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Basic Swimming Pool Water Chemistry

Basic Swimming Pool Water Chemistry

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Published by mozzy72
For anything to do with pools, pool equipment, swimming for fun or fitness goto http://www.abercrombie1.com
For anything to do with pools, pool equipment, swimming for fun or fitness goto http://www.abercrombie1.com

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Published by: mozzy72 on Feb 11, 2012
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02/11/2012

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 ==== ====Anything & everything to do with Swimming Pools, clothes, equipment & toys. Check this site out!http://www.abercrombie1.com ==== ====Pool pH & Pool Alkalinity The pH and Alkalinity levels of swimming pool water affect many areas of the swimming pool andmust be kept at the correct levels if you expect to successfully maintain your swimming pool. TheAlkalinity of pool water acts as a buffer for the pH, and helps prevent the pool pH level fromfluctuating. The Alkalinity should be maintained at 80 - 120 ppm. The pH is the measure of theacidity of the swimming pool water, and the pH level should be maintained at 7.2 - 7.6 ppm. ThepH of pool water is somewhat sensitive, but easily controlled if the Alkalinity is kept in range. Allbasic pool test kits should read the pH and Alkalinity level of pool water, and these levels areeasily adjusted with common water balancing pool chemicals. If the pool pH level is not kept inrange pool water may irritate the skin and eyes of swimmers, corrode the pool surface and insideof the pool equipment and make it very hard to maintain the chlorine level of the swimming pool. Pool Chlorine Stabilizer The chemical name of pool "Stabilizer" is Cyanuric Acid and it is referred to by either title. TheStabilizer level of swimming pool water must be maintained at 30-50 ppm. The Stabilizer level isimportant, but is typically only tested at the beginning of the swimming season when a pool isopened. The Stabilizer in swimming pool water partially surrounds the chlorine on a molecularlevel, to protect the chlorine and prevent the chlorine from being quickly burned off and used up bythe sun.The symptoms of having too much Stabilizer or too little stabilizer in your pool water are verysimilar, and if you experience problems maintaining a chlorine level when all other chemical levelsare properly balanced the stabilizer level should be tested. If the Stabilizer level tests lower than30 ppm it will be difficult to maintain a chlorine level, because any chlorine added to yourswimming pool will quickly evaporate and burn off in direct sunlight. If the Stabilizer level testsabove 50 ppm it will also be difficult to maintain a chlorine level. Rather than partially surroundingthe chlorine in your pool water to protect the chlorine, too much stabilizer will completely surroundthe chlorine making it inactive. In this state the chlorine is unable to combine with bacteria andharmful contaminants to sanitize your swimming pool. Stabilizer can be added to a swimming pool if necessary to raise the level, however onceStabilizer is present in pool water it cannot be easily removed. To reduce the amount of Stabilizerin a swimming pool the water must be diluted by partially draining the pool and re-filling with freshwater. 25% of the pool water should be drained and replaced with fresh water. The pool should becirculated for 12-24 hours, and the Stabilizer level should be tested again. This process should be
 
repeated until the Stabilizer level is within range.The chlorine tablets and granular chlorine used to sanitize a swimming pool on a daily basis is apre-stabilized form of chlorine. This means that the chlorine contains a small amount of stabilizer,and as chlorine is added to the pool a very small amount of Stabilizer is also added to helpmaintain the level. This small amount of Stabilizer constantly added with pool chlorine does notcause a problem in outdoor swimming pools because water is splashed out or evaporates, andgets replaced with fresh water to dilute the Stabilizer. This pre-stabilized form of chlorine cannotbe used in indoor swimming pools, because much less water evaporation occurs and the stabilizerlevel will slowly buildup. Indoor swimming pool owners need to use an un-stabilized form ofchlorine. Calcium Hardness The calcium hardness of swimming pool water refers to the amount of the mineral calcium presentin the pool water. The calcium hardness should be maintained at 80-150 ppm in a pool with a vinylliner, or 150-200 ppm in a concrete or plaster finish pool. Low levels of calcium hardness can leadto corrosive water conditions, which may damage the pool surface, pool equipment and poolplumbing. If the water in a plaster or masonry finish pool becomes corrosive, the water will absorbcalcium from the pool walls and floor by eating away at the pool surface until the hardness levelnears 150 ppm. The calcium hardness level can be easily raised using a Calcium HardnessIncreaser available from most pool supply dealers.High levels of calcium hardness may lead to cloudy pool water and "scaling". Scaling is mostvisible around the water line of a swimming pool as a white chalky deposit, but also forms insidepool equipment and pool plumbing. A pool Calcium Hardness Reducer chemical is available frommost pool supply companies to lower the hardness to the desired range for your pool. You mayalso partially drain and refill a swimming pool with fresh water, which has a lower concentration ofCalcium. Calcium is present in the water used to fill the pool and in the pool chemicals used to treat thewater. The pool chemical that adds the most calcium to pool water is standard chlorine pool shock.If you find that your calcium hardness level is too high, read the label of the pool shock you'vebeen using and you will likely find that the active ingredient is calcium hypochlorite. Each time thispool shock is added to the pool water, calcium is added to the water. To prevent this problembegin using Chlorine-Free Pool Shock on a regular basis, instead of standard chlorine pool shock(Calcium Hypochlorite). The active ingredient in chlorine-free pool shock is PotassiumMonopersulfate, which does the same job of oxidizing bacteria and harmful organics but does notcontain any calcium. If you choose to switch to chlorine-free shock you should always still keep thestandard chlorine pool shock on hand, because it is the only pool chemical capable of killing algae. 

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