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Mechanism differences
vertical
We have to be carefull about 3 main parameters at laundry machines. These 3 parameters are; 1-rotation speed of the machine 2-falling height (depends on loading capacity, water amount, wing structure and rotation speed) 3-Machine surface area and structure (depends on the type of machine (vertical or horizontal) and amounts and size of the holes at the surface of machine) For the best results during the rotation of the machine from left to right, wings of the machine has to throw the garments from hour 11 point to hour 5 point. This adjustment can be done by arranging the loading amountwater level-and rotation speed. This equilibrium is the best level for optimum effect and safe wash. If the falling point passes over 12 then abrasion will be lost, if the falling point occurs before or around 9 again abrasion will be lost and in both cases related to the structure of the fabric risk of crease increases too much.
Mechanism differences
ROTATION SPEED LIQOUR RATIO RELATION LOW ROTATION SPEED RISKY WASHING ONLY POSSIBILITY BY REDUSING THE LOADING CAPACITY ONLY POSSIBILITY BY REDUSING THE LOADING CAPACITY ONLY POSSIBILITY BY REDUSING THE LOADING CAPACITY OPTIMUM WASHING POINT 2 LOW LIQOUR RATIO MEDIUM LIQOUR RATIO HIGH LIQOUR RATIO
MEDIUM ROTATION ONLY POSSIBILITY BY REDUSING THE SPEED LOADING CAPACITY HIGH ROTATION SPEED OPTIMUM WASHING 1
WASHING MACHINERY
Vertical Drum -sophisticated -high degree of automation / control -various sizes up to 750 kg capacity -more common in Europe/ North Africa/ Americas
BARREL -simple -lower degree of sophistication -more aggressive action -more common in Asia
Mechanism differences
vertical
barrel
Mechanism differences
vertical
barrel
For machines of equal capacity, the barrel machine has greater metal surface friction area.
RBD Garment Team 10/06
Mechanism differences
Mechanism differences
vertical
barrel
Mechanism differences
vertical
barrel
for vertical drum machine less friction is imparted, resulting in less abrasion.
Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles
RBD Garment Team 10/06
This step is the basic, but most important part of washing. Related to the final target we have to take the correct prevention in this part. This process has 3 main targets; removing the impurities coming from the fabric, de-sizing at weaving fabrics and decreasing the crease risk on the garment *removing the impurities: -either from the cotton or from the manufacturing period garment can contain some impureties. These impurities can be based on oil, alkaline or acidic chemicals and all of them can cause several problems in the next steps of washing. In this step a professional laundry man has to decide about the risk and he has to use the suitable auxiliaries to remove these impurities. *de-sizing: -all of the weaved fabrics contains size on them. During the weaving processes there can be two main problems; one is breaking of the yarn because of high friction and second is dust formation. Size is the solution of these problems, because sizes are making a floppy film on surface and improves the tensile strength and directly causes better efficiency. However, this size becomes a problem so it must be remove in washing. There are several types of size are available in the market. But they can divided in two groups-water soluble sizes (CMC or PVA based sizes) and dissolvable sizes in water (starch based sizes)Starch based sizes still are used widely and have the biggest market share because of their cheap prices and easy purchase conditions.There are 4 methods to remove the size; 1-washing with high alcalines 2-washing with high acids 3-washing with oxidative chemicals 4-enzymatic desizng with alfa-amylases First three methods are difficult , risky and expensive method at laundry business because of this nearly all of the market prefers enzymatic de-sizing.
RBD Garment Team 10/06
BACK-STAINING
Re-deposition of loose indigo, or indigo dyed short fibres, removed during desizing, stone-washing or enzyme washing. Re-deposited Indigo, reduces the contrast between warp and undyed weft Re-deposited indigo stains pockets and labels Re-deposited indigo is more prone to Ozone and yellowing AND SOLUTION LAVA SPERSE GROUPS Back-staining is UNDESIREABLE in denim washing
BACK-STAINING
THERE ARE 3 BASIC GROUPS OF DISPERSING AGENTS FIRST GROUP IS WASHING AND SCOURING BASED PRODUCTS LIKE
Prevents crease formation during the washing procsess. Increases the loading capacity of the washing machine Reduses the stone spots risk during the stone wash procsess
Enzymes
Enzymes are living organisms which will attack a specific molecular group
Head Body
Anchor
conventional chemical catalysts are as follows: Increase the rate of the chemical reactions, Provide mild conditions for reactions such as neutral pH and room temperature. The reaction can be easly controlled. Enzymes are biologically degredable , so they do not cause any environment problems. They can be used instead of most of the harmful chemicals.
Laccase Catalase
AMYLASES
IF YOU THINK ALFA AMYLASES AS KEY THEIR LOCK IS STARCH. THEY CHANGE THE FORM OF STARCH TO A WATER SOLUABLE STRUCTURE THE MAIN DIFFERENCE AT ALFA AMYLASES IS TEMPARATURE STABILITY. SO WE CAN CLASSIFY ALFA AMYLASES AS TERMO-STABIL AND NON-TERMO STABIL GROUPS
AMYLASES
Lava Zyme DEZ
effective 40 80 C liquid - pumpable
Normal desizing conducted at 70 C Higher temperature, more back staining of indigo onto pockets and white weft yarns, which is undesirable Good alkaline stability can use products at lower temperature 55 C
reduces back staining 55 C lower efficiency of enzyme slightly higher dosage needed
RBD Garment Team 10/06
CELLULASE ENZYMES
Here we use cellulase enzymes which attack and weaken cellulose (cotton) Enzymes weaken the surface fibres, which are then mechanically torn off during processing taking with them indigo. The need mechanical action to work, often to improve the rate of abrasion they are used with stones.
attack point
Consider a textile yarn. It is not just a smooth surface, but thousands of parallel fibres twisted together. The surface is not smooth, it had fibre ends poking out.
Indigo ring dyes. It does not penetrate far into the individual fibres in a yarn. It remains stuck on or very near the surface.
Cellulase Enzymes
We can separate Cellulase enzymes into two groups; Neutral Cellulases: These are the enzymes which are active between pH: 6-8 lower abrasion than acid cellulases low backstaining pH 6 - 8.0 Acid Cellulases: high abrasion higher back-staining than neutral cellulases pH 4.5 - 5.5 optimized pH and temparature = maximum activity of the enzyme
Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles
RBD Garment Team 10/06
NEUTRAL CELLULASE
For Stone washing Neutral cellulases are the most commonly used mild action attack on cotton (cellulose) fibre
attacks indigo ring dyed cotton fibres on surface of jean causes surface fibres to break and detach fibres on surface dyed with indigo therefore removed reducing indigo
MAIN PERFORMANCE OF CELLULASE ENZYMES DEPENDS ON TWO PRIMER VARIABLES 1-TEMPARATURE 2-pH
Temperature profiles
Activity/Stability
110 100
90
rel. activity in %
80
70
ENZYME 1
60
ENZYME 2
50
40
30
20 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75
temperature in C
Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles
RBD Garment Team 10/06
pH profile
Activity/Stability
120 100 ENZYME 2
80 rel. activity in %
60 ENZYME 1 40
20
0 3 4 5 6 pH
RBD Garment Team 10/06
10
Lava Cell N-ST Lava Cell N-ST 250 Lava Cell N-TE Lava Cell NG Lava Cell BALANCE Lava Cell N-NM Lava Cell Liquid A Lava Cell POWER
Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles
BIOPOLISHING
Here we use cellulases again to attack and weaken the cellulose fibres. Any fibres protruding for the surface of the garment are weakened and exposed and prone to being broken. Enzyme action alone is not enough to cause the breakage mechanical action is also needed. Either the action of fabric in jet, or in tumble drying.
Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles
RBD Garment Team 10/06
BIOPOLISH
Process to attack the surface of the garment to remove hairiness, pilling
often called
anti pill wash de-pill wash flat wash biopolishing
Biopolishing
fibrilated cotton the effect on the fabric surface
biopolished cotton
ACID CELLULASE
Working range ph 4.5 5.5 strong medium action attack on cotton (cellulose) fibre
attacks cotton fibres on surface of jean causes surface fibres to break and detach creates smooth
Lava Cell B-TS Lava Cell B-HX Lava Cell B-EX Lava Cell B-FX KONZ Lava Cell B-IX Lava Cell B-LA Lava Cell B-LH Lava Cell B-LK
Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles
55-65 C -Ph 4,5-5 55-65 C -Ph 4,5-5 55-65 C -Ph 4,5-5 55-65 C -Ph 4,5-5 55-65 C -Ph 4,5-5 55-65 C -Ph 4,5-5 55-65 C -Ph 4,5-5 55-65 C -Ph 4,5-5
RBD Garment Team 10/06
Bio-polishing
Commonly known as flat washing. Often done after garment dyeing to clean up the garment Also done to soften up garments Possible problems
Change of shade Loss of fastness Loss of strength Damage to threads/sewings Weakening of seams Bursts.
ENZYMATIC BLEACHING SYSTEM Laccase enzyme Decolourises Indigo without using bleach Provides very good contrast Gives a fashionable grey cast Does not affect tensile strength Easy process
The indigo dyestuff is reduced to water-soluble decomposition products by oxidoreductase (Lava Zyme LITE) and removed by rinsing. This process is boosted by the mediator, which is contained in the product. Due to the pH-value of 5.5 6.5 which is necessary for this bleaching process stickers made of leather and metal are treated carefully as well as the garment itself. Sulphur and reactive dyestuffs are not affected by this bleaching system. It is specific to indigo dyestuff. This means there is no attack to the cotton fibre and so nearly no loss in tensile strength. Without any particular after-scouring or after-bleaching a greyer colour shade compared to other bleaching systems especially chlorine bleaching - is obtained. A clearer shade may be achieved by after-bleaching with hydrogen peroxide. It is essential to rinse and wash after bleaching. Then, a softener is applied on the garment and finished as normal.
RBD Garment Team 10/06
Rapid bleaching of elastane containing indigo-dyed jeans based on acid released peroxide donator allows fast deep bleaching of denim lycra without damaging elastane easier to control than hypochlorite gives fashionable grey blue grey blue can be turned back to blue blue easily A safe way to bleach denim lycra.
FINISHING
Finishing part of the garment wash is one of the most important issue which will complete the look of the garment with handle. these are the main product groups for finishing part of laundry business 1-Cationic softeners 2-non-ionic softeners 3-micro silikons 4-macro silikons 5-nano-silikons 6-stiff coating
EvoSoft UNT
Nonionic fatty acid with additives Pumpable liquid
provides a full, soft flowing hand is extremely stable against yellowing
EVOSoft GFL
Universal quaternary softener (cationic) Very soft voluminous handle Excellent surface smoothness Stable against to yellowing Increases the pile stability
EVOSoft PEN
Non-ionic PE wax emulsion gives a smoothness on the surface improves sewability improves tear strength at resin finishes improves resistance to pilling
EVOSoft MCT
Special non-ionic micro silikon emulsion No color change, suitable for white colors Improves the strength of the fabric Smooth and soft handle High wash fastness
EVOSoft MSA
Non-ionic macro silikon Elastic silikon handle Non yellowing High working stability High washing stability
EVOSoft VJS
Silikon solution (Not emulsion) Extremely shear stable One of the safest silikon for jet type of machines At laundry prosesses it is repariable (after this silikon you can easily repair the color)
EVOSoft HWA
Amido siloxane Slightly hydrophilic Secure softening (no spots)
EVOSoft SEL
Water based non-ionic silikon elastomer Has high washfastness at 30-40 degree washes and dry cleaning Suitable to use at fashion denim aplications Improves the strength and shining of the garment when it used with resin aplictions at laundry business
Introduction
The discolouration of textiles, i.e. a change of shade or loss of whiteness, giving a yellow tint, is commonly known as YELLOWING. It is a widespread problem and there is no single reason for its cause. Instead a number of conditions can singly or in combination lead to the problem. Yellowing is not specific to certain fibres, finishes or washing processes.
It is NOT specific to chemicals or chemical treatments, but certainly factors within these can lead to yellowing
It is not possible to isolate one cause for yellowing, so in this presentation, we will look at some of the different types of yellowing which may be encountered in Indigo dyed fabrics or garments
Yellowing
Cotton, as can all organic polymers, yellows with age. As it ages, it develops a yellow tint. This ageing cannot explain severe yellowing, or accelerated yellowing problems . Light, acids, impurities, detergents and chemicals, overdosed FBAs contribute to yellowing problems But these alone do not explain yellowing problems in cotton and Indigo dyed fabrics 1. Yellowing occurs on fabrics without FBA 2. FBAs quality has been constantly improved 3. Our knowledge and experience in their application has Garment Team RBD 10/06 improved .
Phenolic Yellowing
Certain lubricants used in weaving are known to create yellowing
Hydrocarbon oils commonly used in weaving or knitting as lubricants yellow with age due to oxidation .
PHENOLIC YELLOWING
Phenolic Yellowing
The presence of antioxidants can also cause serious yellowing problems They react with NOx This reaction causes yellowing A Common Antioxidant is BHT (butylated hydrox toluene). This is of phenolic basis and readily reacts with NOx producing yellowing.
This is just one of number of phenolic compounds which similarly react producing yellow coloured Quinoid derivatives
Phenolic Yellowing
Anti Oxidants are used in all of these materials Packaging materials Sewing machine lubricants Sewing lubricants applied to fabrics Finishing chemicals (including FBAs) Fibres (coning, spinning-oils, or released from elastomeric fibres) Silicon Softeners, or emulsifiers used to make silicon emulsions
Scorching
Temperature of drying and curing can impart yellowing due to scorching of the cotton fibre. Good control therefore must be used to minimise this type of damage
Reactions between contaminants in cardboard and plastics can produce ozone, nitrogen or sulphur oxides. These compounds can react to produce yellow compounds.
Ozone gassing on treated fabric with Silicon Original Lava Jeans softener PRO
2. sacrificial reaction
React with air pollutants and in the process of reaction break down into colourless compounds, but sometimes the breakdown compounds can accelerate classical yellowing effect.
3. alternative reaction partner 4. the most successful class of anti yellowing softeners which react with airborne pollutants thereby de-activating or weakening them before they are able to affect the indigo.
RBD Garment Team 10/06
Soft polyacrylate Offers excellent anti yellowing properties by film forming mechanism Gives high protection against yellowing effect Pumpable Gives unique smooth handle
25 40 C
Note: Applying common softening agents with Lava Jeans PRO can impair the impact of Lava Jeans PRO. Silicon softening agent should not be used because they increase the risk of yellowing.
O C N C Denim exposed to O3 O H H
O3 levels worldwide a) winter b) summer
Treatment of ready-made denim in drum-type washing machines Add to the last rinse 2 5 % o.w..g. Lava Jeans PRO Set at pH 4 5 with acetic acid Bath temperature: Treatment time: Liquor ratio: 4:1 8:1 Note: Applying common softening agent with Lava Jeans PRO can impair the impact of Lava Jeans PRO. Silicon softening agent should not be used because they increase the risk of yellowing.
Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles
Control Denim
25 40 C 10 min
N
RBD Garment Team 10/06
GARMENT CURE
DyStar Process for wrinkle free garments
Introduction to Denim Laundry Principles
RBD Garment Team 10/06
Garment-Cure Garment-Cure -
The approved concept for non-iron and wrinkle-resistant finish on garments is an industry-proven method for wash and wear finishing of ready-made garments such as trousers, skirts and shirts. meets the technological and ecological demands of the market.
Garment-Cure -
Advantages of Garment-CURE: suitable for all ready-made garments made of natural cellulosic and man-made cellulosic fibres provides non-iron effects, if desired also with permanent crease prevents creasing during wear as well as after washing and tumble-drying (easy care) is fast to washing meets requirements of Ecotex-Standard 100
DyStar products for the Garment-CURE process: Evo Pret RCI Evo Soft VNI Evo Soft ME Evo Soft SNY Evo Soft ELP Evo Soft PEN Evo Protect FSU
self-cross linking DMDHEU resin fatty acid softener silicone micro emulsion elastomeric silicon micro emulsion elastomeric macro silicon emulsion softener for improvement of the tear strength fluorocarbon resin for water repellent finish (stain release)
Application recipe: A. Dip-spinning: - liquor to goods ratio: - bath temperature: - pH value of the bath: - treatment time: 4 : 1 - 10 : 1 25 - 40 C 4.0 - 5.0 10 min
100 % cotton trousers (proposal): 25 - 50 g/l Evo Pret RCI 5 - 20 g/l Evo Soft ME or SNY 20 - 40 g/l Evo Soft VNI 0 - 1 g/l Sera Wet M-DF
Denim trousers (pre-washed and neutralized): 40 - 70 g/l Evo Pret RCI 10 - 30 g/l Evo Soft VNI 10 - 30 g/l Evo Soft PEN 0 - 1 g/l Sera Wet M-DF Linen trousers: 40 - 70 g/l Evo Pret RCI 20 - 40 g/l Evo Soft VNI 10 - 30 g/l Evo Soft SNY or Evo Soft ELP (prediluted) 0 - 1 g/l Sera Wet M-DF
Hydroextract 80 - 100 % pick-up 2. Tumble dry 80 100 C 10 - 20 % residual moisture 3. Iron or topper treatment or press (if a perm. crease is requested):
a. steam 5 - 10 sec b. press 10 - 15 sec. at 150 - 180 C no steam c. vacuum 3 - 5 sec. (pressure 4 - 7 bar . 28 - 42 psi) 4.Cure