Professional Documents
Culture Documents
A TOY SUPERDREADNOUGHT
BATTLESHIP
from
CARPENTRY & MECHANICS FOR BOYS
by A. Neely Hall ©1918
your first model be simple. You form. Details other than those
can elaborate upon a second shown upon the model illus-
model as much as you please. trated can be added if you wish
The way to make a simpli- to spend more time upon the
fied model of a battleship, build- work.
ing, piece of machinery, or any Materials. The best mate-
other structure, is to get a pic- rial for model making is white
ture of it, or to look upon the pine, but cypress, spruce, or any
object itself, and pick out the other soft wood, will serve the
half dozen or so parts which purpose. For the hull of the
Sticks 1/8 inch and 1/4 inch in Figure 252 shows a plan and
diameter, the small gun mounts side elevation of
are cut from a 3/8-inch dowel- The Hull, with all of the di-
stick. The pins connecting the mensions necessary for cutting
various parts are cut from 1/4- it out. Figure 253 shows the
inch dowel-sticks. Button-moulds completed hull. The curves of
1-1/4 inches in diameter fit over the ends should be alike, and the
the ends of the gun turret piv- best way to get them alike is to
ots. draw a center-line lengthwise,
3
line with a plane, and sandpa-
per the edges smooth.
The Superstructure-Deck
(6, Figs. 254 and 255) may be
marked out by placing the hull
block upon a board 5/8 inch
thick, and marking out around
its sides. The deck piece is a trifle
more than two-thirds of the
length of the hull. The dimen-
sions are on the diagrams (Fig.
254). Openings for the guns
must be cut in the deck piece
along the side edges. The open-
ings are made by boring 1/2-
inch holes 1/2 inch deep (Figs.
251 and 255). They are located
in Fig. 254. The centers are
placed 1/8 inch inside of the
8
CHAPTER XI
A TOY SUBMARINE
evation
is shown in Fig.
269, and an end eleva-
tion is shown in Fig. 270. the way by
This toy submarine dives, rubber-band
then returns to the surface. K, trigger E is
The Mechanism is best un- sprung out of
derstood by referring to the dia- the way by rubber-
grams of Figs. 269 and 270. The band G (see dotted lines in Fig.
central section D is a tin can 269), and can D is released. Re-
filled with sand, for ballast. One lieved of its ballast, the subma-
end is supported upon a brad, rine rises to the surface. To
the other end upon the trigger make the boat dive again, it is
E. Trigger E is held by catch J, but necessary to attach the tin
which slips into a notch cut in can and reset the trigger.
the edge of E. Can D is of suffi- Instead of having the sub-
cient weight when filled with marine dive, discharge its
sand, to sink the submarine. weight, and instantly rise to the
When the submarine reaches surface, you can make the trig-
9
FIG. 269.—Side Elevation of Completed Toy
Submarine Shown in Fig. 268. (See photo-
graph facing Page 129)
13
CHAPTER XII
A FLEET OF TOY BATTLESHIPS
conjunction with the fort and to make them all of the form
toy cannon described in the fol- shown in Fig. 251 of Chapter X.
lowing chapter, you can stage Several of that size will do. Make
wonderful land and naval en- the others simpler, of the cruiser
gagements that will take hours types shown in Figs. 281 and
to fight out to a finish. If you 293 of this chapter.
have never played at miniature Figure 282 shows a detail of
14
FIG. 282. — Detail Showing How the Hull (A), Superstructure-Deck (B),
Masts (C), Fighting-Tops (D and E), Funnels (G), Conning-Tower
(H, I) Gun Turrets (K), Main-Battery Guns (i), Secondary Battery
Guns (N), Running Gear (P, Q, R), and Aerial (S, T, U) are Assembled
15
FIG. 283. — Plan and Side Elevation of Hull
21
CHAPTER XIII
TOY ARTILLERY AND
MINIATURE WARFARE
those of real war, if one under- was impressed with the com-
stands military tactics. Without pleteness of equipment for min-
that knowledge, however, you iature warfare, yet realized how
can make up your own rules of impractical it was to expect that
warfare, and the author believes the average boy with limited
that no more interesting game pocket-money might buy
for an evening, or for a whole enough of the equipment for a
day, in fact, could be found. That battle-field setting. Then he re-
more boys do not play with-toy membered as a lad how easily
soldiers is probably because he had made guns, forts, etc.,
they haven't sufficient proper- for miniature battles, and he
ties for staging a battle. A hand- decided to show you how you
ful of soldiers and "dummy" can do the same. Accordingly,
cannon will not answer the pur- when he went home he sum-
pose. There must be men and moned his own lead soldiers,
equipment enough for two op- who had last seen service some
posing armies, and the guns twenty-five years ago, and to a
must be of a type that shoot play man they responded (including
shells, else they will afford little three men decapitated by shell
22
The author never
owned more than a
small company of
lead soldiers, and
therefore depended
upon paper soldiers
for the main fighting
strength of his
FIG. 3 0 5 . - FIELD ARTILLERY GUN armies.
Next to toy soldiers
fire in one of the engagements in importance are guns, and in
of the early nineties). A "muni- Figs. 305 and 306 you will find
tion factory" was then orga- two excellent models that are
nized, miniature fortifications not hard to make. Shaping the
built, and a battlefield
prepared with men and
artillery in battle forma-
tion, as pictured in the
photograph of Fig. 304.
If you do not own any
lead soldiers, you will find
a good type of soldiers in
the stores right now that
Sell at 50 cents a dozen. FIG. 306. - SIEGE ARTILLERY GUN.
Paper soldiers can be pur-
chased for 2 cents a dozen. Lead guns is a simple problem in bor-
soldiers look best, of course, but ing and whittling.
paper soldiers serve excellently. A working detail of
The Field Artillery Gun is
shown in Fig. 307. The gun tube
is made in two pieces, as is
shown in the longitudinal sec-
tion of Fig. 308 (A and B). Use
straight-grained, soft pine, free
from knots and other defects for
the tube pieces. First cut
a pair of blocks to the di-
mensions of A and 6
(Figs. 309 and 310).
Then with a 3/8-inch bit
bore a hole through the
FIG. 307. — Detail of Field Artillery Gun
entire length of block A,
23
at its center. A hole must be line.
bored through block B from end With the blocks bored, put
to end, also, but three diameters a keen edge upon your jackknife
must be used for this, hole, as is blade, preparatory to
indicated by dotted lines in Fig. Shaping the Outside of the
310. To make this hole, first bore Gun. Figures 311 and 312 show
a hole 3/4 inch deep with a the diameters to which the
5/8-inch bit, then with a 3/8- blocks should be cut. Shape
inch bit and the same center, down the small end of each
continue the hole for a distance block first, then work back to
of 3 inches, and from that point the other end. At the muzzle end
bore the hole through the re- of the block A, make the wood
maining 3/4-inch length of the around the bore as thin as you
block with a 1/4-inch bit. In or- can cut it without cutting
der to produce a bore that is through, and from that point
straight, it is necessary to bore taper the wood up to the other
the holes exactly in a straight end. Round off the breech end
FIG 314
FIG. 315
FIG. 313
Fig. 315
FIG. 313
FIG. 308. — Longitudinal Section of Gun Shown in Fig. 307
FIGS. 309 and 310. — Wooden Blocks Required for Tube of Gun
FIGS. 311 and 312. — How the Blocks are Bored and Shaped
FIGS. 313 and 314. — Details of Plunger
FIG. 315. — Detail of 3/8-inch Shell
24
FIG. 323
FIG. 317
25
of block B, and taper off the make the shells discharge from
other end, as shown. the gun with a minimum
After cutting, sandpaper the amount of friction, wax them
surfaces of both pieces of the and wax the bore of the gun.
tube until absolutely smooth, If you find that the spring
and see that the end of piece A does not recoil satisfactorily, try
fits snugly into the hole in the a smaller or larger gauge of
end of B; these sections are to brass wire. Provided you use
be glued together later. spring-brass wire, you should
The Plunger (C, Fig. 308) have no trouble with the coil.
may be either a piece of a Space the turns of the coil about
dowel-stick, or a stick whittled as shown in Fig. 313. With the
round, of the size shown in Fig. spring properly adjusted, glue
313. Drill a small hole through together the two sections of the
the plunger stick 1-1/2 inches gun tube, and the gun will be
from one end, slip a piece of ready for mounting on
spring-brass wire through the The Gun-Carriage. Figure
hole, and wind the wire loosely 316 shows a rear elevation of the
around the stick to about the mounted gun, and Fig. 317
point shown, to form a spiral shows a detail of the carriage
spring. Slip the end of the framework. The pair of carriages
plunger into section B of the F may be prepared in one piece,
gun, and out through the hole cut out of a piece of wood 5/8
in the breech. Saw off the end inch thick, then sawed in half.
of a spool (D, Fig. 314), glue it Figure 318 shows a dimen-
upon the end of the plunger sioned pattern for marking out
(Fig. 308), and drive a small the piece. The 1/4-inch hole is
brad through the spool end into for the wheel axle; the 1 /8-inch
the plunger end, to reinforce the hole is for the trunnion screws
connection. on which the gun is to be
Test the Gun to see that the mounted. Separator block G
spring rebounds properly after (Fig. 317) braces the trail of the
its compression, before you glue carriage. Make it of the size
sections A and B together. Fig- shown in Fig. 319. Before fasten-
ure 315 shows a detail of the ing carriages F to G, cut wheel
Three-Eighths Inch Shells. axle K (Fig. 322), and slip it into
These can be sawed up quickly, the holes bored for it, to keep
to the given length, if you will the holes opposite one another
cut them from a 3/8-inch while you nail the pieces to-
dowel-stick. Taper one end of gether.
each shell to a point, as shown, The Gun-Carriage Wheels
and sandpaper smooth. To (l) may be prepared in one
26
piece, then sawed in half. Fig- the diagram of Fig. 323. Glue
ure 320 shows the pattern. The the gun to the bed block, and
best way to cut a wheel is to saw when the glue has set drive a
out the pieces roughly, first, small screw through each 1 car-
then trim up to the finish line riage into it.
with a sharp chisel, and sand- The Elevating Device of
paper the edge smooth. The this home-made gun is simple.
wheel hubs are spool ends (J, Drive four brads into the top
Fig. 321). Fasten them to the edge of each carriage (Fig. 317),
wheels with glue. Drive brads and cut the cross-bar H to slip
through the axle ends for pins between the brads. The bar can
to keep the wheels from com- be adjusted to four positions.
The Siege Gun shown
in Fig. 306 is made in
much the same way as
the field artillery gun just
described. In the detail of
the completed gun (Fig.
324), the dotted lines in-
dicate two of the posi-
tions to which the gun
can be elevated. The car-
riage is pivoted-like a
turntable to provide for
shifting the position lat-
FiG. 324. — Detail of Siege Artillery Gun erally.
ing off. Figure 325 shows a longitu-
Mounting the Gun. Be- dinal section of the gun. The
cause of the thinness of the tube tube is made of two pieces (A
of the gun, the screw trunnions and 8), and Figs. 326 and 327
cannot be driven into it. The gun show the dimensions of the
must be mounted upon a bed- blocks out of which to cut them.
block (E, Figs. 316 and 323), and Bore a 5/8 inch hole through
the trunnions screwed into the the center of block A, from end
block's sides. The upper side of to end, and a hole of the same
block E must be curved the size through all but 1 /4 inch of
same as the surface of the gun. the length of block B then with
To get the right curve, bore a 1 - a 1/4-inch bit bore a hole
inch hole through a block, then through the remaining 1 /4-inch
cut this block through at the of the length of block B (Fig.
center of the hole, and trim it 327). Care must be taken to
up to the dimensions shown in bore the holes absolutely
27
FIG. 332 FIG.333
FIG. 325. — Longitudinal Section of Gun Shown in Fig. 324
FIGS. 326 and 327. — Wooden Blocks Required for Tube of Gun
FIGS. 328 and 329. — How the Blocks are Bored and Shaped
FIGS. 330 and 331. — Tube Blocks Completed
FIG. 332. —Spool Connector
FIGS. 333-335. — Details of Plunger FIG. 336. — Half-inch Shell
28
straight, else the bore of the gun 1-1/2 inches from one end, stick
will not be straight, and the toy the end of a piece of spring-
shells will lose momentum be- brass wire through the hole (Fig.
fore leaving the muzzle of the 333), and wrap several turns of
gun. the wire about the rod to form
The first step in a spiral spring (Fig. 334). With
Shaping the Gun is similar the spring prepared, stick the
to that of shaping the field ar- rod through the breech open-
tillery gun. Whittle off the edges ing, and fasten a spool-end
of blocks A and B as shown in upon it with glue and a brad (E,
Figs. 328 and 329. The sides of Figs. 325 and 335).
block B must be kept straight; When you have tried out
the sides of block. A must taper the gun and found it to fire sat-
to a smaller diameter at the isfactorily with
muzzle end. Figures 330 and One-half Inch Shells (Fig.
331 give the diameters for the 336), cut out of dowel-sticks in
finished ends. In trimming up the way that the shells for the
block A, cut the flange at the other gun were made, glue to-
muzzle, end to the same diam- gether parts A, B, and C.
eter as the opposite end Cl- The Gun Carriage is shown
inch), then taper the wood from in detail in Fig. 337. Cut car-
the opposite end towards the riages A in one piece, out of
flange, making the thickness 5/8-inch stuff (Fig. 338), then
over the bore directly back of saw in half for the pair. Drill a
the flange, not much more than hole where indicated, through
the thickness of paper. Round which to run the trunnions on
block B at both ends, as shown which the cannon is to be
in Fig. 331. The pieces will then mounted. Cut base block B to
be ready for sandpapering. the dimensions given in Fig.
Pieces A and B are con- 339, nail the carriages to its
nected by the tube C, a spool sides, and drive lever C into a
(Fig. 332) with its flanges cut hole bored in one end. Cut turn-
off, and its sides whittled to fit table base D of the size shown
snugly in the bores of A and B in Fig. 340, bore a screw-hole
(Figs. 325 and 332). Beforejoin- through its center and drive a
ingthe gun-tube sections, how- screw through the hole into
ever. base B of the gun carriage. The
The Plunger for projecting trunnion screws on which the
the toy shells (D, Fig. 32.5) must gun is mounted, can be screwed
be prepared, and be fastened in through the holes in carriages
place in-the breech end of the A directly into tube B of the gun,
bore. Drill a hole through rod D because the thickness of the
29
FIG. 339 FIG. 340
FIG. 337. — Detail of Gun-Carriage FIG. 339. — Carriage Base
FIG. 338. — Pattern for Carriages FIG. 340. — Turntable Base
the center embrasure of the for- board. Use evergreen twigs for
tification, instead of a gun (Fig. trees. Make tents out of small
341). Stick a small flag in a block pieces of cardboard folded V-
of wood, set the block in the em- shape. The author wishes that
brasure, and connect a string to he might show some of the
tacks driven into the block and other battle scenes he has mod-
into the fortification. As the flag eled, with hills, valleys, streams,
is to be fired upon, don't use an bridges, etc., but space does not
American flag. That would be an permit it.
act of disloyalty. You can make There are many ways of
a small flag by fastening a piece waging miniature wars. You can
of cardboard to the end of a make and develop your own
stick, as shown in Fig. 344 rules for fighting, and for deter-
Suggestions for mining the victors. Mr. H.G.
Laying Out the Battlefield Wells, the English author, liter-
will be obtained from the pho- ary critic, and war correspon-
tograph of Fig. 304. Books piled dent, wrote an interesting vol-
31
ume several years ago, entitled interesting. The author's minia-
"Little Wars ," which, if you can ture battles, participated in by
procure at your local public li- his brother, and his chum Cap-
brary, will give you many valu- tain David Ross Fraser, U.S.A.,
able suggestions for operating will always be remembered by
on both a large and a small each as among the most thrill-
scale. Mr. Wells has spent sev- ing of their boyhood pastimes.
eral days at a stretch, with Battles were fought out to a fin-
friends, in working out minia- ish, until every gun on one side
ture war maneuvers, and you had been silenced, every man
will find his descriptions of slain.
battles won and lost, intensely
32
CHAPTER XVII
A TOY MACHINE-GUN
34
match. Two mortises must be cut to prepare these parts so they
in block B, one mortise down will be alike is to tack together
through the top as far as the bar- two 3/8-inch boards, mark out
rel bore, the other up through the outline upon one board, and
the bottom as far as the bore. then saw out the two pieces at
The mortises are located, and
their sizes are indicated, on Figs.
413 and 415. Mark out the
mortises carefully. Bore
several 1/2-inch holes in-
side of the mortise lines,
boring them as deep as
the barrel bore, then cut
out the wood between
the holes with a chisel,
and square up the mor-
tises.
When blocks A
and B have been prepared, fas-
ten them together with plate C
(Fig. 413). Cut this of the same
width as the blocks, and 10
inches long, and lap it as shown.
Handle E on the breech end is a
wire coat-hook. Mark Out side
pieces D of the stock frame
by the pattern shown
in Fig. 416. The
easiest way
one time. Plane up and sandpa- must be straight, and its ends
per the edges before separating must be reamed out with a file
the pieces. Also, bore the holes if burrs remain on the inside
shown in Fig. 416 - four 1/8- edges from the cutting of the
inch holes near the top edge, pipe. The author used a piece of
and four holes of the sizes iron gas-pipe in his first model,
marked, in the positions located. but found that brass tubing is
Use for these holes will be better as it presents a smoother
shown later. inside surface, it is easier to cut,
The piece of tubing for also. You can get brass tubing at
The Barrel must be free almost any machine-shop. If
from corroSion on the inside, it they haven't a piece of the right
size at hand, they will likely get
a piece for you, or be able to tell
FIG. 416
you where you can get it. A piece for a distance of 4 inches. You
20 inches long is required. Fig- can cut the slot with a flat file
ures 417 and 418 show how the 1/8 inch thick, using it edge-
chamber end of the barrel must wise, and making the slot equal
be slotted for a length of 2 in width to the thickness of the
inches, and how the upper half file. The upper part of the tub-
of the tubing must be cut away ing can be cut away by using the
37
FIG. FIG.
FIG. 417 420 419
FIG. 418
FIGS. 417 and 418. — Details of Tubing for Machine-Gun Barrel
FIGS. 419 and 420. — Details of Front Sight
FIG. 423
FIGS. 421 and 422. — Details of Hammer-Rod and Pivot
FIG. 423. — Detail of Firing-Crank
38
FIG. 428 FIG. 427
FIG. 424
FIG. 425
right length to fill the space each and 421). Pull out several turns
side of the rod. A 1 /4-inch bolt of one end as shown in Fig. 421,
3 inches in length is required for and slip them over the upper
the hammer-rod pivot (/, Fig. end of the hammer rod. Pin the
421). other end of the spring between
The Hammer Spring is a pieces D with the nail K (Figs.
screen-door spring (J, Figs. 411 410 and 411), slipping the nail
39
FIG. 435
FIG. 437 FIG. 429 FIG. 432 FIG. 433 FIG. 431
through the holes in the fore before the latter are fastened to
end of pieces D. It may be nec- the stock. Figure 411 shows the
essary to break off an inch or right position for the hammer
so of one end of the spring, to tip when the hammer-rod has
make it short enough so it will been released, and Fig. 412
be held in tension when its ends shows the point to which the
are fastened. hammer must be drawn by the
The Firing Crank (L., Figs. firing-crank rod tripper before
410 and 411) is made of wire of being released. If you have bent
the same thickness as that used the hammer-rod and firing-
for the hammer-rod. Figure 423 crank rod as shown in the draw-
shows dimensions for bending ings, the hammer tip should
the piece. The loop bent in this come at the two points shown.
piece of wire acts as a tripper If it does not, bending the wires
on the hammer-rod end, as you at slightly different angles will
will see by looking at Figs. 410 bring about the proper adjust-
and 411. The hammer-rod, ment.
spring, and firing-crank must be Before proceeding further
mounted in the gun-stock with the construction, it will be
frame between side pieces D well to test out the machine-gun
40
FIG-441 then wax and polish
them. To make the
bore of the barrel as
smooth as possible,
pour oil into it, and
then, with a piece of
soft rag on the end of
a slender stick, spread
the oil and remove the
surplus. Give plenty of
time to testing the fir-
ing efficiency of the
FIG. 439
gun, and adjust and re-
adjust the hammer-rod
and firing-crank rod
until you are satisfied with
the results obtained.
The Magazine (Fig. 425) is
fastened to the gun-stock
directly over the upper
mortise, so that the
cartridges dropped
into it will slip into the
chamber beneath. Fig-
ure 426 shows how to
cut the piece of tin required
FIG. 438 for the magazine, from the side
of a tin can. Leave the turned
over edge on the can side, as
shown, to reinforce the upper
edge of the magazine. Figure
427 gives the dimen-
FIG. 438. — Wash-Basin Helmet sions for cutting and
FIGS. 439-441.—HOW to Attach Rings and Straps
to Wash-Basin folding the piece of tin.
Bend the lower edge to
with form flanges through which to
Cartridges. These are drive tacks for fastening the
pieces of dowel-sticks 3/8 inch magazine to the top of the gun-
in diameter, cut to the length stock.
shown in Fig. 424, with one end The weight shown in Fig.
whittled cartridge-shape. Sand- 428 is necessary to hold down
paper the cartridges smooth, the cartridges so the bottom
41
cartridge will always be in the (Fig. 429). Cut socket block Q of
right position in the chamber the size shown in Fig. 434, bore
for the hammer to strike. A a hole through its center to re-
piece of solder, or a piece of al- ceive the yoke V, and fasten it
most any kind of metal, will do. to the exact center of tripod
If you use solder, a screw-eye head P.
can be set into one side, to Prepare yoke V and lever W
which to attach a piece of string (Fig. 435) of the dimensions
as a means for lifting out the shown in Figs, 436 and 437. Cut
weight after the last of the car- the spindle on the lower end of
tridges has been fired, prepara- yoke V to fit the hole in socket
tory to refilling (Fig. 425). The block Q, and bore a hole
slot in the side of the magazine through the upper end of the
is made wide enough so the fin- yoke through which to drive the
ger can be slipped along it to axis bolt for pivoting the gun, to
guide the cartridges dropped provide for changing elevations.
into the magazine. Use the thumb-bolt X and wing-
Figure 410 shows bolt Y (Fig. 410) for making this
The Tripod mount for the connection.
machine-gun, and Figs. 429 to Paint all parts of the gun
434 show details of its construc- black or grey. To make them less
tion. Prepare the head block P conspicuous in the field, it is
of the dimensions given in Fig. common practice to paint guns
434, and cut three notches in by what is known as the "rain-
the edge, of the sizes shown, bow smudge" system. But you
and spaced equidistantly, for the will not want to dabble in the
legs. Bore the center hole to re- art of camouflage when finish-
ceive the yoke spindle V (Fig. ingyour toy machine-gun. To be
436). Cut the front pair of legs an up-todate machine gunner,
R and the rear leg S of the sizes you must wear
shown in Fig. 431 Bore a 3/8- A Helmet like that the boys
inch hole through each leg in Fig. 409 are wearing. A detail
1-1/4 inches from the upper of this helmet is shown in Fig.
end, and cut off the corners of 438. It consists of a tin wash-
the lower end as shown. To basin 11 inches in diameter (Fig.
mount the legs, screw a screw- 439) with a pair of rings bent
eye into the tripod head each out of wire (Fig. 440) soldered
side of each notch (7", Fig. 432), to the inside, through which to
then cut the dowel-pin pivots U run the chin-strap (Fig. 441)
(Fig. 433), and drive them Stitch the strap to the rings, to
through screw-eyes T and keep the basin from slipping
through the holes in the legs sidewise.
42
CHAPTER XVIII
DRILL-GUNS
reason why a boys' club or class must have fallen far short of
should not organize a drill club. standard specifications, because
The handbook INFANTRY DRILL there were no dimensioned-
REGULATIONS, which can be pur- drawings in the woodshed
chased for 50 cents, should be "arms plant" to work by; but, as
obtained as a reference book, the author recollects, the guns
and should be followed closely. were fearsome looking weap-
Its instructions will be under- ons, with long tinfoil-covered
stood more easily after drill stick bayonets, which, by the
movements have been demon- way, were "fixed" at all times
strated by the drill master. which is strictly against regula-
43
• * ! ' .
FIG. 4 4 3 . - SQUAD AT "PORT ARMS" (EQUIPPED WITH HOME-MADE
DRILL-GUNS AND WASH-BASIN HELMETS.)
tions, but unknown to the boys upon a piece of paper, and re-
at that time. You can make bet- produce the outline exactly as
ter guns than these were, for it is shown upon the small
this chapter presents all of the squares. Saw out the piece,
working details necessary. round the edges, and sandpaper
The-Simple Model of Drill- the wood. This will provide
Gun shown in Fig. 444 has a A Pattern for Marking Out
stock cut in one piece. A pattern Duplicate Stocks. You will save
for this, ruled off into squares time by marking out at one time
measuring 1/8 inch each way, as many of the stocks as you will
each square representing 1 inch, require.
is shown in Fig. 445. To lay out The Barrel is made of a
a full-size pattern, draw a simi- broom-handle (Fig. 447). Cut a
lar set of squares, 1 inch square, shallow groove along the top
44
edge of the stock for and bend down the tips of
the barrel to fit in, these. Tack the sights to the
and fasten the barrel barrel in the positions shown
with screws and in Fig. 444.
wire bands. The gun will now be ready
For a Trigger, for
drive a bent nail (C, Finishing. Give the stock a
Fig. 448) into the coat of stain or paint of a
stock at the point in- walnut color. Stain is prefer-
dicated in Fig. 446, able to paint. When the
and for stain has dried, apply a coat
A Trigger- of shellac, then a coat of
Guard fasten a flat varnish. Paint the
plumber's pipe- barrel black; also the
strap (D, Fig. 448) to trigger, triggerguard,
the stock, covering and sights.
the trigger. The drill-gun shown in
For the Front Fig. 452 is
Sight, bend a piece FlG 445. — Pattern of A Springfield
of tin into the shape Stock of Drill-Gun Rifle Model. Its stock
of E (Fig. 449), for Shown in Fig. 444 requires considerable
The Rear Sight more work to cut than
FIG. 447
(F, Fig. 450) cut a piece of tin of the stock of the simpler model,
the shape shown in Fig. 451, but most boys prefer it for drill-
bend it in half, turn up the ends, ing because its lines more nearly
45
FIG. 454. — Detail of Front Sight FIG. 465
FIG. 455. — Pattern of Front Sight
48