get such marvelous harissa andother Tunisian foods, told me that sardines are “a giant foodin the kitchen of the Tunisian coastline.” Tunisians eat themboth fresh and tinned, preferring the smaller, skinnier sar-dines. “They are,” Majid explained, “the sh of the poor.” Justcaught sardines are frequently grilled, then served with lemonand fresh, green olive oil. Sardines, like so many other foods inTunisia, are frequently eaten with harissa. For a fabulous horsd’oeuvres, pour a bit of good green olive oil on a plate. Spoonon some of the Mahjoub’s amazing harissa sauce. Open a can of nice sardines, and lay them across the top of the harissa. Grindon a bit of black pepper, sprinkle a touch of sea salt and maybea squeeze of lemon over top, and eat with some warm Paesanobread. Put a few pickled peppers, fresh radishes or sliced freshturnips on the side and you’re really rolling. For a main meal,take a bit of tomato sauce, season with harissa, capers, lemonand some sardines, and serve over freshly cooked couscous.(I can’t say enough about the handmade, sundried couscous we get from the Mahjoubs. Same goes for their bottled tomatosauces, made from the organic tomatoes and extra-virgin oliveoil that come from their farm 45 minutes west of Tunis.) Adda few slices of room temperature, barrel-aged feta, and you’lltake it up another notch still.Sardines are of course big in Greece, too. A Greek salad witha tin of sardines is a good way to go. This time of year toma-toes aren’t very good, so I’d skip those. But a green salad withroasted peppers, some cucumber, olives and other assorted vegetables is excellent. Greek cookbook author Aglaia Kremezi(whose work I highly recommend) has a recipe for sardelo-salata—the sardine version of the classic taramosalata spread(made from carp roe). See below for details on how to prepareit. It makes an excellent hors d’oeuvres or sandwich.
DiFferENT Countries,difFERent Fish, OnE Name
 Although they all bear the same name on package labels, thereare dozens of dierent small sh sold as sardines. On the lessdesirable end of the spectrum, “sardines” are imported intothe US from nearly three-dozen dierent countries. With theseone really has no idea what sort of sh have been stuck in-side the tins. Generally cheaper sh are mushier in texture andprone to o avors.On the upside, all the sh we have on hand are top notch! Med-iterranean sardine producers in Portugal, Spain and France work with what are known as pilchards. These are fat, avor-ful sh, usually tting only three, four or at most ve to a can.The Codex Alimentarius, the international body that overseeslabeling laws, requires that the label for any sh other thanpilchards that are canned as sardines must state the type of sh inside the tin. On the American East Coast what we used tocall “sardines” (before the Maine sardine plants closed) wereactually North Atlantic herring. Pacic sardines are
sardinopssagax
, and are also in the herring family. Norwegian sardinesare Brislings (also known as silds or sprats), a small sh na-tive to the North Sea. The good news is that all of these can beexcellent!
CanNed at the Deli,or Fresh at the Roadhouse
One of the oddities of the sardine world is that so many peo-ple have never had a fresh sardine, only those from tins. Atthis point, they’re almost like two dierent foods. Personally,I think both are excellent. Although if you eat some of eachit will be clear that they started out as pretty much the samething, there’s as much dierence between tinned and fresh sar-dines as there is between tinned and fresh tuna. If I see fresh
 
-3
ISSUE # 230JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2012
sardines on a menu I’ll almost always order some. Ilike ‘em best when they’re at their simplest—grilled overa wood re, sometimes stued with fresh herbs, topped o  with a drizzle of olive oil, a little sea salt and a squeeze of lemon. We get them now and again from the West Coast andserve them at the Roadhouse. Cooking them on the grill leavesa wisp of wood smoke in the avor. I love ‘em.The whole question of canning is, of course, relatively recentby historical standards. Up until about two hundred years agothere were no tinned sardines. Certainly for centuries, peoplecaught, ate and salted sardines as others did anchovies. Al-though they’re now almost unknown, you’ll still see saltedsardines on occasion in Spain, Sicily and Greece. Surprisingly they’re also found in Cornwall, where salted sardines are afour-century-old tradition.The canning of sardines dates to the early 19th century. Nico-las Appert, a Frenchman from the Champagne region, start-ed his career as a professional cook. At age 31 he moved toParis, where he set up a confectionary shop and started toexperiment with conserving sweets in sugar. According toSue Shephard, in her book
Pickled, Potted and Canned
, Ap-pert was “determined to nd a way to keep food successfully  without spoiling either its avor or texture.” Long story short,he eventually sent some samples of bottled beef broth with vegetables to the French Navy, which returned good marks:“The broth in bottles was good . . . ,” the Ministry wrote. “Thebeans and green peas . . . have all the freshness and avor of freshly picked vegetables.” Unusual in his era, Appert was abig advocate of the sanitation and freshness of raw material.He was also generous and happy to share his technique withothers. The local paper reported that Appert had “found a way to x the seasons; at his establishment, spring, summer andautumn live in bottles.”In the North of France, along the Breton coast, shermanhad fried sardines, then put them into clay jars called
oules
 to preserve them. Joseph Colin, a friend of Appert who livedin the town of Nantes, applied Appert’s new approaches tothe existing Breton conservation methods, creating what wenow know as the canned sardine. In part his push was to openmarkets for sardines—places too far from Brittany for then-standard shipping and storage methods. At the time Francealso had a big push to gure out ways to feed the ever-grow-ing—and further aeld—military. Thanks to Appert and Colin,tinned sardines quickly became popular with French foot sol-diers. By 1836 Colin was producing about 30,000 cans a year,and his success spawned about 30 other small factories. By 1880 the region was turning out over 50,000,000 tins. Forcontext, remember that everything was still done by hand—each tin made by hand before it was packed. And after thesardines were fried in oil, they were placed one by one intothe tins, which were then hand-soldered to seal the cookedsh safely inside. The Breton run ended when sardines disap-peared from the coastal waters in much the same way as they did a century later in Monterey. The sh did return but notuntil much later. They’re back now, to be enjoyed regularly.
Sardines from Seato Shining Sea
For some decades a share of those millions of French sar-dines were shipped to North America. But the 1870 Franco-Prussian War interrupted imports and created opportunity for American entrepreneurs. Commercial canning on theEast Coast began in 1875 in Eastport, when a New York-basedbusinessman set up the Eagle Preserved Fish Company. (Wenow know Eastport as the home of Raye’s marvelous, stone-ground yellow mustard.) Volumes increased throughout theend of the 19th century, continuing to climb until the middleof the 20th. The sh being canned was actually Atlantic her-ring—meatier and less tender and probably less avorfulthan the pilchards coming from Europe—but still good andever more popular. In those early years of Maine canningthe market remained Eurocentric; many early Americancans were festooned with French writing, some even withsmall plaques that said (misleadingly), “Made in Nantes.”In his 1904 novel,
 A Case of Sardines; A Story of the MaineCoast 
, Charles Poole Cleaves describes Maine shing com-munities in great detail. The sh business dominated theregion in the same way that cheese took hold in Wisconsinor shing in Boston. At its height nearly every town alongMaine’s long craggy coast had a small sardine factory—over400 when the industry was at its peak. If you nd old sar-dine labels, hold onto them—like vintage fruit crate labels,old sardinery is now classed as commercial art. Sardinesbrought a lot of commercial growth to the coast. Sales wereso strong that American Can Company built a big factory tobe closer to the action. (There were no pop top tins then—each can came with a metal key attached to peel back thetop.) As is so often the case, where there’s a boom, thereare also busts. Some years the catch was great, others notso much. Sardines dominated the economy and most every-thing else. “We’re doin’ ne this year. Plenty of good sh,an’ tin’s cheap,” says the factory owner in Cleaves’s novel.“It’s not sh you’re mon but men’s lives,” says one of hischaracters. “Human life is packed here, rugged as the coast,and throbbing like the sea. And what do we call it? Only acase of sardines!”Most of the packers were women—their hands were be-lieved to be better suited to the small tins, quick motionsand hand-eye coordination needed. In the local vernacu-lar they were known as “herring chokers.” Cleaves, though,describes people from all backgrounds working in the fac-tories. “Is there anywhere you can see the inner side of hu-man nature as you can in a sardine factory? . . . [Here] youcan see people for just what they are.” In a description thatcould have come from an exposé, Cleaves explains, “Whenthe owners cheat, the crew are sure to follow. Can’t expect‘em to be any better than their masters.” And then he dem-onstrates the depth of the problem. After the owners cheat-ed, so did the sh cutters, the akers, the dryers, the fry-ers, the spreaders, the bath-tenders (who cooked the sh), We have four superb sardine oerings on hand nowand more on the way. All of these are excellent; I’veeaten large quantities while coming up with the recipeideas in this piece. Each has its own unique character,and I’m happy having any of them on my dinner table.
Matz—Spash Sardes  Olve Ol
These beautiful silver-skinned sardines come from theregion of Galicia in northwest Spain. More specical-ly they come from the coastal town of Vilaboa, in theRío Vigo, a deep estuary near the Portuguese borderthat’s known for its calm waters, high level of naturaldiversity and great seafood. The sh are all traditionalpilchards, the old European sardine variety that makefor the fattest and most tender sardines. The sh aretaken in using seines—large shing nets that hang o the boat and allow shermen to take in a school of sardines without damaging other sea dwellers. The share cleaned and prepped—primarily by hand—beforebeing canned. The rm has a long list of certicationsto show o including HAACP, ISO and others. They’realso environmentally conscious—the sh are caughtsustainably, and even the packaging is from recycledmaterials. Matiz sardines have the mellowest, mildest,cleanest avor of our oerings—if you’re making yourrst foray into sardines, eating Matiz might be the bestplace to start.
Da Morgada—Portuguese Sardes Extra Vrg Olve Ol
These are caught further south, o the coast of Portugal, taken in at the port of Matosinhos, nearthe city of Port (which most of you will know forits famous wine). Again, the shermen use seine netsand (as with all our oerings) the tinned product ismade only with fresh sh—the season of the Portuguesecoast runs from April through November. Most of theshermen are second-generation with the rm, so thequality of the sh and the shing is high. The sardinesare packed in extra virgin olive oil, their avor a touchbigger than that of the Matiz, while equally tender andimpressively delicious.
Godec—Old-Stle Sardesrom brtta
These traditionally prepared sardines are packed by the Gonidec family in the old Breton port town of Con-carneau. If you look at a map of the French coast andnd its westernmost point sticking out into the Atlan-tic, Concarneau is a bit south and a touch back to theeast. Gonidec, currently run by the third generation,remains true to the old methods. The sh are (again)all fresh, never frozen. As per the old Breton way, thenewly landed sardines go into a bath of ice and salt wa-ter. Called “pickling,” this process rms the esh. Thesh are then laid out on racks and dried slowly in kilns.The drying is essential for the next step—frying in oil.The sh are then allowed to drain and nally packed inextra virgin olive oil before being sealed into tins. Tak-ing into account the equipment’s modernization, thisGonidec process is essentially the same as that used by Monsieurs Appert and Colin early in the 19th century, when the rst sardine canning was coming together.
Godec 2009—Vtage Sardes rom brtta
Each year the Gonidec family selects the best and mostbeautiful of the season’s sardines and sets them aside formaturing. They’re now about two and a half years in thetin. The maturing makes the avor more intense, the ex-tra virgin olive oil penetrating more eectively into theesh of the sh. Great eating for the connoisseur!
Great Sardes oOur Shelves
Roaster’s Pick!
JanuAry 
Honduran Microlot
 We’ve been buying Honduran coee from Unión Micro-Finanza (UMF) for over a year now. UMF provides micro-loans and in-country assistance to farmers. With the helpof UMF, the farmers have been producing better and bet-ter coees to the point where this year the best lots wereseparated out. These were oered as microlots instead of being blended together at the co-op. A premium was paidto the farmer for these coees. We purchased all of the lotfrom a single farmer, Filadelpho Juarezo based solely onits avor. It has tropical fruit up front with notes of hon-eysuckle and the pleasant bittersweetness of grapefruit.
FEbruaRy 
Rwanda A+ GatareStation Bourbon
This lovely East African coee was immediately a standout on the cupping table. Our rst cupping notes were“white grapefruit! juicy, creamy, orange zest.” On cool-ing, the coee had a complex fruit nish with notes of peach. The big, bright fruit avors are perfectly balancedby the equally rich and creamy body. It’s a great exampleof the unique character of East African coees. This cof-fee is grown at 1,845 meters in the Nyamasheke District of  western Rwanda.
Aailale y te cp or y te pond atZinerman’s Coffee Co., Delicatessen, and Roadose
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