destinations CuLture VuLture

roy al
command
Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos are linked not just by geography and a tumultuous recent history but also by their regal heritage. DunCan Forgan visits the royal capitals of Indochina to investigate how this past impacts upon the present.
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It may be one of VIetnams most beautIful

cities, but miserable conditions are all too common in Hue. The countrys former imperial capital has a reputation for bad weather meaning that a mission to reach the resting place of Emperor Gia Long, the oldest of the royal tombs scattered erratically along the banks of the Perfume River, during the winter months is often shrouded in mystery as thick as the freezing cold mist that regularly envelops the city. Indeed, the thick cloying mud and the cavernous puddles that pockmark the road to the tomb are enough of a deterrent for some local guides to feign ignorance of its whereabouts when quizzed by overenthusiastic tourists.

Such amnesia is common in a part of the world that has grown weary of dwelling upon its past. After decades of war and deprivation, the former colonies of IndoChina have each emerged, in very distinct ways, as prime tourist destinations. In Vietnam, there is a sense of lightning progress and blockbusting attractions, such as the limestone karst-studded wonderland of Halong Bay. In Cambodia, the darkness of the recent past is being countered by increased investment and growing confidence. Meanwhile, in sleepy Laos, a booming contingent of lotus-eaters from around the world have found themselves helplessly seduced by the countrys languorous charms. Vastly different as they may be, the three countries have more links than a traumatic history and optimism for the future. Until the cancer of conflict disfigured these locations, a king ruled each one. And today the royal legacy of each of these destinations endures as an echo of its former self.

16th to the 19th century, chose their capital wisely. On the banks of the effortlessly evocative Song Huong (Perfume River), they constructed a citadel and a lavish oriental wonderland of tombs, temples and palaces which stand as testimony both to the dynastys lofty sense of aesthetics and to its equally towering arrogance and disconnection with its humble subjects. When the French took over in 1885, they burnt libraries and looted palaces, but they also upped the ante even further by bequeathing the city with a leafy enclave of boulevards and grand architecture on the south side of the river. War with the Americans presented Hue with its toughest test yet. The city was practically levelled during the Tet Offensive of 1968 when approximately 10,000 perished in one of the most vicious battles of the war. Hue is a place, however, where beauty cannot be subjugated. While many of Vietnams ruined towns and cities re-emerged as odes to functional and faceless Communist reconstruction, Hue rose from the dust with its grandeur tarnished but largely intact. Despite the ravages of war and the inevitable post-war privations, its a wonder that so much has survived. Case in point is the La Residence Hotel & Spa, a 1930-built art deco palace that looks like something off South Beach in Miami, what with its bowed facade, long horizontal
beauty endures

Despite years of war and abject poverty in Vietnam, the city of Hue is a testament to the people's glorious past. Another cultural gem is the La Residence hotel (left), home of the French governor during colonial times.

lines and nautical flourishes. The property was restored in the middle of the last decade by French entrepreneurs and endures today as the citys most distinct accommodation. The views from the balconies are particularly spectacular with the immensity of the citys Citadel looming across the river. The Citadel wall presents an imposing barrier its blackened surface still pockmarked by bullet holes from the conflict that defined Vietnams 20th century. Beyond it, however, the phoenix that is Hues imperial heritage continues to take flight from the ashes. The Forbidden Purple City, a walled compound reserved for the personal use of the emperor and his concubines, remains a sad ruin, but showpiece attractions such as the The Mieu Temple Complex have been expertly restored. In this part of the old city, ornate gates depicting dragons, demons and battle scenes lead to towering temples and peaceful pagodas. The Citadel might be the most obvious reminder of Hues royal legacy, but other tokens of its past are myriad. Ho Quyen, the arena where the emperors used to watch duels between tigers and elephants, is bedraggled but still intact, while the magnificent tombs of the Nguyen kings are mind-blowing examples of the vainglorious flair of the rulers. All can be visited either independently by motorbike or on an organised bus tour from one of the many tour companies operating from Hue.

hue
Vietnam is a land of wordsmiths and there are few locations in this beautiful country that have not been celebrated in verse. It is arguable, however, whether anywhere is more worthy of poetry than the nations former imperial seat of power. The Nguyen lords, the feudal dynasty that dominated much of southern Vietnam from the
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stay at: La resIDenCe
Hues inherent elegance is showcased at La Residence, which offers a fusion of Francophone colonial chic and Asian exoticism. Located on the southern bank of the evocative Perfume River, this former residence of the French governor is one of the finest examples of art deco architecture in the tropics. Inside it is equally resplendent. Two additional wings were added to the original mansion in 2005, and the renovation has given added grandeur to the hotels already heady Indochinese ambience. www.la-residence-hue.com

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phnom penh
The sight of the Royal Palace in Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia, is one that could soften even the hardest of hearts. Once considered the loveliest French-built city in IndoChina, the Pearl of Asia was emptied out during the reign of the Khmer Rouge and then suffered in the aftermath as refugees from Cambodias long civil war flocked to the city. However, the vast compound of golden-spired temples and grand pavilions has stood as a replenishing source of national pride in the most desperate of times. The city only became the royal seat of power in the mid-19th century when King Norodom relocated from the former capital of Oudong and ordered the construction of the Royal Palace complex. During the French colonial period, the Cambodian kings were largely impotent their benevolent presence helping to douse the flames of nationalism. The ascent of King Norodom Sihanouk to the throne and the collapse of colonial power, however, heralded a new era of uncertainty. Over the next 50 years Sihanouk led his country to independence, but was deposed by a US-backed coup during the Vietnam War in

which Cambodia was inexorably embroiled. During the Khmer Rouge era he was reinstated as a figurehead and kept under house arrest in the palace. When the Vietnamese ousted Pol Pot, he was forced into exile for over a decade before eventually returning to throne in 1993. These days Sihanouks eldest son, Norodom Sihamoni, occupies the throne but the real power is wielded by prime minister Hun Sen. Amid the changes, the Royal Palace provides historical context. The ideal time to visit is late afternoon when the tourist stragglers are heading for the exit and the sinking sun imbues the complex with an ethereal, almost magical, russet glow. Southeast Asia is not short on temples, of course, but these ones are special. Covering an area of 174,870 square metres, the vast compound is ornamented by temples built in classic Khmer style, stupas, towering golden spires and mural paintings. Other palace attractions include the Silver Pagoda, the floor of which is constructed from 5,000 silver blocks; the Chan Chaya Pavilion built for classical Cambodian dance performances; and the Napoleon III Pavilion offered to King Norodom by Queen Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III. It is a place that rewards leisurely investigation of its hidden corners. Once that is done, climb the stairs to the

stay at: soFIteL Phnom Penh Phokeethra

The first five star hotel to open in Phnom Penh in over a decade, this outpost of the French chain is suitably classy. Conveniently situated by the river, it is convenient for all the citys top attractions while maintaining a secluded feel ideal for relaxation purposes. The hotels design fuses traditional Khmer elements with modern touches while the interior, the plush rooms and the range of top-end restaurants are as luxurious as you might expect. www.sofitel.com

a Gilded Past

Phnom Penh is rising from the postKhmer Rouge ashes to flaunt its cultural treasures, such as the Royal Palace, alongside a chic new personality, as epitomised by the Sofitel Phnom Penh Phokeethra (left).

breathtaking Throne Hall still used today for coronations and royal weddings and watch the last rays of the day reflect on the river. Phnom Penh at peace is something to be savoured. While Phnom Penhs royal heritage may be largely symbolic, the presence of the palace provides a stabilising focus for pride in a city that is evolving as fast as any in the region. The riverside area is a case in point. Its sleek new bars, boutique hotels and restaurants offer a glimpse into the future while touts, beggars and limbless land-mine victims are a reminder of where Cambodia has been. For the best experience of this part of the city, grab yourself a pew with a view at the famous Foreign Correspondents Club and watch the Tonle Sap meander its way towards its confluence with the Mekong while nursing an icy bottle of Angkor Beer.
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luang prabang
Are we nearly there yet, mewls the sizeable western lady at her guide as she hits the end of the first flight of stairs that scale Phu Si. Up ahead of her, a procession of tourists is beating a similarly halting path in the scorching heat up the 100m-high hill, which dominates what passes for a downtown in Luang Prabang, the royal capital of Laos. A dripping wet shirt and a face saturated by a thick sheen of sweat are a small price to pay, however, for the prize that waits at the top.

If awards were handed out for the most beautiful cities on the planet then Luang Prabang would be fighting out with heavyweights such as Rio de Janeiro and Cape Town, and the sunset vista from Phu Sis crown is one of the most arresting sights in town. From here the valley unfolds like an emerald blanket towards the verdant mountains in the distance. Most visitors take in the view at sunset, watching the light reflect upon the Nam Khan River before descending back into the melee of the night market to catch a bite to eat. Its almost impossible to quibble with Luang Prabangs status as the premier tourist spot in Laos. The city delivers in pretty much every area. Saffron-robed monks and impossibly ornate temples such as Wat Xieng Thong offer spiritual solace, lavish hotels such as Villa Maly and chic eateries such as Tamarind up the ante in the comfort stakes, while the string of open-air bars that line the Mekong River offer cold beer and cheap cocktails in a setting that bypasses convivial and moves directly to jaw-dropping in the very best of ways.

The royal heritage here has been less impacted by the tumultuous events of the late 20th century than in IndoChinas other historical seats of monarchical power. Although the royal family was summarily deposed by the communist Pathet Lao movement in the countrys 1975 revolution, their palace and its surrounding gleaming temples remain mercifully intact although most Lao wont enter the palace after dark, believing it to be haunted by the restless spirits of its former regal residents. The only quibble you could possibly have with the town is that it may have sacrificed a little bit of its soul in exchange for its worldwide fame. The unvarnished Luang Prabang is never far away, however. You just need to know where to look for it. A good place to start is the night market where quintessential Lao dishes such as ping paa (grilled fish), larb (meat salad with mint), tam mak hoong (spicy papaya salad) and sticky rice are served up at criminally low prices. A banquet fit for a king in a city that has maintained its regal poise long after the departure of its royalty.
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stay at: VILLa maLy

Built by the grandson of a Lao king, this charming boutique option is a fitting base from which to explore the former royal capital. Beautifully realised rooms with period touches and modern amenities surround a gorgeous tropical garden and a generously sized outdoor pool. Luang Prabang is one of the most walkable cities in Asia and the hotels central location makes it a convenient place to stroll back to after a days sightseeing or a night drinking cocktails by the Mekong River. www.villa-maly.com

Realm of Peace

Luang Prabang, which was the least war-torn of the IndoChinese cities, maintains a sense of meditative tranquility at its royal quarters as well as in hotels such as Villa Maly (right).

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