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Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis

Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // vojatriks@yahoo.com 1


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Technology of knitting with the
theoretical
experimental and analysis




Vojislav R. Gligorijevic






Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // vojatriks@yahoo.com 2



CIP -
,

677.025

GLIGORIJEVI, Vojislav R., 1942-
Tehnology of Knitting with the Theoretical
Experimental and Analysis : #a #comprehensive
handbook and practical guide / Vojislav R.
Gligorijevic. - 1st ed. in English. -
Leskovac : V. Gligorijevi, 2011 (Beograd :
Nova kola). - 539 str. : ilustr. ; 30 cm

Tira 200. - The Author: str. 6. -
Bibliografija: str. 534-538.

ISBN 978-86-914211-3-7

a) -
COBISS.SR-ID 185446412

















Leskovac, 2011/ Serbia


Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // vojatriks@yahoo.com 3
















Publisher : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, Leskovac
Editor : Vladimir V. Gligorijevic

Reviewer : prof.dr. Kostadinka Ljapcheva, Faculty
of Technology and Metallurgy, Skopje
Word processing : Prof.dr Vojislav R. Gligorijevic
Cover Design : Prof.dr Vojislav R. Gligorijevic
Circulation : 200






















Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // vojatriks@yahoo.com 4






















Technology of knitting with the
theoretical
experimental and analysis






















Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // vojatriks@yahoo.com 5













Technology of knitting with the
theoretical
experimental and analysis

A comprehensive handbook and
practical guide


First edition in English






Vojislav R. Gligorijevic















Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // vojatriks@yahoo.com 6






















To my wife Zdenka Elizabeta Gligorijevic

with children and grandchildren






















Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // vojatriks@yahoo.com 7


The Author
Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor, was born on 10 January 1942. in Pecenjevce, where
he finished elementary school. Textile school in Leskovac, as the first generation of
knitwears, completed in 1961. And thereafter, the Higher Technical School of textile
mechanical direction in Leskovac. Since 1967. to 1981. he worked as a teacher of
knitting in the textile center of the school in Leskovac. With work, studying at the Faculty
of Technology and Metallurgy in Skopje, the textile department, where the field of
knitting and graduated from the 1973rd In the fall of the 1981st was admitted to the
Faculty of Technology in Leskovac to the case of knitting technology, as a teaching
assistant. Shortly thereafter the Department of Textile Technology, Textile Engineering in
Ljubljana enrolled postgraduate master's degree in the 1986th on Influence processes
dynamic characteristics in the braking mechanisms horizontal stripes twists .
After several published articles, his Ph.D. from the University of Ljubljana, in 1990 on
" Influence of dynamics and friction compensation in the thread and knitting zone on the
structure twists", and named Doctor textile technological sciences.
To confirm the assumption, V. Gligorijevi three sensors constructed and installed in
production machines. With sensors and other equipment is determined based on the
analysis of dependence between the forces and compensation in the knitting zone at
different stages of creating loops and loops.
Installation of sensors is an innovation in the research stage. With a dynamic view is
obtained by comparing the experimental process of differential equations obtained in
studies of this type of innovation.
The research not only theoretical value but also useful as sensors can be adapted to any
type of warp committed.
As an author he wrote a number of scripts and books on knitting, a number of scientific
papers in national and international journals, which are listed in the SCI. All research
papers relate to knitting, and his preoccupation with the scientific interest is related to the
study of dynamics of the process of knitting yarn. The works were systematically and
scientifically handled, so as to present an introduction to the further development of
problems in this area.




Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // vojatriks@yahoo.com 8

Preface

Scientific-technical revolution, which is implemented in all areas of science and
technology, increasing the role of technology in the production process knitwear
production.
Continuous improvement of methods and progressive development of knitting
techniques to produce knitwear (twists) have led to high levels of technological
development, which also shows in production, which significantly exceeded the
productivity of other modern technologies.
The aim of this textbook is to be combined in one volume the basic principles and
principles of knitting in the transverse and longitudinal direction (from the basics of
knitting) as an important sector in textile technology. Inclusion of historical development
and different types of machines, their principles and mechanisms, as well as making the
yarn products, make this textbook as acceptable, particularly suitable for professionals in
this field who wish to expand their knowledge and understanding of knitting.
The textbook "Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis" is
based on the latest achievements of science and practice in the scientific,
methodological and pedagogical terms in the field of knitwear production in order to get
a newer and more efficient ways to create loops and the criteria for further development
of existing techniques of knitwear in the future with the use of microprocessor control
and the development of knitting in the scientific sense.
In the introductory part of the book are given general information about the
characteristics of the knitting structure of knitted fabrics and their determination. By type
of weave structures are given interlacement, graphics and technical design cartridges
right-left, left-right, left-right cross-left-interlock and interlacement woven into the left
transverse and longitudinal direction.

Especially designed as an irregular interlacement Jacquard as tri-color and the colors
and types of raw imagery to knitwear color patterns.
The analysis of the process of creating a loop with the principles of knitting to all the
knitting machines and special operations half loop the application of needles and hooks
newly created position of loops and the change in length half loop yarn in the loop. They
discussed the basic principles of connecting units (loops) in the knitting for knitting, weft
straight, circular knitting weft and on the way to the analysis and design activities, and
any move in their movement in the process of knitting through the Euler and Lagrange
coordinates of the arc with the elements of the theory of surfaces.

In other chapters, or modules, provides an analysis and design activities or the yarn
and knitting process, special emphasis was paid to the amplitude of oscillation exceeds
the counter trade knit zone and in the process of knitting with the frequency of
oscillations in the function of yarn tension and determination of the suspended period of
one cycle at wrap knitting connection with the mutual forces acting in the loop tensile
knitwear and withdrawal.
Considered the empirical formula for moving different types of needles in the process
of taking the cross, the movement of the working of flat, circular knitting machines and
on.
Special chapter, different ways of creating depth weft is of particular importance for
weft basic yarn and stuffed in the process of weft interlacement, knit on footer
interlacement, making curtains and lace and knitted interlacement Jacquard basis.
Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // vojatriks@yahoo.com 9

Particular attention is given, where possible stress, the rules and basic principles,
which are less likely to change drastically in the later development of technologies.
The textbook can also serve as a handy reference for studio work and business
purposes.

This first edition in English in Serbia and former Yugoslavia, including the
development of electronic control and selection of needles and other mechanisms of
cross-woven and knitted knitwear in the knitting basics. Basic software programming is
covered with special reference design and fully integrated knitting garments.
I am especially pleased that this textbook used in education, industry and commerce
worldwide.

Leskovac, 2011. Vojislav R. Gligorijevic
Serbia































Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // vojatriks@yahoo.com 10



1. Introduction to the history of knitting
1.1 Evolution of textiles

Man is the first self-made clothing from animal skins which he knew to sift through the
needle of animal bones. Soon they began to think of fibrous material for making textile
knitwear, encouraged by the experience acquired by interweaving branches, leaves, and
grasses in the development of primitive shelters. The word "Textiles" comes from the
Latin verb texere (sockets) - for the web, but today it is a general term applied to any
production of fiber, yarn and any appropriate fineness, I.e the length and thickness.


2. Start of hand knitting needles
2.1. Hand-knitting

The term "knitting" describes a technique of textile structures in the transverse and
vertical directions, made up of elementary units-loop, woven from yarns of a specific
length. The term "knitting" dates from the mid-sixteenth century. Hand knitting at first
been derived by using the fingers and practiced it for a long time before using the hand-
pin. Hand knitting was first recorded in religious paintings in 1350 in northern Italy, then
spread to the rest of Europe.
Figure 2.1 shows that Mary knitted clothes for Christ that dates back 1400 years
ago. This is the earliest recorded illustration of woven garments.
Unfortunately, Christ was wearing a dress that was probably the first time knitting
technique woven braids.
The technique of knitting caps established in Britain in 1424. In 1488 parliament
passed a decision on price controls knitted hats.
Fine Ladies wore silk stockings from the Queen Elizabeth around the year 1561 and
was so impressed by their elasticity, that I never wore coarse wool socks. In 1564 in
Italy, the first knitted socks from worsted wool yarn.















Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // vojatriks@yahoo.com 11




























Image 2.1. Mary Christ knit seamless ornament
Plaster Master paintings from the altar Bertram (1345-1415)
in the Church of Buxtehude. Museum in Hamburg.





















half loop
loop
Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // vojatriks@yahoo.com 12




A short history of knitting Closed loop knitting Closed loop knitting



Closed loop knitting

Figure 2.2. Hand-knitting with two and a needle

The history of the textile industry extends back at least as far as 7000BC when the
weaving of plant fibre was developed in Turkey. 7000 years later, at the start of the
Roman period, an extensive trade in textiles was established throughout the known
world with silk yarns and woven knit wears being shipped from China westward along
the silk road to Persia, the middle east and then to Rome and the west. Cotton yarns
and woven fabrics were shipped from India, across the Red Sea to Egypt and thence to
Europe.
In contrast to weaving, knitting is a relatively modern development. The need for
garments with good stretch properties to fit the feet, hands and head had led to the
development by 1000BC of knotting and looping techniques for knitwear and garment
manufacture which fall into the category of sprang or naal binding. These methods
produced good quality durable items but were slow and difficult to carry out.

Coarse woolen socks, woven by hand, were worn until 1600, but they were so fine,
and there was always striving to produce fine socks finer yarns.

2.2. Principles of hand knitting with two and a needle

Figure 2.2 presents the principle of hand knitting with two needles and two wooden
sticks that were rounded tip at one end. Loops occurs once completely separates from
the needle until the needle in contact with it is half loop. Many half loop called "old loop"
which is a misnomer, or rather inappropriate. With a needle A reserve has been created
Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // vojatriks@yahoo.com 13
half loops, and with a needle B, create a new half loop 2, which are threaded through the
first half loop.

The following knitting modules progress from the basic concepts necessary to
understand the essential features of knitting machines and knitted structures through to
the advanced knitting principles required to understand and influence the design and
development of sophisticated engineered technical products.

William Lee, figure 2.3 (ca. 1563-1614) was an English inventor who devised the first
stocking frame knitting machine in 1589, the only one in use for centuries. Its principle of
operation remains in use. Lee was born in the village of Calverton, Nottinghamshire. He
entered Christ's College, Cambridge in 1579 as a sizar and graduated from St. St.
John's College in the 1582 years.


2.3. Knitting mechanic

In 1589 English theologian William Lee came up with the idea to construct the first
mechanical machine for knitting socks. The idea had come by looking at his wife,
according to some records, the girl of his betrothed, to knit socks very slowly and
therefore does not pay enough attention to him. First came the idea to construct a
knitting needle with a hook, or as we now know as "needle peak" or "long needle hooks.

Figure 2.3. William Lee

Needle itself is imagined as a divine creature, and
is therefore given the names of its parts, "head
pins", "back", "foot", "body pins. In addition to
needles constructed is an important body of work
"platinum", it is actually a steel plate which allowed
the execution of certain operations in the knitting
process. And platinum has given the names of
"chest", "breast," neck "nose". In order to fully
perform the operations of knitting, has constructed
a rail with a smooth rounded edge on one end, by
which was carrying out an operation "pressing" or
compaction peaks- peaks in a hollow needle to
needle, which was later called in literature as a
groove pins or bowl, spoon, because it looked
like a dent on the lower work of a small spoon.

For his invention, in some versions, it was
acknowledged, but by that time the church was a
fierce attack, that his invention was then insulted the Church, and above all God, and
that's why he was banished from England.
However, one version says that his invention would not patented at the Queen
Elizabeth, which has not accepted his invention, because it would much affect many
factories for hand-knitting, which employed large numbers of people.
But through it all we have to say that his machine is used for almost 200 years. It was
one mechanical assembly that is moved by the arms and legs. The concept of her work
Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // vojatriks@yahoo.com 14
was so brilliant that, through the evolutionary process of technical adjustments, many
inventors around the world in the coming centuries, managed to construct industrial
knitting machines.

Unfortunately, there is no documentary information on Lee life.
Lee original machine was knitting coarse wool socks to eight needles per English Col
(25.4 mm), later to be able to knit socks and finer than silk, I installed the 16 needles at
once translated Col, although it is reported to incorporate 20 needles, and that after
1620 years.
Having not received a patent from Queen Elizabeth, Lee goes with his brother in
Paris, at the invitation of Henry IV, and in 1609 Lee opened a workshop for knitting
socks in Rouen and signed a partnership agreement with Pierre in the 1611
th
.
However, as the Henri IV killed 1610, Li had no protection and support and had his
brother to the machines and workers returned to England, and that William Lee died in
poverty in Paris, hiding from persecution. .

2.3.1. The principle of the machine Lee
The principle of the knitting machine Lee has remained to this day the same, and if you
were knitting machines perfected for centuries, even today. With his machine in the
beginning could be paid 500 to 600 loops per minute, and later was able to seamlessly
weaves of silk knitwear from 1000 to 1500 loops per minute. On the knitting machine and
toes to run basic business bodies machinery: the needle, platinum and presses.

Figure 2.4 shows Lee machine with a view of the knitting knitwear and looks
right. Before creating a first-order loop, it was necessary to manually wrap the tops of
peaks move to the front needles on the body of needles. After that we re taking a cross
in front of the tops of peaks of needles, yarn now Compressing the needle with the help
of platinum (sinker), thus creating a needle between the strands of a certain depth. This
process is called "of cooling" .With platinum locks of cooling intake below the tops of
peaks of needles in the head pins. With the help of press Compressing peaks -peaks
needles in the needle hole, called "boss", and then with platinum curls created with a
body shift overhead needles -needles and put on the same of cooling locks. In this way
we created the beginning of knitting. Procedure goes on by of cooling curls, now half
loops, together with a loop shift the needle body, repeat the procedure of taking the
cross, and the introduction of cooling locks in the head pins. Further procedure as
follows and at the very be ginning.

Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
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Figure 2.4. Lee machine elements for knitting yarn and looks right.




Figure 2.5. The appearance of the original left and machine knitting
garments made of silk right


Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // vojatriks@yahoo.com 16
Figure 2.5 shows Lee machine perfected and finer silk knitting socks and other
garments.
Figure 2.6 (a-c) is shown with photographs of the process of knitting the Lee machine.
Half loop (a) is in the body of the needle kept neck plate (b), it is the lock of which we
created in the beginning of the wrapping yarn needle. We do new installation yarn (c)
before the needle peaks -peaks (d).

Figure 2.6-b shows the moment when the platinum perform compaction yarn between
needles, or create of cooling locks with the help of the nose plate (s), then follows the
forward movement of the peaks of platinum peaks and needles through the chest of
cooling platinum locks (f) enter below the tops of peaks needles in the head
pins. Platinum is going back (arrow) and also lifted upward (arrow).

Figure 2.6-c shows the moment when his chest platinum (h) supports bringing half
loops (a) the tops of peaks in front of the needles, which immediately presses (g)
compressing the peaks of peaks in the hollow needle on a pin-point patella. Same
platinum moving upwards (arrow ). Platinum and further promote the transfer of his chest
over his head half loop needles once the press is pulled back, platinum (sinker) is also at
the same time pulling down (arrow). Now the process is the principle of knitting repeats.
This who invented William Lee, and that he still is today. I his if this epochal discovery,
initially did not receive any recognition, and Queen Elizabeth refused his patent, alleged
that the machine could only rough to knit wool socks. You re seeking a patent for a much
finer machine with 20 needles in one English-Col, with which he was able to fine-knit
women's stockings of silk, but the Queen and refused to accept a patent for a reason
that would jeopardize the work of the former industry of hand-knitting socks.


a)
Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // vojatriks@yahoo.com 17

b) c)
Figure 2.6. Lee principle knitting

Figure 2.7. shows the deformed woven fabric of the month (Photo credit NASA)
Photo taken during the Apollo 12th Shows the deformed woven antenna that was
sending television pictures back to Earth. The antenna is knited from gold metallic yarns
(Time, July 7, 1969, 34-7).

Unique structure of the loop knitting provides an opportunity:
use the minimum number of yarn;
easy connection switch from one loop to another under a certain tension;
transfer loops from one needle to another;
knitting fabric one side with one party as a person and another as are verse
double-knit face and reverse;
increase or decrease the number of loops in the width and depth;
knitting with different species composition to the yarn in knitting.
Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // vojatriks@yahoo.com 18


Figure 2.7. Apollo 12 landing on the ground after the appearance of
deformed knitted dish of gold plated wire yarn


The unique properties of knitted structures provide the ability to produce knitted items
as textiles, while retaining a traditional market for making sweaters, socks, tricot knitwear
,underwear, lace and more


3. Historical background and criteria for further
development of knitting techniques, and technology

History of knitting is compared with existing long history of weaving, much younger, from
which it can make a conclusion that the transition to the hand-made textile knit wears
from yarns interlaced with the loops to the next level of development of technical
creativity of man, what is needed elemental connection with the right angle of the two
systems of yarn in the fabric.

In table 3.1 show that the basic findings in the field of methods and basic technical
principles of machine-made knitwear have been discovered over the past 400 years.
Continuous improvement of methods and progressive development of manufacturing
techniques for making twists have led to high levels of technological development, which
also shows in the manufacture, which significantly exceeded the modern productivity in
Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // vojatriks@yahoo.com 19
weaving.
The fact that with time the invention of cooling the basis knitted knitting and methods
for making cloth did not make any new ways of making loops, and all scientific and
technical development of knitting technology is based on the constant improvement of
these methods, allows to ask the following questions:

Can occur in the future a new, more efficient way to create a loop?

What are the important criteria for further development of existing
knitwear techniques ?

Scientific answer to the first question can be given based on logical and analytical
thinking.
Analysis of all known methods for making cloth shows that in any event must meet
two basic conditions (logical conditions):

The existence of at least one, the system of yarn;
The existence of a technical element to create the loop (authorities to create loop-pin).

The system of yarn - and can not be so cross, and longitudinal (a logical variable).
Organ systems to create a loop running motion is relative half loops hanging on them,
where during one cycle of creating loops provide two extreme positions (end position).
This relative motion may be made or all authorities to create a loop at the same
time or each body separately (second logical variable). Further, each body to create the
loop (needle) along with the corresponding subsidiary organs (e.g. platinum), is required
to intercept the appropriate form of yarn loops. Creating curved parts at the same
time can only happen to the merger with half loop (third logical variable).

Table 3.1
Time, place Events or discoveries
6.c., Egypt Hand Knitting / discovery during excavation.
13.c.,
Spain,
Italy straight hand knitting on two needles are used as a ploy.
16.c.,
Switzerland
Hand knitting for five needle / knitting in the round.
1560.y.,
Europe
On the market first suture less socks. Appears in new trades for
men.
England,
France,
Germany
Are created facilities for knitting socks.

1589.y.,
England
William Lee finds of cooling hand loom and
pointed needle. Original name:
STOCKING Knitting loom or frame. This has made a step towards
mechanization of making socks.
1758.y.,
England
J.Strut creates an additional device for making of weft
twists with two persons on a flat machine.
1768.y., Mr,
II- nd half
Crane finds Manual Elementary Knitting loom. Set up the main shaft
of cooling bars, crossing the of weft machine.
1791.y., Dawson creates a device for turning guide (pitting needle). This led
Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // vojatriks@yahoo.com 20
England to a mechanical Elementary knitting looms.
1798.y.,
France
De-Croix reveals first patents on the crown of weft loom.
1805.y.,
Germany
Carl Christian Langsdorf, a professor of mathematics and
Johann Michael Wassermann (University of In contrast to
weaving, knitting is a relatively modern development. The need for
garments with good stretch properties to fit the feet, hands and
head had led to the development by 1000BC of knotting and
looping techniques for knitwear and garment manufacture which fall
into the category of sprang or naal binding. These methods
produced good quality durable items but were slow and difficult to
carry out.
Erlangen) issued the first complete description of the hosiery-
knitting looms and technological process of making socks.
1853.y.,
France
Patent Creation circular looms (circular of cooling machine
knitting right-right).
1856.y.,
England
Townsend finds a latch needle.
1859.,y,
Germany
Use of the latch needle and vertical arrangement in Kettenstuhl
Bezeichnung: Raschel machine
1860-
1864.y.,
England
W. Cotton gets a patent on a mechanical loom weft straight with
vertically distributed bearing needle, low-mounted main
shaft and transmission mechanisms. This type of structure brings
the highest industrial importance.
1857-
1870.y.,
Europe,
S. America
Various findings on the knitting machines, parts with a pointed
needle.
In 1863.y.,
U.S.
W. Lamb finds a fundamental principle of the mechanical latch
knitting needles using portable eccentrics. Schedule bearing
needle in the form of the roof.
1865.y.,
England
Clay finds two-headed latch pin, a prerequisite for making left and
left twists.
1866.y.,
U.S.
Patent issuing on the Mac Nary circular knitting machines with the
inclusion of ways of making the top five (in distributing walk).
1878.y.,
England
Griswold introduced a needle plate (Flattened) as the second
bearing needle circular knitting machines.


1881.y.,
Germany

Durand finds first-tubular warp around the needle.
1886; Germany Beyer finds a way automatic addition and
subtraction using transmission half loops in the flat knitting
machine.
1900.y.,
Germany
H. Stoll elaborates on the basic technical conditions for production
of flat knitting machines for knitting left-left.
1910.y.,
England
Spiers, Erfinder finds left-left circular knitting machines for knitting
with two faces.
Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // vojatriks@yahoo.com 21
1949.y.,
West
Germany
H. Mauersberger patented Knitting way "Malimo" that occurs
starting point for creating knitting sewing techniques and thus the
very principle of interference weft yarn all over the working width
elementary knitting machines.

Table 3.2

VariantV4



Variables content



1. logical variable






System of transverse yarns p

2. logical variable

At the same time moving body
relative to the knitting half loops q

3. logical variable
Creating bent parts during
the merger with
half loops r (making a new
record interlaced)


If you have a system of transverse movement of knitting yarn written authority relatively
half loops happening at the same time q, then the creation of bent parts may arise during
the merger, it seems the rule is complex opposite position,

(pq) r
(rq) r
(pq) r (3.1)

It is known that the law of cooling off at the same time creating a curved parts of the
whole working width, given a system of transverse yarns, ie.yarn, it can lead to the
knitting system on one side and the theoretical values of the variables, the V4 variant at
each site to create loops must be simultaneously over the entire working width with
equal quantities.
Accordingly, the rule of formal logic from (p ) q r (V1) can come to the
conclusion that these conclusions (p ) q p i (p ) q q. are equally
characterized by a combination of V8 and V3 variants that can also be regarded as
technically attainable. Consistent with this, after the formal logical testing, technical
variant V4 waste. In a sample graphic is clearly shown in the legality of the complex
opposite position: impossible variants V4 by parts also leads to possible variants V1,
Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
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V3, V8 and only to them. .
The final rule is (p ) q r the same, it does not work, also yarn during the creation
of curved parts is not added. The need for yarn in this case arises from the properties of
materials. This is possible when processing ductility synthetic fibers. Due to technical
problems associated with this variant (uniformity, coloration differences, etc.). Its
manufacturing application is required and obviously is limited (e.g. the manufacture of
fine hosiery). Further calculation of these options is not recommended.

For the V6 variant is characterized by the following:

Variant V6 Content variables
1.logical variable system of transverse yarns
2.logical variable Continuous
knitting body movement relative half
loops
3.logical variable Creating bent parts
of the union with half loops

If you have a system of longitudinal yarns (p), then from a technological standpoint
there is no doubt in relation to the values of two other variables. In principle it is a
possibility of sequential (q) or simultaneous (q) the movement of needles, or bent half
loops and creating parts to or during the merger (r) ie. each pin corresponds to your
yarn. In this way, as the basis Knitting way to create a loop expression is true;

p(q q)(r r) )= p (3.2)

In this way, the question of technical feasibility variant V6 and V7 in principle have been
resolved.
Further logical analysis leads to the conclusion that the expression pq r can be
determined using the most effective, with the technical and economic point of view, a
variant of Elementary knitting ways, i.e. Simultaneity relative motion and overlap with the
time of creating curved parts and connections, marking the highest level of utilization of
time the process of creating a basic loop to achieve operating speeds. Then, the
technical realization of variant V6 and V7 always be accompanied by low
performance. Because of this scientific research ways to create loop variants that were
found by theory show is also superfluous.
We should point out that at the time of the invention weft, knitting and basic knitting
ways to create loops were issued patents for "the discovery of variants to create loops,
formed at a given theoretical analysis.
From an economic point of view the development of knitwear techniques, on the one
hand are always determined purely technical and technological capabilities increase
productivity knitting machines, and on the other hand, great importance has stimulated
the ability of product design, keeping in mind the properties of chemical fibers, including
the possibility of sampling.
When further increasing the productivity of knitting machines is taken into account the
number of basic criteria.
In flat of cooling machine purely 2 / 3 of time belongs to the process of creating a loop,
and the technological requirements go only one taking the yarn and making curved parts
(weft). For a walk on cam of cooling working width creates only one line of bent parts of
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the yarn (analogous to the ranks of the loop). The principle is interrupted.
No matter, work on a flat of cooling machine is rational (for some products the most
rational) in comparison with other methods of technology as well as the treatment of
expensive fiber, this is taken into account as materialized labor (raw materials economy).
The principle of flat knitting machine is also interrupted. Uneconomic by the size,
symmetrical structures knitting lock system, and so | is also small in comparison with the
width bearing needle, the number of systems (which will reduce downtime crankshaft)
remains an essential objective limits productivity. If the interrupter does not oversee the
system of movement, it can significantly hinder productivity flat knitting machines. Flat
knitting machines with overhead camshaft (heads) that move along the oval orbit at the
present time in terms of withdrawal of the two twists are equipped with 14 or 15 a
systemic workers. Movement of the crankshaft continuously in one direction along the
ellipse. In this way the machines per unit time creates 3-4 times the number of rows of
loops rather than straight knitting machines with three or two knitting systems.
Their productivity is lower than the productivity of circular knitting machines for knitting
flat. Only circular knitting machines with larger diameter piece of knitwear products in
unit time (compared with a simple weave netting) are almost double or three times the
amount of twists.
Boundaries to increase productivity circular knitting machines smaller and larger
diameters can be accurately determined. As the main problem occurs breaking the head
of needles, high speed turns, and also break the yarn primarily due to its lack of
uniformity.
Fractures of the head of needles that are in the final state associated with the
individual initiating needles, caused by the shock loading of needles because of a
greater inclination angle and rotation frequency (frequencies), leading to increased
impact loads. However, on the other hand, it appears the starting point for increasing the
productivity of knitting machines.
With increasing tilt angle lock, is possible to increase the number of knitting systems
that are deployed in volume machines. At the same quality fabric you can control really
weakening energy losses and capital investment for a Knitting system, as well as
increasing feedback from the sample.
Increasing productivity is a disproportionate increase in the number of end systems. For
this reason, manufacturers of knitting machines effort is directed to substantially increase
the speed of rotation. The degree of depreciation is reduced simultaneously with
increasing productivity. In this way, the target of research systems needle-knitting
bearing needle -lock, is aimed at increasing the number of knitting systems and the
speed of rotation, i.e. there can be no real solutions that allow derogations from the
principle of mechanical initiation tongue-flower needles.

Increase productivity Elementary knitting machines primarily associated with
minimized operating parts, organs to create a loop and the application of curvilinear
mechanisms for implementation of schemes of work are given technology. It is
necessary to use scientific methods to solve the problem of dynamic machines. Is
achieved by taking into account the technical, technological conditions, operating speeds
Elementary knitting machines, but now stands out as a major issue loud noise that
occurs in part the difficulty in the practical application of these operating speeds. So it's
very important way of increasing productivity Elementary knitting machines, but it
increases the width of your knitting. Working speed is slightly lowered at the same time.

With increasing operating speeds of special importance is given to bringing the yarn
with a minimum load of yarn, for all groups of machines. For making knitwear
Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
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characterized by the application of the control and regulation techniques in various
systems add yarn, sampling and giving form.

Comparison of e-governance, sampling machines and groups of machines for
processing samples in the preparatory department to making constant memory device
with which information can be kept in the machine, there is still a first-importance. For
this example shows that the question on the application of technical means should be
solved not only from the standpoint of the very modern technical capabilities, but also
from the standpoint of technical and economic benefits and necessity.
Thanks to the simple structure of knitting getting basic properties, such as good
adhesion, elasticity and porosity.
In connection with the expansion of production of chemical fiber, initiated the work
focused on creating new products. Thanks to him, came the possibility of inserting twists
in almost all fields, which were used fabrics.
By tradition, the area of application of knitwear production (hosiery, top knitwear,
underwear) remains as before. Its range is extended for a short time due to the
introduction textured polyamide and polyester yarn, and also spinned yarns from any
pure chemical fiber or with its hint (especially polyvinylidene, polyacrylic and polyester
fiber). Such qualities such as convenience of wearing, the ease of cultivating, shape
stability, which is in the clothes of any such exhibits as a great suit with the performance
characteristics of fabrics, appear as the main cause of population increase in demand for
contemporary
Area everyday textile knitwear Elementary knitting production (including production
Rachel machine) is now almost completely eclipsed other ways of making (curtains,
gardini, lace and so on).
Advantage in connection with the introduction of stable chemical or by color and high
productivity Elementary knitting production played a decisive role in breaking the
knitwear in the areas former traditional weaving. In the increasingly cloth made of
circular knitting machines replaced woven materials for coating furniture, walls, and also
for heavy blankets. Their advantage, not only in comparison with fabrics, but also in
comparison with the base knitting knitwear, partly reflected in the resilience and partly in
the sample means.
Daily production of textiles in general, can be considered as an area that is rapidly
developing as a future area of application of knitwear. From the point of view of
prospective applications running in the world, more work related to determining the
possibility of using knitted fabrics for technical purposes. This area should be considered
as an area with the greatest prospects.
The worldwide trend is seen the division or a complete replacement for the upper
fabric clothing (ensembles, jackets, shirts, ladies blouses, skirts, etc..) Knitwear. No
doubt this is a scientific-technological progress in a given area, as witnessed by a few
examples:
-Improving the fineness of machines in the group circular knitting machine large diameter
and the basics of knitting machines;
-Obtaining large quantities of chemical or, in particular polymer, with some physical-
chemical properties and also the processing of yarn and yarn combination;
-Creating a large number of special knitted knit, and the laying in order to obtain a stable
form of twists and with a coefficient of fullness, Creating a specific processing technology
and machine processing plants.
In addition to women's and children's upper garment, as well as decorative (formal) and
different production clothing made from knitwear takes up a large part. The advantage of
knitwear and now stimulates the development of consumption and demand. The
Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
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tendency of development of the increase in product placement knitwear light (shirts,
blouses, etc.).For their production are used circular machine machines large diameter of
the right-left, knitting, machine interlock circular machine large diameter (E.g, fineness
32.... 50E), as well as circular knitting machines of large diameter for the right-right
knitting.
The length of processed yarn for knitting a certain length and width is significantly
higher than those for fabrics of the same length and width. Given parameters to create
the loop determine the exact length of yarn in the loop, the same spatial arrangement of
parts obtained height and width is very variable due to the effects of different forces.
Therefore, there is increased extensibility twists, which can be reduced by changing the
length of the loop for a given length or the relative spread of knitwear knit or interference
in the longitudinal or transverse (or both of the latter) additional yarn, which does not
participate in the creation of loops, and the action of the force take the load in the first
place. These studies in conjunction with the development of knitwear which compete for
their properties to knitwear resulting from these two ways of designing knitted knit. In the
design of a very important share of such qualities as a closed surface (a characteristic of
knit wears), resistance to stretching and a typical knitwear - engraving and draping.
High productivity in making knitwear has been and remains the basic criterion of
similar development. It appears as a logical basis for the lack of any focused research
development after making fabric from knitwear like "characteristics with the exception of
making some products that use textured or to obtain the effects of elastic
knitwear. Turning to both basic research capabilities in the direction of weave knitwear
design can make a conclusion that the properties of knitted knit wears approximate
characteristics, and the better succeed in inserting into the longitudinal and transverse
Mesh textile yarns, when it is according to figures approaching the knitwear are not only
indicators of strain, but also the surface structure, engraved and rough, draped. Options
for this mode of production twists are usually less than Elementary knitting ways. In
knitting of production method on circular machines of large diameter can be:

Reduce the length of the processed yarn to the relative width of the knitwear due to
the high fineness machines and combined elements interlaced - loops and traps, with a
minimum length of yarn in comparison to the yarns in the knitwear is not achieved and,
Knit in the direction of rows and rows loops additional yarn as weft or base.
Thanks to the application or synthetic (E.g polyester) and their use, certain features may
affect the physical and mechanical properties and the structure of the fabric and if they
are in this case, the optimal parameters.
Particularly wide and ending in the processing of knitted fabrics made of special yarns. In
this case, can be obtained for example. Mesh in the form of cloth that can be done only
by using transverse and longitudinal weft.
Modified for all kinds of twists that do not have specified a general rule applies -
considered by netting. Its use for products that are primarily made only from the
knitwear, does not lead to the obtaining of similar products, appear, in newer and newer
products that take their place along with the cloth.

The wide possibility of producing knitted knit wears like can be realized using the
Elementary knitting ways of knitting. In warp knitting is possible additional processing
warp yarns that are pre-focused - we place them just as the knitwear. Junction with yarn
passing under the needle and yarn to combine (link) weft, it is possible to get a Mesh
that has similarities with the external knitwear and physical-mechanical properties, and
also in comparison with the indicators of fabric, and drapery engraving.
Equally all this much speed decreases Elementary knitting machines. In addition, the
Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
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characteristics of the structure caused by the increased expense of materials to achieve
the characteristics of compliance and fullness as the knitwear. Also it should be noted
that in producing large quantities of metric material, the basis knitting machines from an
economic point of view have greater opportunities than circular knitting machines of
large diameter and weaving looms, this is explained by simpler methods of sampling and
the use of relatively simple technical means to make the warp exceeds the production
knitwear of everyday production of elegant ladies, men and children clothing.
In general it should be noted that the design and finishing knitwear are hiding inside the
many opportunities that lead to the further dissemination of twists in all areas of use of
textiles.
There is a perception that all measures aimed at making cloth like fabric lead to the
development of promising new range of clothing in addition to the assortment of apparel
fabrics. The question about this or any other part of the assortment in the general range
of external conditions solved with training mode. It is possible, too, assumed that the
knitwear production method and manner of weaving and further develop and positively
affect each other.
Figure 3.1 shows the formal-logical ways of knitting views


Figure 3.1. Formal-logical ways of knitting views

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4. Basic information about the knitting

K n I t w e a r the textile product composed of loops intertwined with each other in a
certain order.
K n I t w e a r made weft and knitting method differs from the geometric knitwear
interlaced yarn. The longer the yarn knitwear 4.1 (base) is intertwined cross 2 (weft) at
right angles (Figure 4.1,a). The knitwear is obtained by alternating pulling yarn weft
yarns with base divided into two equal or unequal parts by the number depending on the
type weave. Knitwear is characterized by closed area, as well as adequate mechanical
properties and extensibility, which correspond to characteristics processed yarn. Figure
4.1,b shows the distribution of neighboring warp or weft yarn in the longitudinal
fullness of knitwear, which can be less than, equal to or greater than 100%. Figure 4.2
shows the pattern of action and force warp weft yarn cotton fabric under load, and b-
towards the base, c-in weft direction. When calculating the breaking load of fabrics is
based geometric patterns linking structure (Figure 4.2) taking into account the uneven
tension wires near strain fabric.

K n i t w e a r obtained by creating a loop from yarn into intertwined loops (Figure
4.3). It is for making knitting requires only one system of yarn (a) which interfere with
cross-loop (b) or system longitudinal yarns (c and d). Different transformation basic knit
come to constructive variants, which provide ample opportunities for qualitative modificat
ive modifications, and reveal a greater area of application.
Mesh for unlike knitwear. has an open area and the mechanical action has a much
greater degree and Curtains (Figure 4.4) and tulle, lace, braid, fishing net, yarn produced
by a single systems go at length, and cross another two or three of the third systems are
As signed an angle of 45 .
From the structure and characteristics of mechanical stretching indicate a good, healit
hy quality that indicates the usefulness of knitted apparel twists. Relative extensibility
and open structure condition ability to maintain good heat knitting, not interfere with the
necessary heat transfer and do not cause increased sweating.

a) b) c)

1 2
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d)

Figure 4 1. Fabric appearance and with the scheme of basic fabric weave (a)
linen (shown by dashes) and the scheme of arrangement or adjacent
warp weft yarn fabrics in the longitudinal fullness (b) less, equal to or greater than 100%
of the c- Scheme of the elementary unit of knitwear and curtain look knitwear -d

Figure 4.2. The scheme forces acting on the weft yarn warp (a) , and b-in the direction
of the warps, c-in weft direction

When connecting structure of a certain quality knitwear with a choice of fiber
the corresponding appears pleasant feeling of comfort in the process of exploitation. By
creating a knitwear by connecting bent yarn, provides the obvious little creasing knitted
products, while using the same raw materials less crowded than woven. Thus, knitting
meet the modern needs as supplies of clothing for work and relaxation, comfort in
wearing, heat retention, easily maintained.
Mesh, made of weft and knitting method, consists of overlapping elements. For the
initial part of the process of creating the loop (Figure 4.5) take the folded part of the yarn
(a). His connection with the following curved part of the first trap occurs (b) at the same
time the new curved part of the yarn produced half loop. Thanks to the addition of the
third bent part, comes from half loops loop (c), the last part of the bent yarn goes into
half loop, a trap is left without change.
Loop is a basic unit or element of interlaced yarn. Each initial order is an order of
twists traps, the last row is always row half loops. The horizontal arrangement of loops
called loop row, vertical-loop series (Figure 4.6).
In figure 4.7 shows the structure of the loop with the coupling elements with which the
loop is connected to the upper and lower lying loops. Every two binding elements create
Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
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overlapping unit, located in the hatched box. One unifying element consists of two points
of contact, which are black spots in the field. Size of the loop can explain the figure 7.

In addition to the loop as a basic element of cross-woven knitwear, and knitting and
the castle appears as an element in the interlaced yarn (Figure 4.9). On Figure 4.10 as
an element of over lapping occurs flotation, or succumbing passes over a series
of (elongated loop).Trap as an element of overlapping occurs and the Elementary knitted
knitwear (Figure 4.11and 4.12). The trap can be switched over two or more elongated
loops or strings (Figure 4.13). Right figure shows the flotation of the yarn under the two
loops or a series.


Figure 4.3. Forms of bent parts of the yarn to create knitwear from yarn systems
a system of cross-yarn, b-a system of longitudinal yarns; c-transverse interference
yarn, d-interference of longitudinal yarns



Figure 4.4. Curtain Figure 4.5. Overlapping elements
a- part-folded yarn (for hair);
b-trap (1) and half loop (2);
c-loop (3).
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Figure 4.6. Loop order (P-
horizontal; Loop sequence (PN vertical); left figure
shows the same loops in order



Figure 4.7.The construction of the loop Figure 4.8.The geometry of the loop



Figure 4.9. Trap as Figure 4.10. Flotation as Figure 4.11.The trap as a
knitwear element knitwear element fundamental basis of
knitted twists




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Figure 4.14 shows the loop on the right side (face) with bent pages 2 loops that are
located above the arch or a pinhead loop and left loop or reverse, where the needle
head protruding loops 1 and 3 over the page loop.
The upper arch is a pinhead, and the bottom three platinum head loop *.



Figure 4.12. Pitfalls in knitting: the left in an enclosed laying satin
and right in the weft laying



Figure 4.13. Trap over two elongated loops or two series, and right flotation
yarn under two elongated loops or two rows



* The needle and the platinum loop heads more details in the book of knittig technology
and by Vojislav Gligorijevic


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Figure 4.14. Cross knitted loop
two sides (right and left side)

Figure 4.16 shows the edge loops that are created so that
the yarn that goes out of the knitting goes to the neighbori
ng loop, then returns to its own loop, creating the third page
of the loop. Edge loops are from row to row of alternating
two or three vertical sites.
The third page every time exceeds the specified process of
creating the position and the position b, which is typical
for knitting in the free state. From figure 4.17 we see that
the edge loops constantly changing with three vertical pages as a bent edge parts of the
yarn, which does not receive any overlapping of the head, lay the yarn as the third page.



Figure 4.15. Elementary knitted loop Figure 4.16. Edge loop
two sides (right and left side)

Scheduled site loops and arches in knitting are four basic types of interlacement, made
of cooling and knitting way:

Right-Left (monotonous ) RL;

Right-Right ( hypocritical ) RD;

Left-Left (birefringence ) LL;

Right-Right (interlock cross ) RRU

Uniform right or left-sided smooth interlacement in the of weft literature has a name
weave. There are two sides, one more beautiful to our eyes as a person, and one as the
reverse side (Figure 4 17).

right and left side
theoretical position and edge loops a).
tighten the position of edge loop b).
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Figure 5.17. Right-left main interlacement

The face knitwear has a page in a V-shaped (as in fish scales), and the reverse side has
a cross-pinhead (like tiles on the roof).


Figure 4.18. Right-right base interlacement Figure 4.19. Left-left base
Interlacement

Right-Right base interlacement (Figure 4.18) has arranged alternately rightand left seri
es of loops.
Left- Left interlacement (Figure 4.19) has alternately arranged left and right rows loop.

right side left side
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Figure 4.20. More regular structure Figure 4.21. More regular structure
of the loop right- right interlacement of the loop on the left interlacement

Figure 4.20 and 4.21 show a more regular form of loops that deviate from the ideal.
Figure 4.22 shows the structure and graphical representation (bottom below the image)
interlock interlacement. This is actually a combination of two two-faced (right-right)
interlacemen networked with each other. According to the distribution between the two
sets of horizontal interlacement hypocritical pinhead loop covering the sequences of the
second birefringence interlacement so as to both of the twists in the cross stretched
condition only visible site loop. Figure 4.23 is given a vivid structure of the interlacement.

In figure 4.24 is given loop geometry and longitudinal section above the basic interlace-
ment. Depending on the type of interlacement, cross connection and the connection with
the bringing the yarn in the wrong space activities triggers yarn elasticity forces and
internal stresses in the yarn.
Mesh tends to take a position in which these forces would be able equalize.
Depending on the type of basic interlacement twists in the direction of the ends toward
the middle. Mesh basic right-left interlacement and twist up toward the right side -face
at the upper and lower ends and the left side of the side edges.
Horizontal and vertical lines of section explain this tendency by twisting the standard,
in curved parts of the yarn tend to be corrected.
Right-right interlacement b, left-left interlacement c and interlock case, the twists
interlacement d have a tendency to torsion, as the forces that act in this in opposite
directions, cancel each other. Presented cross-section along the length allows this
clarification. In addition to twisting, stretching the knitwear significantly affects the
geometry of loops. At the same time the right-left interlacement stretching is very small,
while the right- right high elastic resilience and above all in the direction loop rows.

Based on these samples, we conclude that a pinhead loop harder to correct, closely
pressed by other loop strings and the action of the forces in opposite directions is
possible to stretch the opposite. On figure 4.25 shows the geometry of loops and
intersection by rows and rows, the right of the smooth interlacement.

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Figure4.22.Right-Right cross basic Figure4.24.Right-Right basic interlock
interlock interlacement interlacement to look more appropriate
structure

In the left-left interlacement it only happens in directions loop series. Results bent the
loop is also correct, causing compression of the vertical direction. Interlacement interlock
is a small flexible both in loops direction of lines, and in the direction loops lines, as due
to a combination of two right-right weave almost no room for the heading and the Thus,
the forces caused by deformation of yarns, each other reversed.
Since Mesh creates a bent connecting parts move from but related half loops, it pairs
loops the series (released) interface; loop series in the case of place names or tear
easily discharged loop. In figure 26.4 shows this process with right-left and
interlacement, with overlapping units can rip in two focus loops range in length. In the
same figure b is possible Slitting unit overlapping only in the direction opposite her
knitting.
Loops, arranged in a row next to each other by width of the knitwear, creating
horizontal loop in row, arranged one above the other by vertical, and prepare vertical
loop n and z.
Loop row knit wears create of weft sequenced by bending a yarn around the needle.
Twists divide the of weft (cross-interlacement ) and warp knitting (in two braided
from baseline). Loop row knitwear create of cooling sequenced by bending a yarn
around the needle. Loop Elementary row knitted fabrics things at once alternating
passing warp yarn around needle machines.

We distinguish two types of knitwear: unilateral on or right-left (monotonous) your
right-right (hypocritical).


Dial needle
Cylinder needle
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Figure 4.24. The geometry of loops and cross-section of the rows and rows, left side
smooth (a), basic right-right (b), left-left (c) and interlock interlacement (d).



Figure 4.25. The geometry of loops and cross-section of the rows and rows and
right side smooth interlacement

Right side
Left side
L
e
f
t

s
i
d
e

R
i
g
h
t

s
i
d
e

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Figure 4.26. Discharged loop in the
right-left a, and right-right - b interlacement

Sided knitwear manufactured on machines with a tray of needles-,double-knitted on
machines with two needle bearings . In some cases one-sided fabrics are also available
on hypocritical ties in terms a tray of needles.
Double Side Mesh can be monotonous, hypocrisy birefringence ii. Figure 4.27 shows
the structure of unilateral of cooling (Figure 4.27, a) and basic woven (Figure4.27, b)
interlacement. As you can see from the picture, the se weave each loop consists of the
base and the interface works.
Approximately we can count, that the base of the loop 1-2-3-4-5 consists of two pages
of loops 1-2 and 4-5, and a semi-circle, or upper needle port, 2-3-4.,5-6-7 loop connecti
ng part of cooling twists in the form of platinum bands, or a semi-circle, connecting the
base of an adjacent loop loops order.
Connecting part 5-6 elementari knitted loop is nearly straight cuts and, unlike the inter
face of the loop twists of weft connecting loops, located in neighboring loops rows or in
rows, which are located at a distance several loops rows from each other. Thus, the
loop connecting parts Elementary interlacement knitwear sometimes connected to each
other loops, which are not designated in the neighboring loops series, but the strings,
which are located at a distance of one another.

4.1. Characteristics of the knitwear structure and
their determination

Mesh characterized by the following features and parameters: the un reveling,
stretching, twisting, interference, density, length of yarn in the loop, the loop module,
surface weight, thickness, strength, shape stability and interference, the degree of
orientation of elementary units (loops), the longitudinal fullness, surface and fullness
bulk and so on.
One of the most important parameters of the density of the knitwear, the length
of yarn in the loop, the module and involvement.
Density twists characterize the number of loops, which are located on the unit of its
surface. Per unit area we take a square cloth with side 10x10 mm, 50x50 mm and
100x100mm. Density is determined in two directions: horizontally and vertically.
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Density twists horizontally shows how the number loops sequences on a given unit
area, and mark with the G
h
. The density of vertical shows how the number of rows loops
located in a specific unit area, and mark it with G
v
.



Figure 4.27. Of weft (right-left) loop structures a and warp line b-interlacement knitwear

Determine the actual density of the sample knitwear, and products, calculating number
of rows and loops- loops sequences on a given unit area.
While designing the knitwear density is calculated theoretically, starting from a given
longitudinal mass fineness of the yarn or machine. When calculating the density you
need to know loop Step A (Figure 4.27, a) and height loops row B, which, in turn, may be
the density of horizontally and vertically.
Step loop A (Figure 4.27, a) is called the distance between the axes of adjacent loops
of one loops order. Loop step size can be determined contrary to the proportional
density horizontally:
A = 50 / G
h

G
h
= 50 / A,

That is, the higher the density of horizontally, thus less loop step.
Line height loop and B is called the distance between the axes of two adjacent loops
of one loops series (Figure 4.27 and 4.28). Row height loops, can be determined as the
amount proportional to the density of the opposite vertical

B = 50/G
v
G
v
= 50 / B.

Proper structure of twists to a great extent on the balance of density. In one-right-left
smooth yarn density vertically, as a rule, the higher the density of horizontally. The
thickness and horizontal-to-density vertically call The ratio of density and denoted with
the letter C.
C = G
h
/ G
v
= 50 / A 50 / B = B / A.

When designing fabric ratio of density used for determining the order of the loop
Breakdown by series
B
r
e
a
k
d
o
w
n

b
y

r
o
w
s

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density and vertically:
B = CA, G
v
= 50 / B.

Interference in the knitting yarn is the ratio of length to loop yarn used for the
creation of loops order loop in a length loops order. Because there is a length of yarn in
loops line with the number of loops N equals N and the length loops order at, then the
twisting of yarn
U = / A.

The density of knitted knit wears gives a full picture of the frequency of twists, as it
is not characterized by fibrous material fullness free connecting parts of the yarns from
which comprise the loop.
Length of yarn in the loop and the length of yarn elementary units (loops) in the
corrected state.
Experimental determination of the length of yarn in the loop is achieved only for cross
Disengaged interlacement knitwears. For this we need a sample area of twists and
length 100mm width 100 loops series of twists and one-sided 50 loops series of double-
sided knitwear. Un ravels each line separately (a total of 5 rows). Disengaged pass
carefully and measure out the correct ruler its length. Mean length of yarn in the loop is
calculated by the formula


=

, / n L
x



where
x
L
- the sum of the lengths of elementary yarns in mm;

n
the total number of loops.
For twists

= n
500; for double hypocritical or twists with missed loops series

n= n (100+X
1
-X
2
),
where n- number of measurements;
X
1
- missed loops sequences from the other side knitwear (sample), from which we
count 50 loops ranges;
X
2
- missed loops sequences from the opposite side twists.

For hypocritical twists and press weave (full jacquard) n = n 2 50; for jacquard
knitwear interlacement in complete n n = 0.5 (1 +0.5 N
b
), where N
b
-number of colors
in a row loops ; to interlacement cloth combined with the binding of one-sided and
two-sided weave L
x
= L
p
+ g and n = 100n
1
+50 n
2
, where the sum L
p
- length
interlacement the yarn in the ranks of the right-right (right-left), g total length of yarn
to interlacement the smooth lines (right-left), n
1
-number of rows in knitting right-right
interlacement the length of yarn in one line L
p
, n
2
-number of rows in knitting a smooth
interlacement with a length of yarn in one line L
g
.

Spacing -a across the width calculated with the formula

a = A,

where the -turn binding parts of the yarn;
A -step-loop.

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For example, the knitwear interlacement smooth (as in Figure 4.28) a = A.

The degree of correction the elementary unit is determined by the following
formulas:
Lengthwise
= h/,
Width
= a/.

where h, a- distance of elementary units (loops) to length and width.


Figure 4. 28. Schematic structure of knitted knit
wear

The degre of orientation elementary unit
described as the ratio of the sum of its parts on
the projections given to the length direction
pd yarn in the loop. The degree of orientation
of elementary units in length
d
and width

is calculated by formulas:


d
= p
d
/ ,

= p

/ ,

where pd, p - sum of parts of the loop according
to projections in the longitudinal direction
(lengthwise) and the width.


Example. For the case, which is given in Figure 4.28, we accept that p
d
= 2h =2(B+d
t
)
and p

= A+4d
t
.
Then

d
= 2(B+d
r
)/ ;

= (A+4d
r
)/ .

To determine the fullness of knitwear Prof. A.. Dalidovich introduces the introduced a
formula for the linear module loop and that shows how the theoretical diameter of the
yarn are (placed) in the length of a yarn loop , that is,

m
L
= / d
t
, ,
where m
L
-length loop module;
- length of yarn in the loop, mm;
d
t
-theoretical diameter of the yarn (no air spaces), mm.

At one and the same fullness of knitwear density can be changed depending on the
diameter of the yarn, and its thickness. Then, at the same densities dense count more
dense knitwear with the lowest module loop.
Reduction of loop modules can be achieved by increasing or reducing the diameter
of the yarn length of yarn in the loop. Consequently, the smaller the linear module loop,
thus being more densely knit.
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Giving the module loop twists certain value, we can determine the length of yarn in the
loop twists depending on the diameter of the yarn.
The calculations in general rule is that we start with the loop module, and its value.
In addition to modules in length loops, the complete characteristic twists and determine
surface-volume loop module.

Surface loop module m
p
also characterized by fullness and degree of porosity knitwear.
Surface loop module determined by the yarn diameter d in free the position:

m
p
= AB / d .

Volume loop module characterized by the volumetric leakage and test weight knitwear.
Determine it by cross-sectional area exceeds that nearly qualify as the surface of the
ellipse :
m
v
= 16
( )
,
2

p
d d
ABM
+

where M-thick knitwear, mm;
d
P
-thickness yarns in knitting, mm.

Properties and external form twists to a large extent depends on on its structure, or
interlacement.

Lengths fullness characterized fullness parts knitting yarn row height or width loop
loops steps.Calculation of longitudinal fullness twists difficult because of complex shapes
elementary units ( loops) and their mutual arrangement. .
For simple interlacement, such as right-left (of cooling, smooth), fullness can be calcu-
ated using the formula, proposed by Professor A. N. Soloviev;
veritcal
E
V
= 2d
t
G
v
,
horizontally
E
h
= 4d
t
G
v
.
where d
t
-theoretical diameter of the yarn.

Surface fullness of knitwear are determined using projections of yarns in the loop the
area, limited height and width of the loop line loops steps.
For the simple twists fullness surface can be calculated using the formula or Professor
A.N. Soloviev.
E = 100 (d
t
-4) / (AB).

Bulk fullness of fabric determines the ratio of volume of yarn in the loop twists to the
volume of the loop.
E
V
= ( /
p
) 100,

where - medium weight knitwear in g m
-3
, which is calculated by the formula

= QM
-1
,

where Q is the surface-mass 1m
2
knitwear in grams;
M- thickness of the knitwear; mm

p
-mean density of the yarn in g m
-2
.
Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
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The fullness of the mass ratio is determined by weight yarn twists its maximum weight
(the full fullness total volume of raw material from which cloth is made yarn)

E
m
= ( /) 100,

where -specific density of material that is made yarn, g cm
-3
.

Volume porosity shows parts of the air spaces between the yarns

R
V
= 100 E
V
.

Total porosity shows parts of the air spaces in the knitting, as the yarns, as well
as inside the yarn
R
u
= 100 E
m
.

Volume ratio knitwear established formula

K
v
= . / 100 /
m
E =

The angle of curvature loops order-to the angle loops order inline, opposite the
longitudinal bending twists, and the angle of curvature loops series - the angle of
inclination loops series by bending twists or edges (ends).
The angle of curvature can be measured by protractors with error no more than 1
o
.

Shrinkage during knitting

Mesh, which is the time knitting in an unstable position, due to internal deformation
energy, is generally more expensive on the machine during the knitting, so to change its
geometrical parameters. Trawl, and tightening rollers, always keep knitting in a tense
situation and from time to time indulge in knitting, it would also be rolled up to trade rolls.
Change the width of fabric is defined by shrinkage.
s (%) = 100
i
s i


,

where
i
- width knitted knitwears on pins and needles (machine);

s
-width stripped s
.
The collection depending on the width bearing needle, type and quality of materials
and knitwear density, and ranges from 6% to 18%.

Dry relaxation
Shrinkage knitwear's removed from the machine is extended from 5 to 20 days. After this
time, Mesh has a relatively stable condition, after all this time simply rested. It is an
independent measure of changes in the new twists, which comes under the influence of
time and environment (heat, humidity) with a delay to the equilibrium state of internal
tension. After knitting with knitwear always been tense in the longitudinal direction,
tension rollers for action comes during the relaxation usually a marked elongation and
less perceived or complete of the negative cross- shrinkage.
Shrinkage knitwear's defined as above.
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, 100 (%)
1
2 1
L
L L
s
s

=

where L
1
-length after removal of the machines;
L
2
-length changed.

When dry, Mesh relaxation is only in relatively steady state, provided that they are
independent dimensional change only when it does not change the conditions of
his maintenance. In the changed conditions of relaxation is easy prolonged.

Wet relaxation
If knittwear a long time submerged in water, which has added softener and dried
without tension, then goes into a relatively stable state with a greater degree of
relaxation. However, if many times we repeat the washing and drying without tension,
the best approach to complete relaxation, it is a state, when there are knitting the
minimum amount of internal deformation energy, and when at least the tendency to
change shape achieved the highest formal stability.
The changes are defined as before
s
mr
(%) = . 100
1
2 1
L
L L

Shrinkage knitwear when washed again in the direction of loops and arrays in the
direction of rows of loops. The negative value of shrinkage in the direction of the
loop lines tells us that for a given percentage Meshgathered..
Knitted cotton products, which were wet relaxed, the washing time can be changed to
5 up to 10%.

Diameter of small yarns the yarn twist calculating formula
d = ,
28
t
T
or d = o,oo357 ,
1

t
T

where - specific density of fiber or material, from which he made yarn, g cm
-3
;
T
t
-longitudinal weight yarn in tex.

Through the conditional diameter of yarn and longitudinal mass we can calculate
the linear loop module according to the formula

m
L
= .
28
t
T



Table 4.1. given the values of density of fiber, , i 28 for most used in the
knitwear industry.
Yarn diameter d substantially depends not only on the density of fibers, but also the
structure of the yarn cross-sectional shape, twist in the fibers and other morphological
characteristics. In addition, it is inevitable that significant variation in thickness of the
yarn, where it is not the same for different types of yarn.
When the budget is not possible to take all the qualities, inherent in the yarn, especially if
Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
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it consists of two or more components (types of fibers).
Then to determine the module loop we can use a simplified formula

,
32
t
T
m

=

By accepting that the value of

approximately equal to 32 for all types of yarns


(threads).
Hence, it should be noted that the value of the module loop we determine for each type
of cloth is taken into account the type of interlacement, its purpose and type of
applied yarn.
Module loop structure best characterized loop knitted products with both the
geometric, and physical-mechanical, reflecting the use-value characteristics of knitted
knitwear: density, tensile strength, thickness and surface mass 1m
2
.
A series of research papers, the theoretical explanation of the structure of the
loop knitwear, confirmed the importance of first instance as the loop module knitwear
parameter, which characterizes the geometric and physical mechanical properties
of knitted knitwear. Basically, these works are given the study of rigidity of yarn bending
and twisting on the shape and characteristics of the loop knitwear.

Table 4.1. Density values of fiber
Types of fiber

28
Cotton 1.52 1.23 34
Viscous 1.52 1.23 34
Polyvinylchloride 1.49 1.22 34
Polyester 1.38 1.18 33
Acetate 1.36 1.17 33
Worsted 1.32 1.15 32
Polyacrylonitrile 1.17 1.08 30
Polyamide 1.14 1.07 30
Polypropylene 0.91 0.96 27

Based on analysis of links between modules and loop yarn bending rigidity, it was
concluded that the internal or external forces, caused by any relative deformation of the
yarn in loops or loops knitted product in its entirety, are proportional to the square opposi
te the module loop. What is the lower module of the loop, it will be a small value of
internal forces and lower levels of potential energy of deformation loops, which means
greater instability forms the loop. Excessive reduction of loop modules makes the proce
ss of creating a loop and negatively affect the stability of the exploitation of knitwear, as
the interaction of increased force and friction at the contact points of yarn leading to inc
reased irreversible deformation of knitted twists.
On the basis of said conclude that for each type of raw material, interlacement, prod
uct specific purpose match their optimal values or interval values of the loop module, in
which the knitting gets best useful deformation properties or on the contrary, the best st-
ability during the operation.
Relationship between the yarn needle into the loop and step machines no satisfactory
analytical solution for the many factors that affect the dependence.
Experimental research on hosiery machines have shown dependence on two equations:
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,
63 , 0
15 , 2
;
25 , 0
2
max
min
t
T
t
t
T
t
t
t
+ =
+ =


where
min

- the minimum value of the length of yarn in the loop, obtained at full speed,
the machine and using high quality yarn;

max

- The maximum length of yarn in the loop with these same conditions;
t-step needle machine.
In general we can say that the knitwear industry have two different diameter yarn or
thread:
theoretical and computational d
r
d
t
;
in the free position d.
The theoretical diameter of the yarn we believe that no air space between the individual
fibers into yarn.
In the knitting process in such a situation can come only certain parts of the yarn, for
example, under the pressure of knitting organs. Yarn in the free space is not subject to
action and to force air space between the individual fiber has a diameter d
t
and d
r
.
When designing knitting machines do not use the theoretical diameter of the yarns
have to consider only mean diameter d into free position.
If we look at cross-section Single yarn under a microscope we can see that the
intersection of irregular shape. However, if we accept that cross-section of yarn is
circular in shape, then the yarn can be seen as obviously a large cylinder of length L in
km. Then the diameter of such cylinders have a mean diameter d.
Weight in grams cylindrical yarn length 1m, T
t
= 0,25 d
2
, where -density of the
yarn in a specific g cm
-3
, d-diameter of yarn in mm.

Mass of 1 km will cross the T
t
= 250 d
2
, where the

d

t
T
2
10 57 , 3


= = . 0357 , 0
1

t
T

The above formula shows that the actual diameter of the yarn depends not only on its

longitudinal mass, but also on its density . If we mark that k = 3,57 , 10 10
2 / 1 2


we get

d = k .
t
T
In addition to the actual diameter of the yarn differentiate and computational or
theoretical diameter:

, 00357 , 0
1
=
t t
T d

where - volumetric density of fiber in g cm
-3
.
Yarn, we use the knitwear, usually undergoes twisting in order to increase its
Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
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strength. Usually use two-wire switch that has greater strength than single, because in
the process of knitting yarn suffers great stress. Longitudinal mass yarn 18.5 tex
(Two Single carded) has an ultimate tensile strength 280 cN, and a common longitudinal
mass yarn 37tex-165cN. Strength of the yarn is reduced by 1.7 times.
We will consider two-wire mean diameter threadlike yarn d
sr
. In determining the
diameter should be taken into account that in the process of knitting on circular
machines with a rotary cylinder-wire yarn gets fewer turns (Figure 4.29).
Research results have shown that cross-wire cross-section has the shape of an
ellipse with axes d and 2d, where d is the diameter of the Single-yarn.
During the transition from section to section 1-1 2-2 this ellipse is rotated
90
o
. Projecting on a horizontal plane section 1-1 and 2-2, which are located at different
heights, we can not accept that the average diameter exceeds a respective side of the
rectangle whose diagonal is equal to 2d, i.e.

d
sr
= 2d sin 45
0
= 1.41 d.

In Table 4.2, are given values of the coefficient k for different types of yarn and
thread.
If we go through a common longitudinal mass cross T
tz
= 2T
t
, we get that

d
sr
= k
. 41 . 1 d T
tz
=


To determine the actual diameter of the yarn (Table 4.3) must take into account the
coefficient of fullness exceed q, which shows the amount of space to the total area
of fiber yarns.
The actual diameter of the yarn
d = k
), (mm T
t

where k = 2/
q
.
The coefficient of fullness exceeds q for coarser yarns were in range 0.45 to 0.60.
So for example the bleached cotton fiber yarn with a density = 1520 kgm
-3
ratio of
fullness exceeds q = 0.49 and we get k = 0.0412.The density of the yarn (q), which is
used in the knitwear industry in the Recommendations. Dalidovich, and the coefficient k
are given in the table 4.2.
After determining the density by calculating the height of the horizontal line loop, based
on the size loops steps and density ratio of C:
B = CA.

According to the theory of knitting in the design of smooth
knitwear adopt hat C = 0.865, where the
B = 0.865 4d.

Figure 4. 29. Schematic cross-wire cross sections.

The length of yarn in the loop. For characteristics of twists
greater importance is the length of yarn loop, which
influences the mass, density, strength and stretching.The
length of the loop can be determined by actual sample
twists and theoretical calculation (after calculating density)
according to the formula, proposed by Prof. A.. Dalidovich.
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By computational formulas yarn length in the loop we find, depending on the size of
loop Steps A, B loop row height and diameter or thickness yarn d.
The structure of the loop (Figure 4.27) we see that 2-3-4 and 5-6-7 arcs constitute a
semicircle with diameter D. Each page is about loop yarn d.
Accordingly, the loop length is
= D + 2B.
From the figure we see that
A = 2D -2D,
where is
D = A / 2+ d,
where d-the actual diameter of the yarn.
Substituting values of D in the first equation, we get

= (A / 2 d) +2B,
or
= 1.57 A d+ 2B.
If the page loop we consider as the hypotenuse right triangle with legs, an equal amou
nt of order loops B and yarn diameter d, the formula for calculating the length of yarn in
the loop will get the form:
= 78,5/G
h
+2 .
2 2
d d B + +
The actual length of yarn in the loop is determined by the sample knitwear. Unraveling
one line loop, measure the length of yarn disengaged and as a result of the share of
loops or strings; disengaged

= L / n,

where - length of yarn in the loop, mm;
L-length of yarn in n loops, or strings in mm;
n-number disengaged loop.

Surface mass 1m
2
. Weight knitwear depends on the length of yarn in the loop, from
which it is composed, its density and longitudinal mass of yarn, from which it is made.
Surface mass 1m
2
smooth twists determine, based on the length of the knitting yarn in
a given mass and longitudinal yarns:

Q = L Tt/1000,

where Q is the surface-mass 1m
2
twists, g;
L-length of yarn in a given yarn, mm;
T
t
-masses per unit length of yarn, tex.

Length L in a given yarn knitting yarn shown through the loop length in mm., And the
number of loops n twists, then

Q = n T
t
/1000.




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Table 4.2. Values of coefficient k
Types of yarn and
thread
k Types of yarn and thread k
Unbleached Cotton 0,039528

Polyester 0,041109

Bleached cotton 0,041109

Polyacrylonitrile 0,0386

Cotton (viscous) 0,042058

Polyamide silk 0,044271

Woolen worsted 0,041109

Viscose and silk copper ammonia 0,034785

Carded woolen

0,043007 Yarn- Polyacrylonitrile
fiber
0,046801

Flax and
wet spun hemp
0,038579

Yarn of viscose and copper ammonia
fiber
0,03896

Flax and
hemp
spun dry
0,049015

Polyacrylonitrile binding 0,041109

Acetate fiber order 0,041109

Polyester Yarn
fiber
0,041109

Polyamide

0,049015

Polyester silk 0,037947

High volume 0,0569

Natural silk 0,037947

Polyamide fiber mono- 0,0332

Yarn spun from silk waste 0,041109

Viscous thread 0,041113

Yarn of acetate fibers 0,04108

Polyamide thread 0,046805


Polyester thread 0,043643
Polyamide filament
less braided
0,0380


Polyamide filament
more braided
0,0370


Lavsan thread 0,043643

Number of loops in a given length of knitwear surface can be expressed by its density:

n = G
h
G
v
S1000/55 ,

where is the S-surface twists, mm
2
.
Substituting the values necessary previous equation, we get the formula of surface
mass 1m2 smooth twists:

Q = 0.4 G
h
G
v
T
t
/ 1000,

where is 400 - coefficient, which indicates that the twists in 1m
2
area, equal to 25 cm
2
, at
which we calculate the density, fits 400 times.


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Table 4.3. Values of coefficient k for the calculation and the actual diameter of the yarn

Yarn Computing/k .q Actual/k
Raw cotton 1,520 0,0289 0,825 0,0393
Bleached cotton 1,520 0,0289 0,7448 0,0413
Woolen 1,320 0,0310 0,700 0,0420
Area 1,500 0,0291 0,755 0,0410
Acetic 1,250 0,0319 0,690 0,0429
Polyamide 1,140 0,0334 0,675 0,0434
Polyacrylonitrile 1,170 0,0330 0,760 0,0409

Polyacrylonitrile-
voluminous

-

-

0,190

0,0819
Flax 1,50 0,0291 0,755 0,0426
Natural silk 1,360 0,0306 0,743 0,0480
Viscous witch-
to silk

1,50

0,0291

0,755

0,0410
Polyester 1,38 0,0303 0,776 0,0459
Copper-amonia
the rayon


1,50


0,291


0,755


0,0410

Triacetate

1,28

0,0315

0,498

0,0505

PP

0,91 0,0374 0,365 0,0590


The thickness of knitting. The thickness of knitting M depends on the type of
knitwear and the yarn diameter, from which it is made. Expressed in mm and the
diameter determines the number of cross section of its length. Thickness of smooth
knitting weft slightly longer than d.

Strength of the knitting. Strength of the knitting is characterized by its breaking
load. In most cases the volume is determined on the dynamometer simultaneously with
the determination of ductility.
Determine the strength of twists along the length and width, its stretching in the
respective directions.
Chrinkage knitting. Shrinkage yarn called relative change its width or length for a
given interval of time or due to some process of its processing.
Chrinkage knitwears depends on the balance of his steps and loop step machines, on
which it is made. With increasing step loop A collection of knitwear is reduced, and with
increasing Step Machines steps t increases.
Shrinkage yarn is expressed as a percentage. If the width of knitwear for its
preparation was
p
, and after removing and aging A
p
equal, it will shrink in width, S


expressed as a percentage, to be

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S

= , 100 1 100 |

\
|
=

t
A

A
p
p p

or

S

= . 100 1 100
1 1
|

\
|
=

A
A
A
A A

Shrinkage in length is equal to

S
L
= . 100 1 100
1 1
|

\
|
=

B
B
B
B B

Shrinkage twists width is particularly evident immediately upon removal from the
machine. The same process of shrinkage shall be extended for a time not just in the
process of aging, but also in the process of wearing and especially after finishing.

4.2. Loop structure elements, graphic and
technical cartridges
Mesh is supplied from a yarn or yarn warp system through the creation of loops and their
mutual interplay.
The basic elements of the knitwear in the graphic display includes a loop (Figure 4.30,
a), the trap 2 and cross the third flotation
Point distribution (Figure 4.30, b) indicates the distribution of needles on the knitting
machine in order loop right-left interlacement (single or one-sided).
For right-right interlacement (two-or two-sided) order loop is marked with dots on two
levels with a gap of half steps needle t machine (Figure 4.30, c), or one point (needle)
versus another, which conforms to the layout of needles for the right-right cross-interlock
interlacement (Figure 4.30, d).
Once again we note that the basic geometrical parameters of knitted twists include:
length of yarn in the loop, loop step and line height loop. For the analysis of knitwear
structures proposed method geometric modeling. Many re not stretched searchers analy
ze different parts of the loop are reduced to finding a bent shape of the smail bodies
(Figure 4.31). Hence, it is a form of homogeneous resistance to bending of the yarn is
expressed by special function.
A similar approach is used with multi-stage-level approximation budget in terms of
knitting yarn in her real condition. This method has advantages over geometrical, becau
se it takes into account the characteristics of the yarn and gives the relation between the
size of the loop on the rheological properties of the yarn.
For more complex interlacement an analytical description of the loop is very difficult
method. Therefore, for the calculation of the length of yarn in the loop uses a empirical in
which the length of the loop associated with parameters of twists / 2, and 2.
These parameters are found experimentally for each particular type of interlacement.
This method, like any other empirical method of any science, can not be taken as univer-
sal.
In accordance with the principle Kastiljan real form of body balance is different from all
possible forms of the body in that strain for their size has minimal value.The potential
energy of deformation of bending the yarn in the loop is
W = (1/2)

1
0
2
), 2 /( EI dz M
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where the size is proportional to the bending moment energy. It is clear that the
minimum energy corresponding to the minimum value of bending moment.
Klebs relationship based on proportional-
bend curvatures 1 / at the moment of
of deformation of bending:
M = EI / ,
where EI-rigidity cross-section during bending.

Figure 4.30. Elements loop structures
and their
graphical representation

Area occupied by one loop is

S = AB (mm
2
).

Then the steady state requires a minimum loop yarn curvature in the loop, which
corresponds to the maximum surface loops S. Let the maximum of the function
S = AB = f (A, B) the total available on the variable

(A, B) = -x A-y B-z d = 0

If the individual performing the A and B equate to zero, we get:

/ A = B - = 0;
/ B = A y = 0,

Where is
B = x, A = y.

Figure 4.31. Element of the model loop

Substituting these values in the conditional relation

- xy - xy - zd = 0
we can determine :

= ( - z d) / (2xy).

Substituting the values of in the expression
for S, we get
S = ( - zd)
2
/ (4xy);
Hence, it is
A = ( - z d) / (2x), B = (-z d) / 2y.

.For quality assessment of the steady
state twists introduced ratio of density

C = B / A = G
h
/ G
v
= x / y.

Deviations from these values lead to not steady the position and possibilities of
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deformation knitwear. As in the expression for the length of the
loop smooth interlacement x = / 2,
y = 2, the coefficient for the steady state density will be:

C = B / A = x / y = / 4 = 0.785.

Loop between steps, the row height and length of yarn loops in the loop, there is
some empirical relations in the form:

A = A (, T
t
), B = B (, T
t
).

Tensile knitwear changes the distance between the ds
0
fixed points of the yarn in their
transfer to space. A relative of a particular length is expressed as follows:

= (ds ds
o
)/ds
o
;

where ds- distance between points in the new position deformed position of
knitwear. The deformation can be all over the bridge, or

L
= ( B B
o
)/B
o
,

w
= (A A
o
)/A
o
.

These parameters arise as a measure of distortion tensile twists. However, they do
not meet important needs of additivity two sequenced strains.
Realistic to allow the yarn initial length Lo examines the two sequenced strain and L
1

and L
2
.
We will consider two cases, when you go to the elongation intermittent and
continuous. Results in both cases must be equal. The relative elongation at strain with
interruptions:

1
+
2
= L
1
/ L
o
+ L
2
/ (L
o
+ L
1
) = ( ) ( ) ( ) [ ] ( ) [ ], /
1
2
1 1
L L L L L L L
o o o o
+ + +
Continuously


1
+
2
= ( ) ( ) ( ) ( )( ) [ ] ( ) [ ]. / ) ( ) /
1 2 1
2
1 2 1 2 1
L L L L L L L L L L L L L
o o o o o
+ + + + = +

Comparing both expressions we see that the
1+2

1
+
2
, , that is, the cumulative
strain is achieved continuous and not equal to the sum sequenced strain. This does not
correspond to reality because the differences between
1+2
and
1
+
2
eventually
disappear and elongation L
1
and L
2
become small in comparison to L
o
.
When L is small, then at higher elongation leads to infinitely small changes in length
by dL the current size of the length L. Then the infinitesimal relative elongation is
determined by the expression:
d
H
= dL/L.

From the initial boundary conditions, when there is no deformation, at L = L
o
, we have:

H
= ( ) ( ). ln / ln / + = =

L L L L dL
L
L
o
o

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Deformation
H
is called deformation strain by Genka. We will consider now two
sequenced elongation at deformations:

Breaking ( ) [ ]; / ln
2 1 2 1 o o
H H
L L L L + + = +

Continuous ( ) [ ]; / ln
2 1 2 1 o o
H H
L L L L + + = +
Where is
H
2 1+
=
H H
2 1
+ , that is the result does not depend on order of operations
strain. For this determination it is necessary to consider the larger longitudinal
strain which are characteristic of knitting. However, we at knitwear technology we use
only format deformation in the case of small strains.
Different types of interlacement, which produce the knitwear machines, can be shown
by drawing loop, which gives the most faithful figure of twists, or drawing on cartridge
paper. Technical cartridge is a with photographs of the samples cloth. Display
son checkered paper with each square or rectangle corresponding to a loop or
needle. With squares denote the last bearing needle machines, and the rectangles front
bearing needle machines.

The squares and rectangles to write conditional tags: loop, trap, backward loop half elon-
gated ,elongated, extended, plated, stuffed, drained and so on.
In figure4.32 shows the technical cartridge in on a tray of needles which the horizontal
line represents a series of loops, or single needle machines, a horizontal line represents
one line loop knitwear.
For right-left interlacement, which develop on, technical cartridge (Figure 4:32,a),
consist of squares, however, these cartridges can only be from a rectangle, since these
can get a kniwear and to right-right-machines , but only on a single bed of needles, front
or back. This cartridge is also used to draw or display the left -left interlacement, where
the first line indicates as the front bearing needles with loops on the face, a second line
of patrons means last bearing needle with loops on the reverse.















Figure 4.32. Technical cartridges

When interlacement forms on both of bearing needle (right-left) then used a cartridge
with squares and rectangles (Figure 4:32 b), where squares represent the last tray of
needles and rectangles front bezel needles. Odd rows of the cartridge are shown on the
face, and rolling on the reverse.
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To draw the right-right cross-interlock interlacement technical cartridge (Figure 4:32,
c) contains a horizontal row of the cylinder and one line above it short, the Saucer
(plate). Both of these series together form one complete row of loops, which consists of
two meshed right-right order loop. Loops formed into the bearing needle-shaped cylinder
show on your face and loops that are created the needle holder in the shape
of plates (plate) -on the reverse.
Row numbers denote the patron of all bottom-up in the direction of knitting. The
number of lines are marked depending on the direction of rotation cylinder. If the cylinder
turns clockwise, then mark starts from right to left and vice versa. For other
interlacement which has been collected on circular machines, and do not belong in the
group interlock machines use cartridges for right-right interlacement (Figure 4:32 b).

In figure 4.33 presents the appearance of the spot of paper that is used for schematic
capture display loop. Instead of dots can be used and the vertical bars that also means
the spike, point. Horizontal row of points used in the schematic presentation of right-left
and left-left interlacement. At the locations of points in the triangular layout schematic
view showing a right-right interlacement.
In figure 4.34 conditional tags are given for certain types of loops that are created in
the process of knitting yarn.



Figure 4.33. Scheme needles

5. Analysis of the process of creating a loop

For knitwear machines common mechanisms achieve adequate movement of the main
working body of the machine to create change in the shape, properties, condition and
position of the yarn in the process of creating a loop. One of the major working organs of
the machine is a needle. With the help guide yarn, lay the front of the needle in the
transverse direction, the system of longitudinal yarns (yarn warp system) to each pin
corresponds to one's own software (pitting needle-fitter). Here is a first working operation
appears yarn, and as the last - bending the yarn. Last operation leads to the formation of
a bent yarn half loop. Head pins shall be open initially for receiving a bent part of the
yarn also, for the execution of the last operation, we have to close the needle head to
get a closed surface "bridge". Closing the needle can be accomplished by using needles
of different designs.
First pointed needle designed by William Lee in the 1589 years It consists, according
to figure 5.1, from 1 foot, shank (body) 2 cups 3, 4 end hooks, the hooks 5, Chapter 6,
doors 7 and back 8 (bottom edge of the body of the pin). Due to the mutual external
forces hooks needles can be embedded in a glass body. End of the body (handle)
needles can keep using your feet with exactly calculated clamps or cartridge along with a
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couple of needles so that needle teaches movement necessary for the process of
knitting.



Figure 4.34. Conditional tags loops structure elements

In general the pointed needle appears the possibility of bending the needle. Therefore
they must be exact length and must have sufficiently low stiffness in bending. The
possibility of bending the body under the influence of smaller needles yarn tension to
some extent offset oscillating yarn tension which ensures uninterrupted production of
knitted yarn.
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Figure 5.1. Pointed needle Figure 5.2. Latch needle

Great importance for increasing the productivity of machinery in a decrease in the
working needle lift, which is determined based on the length of the language and
hooks. To reduce this size is an important structural change needles. As a result, they
face a new type of needles - made up of several parts. Used to be made using tubular
needle and applied. Difficulties in making these needles were limited its application. Now
widely used basically knitting production received gutters pins. Principally new about
these needles appears to link the individual operations in the process of creating a loop,
leading to a reduction in the transfer needle knitting and knitwear to increase productivity
of machines.
On figure 5.2 shows the tang pin consisting of the following basic components: a hook,
latch 3 with two recessed in the shape of spoons, pins 4 language, body, 5, 6 back, bend
the body 7, 8 foot and root pins 9th Creating a "bridge" and the opening of the head pin
is executed due to turning the latch pins on its pin, which executes itself half loop,
located on the body of the needle, with its movement in the body. Movement of the
needle running through her feet with the help of the pickup and of locks for the descent
locks the machine.
Latch needles are basically designed for machines with movable needle in relation to i
bearing needle. Latch needle its opening and closing plays the role of the press and also
because the very stage in the process of creating a loop called "pressing". A file must be
the lowest since the antenna determines the needle stroke in the process of creating a
loop and thus affect the spaciousness (dimension) knitting system. Form of needles
must provide connectivity with the body language in the closed and open position
( 15 ... 20 , 15 ... 17). Profile needles helps reject half lo op with needles. In the
pressed needle descent half loop difficult position newly laid yarn, yarn under the hook
of the needle.
Wrap around the needle (Figure 5.3), constructed as Groove pin, consists of two
independent elements: their own needles and a shutter (needles) 7; in other areas
include: gutter 2, body 3, back 4, chapter 5, 6 hooks, spills with flaps 8 and needles spills
9. When moving along the gutter shutter on the left created the hook needles "bridge"
needed for pulling the yarn through the folded part half loop. The needle warp around
other structures - tubular needle a needle body is constructed in the form of tubes,
which are moving closer - needles. Head pin for its functions identical to the head
gutter pins. Pins and fasteners attaching the (Gulf)to group similar pointed needles.
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Figure 5.3. Wrap around pin Figure 5.4. Comparison needles
1-needle, two needle-chase, 3-body, 4-back; a- groove; b- tubular
5-head; 6-hooks, 7-bolt (pin);
8-lead spills needles, 9-pin lead-acid spills

Therefore, all the pins carry the process of creating a loop at the same time. In
figure 5.4 we compare the grooved and tubular needle. In Figure 5.5 shows the princi
ple of the process of creating a loop knitting, knitting of weft and basic method,
which schematically can be represented by four basic clock speed, or phases: laying the
yarn, creating of traps, creating a "bridge"; design (creation of a unit knitwear). On Figure
5.6 shows the principle of detailed knitting by of weft way, which we have already
explained in the beginning.

Due to the relative movement of guide pins and the languages of the knitting yarn are
vested in the open head of a pin. Specifically to create curls of yarn as the name of
technological waste. Pressing is done thanks to the closure of the language, in order to
half loop in its relative motion along the body of the pin to the head, throw on a closed
tab. Adding cross head pins need to create locks that can pass through the loop. Only
when this takes the form of yarn full loop (of weft) knitting the loop and creates a certain
size. Otherwise,Knitting process in itself involves ten stages and the tempo:

1- closure, 2- passing, 3- introduction, 4- pressing, 5- application;
6- connecting, 7- rejection; 8-wefting; 9- landscaping; 10- stretching.

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Figure 5.5. Principles of knitting

The knitting process of cooling and design flows simultaneously. In figure 5.7 shows the
direction the yarn forming loops
1
= (h
1
) of the needle 1, which is located in the lower
position as compared to platinum (sinker). To further movement of the needle was
horizontal, the next move the yarn from bobbins with the guide has to go w' right to the
left, where the yarn was moving for the length of yarn in the first loop But apart from
the transmission pin rotating with needle bearing involved in relative motion. For the
execution of the next cycle of the process of creating loop needle 2 is lifted up. The
depth of cooling is reduced to the size of h
2
. Yarn tension in the loop
2
is reduced.
Movement of the yarn, in a situation where it would not have happened, could be made
towards more tightening.
Although the tightening of the right branch loops
1
greater than the tightening of the left
branch of the loop, the yarn to create a loop is coming not only from the guide, but also
with the previously created second loop
2
.Part of the yarn from the loop
2
passes
through the platinum in the first loop
1
. File transfer depends on the tightening of
relations branch of the yarn through the newly created loop
1
The final length of the
knitting yarn in the loop corresponds to
2
= (h
2
). In the left branch of the loop a yarn
tension constant we can count. Due to the size of this transmission is variable and the
length of yarn in the loop changes with time. Transfer of manufacturing from the loop is
finished the new is of great importance.





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Figure 5.6. Weft principle knitting

For example, based on knitting machines, yarn transfer from half loop can reach up
to 200%. But the transfer also shows positive effects on the process of creating
a loop. It consists in the fact that the transfer helps reduce yarn breaks in weaving. The
occurrence of transmission is known to us using the experimental and theoretical
methods can be further investigated and studied.



Figure 5.7. Schematic cross over Figure 5.8. Performance of the
strung yarn yarn tensile



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In developing a method of spinning yarn of weft lay the bodies of needle-nose guide the
needle. Apart from this in the next working stroke is executed bending cross (creating
curls). This has not only theoretical but also technologically important. Special
Operations yarn bending causes a constant length loops for all loops loop order, and as
a result, it is better uniformity than the knitting twists method of manufacture. Bent yarn is
added to the movement of needles along the axis of the head, which is due to the
compression end (top) hooks into the glass needle closes. Next move the needle in the
same direction leads to the formation of curls in loops. And in the process of making the
loop distinguish ten operations or phases.

Closing phase consists in the relative motion of needles and half loop, where a half
loop moves towards the end of the needle in the region of the hooks.
The distance between in the rush hooks and head half loop must be such as to ensure
the laying of new yarns.
Relative motion of loops and pins, generates friction forces between sliding surfaces,
which creates special conditions for the execution phase of the closure. Add a force to
occur in areas half loops loop arches. When the machine does not have platinum, then
half loop moving along with the needle to the substantial size, in comparison to moving
the needle on closing. Distance between the passing of working groups, we determine
the law of motion, speed regime and productivity. It is necessary to know the size of
additional moving the needle for closure, caused by the interaction of needles and half
loop. This move depends on working half loop angle relative to the needle. If the
interaction between the needle and yarn loops occurred at a point, then reversing the
loop formed within the angle of friction. In the particular case discussed phenomenon
requires special solution, to this end should be focused on elements of the mechanics of
elastic yarn, the more so as the next material is often based on separating the
mechanics.
Let a and b at the ends (Figure 5.8) element ds yarn tension acts, directed by
tangents. Therefore, the cross is in a constant force field, where the force ratio per unit
length no stretch yarn per unit of its length the same F . Then the element exceeds the
force will act, F ds, where - longitudinal weight yarn.
Consider the balance of the element ds. Conditions of equilibrium of this element are:


(5.1)
Where is
d . 0 = +

ds F T
This equality expresses the differential equation in vector form.
Show this equation in projections on the axes of Cartesian coordinates. Since the cosine
of the angles which the tangent to the curve at point a (x, y, z) is formed with the
coordinates axes, are equal to dx / ds, dy / ds dz / ds, that is,

T
x
= T ,
ds
dx
T
y
= T ,
ds
dy
T
z
=T .
ds
dz

Projecting both sides of the vector equation (5.1) on the axis of coordinates, we will
have,
, F )
ds
dx
T (
ds
d
x
0
1
= +

, F )
ds
dy
T (
ds
d
y
0
1
= +

. F )
ds
dz
T (
ds
d
z
0
1
= +


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Let the equation of balance exceeds the projections of the natural axis of the triangle
constructed at the point a. Denote ort tangents, normal and with , , ,
0 0 0
bi normal
then T T = .
0

.
ds
d
T
ds
dT
) T (
ds
d
ds
T d
0
0 0

+ = =

,
ds
d


0 0
=
As is, ,
ds
d


0 0
= where is - the radius of curvature of the curve at point a, then,
=
ds
T d

0
0
T
ds
dT
+ .
the equilibrium equation (5.1) we get

1
)
`

+
0 0

T
ds
dT
+ . F 0 = (5.2)
Since the equation (5.2) can be represented in the form

0
1
0 0 0 0 0
= + + +
)
`


F F F
T
ds
dT
,
From this equation we get the balance exceeds the projections of the natural axis of the
triangle,
, F
ds
dT
0
1
= +

, F
T
0
1
= +



F = 0. (5.3)

From equation (5.3) we see that the derivative of the yarn tension curve is equal to
taking the opposite sign of the projection of force acting on a tangent, and the pin yarn
tension at a given point at a bend in the curve, at which the yarn sets in the balance,
equal to taking the opposite sign projection forces on the main track.
The most widespread system of coordinates, which is widely used to analyze the
process of creating a loop, not suitable for solving the task of moving the yarn half loop
closing.
Let us introduce the coordinates, which are associated with the area, which is set yarn.
(Figure 19). As a new variable using the angle is a simple geometric meaning - that
is the angle between the tangent to the yarn ort and vector, placed in a given case in a
plane oriented cylinder and directed to the side of increasing the polar angle .

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Figure 5.9. The position of the yarn tensile Figure 5.10. Determination of the depth of
cooling
Equation balance exceeds the area of flat circular cylinder moving with speed

,, can be
rewritten in the form of
2
cos k
d
d
=

,
, where k- coefficient of friction of yarn per cylinder.
Separation of variables we get
. kd
cos
d

=
2


where the tg = -k+c.

where c - arbitrary constant. U taki B =
B
=0, =
B
i tg
B
= c . Then

tg = tg
B
-k.

Both intercept and cross A
1
B and A
2
C lie in one plane, the points A
1
and A
2
are set in a
plane parallel to the plane xoy, symmetrical to the axis Oy.
At point C tg
c
= -tg
B
, = . Where the tg
B
= .
k 2

In this way, when closing the


loop is placed at an angle to the movement of the needle. Additional move the needle
when you close the relationship is found tg
B
= .
k 2

z
B
= tg
B
,
where - separation of bearing needle to outline the final device, which added to the
force retains half loop of movement with the needle.

Under the mean laying add yarn to the needle in accordance with the program, specific
weave pattern. Yarn must be placed on those hooks needle, where not yet done
typing. The most common general case of adding a switch is the addition of an arbitrary
point, which does not match the coordinates of the plane, the position of needles in the
direction bearing needle cylinder.
If we project and move to a horizontal tangential plane, we get a tilting angle of the yarn
in relation to the horizontal plane, which is set half loop (loop adding yarn angle) and
angle of approach in relation to cross tangential plane (angle of needle pass). Loops
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and add yarn needle angles characterize the conditions of interaction with the yarn
needle. Reliability of operation yarn hook needles yarn orientation is determined in
relation to the hook.
Under of cooling mean bending cross placed on the needle to produce a certain loop
lengths and shapes. The length of yarn in the loop appears to be the main
parameter twists, which determines its structure and properties. In the knitting process of
creating a loop back in the beginning of the process is planned to obtain a certain length
of yarn in the loop, which is calculated on the basis of design twists. Related to this
finding the depth of cooling h
k
* by a given length of yarn in the loop is of great
importance and has great practical value.
The solution of the task is reduced to finding roots of transcendental equation:
, cos r cos sin r
t
+ +
2 2

(5.4)
where: t - needle step;
r = r
1
+ r
2
- Radius Bends secondary lines yarn with needles and the plate (figure
5.10);
- pitch angle linear intercept cross the plane loop creation.
Trigonometric functions sin and cos we explain the levels of :

sin = - ,
)! n (
) ( .......
! !
n
n
1 2
1
5 3
1 2 5 3
+
+ + +
+



cos = 1- .
) n (
) (
! !
n
n
1 2
1
4 2
1 2 4 2
+
+ +
+


A.S. Dalidovich of cooling account to be made with too much tension the yarn from the
previously created loop (degree before tension we can not always predict) and the
equation (5.4) does not take into account the deformation of the yarn, accepting that the
angle , equal
2


Then
). 57 , 1 (
2
1
r h
k
=
If you are restrained only by the two broken down, we get the equation

.
r
t
r
0
2
3
4
3
2 3
=

+



If we get three broken down by equation 5-th degree.

The equations of the third and fifth grade in the general case the roots can not be a
solution. Root of equation (5.4) can be found by iteration.
For practical application of methods iteration necessary to clarify the exact conditions of
a lot of knowledge iteration process. If there is a proper fraction q, such that,

q (q) f <1,

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to the process iteration down independently of the initial value
0
. Us show the equation
(5.4) in the form of
= .
r
sin r
t
arccos
n 1
2
2


Such presentation provides the fulfillment of inequality

f

()<1.

if we choose
0
(0;1,57) to guarantee that successive approximations;

n
=
1
1
2
2

n
n
r
sin r
t
arccos


the solution of the initial equation (n = 1, 2, ...).
Exceed the budget assumed that the no stretch , flexible in some abstract sense, also
the analytical study to form the yarn of cooling is necessary to use the mechanics of
yarns, stiffness and bending strength. Application of nonlinear elasticity theory for
studying the behavior of knitting yarn main a obviously leads to the development of
theory knitting. However, it should be noted and that the application of computational
methods to find and form the yarn tension during bending can be extended only to the
continuous yarn. Initial condition of all theories, there is the hypothesis of flat sections, in
accordance with the normal cross-section that is crossed, before the strain remains the
same after deformation. In doing so wastes the pressure between the fibers.
Calculation of complex threads and yarn requires another approach, since the budget
according to the theory of straight sections do not agree with the experimental data. To
determine the internal forces and move by means of ordinary equations of equilibrium of
thin rectilinear shaft, written for the final deformed state, it is necessary to take into
account the size of the order of internal forces.
The calculated tensile complex nor allow comparison, the interaction of bending stiffness
to tension or very little and that the budget is complex and can not run for the elastic
thread is taken into account the different sizes of individual or internal forces. Ultimately
each case will be a special approach. The issue of exclusion from the calculation of
stiffness can be resolved after the evaluation of elastic modulus and moment of inertia of
cross section of elementary filaments, which depends on the basis of its diameter. For
the overwhelming majority of thread, which is processed in knitwear production module
and the size of elementary nor are the boundaries that allow you to ignore the stiffness
of the threads and yarn bending. Even more so if these positions related to the transition
from natural and chemical fibers, and also from their mixtures.
In the last twenty years with traditional materials, there have been new artificial materials
with high strength and stiffness characteristics. The values of the module amounts, for
example, glass fibers 72,000 M Pa, the carbon fiber 400 000 M Pa. For these values we
see that the size of the stiffness beyond the usual or ten times. Here the theory of
complex or is required regardless of fineness or elementary.
Entering a movement called the laid yarn under the hook of the needle. When
incorporating in the case knitting process of creating loops, all loops must be as tight,
otherwise the event is possible to move the switch towards a more stretched
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parts. Redistribution of cross between individual loops causing uneven twists. When
moving a loop of yarn over the needle moves away from the geodetic position.
Calculation of removal is analogous to the finding of reduced friction angle of the closing
operation. The depth of cooling is reduced by comparison with the depth of cooling in
bending. Therefore, when completed intake following reduced yarn tension in the new
loops.
The following operations - pressing - is to remove the gap between hook and body of
the pin. Pressing operation on knitting machines achieve a press, acting in a row on the
needle. After the introduction of cooling, with further needle cylinder revolution faced with
real press, which has a special form. Due to the open side to bend the top of the hooks
in a glass needle. Simultaneously with the pressing action of the final stops on half loop
devices. Half loop to slip the hook of the needle. In the operation of pressing the newly
tress must be entered under the hook needles to curl at the pressing not pressed the tip
of the hook. Otherwise this would cause threaded half loop the hook.
When inflicting half loop moving the needle hook pressed newly passed locks in the
direction of the hook, located on the inner surface of the tip of the needle. Start the
application follows the same time moment, when the end of the hook needles
to compress find below the arches half loops specimens (Figure 5.11). In causing the
main part (base) half loops must pass the first part of the thickened body of the pin in the
area of the bowl, and then by pressed hook. Contour length of the hooks to the body is
much larger in diameter than the body before applying. The length of the yarn is
basically half loops may be increased due to recent moves by the needle, since the loop
on that needle still in the body. Yarn loops from the previous needle can not move
because of this, which at that moment caused half loop located in an already advanced
stage, and then to increase the length of yarn in the loop is also required yarn, and in
greater quantities than being considered a loop. Further movement of needles leads to a
transfer switch in the opposite direction - from the needle, which is derived half loops
rejection. Accordingly, the increased length of yarn half loop basically applied on the
hook, was achieved not only as a result of forming the yarn, but at the expense of
moving the yarn from the adjacent needles. In this half loop, just over thrown the
needle, reducing its length. The actual length of yarn in the loop is always lower than the
theoretical obtained by calculation. Size reduction and uneven yarn depends on many
causes and one of them appears in the execution of application operations.



Figure 5.11. The operation causing Figure 5.12. The position of the newly
the hooks needle half loop formed loop and half loop

So far in the process of creating a loop, yarn loops and newly half loop were the same
needles on different surfaces, independent from one another. This attached position
switch at the end of the application indicates that the newly created loops and half loops
separate from each other. Half loop newly set up under the hook, and previous half loop
be deducted from the hooks. To create a new element of knitwears - a loop, it is a new
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cross slip through previous half loop. After the completion of the introduction and
application of operations following the merger of newly half loops loop, when they
contact each other directly. On modern machines, incorporating no significant influence
on the process of creating a loop. The introduction of this operation is more traditional
than necessary.
Incorporating happens with the arrival of the internal points at the top hooks to the
plane deployed half loops. The next move the needle and the loop determines the
descent prior half loop needles with hooks to the new interchange. This operation is
called a refusal. Execution of rejection is associated with some difficulties, caused by
time, which prevents new half loop previously rejected the needle. Previous half loop
remains the needle until it be spread to two new half loops thick yarn. In this previous
half loop fight the resistance of the new yarns. The operation runs successfully if the
form of a needle filled with a needle can descend from the previous half loops. In order
to increase the breadth of this language on the part of the bowl pins, reducing the
thickness of the top hooks in the set of new loops in denial. Major impact on the
execution of the operation show the structure and properties of the yarn. If the loop
created from twisted yarns, this particular yarn distributed in the area of contact and a
new half loops loops one after another at the rejection of themselves constitute a special
pass.
Analogous phenomenon appears to move with less twisted. Therefore, in this case
facilitates the cross-forming yarns. Better transition to the new half loops also helps
reduce the friction coefficient exceeds the yarn is achieved by waxing or fatting yarn.
After refusing half loops create new loops. By creating a new yarn called threading
through half loops, rejected the needle as a result of the final creation of new
loops. When knitting how to create a loop, the length of yarn in a new loop to shape
equal to the length of yarn in the loop when of cooling.



Figure 5.13. Change the length of yarn in the loop (a) and graph- P (b)

Operation within the design cycle process of creating a loop. Knitting bodies start
moving, to start a new cycle of knitting. Initial movement of the needle is followed by the
tightening of her previous half loop. After creation, loop rejected the needles, the needles
are arranged so that the loop can again reach the hook needles. This phenomenon
causes the crimp loop, that is leading to mistakes in knitting. When completed prior half
loop tension comes from the path of movement speed needle through a loop behind the
back needle.
Concentrated tension is achieved by the platinum, acting on a loop, and turn them so
that parts of the new loop, distributed under the hook needles, placed behind the back
needle. On most machines the general tightening of previous half loop performs a
special mechanism for lifting the finished knitwear.
During the tension on the straight line intercept (Figure 5.12) branch of a loop of length 0
(Figure 5.13, a) acting force P by half loop. Interactive effects of newly and previous half
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loop there is an increase in the length of yarn loops. Volume determine the length of
yarn in a loop that is caused by the interaction of the loop.
The length of yarn can be found as the length of the curve:
Since the departure of the yarn first initial linear shape under the influence of tension
is obviously important, the size
2
|

\
|
dx
dy
is small in comparison with the unit.
We can write that,
- .
dx
dy
dx
dy
2
1 1
2
2 |
|

\
|
+
|

\
|
+
then
. dx
dx
dy
L
(

\
|
+

2
2
1
1

(5.5)
According to well-known dependence on the theory of bending,
,
T
Q
dx
dy
= (5.6)
where: Q - simple beam shear force, which has a range of yarn and loaded too, like
yarn;
T - yarn tension in the area of knitting.

Using relations (5.5) and (5.6), we get

, dx
T
Q
L
|

\
|
+ =
2
0
2
1
1
0


or, since

=
0
0
0

, dx T - constant size,
L =
( )
. dx Q
T
2
0
2
0
0
2
1


Lets calculate the integral

0
2
: dx Q


=
|
|

\
|
+
|
|

\
|
=
0
0
0 0
2
2
2
0
1
0 0
2


.
ab P
dx
Pa
dx
Pb
dx Q
b a


Thus, the length of yarn, folded as the result of previous half loop the new, will be
.
T
abP
L
2
0
2
0
2
+ =
Yarn tension in the knitting zone is constant, changes in elastic deformation and no
change in the length of yarn in the loop, is caused by the interaction of the loop.
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.
T
abP
2
0
2
2
= (5.7)
In analyzing the process of creating a loop detect bit boundaries, which tends to position
a loop. Taking the effect of equation (5.7) and experimental data can be obtained
depending on graphics <tension -change the length of yarn in the loop <<(Figure
5.13, b). There is an area in which is the most sensitive to fluctuations in tensile
fabric. Working mechanism of merchandise in this area is undesirable.

5.1. Principle of connecting the elementary unit knitting

The principle of creating and connecting the elementary unit- Loop the yarn is given in
figure 5.14: for knitting way, the straight way of weft-b, circular of weft so-c and the
basics of Knitting so-d. In knitting ways to create the loop yarn is to be taken to help
guide the yarn crosswise on each sequenced needles in particular, from which they and
the knitwear named cross-woven cloth, or interlacement.
When straight of weft ways to create a loop yarn also taken over the yarn guide, which
with the help of weft platinum weft between the needles on all pins at once, or on any
other pin if knits finer cloth, in order to obtain equal size loop and that there would not
tear the yarn in the process of weft at the same time on all pins. In rougher machine of
weft this is allowed, because the yarn coarser and stronger and as such it can withstand
load of cooling between all the pins at once.
The way of the circular knitting machines also of weft performed with platinum, which
sequenced weft cross between the needles. The depth of weft the yarn between the
needles depends on the of cooling cam, which is particularly adjusted for a deeper or
less weft yarn, which regulate the density of knitting or loop size.
In Elementary knitting ways to create loops with pointed, tubular latch or needles each
warp yarns are alternately laying on tenterhooks over the laying yarn, or perforated
plate. Each needle corresponds to a laying with warp yarn, which is alternately taking on
the needles sequenced according to weave, In Elementary knitting ways to create loops
with tapered, tubular latch or needles each warp yarn is alternately taking on the needles
through the depositor yarn, or
perorated plate.


Figure 5.14. The principle of
elementary units in
the knitting yarn
Knitting a-, b-flat of weft, c-
circular of weft d-
Ground knitted

5.2. The ratio of pulling
force in the yarn in the
process of weft

In figure 5.15 shows the ratio of
pulling force in the yarn in the
process of weft between the
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needle and platinum.
Between the first two pins of cooling exceed the maximum, between the third and fourth
needles with the other platinum is half, while the platinum with a third between the third
and fourth pins initially. The figure marked effect of forces and angles of wrapping yarn
with needles, and platinum.

|
|

\
|


=
3 2
1
n 1
F
F
n
i
i
F
e F


where coefficient of friction;
wrapping angle of the yarn with the working bodies;
F
F1
- force in the yarn needle with the first F
1
in N;
F
Fn
- force in the yarn with the final creation of the loop.


Figure 5.15. Action force in the yarn at the yarn stage of weft

5.3. The procedures of warp with the latch, and pointed
wrap around needle

In figure 5.16 and given the process of cooling the yarn when knitting how to create a
loop with latch needles, or needle first Arrow shows the time to get the needle back and
forth with the pickup pins and part of the machine locks for the descent of needles.
which are not shown in the picture. Refusal half loops overhead support the needle edge
ridge bearing needle second the head pin is half loop. Arrow is shown by the newly
forming loops 3.
In figure-b shows the moment of weft the yarn between the needle-nose 4 needles 1
and 2 with platinum third Arrow shows the direction of platinum, yarn and wrapping of
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yarn with needles.

a) b) c)

Figure 5.16. How of weft Yarn

In figure c shows the moment of cooling the yarn between 1 and 2 platinum with gutters,
or tubular needle 3 with the window or flap needle(needles) 7 half loop 6 is the head pin
and loop 5 between 1 and 2 platinum (sinker).
The procedure of weft will be further explained by the analysis procedure to create the
loop on these machines.

6. Finesse machine

Under the fineness machines mean number of needles at specific longitudinal unit to
which the numbered machines. So for example if the machine is fineness 10, numbered
after the British system of numbering (1e" = 25.4 mm) then we mean that in a length of
25.4 mm we have 10 pins. The machine is even finer if at a certain longitudinal unit is a
larger number of needles. Fineness machines can compare and over needle steps t
machine, it is the distance between the centers of two pins. If these steps we have more
of a particular length of the working machine, the more the machine is finer, and vice
versa, if the number of divisions or smaller steps, the machine is coarser.
Figure 6.1 The definition of needle sharing and numbering systems for the fineness of
flat knitting machines, flat weft machine, flat base knitting machines, circular knitting
machines with pointed needles, circular knitting machines with latch needles and knitting
machine circular base.
In table 6.2 give the numbering systems for fineness of machinery by type of knitting
machines.
Needle step machine or partition (t) can be determined from the ratio of the system for
numbering machine (S) and number of needles (N
i
) on a particular machine working
width. The number of needles (N
i
) is used only in one of bearing needle,

t = S/ N
i
.

Fineness of the machine (F
m
) is determined from the ratio of the number of needles
(Nor) and working width of the machine (N
r
) for flat knitting machines and scale circular
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knitting machines and cylinder (D )

F
m
= N
i
. S / N
r
.
Circular knitting machines,
F
m
= N
i
. S / D .

Conversion of a finesse machine, numbered in a system of numbering, the numbering
system we use another relation,
S
1
/S
2
= F
m1
/ F
m2
.

Example: a flat knitting machine has of cooling fineness 21 gg (1gg = 38.1 mm; read the
gadgets, it's actually 1 1/2 e "). Convert this subtlety in the English system of numbering,
or to 1e.

F
m1
= F
m2
. S
2
/ S
1
= 21 1 "/ 1 " = 14 E.

Table 6.1. Units of measurement system for numbering groups knitting machines

Fineness
mark
The reference
length
measurement
system

Metric
measurement system

Machine Group


E

1 e
(English Col)


25.4000
Flat knitting machines,
Circular knitting machines,
Elementary knitting machine with
a pointed or wrap
around (tubular) wires
GG (gauge) 1 1/2e ".Col 38.1000 mm Straight weft machines
Fr (French
coarse)
1 French
Col
41.6655 mm ( to 27 Fr)
Ff (French
fine)
1 French Col 27.7777 mm (of 20 FF)
GG (gauge) ER 2 English
cola
50.8000 mm Elementary knitting machines
with
pointed needles (Raschel)

F (fine) 25.0000 mm 25.0000 mm Malimo machine
m 100.000 100.000 Arahne machines
m 10.0000 mm 10.0000 mm Hakelgalon mashines


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Figure 6.2. Definition of needle steps and systems of numbering machines fineness

Table 6.2 is given finesse machine with needle step converted to systems for numbering
machine refinement.



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Table 6.2. Needle step machine (t) for different systems of numbering machines



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6.1. Division of knitting machines

Table 6.3. Data is a division of knitting machine showing the needles, their movement
and torque cylinder with circular knitting machines. Some machines are now no longer
used, but these are the same in order to enable the reader to know that all machines
were in their time of use. Thus, for example circular cooling machines, French weft
circular machines for a time was not in use, to last 10 years emerged a new version of
these machines with additional devices for sampling. This machine at one time knitting
right left smooth weft Mesh solely of cotton, which was intended for making underwear.
This machine is most evident process of creating a loop at the pointed needle with a
circular platinum and presses.

Table 6.3. Imagery view knitting machines with moving bearing needles with needles






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7. The process of creating loops in the right flat
right flat knitting machine left

The process of creating loops on the right flat right flat knitting machine Left (marquetry)
goes sequenced in seven stages and the tempo (Figure 7.1). Starting needles with locks
machine is achieved by using the pickup and the launching of needle (Figure 7.2). Lock
is one of the most important body of work machines. The figure given a simple locking
two components for lowering the needles and a pickup needle.
With the pickup (H) pin is raised in your channel up and downhill with the rustling of the
(S), which also regulates the size of the loop, or, the density of knitwear.

With automated machines of this type lifter is composed of several parts, usually four,
which several parts, usually four, which allows you to bring in Knitting needles, half-
engaging and engaging positions. Machines of this type are used in domestic production
(cottage industry). The machine gets all the commands of knitting from one place with
the help of charts, film strips, muster rolls and more.
The simplest way of knitting, or making twists, based on the application of a reservoir of
needles placed horizontally, in which languages are arranged so that the pins can slide
in the axial direction of the needle ribs or channels. The very process of knitting is done
in the area of repulsive three reefs (Figure 7.1). Phase extraction (a) is the initial and
final (g).

1. Announcing a): Pin 1 is raised up as much as then you need to half loop 2, which
hangs in the head pin, move in front of the repulsive three reefs, and as a result of
acts of force withdrawal schedules Mesh nearly verticals lot pins.

2. Closure b): The further movement of the needle in the same direction half loop com-
es to latch needles, pins and opens the head slides on the language of the body plate.
As a result of inertia latch needle may be re-closed, it must be retained in his new
position with the help of brushes, which are not shown in the picture. Brush on the
machine with the role of open tabs needles to yarn may pass over the tabs of needles,
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yarn would otherwise be deposited into closed language, in which case slid the needle
so that the process of knitting would have done. In these places, there would be a
discharge loop.
Closing is the final phase when the needle is found in the right position.

3. Laying the yarn c), d): The needle goes so forward to yarn guide 4, which is moving
along the needles of the needle bearings, can take the cross. Guide yarn or craft must
be placed above the needle or too close nor too far, because in the first case can be
damaged needles, while another repeated that the yarn does not pass over the tabs
needles. According to synthetic machinery this distance varies and is mostly determined
by the needle lift in the front end position open tabs and start guide hand look at what dis
tance from the needle is the same.

4. Entering d): By lowering needle (s), figure 7.2, the needle back into the channel back
in the beginning of the entry pass to the head or the head of needles and therefore is
fixed in its position that the heads of needles. Further movement of the needle yarn is
subsequently with drawn. At the same time, finding the needles on the body, half loop
two moves in the direction toward the head pin.

5. Extrusion and 6. Applying s): The return movement of the needle reaches the
position where the tab comes half loop pins, including him, that is, closing the head pin,
creating a bridge, and is applied to a closed tab.

7. Cooling and 8 Rejection f): The needle is so moving back and pulls the retaining
ridge to half loop, sliding head pins refuses, and needle head laid yarn is folded and
simultaneously withdraws the half loop in compliance with the required length of the
loop.

9. Format g): At this time obtained a loop, due to the effect of force withdrawal of twists,
eventually to form or create in a new loop. This process of knitting the ends and creates
a precondition for the next, first, phase.
In figure 7.2 provides an illustrative view of creating the appearance of the pickup loop
lock (H) and the launching of (S), moving the needle and passing the yarn (P) to guide
the yarn.

7.1. The process of creating loops on flat weft machines


Weft machines have a different name "before knitting machine or Cotton (Cotton).
Process of creating a loop at the Cotton machine can be divided into ten stages, or
tempo, such as: close, laying the yarn, yarn cooling and division, making semi - loop,
pressing, transfer half loops, networking, design and drawing.

1. Closing a), b) and b '): a tray of needles (Figure 7.3) is lifted up, and red semi-
loop 2 is brought to the body of needles. At the same time be repulsive final platinum 3
(subtractive) and 4 cooling platinum down slightly down ward while maintaining a semi lo
op. At the time when the needles are prepared to accept the newly laid yarn, pebble-
dash and the graduation plate (steam) and five move forward by taking the output positi
on (Figure7.3. b) and b ')).


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Figure 7.1. The process of creating loops in the right flat knitting
machine Left the process

2. Laying the yarn c): When the captured needle and platinum proper position, the yarn
guide 6 is taken from the cross needle bearings one end to another. Taking the
cross performed in front of the peaks peak needles needle on the body.

3. Weft and yarn division c), d), d '), e): This paper presents the moment of weft and
separation of the yarn. When the guide pass cross weft platinum 4 each odd is cooling
or compacting the yarn between the needles to creating curls. When completed weft
platinum weft retreat somewhat eased back to pass and allowed to steam platinum 5
each even perform weft yarn. This method enables the creation of equal curls, and, of
equal length loops. If the weft made at once with all platinum this would result in the
creation of unequal curls, and hence the creation of uneven knitting. More Council is
likely to be breaking the yarn, because it can not withstand the load that occurs in
the stage of weft. In the rougher machine weft executed at once with all platinum
because the yarn coarser and stronger, and as such can withstand high load at the
stage of cooling.
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Figure 7.2. Imagery knitting needles with locks and

4. insertion yarn curls f): After of weft curls the same must be transferred to the heads
of pins. Needles cover the position where the heads of needles at the same height with
the upper edges of platinum in order not to hit each other with needles conductor cross
6
th
.

5. Pressing g), h): Needles are run down, and press 7 moving forward in a horizontal
direction. At the same time weft and graduation platinum retreated slightly
backwards. Press the needle as close pressing peaks peaks in the glass needle.

6. Connecting to): Further down ward movement of needles half loop move away from
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the head of needles and associated with new locks. At the same time weft and
graduation platinum retreating backwards.



Figure 7.3. Process of creating a loop at the Cotton machine

7. Refusal j): After a phase of connecting pins and continue to move downward, so that
definitely half loop away from the head of needles. Platinum continues to retreat back
until with their noses do not come off, new locks. At that point, the previously created half
loop definitely created a new loop. Newly curl up formed in half loop.

8. Format j), k): Pulling the newly created loop through the newly formed half loops
comes to design.
Needles were taken by their low position.

9. Drawing k): a device for withdrawal twists newly red loop is pulled in the direction co-
mmodity roller. During the drawing up knitting needles move even higher up.
All described moments or phases, are executed in one time so that it is not possible to
observe this processes separately, even when shooting with film camera for snapshots.
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7.2. The process of creating loops on the
Left-Left flat knitting machines

Process of creating a loop on the flat side to the left machines is the same as for knitting
on the right-left-one needle bearing- needle bar) flat knitting machines with latch
needles.
In order to interlacement a left-left line, the loop must create an alternate class to class
on the other side of the needle or needle bearing. On the left side to a needle (Figure
7.4) at one end of the needle in the front bed of needles create the right loop, and at the
other end of the last reservoirs of needles left loop. By removing the knitwear from the
machine left rows cover Re hob right, so that with both parties see the left loop twists
and rows. Stretch fabrics by the amount we will clearly see the right and left rows of
loops.
In position a), b) ,figure 7.4, a pin is pulled to the left since the previous platinum 2
'liberated from the ram locks 5th Left platinum 2 moves under the influence of locks to
the right, and the pressure to ram through 4.
In position c), d) left two platinum comes in the front position and the pressing device
4 releases the platinum. During that same time, platinum is going right to the right and
releases the hook needles.
The position is) right platinum comes in last position, a left hook procedure platinum
needle. At the same time the pressing 4 pressure head platinum. For a short time both
platinum are in the front position. At position f) right platinum release hook needles, and
left with platinum ram operation hook needle and pulls it to the right.
In this way, loops are formed alternately on one hour of class on the other side of the
pin.

7.3. The process of creating loops on circular knitting
Machines with latch needles and a needle bearing

The process of creating loops on a circular knitting machine with one needle bearing
(right-left in the form of a cylinder) is carried out at ten pace or phases.

1.Closure a): Pin 1 (Figure 7.5) by using the elevator locks runs up to half loop 2 from
the head of needles led to the body and the needles to keep your head pins released for
the acceptance of new laid yarn.

2. Laying exceeds a), b): After three platinum closing something right while maintaining
a semi pulling a loop 2 at the neck of platinum while simultaneously lowering the needle
down. Over the yarn guide 4 is taken yarn.

3. Pressing c): Pressing is not operated by the press as flat cooling Cotton machine, but
this phase takes place with pins that language with its closure in the head pin allows the
smooth transfer of half loop over the head pins. Because this phase is called crimping
presses running for a role I have the tab to its closing and opening. In other words, the
moment of closing the language is analogous to closing peaks of needles and therefore
it is here called the work by "pressing".
Semi-loop is located in a closed language, and the head pin is placed lock of yarn.

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4. insertion yarn curls and transfer of semi loop c), d): Starting the needle still laid
down a new yarn coming in the head pins c), a semi-closed loop 2 of the tab. Platinum
was released half a loop. Needles are still run down d) so that half loop passes over the
head pin.



Figure 7.3. Process of creating a loop at the Cotton machine





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Figure 7.4. The process of creating loops on the left-left-machines

5. Linking d): Lowering the needle still down half a loop running through the newly
formed curl and links. Of the newly created locks now generated half loop, a half loop of
the previous loop.

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6. Wet d): A moment of weft occurs when the semi-loop, loop now, running through the
new loop created sex.

7. Refusal d): This procedure takes place practically at the same time as cooling.
Refusal to promote platinum semi loops which are moving forward. Release of half loops
of needle loop occurs.



Figure 7.5. The process of creating loops on circular knitting machines
with latch needles and a needle bearing

8. Format d): With further lowering the needle a half loop is completely pulled and
tightened, and thus forms a new loop in a certain size.

9. Drawing d): After completing the design and the tension created a new loop line will
be withdrawn from the needle. Withdrawal of twists and extraction, is achieved with a
device for the withdrawal of twists.
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7.4. The process of creating loops on the right-right
circular knitting machines with latch needles

1. Closing a), b), c): At the time of closing plated pins an move forward so that their
heads are above the bumper edge (ridge) 3, a needle cylinder 1 currently suspended.
Half loop two starts to open latch needle.
Further movement of belleville needles (b) the right, or forward half loop comes to open
latch needles. At the same time cylindrical needle go up so that
Half loop found at the beginning of open tabs above bowl. Disk and cylinder needles are
simultaneously moving (C) so that half loop 2 find the open tabs and above the edge of
the ridge 3, or 4 .

2. Laying Yarn d), e): Over the yarn guide 5 is taken the yarn to the first language of
needles in the needle cylinder when they begin to descend down. Half loops are on the
disk body and cylindrical
pins. Further lowering the cylinder needles and the withdrawal plated pin back half loops
come to below open tabs needle (s).

3. Pressing f): Cylindrical pins with the passing yarn needles in his head down and
continue downwards until half loop closes the latch needle characterized the working
processes of pressing. Disk needles are also being set back.

4. Adoption and transfer of half loops f): The moment half loops the cylindrical needle
passed through the head needles, plates, needles are starting to pull back and there by
closing tabs Belleville needles under half loop action. Newly laid yarn, or locks, are
applied to the head pins.

5. Connectivity, and the refusal cooling f), g):
Cylindrical pins are still down -down until newly laid yarn half loop not pull through. Tom
occurs during the connection, and the refusal weft half loop, and now the newly created
loop. When cylinder needles do not move out, begin to recede plated pins with the same
procedures take place as with cylindrical pins.

6. Format h): After refusing to half loops Belleville needle cylinder needles start
something up to reduce tension emerging loops.
New loops are tightened and shaped by the new half loop particular size. Depend on this
uniform appearance twists.

7. Drawing h): Newly loops were created on both needle bearings must now draw
using the device for the withdrawal of knitwear.

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Figure 7. 6. The process of creating loops on the right-right circular
knitting machines with latch needles

7.4.1. Analysis of the position half loop and loops
in the process of right-right twists

In right-right circular knitting machines the process of creating the loop can be done
without segmentation and distribution. Usually the second mold pins (flatly) circular
knitting machine set at an angle of 90
o
to the base of needle-shaped cylinder.We'll
discuss the process of creating a circular loop of knitting machine, in getting the right
- right twists to the following stages: initial position, closing the cylindrical pin, closing
plated pins, taking the input, pressing, coating, and the creation of the overthrow of the
cooling on cylinder needles, distribution and extraction. The initial position of both
needles bearing needle we can consider matching the setting of internal points of their
hooks at the level of repulsive plane I - I and II - II, created by the edges of the cylinder
parts 1 and 2 bearing needle disk (Figure 7.7, a), corresponding to the end of the draw.
In closing right-right machine needles both bearing needle, runs always
sequenced. Usually the first loop starts the process of creating a needle cylinder, rising
to close earlier than needles bearing needle disk. 2.5 t (t-step machine needle or
needles). Provided, however, aim, move the needle cylinder earlier by approximately
(1.5 Acceleration or deceleration of the closure procedure of cylindrical pins, with right-
right machine, it is because, in order to switch tabs half loops with needles when closing
was performed on both bearing needle separately, thus protecting half loop of wear, and
enables the production of fabrics with a more balanced loop structure.
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In figure 7.7, b shows the complete closure of Belleville needles at certain
overtaking. At that point, the needle cylinder is already run down. There is also shown
yarn guide 3, which retains its lower side latch needle cylinder from self-closing in the
process of laying the yarn on needles. With Figure 7.8 we can calculate the distance at
which will be dismissed from the corresponding repulsive half loop plane.

, ) (
r i
tg d a z + =
where: a - the width of the working edge of the upper reservoir of needles,
d
i
- thick body of the pin,

r
- reduced friction angle.
To distance z be as small as possible, it is assumed that
a = 0.4 0.5mm, rounding your edge radius r = 0.2 0.3 mm.
When the machine knitting knitwear with a maximum length of the loop, then at the
end of the closure, the distance between the plane and end the repulsive language
should be equal to 0.5
mah
for both the disk and the cylindrical pin. When you are done
pressing you are done pressing, coating,
overthrow and imprisonment, Saucer needle remains in the same place (Figure 7.7,c).
This reduces the excess forces acting on half loop, since in this case the process of
creating a loop on the needle cylinder and Saucer flowing sequenced.
In right-right cylinder circular knitting machines needles can be distinguished as two
repulsive plane I-I and III - III. Weft yarn and create a new loop is done in relation to
the repulsive plane III - III, which was created horizontally positioned plate needles, wh
en the repulsion is half loop plane I-I, which coincides with the upper edge of the cylind-
der. Taken and the depth of weft
mah
h will be calculated after the plane III - III.
The existence of the distribution of right-right circular knitting machines means that
the cylindrical pins weft length
mah
of yarn, from which you can then create a distribution
as a result of two loops of length. In this case, the cylinder is called the active bearing
needle and Saucer - Idle.
In active bearing needle in terms of knitting, there is a maximum length of the loop
mah
and the maximum depth of weft.
4 5 . 0
2 2
t h mah
mah
= ,

but, as it follows from Figure 7.7, c:
,
0 0
h c d h
k mah
+ + =
where d
k
- thick cylindrical needle hooks,

0
h - the distance from the top of the cylinder to the inner needlepoint hooks,
C
o
- established a maximum distance between the needle bearings.


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Figure 7.7. Scheme to create loops with right-right circular knitting machines



Figure 7.8. Raising half loops behind the cylinder needles

By reducing the distance co can change suddenly in the depth of weft systems of all
knitting machines, which are commonly used in circular knitting machines right-right
, balancing above expression we get:
. 4 5 . 0
0
2 2
0
d c t h mah =

Distribution of needles shared disk in half a double loop, previously created by the
needle cylinder. Distribution reduce yarn tension during the final creation of the loop and
enables production of fabrics with uniformed loop structure. In figure 7.7, d shows the
end of the distribution.
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When the distribution of cylindrical pins should first be raised (released), and plated
pin to go toward its center. Then, the cylindrical pins again get real (flatten) to create the
depth of weft
r
h . As a result, the depth of weft the needle cylinder will be the same as
the needle-plated bearing needle.
Since the distribution of plated pins go to their center, is obtained at the same depth of
weft
r
h that we need to calculate the repulsive plane II - II. To determine
r
h the opinion,
that the previously created junction double the maximum length, equally distributed
among the needles of the cylinder and disk the distribution line r r , set at an angle of
45
0
to plated bearing needle plane. Then the established maximum distance from c
0
the
triangle 1 - 2 3 is the intercept:
. 42 , 1
45 sin
2 1
0
0
0
c
c
= =

Half of the intercept 1-0 = 0.71c
0
. On the other hand, since the loop is double the length
of the distribution divided in half, then from Figure 7.7, d:


0
2 2
71 . 0 5 . 0 c h t
r
mah + = .

where the depth of weft in allocating


0
2 2
71 . 0 5 . 0 c t l h mah
r
= .

When complete distribution, cylinder and disk needle cross-outs. Drawing is done ,
when the inner needle point hooks and bearing needle both come to the level of their
repulsive plane (Figure 7.7, a). In this loop, was overthrown with needles, collected
within the cylinder acting mechanism twists outs. After the extraction process of creating
a loop is repeated.

7.5. The process of creating loops on right-right
weft machines Cotton
On figure7.9 presents the creation of loops on right-right weft Cotton machine with
pointed needles. The process of creating the loop is identical to creating a loop on right-
left cooling Cotton machine .Needles are one bearing needle placed vertically, a needle
bearing needle other, horizontally. Needles of both bearing needle are sealed in lead
spills (Figure 7.9) is shown only on horizontal wires).
Platinum with your nose run wefting cross peaks in front of needles a).Half loop
is located on the body of the needle is in contact with the repellent platinum. In the minds
of horizontal pins (second mold needles) are half loop.
Cooling platinum now withdrawn b), and bearing needle with vertical needles is lowered
down so that the lock of the newly inserted underneath the tops of peaks of needles in
the head pin, and half loop using subtractive platinum carried over the head of the
needle and pull through the newly formed curt, which now definitely becomes half loop
and previous half loop finally moved to the newly formed loop. At the same time
horizontal pins go forward, go forward cooling curls toward the head pin b) and inserted
into the head pin c). Half loop comes on top of the needle peak, as the press made
pressing the tops of peaks needle in the bowl, and further moving the needle backward,
half loop goes over your head and pull the needle through the established tress, of which
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definitely occurs semi loop.
In this way the complete process of creating loops on both needles bearing needle.



Figure 7.9. Right-Right Cotton machine-with the important stages of creating a loop

7.6. The process of creating a circular loop
on weft machines

The process of creating a circular loop at cooling machines (right-left) is analogous
to creating a loop on Cotton right-left weft machines .This machine is known as
"French weft circular machines. At one time the machine was abandoned, but later
improved with additional devices for sampling.

The process of creating the loop on this machine can best be understood and seen in
relation to other machines.

1. Finishing a), b): The head of a pin is brought half loop with repulsive platinum
third Dismissed platinum retreated back and repulsive four wheel refuses half loop the
body pins b).

2. Laying yarn c): With the yarn guide 6 yarn is laid in front of the tops of peaks
needles, and weft platinum five starts moving downward.

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3. Wefting yarn c), d): dismissed three platinum goes forward and pushed toward the
head pin half loop c). Weft platinum 5 with its motion downwards is weft newly laid yarn
d).


Figure 7.10. The process of creating a circular loop weft machine

4. Entering e): This operation consists in the introduction weft curls in the head by the
platinum pins with their movement down the left. Platinum guard have moved forward.

5. Pressing f): With seven presses pressed the tips of needles peaks, and any refusal
platinum pushed forward toward the peak half loop pins. Immediately, press 7, which is a
circle, the top hooks nozzle needles in a glass.

6 .Causing g): The refusal half loop platinum slip on closed-top hooks needle, and press
it immediately pulls up.

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7. Connecting g): This operation is actually connecting half loops with the newly formed
curls.
8. Refusal g): Rebound platinum and still supports the transfer and refusal half loops the
newly formed curl.

9. Format g): By introducing the newly formed half loops tress comes to the final design
and the newly formed loop half loops.

10. Drawing h): Rebound platinum and still works on half loop, weft platinum release the
newly formed curl, now half loop, and a device for withdrawal of newly knitted loop finally
pulls down to half loop could lead to the smooth body of needles, which is also the
beginning of a new formation of the loop. This phase is the final and also the initial
phase of completion.


Figure 7.11. Weft circular knitting device refusal

In figure 7.11 is given in a circular pattern on knitting weft
pointed needles-France machine. Pins are radial
arranged in a circular wreath. Set of equipment necessary
Knitting a loop order, call knitting system.
With the help of a circular press 1 pressed the tips third
peaks of needles 3. See the moment that the needle
pushed down. Use repellent point 2 is the failure to half
loops or loop.

7.7. The procedure of knitting loops on
The knitting machine with warp
pointed needles

The process of creating loop based on knitting machines Chain turned-also takes
place in several stages and the tempo. The process of knitting is related to non knitting
mode. In this mode, creating a loops sequence is also the same, and the knitting
ways;the difference lies in that each needle gets his move from the warps through pitting
needle or perforated needles, which are cast in lead spills and placed on a rail that is
Leg called rails, or guide warp yarn.
In figure 7.12 shows the operation or the process of creating a loop on the basis
of knitting machine with needles pointed at obtaining simultaneous loops on all needles
bearing needle.

1.Closing a), b): This stage is often referred to as completion. Pin 1 is in the final bottom
position. Half loop 2 is located in the head of a pin. Platinum 3 is movement downward,
and the needle upward, so that affected half loop leads to horizontal position b). At the
same time pitting needle exceeds 4 moves to the right. During the time half loop be
retained in the neck platinum needle is still starts up.

2. Laying warp yarn c), d) and e): This whole procedure consists of depositing a new
laid warps cross over the tops of peaks needles. 4 extends the laying movement toward
the center of the machine, cutting line needle-nose needles. When the guide front rails
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find the Leg 2-3mm distance from the head of needles, that is, when maximum distance,
tiles made turning right or left for one or more steps ahead of the needle needles.
Then pin-perforated -tiles extend the movement in the opposite direction from the
machine cutting off another line perforated needles leg rails. Platinum in the process of
laying the yarn are fixed e).


Figure 7.12. Warp Chain knitting machines with working stages

3. Entering curls e), f): The aim of torque input to be laid yarn, or curl, places below the
peak head pin. Because the needle is lowered down).

4. Pressing f), g): The essence of the moment of pressing lies in the fact that the
compressed peaks -peaks needles in glass that could be freely transferred from half
loop body of the pin through the head pin. Press 5 moves forward or the figure on the
left, the needle is lowered down, platinum the move left or released back to half
loop which is located in the neck platinum. Press finally pressed spikes needle g) and
simultaneously withdraws the right, the needle is pulled down and come to the front half
loop closed needle peaks.

5. Transferring h): With further lowering the needle down, half loop the slip-on closed-
top peak needles, and platinum is moving left or forward contributory half loops switching
overhead pin. Press the distances to the center of the machine.

6. Connecting s): At this stage half loop switches over the head of a needle and passed
through the newly formed curl. Linking occurs at the moment when the needle head
find in the amount of platinum chest.

7. Wefting s): Wefting practically non-existent in warp knitting machines it was in
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Cotton machines, however, since the new yarn is laid in the process wraps loop creation,
this procedure is here called cooling.

8. Refusal s): This procedure takes place at the moment half loops the head of
needles. In that moment when the head pins are just below the upper edge platinum half
loop newly created curls and eventually become a loop.

9. Format s): The needle is lowered and further down by to the top of the head pin is
below the upper edge platinum. At the same time, half loop moved through
new designed for hair and definitely shaped in a loop. Loop size depends on the size of
the base and tightening trawl devices lowering the size of a needle below the edge-
platinum belly, the distance between the back of needles and neck platinum.

10. Announcing s):Half loop the new Loop, pull up a device for withdrawal yarn and
winding the goods returned. In the process withdrawal twists platinum move something
back and down to tightening down he new loop would not much weakened. Having
drawn a line loop, starts new process of creating a new order of the loop.


7.8. The process of creating loops on warp
knitting machines right- right pointed needles

In figure 13.7 shows the process of creating a loop at the right-right warp knitting
machine with pointed needles (guide) known as "Simplex". The process of creating the
loop is the same as creating a loop on the right-left warp knitting machine with needle-
pointed "Chain". The only difference is the number of needle bearings. On the front
needle creates loops in the face, and the last needle in the reverse.
In the minds of needle 1, figure 7.13, a), there are half loops. Platinum (sinker) 2
retains its nose loop created by the needle front bearing needle. Press 3 and 4 warp
yarns guide at rest. In the following procedure b) draw tiles and lay in front of the cross
peaks -peaks needles. Pitting needle (guide) continues its movement and wraps yarn
around the needle warp c), after which the yarn from slipping from the top of the needle
and the peak rush hour comes before the body of the needle d).Now the action comes
three presses, moving forward is), is compressed peaks-peaks needles, and platinum
facilitates the transfer of half loop on the head pin. The head pin is a new yarn is laid in
the form of locks.
Press the Left withdraws and is now back in front of needle-nose needle bearing
needles. On the front needle half loop at the end of the head pin, where it continues the
transfer and crawling through a new landscape tress, where connectivity occurs, forming
loops and its withdrawal from the needles. This creates a loop on the front right pins.
process of creating loops on the back needle is the same, the difference is only in the
loop that is seen in reverse.

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Figure 7.13. The process of creating loops on the left-right straight weft machine with
a pointed needle "Simplex"
1 - Needle, 2 - Mixed platinum, 3 - Press, 4 Pitting needle (guide).

7.9. The process of creating loops on the right-left warp
knitting machine with a grooved needle "Malimo "

Process of creating a loop on the machine Malimo runs in stages. Instead of needle-
nose or needle tongue-flower, here we have the so-called gutter pins on his body that
have a groove or channel in which slides a bolt pin 2, which closes its movement forward
the top hook pin.
The idea to construct such a machine- machine designers have come when recording
process of creating loops on Chain machine. Recording were performed with a video
camera for quick recording. On this occasion they could see each separate phase in the
process of creating a loop and is generally required that the machine has a tapered
needles, and press. Thus came the idea to construct a grooved needle in the gutter in
which his body was able to slide a needle or pin lock that its motion to close the needle
hook-hook needles. He actually plays the role of press, or tab.
In the process of closing a) the needle hook is half loop below which shows the third
loop the needle starts moving forward.
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Figure 7.14. Warp knitting machines
Malimo" with grooved pins

1 - slotted pin, 2 - shutter pins (needles),
3 - loop, 4 - dismissed platinum, 5 - pin
for supporting (support), 6 - rail
compliance (prop); 7 - guide warp
(pitting needle).

Guide yarn goes up.
Laying warp yarn b), c).
With the help needle perforated 7 is to
begin wrapping yarn around the hook
needle, which is now also moving down in
order to fully able to wrap the hook needles
c). On which the laying of the yarn, the
needle is now pulls back so that the newly
laid yarn formed in the tress, the zipper
closes the top of the needle hooks needle
so that the half loop put the barb needles,
that is, the bolt pin. Dismissed platinum
supports spraying half loop the barb
needles. At the same time and the needle
and pull the zipper back d.
With the help of dismissing the platinum
half loop finally placed it over his head and
pull the needle through the newly created
lock of yarn. Needle valves are again
moving forward e), after which arise other
operations, we have been repeatedly
reported in the process of creating a
loop. In figure b), c) and d) is clear in which
position is located rails and pins to
support. Their position in the final phase e)
is the initial a).

7.10. The process of creating
loops of warp knitting
machine with latch
needles Raschel

Process of creating a loop at the Raschel machine, we share in 10 procedures. Would
particularly like to mention that the number of stages varies in different countries. In
Germany it takes 12 procedures, England 6, Russia 10, and with us. But we can
describe the procedures and 6, because in one procedure can be described by two
steps or phases. The whole procedure takes place in an instant.
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Figure 7.15. The process of creating loops on the right-left warp
Raschel knitting machine with latch needles


1. Closing a): The hook needle 1, or head, there is a half loop 2 at the level of the top
edge of ridges repellent, or comb, and the impact plate 3 in a horizontal position.
Between the end of the open tabs and line impact plate 3 should have a distance of 2 to
3 mm in order to have room for half loop. Pin 1 starts moving upward.

2. Laying yarn b), c) and d): Yarn is taken with perforated pin 5 on the language of
needles d). The number of perforated needles in one leg rail is equal to the number of
knitting needles. The proper deposit of the yarn depends primarily on quality of the
produced fabric and the degree of disruption of the warp yarn. Laying primarily depends
on the proper distribution of knitting organs tongue-flower and interaction perforated and
knitting needles. For the period of creation of a loop line pitting needles made two
movements-b): curvilinear movement, turning the needles in the arrow-c), turning in front
of the needle to the left or right for one or more needle sites in the direction-d). The time
when the cross head pins must take a 2 / 3 hole perforated plate. Perforated pin at the
time of laying must be found for such a distance from the needle to turn the leg-rails and
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perforated needle, the needle would hit each perforated with needles (guide). It is
therefore important to find the correct needle perforated the needles.
That the blades would not be closed due to inertia, and to be able to smoothly pass
the yarn over the needle of open tabs serve a fourth thrusting comb.

3. Entering curls s): The essence of the moment of entry consists in the fact that laid
yarn enters the heads of needles. Because the bearing needles with needle moves
down ward.

4, Pressing f): At the Raschel machine, as well as on other machines with latch
needles, crimping is performed by opening and closing tabs needles. This point is
executed when falling reservoir needles. The head pin is a new landscape for hair yarn,
while the half loop on a closed tab.

5. Wefting g): Weft is done in the further lowering of the bearing needle until the needle
head comes up to the top of the repellent ridge and impact plate.

6. Refusal g): Refusal half loop with the needle comes at a moment when the needle
head lowered just below the

7. Format g): The formation of a new laid yarn, now locks, a new half loop, and the
previous second half loop loop. Loop size depends on three main factors: tension warp
yarns, the degree of lowering of the head of needles under the edge of the comb
repellent and tension knitwear. To change the size of the loop, and consequently density
fabric, it is important to change the size of tightening fundamentals. To obtain a higher
density of knitting (lower loop) warp tension should be reduced.

8. Announcing g): to extract half loop under the influence of the drawing force, the
horizontal position of the loop from coming into the vertical position. Needles are slightly
lifted upward to a height repellent comb.

7.11. The process of creating loops on the right- left
warp knitting machine Raschel

The process of creating loops on the left-right Raschel machine runs the same order as
the right-left Raschel machine. The only difference is the number of needle bearing. On
the front needle creates loops in the face in a closed laying (site loop intersects), and the
last needle in an open loop reverse the laying (site loop to by pass).
The loops are first created in the front needle 1, which held in place b four pins (Figure
7.16-a)). The head pin is a half loop. Slot on the needles lowered down. 3 of the pendul
um guide is moving left, right and b) to laying warp yarn in the open language needles
two rear needle bearing. Front needle go up and back down.
Further lowering the needles past c) the heads of needles to create a new landscape
locks, a half loop is in closed needle second language Needles bezel 1 is still moving
upward.
Now the needle is lowered back up, half loop, the loop now, they are transferred over
the head of needles and squeezed through the newly formed hair of which creates a
new half loop.
At the same time the front two pins, droop down, half loop below the open latch, a
depositor three graded pass into the heads of pins, move left of the pendulum continues
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to be enveloped yarn around the needle to create curls in the front pins on which the
further proceedings create a loop on the face of the closed laying.



Figure 7.16. The process of creating loops on the left-right knitting
Raschel machine with latch needles

7.12. The process of creating loops of warp
knitting machine "Coquette" with grooved pins

Process of creating a loop on the machine Coquette, regardless of changes in the
structure of needles and lack of press, we share also in ten procedures or stages to
create a loop, i.e. door leaf order loop.
In figure 7.18 shows the plot developments knitting bodies in order to create a loop.
1. Closing a), b): A moment of closure is executed turning the main shaft machines
40o (Figure 7.18). The mutual arrangement of knitting machines in the initial body
moment of closing a) takes place with the turn of the main shaft machines
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20
o
. The body of the needle from a lower position comes in position to head the
needle found in the upper level edge of platinum. The head pin is a half
loop. One end of the half loop is associated with the loop from the previous order,
and the other end with a warp yarn needle perforation. Fastener pins in the lower
position. needle perforated the ranging from the machines, the maximum is
moving away from needles. During this time pitting the needles turn to perform
one or more needle sites, taking the exit position of create a new order
loop. Platinum is the maximum moved forward to allow unrestricted movement
needles. Further by turning the main shaft machines 40
o
head pin comes to the
top of the platinum b).Half loop is retained platinum nose and moves to the body
pins. Zipper, fitter and platinum are fixed.
2.


Figure 7.17. The process of creating loops on the right-left warp knitting
machine "Coquette" with grooved pins



Figure 7.18. Graphic Trends knitting machine bodies "Coquette" in
the process of creating loops
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Figure 7.19. Mutual position of the gutter pins and needles pitting) and the path of
movement of the head gutters needles in relation to platinum b).

2. Laying c), d), e)): A moment of taking the cross executes the spin machine main
shaft of 400 - 200
o
. The body of the needle is raised to maximum height (170). Tiles
made movement toward the center of the machine cutting off a line of needles (c), d)). At
the time of passage perforated needle knitting needle between the head pin must closes
lower half hole perforated needle (Figure 7.19, a)). When needle perforated a maximum
away from the needle (180
o
) of the same made a turn for a needle-step e), and moves
in opposite direction-f). At that point, the yarn is passed Body pins. With the turn of the
main shaft of machine 170 190
o
to get the needle moving in slow motion, to spin the
main shaft from 190
o
to 200
o
re-started to descend down.

3. Enter g): This moment is running spin main shaft of the machine from 200
o
to 220
o
.
Needles are still down below. Needle perforated cut line tubular needles and extend the
movement from the machine. Newly laid yarn is not off the needles because the retains
the upper edge of the nose platinum. Platinum is now pulls back to the center of the
machine.

4. Pressing h): This moment is running spin main shaft machine from 220
o
to
260o. Needles are still down below. Zipper needle is raised to the maximum closing the
top level hooks needles. With this top of the head needle into the gutter or groove
closures. Platinum increases moving toward the center of the machine and their
chest raises half loop toward the head pin.

5. Transferring h): spin machine from the main shaft 260
o
to 275
o
platinum increases
moving toward the center machine and their chest is applied to the half loop
fastener pins. Tiles extend from the movement of machinery, and valves are moving
downward.

6. Connecting s): spin the main shaft of the machine to 280
o
pin and a fastener
extending movement App. In moment when the head pin down to the top of the
chest platinum, half loop (loop now) is associated with new created curls. Platinum is
moving towards the center of the machine. Drilled pin extending from the movement of
the machine.

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7. Wefting s): With further lowering the needle down the new half loop runs through the
traps in the form of a loop.

8. Refusal j): Platinum comes in the final last position (290
o
). Pin and bolt down below
the top of the chest platinum (sinker). The loop with the shutter rejecting the newly
formed curl-half loop, which is is the head of a pin.

9. Format j): Slotted or wrap around the needle extends downward movement of the
shaft rotation to 320
o
. The length of a loop depends on the depth of descent of the
needle abdomen below the edge of platinum and the distance between the
back platinum needle and neck tension at the time rejected the new loop.

10. Announcing j), a): For further revolution of the main machine back to 360 . Groove
pin down to maximum lower position and the extended transfer perforated needles and
platinum from the machine-a).

The path of movement of the head gutter pins (dashed line) compared to platinum is
shown in figure 7.19- b).

7.13. The basic elements of knitting machines based on
knitting machines with needle-pointed and Tongue

Basics of knitting machine with one needle bar (right-left) can be equipped with a pointed
needle Chain Machine (Tricot), with tongue-needles (Raschel) and a tubular needle
(Coquette).
In figure 7.20 gives an overview on eccentric movement with the knitting machines
pointed needles with a diagram of movement without a common mechanism (s) and
eccentric movements of the diagram with a common mechanism (c).
In figure 7.21, and gives the appearance of the mechanism of the machine, under (b)
shows appearance of needle-nose pins sealed in a lead segment in (c) appearance
tubular needles that are used to Coquette machines, (d) karabiner needle, (e) platinum,
(f) platinum with lead segment-section, (g) appearance needle perforated with lead segm
ent.
Figures in (h) shows the path of movement of needles-perforated tiles.
The paper machine in three-stroke operation, when the creation of a loop of order
three participating glider is shown in figure 7.22 with a graphic display interlacement
combined.

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Figure 7.20. Eccentric movement of the charts without a common and
common mechanism

a) b) c)



d) e)
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f) g)

h)


I (A=1mm; B= 0,8mm) j (A=1mm; B=4mm) k


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l
Figure 7.22. The mechanism of the machine (s) with elements of knitting machines (b) to
(h) and element adjustment-l machine




Figure 7.23. The control mechanism with three pace

7.14. Sampled panel

Based on knitting machines can be carried out sampling and sampled over the board
with which you can achieve much higher speed compared to knitting command
mechanisms with the glider. In addition to the benefits of these boards have their own
shortcomings, namely, the product is intended for only one interlacement and any error
that may occur in the process of knitting is not possible to remove, and any repairs are
generally not worth it.
Because sampling is much more practical with the chain because the chain can
assemble several types Interlacement, which is an advantage of this way of sampling
today. In figure 7.24 shows the sampled plates depicting the passing yarn to create one
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row of loops. Figure 7.25 shows the mechanism to do the sampling plate with perforated
needles warp yarn.
In figure 7.26 give the diagram of movement of needles, presses, platinum and
traveled through the tiles with degrees S and main shaft speed machines in the process
of creating one row of loops.
Figure 7.27 shows a diagram of movement of the working arched (sunroof) with the
needle stopper Coquette machine.
Figure 7.28. diagram shows the movement of the working of the machine with the
tongue-Raschel machine needles.



Figure 7.24. Sampled panel
1-laying over, two under-taking; 3-swing back, four-momentum forward



Figure 7.25. Needle perforated-device turn-Direct sampling
1-sampled panel, 2-wheel, 3-arm, 4-needle perforated, 5-spring


1 loops of row
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Figure 7.26. Diagram of movement of the working machine with needle-pointed-Tricot
machine Chain (Ketenschtul)



Figure 7.217Diagram of movement of the working machines
needle-arched coquet

1- Diagram of movement arched needle,2-motion diagram tiles, three-movement diagr-
am shutter-needles, 4-turn move-reflective and platinum; 1'-end of a curve;2'- laying
stage below; 3' close arched needles , end off.


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Figure 7.28. Diagram of movement of the working machines
with tongue-needle-Raschel


8. Analysis and design of action yarn and thread
their movement in the process of knitting

For further understanding of the theoretical analysis of the process of creating a loop
and the behavior of yarns and threads in the process of knitting with knitting machines
authorities will consider first the analysis and design of action yarn.
Textile fibers is called a thin, elastic and rigid body great length, made both from the
linked fiber, useful for making textile products. Thread can be made from relatively short
fibers, coupled twist (yarn), or a bundle of elementary filaments, also linked twist
(complex thread). This is caused by any structure anisotropy, that is, inequality of
physical properties in different directions and the heterogeneity of the different layers of
the intersection.
In the analysis, calculation and design of devices that interact with the thread and
yarn, are allowed relatively simplistic assumptions of their properties.
First of all we will assess assumptions concerning the thickness of the yarn. In most
cases we can count that the thickness of the yarn infinitely small. By determining the
A.P. Minakov, yarn is a material line, which under the influence of external forces can
take any form. In some cases, such as the movement of the yarn, the necessity of
participation of torque created by the forces of friction, it is necessary to take into
account the thickness of the yarn.
The second group of assumptions relates to the phenomenon of forces and moments
in cross section, which can lead to the main vector of forces and the main point. The
main vector of internal forces can be broken down into force, aimed at a tangent to the
axis of the yarn and the transverse force, which lies in a normal plane. Analogous to the
main torque acting on the torque along the tangent and curved (bent) in a normal
plane. By qualifying A.P. Minakov yarn is divided into the following groups:
ideal elastic thread (there is only the force along the tangent);
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Yarn, elastic bending (overall main torque split to the normal level);
Yarn, elastic torsion (moment of total capital deployed along the tangent).
The third group of authorization related to the deformation of the yarn.
If the length of any element of the yarn axis remains unchanged, then we call the
cross no elastic. Otherwise, if we speak, that the yarn is stretchable.
Depending on, changing the shape of the cross-section, it can be deformed and no
deformity. Deformation can be considered only in the case, if we move from the final
thickness.
According to the above general permission, in solving concrete problems, we must
make assumptions, which we will further describe the features of the yarn. For example,
the elastic yarn, it is necessary to know the dependence of tensile strain, twist angle and
duration of action force, the elastic yarn bending, depending on the bending moment-
curvature axis of the yarn, the elastic yarn-spinning on the dependence of torque and
angle twist tension.

8.1. Euler and Lagrange arc coordinates
Described developments in the primary axis of the yarn produced two different ways
depending, as we determine the position of the axis points.
The first method consists in the fact that along with yarns consider without inertial no
tensile channel, whose movement is different from the movement of longitudinal axis of
the yarn structure. The position of the axis points to determine the distance, counting
down through the canal from the beginning, were deployed in the channel. In this way,
( ) t s,

= means in such a manner described, the speed of the yarn axis point, which is
at the moment of time that points in space with coordinate s. This way of describing the
movement of the yarn is called Euler, and coordinates with- Euler and an
coordinates. Longitudinal component of the velocity channels are calculated with an
accuracy to a function of time, which determines the choice of beginning Tracing. In
special cases, the movement of the channel may be such as to speed the start Tracing
is congruent with the speed of some points of the axis of the yarn.
Another way to describe it is assumed the measured parameters of movement for
each count of the yarn axis as a function of time t. Let some point cross the axis differs
from others in the coordinate . Then we find all the dimensions, which characterize the
movement as a function of the variables and t. In this manner of describing a vector

( , t) at fixed denotes the speed of moving in space completely certain point axis.
Coordinate is called .
In most cases, as the coordinates of we choose Euler coordinate points in space, in
which the cross point is at any moment of time, e.g. t = 0.
If we accept the choice Lagrange coordinates , it will be easy to calculate the
position of the point over to the time axis t 0 Let the speed of point-axis cross over the
canal. Then






Here s = s (, t)-coordinates (Euler) at the time that this point of time axis, which at the
moment of time t = 0 is located at the point with coordinates s= .
( ) . t , u
t
0
dt s

+ =
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In this way, the previous formula establishes a connection between Lagrange coordi-
nate the yarn count and its Euler coordinates of s.
Let F (s, t)-any features in Euler coordinates, and F
l
(, t) also represents a function
in Lagrange coordinates. Then according to the formula given

F[ + ( ) ] ( ). t , , t ,
0

l
t
F t dt u =


Differencing at time t, we get

( ) ( ) ( ) . / , / , / , s t s F u t t s F t t F
l
+ =

Further more, as is accepted in Continuum Mechanics, all sizes denoted with the
same letters in both the Euler an and in Lagrange screening.Then, to avoid the
intricacies of (confusion) size ( ) t t F
l
/ ,
denote ( ) . / , dt t dF when such indications formula receives the form

( ). / / / s F u t F dt dF + =

Size of dF / dt is the full statement at the time of the function F.

Weight yarn, closed the channel, the limited sections s
0
= s (
0
, t), s = s (, t)
remains constant in time, then we can write

( ) , d ) ) , (
) , (
, (
0
0 0
const m ds t s m
t s
t s
= =


where m (s, t) - longitudinal weight yarn, M
0
() - longitudinal weight yarn at time t = 0.

By differentiating the expressions in the variable , we get

( ) ( ) ( ) , , / t ,
0
f t m m s = =

Since m (s (, t), t) = m (, t). Here is f -the f-function, which characterizes the physical
properties of the yarn.

It follows that the display coordinates Lagrange the Euler with each other in the
unambiguous terms of m (, t) 0.
Euler coordinate at the moment of time t (initial term) can be rewritten as a ratio
of forces
( ) ( ). , t , s t u t =

From the last formula arises given that the transition from Euler coordinates s, t by
Lagrange , t gives the ratio

( ) dt u d t f ds t , ) , ( + = .
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In the study of interaction with the surface of the yarn, one of the main tasks
occurs, determining the position of the curve, along which the moving yarn.
Then described the movement of the yarn is suitable to run using Euler coordinates.

8.2. Natural and principal axis

In the study of behavior cross will introduce different coordinates, of which one fixed
Cartesian 0x yz with unit vectors . , ,
_ _ _
k j i if the yarn can move in space, it will cross
the axis of coordinates of the points x, y, z coordinates of the arc appear to function
(all, if you do not confirm contrary, we mean Euler an coordinate) and time t.

x = x (s, t); y = y(s, t); z = (s, t).

These three equations determine the equation of the curve in parametric form.
They are equivalent to one vector equation:
( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) , , , , ,
_ _ _ _ _
k t s z j t s y i t s x t s r r + + = =
where
_
r the diameter of the yarn axis vector points are given for s and t .
From differential geometry is known, that the derivative

From differential geometry is known, that the derivative
s z k s y j s x i s r / / / /
_
_
_
_ _
+ + + =

own a unit vector, directed at a tangent to the axis of the yarn. With every point M, which
lies on the axis connecting the rectangular coordinate system, whose beginning
coincides with the point and the tangent-axis, the main normal and to normal
(Figure 8.1) mark by
_ _
, i the O ort

principal normal and to normal. Conducted according to the established formula s
of vector Fran
( ) ( ) ( ) ( )
_,
1
_ _
1
_ _ _ _
/ 1 - s / ; / 1 / 1 / ; / 1 / = + = = s s ,

where 1 / -curves, and 1 /
1
- twisted axis yarns.
O ort
_ _
i lie in the contact plane, with the ort
_
directed to the side twisted curves.
Ort
_
and
_
; is always directed to the side of increasing arc coordinate s. In the case of
reverse countdown timer with onions, contrary O ort and changes its direction contrary, a
ort
_
does not change. Certain axis vectors
_
,
_
and
_
, and is called the natural axes.
When researching the movement of yarn, which has a diameter size, we must introduce
introduce another coordinate system rigidly linked to the cross-section, in respect of
which we consider the deformation of the elements of the yarn. Start the
coordinates have to coincide with the center of gravity of the cross-section, one of
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the axis is directed along the axis
_
tangential ort, the other two axis,
characterized by major O ort ,
_
2
_
1
c i c central axis of symmetry. These axes are
called principal axes. The position of the principal axes relative nature, determine the
angle between the O ort .
_
1
_
c i will consider the intersection of yarns in counts
of A and B (Figure 8.2),located at a distance s from each other (the distance along
the axis of the yarn count). During the transition from point A to point B angle
changes the size of . Relationship / s appears yarn twist deformation (as oppos-
ed to the size of 1/
1
-geometrijsko twisting yarn).Sum 1/
1
+ /s determine completely
twisting, which determines the torque, which appears in the yarn.
Yarn can be rotated around its axis and thereby maintain its shape. In this case, the
natural axis will have unchanged directions, if their position fully determines the form
of yarn axis, and the main rotator around ort
_
and the angle will be a function of time.

8.3. Elements of the theory of surface

To date works best way to provide more suitable area is showing in a parametric
representation of surfaces, reciprocal acting with the yarn, which is not in any way real.
It can move along them selves, as in the case of friction spinning, or perform more
complex movement in space, as is the case when the interaction of yarn and knitting
yarn with knitting machines organs.
Movable surfaces in parametric representation is given as three scalar equations

x = x (
1
,
2
, t); y = y(
1
,
2
, t); z = z (
1
,
2
, t)
or a vector
(
_ _
r r =
1
,
2
, t) = ( ) ( ) ( ), , , , , , ,
2 1
_
2 1
_
2 1
_
t kz t y j t x i + =
Where
_
r the diameter of the surface point vector;
1
,
2
- Euler curvilinear
coordinates on the surface.



Figure 8.1. Rectangular coordinate system Figure 8.2. Cross-section at two points
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Since no restrictions on the movement area shall not be installed in the space, time t
can be entered in the previous equation the obvious representation.
Given equation can be rewritten as follows:
( ), , ,
3 2 1
_ _
r r =
where .
3
t =
If we assume that the surface is very smooth, that is, the equation can be
differentiated by any variable as many times as necessary.
Take the ratio of diameter-vector
_
r statement by
1
,
2
,
3
:

( ) ( ) ( )
( ). 3) 2, 1, i ,
, , , , , ,
_
3 2 1
_
3 2 1
_
3 2 1
_
_
= + + = = k
i
z
j
i
y
i
i
x
i
r
i r



We comment on just such an area for which the vectors are not co linear at any point.
Then these vectors define the surface, tangential to the surface. If the movement of the
surface such that any vector of the surface lies in the tangential plane (moving along
the surface itself), then the equation will not go into surface time. Then vector is
t r r /
_
3
= zero.

Write an equation that often goes to meet the surface.

8.3.1. Cylindrical surface

Consider the surface, created by moving straight, parallel to the axis 0z and focusing
curve, arranged in a plane x0y. Equation direction (Figure 8.3) in polar coordinates

R = R (
1
)

where R is the distance from the curve to the origin;

1
-polar angle.



Figure 8.3. Cylindrical surface
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Figure 8 4. Current body size Figure 8 5. Curved surface of the body

Parametric representation will be directed

x = R (
1
)cos
1
; y = R(
1
)sin
1
.

That would have set any point on the surface, it is necessary to give the value of the
parameter
1
, that is, the situation points to the direction and size of
2
, reading along the
creation. Cartesian coordinate points of the surface will express through
1
and
2
.

x = R (
1
) cos
1
; y = R (
1
) sin
1
; z =
2
.

Diameter will receive a form of vector
( ) ( ) ( ) , ,
_
2 1
_
1 2 1
_
k e R r + =
where ( )
_
1
1
_
i e = cos
1
+
_
j sin
1
.

In some tasks, the basic system of coordinates 0XYZ is suitable to choose outside the
cylinder. Then the cylinder axis is necessary to select the point L, which is read from the
coordinate
2
. Diameter-point vector L denote .
_
L R O ort , , ,
_ _ _
k j i Together we are
introducing in the above formula, the axis of the cylinder associated with each other
orthogonal O ort
_ _ _
, , ,
k
k where ort k
_
is directed along the axis of the cylinder to the
side growth
2
coordinates and angular coordinates
1
read of k
_
the side .
_
k
surface
then vector equation can be rewritten as
( ) ( ) . cos ,
_
3
_
1
_
1
_
2 1
_
k
k
L R R r + |

\
|
+ + = =
If the cylinder is moving so that the velocity vector is directed along the surface point
of creation, then the previous equation, the surface will not change. As in the case of
Euler and Lagrange arc coordinates, here we present a special two surfaces: one-
imaginary-real, described penultimate equation, and other real-moving, with each point
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in time the space is on the first surface. Let M-point cylindrical surface with coordinates

1M
,
2M
. If the surface moves along the creation, it will depend on the coordinates
2M

time
2M

2M
= (t).
Velocity vector V points obtained by differencing the diameter of M-vectors in time.

( ) . / k / ,
2
_
2 1
_
dt d dt r d V
M M M M
=
(

=

As the surface moves, solid body, the speed of all the items on the surface will be
equal.
Individual performs
_
r vector-diameter cylindrical surfaces have the form
/ r r =
_
/
1
= R ( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) } ;
1 2 1 1 1 1
e R e + ; . 0 / ; /
3 3 2 2
= = = = r r k r r
where ( ) ( ) ( ) + =
1 1 1 1 2
' ; cos sin R j i e the derivative of R (
1
).

8.3.2. Working area of the body

Will look at the surface, which creates a rotation around the axis 0z (Figure 8.4) of
any curve C, distributed in the plane x0z. Some parametric representation of the curve
C is ( ) ; 0
2
R x = z=z(
2
). The condition R (
2
)> 0 ensures the intersection curve with
a rotating axis. To illustrate the position of any point M on the surface, it is necessary
to determine the value
2
parameter, that is the position of point L on the curve C, and

1
angle at which the curve C has turned around the axis 0z.
Cartesian coordinates of point M and the diameter-vectors received
form
x = R ( ) ; cos
1 2
y = R( ) ; sin
1 2
z = z( );
2
}
( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) } . ,
2 1 1 2 2 1
k z e R r r + = =

If the surface as a whole revolves around the axis 0z, then the equation of the surface
will not change its shape, but coordinates
1M
point M, is tightly linked to rotating surface,
and will depend on the time:
1M
=
1M
(t).
Velocity V point M in this case is determined as

( ) ( )( ) ( ). / / ,
1 2 2 2 2 1 M M M M M M M
e dt d R dt F d V =
(

=
Size d
1M
/ dt is the radial velocity surface.

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Individual performs vector-diameter area of working bodies are a form of
( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) . 0 r ; ' R' r ;
3 2 1 1 2 2 1 2 2 1
= + = = k z e e R r

Here a dash mark running.

8.3.2. Curved surface of the body or shaft

In figure 8.5 suppose to be moving in the space curve C, which has no angular points
and only-Xing, the same parameter can be represented as

x = x ( ) ( ) ( ), , ; , ; ,
2 2 2
t z z t y y t = =

or in vector form
( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) , , , , ,
2 2 2 2
k t z j t y i t x t R R
o o
+ + = =
where R the diameter of vector-point curve;

2
-parameter.

As a parameter
2
, setting the position of points on the curve, can be selected in
different sizes, for example arc length, reading from any fixed point on the curve.
Will look at the surface, a point that is equidistant from the curve C for the size of R. If
we take the surface of Q, contrary to the curve C, then it will intersect the surface of the
scale radius R. That would have set any point on the surface, it is necessary to
determine the value of the parameter
2
, that is, the position of the normal surface Q and
the angle
1
, determining the position of point M on the scale radius R in the plane
Q. Countdown
1
angle should be determined by the direction, determined by curve C,
that is a parameter
2
and time t.
Denote
k
the tangent to the curve O ort (last term). Then the surface Q will be
orthogonal
k
. The plane Q, choose direction, the given O ort
k
.Calculate, that at every
point ort
k
is rigidly connected to the melt C and they moved as a single entity in space.
Angle
1
read
k
opposite hour clockwise. If we look to the vector
k
. Denote the
derivative vector
k
and vector
k
(
k
(
k
=
k
x
k
)). Using the introduced label, the
surface equation can be rewritten in the following manner:

( ) ( ) . sin cos , , ,
1 1 2 2 1
|
|
|
|

\
|
+ + = =
k k o
R t R t r r
Such a surface can be considered as a circular curved surface of the body or shaft,
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movement in space.
Individual performs diameter-vector will r be equal



. sin / cos / / /
; sin / cos / / /
; cos sin /
1 1
3
1 2 1 2 2 2 2
1 1 1 1 1
(

|
|

\
|
+ |

\
|
+ = =
(

|
|

\
|
+ |

\
|
+
(

= =
|
|
|

\
|
+ = =



t t R t R t r r
R R r r r
R r r
k k o
k k o k
k k


Here is taken, the statement
2
/
o
R directed at a tangent to the curve.
Now we introduce the tags for the scalar product of vectors :
j i
r i r
g
ij
= ,
j i
r r ( i, j = 1, 2,3)

We will have in mind, the g
11
, g
12
= g
21
, g
22
appears coefficients of the first square-
shaped surface. Vectors
2 1
r and r lie in the plane tangential to the surface. If every point
of the surface they are mutually orthogonal (i.e, g
12
=g
21
= 0), will the system of
curvilinear coordinates and
1

2
called orthogonal.
The direction of normal to the surface we can choose one of two ways. For
defining counted, that is perpendicular to the surface n ort also directed, as a vector
product ,
2 1
r x r that is
n = ,
2 1
r x r / . ,
2
12 22 11
g g g

It follows that direction ort n depends on the chosen parameterization of the
surface. If
1

2
and change places, it will change its direction vector n in the opposite
position.
Denote

( ) ( ) 3 , 2 , 1 , , , ; ; /
,
2
= = = = k j i G r r b n r r r
ij k ij k ij ij ij j i

.

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(b
11
, b
12
= b
22
-coefficients of the second square area). Abstract g
ij
/
k
can be
expressed through

( ) ( ) 3 , 2 , 1 , , , ; ; /
,
2
= = = = k j i G r r b n r r r
ij k ij k ij ij ij j i

.
G
i, jk
and r G
j, jk
. of this identity by differentiate
k

. /
, , ik i ik j jk i j ik k ij
G G r r r r g + = + =

Vector
ij
r can be broken down into two not collinear vectors ,
2 1
r and r that lie in tangen-
tial plane, and the unit normal vector : n

.
2
2
1
1
n b r G r G r
ij
ij ij
ij
+ + =

With G
1ij
and G
2ij
shows the decomposition of the
2 1
r and r
.
To calculate them, multiply both sides of the equation,

the first with
1
r
, and, second with
2
r
. we get

G
1,ij
= G
2
ij
g
11
+G
2
ij
g
21


G
2,ij
=G
1
ij
g
12
+G
2
ij
g
22
.

Solving this system of equations we get the cylindrical surface
g
11
=
( ) ( ) [ ] ( )
( ). 3 , 2 , 1 ; 0 ; 0
; 1 ; '
3 3 21 12
22 1
2 2
1 1 1
= = = = =
= + =
i g g g g
g R R r r
i i




If we choose the curvilinear coordinates
1
and
2
(cylindrical coordinates) for


the orthogonal, then all vectors
ij
r
will be zero, therefore

( ) ( ) [ ] ( ) . ' 2 ' ' /
2 1 1 1 1 1 1 11
e R e R R r r + = =


Ort normal to the surface

( ) ( ) [ ] . / ' /
11 2 1 1 1 11 2 1
g e R e R g r x r n = =



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Now we find that all the size b
ij
and g
i,jk
of are equal to zero, therefore

( ) [ ]
( ). ' ' '
; / ' 2 ' '
11 1 11 , 1
11
2 2
11 11
R R R r r G
g R R RR n r b
+ = =
= =


Analogously we obtain the following expressions for the surface of the rotating body:

( )
( ). 3 , 2 , 1 0 ; ' ' ' ' /
; ' / ; e R /
3 3 1
2
2
2
22
2 2 1
2
21 12 1
2
1
2
11
= = = + = =
= = = = =
i r r k z e R r r
e R r r r r r
i i




Further we get

g
11
= R
2
; g
22
= (R)
2
+ (z)
2
; g
12
= g
21
= g
i3
= g
3i
= 0 (I = 1,2,3).


Ort normal to the surface

( ) ( ) . / ' ' /
22 1 22 11 2 1
g k R e z g g r x r n = =

We find the coefficient b
ij
and G
i, jk
.

( )
'. ' ' ' ' '
; ' ; '
; / ' ' ' ' ' ' ; / '
22 2 22 , 2
11 2 11 , 2 2 1 12 , 1
22 22 22 22 11 11
z z R R r r G
RR r r G RR r r G
g z R z R n r b g Rz n r b
+ = =
= = = =
= = = =


Other coefficients b
ij
and G
i, jk
are equal to zero.


8.4. External forces and moments

When studying the behavior of yarns and threads in various technological processes of
the textile industry, primarily in the knitwear, basically it is necessary to take the
aerodynamic forces, and also the reaction surface, at which the moving yarn. In some
processes, greater attention is given to electrostatic forces. External torque, attached to
the yarn appears as a result, the surface reaction force goes through the axis of the yarn
or thread. Moment, that appears to air flow while moving the yarn, usually do not take
into account. From other forces acting on the cross, we can mark all the yarn, but in
practical calculations are normally ignored.
To determine the aerodynamic forces acting on the cross, it is necessary to know the
velocity fields other than air flow aerodynamic coefficients, which is determined
experimentally. Based on the performed experiments showed that the act of force to
cross the plane of flow (frontal or frontal resistance and lifting force) and vertical surface
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flow (lateral force). Lateral forces appear to twist yarns are oriented in one way or the
other depending on the direction of twist. Experimental research in this area are not fully
investigated the lateral forces, and therefore the further they will not be accepted.
The paper Popov S.G. and second, the different yarns are shown coefficients c
forehead (frontal) and resistance coefficients cy increase the force for different incident
angles . When researching moving yarn is used not perfect speed, but related system
of coordinates, in which the axes associated with the direction tangent to the yarn, but
not with the direction of air
v
V velocity over the cross. Coefficients of normal and
tangential drag force can be calculated by the formula

c
n
= c sin +cy cos ; c

= c cos cy sin

.Some are

Q i Q
n
posted aerodynamic forces, which are related to the unit length of
yarn, which lie in the plane of flow, that is, the plane vector
v
V and , and targeted
according to the normal in. tangent to the yarn. Then

Q
n
= . ;
2 2
v v v n n
V m c Q V m c

=

where Q
n
, Q

and V
v
-vector modules;
v n
V i Q Q

, ;
m
v
-air density.
Using this formula, the analytical calculations is not recommended, since the
aerodynamic coefficients given in the respective tables.
Therefore the dependence of these coefficients of the incident angle is approximated as
follows:
c
n
= c
n 0
sin ; c

= c
0
cos

where c
n0
and c
0
- odds, the least squares method.
This formula allows to enter an expression of the force

Q
n
= c
n0
m
v
. cos ; sin
2
0
2

v v v
V m c Q V =

To determine the direction vector Q
n
and Q

see that they lie in the plane i V


v
,
where Q
n
is the orthogonal and collinear Q

tangentially to the yarn.Then



( ) [ ] ( ) [ ]; sin /
0
= =
v v v v n v v v n n
V V V m c V V V Q Q

( ) . cos
0
2
0


= =
v v v v v
V m V c V m c Q

Surface reaction force composed of forces of normal pressure N and friction
forces . F
Normal pressure force is directed at normal surface in the side of the yarn.


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( ), , N N n N N = =

where n ort normal to the surface.

Character in the first part of the expression must be selected for each individual case
depending on which side of the yarn surface is: if ort n directed at foreign yarn, to
choose the "+", otherwise we choose the sign "-".
To put that in the first case of yarn lying on the exterior surface, and the second-on the
inside. In this we assume that appears continuous function of the surface points, that is,
the choice at any point surface orientation ort freezes normal position at any point.
Size of the friction can be determined in different ways. Usually we accept that the
friction force is determined by law Amontona, where the direction of friction force, added
to the ancestors, contrary to the velocity relative to the yarn surface, that is,

, /
0 0
N F =

where
0
the velocity vector points move relative to the surface (
0
a module of the
vector);
-coefficient of friction.

Friction between the yarn and the surface is a characteristic very complex
phenomenon, coupled with such factors as the molecular adhesion, surface roughness,
the structure of yarn, yarn unevenness, and given the formula shows only the simpler
models, which describe the interaction between the yarn surface. As a rule, the formula
quite accurately describes the study process, but in special cases, to describe the need
to utilize more complex models. In reality, yet we can not count, since size of the friction
force depends on the direction of speed in relation to the movement, as it follows from
that formula.
We'll discuss some of the causes leading to the necessity of taking into account
anisotropic friction.

8.4.1. Causes related to surface properties

In the process of texturing yarns by false twist sometimes use the material to the
surface, at which the moving yarn, with different friction properties in different
orientations. The direction of the yarn trying to get the lessened friction, that too would
increase the tension leading branch of the yarn. At the same time trying to get increased
friction force, a twist of the yarn. Using the anisotropic surface-the first cause of friction
coefficient depending on the direction of velocity. Increasing the friction coefficient in the
direction opposite the axis of the yarn, leading to more intensive process of twist. On
such a surface we can show two mutually orthogonal directions. When moving, move
along one of them, the force of friction is negligible and the movement along the second-
maximum. Other directions of movement variables occur.
Other causes that may lead to addiction forces, preventing movement of the yarns,
the direction of movement occur wrinkled surface. When unwinding the yarn from
bobbins always have a part of skating, in which the surface due to creasing yarn is
shown in an alcove and movement in the longitudinal direction should be added less
power, but for the cross. Here also we can point to two directions, along which the
friction force minimum and maximum, but unlike the first case of these trends depend on
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the position of the yarn.

8.4.2. Causes, associated with a twist of the yarn

When twisting the yarn fibers on its surface are arranged per spiral line. We can expect
that resistance movement on the surface of the yarn, when the relative velocity is
directed along the distributed fiber to yarn, smaller than the cross-fiber movement. It is
certain that the direction of axial unwinding must be in conformity with the direction of
twist of the yarn. As follows from the last formula, in both cases axial unwinding yarn
from a cylindrical coil, there are really twisting, shown in figure 8.6, is absolutely
identical. Also in the experiment it was found that the unwinding of the scheme, shown in
figure 8.6, b, followed gluing and tearing yarn , that is, the frictional force on the part of
the yarn sliding over the surface coil in this case is higher than in the first case
(Figure 8.6, a).
This phenomenon can be explained if we take into account that the transverse
movement of the surface of the yarn can turn around its axis. Such rotation causes it to
increase, either by reducing the number of turns. In the first case increases the internal
moment, somewhat reducing the length of yarn and increases the tension. In the second
case, the internal torque and tension is reduced, that is, here we take the impact not only
anisotropic friction, but the lack of symmetry. When unwinding the yarn with the right
twist of the scheme, shown in Figure 6, and, it is something to unravel part of the
slip. When unwinding the yarn axis, we have left turns, especially the set pattern, shown
in Figure 8.6, b.

Much more complex interaction
appears to move from an area that has
a greater curvature. When moving cross
the small diameter cylinder in the plane,
contrary to the cylinder axis, resulting
twisting-side phenomenon, which
increases the number of turns of the
coming chapter. Forces of resistance
movement of the yarn is created as the
force of friction, and the force, finished
work of yarn (unwinding, tensile fiber
and so on), while the second component
of force opposing the movement may
prevail. To confirm this, we perform an
experiment in which we report the
turning cylinder with a speed at which
the cylinder speed cylinder higher than
the speed of the yarn. We choose the
direction of rotation so that the frictional force is directed sideways movement of the
yarn. Comparison of experiments with fixed and rotary cylinder shows that turning almost
no effect on traction and lateral twisting.
In the simplest case of anisotropic friction force of friction can be represented as a
linear transformed vector,
0
.
( ) , /
0 0
A N F =


a b
Figure 8.6. Really twisting yarn
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where A is a matrix with a given linear transformation.
Vectors F and
0
lie in one plane, which may be elected by the local Cartesian system
of coordinates. If the coordinates of vectors
0
in this system are
01 02
and the
vectors
1 2
and F F F to the relationship, in the last formula, would be equivalent to the
following two scalar relations:

F
1
= ( ); /
02 12 01 11
2
02
2
01
a a N +
|
|

\
|
+
F
2
= ( ); /
02 22 01 21
2
02
2
01
a a N +
|
|

\
|
+
where a
11
, a
12
, a
21
, a
22
-elements of the matrix A.

Common situation Amonton friction in these formulas appear in special cases, when

a
11
= a
22 =
, a
21
= a
12
= 0 that is,

A = E,

where E-identity matrix, given an identical transformation.

Suppose that there are two main directions, given that the O ort in moving along
these lines appear to friction, which act along those lines also. Taking as a base O ort
penultimate relationship will be

b
F ( ) , /
0 0 2 0 1
c b N c F b
c b c
+ = +

where
1
and
2
- friction coefficients according to directions c i b (own values of the
matrix A);
F
b
and F
c
- projection force F of friction on the O ort c and b ;
projection speed of O ort.

From the last relations, we can write, if speed
0
is directed along the vector
( ), 0
0
=
c
b to the frictional force also act on that direction (F
c
= 0) in the opposite side
and the coefficient of friction will be equal to
1
. Analogically also
0
directed along
( ), 0
0
=
b
c the velocity to be F
b
= 0 and the coefficient of friction will be
2
.
We should keep in mind that O ort c and b need not be orthogonal.
Choose the basis vectors as the O ort, associated with the yarn , In his capacity as
one of them take ort tangentially to the axis of the yarn as the second-ort , q and is
orthogonal to the plane tangential to the surface. Ort q can be specified as a cross
product of vectors . and n
q = . x n
O ort q and c b , ; , all lie in one plane. O ort and q can be expressed in vector
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and c b :
the contrary

( ) [ ] [ ]
( ) [ ] [ ] . sin cos/ sin / cos
; sin / sin sin / sin
1 1 1
1 1 1
c b q
c b


+ =
+ =


where is the angle between the vectors and b a , of readings c by b ; ;

1
angle between vectors b and c (Figure 8.7)
Projections of the friction on the O ort : q and
( ) [ ] ( ) [ ] { } , / sin sin cos cos N - F
0 1 0 2 0 1 1 2 0 1

+ + + = +
c b c b q
q q F

where F

and F
q
-projection force of friction F on the O ort

In this formula, the projection of the desired speed
0
at c and b is also expressed in
terms of projections on . q and us denote
0 0

q
and projections

the velocity
at
0
andq . Then
.
0 0 0
q
q


+ =

To force the relationship we will have

( ) ( )
1
1 0 1 0
0
sin
cos sin



=
q
+ b ,
sin
cos sin
1
0 0
c
q



+


That is,

( ) ( ) [ ] ( ) . sin cos sin ; sin / cos sin
1 0 0 0 1 1 0 1 0 0

q c q b
+ = =

Substituting in the equation for the projection of the friction and projecting , q and
the projection we get an expression for the friction force:

( )
( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) ( )
;
sin
cos cos cos sin sin cos
/
1
1 1 2 0 1 2 1 1 0
0

+ +
=
q
N F

As
1
=
2
= , this formula will be obtained to cross the usual expressions for the
isotropic friction, which arises from the formula already given,

F

= - N
0
/
0
; F
q
= - N
0q
/
0
.

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To use the expressions for the projection of the friction, you need to know the
coefficient of friction along the main axis of
1
and
2
, and also the position of these axes
in relation to cross



Figure 8.7.The angle between the vectors Figure 8.8.Velocity of points on the
surface of the yarn

(Angles and
1
). As the experimental data on the values of these apparently small
size, most estimates show the practical use of formulas for the isotropic friction.
Find expressions for the velocity vector points move relative to the surface. At
calculation of the speed we need to choose the speed does not cross the axis points, but
those points that touch the surface at the moment. Since we assume, that the yarn has a
thickness 2 and that it can rotate around its axis, it will speed up points, which are the
axis of the yarn, very much different from the speed point, which lie on the periphery of
the yarn. In those tasks, in which we can absolutely count yarn thin ( = 0), these speeds
will match .
Speed surface yarn will consider the points as the sum of the speed of the yarn axis
and line speed in rotating around the axis of the yarn. We will have created the speed
associated with the unwinding of the yarn, the distorted surface, which will not be
accepted. These assumptions are justified in moving the yarn on the surface, radius of
curvature which exceeds several times the thickness of the yarn.
We will introduce into consideration a vector, equal to half of the module thickness of
the yarn and the direction of the normal surface of the axis of the yarn to the surface

= n (Figure 8.8).

Yarns, which lie on the exterior surface, will match a '-', and on the inside-the "+".
Line speed rotary motion is determined as the cross product

, n x x =
where = r the angular velocity vector turning yarn about its own axis.

Now we find the relative speed points yarn surface:

,
0
V =
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where V the surface velocity vector points;
- velocity vector points axis yarns.

The external torque stiffness, that appears when considering the total thickness of the
yarn, the yarn is added to that, as a reaction surface does not cross the axis of the
yarn. For yarn, elastic torsion, shall take into account only one component of the vector
of external torque, which is directed at a tangent to the yarn axis (torque
stiffness). Created a vector of external torque, which is the normal plane (bending
moment), discard.
Moment stiffness creates a component of the friction q F
k
force and normal pressure
. N
Torque stiffness of the friction force is equal to the cross product of the
components of friction force (Figure 8):

x q F
k
= ( ) .
q q
F q x n q F =

Yarn spinning around its axis prevents rolling friction torque, equal to

-N ( ) ,
1
sign
where the coefficient of friction rolling .

Agreement in these values, we get the formula for the external torque

( ) ,
1
p sign N F p
q
= =

where p the external torque distribution ( ). p p = .
Angular velocity of rotation of the yarn about its own axis is equal to half of the
terminals by the time the angle , defined the position of principal axis of cross section:

= d/dt = /t + u/s.

8.5. Movement exceeds the rough surface

Let the axis of yarn lying on the surface, given a vector equation:

( )
3 2 1
, , r r = (8.1)
Where
1
and
2
- Euler curvilinear coordinates on the surface;
3
= t time.

Surface (1.1) can also be viewed as equidistant to the real
( ) t ,
2 1 1
=

or system of equations

( ) t s,
1 1
=

( ) t , s
2 2
=
(8.2)

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who are wrong on the surface in parametric form (s-arc Euler coordinates).
Suppose that the stretchable yarn, a constant torsion, but not opposed to the pro-
I form. In this case of movement of the yarn can be described surface away from it for
a thick yarn

. Position axis yarn on the surface can be determined by connecting with
Equation (8.1) in are ciprocal relationship, link coordinates
1
and
2

two scalar and one vector equation (8.3). Vector equation describes
the gradual movement of elements of the yarn:

P s / T dt / v md + = (8.3)

where

= T T - vector yarn tension;
P - Vector of external forces, fitting yarn, acting on the cross in relation to unit
length.

On the left side of equation (8.3) is the work of the longitudinal density of the yarn on a
full time derivative by the vector speed (acceleration) and the center of mass elements of
the yarn.
Let us introduce labels for the operators of partial d and P differentiation:
s /
s
= ; t /
t
= (8.4)
and we will consider that they act only for the position, which stands directly with the
operators. For example, if the F
1
and F
2
- two of the functions it will s and t:

( ) ( ) ( ) [ ]
2
1
2
1
2 2
1
2 2
2 2 1
2
t s
t / F t s / F 2 s / F F F F + + = +

The application of operators and formulas for the full statement at the time, lets rewrite
the equation (8.3) as follows:
( ) P T m
s t s
+ = + (8.5)
The equation for the torque M, which occurs in the yarn twisting (inertial rotation of
elements exceeds discard) will have the form:

0 p M
s
= + (8.6)
where: p -outside the moment.

The second scalar equation appears as equation continuous yarn:

( ) f / f
t s s
+ = . (8.7)

Notably, the - the speed of the yarn to the imaginary channel, and the equations
of non-discontinuities shows how to modify (),within the channel to remove plastic yarn.
plastic yarn. If the yarn no stretch then f = 1,
s
= 0 and thus speed does not depend
on coordinates with, and only a function of time.
In order to solve the equations of motion yarn should have a clearly expressed accord
ing to strain and moment of deformation. This dependence will be known and made
concrete in each case.It is necessary to note that each time determining the yarn tensi
on and its position on the surface of the yarn as a rule, we can introduce no stretch.
Resilience should be taken at impact, and also in some of the texturing process, in which
an element of the yarn changes its length because of the large number of turns.
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Elements of twisting yarn depend on full twisting yarn tension.
Ort touches the yarn axis we get by differentiating the radius vector s a
reassuming that the position of the yarn on the surface is given by:


2 s 2 1 s 1 s
r r r r + = = (8.8)

Ort normal is determined by the formula (8.22), and think the yarn is on the exterior
surface, when the ort directed to the side of the yarn. Other wise, we consider that the
yarn is on the inside surface.
Vectors , and
( )
|
|

\
|
= =

= =
2
1 i
2
1 i
i s 1 2 i s 2
1
2
12 22 11
i g r i g r g g g / 1 x q (8.9)

creating a local landmark, on which we projected axis of equation (8.5).
Assume that systems of curvilinear coordinates on the surfaces
1
and
2
are
orthogonal. In such 0 r r g
2 1 12
= = a case. Relations between the
s

1
and s
2
,
arising from , 1 T = ( ) ( ) 1 g g
2
2 s 22
2
1 s 11
= + the condition, allows to
introduce new variables in the characteristic angles
1
by the following formulas:


1 s 11 1
g cos =
2 s 22 2
g cos = ; (8.10)

Angles
1
and
2
have a simple geometric meaning (Fig. 9) - these are the angles
between the vectors
1
r and
2
r , and ort in line, where they move from the vector
1
r and
2
r in a positive direction. The positive direction we think of turning
1
r to
2
r the right side
corner. In practical calculations it is desirable to use only the angle
1
, which we write
without an index, and will
2
express through the
1
, i.e.

=
1
;
2
=
1
- /2 = - /2.

The new labels:

ii i
2
1 i
i
g / cos r =

=
;
ii i
2
1 i
i
g / sin r q =

=
(8.11);

we will introduce a label for the resultant at t:


i i t
= , (i = 1,2,3); (8.12)

Wind the yarn axis points:

i
3
1 i
i
r + =

=
,( 1
3
= ). (8.13)

composed of stacking of two components: the transmission speed of the imaginary
channel and speed in the yarn channel. If we mark the transmission speed
e
, it
3 2 2 1 1 e
r r r + + = .
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Among the variables ii
1
and 1 there is a connection that comes from
independence mixed excerpts from the order of differentiation, ( ) ( )
i s t i t s
= :

( ) ( ) ( )
(

+ = =

=
3
1 i
j ij , i ii i i t ii ii i t i s
G g / cos cos g / 1 g / cos , (i = 1,2) (8.14)



Figure 8.9.

Of external forces will accept only a surface reaction that occurs from the force of
normal pressureN and friction forces F (both forces are deployed and are related to
unit length).
Multiplying the vector equation (8.5) for scalar g , , and after the necessary
transformation we get the following equation:
( ) 0 N
g
cos
2 b m
g g
cos cos
b m T
ii
i
i
2
1 i
ij
3
1 j
j
jj ii
j i
2
1 i
2
1 j
ij
2
=
|
|

\
|

+



= = = =
; (8.15)
( ) 0 F cos g
g
cos
G m T
3
1 i
3
1 k
t s i t i
2
1 i
ii
kk
k
ij , k j
3
1 j
i s
= +
(
(

+ + =



= = = =


(8.16)
( ) +
|
|

\
|
+ +
1 22 2 t 1
11 22
21 , 1
1
22 11
12 , 1
1 s
2
cos g [ m sin
g g
G
cos
g g
G
m T

0 F ] G
g
sin
G
g g
2
2 sin g
q j i
3
1 j
ij , k
2
1 k
3
1 i
kk
k
3
1 i
i i 1 , 2
22 11
1 t 1 11 1 t
=

+ +

= = = =

(8.17)

Projection of force F in directions and q can be calculated by formula (8.48), if
we accept the law Amonton or by formulas (8.47) for anisotropic friction. In terms of
inputs

F and
g
F sizes,

0
and
og
that we get the design vector
0
, and q the
axis.
Denote by V
1
, V
2
, V
3
coefficients of decomposition rate vector surface
V

3 3 2 2 1 1
r V r V r V V + + = (8.18)
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then size
0
,

0
and
og
necessary for the determination of F
q
as follows
( ) [ ]

=
+ =
2
1 i
2
i ii i i i 0
sin g V cos ;

( ) ( ) + + =

sin V g cos V g
2 2 22 1 1 11 0
;

( ) ( ) + + =

sin V g cos V g
2 2 22 1 1 11 0
; (8.19)

( ) ( ) + = cos V g sin V g
2 2 22 1 1 11 q 0
;

Equation (8.6) to adopt (8.50) write down as:

0 sin N F M
1 q s
= (8.20.)

8.5.1. Boundary conditions

Part of the yarn that moves over the surface adjacent to the parts that are outside of
it. In most of the process we have two branches cross: one that comes to the
surface and another that goes from it. When winding yarn on bobbin and reeling, there is
only one branch which is located outside the area. This branch is adjacent to the yarn
that moves over the surface (sliding zone). The rest of the yarn is stationary relative
to the surface.
Below are given boundary conditions between the parts that move on the surface or
beyond. Primary attention will be focused on in practice of fen repeated case, where
possible, present the cross to the entrance to the surface and after the exit from it.
Boundary conditions can be divided into: geometric, velocity and those of the force.
Let the yarn passes through the points A
1
and A
2
(Figure 8.10), with coordinates
(a
11
, a
12
, a
13
) and (a
21
, a
22
, a
23
), which aligns with the surface at the point B
1
and the yarn
passes to the surface, and in item B
2
goes by it. All sizes corresponding to the entry point
of the yarn to the surface, we characterize the index B and release from the surface
of the index c, i.e. : s
B
,
1B
,
2B
,
1B
,
2B
,
B
,- value of the corresponding
values at point B
1
, and s
C
,
1C
,
2C
values size at point B
2
.

Geometric boundary conditions derived in accordance with the continuity of contact to
the axis of the cross at points B
1
and B
2
. Let the vector equation of the axis move to
parts of the A
1
B
1
and A
2
B
2
we write:
( ); t , s p p
1 1
= ( ); t , s p p
2 2
=

where
1
p ,
2
p the radius vectors of the axis move to parts of the yarn entering the
surface and out of it.

Then we will be in terms of continuity of border points written in the form:


C C 2 s B B 1 s
s s p ; s s p = = = = (8.21)
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Figure10. Passage yarn through the two points

If we allow that there are parts of straight yarn A
1
B
1
and A
2
B
2
, it will be Ort
1 s
p i
2 s
p
and collinear vecto
1 B
A r and
c 2
r A where the vectors A
1
and A
2
carried out with the
beginning of the coordinates of the points A
1
and A
2
(Figure 8.10).
In this case relations (8.21) will be presented in the form:

( )
B 22 B B 2 B 11 B B 1 1 B 1 B
g / sin r g / cos r A r / A r + = (8.22)
( )
c 22 c c 2 c 11 c c 1 c 2 c 2
g / sin r g / cos r r A / r A + = (8.23)


1
and
2
are orthogonal. Here we assume that the coordinates Calculation of
coordinates is carried out to the side movement of the yarn that is: S
c
>S
b
, and takes the
formula (8.5) for ort . Vector equations (8.21 and 8.23), we can replace by the six
scalar equations that are obtained by multiplying equations (8.22) the scalar,
b 1
r ,
b 2
r
and
B
, and equation (8.23) -
c 1
r ,
c 2
r and
c
.,.
For equation (8.22) we have:
( )
B 1 B B 11 B 1 1 B
cos A r g r / A r = ; (8.24)

( )
B 1 B B 22 B 2 1 B
sin A r g r / A r = ; (8.25)
( ) 0 A r
1 B
= (8.26)

(8.24) and (8.25) are not independent. Squaring the two equations and equating them
with the introduction of the quadratic equation (8.25) we get identity. Then we will
replace one of two equations:

( ) ( ) [ ]
B B 11 B 22 B 1 1 B B 2 1 B
tg g / g r A r / r A r =
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Analog relations can be obtained from equation (8.23) where we will write the whole
system with four equations connecting six sizes:

( ) 0 A r
B 1 B
= ; ( ) 0 A r
c 2 c
=
( ) ( ) [ ]
B B 11 B 22 B 1 1 B B 2 1 B
tg g / g r A r / r A r = (8.27)

As for the variable s, then it does not go public in equation (8.27). The calculation can
be made of the arbitrary point where the cross point can move in relation to the cross. Is
sometimes convenient to calculate, from the point of entry exceeds the surface B
1
. In
this case, s
B
= 0 Coordinates s
c
is equal to the length at which the curve lies on the yarn
surface.Can be obtained only through the solution of equation of motion starting from
the given function values at the end of the integration by parts s.
1
and
2
or some of
their functions. This creates a well-known problems and therefore, in practice over
another independent coordinate Velocity boundary conditions resulting from the
continuity of velocity vector at points B
1
and B
2
.

( ) ( )
c c t s B B t s
s s p s s p = = + = = +
2 1
; (8.28)

If you are the branches: A
1
B
1
A
2
B
2
and speed in a straight line to boundary conditions
connecting values at points A
1
B
1
and A
2
B
2
. Points A
1
and A
2
can be fixed or moving in
space by a known law, ie. in general the vectors A
1
(t) and A
2
(t) are functions of
time. Denote the respective speed exceeds A
1
by U
1
(t), and in item A
2
by U
2
(t).
Branch: A
1
B
1
exceed limits the movement of point B
1
Yarn only in the direction of the
vector and A
1
B
1
in not limited other directions. This limitation can be seen in the fact that
projection speed of the yarn at point B
1
in the direction of the vector A
1
B
1
or is it the
same in the direction of reflection on the A
1
to
B
and in crease the speed :

B
1
1 B 1 B B
dt
A d
U
|
|

\
|
+ + =

where
1
- the value of the speed
B
at point A
1
.
In formula (8.13) we get the speed :


1 1 B 3
1
1 B
1 B
B B 22 B 2 B B 11 B 1
U r
dt
A d
A r
A r
sin g cos g +
|
|

\
|

= + (8.29)

Analogous conditions for the velocity can be written in point B
2
:

2 2 c 3
2
c 2
c 2
c c 22 c 2 c c 11 c 1
U r
dt
A d
r A
r A
sin g cos g +
|
|

\
|

= + (8.30)
Two other conditions arising from a similar geometric continuity touches axis cross at
points of entry to the surface of the yarn out of it. Position elements move to the area can
get using the value of speed. Point cross, which at some point in time corresponding to
point B
1
, over time dt, will be located at the point of which will be the radius vector
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dt r
B B
+ , and during that time point B
1
are to be redeployed at the point dt
dt
r d
r
B
|

\
|
+ . It
follows that the vector dt / r d
B B
collinear Ort ,
B
and therefore the scalar
product ( ) 0 q dt / r d
B B
= .
More comprehensive manner we get:

( ) ( ) 0 cos g dt / d sin g dt / d
B B 22 B 2 B 2 B B 11 B 1 B 1
= (8.31)

Analogous conditions can be rewritten to point B
2
:

( ) ( ) 0 cos g dt / d sin g dt / d
c c 22 c 2 c 2 c c 11 c 1 c 1
= (8.32)

And so, we get four equations, connected with
1B
,
1C
,
1B
,
1C
,
2B
,
2C
,
B
,
C
, each
other with the same two relations have differentiated form.
The speed limit conditions should be placed values in some points of the yarn.
Boundary conditions that depend on the powers given value of tension and twisting
moment at some point move.

8.6. Movement of the yarn by a cylindrical surface

Working elements of textile, knitwear and above whereby all machines have various
forms of surface, but most often encountered cylindrical surface of the rotating
surface. We will consider the movement of the yarn by a cylindrical surface which is
given by (8.11):
2
2 1 1 1 2 1
k ) sin j cos i )( ( R ) , ( r + + = = (8.33)

Since 0 r r g
2 12
= = , the coordinate system
1
and
2
is orthogonal.
Let the surface moves with the speed of the surface points directed by function:


k V r V V
2 2 2
= =
(8.34)

We will consider the stationary motion of yarn per cylinder: the steady movement of the
implies such movement at which the shape of the imaginary channel remains unchanged
and is called hard boundary. In this case it is better taken as independent variable
s and the coordinates are the projection angle touches the axis of the yarn on the
surface and the axis 0y x0y. angle can be determined using the formula:
11 1 1
g / ) cos R sin ' R ( cos + =

11 1 1
g / ) sin R cos ' R ( sin + =
(8.35)

where g
11
= R
2
+ (R ')
2


For a circular cylinder

=
1
and the transition from the variable s -

, is equal to
at
1
use as arguments. If the cylindrical measurement surface r'

0, then the variable is


safe angle

. How to consider the stationary motion of the cylindrical surface R

0
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of arbitrary shape to

be the size that characterize a particular form of yarn (a form
of imaginary channel) depend only on the angle

),
1
=
1
(

),
2
=
2
(

).
Write a differential equation (8.10 and 8.14) considering that the in
dependent variables you t and

:
) g b /( G d / d tg /
11 11 11 , 1 1 1 1
+ = (8.36)
= d / d g /
11 1 2
(8.37)

11 11 1
b / g d / d = (8.38)
Where ) ' ' ( ' , / ] ) ' ( 2 ' ' [
11 , 1 11
2 2
11
R R R G g R R RR b + = =
Equation (8:36) we can integrate


11 1 1
/ cos ) ( g t C = (8.39)
Relations obtained by setting equation we
2
:
) t ( C sin ) t ( C
2 1 2
+ = (8.40)

Here is a c
1
(t) and c
2
(t) - to self-time function that can be determined from boundary
conditions.
In order to better understand the physical meaning of the functions c
1
(t) and c
2
(t) will
use the expression for the transmission speed of the imaginary channel:

=
=
3
1 i
i i e
r

1
and
2
and taking into account the functions (8.14) and (8.35) we get: Posing here


) cos j sin i ( cos ) t ( C )] t ( C sin ) t ( C [ k
1 2 1 e
+ + + =
. (8.41)
or
k ) t ( C ) t ( C
2 1 e
+ =


In this way, the movement of yarn stationed at an imaginary cylinder speed channel by
which coordinates with the passing that is established from the speed,
and speed along the yarn, measured by educated cylinder. First gear C
1
(t)

a given
point is determined, from which it calculates the coordinates of arc. Practically in all
cases, the budget of arc coordinates that remain unchanged i.e. points that lie on a parti
cular educational cylinder.

Velocity and the imaginary point of the channel is co linear vector
k
. Because the

Coefficient of decomposition rate in vectors

and
k
is independent of the coordinate

s with the s = 0, C
1
= 0, it will in the choice of budget
k


0 , 0 ) t ( C
1 1
= =


and the angle in this case is just a function of the coordinates of s.

Assume further, that the values of u, T, N and

appear as a function of angle


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angle

c
2
and
2
- are constants. Then the set of
equations from (8.15)to (8.19) and (8.6) and (8.10) after the transition from the
variable s with the

write the following:




) cos b /( g F d / mudu d / dT
11 11
+ =

(8.42)

] cos ) mu T ( b /[ g F d / d
2
11 11 q
=
(8.43)

11 11 1
b / g d / d =
;
= tg ) b / g ( d / d
11 11 2
(8.44)

) cos b /( g ) sign N F ( d / dM
11 11 q
1
=

(8.45)

For not remove plastic cross = const, if the stretch yarn to be as follows from
equation (8.7) for steady motion:
u = C
3
f , (8.46)
where C
3
- constant.

As for steady movement
2
= const = C
4
, it = u
1
C
4
. Sum

1
+ +1 /
1
, where
1
- geometric twist yarn is determined completely twisting the
yarn. If we mark with K number of turns per unit length of yarn:


4 1
C ) / 1 K 2 ( u + =
(8.47)

Formula (8.19) to determine the size of
o
,
o
and
oq
about oq and entering the
express F

and F
q
in a given case may take the form:


) cos sin u )( V C ( 2 ) ( ) V C ( u
2 2
2 2
2 2
2
0
+ + + =

+ =

sin ) V C ( u
2 2 0
;
= cos ) V C (
2 2 q 0
(8.48)
,
Rewrite equation (8.42) (8.43), (8.45) for the isotropic friction, that obey the law
Amonton. The formula for the force (8:48) after dumping N we get:
+ = cos ] sin ) V C ( u ][ / ) mu T [( d / mudu d / dT
2 2 0
2
; (8.49)


0 2 2
/ cos ] cos ) V C ( [( d / d = ; (8.50)
{ } = sign ] cos ) V C )[( / ( cos ) mu T ( d / dM
1 2 2 0
2
. (8.51)

For solving systems of equations (8.42) to (8.45) to use speed, geometric and force
boundary conditions. Suppose that the yarn passes through the point A
1
with a speed
V
1
. Then we can write (8.29):


( )
1 1 1 B B B B B B 2 B B 11 B 1
u U dt / A d ] A r / ) A r [( sin cos g + = +


In our case
1
= 0,
2
= C
2
, so


( )
1 1 1 B B B B 2 1
U dt / A d ] A r / ) A r [( sin C u + = +
(8.52)
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Since the left part of the equation obtained is independent of time, it also can be said
about the right part. Write down two conditions (8.31), (8:32)

0 cos ) / ( sin ) / (
2 2 1 11
= +
B B B B
dt d C dt d g

0 cos ) dt / d C ( sin ) dt / d ( g
C C 2 2 C C 1 C 11
= +


to be met if:
) dt / d (
B 2
=
2 C 2
C ) dt / d ( = ; ) dt / d (
B 1
= 0 ) dt / d (
C 1
=

which implies that the stationary motion of the cylinder in uniform motion can be
imagined as a hard body channels along the length educated cylinder.

Geometric boundary conditions (8.27) in a given case can be represented by equation:


2
B 1 12 B 1 11 B 1 B 1 12 B 1 11 B 1
R ) sin a cos a )( ( R ) cos a sin a )( ( ' R = +


2
C 1 22 C 1 21 C 1 C 1 22 C 1 21 C 1
R ) sin a cos a )( ( R ) cos a sin a )( ( ' R = +

(8.53)

B B 11
B 1 12 B 1 11
13 B 2 B 1
tg g
cos a sin a
) a )( ( ' R
=





C C 11
C 1 22 C 1 21
23 C 2 C 1
tg g
cos a sin a
) a )( ( ' R
=




Obtained by calculating the system of equations we can see that in Equation (8.46) and
(8.49) to (8.51) does not include parameters of the surface, and the expression (8.47)
surface shape has an impact only on the size of geometric twist yarn 1 /
1
.
This means that in those cases where the size of 1 /
1
, we can ignore the arbitrary in
the function R (
1
) does not change the aforementioned equation (this happens for
example when considering an ideal elastic thread, when it does not take into account
the torque stiffness if size is large enough R, or twisting K the yarn significantly exceeds
R(
1S
), R(
1B
), R(
1C
), the geometric torsion axis).

The boundary conditions are only values of the function R(
1
) at
1
=
1B
and
1
=
1C
,
R(
1B
), and its running in those same spots.
Here derive the following results:
If the size of 1 /
1,
we can ignore the size of while maintaining value, a function is
independent of T( ), ( ,), K( ) i u( ) the forms of cylindrical surfaces.





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9.The dynamics of the warp yarn
tension in the warp knitting

Passive way to add a warp using the Raschel machine, "Super Grant" Companies K.
Mayer operating with lower speeds. As is known warp consumption during one cycle
of loop creation is changing which is caused by relative displacement of language and
perforated needles. If the existing mechanism for adding warp does not provide sizing
added in accordance with its consumption during knitting, warp tension will be
significantly changed during the cycle of creating loops. In figure 9.1 is given in
Scheme passive way without adding warp tension device. Warps exceed1, that the warp
shaft 2, which are forcibly turned, with tension T
1
, go with at point A with velocity
v
1
and unroll it on to point B in the zone where the knitting interfere with speed v
2
.



Figure 9.1. Technological scheme of the building during passive
how to add without warp tension mechanism

Warp shaft is rotating with angular velocity. It is necessary to determine the tension T
2
in
the base area AB = L. depending on the variable tension T
1
, the output speed of the
base zone v
2
= f (t), inhibiting the moment M
k
and other disturbance factors.
For the solution of the task it is necessary to take the following assumptions in the paper:

* warps yarn tension does not exceed the value of the corresponding their elastic
deformation.
* warp yarn friction on the clamping mechanism is irrelevant,
* damping in a dynamic system of the tension mechanism is proportional to the speed,
* tightening mechanism is balanced, that is the moment of gravity is zero,
* diameter of the tension mechanism is not large.

To put together a differential equation in the area of compensation, we will use the
volume balance moved warps yarns, including that for a time interval dt, the volume V
1

warp, which comes with a warp back in the zone AB, and warp volume V
2
, which goes
from the area as a result creating a loops, there is a change in time dt dT
2
. Then
dV = LdT
2
. In the considered case of AB = L = const,
where L-length of the warp between two fixed points, whose length does not change.
You are part of a volume V
i
warp basis under force T
i

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V
i
= V
0
, ) (
ES
T
i
(
(

+ 1 2 1
0
(9.1)

where V
0
-volume warps yarn before deformation,
S
0
-warps yarn cross-section before deformation,
E-modulus of longitudinal elasticity warps yarn,
-Poisson ratio.

The relationship between the volume of the same offense moved the warp change lifting
from T
1
to T
2
is determined by the expression

,
ES ) ( T
ES ) ( T
V
V
0 1
0 2
1
2
2 1
2 1
+
+
= (9.2)
Based on the above conditional equilibrium volumetric warps yarns for zone AB for an
infinitesimal time interval dt can be represented by the expression

S
1
v
1
, LdS dt v S dt
ES ) ( T
ES ) ( T
2 2 2
0 1
0 2
2 1
2 1
=
+
+
(9.3)

Where S
1
= S
0
-
1
2
T
E

and S
2
= S
0 -

2
2
T
E
area of cross sections warps Yarn
tensile T
1
and T
2


Substituting values S
1
, S
2
and - dS
2
= -
2
2
dT
E

in equation (.3) and taking the


v
1
= r = r ,
dt
d
we get r (B-2 [ ]

+
dt
d
T ) ( B ) T
2 1
2 1
2
(B-2 X ) T
2

X[ ] [ ] ,
dt
dT
T ) ( B L ) T ( B
2
1 1
2 1 2 2 1 + = + (9.4)

where and corresponding angular velocity and rotation angle of the warp back,

r- radius of coiling.

The equation of motion of the considered system has the form:

, r T M
dt
dI
dt
d
I
k 2
2
= +

(9.5)

where the
Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
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.
2
) (
1
2
2
2
dt
dI
M r T
I dt
d
k

= (9.6)
If the object equation (9.5) differentiate by time and determine from nje
2
2
dt
d
it with
replacement in (9.6) we get the complex structure of nonlinear second order differential
equation

[ ]
[ ]
[ ] [ ]
[ ] [ ] (9.7) , 0
2
) 2 1 ( 2 ( ) 2 1 ( ) 2 (
) 2 1 ( ) 2 ( ) 2 1 ( 2
) 2 ( ) 2 1 ( ) 2 1 ( 2 ) 2 1 (
) 2 ( ) 2 1 ( 2 ) 2 1 ( 2
2 2 1 2 1
2
1
2 1
2
1
2 2 2 1 2
2
1
2 1
2
2
2
1
=
)
`

+ + + +
+ + +
+ +
+ + +
dt
dI
M r T T B T B r
dt
dr
T B T B I
dt
d
T B
dt
dT
B I
dt
dT
T B I
dt
dT
T B I T T B I
dt
dT
T B rI
dt
dT
dt
dT
LI
dt
T d
t B LI
k






We got a second order differential equation which allows to determine the tension
T
2
warp yarn, depending on their mechanical properties (parameters) B = ES
0
, initial
tension T
1
, parameters I and r, as well as speed
2
(t). The switchgear
2
, the
initial tension T
1
, moment of inertia I and radius r can be considered as external
disturbance factors, and change braking torque as a controlling influence.
For most warp yarn which is processed by knitting machines, we can assume that the
B> T
1
and B > T
2
, and Poisson ratio values are within 0.39 to 0.63, and for our case to
adopt the = 0.5.
Introduce the equation (9.7) of the form:
0
2 1 1 2
2
1
=
|
|

\
|
, , T , T ,
dt
dT

and perform the linearization method of small parameter. Decomposition equation in
Taylor series and omitting the higher order members, starting with the other, we get:

+
|
|
|

\
|


+
|
|
|
|
|

\
|


+
|
|

\
|

2
0 2
1 2
0
2
1
2 1 1 2
2
1
0 0 0 0
T
T dt
dT
dt
dT
, , T , T ,
dt
dT

0
2
0 2
1
1
0 1
1
1
0 1
1
=
|
|
|

\
|


+
|
|
|

\
|


+
|
|
|

\
|


+ T
T
(9.8)

Index 0 (zero) indicates that size is considered constant value. All quotients statement,
taken at constant values of these variables are constant coefficients. By determining
the constant coefficients linearized equations (9.8) and subtracting from it according to
the formula established by the state equation

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( ) 0
0 0 0 0
2 1 1 2 1
= , , T , T (9.9)

Taking that B = ES >>
0
1
T and B = ES >>
0
2
T and after simple transformation we get the
approximate equation in the form operator

( ) ( )
2
4 6 3 6 2 5 1 4 3
2 2
2
1 1
u . izl
x p p p x p p + + + + = + + (9.10)

dt
d
p = - the symbol of differentiation,

where the dimensionless size
0
3
r
r
= ,
0
4
I
I
= ,
0
2
k
k
u
M
M
x

= ,

and constant time
2
0
0 2
2
Br
LI
= ,
2
0
0 2
5 3
0
Br
I
= = ,
0 2
0 0 1
4
0
0
r BT
I T
= ,
0 2
0 0
6
0
2 r T
I
= .

Examined object relative to the change unwinding radius r (
3
) and braking torque
M
k
(x
0
) appears as a static. In relation also to the input sizes T
1
(
1
),
2
(
2
)

and I (
4
) object is a static element of automatic regulation.
In the steady state

0
k
2
r
M
T
0
0
= . (9.11)
It follows that to maintain constant tension warp yarn measure the radius of the unwind
ing is necessary to reduce braking torque the proportion radius.
In any case, the T
1
(t) = const and
2
(t) = const during the small interval of time when
the unwinding radius ri moment of inertia I practically do not change, equation (9.9)
becomes
( )
2
u . izl 3
2 2
2
x x 1 p p = + + (9.12)

The transitional object functions in this case is determined by the decision
Equation (9.12) with the corresponding characteristic roots equations

0 1 2
3
2 2
2
= + + p p (9.13)

being equal
( ) 1
1
p
2
2
2 , 1

= ,
where
L ES
I
r 2 2
0
0
0
2
2
3 0

= -.relative damping coefficient.


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For 0 <

<1 we get conjugate complex roots form



p
1,2
= j ,
where
L 2
0
2
2

= i
2
2
1
1

= .
In this case, the crossover characteristics determined by the expression

( ) +


= t sin
1
) t exp(
1 ) t ( x
2
. izl
(9.14)

where


=
2
1
arctg .

A periodic process conditions determined from the ratio of approximately

U
I
4
2
0
2
0

, (9.15)
where
L 2
L ES
U
2
0
= .

Getting to
0
1
=
0
r
0
slightly different from the size
0
2
. The size of the potential energy
of elastic deformation of the unit warp yarn between the warp point down from the shaft
and the knitting zone. Relationship (9.15) has a physical meaning that determines the
critical value of kinetic energy through the parameters E, S
0
and L. When the kinetic
energy of greater or less than 4U, transitional object functions will be periodic.
Equation object (9.10), for experimental testing, can be written in the form of





.
dt
dr
r
I
dt
dI
r dt
d
r
I
r
M
k
|
|

\
|

+ =
2
2
(9.16)

In
2
= const and the slow change of I = const, r = const, neglecting the last member
(right) equations (9.16), we get:


r
M
T
dt
dT
r S
I A
dt
T d
r S
LAI
k
= +

+
2
2
2
0
2
2
2
2
2
0
, (9.17)

=
|
|

\
|
+ + +
2
2
2
0
2
2
0
2
2
2
2
2
0
1 T
dt
d
r S
AI
dt
dT
r S
I A
dt
T d
r S
LAI
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where

1
100
2
E
A

= ,
0
2
1
100
2
S r E
LI
Q

= ,
0
2
1
2
100
2
S r E
I
R

= , Q
L
R
2

= ,
or

k
M
r
T
dt
dT
R
dt
T d
Q
1
2
2
2
2
2
= + + .
By connecting the tension T
2
with braking torque M
k
transfer function can be written as


( )
( )
( )
1
Rp Qp
r
M
T
k
2
1
p k
p 2
p
+
+
= =

. (9.18)

From the transfer function we see that the transfer coefficient transfer function equal to
r
-1
, or in steady state

T
2
r = M
k
.

10. Determination of the suspended period of
one cycle in the process of warp knitting
In the process of knitting knitting machine according to Raschel SUPER GRANT RE-4,
we discuss the dynamics of yarn tension and the factors that influence the dynamics. It
should be particularly borne in mind that the evaluation of the transition process
necessary to take into account the current value exceeds the parameters that are
processed on the machine. Experimental verification of derivative relationships have
been done on the machine with sensors at the speed of the machine 8.5 and 580 min
-1
.
As is known in the early stages of the longitudinal modulus of elasticity, or more
correctly put "elastic modulus of rigidity" can be defined by the expression

) cm (cN
S
P
E
2 -
=
1
1
,

where S - the cross-section yarn in cm
2
,
P
1
- load yarn (cN), which deforms the cross for 1%.

For the initial elongation length exceeds 50 cm for 1% elongation according to the
diagram was necessary powers of 2cN, and elongated yarn had a length of 50.5 cm.
To calculate the cross section yarn elongation at the moment it is necessary to determi
ne the longitudinal mass of yarn in an elongated shape.
As the mass of the initial length of yarn 0.0092 g, longitudinal weight yarn elongation of
1% will amount to
tex .
.
.
T
t
217 18
505 0
10 0092 0
3
=

= .

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Cross sectional
2
mm .
.
.
S 01320 0
38 1 1000
217 18
=

= .

For the specific weight of polyester yarn, we have taken 1.38 mg mm
-3
. From the
relation between force and cross-sectional area exceeds the elastic modulus of rigidity
amount
2
2
1
5 . 15151
10 01320 . 0
2

= cm cN E .

Moment of inertia exceeds the warp shaft was determined on the warp of diameter
15.1cm wound warp, weighing 9,632 kg and specific gravity of yarn 1.38 g cm
-3
, or
( ) [ ]
2
x
cm gr ) . . ( . . . . I
p
= + = 2991276 1 5 3 5 39 10 1 15 5 39 14 3 38 1
12
1
2 2 2 2
.

Total moment
2
u
m kg . I = 514606 0 ,
or
2
gr 2 . 52475 s cm I
u
= .

We fulfill this requirement that

S
E
T


100
2
.

Module elastic stiffness E was determined based on the average power of a cycle of
creation loop knitting zone.

2
s .
. . .
. . .
S r E
I L
Q 293 1
01269 0 1 15 98 76776 100
10 5 0 2 2 5475 5 52
100
2
2
2
2
=


=


=

.

s .
. . .
. . .
S r E
I v
Q 0123 0
01269 0 1 15 98 76776 100
10 5 0 2 2 5475 5 0
100
2
2
2
2
=


=


=

.

As the expression (9.17)

k
M
r
T
dt
dT
R
dt
T d
Q
|

\
|
= + +
1
2
2
2
2
2
.

Replacement values for Q and R and neglecting M
k
bird will get T
2
= x

1.129 x + 0.0123 x + x = 0.
or

x + 9.512 10
-3
x + 0.77339x = 0.

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As a general form of differential equations

x + 2h x +
0
2
x = 0,
,
and its general solution
( ) ( ) + = t cos t h exp k x .
where
2 2
h
o
= .

Conditional period of damped oscillatory systems will amount to


=
2
. us
T .
Since in our case
, . h
3
10 512 9 2

= a 77339 0
2
.
o
= ,
substitution we get
s . . . 8794 0 10 26 2 77339 0
5
= =

.

Conditional cycle time will amount to
s .
.
.
T
. us
14 7
8794 0
28 6
= = .
Coefficient amount
s .
.
.
01081 0
1 293 1
0123 0
=

= .

an oscillation is damped 0
<


<
1. Since in our case "Logarithmic decrement"
0339637 0
2
.
h
=


is the natural logarithm of the ratio of successive maximum solution x (t).
Occurrence of high amplitude in the overlapping of their own and disturbing resonance
frequency is called conditional. If the increase in amplitude by a corresponding increase
in stress that occurs in oscillating elements, it is clear that the resonance in the design
and construction machine budget has very important significance. The frequency of
oscillation is even greater if the higher rigidity of yarns and decreases with increasing
length of yarn and size of oscillations and yarn. At high speeds, when the drag force is
proportional to speed, it is necessary in preparing the oscillation equations take into
account the force of resistance.
Consider the case when the average force in the cycle of creating loops 13 cN. For this
force elongation yarn is 6%, and the length of yarn will be 53 cm. Longitudinal weight
yarn at the moment amount to 17,358 tex elongation, the cross-sectional yarn 0.01257
mm 2, modulus 103420.8cNcm
-2
.
Own circular frequency amount to 1.0104 with a probation period cycle 6.215 s.
10
-3
.

Coefficient has a value of 0.009336 with a logarithmic decrement 4766 In this case
the oscillation is damped. Conditional cycle time with increasing force declines relative to
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the cycle period obtained experimentally. With increasing density knitting average force
in the cycle is 5.13 cN, and yarn elongation 7%, which corresponds to the length
exceeds 53.5 cm. cm
-2
, own circular frequency 1025 s, the conditional period cycle 6126
s.

Modulus of elasticity is 108,338 cN . As we see the conditional period, the cycle


continues to decline.
At maximum allowable average power density of knitting in the cycle is 13.63 cN, and
elongation 7.75%, which corresponds to the length exceeds 53.5 cm. , own circular
frequency 1.0264 s, cycle

Modulus of elasticity is 108338 cN

cm
-2
time

6.118s. With the
minimum difference between the forces of probation period and the cycle continues to
decline.
Consider the case when the machine is running at a speed 580 min
-1
.When the initial
density and average power in the cycle loop creation is 16.8 cN, and yarn elongation is
8%.

Longitudinal weight yarn at the moment is 17,037tex elongation, the cross-sectional


yarn 0.01234 mm
2
, a modulus 136142.6cN cm
-2
. Own circular frequency for all 20 cycles
3.732114s, a probation period of one cycle is 0.0841s. Period of one cycle obtained
experimentally was 0.103 s. Coefficient in this case is 0.1345 with a logarithmic
decrement 0.0472.
For the second average power density in the cycle is 15. 655 cN, net angular frequency
of 0.1235 with a suspended period of one cycle of the 0.123 s.
its own circular frequency of 2.8905s with a suspended period of one cycle 0.108
s.

Average density of the third force in the cycle is 19. 836 cN, the elastic modulus is
162142 cN cm
-2
.
its own circular frequency of 2.9924s cycles with a probation period of 2.098 s, ie for one
cycle of 0.104 s.

For the fourth the maximum density of knitting, the average force in the
cycle is 21.64 cN, and the elastic modulus of 178,547 cNcm
-2
.

10.1.Interaction among forces acting in the loop tensile
bases and the withdrawal of twists

With the help of sensors and related equipment we measured the force the withdrawal
of fabric directly with the withdrawal of the needle or the needle and the tension roller on
the below zone 1, and the tension roller directing and cargo rollers for below zone 2.
Force the withdrawal of twists in zone 1 is two to four times the force of withdrawal in
Zone 2, which is understandable considering the forces acting inside the knitting zone,
or on the needle in different stages of the process of creating a loop. Diagram of force
withdrawal twists for zone 1 at a speed machine 8.5 and 580 min
-1
for the density I is
shown in figure 10.1 and 10.2. At low speed the withdrawal of forces knitwear(twists) is
10.36 cN, and at a higher speed 22 cN.
In zone 2 we measured the force the withdrawal of knitwear at the speed of knitting for
all four density knitting. Diagram of force withdrawal of knitwear density and is shown in
figure 10.3, where the force the withdrawal of 2 cN. Force the withdrawal of den sity II
(Figure 10.4) is 2.5 cN, the density I (Figure 10.5) is 4.5cN and density IV (Figure 10.6)
5 cN.
From the above chart shows that the increase of tension and knitwear warp changes
force the withdrawal of knitwear or yarn density. This is also reflected on the forces in the
elements half loop and loops in different stages of the process of creating loops we
have experimentally proved it already.


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Figure 10.1. Diagram of force withdrawal at a speed of knitting yarn
8.5 min
-1
and the density I



Figure 10.2. Diagram of force withdrawal at a speed of knitting yarn
580 min
-1
and the density I



Figure 10.3. Diagram of force withdrawal at a speed of knitting yarn
580 min
-1
and the density I
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Figure 10.4. Diagram of force withdrawal at a speed of knitting yarn
580 min
-1
and density II



Figure 10.5. Diagram of force withdrawal at a speed of knitting yarn
580 min
-1
and density III



Figure 10.6. Diagram of force withdrawal at a speed of knitting yarn
580 min
-1
and density IV

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10.2. Analysis of force elements in the loop
by Euler's formula

1 1
1
exp
T
T
o
= ,
2 2
1
2
exp
T
T = .

computation we can calculate the forces in the elements half loop and loops and
compare it with the same powers obtained experimentally with the help of sensors and
other ancillary equipment input power in the phase of cooling the yarn according to the
diagram in a compensation zone is 6 cN, the friction of the yarn needle 0.253, a
comprehensive 1.485 work angle.,

cN .
e
T
. .
120 4
6
485 1 253 0
1
= =


in one arm, and in 8.241 cN half loop. By experiment, the average force the withdrawal
of knitwear 10.36 cN. As the conditions

2 1
T T cos T F
o p
+ +

Or in our case the = 52
o
i T
1
= 4.120 = T
2


241 8 52 6 . cos F
o
p
+ ,
or
cN . F
p
93 11 .

According to the above expressions we get

cN .
e e
cos F
. . . .
o
p
64 10
1
1
1
52 6
485 1 253 0 485 1 253 0
=
(

\
|
+ + =

.
Yarn tension in the arm (page) loop from the formula amount

cN . . . p . T
i
59 2 36 10 25 0 25 0 = = = .

The arm of this force is half loop 4.12 cN. Force the withdrawal of knitwear in Zone 2
according to the diagram in figure 10.3 is a 2cN, and the yarn tension in the arm of
the loop T = 0.25 2 = 0.5cN. From the above we can conclude that the force of the arm
of the loop in zone 1 to 2 times the force in the arm of the loop in Zone 2, in relation to
half loop increased by 3.5 times.
Consider now the case at a higher speed and density and, when force the withdrawal of
twists in zone 1 (Figure 10.2)) 22 cN. Entry into force
max
o
T phase diagram of cooling by
5.16 cN, the coefficient of friction 0.253, 1.485 paper wrapping angle. Force in the arm
half loop
cN .
e
. T
. .
332 11
6
5 16
485 1 253 0
1
= =

,
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and 22.66 cN.

By experiment, the average force the withdrawal of yarn is 22 cN.
According to the above given expression F
p
< cN 32.81 or 29.27 F
p
= cN.

Yarn tension in the arm of the loop the expression is 5.5 cN, and arm half loop 11.332cN
,in other words, this force is two times the force in the arm of the loop in relation to the
loop in Zone 2 to 5.5 times.

10.3. Analysis and reciprocal action knitting
Authority at warp knitting
10.3.1. Interaction with bodies of knitting
yarn and the influence of friction

Knitting authorities system of any machine makes a set of appropriate parts (working
bodies), which incorporate mechanisms for their operation, as well as devices to ad warp
yarn. In the process of creating a loop or loop order, we have different specific moments
or phases. Knitting machines as the basis of these moments are closing, laying warp
yarn, typing, pressing, binding, rejection or overthrow of, the creation or establishment
and withdrawal of knitwear.
The process of creating a loop warp knitting machine is cyclical. In addition to the
warp back to base is added during the cycle uniform for size, same length of yarn in the
loop. Also in the process of creating loop consumption is uneven. Uneven consumption
of yarn in the cycle is created in the grounds at the time of laying. For regulation of
consumption exceeds a mechanism for adding or warp bridge (compensator), but she is
unable to provide uniformity loops inertial structures in unsettled mode of the
machine. There were many attempts to get across the high-frequency bridge warp
ensure uniformity adding warp yarn, but the solution was partly because of stopping and
starting the machine in operation in the knitting appear with thick horizontal stripes and
less closely packed rows, which continues to distort the appearance loops structure.
In the process of creating a loop of warp knitting machines knitting authorities
executed reversibly-governing movement, taking in every moment of complete certain
position relative to each other. Analysis of the process of creating a loop shows that the
moment of laying the yarn on the needles makes the most of the time the full cycle of
creating a loop, which significantly affects the parameters of moving bodies and knitting
parameters loops structure.
Many foreign researchers have dedicated themselves to studying and analyzing the
process of warp knitting as an object of automatic regulation and, particularly, issues of
automatic regulation of the warps and adding tension to the knitting warp knitting
machines.
The authors give an analysis of work, on issues of technology warp knitting, pointing out
the disadvantages of removing the transverse the line (stripes) knitwear, add warp and
tightening the knitwear.
The authors described a conditional share the knitting process on static and
dynamic. The entire process of knitting consider the position of the automatic regulation
general using modern achievements in this field.
The effectiveness of warp knitting production determine the actual speed of knitting,
area served, the coefficient and the Useful Life of Machines the created quality
Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
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knitwear. Analysis of warp knitting machines in the industry conditionally permitted to do
the following conclusions:

the speed of knitting machines is less than repeated by 15-20% because of a greater
disruption of warp yarns;
coefficient of useful time on the machine is changed within the limits from 0.75 to 0.85,
since a large number of delays, caused by breaking warp yarn;
the absence of just stopping at break of yarns and needles break on some machines
does not allow an increased area serving. Zone is served in this case only two or three
machines, reducing the productivity of knitting machines, yarn waste and increasing due
to errors in the parts of cloth;
the stopping and starting the machine create horizontal stripes on yarn, leading to
reduced quality and increased scrap knitwear.

The fulfillment of complex work permits to establish the main causes of the creation of
transverse stripes on the knitting when stopping and starting the machine and determine
the directions of their removal.
Move the working groups and their mutual arrangement is determined not only by the
size of individual elements of the working bodies, but also has created the position loop,
and also yarns, which are added to the working bodies to create new loops. The
temporary movement of subordinate command of the yarn in the process of creating a
loop, yarn warp, sliding to the edge of the working bodies, occupy a certain position, as
well as surface condition and type processed yarn on a given machine, that is friction
between the yarn and needles.

10.3.2. Balanced position half loop
We will consider the most typical and common cases of balanced position or a half loop
yarn laying at different times of the process of creation, where it is necessary to take
the friction between yarns and needles. When moving the needle at the time of closing,
half-loop moves away from the normal to the boundary pins or tabs for the angle for
the force friction between yarn and needle. In figure 45, a diagram shows the position
of the half loop snippiness Ketenschtul needle machine with tiles, where half loop devia
tes ab (away) for the angle . In figure 10.7,b shows the position of ac, which includes
half of the loop and twists. From the scheme we see that the general move a needle
from general move a needle from a lower position in the position of the closure
containing the size of X, we need to calculate the share of friction between the yarn and
needles. Figure 10.7, c illustrates this phenomenon in the tubular needle Coquette
machines. The time when the yarn takes a balanced position, which should also feature
friction bet- ween the yarn and needles.
In figure 10.8, was released the moment the laying exceeds the snipiness
needles. Yarn takes balanced position BCD, part of the yarn forming the edge of the
hook needle angles and , the measurement depends on value of the coefficient of
friction for a given cross .
Of these, where the point c to curl yarn needle, move yarn depends on its size and.
From figure 46, and we see that the needle is necessary to raise the level of Y, as in
accordance with the process of creating loops necessary to fold cross point c does not
find the needle hooks, but on its hilt. In the case of taking the move to the tubular needle
or with tongue to raise additional needles should not be, because the little needle hook
and the point of laying yarn curls c is lower than the needle hooks to the body of the
needle. (Figure 46, b).
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Figure 10.7. Transfer schemes pointed (a), utilities (b) and gutter (c) needles
in the knitting process

From the above-discussed geometric computational scheme of interaction of yarns
and knitting bodies we see, to rub the yarn between them affects the size of the tempora
ry relocation. The values of the coefficient of friction, in all likelihood, we entered into
a computational geometric pattern over the angle of friction.
Research interaction of the knitting warp knitting,made with yarn mechanics positions,
with certain assumptions. In Article L. R. Geljmana based on the submitted theory
of winding and unwinding yarn A. P.Minakova to solve the task of determining the
position of the knitting yarn on knitting machines organs
.
Yarn, which is located on the
body of the needle under tension, can be found on it in balance only in the field,limited
border curves, that is, the position of the yarn counts, from which distort yarn counts, its
balance and it starts to slip, crossing the threshold of friction.



Figure 10.8. The scheme of taking the yarn needle (a) and wrap
around the needle (b)

The results obtained in these works can be taken for the determination oft he position
switch on pins and needles at the time of laying. In the present work was not
taken into account, that in the process of taking one of yarn end is stationary and
equilibrium is established at the expense before tightening yarn on the other edge-
perforated needles (pitting needle).
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A deeper analysis of interaction half loop and newly created loop shows that the
length of yarn loops recreated action depends on it half loop.
For cotton yarn longitudinal mass 29.4 tex x2 on the flat knitting machine 10 fineness,
yarn tension force on a needle of 25 cN and depth of cooling 2.8 mm indicates that the
interaction between the re-created half loop caused an increase in the length of yarn for
newly created loop 0,16 mm, which in the process of creating a loop is not always possi
ble to ignore.
For the solution to the yarn stiffness participation in derivative research will look
at moving the needle yarn per item, recognizing that the cylinder.
We will consider the movement of polyamide complexes or along its axis for each
correct needle diameter D = 0.6 mm (Figure 10.8).Thread longitudinal mass 6.7 tex, whi
ch consists of 12 elementary fibers. Longitudinal mass of the elementary nor, being tex

T
te
= 6,7:12 = 0,558 tex.

Diameter of elementary or in mm,
d
el
= 0,0357 mm. 0,025
14 , 1
558 ' 0
=
then the cross-section
S
el
= 4,9 10
-4
.

assume that the thread is compact If we
d
n
= 0,0357 0,097,
9 , 0
7 , 6
=



Figure 10.9. Movement or per cylinder Figure 10.10. The cross-section or

a cross sectional
S
n
= 5,88 10
-3
.

Elastic modulus of these or E = 3100 M Pa, and the inertial moment of cross section

I = d
4
n
/64.

Accepting input torque or T
o
= 5 cN, which corresponds
to a real state at warp knitting, thread-tension at point A will be
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( )
cN
d D
EI
T T
n
o A
54 , 0
0485 , 0 3 , 0 2
64
097 , 0
10 1 , 3
5
2 2
2
2
4
5
2
=
+

=
+
=

.

As a result contradicts the real situation, or the knitting, we have to fit your budget or
derived by the theory of thin rigid solid shaft (body).
We'll take the thread to the construction of the elementary filaments, arranged in
layers on the surface of the needle (Figure 10.10). Being considered or the distance
between the layers
b = r . 0216 , 0 0125 , 0 73 , 1 ; 3 mm x b = =

Modulus of elasticity for elementary or E = 3400 M Pa. The coefficient of friction or the
steel = 0.26, polyamide or by any = 0.40.
Elementary stiffness or the bending in cN mm
2


EI = E ;
64
el
d
EI = 3,4 10
5
. 10 52 , 6
64
025 , 0
3
=



Diameter of curvature of individual layers are as follows:

r
1
= 0,3125 mm; r
2
= 0,334 mm; r
3
= 0,356 mm.

Tightening the elementary or the direct line of any part of the input branch is
0.417 cN, then tightening elementary or in individual layers or complex described as: T
01

= 2.085 cN; T
02
= 1,668 cN; T
03
= 1,251 cN.
Tightening cN by layers in the radial cross section A (as in a similar 10.9)is:

T
A1
= T
01
- ;
2
2
1
r
EI
T
A1
= 1,92;

T
A2
= T
02
- ;
2
2
2
r
EI
T
A2
= 1,55;
T
A3
= T
03
-
;
2
2
3
r
EI
T
A3
= 1,17.
Tension, cN in contact with the needle, at the intersection of B layers is determined by
the formula
( )
( )
( ) ( ) [ ]
( ) ( ) [ ]
( ) [ ]( )
.
1 73 , 1
1 73 , 1
1
1
3
2
1 73 , 1
1 1 1
1
|
|

\
|
+ +
+ + +

+ + =

=
+ + +
+
+
r R i r R
i r R r R
e x
x T e T
i
i r R r R
T
A
r R
r
B
i
r R Ai




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If the wrapping angle of the needle when it contacts the thread is equal to the

= (0.3 +0.0125) = 0.98.
Further calculations give
. 26 , 2
26 , 0
1
= =
+

e e
r R


Tightening point B in layers:

T
B1
= 9,41cN; T
B2
= 0,48cN; T
B3
= 0,39cN.

Tummy complex or at the point of her coming down from the needle is, cN:

. 36 , 0
2
2
3
1
=

i
EI


. 36 , 0
2
2
3
1
=

i
EI


T
1
= T
B
+ ;
2
3
1
2

= i
i
EI

T
1
= 10,28+0,36= 10,64.

If you calculate that the thread is absolutely elastic, it will tighten the leading branch,
determined by formula Euler, cN,
T
1
= T
0
e

= 5e
0,26
; T
1
= 11,31 cN.
We can see that, by accepting any of absolutely elastic, we obtain the result of budget
tightening its branch increased by 0.6 cN.

10.3.3. The equilibrium position of the
cylindrical half loop surface

Taking into account the above assumptions we consider half loop balanced position,
which we model equilibrium thread, draped over cylindrical shaft so that its end
located in the plane cross-section of shaft (Figure 10.11). Balanced position or appears,
for example, in the case moving the grip by the arrow K and reserves at the end or the
tension T. This equilibrium position is characterized by pitch angle to the surface plane of
the loop cross section grip , whose value should be taken into account in calculations.
Practical determination of the equilibrium position of half loop these conditions is
difficult because of the impossibility of determining features of shape or by contacting
the cylindrical surface, taking into account the change or the length of that part. Accept
that part or, contacting with the cylindrical surface, the established balance remains in
the plane half loop. Let shifted thread through the cylindrical shaft has a resultant tension
T, and tightening both ends or identical and equal to T
0
. Approximate values of angle
is determined as follows.

Consider any element dS in its arbitrary cross section . This element is in equilibrium
under the influence of force T
0
, dN, dF. and reactions to an element shaft threads.
Elemental frictional force acting on an element or, in scheme, written as:

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dF = dN,

where dN-elementary normal component;
-friction coefficient of any (different for different kinds of threads).
dN = 2T
0
sin d/2 cos .

Angle d is small, then we can express it through the port and write it as:
dN = T
0
cos

d .

Substituting the previous expression, we get
dF = T
0
cos

d .

Cumulative force of friction is determined as the integral over a corner
handle comprehensive strands:
F = T
0
cos . cos
0
0

T d =



Elementary normal component, shown in line drawings, will form
dN
R
= dNcos = T
0
cos cos

d .

Figure 10.11. Balance transfer to a
cylindrical surface
General normal force is expressed as the integral
of the comprehensive corner:
N
R
= 2T
0
cos

2
0
cos


d ;
N
R
= 2T
0
cos sin . 2 /
In accordance with the scheme
tg = F/N
R
= ;
2
sin cos 2
cos
0
0

T
T

tg = .
2
sin 2



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From these last two formulas we see that the equilibrium position of the loop determine
the angle , which depends on the coefficient of friction or the angle of a comprehensive
or with handles. It can be called the reduced angle of friction.
At the time of deviation half loop comprehensive angle a , = closure

tg = 1.57


10.3.4. The equilibrium position of the yarn
with her laying on pins and needles

Case study, when the yarn is taken to one basis needle knitting machines.
This corresponds to the scheme, when the yarn is transferred through the shaft so that
its end lies in the plane cross-section handle and there is friction between yarn and hand
le. Will allow, that the yarn can only move along the shaft, and tightening along its axis is
missing. In figure 10.12,and showed a pattern of this position. The handle is a line I-
I. This may be the edge of the needle or its hooks. The balance of the yarn is made
using a moving handle, for example, by the arrow K and is characterized by the
angles and , the ends of the yarn made with the direction of shaft or body of the
pin. Tightening of both branches are identical and equal to T.
According to their geometry, we get the resultant R, which deviates from the normal to
the handle of the angle = (- (/ 2.
To distill the resultant R of the horizontal and vertical component of R
1
and R
2
.Steady
state of the yarn on the handle will be achieved then, when the horizontal component to
be a balanced force of friction F.
Determine the dependence of the angles and in equilibrium yarn according to the
scheme in figure 10.12, and:
= 90
o
+ ; = 90
o
.

a b
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c
Figure 10.12. Schematic equilibrium Yarn

Subtracting one depending on the other, we get - = 2. In this way, the presence
of friction in steady-state switches to handle the angle will be different from to 2.,
that is, = - 2. Apparently, when the steady state is characterized by its switch positi
on when <, will be smaller than for 2, i.e. = - 2, where is the reduced-
friction angle, size of which is necessary to determine.
In reality the relationship between the angles and is more complicated,as the esta-
as the blished balance of the yarn when changing angles, changing length of a branch of
the yarn, the yarn tension is created along its axis. Tightening is accomplished in the
presence of friction, then a branch of the yarn tension is uneven, leading to the appeara
nce of additional friction, which show the influence of the dependence of the angles
and .
In the considered case includes handle for yarn spiral line, since the geodesic distan
ce between two points on the lateral surfaces, if not lies in the plane cross-section
If yarn includes wheel of a of shaft nay be screw lines, geodetic line, it will be tightening
its branches determined by Euler's formula:
T
1
= T
o
e

,
where the -angle pincer grip yarn.

For a comprehensive line of helical angle is determined by scheme, shown
in Figure 10.12, b from the formula
d = d/r sin
2
,

where d - elemental arc length of a complete line.;
r-radius cylinder;
-angle, winding line created with the given cylinder.

Comprehensive angle in practice it is very difficult to measure, be cause the analytical
determination of the value of the angle we need to do some conversion.

Element in designing the plane, the vertical axis of the shaft:

dS = dsin ; dS = r d
Substituting we get,

d = rd/ sin.
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After replacing this formula in the formula of a comprehensive line of helical angle, the
expression for the elemental form will receive a comprehensive angle
d = sin d.

Here, as in the formula of a comprehensive line of helical angle, is a comprehensive
angle, measured in the plane, the vertical axis of the shaft (cylinder).
To establish a dependence between the angles and in the considered case of a
balance transfer to single out the handle of the yarn element d (Figure 10.12, c) and we
consider the conditions of its equilibrium. This element occupies a position close to
the spatial curve spiral line. In figure 10.12, c considered element is shown in two projec
tions. Tightening across the component will be T
1
and T
o
+ dF, where dF -change
tension calculated by Euler's formula. Suppose that the change of angle for
d angle is changed to d. Projecting element d with all the forces acting on it in the
plane P, with respect to the element, and by conditioning its balance recording
projections on axes X and Y, lying in tangential plane.
X = 0, dFa + T
1
cos d/2 cos( + d) ( T
o
+ dF )cos d/2 cos = 0;
Y = 0; T
1
d/2 sin( + d) ( T
0
+ dF )cos d/2 sin = 0;
dF
a
= dN;
dN = ( T
1
+ T
0
+dF)sin d/2,

where the dFa -elemental frictional force acting on the element of yarn,
calculated by the formula Amontona;
dN-elementary normal reaction to an element shaft yarn.

Solving the last two equations, we get
dF = ( T
1
+ T
0
+dF) sin d/2.

From the equation for the elemental force found
( T
0
+ dF) = T
1
+ .
sin
) (

d +

Substituting the last two values in Equation projection on the X axis, we get
T
1
( ) [ ] ( ) . 0 cos ) sin( cos sin
2
sin sin
sin
2
cos
= + + + + +

d d
d
tg d
d


The expression behind these brackets is zero, equating to zero the expression in
parentheses and the action necessary trigonometric conversion. In fact in mind, that d
d and infinitely small.
2sin ( ) [ ] ; 0 sin
2 2
cos
2
= + +
+ +


d
d
tg
d d

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2sin ; 0 sin
2 2
cos
2
=
+


d
d
tg
d d

2 . 0 sin
2 2
cos
2
sin cos
2
cos sin = +

d
d
tg
d d d

How and d d - infinitely small size, their sine and tangent can be calculated with
enough accuracy equal to the argument, and the product of two infinitely small time
difference can be neglected. With this transformation and substituting in this equation
the value of a comprehensive elementary angle d, we get
sin2 d - d = 0;
d = d/sin
2
.
Pincer grip angle of yarn throughout spiral line described as the integral from 0 to ,
a branch of the balanced tilt switch on the handle-like integral of and .

0
d = ;
sin
2

d

= (ctgctg) = ctgctg,
where the
ctg = +ctg; ctg = ctg.
The derived formula gives the relation between the angles and (Figure10.12, a),
which deployed near the ends of yarn with respect to a given handle in its equilibrium
state. As we see from the formula, these angles depend only on the angle
comprehensive handle yarn, measured in a plane cross section, and the coefficient of
friction and is independent of added stress to the ancestors.
This formula is derived for the case when steady state labeling position exceeds the
angles is exceeds the angles > , the performed analogous manner.
In practice the process of creating a loop measure angles and is not impossible.
For specific analysis of the process of creating a loop on the basis of knitting machines
need to introduce deposit model developed exceeds the difference between the angles
and as a characteristic of the steady state of the yarn.
The difference between the angles and for the case of the steady sate, characteri-
zed by a position switch with > , we perform the penultimate formula. Angles with
it can be stated as follows:
= arcctg(ctg);
= arctg(ctg+) = arctg[ctgarc(ctg)+].
Then the difference between the angles
= = arcctg(ctg)arcctg(ctg).
After transformation we get
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= arcctg[

+ ctg ctg ) ( 1
].ili
= arcctg( ctg ctg
2
/ 1/).
For evidence, to submit the character of reciprocity difference angle in a wide range
of changes in the angle , is made of this dependence graph (Figure 10.13).
Calculating the final formula was carried out for = 0.15 and the angle change from
0 to 180
o
. From the graphics we see that each curve has an extreme, which is extr
eme, which is moving towards the origin. Move increases with the comprehensive
perspective.
The resulting dependence was tested at the extremes with the help of the derivate.
The first statement has the form shown
f

() =
( )
.
1
1
sin / 1
2
2
2
(

+
+
|
|

\
|

ctg ctg
ctg


To determine the extremes solve the equation, equating the derivative to zero
f () = 0 In line with the previous expression we have
2 ctg / 1 = 0; ctg = /2.
The extreme value of angle

ekstr.
= arcctg(- 1/ + /4).



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The difference between the angles and for the case of the steady state switch,
characterized by its position at the corners <, we perform in a similar way
= arcctg(ctg + );
= arcctg(ctg) = arcctg[ctgarcctg(ctg+)].

The difference in this case equilibrium

= arcctg
( )
.
1
(

+ +

ctg ctg


Graph of this dependence is given in figure 10.14. The budget for the construction prints
executed by the previous formula for = 0.15 and changing the angle of 0 to 180
o
.
From the graphics we see that the extreme curves moves from the origin.
This transfer increases with the comprehensive perspective.
To verify the legality of statements we analyze experimentally establishing the value
of the difference of angles and at different angles comprehensive yarn around the
handle.
On balance scheme yarn (Figure 10.12, a) we see that the maximum difference
between the angles and appearances then, when the ends of yarn classified under
the same angle to the handle and, therefore, when = 0 In this scheme the
equilibrium position of the yarn laying starts in the scheme of balanced position half
loop. The reduced friction angle in this case is equated with a reduced angle
of friction previously given formula and is determined by the formula = = 90- .
In this way, the earlier formula for the approximate value of reduced friction angle in
the case of equilibrium half loop accurately determined on the basis of performed analys
is and receive form

tg = / 2,

where -angle wrapping yarn on the handle, measured in a plane cross-section shaft.

11. Determination of parameters of laying the yarn in the
knitting process base on knitting machines and their analysis

Analysis of the process of creating a loop of warp knitting machines points to the
complexity of the interactions of each other working groups and warp yarn.
Loops are created simultaneously on all pins from various warp yarns. The type of loop
(closed or open) and the character of their connection depends on the structure
of warp knitted knitwear. Length of connect parts of the deposit depends on the yarn
to the needle.
In figure 11.1 shows the spatial pattern of taking the yarn to the needles. We'll
discuss the process of creating a loop at the needle-I, IV and V. After creating the
loop (position a') to the guide and the needle turns the back needle, then passing the
needle IV and V pins in position 3'.
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Figure 11.1. Taking the warp yarn to the needles

Also pitting in front of the needle hooks needle turns in the opposite direction and moves
up to position 3, then the IV needle creating a loop. If you turn the needle perforated the
needle hook is also in that direction, then it will create a loop on a pin V The character
movement perforated needles in the last cycle determines the type (closed or open)
loop. From this we see that the yarn at one and the same cornering perforated needle
behind the needle can take the IV and V pins. Moving pitting needles and knitting needl
es and their arrangement on the machine determine the conditional passing the yarn.
Further we see that the parts exceeds 1-2, 2-3' are not being distribut
ed in one plane.

For a proper full assessment of warp knitting machines, it is necessary to know not only
the duration of each stage or moment in the process of creating a loop, but other
parameters of interaction and cross authority working machines, which allow you to
choose the proper law of motion of working bodies and the proper calculation of their
migration. Analysis of the process of creating loops in general are committed to many
researchers. Deeper analysis of the process of creating loops on High-speed warp
knitting machines gave Moisenko, Radzievski and Bondar.
The cycle of creating a loop order within the very low position needle. Created half
loop is under the hook of the needle. When creating a new order following loop pins are
raised up, a half loop to bring the body of needles. Future phases of the laying and the
other, creating a new line loop. Loop is created when completely separates from the
needle, before the separation of the needles she was still half loop.
In the general scheme of interaction with the working yarn machine bodies (Figure
11.2) and shown to the plane of the geometric model of the laying (Figure 11.2, b) the
relevant direction of the edge of the needle II, which interacts with the yarn in counts 2
and 2'. Line II-II is the path of movement of the center hole 3 needle perforated. Counts
3 and 3' are the final positions of perforated needles. Direction III-III is the upper edge
on which platinum is laying yarn curls first point Item 4 of the aperture axis pointing the
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rod warp bridge, or tension mechanism. Yarn in the process of creating a loop at the
initial moment of the cycle goes from half loop over the point fold the top edge of the
platinum one, pitting the opening three pins, three edge warp bridge 4 and directing rod
shaft to warp. When the warp yarn still do not interact with the needle, it passes through
the points 1-3-4. When the warp yarn interacts with a needle, it passes through the
points 1-2-3-4 or 1-2'-3'-4. Part yarn 1-3 or 1-2-3 for 70-100 times lower than of 3-4, then
we can allow to move needle perforated from point 3 to point 3' does not change the
length of yarn 3-4. The following analysis of interaction with the knitting yarn authorities
will consider only the cross sections 1-2-3 or 1'-2'-3' (Figure 11.2, b). .
At an intermediate stage of laying the yarn takes the position 1-2'-3 '. In addition to in
paragraph 2' yarn is clamped over the handle of the needle. When moving the needle
perforated the point 3' in point 3 stems laying the yarn on the hook needles, which
corresponds to the position of 1-2-3 models exceed the laying. Count 2-fold yarn in place
of needles. Its location is determined complete by raising the needle (Figure 11.2, a).

At one point resulted in the turning of the
longitudinal perforation needles (leg rails)
yarn is clamped to the upper edge of
platinum.The position of this point does
not depend on the longitudinal and transver
se moving perforated needle, then it is not
changed in the process of taking, and still
be considered part of the 1-2-3 switch.


Figure 11.2. Exceed the laying scheme

It is certain, that cross the elbow on the
upper edge of platinum caused by the turn
of the longitudinal perforation needles size, more than one needle steps to create the
closed loop. When calculating Knitting Machine systems represent the maximum
interest turns perforated needle, there by presumably to curl yarn creates the upper
edge platinum.

From the above we see that in the process of laying the yarn on the needle length of
yarn 1-2-3 changes. Change the length of the yarn comes her way back from the warp
through perforated needles, compensating device and directing rods. Compensation
changes the length of yarn passing can also arise as a result of her before tightening
the half loop and loop lines previously created loop. As the calculations showed, at warp
knitting at the moment of closing the base length of half loop significantly increases, as a
half loop includes elements of needles, a diameter that increases by 3-4 times. Yarn for
such compensation significantly increases the length of the base of the loop to the arrival
of the perforated needle, and taking the last newly created, rows of loops. Degree at the
same time taking the yarn with the needles and perforated by rows of loops depends on
the yarn tension equalizing conditions of those parts. Tummy parts laid yarn depends on
the yarn tension in the system passes, tension knitwear and yarn angle comprehensive
summary of all directing bars, elements of needles, needle perforated (guide), platinum
and elements of the loop. At the time of closing a comprehensive summary corner,
elements of the first loop loops row count from to 2, and the second row of to
4. In this way, the closing at the end of the execution length of yarn in half loop reaches
maximum size, a certain element of its comprehensive diameter needle. In further
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operation of the process of creating the position of the loop half loop still does not
change. Then the scheme of taking yarn the observed accept, to a point (Figure 11.1.
and 11.2) and fasten the yarn can be obtained only from the needle the perforated
needles.
The analysis of diagrams of warp knitting machines shows that the operation of taking
the yarn to the needles within the top position needle bearing, when the speed of its
movement is zero. At that time also pitting needles are ending their movement, and their
speed is also zero. In this way, after taking the stage length of yarn laid changes. i not,
therefore, no movement of the yarn along its axis.
These two positions we get in making geometric models laying yarns in the design of
devices, modeling of the equilibrium position of the yarn in her deposit Elementary
needle knitting machines.
In figure 11.1 is evident that the parts laid yarns do not lie in one plane. In Figure 11.3
shows the scheme of laying the yarn in two projections. Marking points on all schemes
(Figure 11.1-11.3.) Accept the same. In this way, the presented schemes Parts 1-2 and
2-3 exceed projections appear to exceed the laying. From the scheme is evident that the
position of point 2 determines the position of points 3 and 1 If point 3 has Towards
Pitting needle and moves in an orbit II-II by a specific law, it may point to a weave, or
pattern does not change position. Mutual position of points 1 and 2 is caused by the
sample provided by laying the yarn is given, it is the number of specimens of steps, the
pins get where the needle perforated longitudinal movement of needles in front of (the
needle).
To simplify the task of analyzing the process of taking the yarn, reduced the scheme
of taking the plane, parallel to the plane platinum and passing through the axis of the
hook needles. To this point 1 and 3 are moved according to the plane, the opposite edge
of the needle in plane reduction (Figure 11.1-11.3, a).
We can see that given the changed permission only comprehensive cross angle of the
edges of the needle at point 2, which will be done in the analysis. Given the analysis of
the guide exceeds discard the angles
1
and
2
(Figure 11.3, b), created pursuant to the
yarn and straight needles and platinum, and then pins adopted comprehensive angle
yarn divisible by / 2 .
In this way the scheme of laying the yarn on the hook needle is reduced to the status
of parts of the 1-2-3 scheme yarn (Figure 11.2, b). Laying scheme to handle the yarn
needle is reduced to the status of parts of the scheme 1'-2'-3' yarn. The scheme in
Figure 11.2, b tags were introduced, necessary for the analysis depending on the
position of item 2 of the yarn on the verge of moving the needle perforated (item 3).

The equilibrium position of the parts laid yarn is characterized by the angles and ,
angles which are made parts move from the edges of needles.
Analysis of taking yarn helps to determine:

The optimal condition for taking the cross, that is, showing reciprocal relationship
moving knitting needles and perforation, the mutual position of their orbits and the size
of the temporary relocation;
The legality of the move point 2 fold yarn on the edge of the needle in the process of
laying the yarn, which is necessary in order to move the needle of a certain size, and
analysis work.
The computational scheme we introduce the parameters, which in large degree determin
es the position of point 2 fold yarn on the edge of the needle:

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m-moving perforated needles laying (his part);
e-technological parameter;
h, -design parameters.

The necessity of introducing the values of other parameters and the selection will
be clearer from the following reasoning.
Size will appear as a projection of 1-2 move to the opposite edge folds flat yarn.
File is processed to determine weave, or pattern, that is, turning in front of the perforated
needle knitting needles and behind them.
Figure 11.3. Frontal appearance (a) and appearance from above (b) scheme of taking
yarn warp yarn system adding conditions of creation and analysis of various warp knitted
interlacement.

Longitudinal turning size perforated needles is always divisible by step needles t, which
characterize the fineness machines:

F = 25.4 / t,

where the 25.4-metric or an English-inch size in mm.
In accordance with the scheme in figure 11.3, b file will be shown the
following dependence:

e = t (n k),

where n- is the number of needle-step, which draws the laying after the needle (passing
under the needle);
k-coefficient, which features half of step machines, which depends on the loop
(closed or open) and the process of its creation.

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Size necessarily characterized by the previous formula of technological opportunities
machines, then the calculations need to take the maximum, to ensure the possibility of
making all the given range of their creation, which appears as a basic transfer perforated
needles (parameters m and e) and the gradual nature of their creation from a given
yarn prior to the last row of interlacement, and also embracing the angle at the point
needles yarn curls or folds.
Coefficient k, depending on the type of loop and its gradual creation of a
comprehensive angle yarn needle for creating instances of the loop can be established
from consideration figures 11.3, b, which is longitudinally perforated needles and turn
their passage shown by arrows. Parameter is presented in parts 1-N
1
, 1-1-N
4
and N
5
.

We will consider the creation of different kinds of loops, for example, for n = 3
Laying the yarn for n = 3 from the output position perforated needle Y
1
allows to
achieve the creation of loops on needle N
3
or N
4
. In the first case, the parameter
e = 1-N
3
, t = 1.5 and according to the last formula, the coefficient k = 1.5. Wrapping
angle of the needle with yarn N
3
= 3/2.
In another case, when creating loops on the needle size is N
4
= 1-N
4
= 2.5 t, that is,
the value of the coefficient k = -0.5. Wrapping angle of the needle with yarn = / 2.
The laying of the yarn for n = 3 from the output position perforated needle Y
2
let
achievement of creating loops on the needle N
4
and N5.
needle
perforated
needle
Platinum
(sinker)
y
6
y
5
y
4
y
3
y
2
y
1

a
b
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Analogous way we find that in the first case, e = 1-N
4
= 2.5t, corresponding to k = 0.5
and = 3/2. In the second case e = 1-N
5
=3.5 t, that is, the coefficient
k = +0.5. Comprehensive angle = / 2 .
In the process of taking the yarn takes the equilibrium position of 1-2-3 (Figure 11.3,
b) taking into account the friction between yarn and needle. Coefficient of friction can be
introduced into the geometrical model, the angle of friction. Carried dependence, the
angles and , characterizing this state, they differ from each other for the size of
e. Also part of the 1-2 switch connecting with the direction angle II, in part, 2-3 makes
the angle + e. At this point 3 moves in the direction of O
2
-3. When moving the opposite
corner point 3 will be in accordance with and -.
The values of the coefficient friction accept greater range of processed yarn on a
given machine.

11.1.Position point fold yarn in her laying
on pins and needles
Based on the above we can conclude that the model taking the warp yarn in Figure 11.2,
b reflects (with accepted permission) the terms of laying the yarn on warp knitting
machine.
Essential dependence of the position of point fold cross X of constant parameters e, h,
, and variable parameter m is possible to perform the geometric model of the laying.
In the process of taking possible to extract the following four equilibrium states of
laying the yarn:
steady state, which is caused by the perforation needle moving in the direction of O
2
-3,
or by moving the needle upward. This steady state is characterized by the angles and
= + e;
steady state, which is caused by the perforation needle moving in the direction of 3-O
2
,
or when moving the needle down. This equilibrium is characterized by the angles and
= -;
steady state, which is caused by the perforation needle moving in the direction of O
2
-3,
or when moving the needle upward. In the process of taking this move as the position of
the point of her bows in the handle pins. This steady state labeling angles
1
and

1
=
1
+ ;
steady state, which is caused by the perforation needle moving in the direction of 3'-O
2

or relocate the needle down. This equilibrium is characterized by the angles
1
and

1
-
1
= .
We will consider the first condition, which is characterized by the geometric model
(Figure 11.2, b) position of the parts move in relation to the direction angle and I and
+ .
The equation for the position of point fold yarn to the needles in this case derive from
the given model.
For 1-2-O
1
have
tg = e / h-X.

From 2-3-O
2
the sinus theorem we get

( ) ( ) + +
=
+ sin sin
X m


or

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X(tg cos + sin) = m[tg cos(+) + sin ( + )].

Substituting before the last expression in the last equation, and after some turning we
get following quadratic equation:

X
2
sin X(m sin( + ) +e cos +h sin ) +m(h sin ( +) + e cos( += =0.

Solving this equation and rejection root does not match the physical sense. The
resulting solution of the equation in the form
X = m/2 cosec ( ) ( ) ,
4
sin sin
2
(

+ +
m
u t u t

where the parameters t, u, in accordance with accepted values t
1
, u
1
,
1
, where the

t
1
= ;
u
1
= ; cos sin

m m
h
+
= e sin

Consider the second position, when the pitting needle moves in the direction of 3-O
2

or needle moved downwards. The equilibrium position of the yarn being laid
characterized the position of cross sections relative to the direction angles II and -.
The equation for the position of point fold yarn to the needles in this case also perform
similar patterns from geometric models of laying (Figure 11.2, b). Then the solution of
equations with parameters:
t
2
= ;
u
2
= u
1
= sin
m
h
- ; cos
m
e

2
= e sin+h cos ( 2 ) + h cos .

We will consider the third condition, when the yarn is laid on the tiller pin. In Figure
11.2, b this state the position of the parts 1'-2'-3' laid yarns, which are allocated in
relation to the direction II at angles and + .
Similar patterns derive the equation for the position of points on the handle folds move
the needle in this case the solution of equations with parameters:

t
3
= t
2
= ;
u
3
= u
1
= ; cos sin
m
e
m
h
+

3
= esin( 2) + h cos( 2) h cos.

Finally, consider the fourth position when the yarn is taken to handle a needle, a
laying moves in the direction of 3-O
2
, or pins to move downwards. The equilibrium
position of the yarn being laid characterized the position of cross sections relative to the
direction angles II and -.
In this case the equation for the position of the point of fold yarn needle to the hilt the
equation with parameters:

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t
4
= t
1
= +;
u
4
= u
1
= ; cos sin
m
e
m
h


= e sin( + 2).

Derived equations appear to describe the position of mathematical points 2 fold yarn
to the needles at the time of laying, depending on the moving perforated needle, which is
realized by a specific law. The parameters h, , is also the date knitting systems,
made-made yarn and weave in a single cycle loop creation are constant.
Along with the given strict extract appropriate for the simplification of engineering
calculation formula knitting authorities here are moving the mathematical description of
the position of point fold yarn to the needles at the time of deposit, set up the initial
approximate solution of the quadratic equation.
Consider the first position, which is the geometric model of the laying (Figure 11.2, b)
characterizes the position of parts move in relation to the direction II at angles and
+ .
The equation for the position of point fold yarn to the needles in this case is derived
from the given model.
For 1-2-O
1
and 2-3-O
2
have
tg = /h X ;
= arctg .
X h
e



By sinus theorem will write down the equation

.
) sin( ) sin( +
=
+
X m



By replacing the penultimate equation in the last, we get

.
sin sin
|

\
|
+ +

=
|

\
|
+


X h
e
arctg
X
X h
e
arctg
m


Solving equation with respect to X, we get

X = .
1
sin cos
|
|
|
|

\
|
+


tg
X h
e
tg
X h
e
m

After some transformation and grouping will get the following quadratic equation:

X
2
tg X[m (sin + cos tg) + h tg + e]+ m[e(cos sin tg ) + h (sin +
+ cos tg )] = 0.
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Solving the quadratic equation we get the following solution:


( ) ( )
( )
.
m
e
tg cos - sin
tg cos sin tg sin - cos e
X
+
+
+ +
=



tg h
h


We will consider another position switch, when pitting needle moves in the direction of
3-O
2
or needle moved downwards. The equilibrium position of the yarn being laid
characterized the position of cross sections relative to the direction angles and I and
-.
The equation for the position of point fold yarn to the needles in this case, derived
from the geometric model of the laying (Figure 11.3, b) can be rewritten as

X =
( ) ( )
( )
.

tg cos - sin
tg cos sin tg sin cos
m
e tg h
h e

+ +





Will look at the third position of the yarn when she lays on the tiller pin. In figure 11.3,
b this is the position of the parts 1'-2'-3' passing move, which is distributed with respect
to the direction of II at angles and + .


( ) ( )
( )
.
tg cos sin
tg cos sin tg sin cos
m
e htg
h e
+

+




Consider fourth position switch, when it is placed on the shaft pins and perforated
needles are moved in the direction of 3'-O
2
or needle moving downwards. The
equilibrium position of the yarn being laid characterized the position of cross sections
relative to the direction angles II and -.
The equation for the position of point fold yarn needle to the hilt in this case is
performed in a similar way:

X =
( )
( )
.
tg cos sin
tg cos (sin tg sin cos
m
e htg
h e
+
+
+





From the above formulas point position curl yarn parameter m is a variable size. On
warp knitting machines, this corresponds to moving the perforated needle, which is
realized by a specific law. The parameters h, e, , for a given machine, spinning and
interlacement during one cycle constant.
The first two formulas position point fold yarn, analyze impact of each of the
parameters which enter the formulas in this position point fold yarn to the needles at the
time of laying . Primarily determined by the limit (maximum) value of the coordinates of X
bends in the limit values of the parameter m. When m = 0., X = 0, for m =
X = / .

Via L' Hpital's rules separation this ambiguity:

( ) ( )
.
tg cos sin
tg cos sin tg sin cos
lim


+
+ +
=

h e
X
x m
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Dividing members, we get
.
tg cos sin
tg sin cos
lim h e X
x m
+
+





Acceptance angle value = 90, close to the real conditions of organ distribution of
knitting, the expression simplifies the following ways:

. lim
90

etg h X
o
x m
=
=



In figure 4.11 shows the scheme of laying the yarn on the needles at the limit values
of laying the parameter, which appears as a special case of the geometric model of the,
as shown in figure 11.2, b. We will accept that the labeling of both schemes are
equal. From the analysis of patterns we see that at = 90
o
and m X tends to a
certain size, which appears maximum. In accordance with the time going up the position
of the laying exceeds 2-3 parallel the direction II-II, and the angle + = 90
o
. In this
way, we can write:


max
90
X
o
= = h e tg .

The values of X at the corner of > 90, and that the direction II-II ', II''-II'', can be
spread across the border edge of the plate (the direction III-III), which the budget is not a
necessity. Characteristic is one interstitial value X, at which the direction of yarn
2'-3' coincides with the direction of 1-2' cross. This position corresponds to the
equilibrium position of the half loop closing phase.
To be analyzed my influence each parameter on the position of point fold yarn to the
needles have been constructed, this dependence graphically as a function of variable m
(Figure 11.5).
The diagrams are presented depending on the variable X at different values of
parameters h, , e, and tg. Diagrams are constructed with values close to the real, the
one shown in the diagrams.
The diagram in Figure 11.5 shows how the changes affect any of the parameters to
change the position of point fold yarn to the needles X. Dependence constructed for
certain values of the variables m (in the particular case m = 8) and the diagram shown in
f5.11.
The diagram (Figure 11.5) is evident that the increased values of the parameters e,
and tg value of X is reduced and the increased value of the parameter h increases.

12. Budget knitting warp knitting machine system
12.1. Budget moving needle

Conducted several studies of interactions between knitting authorities allow to solve
problems knitting budget systems, and on behalf of the budget size of the temporary
relocation warp knitting machines.
In relation to the tasks it is necessary to characterize some of the mechanisms of
movement directions knitting organs.
In the process of creating a loop in the studied warp knitting machines take the parts
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of the following organs: pointed, needle, needle pitting,
platinum and presses. All these parts except brakes, water the plants in the lead spills,
and attached to appropriate rail or beam. Press is actually a thin fiber panel that attaches
directly to the press rail.



Figure 11.4. Analysis of the balance Figure 11.5. Graphic Changes
exceeds the laying parameters X

To ensure the needs of the working bodies of the loop creation machine must be perfor-
med reversibly-governing movement, taking in the process of creating a particular
creating a particular order loop position relative to each other.
Mechanisms of movement knitting bodies making up the machine.
When improving mechanisms is not necessary to solve only a matter of choosing the
most appropriate laws of motion of its elements, but also regular budget transfer
authority knitting and optimal deployment of the se moves.
Regarding the issue of perfection Elementary high speed knitting machines have dealt
with many foreign researchers, who examined in detail the issue of choice knitting
bodies, construction cycle diagram, the election laws of motion knitting body cam mecha
nisms.
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It must be emphasized that these issues only meet certain deficiencies in the design of
mechanisms Elementary knitting knitting machines and do not address the issue in its
entirety.Thus, in the works perfectly does not reflect the issue of kinematics analysis and
synthesis of mechanisms drive bar linkages knitting bodies, their precision,dynamics and
other issues of designing knitting system, without which there is no solution to the design
of mechanisms.




Figure 12.1. Graphic changes in the parameters of
moving the needle perforated

N. M. Vasilyev was determined by controlling the position of knitting body and gave the
motion path calculation methodology perforated needles and final platinum and
calculation method of determining the parameters of uniform knitting systems necessary
to achieve the required process of knitting, at the given structure of implementation
mechanisms. He has developed original technical solutions for a knitting system and two
warp right-left- knitting machines. Also worked out by budget knitting system can not be
fully apply the budget system of machines with multiple perforated needles (Leg rails), or
warps, high speed, or tubular supplied pointed needles.
The cycle of creation loop line beginning at the low position of needles. To create a
loop nest level is necessary to get below half loop hook needles to laying warp yarn, and
from it formed a loop. This is achieved thanks to the raising of the needle, at the same
time half loop is retained throat platinum. On warp knitting machines of this kind raise
comes in two stages, limited in time.
For research we apply the normal size and shapes of organs for knitting machine
given fineness.
The cycle of creation loop line beginning at the lower position of needles, when the
half loop is in the heads of pins. To create a loop nest level is necessary to bring the
loop half of the body or handle needles, so that in future phases of the cycle of creating
loops of half loop create a loop. To achieve this it is necessary to raise the needle
up. Needles on the body half loop is retained throat platinum, to be able to freely carry
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out laying the warp yarn on the needle tips of the hooks. As we have said earlier
withdrawal needle on these types of machines comes in two stages, separated in time.
For research we accept the size and shapes knitting authority pursuant to normal for this
fineness machines. Analysis, what must be the size of the first and second lift.

The needle has to be raised so that half loop from the head of needles came under the
needle hooks to the body of needles, to be able to laying smooth yarn to the tops of
peaks needles. The needle is raised to the height h
1
(Figure 12.1)
Raising the needle must be such as to place the yarn does not fold at the top of the
needle peak, but the body of the needle. This is necessary because, in order to relax the
next yarn needle slid under the hooks to the head pin. This requirement corresponds to
the position of the needle during its raising of the height h
2
(Figure 12.1) .
Move should be preferably a minimum in order to move the law needles must be
provided a minimum of changes to create tension and size of the loop.
Mark II-II, X, h, a', 1, 2, 2', 3, 3', match the diagram in figures 11.1-11.3.
Needle, by raising the height h
1
, has the height, the time comes laying the yarn with
the corresponding movement of perforated needles. We can see that the whole needle
lift to the height h
2
is determined laying the yarn on the needle and the position of the
half loop on the needle body.
It is certain, that the machine determines the fineness processed exceeds a certain
longitudinal mass. For warp knitting machines no more frequently depending on the
length of yarn in the base part of the loop and the depth of weft h
k
. At one and the same
depth of cooling, but also at different connections (combinations) tightening warp yarns
and yarn tension is possible to obtain its viscosity to a limited extent. The depth of
cooling is usually indicated in the technological documentation to determine the machine
as a set parameter .
In introducing computational formulas knitting moving bodies is necessary to apply the
maximum depth weft h
k
machine given fineness, providing the maximum length of yarn
in the base part of the loop. The required length of yarn to weave in the base part should
be smaller than the computational formulas, which we achieve appropriate regulation of
the knitting system.
Documentation review of leading companies in setting up knitting warp knitting
machine system shows that the depth of cooling depends on the fineness h
k
machine
(step pins t) and can be expressed by the following dependence:

h
k
= 1.5 t.

When creating a new loop needle drops down below the edge of the throat the size of
platinum
ab = h
k
(Figure 12.2). When lifting the needle of the loop takes ab position A'B ', so that
the repulsive lines moved and will be more in line with the top of the head of platinum,
and the force of friction between the needle and yarn of the A'B' loop deviates from the
normal to the body pins angle .
Reasoning presented in accordance with the scheme in figure 12.2 on the needle lift
height H
1
can be expressed as:

h
1
= h
k
1+sin) + 2r

+i,

where -angle deviation from the normal loop and body of the pin;
r

-throat diameter platinum in mm;


i-distance from the head pins to the bottom of the bowl in mm.
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Figure 12.2. Schematic moving needle

Sin calculated values at low values of the angle according to the formula which we
have previously stated:
sin = 1.57 ,
where is the coefficient of friction on the yarn needle.

Height h
2
lift pins formulated according to the needs of the scheme in figure12.2 can
be expressed dependence
h
2
= h
1
+ a - r - X,

where a- length of hook-pins in mm;
r-diameter hole perforated needles;
X-file, which characterizes the position of points in its fold yarn laying in mm.

Analysis of the laying exceeds the needle warp knitting machines shows that the
position of point fold yarn to the needles (size X)determine the dependence we have alre
dy given above.
Designing machines it is necessary calculations to be made to ensure the processing
of yarn and manufacture all weave, the set for a given machines, then the calculation
formula must take the maximum or minimum values of the parameters. The
analysis establishes the character of the yarn laying the influence of each of the input
parameters in the formula.




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12.2. Empirical formula for moving different
types of needles

To perform the empirical formula, which determines the position of points in its fold
cross laying on the hook needles, we will introduce the previously given expression for X
of values of optimal parameters:

X = .
1 , 0 8 , 0 5 , 1
8 , 0 2 , 0 2 , 0 2 5
2
r t
r tr t t
+
+ +


Given formula is characterized by the position of point fold yarn at her laying on the
fixed part of the hook needles. The formula takes into account the size of the needles
turn pitting "the needle" on the 4 steps needles, cross processed by the coefficient of
friction = 0.25 and uninvolved yarns adjacent perforated needles laying the yarn on the
needle body.
Analogous way we get an empirical formula for the position of point fold yarn in her
laying on the hooks and the body in direct and opposite load perforated needles.
To perform the empirical formula for certain pins to raise the height h
1
(Figure 12.1)
but using the given formula and taking the coefficient of friction = 0.25 yarn and the
expression of fineness by machinery needle steps, we get

h
1
= 8,6+3,3t+2r
p
.


Substituting the last formula in the previous X in the formula given earlier for the H
2

will get the formula to fully raise the needle to the height h
2
(Figure 12.1):

h
2
= . 2
8 , 0 4 , 1
3 ' 2 2 , 1 4 18 18
2
p
r
t
r tr t t
+
+
+ +


This last formula will include a structural body size of knitting, and, rp, expressed
through the steps needles t, taking into account the technical factor-length of yarn in the
base part of the loop, accepting a maximum processing machines to date and the
fineness of the needle in terms of the steps t.
The cycle of creation needle order on the machines, we achieve a combined latch or
needles, ends up also at the lower position of needles. To create a loop nest level
necessary to introduce a half loop under the needle hooks so that they are assigned
lower bowl of needles, needles and in the case of combined lower channel closure
needle (for warp knitting machines coquette, where tubular needles are used in the
needle used to seal needles, rather than language or press). In order to achieve
awareness of needles, at the same time, half loop to retain the mouth of platinum or
platinum finishing bottom edge, or at the level repulsion due to tensile knitwear.
Home computational scheme for determining the amount of lift pins is shown in figure
12.5. In figure 12.5,a data transfer scheme is needles with tongue without a final
platinum. From the scheme we see that at the end of the time or phase closing half loop
ab distributed at the end of the bowl latch. Work force of friction between the tongue and
yarn of A'B' half loop is deducted from the normal to the edge of the bowl latch for the
friction angle . In relation to the repulsion of the ab plane deviates by the angle + ',
where the '-edge angle created by the bowl with the direction of moving the latch pin.
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In accordance with the presented reasoning, the formula previously given h
k
= 1.5 t
and pattern transfer needle (Figure 12.5, b, c) fully raise the needle to the height h
2
can
be expressed through depending
h
2
= 1.5 t [23
o
+ ')] + + E,

where the -distance between the bottom edge of the final platinum and guard the
plane.
The distance demonstrating through appropriate size of individual elements of
knitting body, the size of that change depending on the fineness of the machine. This
separation recognize that a uniform diameter hole needle perforated r.
Knitting Systems, equipped latch or a combined needle (tubular) create favorable
conditions for laying the yarn under the hook, as its size, as a rule, insignificant. This
also allows you to get the angle between the path and knitting needles movement
of pitting needles greater than 90
o
. From figure12.4 we see that the angle , becomes
greater than 75
o
, laying favorable conditions, especially with multiple line turn. When the
angle greater than 90 degrees, also improve conditions by introducing the second and
third warp yarn at break.


Figure 12.5. Transfer scheme:
a-Latch needles, b-Latch needles with a final platinum;
b-c-tubular plate.

If the equation given earlier for the balance exceeds the laying, the size of X equate the
size of a - r (Figure 12.5, a) and solve it with respect to , we get the optimal conditions
for the deployment of knitting organs.
By analogy reasoning combined total pumping head of needles h
2
is determined as
follows (Figure 12.5, c):

h
2
= 1,5t[1+sin(23
o
+)]+2r
p
+E,

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where the E-distance from the head pin to the channel closure needles.

12.3. The process of laying the yarn behind
the needle on the circular latch knitting machines

In figure 12.6 is given diagram of the process laying the yarn behind the needles on a
circular knitting machine, which shows the path of movement of the head of two groups
of needles in the projections of the vertical and horizontal plane (Figure 12.6, a).
The motion path is divided into needles in the process of closing. Needle, where
necessary, and laying both yarn (P
p
plated and basic P
o
), were built above the normal
closure of (a group of needles) and are moving along the line I-III-V. Line III-V suits
sliding down the needle with the help of the machine locks. Needles, in relation to which
the yarn must pass clad behind his back, lifted up so that the descent would be made
half loop with the end tab (pin group b), and to move along the line II-IV-V.
P
p
Guide plated yarn is placed close to the needle so that the yarn behind schedule
needle group b. The point c needle 12 would be plunged (underscore) under the cross.
In order to facilitate the laying yarn needles behind the head pin is ejected forward so
that the neck line hooks needles found at the front of the body or handle of the needle
(Figure 12.6, b).

12.3.1. Budget moving perforated needle, presses and platinum

For laying the yarn on the needles need to pitting needles (guide) near the longitudinal
turning, according to a sample of cloth, with more moving in the transverse or lateral
direction.
The motion path of perforated needles shown and discussed in more schemes
direction II-II.
In considering questions of us laying yarn primarily interested in the movement of the
perforated needle in the opposite direction, when the yarn has already created the
crease at the edge of the hook. Previous analysis has shown that the maximum value, in
terms of the size of other working bodies, it can be accepted m = a - r.
The second part of the way moving perforated needles makes their move to end
position in the space needle, it is necessary for laying the yarn on the hook.
As each needle perforated the longitudinal end position gets the turn, the size of their
migration must be such that they completely leave the spaces between the needles. In
Figure 12.7 shows the pattern of perforated needles moving in an orbit II-II, where the
needle perforated shown in the end position (point 1 and 2) in the space between the
needles.
Let the number of perforated needles on the machine n. Width pitting needle-d. It is
essential that the gap between adjacent perforated express needles across the width d
perforated plate. Practitioners recognize that the gap is equal to d/2 then the width of
perforated needles will be
D = d / 2 (3n-1).

Move the needle perforated in the direction of point 2 must be greater than the width
of the size D
c
, which is necessary for the exercise of the longitudinal motion of
perforated needles. C file must be accurately determined in the design of laws moving
perforated needles.
In this way, completely remove the needle perforated

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H = D + m + c.

Substituting in this formula the values of input parameters, we will have

H = d / 2 (3n-1) + 5.7 + 1.4 t + c.



Figure 12.6. Schematic process of laying the yarn behind your back
latch needles for circular knitting machines



Figure 12.7. Transfer schemes (diversion) of perforated needles
Line neck
hooks
needles
Line hooks
needles
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In that moment, when the relaxation of needles when placed on the body yarn needles
found under the needle hooks, it is the peaks peaks pressed needles in a glass needle
to assist in the application of half loop on the hook needles. Press comes in contact
with needles in her point bending (Figure 12.8). Press prolonged movement to the point,
while the top hook needle is fully retracted (pressed) in a glass needle.
When this pin hooks and body swaying. Fold or crea A
1
size se in the pressing pin
f must be determined experimentally. In relation to the movement press is moved in
contact with the needle at the wrong 1-2-3. At the same needle to be lowered to
(Figure 12.8) with conditions, to press out of contact with needles at the moment, when
there is no pin curls. In this way,

a
1
= 4.6 + 1.5 t.

Therefore, we remove the size presses fu period, while the needle relaxes the size
of a
1
.

At the time of pressing half loop is applied to the hook of the needle by moving the
needle and platinum and reached the point 3 on the belly of platinum.
Platinum, moving from position a
1
(Figure 12.9) in position 2, causing half loop on the
hook. In accordance with the scheme in figure12.5 and the formula for the depth of
cooling, given earlier, full relocation will be platinum

B = 1.5 t + q,

where q-distance from the throat of platinum to the highest point of the abdomen.

12.3.2. Diagrams of warp knitting machines
and their connection

The periodicity of technological warp knitting process, carry out a machine characteris
tic mutual knitting cycles: technology, kinematics and work.
Technological cycle warp knitting machine is actually a period of time, during which
we perform knitting one row of loops. Working elements of the periodic output that take
the position. For warp knitting machines technological cycle is equal to the kinematics
and coincides with the duty cycle.

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Figure 12.8. Schematic moving presses Figure 12.9. Transfer scheme platinum

Kinematics cycle of high-speed warp knitting machines coincides with a period of time of
one full rotation of the main shaft machines. In this way, order and duration operation,
the enforcement mechanisms for machines, expressed main shaft rotation angle, and in
his uniform revolution can be expressed somewhat time full speed.
Warp knitting knitwear provides a way of obtaining complete determining the mutual
position of the working bodies of the individual stages of the process of creating a
loop. For discussion of machines, equipped pointed needles, a characteristic stop needl
es in their raising. Such developments caused by the needle the complete determination
of the character of movement of other working organs. Research has shown that such a
character movement of needle-nose needle is present in all known similar machines, so
we can talk about the schedule of machines, where raising the needles achieved in two
stages, separated in time.
Usually, when studying the process of knitting, tools and work discuss mechanisms for
linking cyclograms moving body of work, then we suggest that you compile cyclogram,
where cycles of certain mechanisms show elongated rectangles, divided by the
axis abscissa into parts, according to periods of single constituent cycle and are
measured in degrees of angle of rotation of the main shaft or part time, a speed back.


For a more detailed analysis of the technological process, it is necessary for machine
design, above the proposed rectangular making cyclograms. Here, moving graphics
work bodies are available in sizes and arranged for viewing one below the other. (Figure
12.10) .
Making the cyclogram must be preceded by a theoretical or Experimental investigation
of the mechanism design or basic machine, as a result of the establishment, to
the beginning of the cycle appropriate accept the lowest position of needle-nose as a
character in the process of loop.
To begin the cycle mechanisms other working bodies accept that their position that
they occupy at the moment Starting position bearing needles. Usually, the temporary
movement of the graph we assume movement of any of its points. In the analysis of
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machine following consideration of the following point of working groups, which
appear certain in the process of loop:

For a pointed needle this point the heads of pins, which lie
the axis;
The needle perforated the center hole;
For platinum the lowest point of the edge of the throat;
To press the point on the edge of the press.

Selected technological cycle corresponds to the beginning of the end creating a new
order of the loop, and the zero cyclogram position. Moving the working bodies (dots) in
relation to accept positive zero position when moving upwards, the depth of the machine
and to the right and negative when moving downwards, from the machine and left. This
position is in some literatures always attainable, leading to uneven graphics identical
view of the technological processes.
Construction cyclogram made with the construction graphics moving needle-nose
needle point, where the axis abscissa put the rotary main shaft angle or time,
which corresponds to one cycle, and the size axis ordinate moving. (Figure 12.10, a).






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Figure 12.10. Cyclogram. Chart moves:
a-pointed needles, b-perforated needles, c-press d-platinum

The graph shows that the lower position of the hook needles are moved to the height h
1

(Part A-1). In this way, makes up one of the parts of the technological process-
close. Half loop is retained throat or neck of platinum and the extent of achieving the
level of heads of pins her neck drawing, and to achieve this level of pins protruding neck
platinum again approaches the needle (in the interval of time (O-2), provided to loosen
the tension half loop.
At the height h
1
pins are standing, whose duration is determined by the law of
movement of perforated needles (Figure 12.10, b) the degree of connectivity cyclogram
these two mechanisms. During the height of running the first part of laying
operations. Perforated with needles needless interact in this way you pass the needle
perforated the spaces between the pins and the opposite of them even go to a
neighboring gap by providing laying the yarn on the hook needles.
Terms of laying the yarn shows the necessity of moving away from the needle
perforated needles at the end of surgery at the distance m (part of the 4'-5'). They have
to move to this distance and at the start of laying operation (part of the point 1').
When laying the yarn some pitting needles pass the needle in a certain distance,
which determine their structure. When the width of perforated needles D during their
interaction will match part of moving 1'-2'. and 3'-4'. After addition to pitting the needle
came out of the zone of interaction with needles, there is a turn according to their
longitudinal made using the weave or sample. Drilled pin must stand up to the end of the
part of 2'-3' or be moved further away from straight pins for the size of c, which specifies
the choice of law, moving the needle perforated. Time, which corresponds to part of
2'-3' movement, we use for longitudinal turning in front of the hook needles. This zone is
hatched (Figure 12.10, c). We can see that place the longitudinal turning with respect to
the beginning of the cycle determine the mechanisms linking cyclogram perforated
needles and pins. Longitudinal perforation needles turn behind needle comes in relation
to the observed turning for the two-stroke article 180
o
mechanisms for sampling and
120
o
at three clock work. In Figure 12.10,c shows the mechanism of action there clock.
We see that the graph of the longitudinal turn depends made weave and may be the
same variety, show only a conditional place turns perforated needles, and parts that are
not present. Considered connecting the characteristic points of the diagram show in
figure thin lines with arrows.
Angles of rotation-time 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12


Pointed needle 1 - raising quiescence 2 - raising lowering

passage passage pass back quiescence
Perforated
needle
turn turn quiescence turn quiescence


Press departure quiescence siding pressure departure

Platinum quiescence siding departure

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The second part of the operation laying the yarn is achieved when connecting transfer
needles height h
2
(Figure 12.10, and, of 4-5) and taking the needle perforated flat
needles size m (Figure 12.10,b of 4'-5'). This connection technology is Permissive, when
he is shortening the overall cycle. In this way, the cross taking on the body of needles
below the top hook pin.
Still in the process of parts perforated needles are not included and are suspended
until the end. Pointed needles begin to descend, in order to achieve the introduction of
operations laying the yarn under the hook. In that moment, when the yarn found below
the hook needles, and hooks found on top of 1-2 mm below the upper edge of the plate
(Figure 12.10, a, b) transplants, moving, acting on the hook needle (Figure 12.6, will
point 6'). Contact presses with a hook needle may be extended until then, until the
needle down to the size of a
1
(Figure 12.6, a, e, points 7 and 7').During this time press is
moved to a distance f (Figure 12.10,e), it is necessary for the safe pressed hooks
needles in a glass. All other press cycle time does not perform a technological function,
but must be received according to schedule machines constructive move and release
sites for pitting needles (part of O-6).
To increase contact time with the needle presses the unchanging a
1
size (Figure
12.10, a) it is desirable to provide a knitting zone slowly lowering the needle (point
8). When the needle is lifted up (point 5), platinum retained throat half loop, that is, at
rest (Figure 12.10, b, of the O-5'). In paragraph 5'' platinum starts at the end of
movement and pressing (Count 7'') moves to the full size B, creating an operation
causing half loop on the hook pressed, and still goes back to the exit position. In this
way, we analyzed all the reciprocal links, which appear during knitting one row of yarn
loops, that is the realization of one cycle of the machine. We can see that the needle
hooks on the course of the cycle involved in the knitting process and the character of its
movement is complex, but other working bodies, then move to accept the pins in the
design cyclogram.
When designing cyclogram the machine and the choice of laws of motion of the
leading element is necessary to rationally divide the cycle of creating loops between the
components. We should be aware of the fact, that the mass of the movable element
knitting mechanism to be proportional to one order, then to achieve equal conditions of
dynamic mechanisms is necessary to strive toward singularity largest acceleration of
their elements. Mechanisms for creating loops Elementary knitting machines are typical
minor technological burden, then the inertia load appear as defined.
To determine the best rational division cycle into its component parts, we consider
again the graph of movement of needles and needle-nose perforated needles.
Construct equilateral triangle height, equal to h
2
+ D + c, and a base, equal periodic
cycle (Figure 12.11, tags taken from Figure 14.12). A base has been constructed in the
ratio plot developments knitting needles and perforation. Connect the dots 1 and 1', 4
and 4' (Figure 12.10, a, b). This design allows the best way to break the cycle period
between the components of the design on the abscissa axis characteristic points, as
described above.
In this approach the construction cyclogram obviously, to accelerate the mechanisms
of the elements of the loop is nearly equal.
Time of entry into operation of perforated needles corresponding corner of
1
(Figure
12.11), a passage perforated needles in one side-
2
, opposite-
3
, first raising the
needle-
4
, high pin-
5
, raising another needle-
6
, slow movement of needles at the time
of pressing -
7
and so on. This construction has to be executed in parallel construction
cyclogram. When designing cyclogram we get as possible to better link the individual
parts working cycle mechanisms, which is one of the ways of increasing productivity.
If cyclogram design of the machine, in which a number of perforated needles
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(Lines of turning leg rail) at the same fineness machines, changing only the width of
perforated needles D' (Figure 12.8, marked in figure 12.10). Other computational output
variables remain unchanged.
Implement the above-described frame structure cyclograms link diagrams for certain
component parts of the cycle (Figure 12.12).Compare images 12.11 and 12.12 shows
that the constituents cycle loop creation suffer significant changes. For evidence of thin
hatched lines in figure 12.12 decking connection diagram shown in figure 12.11, where
the aggregate width of perforated needles D. We can see that the approximate
equations of acceleration mechanisms of the elements of the loop when this is fulfilled.
Cyclograms accept for the synthesis of implementation mechanisms of movement of
working groups, analytical and geometrical method that has worked out quite
accurately. Ciklograms are also necessary for regulating and adjusting machines and
assess the degree of their perfection.
Actual cyclogram to some extent will vary from the theoretical to refine the drafting of
a law moving the pivotal element, errors in the preparation and mounting of parts, and
also influence gap and dynamic factors.




Figure 12.11. An integral part of the cycle Figure 12.12. An integral part of the cycle
(first variant) (second variant)

13. Participation in the design of a loop knitting system
warp knitting machines

The task of the elaboration of methods of calculation and design of warp knitting
machines is caused by the complexity of the research work of all mechanisms of the
machine.
While designing the system knitting warp knitting machines, it is necessary to take into
account the impact of technological factors. On warp knitting machines create loops from
different warps yarns simultaneously on all machines needles, that is, we place the
frontal process of creating a loop. The type of loop (closed or open) and the character of
the association depends on the structure of warp knitted twists the created. The length
and type of interface depends on taking the loop yarn warps on pins and needles.
In this way, connection type loop, obtained from several warp, connect the loops differ
in length of coupling parts, creating many different types of warp knitted interlacement.
While designing the mechanisms and their preparation is necessary to take into
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account the possibility of production on a given machine to weave a different number of
samples with maximum productivity.
Conditions create different types of loops are equal. Analysis of the process of
creating a loop shows that moment laying the yarn on the needle takes a significant
amount of time the full cycle of the loop creation and design of the temporary relocation
and legality of spending warps yarn for one cycle.
When considering the geometric model of laying (Figure 11.2, to 11.3, b) it was found
that the parameter is determined by the formula given earlier, and reflects the character
processed interlacement or pattern. At one and the same perforated needles turn "under
the needle can be created closed or open loop., Encompassing the adjacent needles
yarn needle angle can be = / 2, = , = 3/2.
The outcome of these conditions, all the different connecting loops is possible to
consolidate into five groups. Composition of the group with a graphic record
interlacement and characteristics of each group is shown in the table below, where the
loop considered an asterisk, and variations in the weave graphical representation shown
hatched line:

Terms of loop creation of the first group: Yarn needle comprehensive angle = / 2,
the coefficient k = +0.5, which corresponds to the value e = t (n +0,5).
Terms of loop creation groups: comprehensive angle = / 2, the coefficient
k = - 0.5, which corresponds to the value e = t (n - 0.5).
Terms of loop creation of the third group: = , k = - 0.5, e = t (n - 0.5).
Terms of loop creation fourth group: = 3/2 k = - 0.5, e = t (n - 0.5).
Terms of loop creation fifth group: = 3/2 k = - 1.5, e = t (n - 1,5).

The values of X for cases to create loops, which are included in the table groups, can
be calculated, for example, the formula that we previously provided. At higher values of
X is to achieve safe operations of laying the yarn on the needles.
Calculations show that the value of X to create different types of loops are significantly
different from each other. One of the best loop creation of conditions they are entering
the second group. We also accept conditional, loop groups for X = 1, then the loops, the
first group of X = 0.88; the loops, the fourth group X = 0.35, for the fifth loop group
X = 0.50. Accounts carried out at m = 8 mm, n = 3 and equal other conditions.
Terms of loop creation of the third group (chain) separately and for their values of
n = 3 can not be, then the value of X can be obtained at other initial conditions in the
table are not shown.
Based on the above we can derive the following statements:
Calculations of high-speed warp knitting systems knitting machines it is necessary to
perform the requirements of creating loops fourth group, which is wrapping angle of the
yarn needle = 3/2, and e = t (n - 0.5). The value of X to create the loop of the fourth
group itself is small, then the calculations presented in terms of providing capacity to
work designing any weave.

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The legality of consumption exceeds the cycle of loop creation is different for different
groups of interlacement, this should be taken into account when designing systems warp
knitting machines.
Example budget transfer authority knitting warp knitting machines fineness of 28
shows, that they are moving close to the actual body of work machines, which are used
in the knitwear industry. Comparison of data shows that raising the needle to the height
h1 of the existing machine comes to position half loop below the top of the needle hooks,
and not lower bowl pins. Also carrying this position, the computational formulas for
raising the needle gives a smaller size for size, and a (Figure 11.3).
Permanent contact with the needle presses the calculations is the maximum possible.
This example shows that the calculation formulas properly reflect the legality of that
act in the process of creating a loop at the High-speed warp knitting machines.
Determining the size of moving bodies of knitting machines, there is the first stage of
designing knitting system. The next step in the budget must cover issues of design
diagrams linking the temporary movement of the machine and choosing the best of their
migration laws. Final phase appears synthesis of basic mechanisms for moving bodies
knitting. Derived empirical formula calculation will include a structural body size of
knitting, then with their help solve questions about the possibilities of change in the
shape and size of working groups.


Group Composition of the group Graphic representation of weave Parameter e Xy

1. first a-closed loop on the turn,
after open
b-open-loop without
losing focus after open


2. other a-closed loop without
losing focus after open
b-open-loop without losing
focus after closed



3. third a-chain from the closed-
loop
b-chain from the open-loop


4. fourth a- open-loop at the
turn, after open
b-closed loop without
losing focus after open


5. fifth a- open loop turn on after
shut down
b-closed loop on the turn,
after closed
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13.1.Security Warning Yarn

The most general case of adding a switch is to add cross from point H (Figure 13.1).
which does not match the coordinates of the plane, the distribution of needles created a
circular bearing surface of needles of arbitrary radius R.
Straight XOZ performed tangentially to the creation of the reservoir area of needles,
where of needles, where the needle hooks, covering yarn, down to the repulsive their
plane. Then the plane coincides with a repulsive YOX plane and YOZ plane being radial
plane passing through the plane oft he needle.
Design yarn OP repulsive and tangential plane, we get the angles between its project
ions and the axis OX, which is called as:
n
-tilt angle exceeds the repulsion plane of the
knitwear are arranged in loops (short-tilt angle;
a
-approximate angle of the yarn by tang
ential plane, which shows us, how far is distributed yarn needle (short-angle approximati
on or convergence).
Pitch angle and cross approximation appear as parameters to add yarn and character
ized by the conditions of interaction with the hook Yarn needles. Obviously, to meet
the basic rules of getting clad loop is necessary to create a machine to add different
angles and plated warp yarns.


Figure 13.1. Security Warning yarn on a
circular knitting machine

13.2. Add yarn to right-
left circular knitting machines
On machines, where the pins arranged in a plane, it
is practically impossible to pass without the practice
pation of cross platinum. In the process of yarn lay-
Ing the yarn straight needles bring the weft platinum
or momentum perforated needles (warp knitting
machines). In the first case the approximate angle to
the plan of yarn needles do not have a definite sign
ificance for the creation plated loops, then since it
would be far would not be moved or the other yarn needles all the time it will be as subs
umed by its platinum.
Consequently, the machines, where the needles are distributed in the plane, a
necessary position for knitting yarn plated loops provide grades inclination angle and
clad of added warp yarn, and thereby always have to follow the terms:


n.o
>
n.p.

n.p.


We will look at how this can be achieved.






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13.3. Setting guide yarn with different sizes of overtaking

As an example we can use setup guide for Cotton yarn machine.
Overpass known as the distance from the yarn guide to the first pebbledash platinum.
Denoted by the letter P. In figure 13.2 shows the scheme of setting guide for Cotton yarn
machine. In-basic guide, V
p
-clad guide. We can see that overtaking the basic yarn after
less than overtaking clad guide P
p
:

B
y
<P
p
,
Accordingly,

n.o
>
n.p
.

If the tilt angle of the basic yarn
n.o
is greater than the tilting angle
n.p
plated yarn,
it will be the first to pass close by hook needles, the other on (look AA).
To safely cross over taking the primary plated pitch angle is in creased at the
expense of setting
n.o
warp guide cross just over the edge dividing platinum.
The main yarn guide is placed closer to the edge of the upper recesses platinum
head, clad and core yarns have different approximations.
At the Cotton machine size of these angles is of little significance, since in the process
of taking yarn nose surgery weft platinum and pressure to the body plate.

13.3.1. Lining guide switch to a different level relatively
constant in the minds of needles size of the overpass

For example we can add a switch to serve hosiery machine. Yarn guides are set
to different overpass.
In figure 13.2, and shows the path of movement of the upper point of suspension
hooks, the latch axis b, c over the language repulsion is relatively flat in facilitating the
vertical plane.
Pins are labeled 0, 1, 2, 3 and 4.
In figure 13.2, b given the path of movement back pins, neck and nose hooks in the
projection on the horizontal plane. The path to the vertical and horizontal plane is
connected to the line pins 0, heads that are on the level of guard plane (Moment of
connection and the start of cooling).
Coming down the yarn with the yarn guide aimed ring means: the base yarn of counts
5 and 5'; for clad P
p
crossing points 6 and 6'. t
i
- needle move.

The yarn guides P
0
and P
p
are located on different approximation ,

O
p
>O
o
,

Consequently

n.o
>
n.p
.

Then clad with yarn out of the loop side of the face, and fixed on the reverse. Item 5


and 6' are arranged by volume rotating band guide, and it is unwise, to put the yarn
guides different approximation, the approximate angle of primary and plated yarns are
almost equal. This is explained by the fact that Both yarns have different points of
contact with the leading cylinder.
For the primary point of contact cross point appears of cooling (point K and K
1
). The
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point is, what the By establishing the size and
n.o
basic yarn is not take the needle
body, and affect the barb in the past its relaxation process. This is well visible on the
line core cross section (Figure 13.2, c).
Point 0
o
, 1
o
, 2
o
, 3
o
-section showing the position of primary yarns in space relatively pins
0, 1, 2, 3 (Figure 13.2, a).
Line cross-section appears conditional display also clearly shows the image bonding
yarn needles and hooks the process of abstraction. Basic yarn.























Figure 13.3. The path of movement of certain points of needles, yarn guide position and
move the plated knitting loops on a circular knitting machine

touches the needle I
0
at point 0
0
, at the moment, when the head pin down to the level of
guard lines.
P
p
yarn clad cylinder touches the drain in item 7' and laid on the body above the
needle axis of language. Further yarn all the time pressure leading to the inner needle
head in the process of lowering the last slide along it as the direction (point 3p, 2p, 1p,
0
p
, as shown in figure 13.2, c).According to the moment of connecting the main yarn will
be distributed closer to the needle hook, and still clad. Trifle higher level of deployment
of the ring for the clad guide yarn spinning to explain the necessary arrangement of yarn
above the axis of language at the time of pressing, which would rule out the possibility of
pinched. When the latch needles 3 closes, the yarn is above the axis of language.

Similarly, in the process of entering clad yarn is under the controller pins, core yarn is
moving freely in the zone of hooks. Then the difference between the angles of
approximation is of little importance and the main effect size values may need several
tilting angles of primary and plated yarn, to maintain the basic conditions, under which
the

n.o
>
n.p.


Clad yarn
Core yarn
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In figure 13.3, and shows the path of movement more points of suspension hooks and
relatively repulsion line in developing the vertical plane, the position of the yarn guide,
basic and relatively plated yarn needles 1-8.
In figure 13.3, b given path movement neck and nose hooks needle projection on the
horizontal plane and the position of the yarn guides (Breakdown by AA). In figure 13.3, c
shows the line of intersection of basic and relatively plated yarn needle 1, that is, pins,
whose heads down to the level of repulsive line (moment of connection, the start of
cooling).
We see that in the process of entering basic and clad yarn moving freely in the zone of
hooks, thereby overtaking yarn clad base, since the


n.p
>
n.o.


To the basic yarn found closer to the needle hook, and still clad (basic rule of
obtaining plated loops) on the machine to produce different angles approximation:


a.o
>
a.p.


With this goal in the lower right part of the yarn guide is made upon your point
of descending the basic yarn 9' staggered away from the pin but dot clad stairways
exceed 10' (Figure 13.3, b).
Unlike all previous cases considered adding a switch to some machines clad yarn is
added at a higher pitch angle, but basic. At first look this contradicts the basic rule of
obtaining plated loop. Also thanks to the se terms clad yarn is moving with some
overtaking in relation to the basic yarn, and, coming closer to the body pins, comes from
the inside leading hook sat point 1' (Figure 13.3, c), and then slides on it as the
orientation and comes in Count 1 In this way, the current operation in the last entry, the
point of abstraction hook yarn needle, conditions, analogous to those which have their
place on hosiery machines.

13.4. Add yarn to right-right circular knitting machines

All right-the right machine can be divided into two main groups by mutual arrangement
needle bearings relative to each other:

Needle bearings are arranged on one level, that is, the angle between them equal
to 180 ;
Needle bearings are arranged at an angle to one another, that is, the
angle which is equal to 180
o
.
By interacting with the yarn needle, the second group can be divided
into two subgroups:
One tray of needles is active, more passive;
Needle bearings both active.

We will look, how to perform basic rules of getting clad loops in both cases.

13.4.1. Needle bearings are arranged
on one level ( = 180 )

In figure 13.4, and given the pattern of taking the basic Po and Pp plated yarn needle
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machine, when the two bearing pins arranged in a plane (two-cylinder machines). Pins 1,
3, knit the top and pins 2, 4 in the bottom cylinder. Yarn guide 5 has two openings: one
for elementary-7 and one for the clad cross-6 (Figure 13.4, b), which are arranged on a
horizontal axis. With the ceramic part of the desktop software cross is carved, as a result
of creating outlets I. Then fixed and clad yarn is added by the needle machines with
different angles approximation (
a.p
<
a.o
).Accordingly, the basic yarn is taken closer to
the hook needles of both beds of needles, and plated on. The distance between holes 6
and 7 is equal to 1 mm. This size is small by comparison with the size of overtaking, so
we can count, that the pitch angle of the primary cross plated same.
In figure 13.4, c see the schedule go into loops series, created by the needles 2, 3,
4 If we introduce a yarn of two colors: main-white, black-clad, to the strings, which are
formed on the reverse will be white and black face paint.
In this way we can get different patterns, alteration of the knitting loop face and rever-
se.

13.4.2. Needle bearings arranged at an angle <180

We will consider two variants:
One tray of needles active, more passive. For example can we use interlock
machines.
Active bearing needle bearing cylindrical appears, as it first affects the hook switch,
down to the interlacing, and its laying on needles bearing needle-shaped plate. Needles
of this needle bearings are passive, since they do not get pass directly from the yarn
guide.
In figure 13.5 shows some moments of the process of knitting on the machine
interlock. The mutual position of the needle cylinder and plate grip the hook Yarn needle
cylinder is shown in figure 13.5, and, by laying the yarn on the Plate of cooling pins, in
figure 13.5, b.
As we see, the execution of the basic rules of plating is necessary to add primary and
clad switch from different angles relative approximation needle cylinder. In this
composite yarn needle bearings nana will be placed so that the basic yarn is arranged
closer to the needle hook, and still clad.
Here tilt angle does not play a decisive importance, since both lead yarn needle
cylinder in the plane of needle bearings and then paneled weft. Plated pins are arranged
radial in a horizontal plane.
As we see in figure 13.5, c clad yarns are taking on the language composite needle
bearings. At first pressing (Figure 13.5, d) latch needle plate bearing cross divides:
basic, which belongs to the open needle hooks, and clad, which remains behind the
language. When incorporating the yarn under the hook of the needle cylinder (Figure
13.5, e) is shown clad yarn passed beyond the needle hook, then released it on his face
twists. In figure 13.5,f is shown in the overthrow of the loop with the needles of both
beds.






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Figure 13.4. Scheme of laying the
yarn and their arrangement in rows in
the loop knitting on a twin
cylinder machines


In this way the basic yarn is interwoven in
all needles and Clad only in the needle
cylinder, as a future laid Belleville tabs
behind it throwing off the needles with
needles without interlaced in the weave is
distributed in the form of binding parts
(flotation).
Mesh of this type is subjected to heat
setting aside made needle cylinder. Plush
is created in order to account loop, and
binding of parts, designed clad yarn.

All pins are active. In this case, each gets
cross directly from the yarn guide.
Example may serve us straight knitting
machines.
In figure 13.6, and shows the path of
movement of the upper point of the head
pin, axis, and the end of the language relatively repulsion line in the development of the
vertical plane when moving the needle windows needles.
Arrow shows the direction of the head machines. The depth of cooling is indicated by h
k
,
basic yarns with By, clad with Pp.
In figure 13.6,b shows the mutual position of the needle, when the end of the
language at the level of guard plane (Figure 13.6, and this position is indicated by line 1-
1). Yarn is added needle machines with different pitch angles.
Size of tilt angle are chosen so that at the moment closing the lingual both yarns are
in their zone interventions hook needles. Size of determines the hooks d.
The position of the needle with a closed tab is shown dashed line (Figure 13.6, a-lines 2-
2). In order to ensure equal opportunity laying the yarn on all pins I and II is necessary
the spread of both yarns in the symmetry plane 0-0.
Different corners provide added yarns structure, guide the yarn (Figure 13.6,c). The
yarn guide set slot 3 for clad yarn and craft with a slotted 4 the primary switch. At the
change of direction guide basic yarn passes the slot and takes the necessary position
relatively plated.

13.5. Forms and layout variations in the
field of knitting repeat

Knitting patterns to create by connecting to a given order of the various elements of the
structure of knitted knit wears, for example up to date openings in the weave knitting
updates, pineapple, fillet, basic parts of loops of different colors in knitting clad
interlacement, plus (plush curls or hair) and the common binding components in knitting
teddy interlacement and so on.
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Samples arranged in flat twists, created rows and rows of loops are called the field of
knitting. Otherwise speaking, the field of knitting is only for themselves in the same area
a lot of knitted squares, the size of each row equal to the amount of loop B and loop step
A. Then the samples cloth are transmitted to the special paper, which is the size in
millimeters squared equal to A and B. To simplify the sample we can meet the millimeter
paper, which has the same size squares. Knitting pattern, shown in the background
paper, called his patron.
Samples of any kind of labeling repeat. Under repeat the sample mean as woven
geometric figures, whose repetition we can cover all fields of knitting without spaces and
insertion.
In figure 13.7, a - d shows a few variants deployed report in the field of knitting. If you
move the beginning of the Cartesian system of coordinates in the lower left corner of the
report, the position and feedback from some size will be characterized by
vectors ( ) ( ). y , b , ,
1 1
_
2 2
_
x y x a of highest practical application received four page report ,
whose contours are consistent with the directions of rows and rows loop (Figure 13.7, b,
d, f).

These simple exchanges can be characterized by the height of repeat with coordinates
(0, y
1
), (x
2
, 0) fill in the field of knitting directions, which coincide with the directions of
rows and rows loop, they have the greatest practical use. Rectangular exchanges, where
the vectors have coordinates (0, y
1
), (x
2
, y
2
),is characterized by the rise of y
2

(Figure13.7, d), and the coordinates (x
1
, y
1
), (x
2
, 0) moving x
1
(Figure 13.7, b ).
In shape and size of the feedback from the sample determine the type and parame
ters of the mechanism of electing the sampling necessary for the production
process. Opposite assignment occurs by setting certain parameters of mechanisms of
choice of form and size of feedback from the sample.
The role of the mechanism for sampling needles meet, platinum,

Peg bar, or pins, pitting needles (leg rails), yarn guides and other working bodies of the
machine. In accordance, how to perform a process of knitting, reciprocal mechanisms
operate with a mechanism for sampling (MU) knitting machines at the same time or sequ
enced. By this mark of the mechanism is divided into two types:
sequenced elections and simultaneous elections.
Sequenced and simultaneous selection of stroke can be made independent and sele
ctive way. Mechanisms programming choices, achieve selectors choice of stroke, stroke
, divided into mechanisms selectors group and individual selectors. Mechanisms in
dependent election run only individual choice of stroke.

13.6. Calculation of the samples at
selectors-group electing the

In the capacity of working groups in their group selection can be used needles,
platinum, stift, hooks, Decker pitting needle-leg rail igloo leaders , yarn guides and so
on. Beam feedback from the sample in this case is determined by the character of distrib
ution (selection) MU one or several positions. Feedback from the sample height is
determined by the number of knitting systems in sequenced mode of election.
The mechanisms of selector-choice group are simple in construction, they have
no control mechanism. Then MU to a particular system at knitting sequenced election
and for all rows feedback from the sample when tracking method of choice.
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Thanks diversity MU in a given width and height gradual feedback from the sample, obt
ained from a machine with a sequenced process of knitting, can be significantly in
creased. In this case the amount of feedback from the general pattern of rectangular
shape is
R
h.o
= N
s
/ N
s.r.r
,

where the N
s
-knitting of the system;
N
s.rr
-number system, necessary to create a single line feedback from the
sample.



Figure 13.5. Moments of the process of creating cloth clad
the machine interlock


o-Basic Yarn
p-Clad yarn
Needle Plate
Needle cylindrical
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Figure 13.6. The path of movement of certain points of needles, patterns of
mutual position of the needle and
construction of the knitting yarn guide clad weave
the flat knitting machine

In figure 13.8, a, b shows the distribution of needles different altitudes in feet and pusher
circular knitting machine with multiple systems, as well as graphic interlacement to obta-
in samples in cartridges, which is shown in figure13.8, c. Needles and pushers are mov-
ed to lock the lifters two channels lock in the top slot machine needles.
Number of needle positions and pusher n = 3, therefore, the number of different series of
loops in the width of the feedback from the sample must be divisible by 3; R
.o
= 3. The
width of the sample selected by the feedback from more than R
.o
due repetitions equal
related sequences (including series of loops on the obverse and reverse), R
s
=24
In N
s.r.r
= 1, N
s
= 28 number of rows of loops, a different pattern and amount of feedback
from, is equal to 3, but the general feedback from the sample height was chosen over to
repeat the lines connecting the loop with equal sample without the sample, R
h
= 28.

Schedule pickup lock in the top slot for needles and thrusters in each of 28 knitting
system is shown in figure 13.8, d.
When tracking the way of knitting and the absence of a mechanism control sample al-
Direction the machine locks

Knitwear
Fork
Repulsi-
ve
plane
Basic Yarn
Clad yarn
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so sets the schedule of stroke. Width feedback from a sample depends on the schedule,
but its height remains constant and equal to the amount of order loop.

13.7. Selectors - individual selection of working groups

Mechanism for feedback from the group width of the sample, as well as mechanisms to
selectors-group method of choice, determine layouts (selection) MU, constant for a given
sample. Within each are a select group MU in each loop we choose individually. The
mechanism of selection of this group include mechanisms for turning perforated needles
warp knitting machines, Drum sampling, the mechanism for the programming choices cir
cular knitting machines with multiple systems, update the device with Cotton and other
machines. On circular knitting machines with multiple systems as program commands
apply primarily selectors drums (rollers), which are filled pin or pins, putting holes in the
drum, or selectors tiles, which we break, before being put into the drum with the
corresponding sample. The mechanism of choice to provide such a drum to obtain a
sample with a rectangular shape with no feedback from movement and the rise (Figure
13.7, b) Selector drum works through selectors (selecting) the tiles were sampled at the
feet of coach (pushers) needles. Number of sampled foot selector determines the width
of feedback from the sample.

























Figure 13.7. Variant forms of schedule and feedback from the field of knitting

The selectors have sampled rates, each of which interacts in turn selectors
plate. Each of the sampled rate corresponds to its level layout; the schedule of the foot
depends on feedback from the sample width. Example layouts foot needle selector for
the mechanisms of choice of the drum are shown in figure 13.9. In one variant of foot
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selectors are allocated one after another on the diagonal. In this case, a fragment of a
sample, filled pin in a vertical line drum, in the knitting spread the horizontal line
feedback from the sample. The width of that row or the width of feedback from the
sample equals the number of feet in a repeating group of their schedule.; R
s
= N
u.s
where
N
u.s
- the number of sampled rate selector, equal to the number selectors tile and the
corresponding number of openings in a vertical line drum.
In the second version (scheduled for foot, shown in the center, called the V-shape)
Width feedback from R
s
= 2 (R-1), while operating in the higher rates of the two selectors
at the higher and lower level of R
s
= 2R.
At V-shaped arrangement of the rate selector gives symmetrical patterns relatively
vertical axis.
Rates selectors may have other variants of the layout (Figure 13.9, right); feedback
from the sample beam in such schedule shall be increased, as have in their linking rate
selector connected to a same level. When using the schedule of equal position selector
foot width of the sample feedback from the RS can be equal to the number loops series,
created by the needle cylinder knitting machines. It should be noted that the schedule
selector foot connected with the character receiving the sample. Applying the rate of one
and the same position, we can get one and the same connection to the repeat of the
sample.
Selectors using needles can be complex (derived) is also the motive of the sample. In
this case, each of the selectors is depending on the sample sampled several feet. The
last of the variants of the layout foot coach has not figured this, what with changing the
sample need to change the arrangement of the selectors themselves.
Height feedback from a sample of R
h
-selector mechanism of individual choice is
determined by the formula

R
h.u
= N
p.b
Ns / N
s.r.r
,

where N
p.b
-code division selector ribbons in size;
N
s
-number system to the knitting machine;
N
s.rr
-number systems necessary for knitting one row of feedback from the sample.

Number of divisions selector drum the scale of the amount of feedback from the
sample, obtained in a single knitting system, and the product R
s
R
h
= N
o
-number of holes
in selector drum.
Sampling is a possible mechanism of choice with more drums, drum if you can stand
up to the end during a given number of revolutions bearing needle cylinder rotate at a
different number of divisions in both the single and in the opposite direction. In these
cases the number of divisions at a constant height R
h
feedback from the sample may be
increased, can be also obtained samples with repeated loop rows and the horizontal axis
of symmetry, without a change of completing selector drum.

13. 8. Calculation of the samples at individual independent
choice the temporary

The greatest use of the mechanisms of this group receive annular mechanism of
choice. Platinum annular mechanism which has a number of divisions Np, interacts with
needles, which of the needle cylinder knitting machines and the same, thereby number
of sets of knitting system is N
k.s.
Under a set of knitting system we mean the number,
required for obtaining feedback from one row of the sample.
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N
k.s
= N
s
/ N
s.r.r
,

where the N
s
-number system for knitting knitting machine;
N
s.r.r
- the number of systems needed for knitting
one order of feedback from the sample.

Since the ratio of N
o
, and, depends N
k.s
shape, size and mutual arrangement of the
feedback from the knitting pattern. Denote by R the rest of the division and the N
o
, it is

R = I - [I / N
o
] N
o
,

where [I /No] =x is the integer number not exceeding x

The results of interaction with the needle cylinder rings adequately described by the
following mathematical model. By splitting the plane V, which was introduced Cartesian
system coordinates, the flat squares, conditional loops showing (Figure 13.3).

x = j
1
(j = 0, 1, 2 ....), y = i
1
(i = 0, 1, 2 ....).

Coordinates (j, i) to any of the lower left corner of the obtained squares we will call the
coordinates of these squares. Squares with coordinates (j, i) set in the corresponding
pair of [M (i), N (i, j)],

where
M (i) = i - [i / N
k.s
] N
k.s
;
N (i, j) = j + [i / N
k.s
] R - [j + [i / N
k.s
] R / N
o
] N
o
.

Meaning of the introduced code is as follows: M (i) - number of sets of systems, which
knit the i-ti row loops N (i, j) - number of positions coil or panel M (i)-the sets, which is
involved in the creation of loops, which lie in the right-emtom loop I, j-emtom series of
of loops.
Arrangement of pairs of numbers [M (i), N(i, j )] we will call labeling of these
squares. Matching tags [M (i), N(i, j )], [M (i), N(i, j )] equivalent to the equations m
M(i) = M(i), N(i, j) = N(i, j).

Let us call the theory of mathematical object with a field of knitting parameters, N
o
, R,
N
k.s
denote them by V( N
o
, R, N
k.s
).

13.8.1. Structure feedback from samples in a given field of knitting

In the knitting V ((No, R, N
k.s
) any multiplier of a binding N
o
N
k.s
squares, which have diffe
rent tags, create rapport, it is a binding geometric figure, which can be repeated to
cover all fields of knitting without a trace of light and . Repeat-this is the beginning
of figures moving parallel to the size ka (where k-any integer, a-length vector
,
_
a has a direction, (Figure 13.7), and then in another direction for the size of eb
(where any e-integer, b-length vectors ). ,
_
b
We will consider two of the three figures given in figure 13.10 .
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Figure 13.8. Schematic setup of needles and the pusher, graphic interlacement
, patron of the sample and the pickup position lock for a sample on the machine

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Figure 13.9. Variants of foot layout selector

The first f i g u r a (Figure 13.10, a). On the figure we can distinguish four points A, B, C,
D, which sequenced connectivity given parallelogram. Parts of the contours of this
figure, sealed the points C, D and B, C, can be obtained according to the parts, closed
the points.



Figure 13.10. Possible forms of repeats and their skeleton with whole numbers
coordinate vertices

A, B and A, D. Half of the contours of this figure, connecting points A, B, C, can be
arbitrary in the absence of intersection between parts of the contours.
Surface of this figure is equal to the area of a parallelogram, and vectors , ,
_ _
b a you use
to cover the field of knitting, concurrently with the vectors . ,
___ ___
AD AB
The second f i g u r a (Figure 13.10, b). The figure is possible to single out the six
points A, B, C, D, E, F, whose real sequenced connecting parts gives the central-
symmetrical not cutting off hexagon. Parts of the contour, closed the points E, D, F, E, A,
F, can be obtained from parts, closed between points A, B, B, C, C, D. Half of the
contours of this figure related items A, B, C, D, can be arbitrary in the absence of
intersection between parts of the contours.
Area figure is equal to the other surface of the hexagon ABCDEF or surface ACGE
parallelogram, constructed on the vectors ,
____ ____
AE and AC and the vectors
_ _
, b a achieve
closure of the surface fields of knitting, concurrently with the vectors .
____ ____
AE and AC
Parallelogram or hexagon on we shall call the skeleton or basic part of the feedback
from the sample. In the knitting of parallelograms and hexagons have the appropriate
coordinates, call them in this case z-parallelograms and zc-hexagon. From the shown
below, the report of the field of knitting V (N
o
, R, N
k.s
), the disk type or plate-like
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mechanism of elections, can have a multitude of shapes (Figure 13.7, 13.9).
In figure 13.11 shows the number of symmetric (a, c, d) and the so-called almost
rectangular (b) forms of report, which represents the greatest interest in practice. To
describe a variety of forms of feedback from quite accurately determine the possible
forms of their basic parts, as the basic part of any repeat with the basic work in the field
of knitting is possible to go through any permitted changes in the conditions of his work,
feedback from the contour can only be routine- line courses, in which each part of the
right parallel to the axis X and Y. Recklessly to see that the base of the feedback from
other species (Figure 13.10, b) can be considered as taken from the parallelogram
ACGE permitted by expressing his hand. Then the base of the field of knitting
parallelogram appears to be essential.



Figure 13.11. Symmetrical (a, c, d) and almost rectangular (b) form
feedback from the sample

Conditions, with which characterize samples in a field repeat knitting and determine the
necessary, quite accurate terms, character of any base field of knitting at given
parameters the mechanism of composite N
k.s
, N
o
, R, and, contrary given the
opportunity on any feedback from the main base part of the calculation of parameters of
laminated mechanism, N
k.s
, N
o
, R. z-parallelogram (Figure 13.10, c) with the peaks
and a number of points (0,0), (x
1
, y
1
) (x
1
+ x
2
y
1
+ y
2
), there is a basic part of the field of
knitting V(N
o
, R, N
k.s
) only when the
y
1
= N
k.s
; y
2
= N
k.s
;

x
1
= N
k.s
R; x
2
= N
o
R,

where , , , -fixed integers conditionally satisfied.

- = 1

The previous expressions are only complete solution and we call it Diophantine (after
the Greek mathematician Diophantine), we can bring the type, which allows easy
calculation of parameters of the mechanism plate to the meaning of coordinates
feedback from
( x
1
, y
1
), (x
2
, y
2
).
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Type of expression will be

N
k.s
= D (y
1
, y
2
),

where D -is the largest general-splitter positive numbers y
1
and y
2
.

N
o
= x
1
y
2
x
2
y
2
/ D(y
1,
y
2
).

R values uniquely determine by the following comparison systems:


( )
( )
( ). mod
,
); (mod
,
2
2 1
1
1
2 1
1
o
o
N x R
y y D
y
N x R
y y D
y



This system can be solved by selecting, as the labeling of a possible value feedback
from basic part of any given shape and determine the mechanism of composite
parameters of the production process. Determine all possible initial rectangles report,
which receive the greatest use (Figure 13.7,d, b, e). This task is reduced to the
determination of all such positive whole numbers, in which a parallelogram,
characterized by vectors (0, y
1
) (x
2
, y
2
) (Figure 13.7, d), the base occurs mostly knitting
field V (N
o
, R, N
k.s
). At given values of the vector first three conditions will receive a
form

y
1
= N
k.s
; y
2
= N
k.s
;

N
k.s
= R; x
2
= N
o
R,
= 1.

From these equations we obtain Diophantine system

= ;
) , ( R N D
N
o
o
= ;
) , ( R N D
R
o


y
1
=
( )
( ), , x ;
,
2
.
R N D
R N D
N N
o
o
s k o
=

where D is the overall best-divider between the number of platinum in the plate N
o
and
the rest of R.

Substituting the values of and in the Diophantine system of equations we get


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or
( ) ( )
( ) ( )
.
,
mod 1
,
,
,
1
,
|
|

\
|

=
R N D
N
R N D
R
R N D
N
R N D
R
o
o
o
o
o
o




For comparison the last equation we determine the limits

1 1
) , (

R N D
N
o
o


Unambiguously.
Then
y
2 =
N
k.s
,


y
2
is equal to one of the values N
k.s
, 2N
k.s
,3N
k.s

( )
. 1
,
.s k
o
o
N
R N D
N
|
|

\
|


In this way, the main base of the rectangular repeats and feedback from the very
appearance of rectangular and determination in the field of knitting unambiguously the
source of the above given expression.
In rectangular repeat (Figure 13.11, b), characterized by vectors (0, y
1
), (x
2
, 0) and
the terms that receive a form: y
1
= No; = 0; x
2
= N
o
; N
o
= R; =1.
Accordingly,

y
1
= N
k.s
; x
2
= N
o
; R = 0.


This means that the plate height rectangular selection mechanism without feedback
from the rise (climb) is equal to the number of sets N
k.s
knitting machine systems, and
the width-the number of divisions in the board N
o
. Such exchanges have a practical
application only in circular knitting machines with a number of knitting systems.
Analogous results obtained for rectangular repeat with relocation (moving)
P( x
1
, y
1
)(x
2
, 0) figures13.7, e). In this case, the conditions given below equation: = 0;
= = 1,
where the

x
2
= N
o
; x
1
= N
o
R; y
1
= N
k
.
s
.

Denote the results of a general theory of plate selection mechanisms, related to
certain rectangular report. It follows from figure 13.3, d, x
2
= R

, y
1
= R
h
, y
2
= X, where
R

, R
h
, X- adequate width, height repeats and the rise in acceptance of the terminology
rectangular report. As
R

= D (N
o
, R); R
h
= ,
) , (
.
.
s k

o
o
s k o
N
R
N
N R D
N N
=
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where is
R

R
h
= N
o
N
k.s
,


That is, the number of loops in the repeat of the sample is equal to the product of the
division in the plate (coil) on the number of sets of knitting system

N
o
= R
h.k
R

,

where R
h.k
- height feedback from one kit. Taking into account the available tags, we can
get

;
N
- 1
o

R R
R
=

|
|

\
|

o
R
N
mod 1

R
R
,

As N
o
/R

= R
h.k
, hence
.
/
1
/
1
2
2
x R
x
N
R R
R
o

|
|

\
|
=



- here is something else, such as rise, is determined for a set of knitting systems
under conditions where appears as any whole number, which is not equal to 0, that is,
= (y +1) for y = 0, 1, 2,, h -1. For conditions that determine numerically any form of
knitting in the field of V (No, R, Nk.s), generally accepted values of width, height repeats
and did not rise sufficiently accurate and can not feature any kind of report. We will
consider several examples,

Example 1. The parameters of the mechanism of composite circular knitting machines
are: I = 575, No = 250, N
k.s
= 4 Determine the characteristics of feedback from the
sample and fill kit plate mechanisms for obtaining a sample of variable clad weave on
the basis of right-left-smooth interlacement.

Solution:
1. Determination parameters in the field of knitting V(N
o
, R, N
k.s
)


I/N
o
= N
s.r.r
+R; 575/250 = 2+75; R = 75.

Thus, V(250, 75, 4).

2. According to the previously given formulas Diophantine

x
2
= D (N
o
, R); x
2
= D(250, 75) = 25 = R



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y
1
= R
h
= . 40
) 75 , 250 (
4 250
y ;
) , (
1
.
=

= =
D
R
R N D
N N
h
o
s k o

3.


( ). 10 mod 1 3
;
25
250
mod 1
25
75

|

\
|


10 : 3 = 3 +1; 3: 1 = 3. Accordingly, = 3.
y
2
= N
k.s
; y
2
= 3 4 = 12.


4. By determining the parameters of the sample draw patron feedback from the squa
re paper in C = B / A (Figure 13.12); for smooth interlacement adopt C = 0.865. Denote
the coordinates of the vector patrons, determine the repeat, design a pattern. Left-to
number the rows of cartridges feedback from the sample, beginning on the first, down a
series of numbered loops repeat, will start with 0, the right of the feedback from knitting
to denote systems in which the knit rows loops feedback from



Figure 13.12. Patron of the sample with a rectangular shape feedback from

5. Position number plate or coil in the feedback from any given square can be
determined by the formula already given, just as quickly we can create graphics. Right
write the first (zero) through feedback from the sample, which Includes a number of
elements positions selections board. It is always fulfilling, because every time the next
revolution of the cylinder to give bearing loop knitting series and give the system a
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certain position j + R. Numbering positions of the selection panel for the zero loop series
begin with a 0.

6. Number of positions selection elements for each plate Knitting system writes in the
table beginning on the feedback from the zero range, corresponding to the initial number
of positions of sections of the selection panel. The final number of positions of each
section is determined as, j
o,i
+x
2
. group selection elements (sections) we bring to the table
in order of growth, for each of them we find the number of rows repeat, by which we
determine the type of position selection elements of each section. Number of 0 indicates
the absence of platinum in the channel plate, a number of start-platinum.

Example 2. Given six serial repeat (Figure 82), defined vectors ( x
1
= 9; y
1
= 30), (x
2

= 18; y
2
= 2) and equipped frame (honeycomb) covering the field of knitting. Determine
the parameters of composite mechanism of the production process
Solution:
Determining the number of knitting systems

n = D (y
1
, y
2
) ; n = D (30, 2) = 2.

We find the number plate position selection mechanism for the known expression

N
o
= x
1
y
2
x
2
y
1
/ Dy
1
, y
2
= 92 18/2 =261.

Determination R. Solving the system of equations we determine the value of R

-30/2 (R) 9 (mod 261)
- 2/3 (R) 18 (mod 261);
-15R 9 (mod 261);
-R 18 (mod261),

It follows, that R = 261 -18 = 243.



















Figure 13.13. Patron of the sample with a net-like form of feedback from
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The parameters of the mechanism plate N
o
261, R = 243, N
k.s
= 2, a number of knitting
needles can be 504, 765, 1026 and so on, as is evident from the equation

I = N
o
N
s.r.r
+ R, where N
s.r.r
= 1, 2, .n.

Number of positions selection plate element, which is involved in knitting a given line
repeat, determine the formula.
For the mechanism with the film strip (classic mode) or magnetic tape for the N
o
> 1
equation of the best part of the division

[ I/N
o
] is equal to the 0th Accordingly, R = I. In this case the field of knitting takes the
form of V ( N
o
, I, N
k.s
), for example, to obtain feedback from rectangular report

y
1
= R
h
= N
o
N
k.s
/D ( No I );
x
2
= R

= D ( N
o
, I ).


Y
2
size and determined from
-
) , ( I N D
R
o
1 .
) , (
mod
|
|

\
|
I N D
N
o
o



Example3. Determine the parameters of the base of feedback from the sample
selection mechanism of the film strip when I = 1100, N
o
= 3600, N
s
= 4, N
s.r.r
= 1.
Solution:
1. Determination knitting parameter fields V ( N
o
, R, N
k.s
). Based on the famous
equation R = I= 1100; consequently, V (3600, 1100, 4).

2. Po given formulas we find that the

y
1
= R
h
= N
o
N
k.s
/ D (N
o
, I ); y
1
= 36004 /D (3600, 1100) = 144;
x
2
= D ( N
o
, I); x
2
= D (3600, 1100) = 100;
- = 1100 / 100 ); 36 (mod 1 i = 13;
y
2
= N
k.s
= 52.

Given by the general formulas calculating the parameters for the mechanism of
feedback from the sample with an electronic system programming choices magnetic
tape as a carrier program. Usually to the system D ( N
o
, I ) = I.

14. The depth of weft
14.1. Ways to create different depths of weft
primary and plush yarn

On circular knitting machines with latch needles, and the single cylinder machines,there
are specially constructed of platinum (sinker).
In figure 14.1, lines show the profile of the nose ordinary platinum, solid line-stuffed.
In figure 14.2 shows the motion path bending hooks in the schedule to the vertical pla
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ne. Part of k corresponds to lowering the needle on the edge of locks for the descent of
needles, part kn -crossing needles with the launching of needles at the start line to
raise lift pins, of nn-raising needles per line pickup pins. Vertical line 1, 2, 3,4 5, i 6
denote needle you t
i-
step-needle machine, V
p
-soft yarn guide, In core yarn, O O-
line guard plane, O-O-line level of weft for the stuffed cross.
Soft yarn is added to the machine under the needle pitch angle
n.p,
primary-
n.o.


Figure 14.1. Schema
of plush loops with platinum
the hosiery machine

At the time, when the needle hook
procedure plush yarn, nose platinum is
distributed the among yarns, then
plush yarn is folded into the frame around
the nose of platinum and has a greater
depth of weft h
k.p
, withthe main yarn,
which is at the time of weft, bent on chin
platinum.



Denote the depth of weft core yarn with h
k.o
(Figure 14.1, shown by the appearance
of AA), the distance from the dewlap of platinum to the top of the nose with a, then

a = h
k.p
-h
k.o
,

Height teddy locks is determined structure of platinum, which is a larger size, thus
increasing plush tress, and vice versa.
It is certain that the number of needles n, which also participate in the cross of
cooling depends on the inclination angle of weft of the needle lowering , the steps you
machine t
i
needles and the depth of weft h
k
. This dependence can be expressed formula

N
i
= h
k
/ t
i
cos .

With increasing depth the number of weft needles , N
i
that is, occurs through trapping of
the yarn.
In figure 14.2 we see that the basic weft yarn at the time two pins 1,2, and velvet-four
pins 1, 2, 3, 4.
When knitting plush based on derived smooth weave yarn pressure disappears, since
the number of needles, which is involved in knitting in each knitting system is reduced
by two times.
On a twin cylinder machines additional flat weft creates a special hooks K (Figure
14.3), which are set into the top cylinder. In this case also maintain conditions, as well
as on single cylinder machines, that is,

n.p
>
n.o
; h
k.p
>h
k.o
.

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Figure 14.2. The motion path to the highest point bent hooks

The basic yarn is to be taken only on the lower needle cylinder, a velvet-on hooks,
placed in the top cylinder, and the lower needle cylinder. To accomplish the overthrow
of plush loops, hooks K swing under the influence of the Special frontal wedge
(brackets) by the arrow and around the point O.
On warp knitting machines, which have two beds of needles I and II (Figure 14.4),
supplementary weft even create special needles (tubular), placed in the reservoir II. The
machine also has a rail Leg (pipe,): P front and rear Z. Position of the leg determine
the relative bearing rails and, filled with knitting needles, if necessary-latch. Soft yarn is
taken to the needles of both bearing, a basic -only knitting needles in a field I bearing. In
figure 4.14 shows the movement of both leg rails in the process of laying the yarn on the
needle machines. Laying is carried out at the beginning of the needles in a
field II, then the pins on the cradle I. The table 14.1 shows the mode Leg rails.

Table 14.1.
loop mode Insert rails The operation of the process of
creating
front with the main
yarn
last with primary
yarn
movement as
a pendulum
movement as
a pendulum
quiescence quiescence



Laying the yarn on the tray II


movement as
a pendulum

movement as
a pendulum

movement as
a pendulum
movement as
a pendulum
turn turn


Laying the yarn on the tray I
movement as
a pendulum
movement as
a pendulum


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Figure 14.3. Schema of plush loops for a twin cylinder machine

From considered mode Insert rails we see that taking the core yarn in the bearing off
needle II, because at the moment turns laying on the front needle bearing needle
remains at rest.
In figure 14.4 shows the laying of soft yarn needle-II' and II''(base-trick). The time
when the yarn the needle II' Insert rails running contrary to laying, then the generally
getting clad plush yarn knit back Rail leg out to side of face loops (loop for as half
needles 10', 11', 12 ').
It may be the case, the plush yarn is placed on the needle 11', 10' (Movement of the
last leg rails Z shown as dotted lines). Then the time when the yarn to the needle 10
'both leg rails shall make a unilateral diversion of the plush yarn comes out of
the reverse side of the loop.

15. The process of making weft interlacement

Weft interlacement cloth are made in weft and warp knitting machines for at least two
yarn systems: primary and weft. The most widespread method of knitting the two-sided
or left-right cross weft knitting yarns based on the Rib and its derivatives interlacement,
and bilateral weft knitted knitwear with vertical weft yarns on the basis of reverse smooth
interlacement.
Elementary knitted interlacement Mesh weft usually produce the weft yarns, the direction
of rows inserted in loop twists (with longitudinal weft yarns). In his receiving guided by
the following three rules:

Insert weft tracks performed at the turn behind the needle distributed closer to the back
needle, than basic.
Only in this case the weft yarn can be placed under binding parts of the basic yarn;


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Figure 14.4. Schema
of plush loops on Raschel machine

Insert weft yarn laying rails on the needles
does not executed, and receiving only turn
behind the needle;
the left-right warp knitting machines, each
Insert rails can be compared to the weft wires
of different bearing needles.
The principle of obtaining the warp knitted
knitwear weft weave given in figure 15.1. Weft
yarns P
p
laying in hiatus, we are creating II
wrap around the surface of a needle with
clasps (needles) 2 and area and position of
the yarn basic Insert by rail. (Figure 15.1,a). In
this yarn yawn P
p
can take the leg rails
P
p
their turns, shuttle looms and weaving as a
catcher bars (as a weft yarn 5) or leads to the
hooks needles special device by the arrow
a. Other than textile the yarn yawn may be
introduced flax or hemp bands 4, other piece
woven fibrous materials, and also lining from
ruptured textile yarn. In this case, the needle
head sharpened spikes pierce the fibrous
material sixth.
After the introduction of weft yarn in the
core yarn yawn Insert By rail are placed on
pins and needles, and weft yarns are closed
between back needle, basic parts of loop 3
and half of the core move b, from which

further creates loop connecting parts ( Figure15.1,b). In carrying out the operation
design (Figure 15.1,c) weft yarn will be involved in basic tricot knit between the base and
the binding parts of the loop.
In introducing the material to yawn in the form of fibrous cloth it will be trimmed basic
yarns (with one of their the base will be located parts of the loop, and the other
binding parts).
In figure 15.2 shows the distribution by 24 Insert rails warps Yarn Raschel lace knitting
machines.
The figure marked :

I-leg cantilever support rails;
II-Insert rails;
III-platinum beams;
IV-Insert perforated core needle tracks;
V-guides-perforated needles weft Insert rails;
VI-beams with refusing platinum.

Insert tracks 1, 4 knit a basic cloth, leg rails 2, 3-in weft relation to rail Insert 1, but they
can create the basic loop (the Insert rails are used in obtaining the edge lace). Insert
P-Front Insert rails
Z- Last Insert rails
Basic yarn
Yarn
plating
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tracks 5-24 were taken. Guides cross-perforated Insert needle tracks 2, 3 and 5-24 were
placed on one line turns (a total of Raschel machine of this type has 10 lines turn).



Figure 15.1. Schema of warp knitted weft knitted knitwear
interlacement with wrap around wires and two rails Insert(Laying) basics: The basic rail-
Leg yarn, P
p
-Insert rails weft yarn, b-of the core yarn.

In figure 15.3 shows the distribution of tracks on the right leg-right Raschel machine tag:

1.2 - beams with refusing platinum;
I
1
, I
2
-needle bearings;
3, 4 - beams with end platinum;
I, II, III-Insert rails.

Rail Insert II, III may be weft in relationship to the I2, rails Insert I, II in relation to the
base of I
1
, II-Insert rails relative to the base of I
1
and I
2
.
More complex there is the process of warp knitted twists with weft yarns cross, inlaid
throughout the width of the knitwear. Sequence of the process of creating the loop (a-
d) at the Raschel machine with wrap around d wires is shown in figure 14.4. (More
details of knitting technology Part II, by V. Gligorijevic).
In developing warp knitted knitwear weft interlacement size and direction of the turn
behind the needle weft and fundamental Insert Rails defines the structure of knitted
twists. We distinguish six basic variants of the basic weft turns Insert rails behind the ne
edle.
Features knitwear structures depending on the conditions and direction turning Insert
rails behind needles shown in table 15.1. Turning basic after Insert rails needles are
marked with the corresponding vector sizes and (this is to draw the basic leg rails behind
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the needle). Design of diversion weft Insert (Laying) rail, necessary for making twists
with a given structure, perform basic rules that we gave up.



Figure 15.2. Schematic layout of perforated needle leg rails on Raschel
machine with 20 warps yarns


























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Table 15.1


16. The process of making warp knitted
interlacement footer

In the preparation of warp knitted knitwear interlacement tiles with footers footer yarns
set back further from the needle, but the warp.
Sequence single-cycle methods for making warp knitted knitwear interlacement footer
is shown in figure 16.1. Yarn warps P
o
and P
f
Insert rails (Laying) footer taking on
the needles at the same time (Figure 16.1, a, b, c). Finalized after taking the cross footer
tiles are drained by half closing the loops float (blades, impact plate) D
z
(Figure 16.1,d).
Then the needle is lowered to create a new order of the loop.
Footer yarn to overthrow the newly created loops with half loops.
When two-cycle method of drafting the basic knitwear and yarn footer shall be on pins
and needles with partition. The process of creating a loop of warp knitting machines with
needle-pointed and press with alternate work is shown in figure 16.2. In the first cycle
of the needle is taken footer yarn F insert rails P
f
(Figure 16.2,a) pin down and not
pressed (press be excluded), and footer yarn (Parts I-II, II-III) is removed by half loops in
the heads of pins (Figure 16.2, b).
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Table 15.1






















Figure 15.3. Schematic layout of Insert (Laying) rails
Raschel right-right machine

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Figure 15.4. The process of creating a loop weft yarn laying all over
width of warp knitted twists
1-needle, 2-beam bouncing platinum, 3 - Mesh, 4, 5-tiles with primary
yarn, 6 - upper platinum, 7-transporter weft yarn, 8 - weft yarn; 9 lower platinum, 10 -
needle valves



Figure 16.1. A cyclic way of making warp knitted knitwear interlacement footer

In the second cycle the needle to raise the level of closure (Figure 16.2, c)they are
taking only the basic yarn on Rails By Insert and creates a new line loop yarn,
with yarn footer parts I-II, II-III to overthrow the new Loop 2 together with half a loop
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(Figure 16.2, d).
On warp knitting machines with wrap around two-cycle method of making needles
footer interlacement knitwear is achieved in the same order, as well as on
machines with pointed needles. Instead of presses used to run the shutter mechanism
of the machine needle. This is actually a pin that slides on the body of the needle up
and down when it is necessary to close the top of the hook needles, to be able
to perform a switching half loops with the needle body through the needle head.
In figure 16.2 on warp knitting machines with latch glam and closing float in two-
cycle method of knitting knitwear interlacement footer initially lay the yarn on the needles
footer rails, then they are taken by half closing the loops float.
Pins extending discharge, and they can then take the yarn basic Insert rails.



Figure 16.2. Two-cycle method of making a knitted knitwear warp footer interlacement

Two-cycle methods of making warp interlacement knitwear is more reliable than cyclical,
its use is possible to meet all the basic connectivity and laying footers yarn. The main
deficiency of a cyclic way using closing tablet is about the ability to overthrow the tabs
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not only footers needles, but the basic yarn.
In figure 16.3 shows the structure and graphical display of knitted knitwear warp footers
interlacement. Insert footer rails can carry not only the usual, but also laying twill.
Unfinished footers loops of different types are shown in the table.
Figure 16.4 shows the structure of the weft interlacement tights (Figure 16.4) and
footer (Figure 16.4) yarn. As we see in the picture weft yarn does not create a loop and
connects to the base just below the binding parts of the loop leotards.
Unlike them footer yarn wrapped around the circle of the main base of the loop.

Table 16.1 shows the possible variants of the basic laying and footers yarn needle (NS)
and behind the needle (IS). Linking laying yarn, indicated the braces, is possible in a
cyclic way of making cloth. When two-cycle method of knitting is possible to connect any
basic laying and footers.
Warp knitted interlacement Mesh footers are made on a right-left Raschel machines. Of
the production machine is equipped with a press falling. This is actually a metal plate 2
(Figure 16.4, a) located between the base 1 and footers Insert rails third The role is that
tiles footer drains down cross, laying is the language of needles along with the
primary. In this yarn footers are moved with the tab needles on their stems, it would not
come under the needle hooks during their descent. From Figure 16.4, we see that b
footer yarn in a row footer leotards creates Locks with a snare , and in row 2 no snare.
Locks the trap is obtained by laying the yarn footers rule of creating closed-
loop, and no traps-usually creating open loops. .
For the cloth is usually applied tricot and satin interlacement with open and closed
loops. Therefore, in order to footer yarn relief aside, we use the basic open-loop
shape. But sometimes we designed a closed loop, so as not to violate the rule on taking
the footer and the main switch in opposite directions. Footers yarn is usually doubled or
tripled, in the fundamental for a better look relief sample.




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Figure 16.3. The structure and graphical display warp knitted
knitwear footers interlacement


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Table 16.1: Variations of taking the basic and footers yarn on
needles and pins behind








Types of incomplete footers loop
Footer traps distributed over the binding parts Footer traps distributed over the binding parts
open loop open loop...

Closed loop footer Footer open loop Closed loop footer Footer open loop

Note:
*
The resulting variant is possible only with two-cycle featherstitch


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In figure 16-5, b shows the pattern of warp knitted interlacement footer with four rails
with four rails warps yarns on the right-left Raschel machine.

17. Making curtains and lace

Today, most products from curtains and lace produce mainly warp knitting how
jacquard warp knitting machines with more guide bar warps yarns. The basis for its
production are used in the first place and weft footer interlacement.
Curtain and lace are actually sampled mesh products where the characteristic cells of
equal or different in its shape and size, and are mutually spaced and connected densely
covered with knitwear parts in accordance with the pattern sample.
According to the composition of products from curtains and lace are divided into two
groups: elementary and complex structures.
About main products contain the usual basis twisted yarns were sampled; main
products of this group may or may not have sampled the yarn. The products to
a complex structure , we have sampled and basic systems of yarns, yarn sampled
meet while the role of connecting and creating your own Mesh mesh lace products; in
them can not exceed the basic to create a basic knitting.
Application knited the lace-curtain products depends fineness of weft-knitted twists
combined filet or footer- filet interlacement. The products of weft-filet interlacement
patterns are created by passing weft sampled yarn, the product footer filet-interlacement-
footer sampled by passing the yarn.Thus, the essence of curtain- lace product samples
that are produced in weft and laying footers sampled yarn.
Model structure of a warp knit -knitwear base knitting with weft yarns sampled,
graphics and composition of the chain given in figure 17.1. The basis of curtains as
opposed to the basics of lace has a macrostructure types of networks with rectangular
cells, whose The size of the horizontal a
h
= t
h
, vertically a
v
= t
v
, where is t
h
t
v
and
horizontal and vertical step cells.To obtain the basic knitwear curtains using three a
basic system of yarn, creating a chain and was introduced in pitting needle P
1
, and two
weft 2 and 3, introduced in accordance with the weft tiles P
2
and P
3
. Patterns on the
back of the core network creating systems sampled weft yarns 4, whose diameter
along for more contrasting (opposite) of the sample exceeds the diameter basic and
fundamental to weft dy
1
and dy
2
yarn. Size cells vertically in the base yarn is determined
in accordance with formula ,

a
v =
nB
L
+ B
Lp
,

where n is the number of rows knitted-chains between the parts of his connectivity;
B
L
-row height loop chains in action connectivity;
B
LP
-line height loop chains on the part of connecting .
.
Size of the core network horizontally depends on applied basic introduction yarn the
tiles, measuring warp knitting machines and technological interference coefficient
curtain with aging (resting):

a
h
= R
o
t (1- K
u
),

where R
o
-repeat the introduction of basic yarn in the tiles;
t-step needle Elementary knitting machines;
K
u
-interference ratio technological twists Curtain.
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Figure 17.1. Position
footer at the base guide
bar knitting knitwear interlacement
footer (a) and a sample of
this knitwear (b).

In figure 17.2 shows the model complex
structures with lace weft yarn passing
sampled. The peculiarity of the composition
of such lace, by comparison with the basic,
the appearance of the presence of different
cells in shape and mutual arrangement,
obtained by connecting weft yarns were
sampled 2, 3, 4, 5 and so on some strings
loop chains in a different connection. Weft
yarn running simultaneously sampled and the
role of linkage, which gives the possibility of
creating a product with the samples in the
form of parts covered by weft yarns, up to
date through the various openings in shape,
size and arrangement of cells. Dense
coverage in parts I, II weft yarns are laid in
each loop binding under different parts of the
loop sequences depending on the width of
coverage, to obtain cells that are created are
not connecting loop sequences (Parts III, IV,
VIII, X and so etc.) it is necessary to weft
yarn laid in one and the same number of
loops in a few lines of the loop.
A series of loops, forming cells, are linked to
each other in parts of the connection VI, V,
VII, which are distributed in accordance with
the size and shape of the obtained sampled
effect. Size of cells and, step cells th and T
V
,
loop steps A
1
and A
2
in such curtain-lace
products depends on the nature of the
sample.
The curtains and laces, as basic and
complex structures (Figure 17.2), creating sampled effects, diverse and complex
systems to adjust the number sampled weft yarn, introduced in individual perforated
needle guide bar warp knitting machines.

In figure 17.3 shows an example of the cartridge and sample preparation of data for a
basic lace, which is executed using the 14 sampled weft guide bar Raschel machine.
Analogue patron basic curtains and curtain-lace product complex structure, as for the
paper Applying rectangular shape of cells.
A much larger number of sampled effects we can get the curtain-lace products, made
the Raschel machine, perforated needle guide bar which is run jacquard mechanism for
sampling. Articles, made the machines, usually have a complex structure; sampled weft
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yarn or footer in them are used simultaneously and Lookup. If connecting parts sampled
footer yarn on the reverse side of the binding parts lie above the main loop, the knitting
patterns to footer greater the contrast and relief, than on the knitting weft weave, which is
the process of getting a complex.
In figure 17.4 shows the model structure of lace-curtain products, creating a pattern
that passing as weft, yarns and footer. The product is a network with rectangular shape
of cells, obtained from three yarn systems: P
o
, P
uz1
, P
uz2
. The sample is associated
systems P
y
and P
F
footer yarns. Sampled weft yarns in such a yarn are arranged below
the binding of basic parts and connecting parts footer P
F
yarn from the back cover basic
and weft yarn sampled and thanks to the knitting pattern we have two elements: the weft
less contrast and more contrast and relief from the footer yarn.




















Figure 17.1. Model structure of warp knitted twists with weft yarn core
sampled yarns, graphics and composition of the basic chain interlacement
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Figure 17.2. Model com
plex structures lace wef
t interlacement

18. Warp
knitted jacquard

Warp knitted jacquard
knitwear with ever
increasing distribution in
the textile industrial
heartland. Principle of
their obtain is analogous
to the principle of
obtaining weft jacquard
fabric,
where yarn do not laying
on all pins, but depending
on the sample, with the
needles, on which yarn
do not claim, half loops
are not overthrown.
The essence of obtaining warp knitted jacquard knitwear consists in the fact that on a
periodic needles create a loop jacquard and other-simple, basic. Work this is done on
the machine group selection of needles.
Warp knitted jacquard knitwear we make the right-left and right-right machinery as
well as monochrome and multicolored.


Figure 18.1. Model structures sampled
curtain lace interlacement created and
weft
yarns footers

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Figure 17.3. Patron schemes and sample introduction yarns guide bar for a
lace weft interlacement
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18.1. Right-left jacquard interlacement

Right-left jacquard knitwear are made of High-speed chain and Raschel machines,
with are equipped with special mechanisms for sampling.
Mechanism for sampling consists of one or two presses and a sampled smooth. At High-
speed machines we use a serrated chain presses, Raschel machines on pressed pellets
,whose order depends on the layout of the created pattern.
Sampled presses receive longitudinal movement of the chain, which consists of the
glider or articles of different heights, analogous to the chain for longitudinal turning
guide bar. Raschel machines at all the press can also be excluded from work.
To obtain a right-left jacquard knitwear warp apply incomplete introduction to the guide
bar and sampled with a press repett matching tiles pressed, the corresponding repeat
of the introduction guide bar. Thus, for example, if the four holes needle introduce warp
yarns in four fail to introduce, we will ask the press pressed pellets of the four needle
sharing, and following parts of presses, the same four divisions without pressed tiles.
Pins, on which lay the cross, pressed, and pins, on which yarn do not claim, not pressed,
and half loop with them not overthrown.
All right-left jacquard knitwear are divided into two groups: simple embossed and
embroidered relief.

18.1.1. A simple embossed jacquard interlacement

The textured jacquard interlacement embossed parts are created as a result of tensi-
on their jacquard loops.
Connecting different parts of the relief holes in the knitting appears characteristic
external look simple jacquard interlacement. For its production of non perforated needles
introduced, arranged in a row report, they must overcome the maximum number of need
les in drawing guide least minus 2nd When non maxi compliance repeated Group
Policy warps yarns, introduced in the perforated needle, do not connect with each other.
Number of introduced non-perforated needles, arranged in a row, depending on the
nature of the obtained sample, just as it is necessary to take into account, the lower
the number of needles, non-imposed consecutively, by a small number of rows
of loops, drawn from a simple loop to fit the a jacquard loop, and consequently, the
sample will have less and less clarity of relief allocated to the knitting.
Warp knitted knitting with a simple textured patterns are made of High speed chain
and Raschel machines.
In figure 18.4 shows the position of the needle move in obtaining a simple jacquard
warp knitted knit wears. On the bodies of needles 9-12 are half loops 1, 2, 3, and 4
(Figure18.4).Drilled needles are arranged behind the needle. The two holes pins
(5 and 6) were introduced in the yarn, which is associated with the ends of pages half
loops 1 and 2 Drilled pins (7 and 8) are without introduction.
Sampled equipped press the press plate in accordance with the order shown to the
introduction of perforated needles.
In the process of creating a loop warps yarns are placed only on pins (9 and 10). When
sliding down the needle bar newly laid yarn moved under the needle hooks. On the
bodies of needles 11 and 12 to remain more half loop 3 and 4, which indicate that the in
the right loop and also a loop located on the bodies adjacent pins.

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In figure 18.4, b shows the moment when a half loop and 2 with the overthrow of
needles 1 and 14, and moved to the base of the new created loops 13 and 14, emerged
from the newly passed loop.
If during the creation of several rows of loops do not claim move to one and the same
needle to collect the more that half loop, called jacquard. After their overthrow of the loop
will be found by several orders of the loop in the neighboring series of loops and twists
tensile parts, consisting from a simple loop, creating relief on the knitting patterns.

According to this relief in parts of jacquard warp knitted yarn can be opened, that we
create in those places where no real connections between sequences of loops. These
Figure 18.2. Twists sampled combined interlacement:
a-structure of the knitwear interlacement weft-footers, b, c-
structure and graphical display weft -warp knitted knitwear
jacquard interlacement press
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openings are created between rotating loops, obtained by an extreme group introduced
yarn perforated needles, and jacquard loops, obtained by the following end yarns group.




Figure 18.3.Twists of complex composite interlacement: a graphical representation of a
bilateral weft knitted knitwear, b, c-structure and graphical display weft - warp knitted knit
wear.
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A simple embossed jacquard knitwear are made of warp knitting machines with using
one, two or more guide bar.
Therefore, determining the order of introduction pressed tiles in One press repeat
sampled in the case of application colored warps assembled sought schedule.


Figure 18.4. The position of the yarn using
sharp needles when obtaining
a simple warp knitted jacquard knitwear


In figure 18.5 shows a simple scheme
suspended embossed knitwear jacquard
interlacement. As a base interlacement in a
given case, we use Atlas-tricot.
Drilled needles have skipped introduction of
four yarns perforated plate. Profile sampled
presses corresponding to the introduction
guide at least, that is +4 -4. Repeat
interlacement vertically equals 32 rows of
loops. Binding if we get such knitwear in
which each loop must be connected vertically
with loops in the next row.
From the presented conditional schemes
we see that the significant part of the
loop connection with the following must be
stretched vertically to several orders of loops
from two to eight. At this date the
loop tightening the adjacent parts of twists,
which are composed of loops normal size,
causing the yarn to create a relief samples.

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Figure 18.5. Conditional relief scheme simple warp knitted
Jacquard interlacement cloth


18.2. Embroidered jacquard interlacement embossed

Embroidered jacquard interlacement we call such a relief, in which the background,
creating a yarn, woven patterns, which consist of embossed berries, cylinders and other
figures. When obtaining embroidered jacquard interlacement apply at least two guide
bar: A bar guide with full introduction, and another for embroidery with incomplete
introduction. Each of them corresponds to their presses: the basic guide bar-smooth
press for embroidered-sampled.
In figure 18.6, shows the position of the needle move in making embroidered right-top
jacquard knitwear. Yarn for embroidery runs only on needles 1 and 2 (Figure6.18, 6a),
and the pins 3 and 4 extend to more half loops, created from the basic yarn. In executing
the final stage in the process of knitting sampled presses 2-2 pressed only those pins,
on which is laid yarn for embroidery, for which the overthrow of half of the needle loops
resulting in each loop.
In figure 6.18, b shows such a position where the pins 1 and 2, creating three loops of
yarn for embroidery, and needle 3 and 4 extend to over half loops, created from the
basic yarn. After this, the future work will be included smooth machine presses, running
the overthrow of half loops on all needles, and a jacquard loop correspond to the three
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loop yarn obtained from a berth in the adjacent rows of loops. These loops will be
stretched jacquard loops, and the knitting create relief patterns.



Figure 18.6. The position of the yarn using sharp needles in the preparation
of right-left jacquard knitwear

Perforated needle (guide) embroidery with incomplete introduction shall pass to the part
pins, which are sampled pressed presses; then the needles overthrow half loops. With
the other needle loops are not overthrow as long, while the basic guide bar does not
pass the crossing at all pins and press them smooth pressed. Patterns, created yarns for
embroidery on the back of the main loop, typically consist of berries, cylinders and other
flat pieces. Sometimes the patterns emphasize the introduction of the guide bar for
stitching, and sometimes in the main, the yarn of different colors.
Embossed berries and other embroidery patterns on the number of rows of loops, the
distance you move the boat lay on one and the same needle. Allowing a greater number
of these lines, it will be protruding element of the sample. Also in production conditions
do not recommend making preparations with berries, obtained by the creation of more
than 4-5 rows of loops, since it reduces productivity. The external appearance of berries
depends on the applied interlacement. For example, the chain twill create small berry,
similar to nodes, the use of denser interlacement tights get berries, and laying the cloth
ones are the most relief allocated to the knitting. To obtain grapes with the most rounded
and circular apply atlas interlacement.
Fewer raw materials and fewer rows need for a loop when using berries twill chains,
which results in this way widely used in industry. In Figure 18.3 shows the pattern of
warp knitted jacquard embroidered knitwear, made of high-speed chain machine. When
obtaining a given cloth with illustration with relief "berries", arranged in triangular
arrangement on a smooth monochrome grounds, as a basis we use interlacement-tricot
cloth with closed loops.






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Figure 18.7. Sample jacquard embroidered knitwear,
obtained high-speed chain machine


"Berries" create within the guide bar yarns for embroidery, cross-laying twill chains in 7,
8, 9, 10, 11, 18, 19, 20, 21, and 23-third row repeat. After feedback from the ranks of
creating some basic loops and yarn for embroidery as well as lay the weft. This provides
the appropriate sequence composition of the chain, resulting in the movement and
primary guide bar for stitching. As we see the introduction of the scheme yarn (Figure
18.8), primary guide bar (I
o
III
o
) have a full introduction, a guide bar for stitching (IIo)
incomplete introduction (three holes filled with pins, a five-empty).
As an example of obtaining embroidered jacquard knitting Raschel machine, we
consider the conditions obtaining knitwear, pattern presented in Figure18.9, with a
graphical display in figure 18.10.
Colored embossed pattern gives the yarn when working two guide bar, the first shows
the full opening, and other incomplete-over two pins. As a basis we use Atlas with closed
loops. To create an embroidered berry (second) guide bar periodically taken by the
principle of creating cross leotards. To obtain a sample of the work involved two presses:
a smooth and sampled 2-2. When creating a smooth berry exclude press from working
by setting the appropriate chain glider with the number 12.
Sampled notched presses Raschel machines get back-governing movement of special
chains that are mounted on the lower chain drum, which is located below the upper
chain drum (drum muster).




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Slika18.8. Graphics, composition and chain schemes move to a sample
Introduction knitwear in figure 18.7

The chain operates the brakes and smooth is made from the glider or the size of two
articles, among which is the difference of six specimens of steps.
Lower glider corresponds to the inclusion of a smooth press in operation, a high
glider its lockout. For example, if the glider with the number 12 position corresponds
to the exclusion of smooth pressed, glider with the number 0 is included in the work.
When outages as smooth presses, crimping is executed sampled a press, which is
composed of a press plate.
To change the Raschel machine press used a special device. To obtain multiple
samples of the Raschel machine, sometimes using both decommissioning of smooth
and f smooth and sampled presses. Presses are in the off position during the creation
of several rows of loops, whose number depends on the conditions of preparation.

Notched Smooth
press press
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Figure 18.9. Pattern embroidered jacquard knitwear, obtained by the Raschel
machine with pointed needles (Spitz Raschel)

























Figure 18.10. Graphic representation of the knitwear
sample in figure 18.5



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19. Knitted knitwear warp knitted weft
interlacement and their analysis


19.1. Structure
. Weft knitting knitwear interlacement is called, which contain the basic
knitting yarn complementary, unrelated to the loop. These additional yarns are woven
between the base or base and the binding parts of the loop.
In developing a weft knitted knitwear interlacement a yarn system is taken to the pins
and creates a basic loop, and another system of weft is interwoven into the main loop
without their taking the needle. Weft knitted knitwear interlacement can be obtained on
the basis of any major derivative interlacement. These twists are divided:


the kinds of basic weave, in which wefts yarns are woven, - the one-sided (Figure 19.1,
a,g, 19.2, a,d) and bilateral (Figure 19.2, e,f), smooth wefts (as Figure 19.1, b ,19.2, e)
and warp knit (as Figure 19.1, a ,c,d , e,g, 19.2, a,d, f);
the direction of taking wefts yarn in the main cross-interlacement wefts yarns (as Figure
19.1, g 19.2, e), with longitudinal weft yarns (as Figure 19.1, a, c, d, e, g 18.8, b, c ), with
longitudinal and transverse wefts yarns (as Figure 19.1, b 18.8, a). Twists, in which the
knitting direction coincides with the direction of taking wefts yarn, we make usually
simple;
the number of loop sequences, in which the weft yarns pass in a row interchanges with
wefts yarns, pass in limited series of loops (as figure 19.1, a, c, d, f .,19.2, b, c, d, f) with
wefts yarns, pass the width of fabric (as Figure 19.1, b, d, 19.2, and, e).
In general we can say that the weft yarn can be applied as: weft-tufted to create twists in
the form of lining;-taking to reduce or increase the thickness of tensile knitwear, weft-to
create a fringe of yarn;-linking for linking each individual loop sequences; decorative -to
create patterns in the form of connection slots on the reverse wefts yarn twists, pull-in
periodic alternating work guide bars.
To obtain the warp yarn wefts knitting machines do not need any special
equipment. Just to have two guide bars of which one wefts (introduction wefts yarn).
and other basic (introduction of a basic move).Since the interference is crossed, the
guide bars are usually different, it is necessary for each guide bars have separate warp.

To obtain the warp yarn wefts knitting machines require:

weft yarn that does not give the needle;
weft yarn that does not intersect the base of the loop on the side of the face;
weft yarn that runs between the base and attachment of the loop, where the side of the
face intersects the base of the loop, and the reverse loop connecting part;
that the weft yarns do not claim under the needle, it lies between the rows of loops and
exits the side of his face twists in the form of real cuts the yarn;
weft yarn to be taken in the same direction as the core, and at the same weft and basic
guide bars draw in the same general direction for an equal number of specimens steps;
weft yarn that does not intersect with the basic yarns and their slots free to lie on the
reverse twists.
Should be emphasized that the preparation machine for knitting wefts must weft guide
bars is a front, since only the front yarn may be drawn into the loop connecting part that
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is deducted from the needles. On the right-left Yarn machines both guide bars must be
wefts.
In weft knitting yarns play the role of linkage (as in figure 19.1, c, d; 19.2, b), skeletal
(as in figure 19.1, b, d, e, g), sampled (as in figure 19.2, b, c, d , e, f), and fringed weft
yarn.
The knitting yarns with fasteners wefts as a basic knitwear using unilateral or bilateral
chains, wefts yarn merging separate chains in knitting. In figure 19.1, c shows the
structure wefts twists, whose base is created by a chain, connected in knitting yarns
wefts Y. Each of wefts yarn connecting four sets of loops. Mesh interlacement such a
slight extension in length and width. The yarn (Figure19.1, f) interference wefts yarn a
and b associated series, made a necklace just in some loop lines (1, 3, 4, 6). Linkage
between wefts yarns and b sequences are inserted loop yarn longitudinal weft c and
d. This knit by high-density woven knitting will have a similar structure to be
characterized by the flexibility of slight.
In figure 19.2, b shows the structure of warp knitted twists, yarns and b wefts
executing at the same time the role of connecting and sampled. Laying wefts yarn
jacquard managed device. The created mesh knitting with cells, the characteristic sizes
t
h
and t
v
, updated effects through alteration of cells with different levels of coverage wefts
yarns. In knitting the weft yarns in the form of skeletal highly bound to change the basic
knitting yarn properties: reduced ductility and unraveling, increase shape stability and
flexibility and so on.
In figure 18.8, b shows the structure of Rib 1+1 lines connecting its loops and b wefts
yarns, filling the role of the skeleton. The introduction of the Rib wefts yarn reduces its
extensibility across. Applying the elastic yarns wefts, we can increase the elasticity of the
patent. Double weft knitting with elastic thread used for making corset, borders on the
products of socks, and so on.
Thanks skeletal wefts b yarns, knitwear below the binding parts of unilateral cross
necklace from c (Figure 18.7, a), increases strength and reduces elongation woven braid
(the same kind of structure will be the sites of cells of mesh knitwear). In Figure 19.1, b
shows the structure of smooth wefts knitwear, created from a cross, with the twisted
skeleton cross wefts yarns c and longitudinal yarns wefts b. This knit has a structure
analogous to the knitwear.
One way warp knitted knitwear interlacement wefts (Figure 19.1, f), obtained on the
basis of built tricot (cloth), with interwoven among its binding skeletal parts wefts yarns
Y
1
and Y
2
are characterized by low flexibility of its length, after removing a negligible
interference with knitting machines, increased form of stability. Wefts yarn Y
1
and Y
2
are
intertwined with the coupling parts of the base knitwear, adding to the knitting with a
structure similar to the reverse side of knitwear.
Warp-knitted woven mesh (Figure 19.1, e), obtained by the warp-knitting machine
weaving "Metap" (former Czechoslovakia), its structure is analogous to one-way warp
knitted yarn wefts interlacement (Figure 19.1, d).

19.2. Analysis of making clad interlacement the
right-left warp knitting machines


The basic rule of making clad twists the warp knitting machine is the same as the
wefts machines, namely the loop on the face cloth clad form of yarn, which is in the- the
minds of pins located closer to her back .
The individuality of laying the yarn on warp knitting machines creates several versions
of her laying conditions:
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ob guide bars execute the turn in front of the needle in one direction;
guide bars execute the turn in front of the needles in opposite directions;
two guide bars make the open-loop;
two guide bars generate a closed loop;
guide bar creates an open, one closed loop;
turn guide bar behind the needles can be as equally and differently.
Interlacement with greater lengths of binding parts can be made to the rear and the
front guide bars. We will look, how it affects the coverage (plating), each of these
conditions.


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e














Figure 19.1. Structure-sided knitwear interlacement wefts
with one or more warps and wefts yarn.


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Figure 19.2. The structure of one-sided and double-sided knitwear
interlacement wefts

19.3. Diversion guide bars in front of the
needle in one direction

In figure 19.3 is given diagram of certain operational processes clad loop
creation twists the warp knitting machine with needles pointed at guide bars before
turning needle in one direction. In figure 19.3, while there is a moment of laying the yarn
on the hook needle (First stage). Position and is characterized by setting guide bars
before pendulum movement. Conditional count front guide bars P those who closely
arranged (set) to the back pin, and Z back to those who still stand of the needles.
After pendulum movement (position II) guide bars running turn in front of the needles
to laying the yarn. In this front guide bar is slightly lower than the last, as a result His
yarns are distributed at greater angle to the plane of the needle And the smaller angle to
the line layout half loops P
1
and P
2
and then she put the needle hooks below the rear
cross guide bar. After the turn is executed contrary pendulum movement, and warps
wrapped yarn needle hooks.
For laying the yarn on the needle body (Figure 19.3, b) needle is lifted, and the yarn
coming down with hooks. To maintain a constant yarn tension guide bars are pendulum
moving farther behind back needles.
To carry out the following operation process of creating a loop pin down.
In figure 19.3, c shows the operation of publishing. How we see from the figure, first
under the hook enters the last yarn guide Z bar, the other front-yarn guide bar P. At the
moment , the overthrow and the creation (Figure 19.3, e) exceeds the heads of needles
distributed in such a way that is closer to the hook yarn guide bar back, and closer to the
body front-yarn guide bar. In the next cycle of the process of creating the loop executing
the operation to overthrow the first down with hooks loop, made from the yarn guide bar
back, and will be arranged on the reverse side, a loop of yarn front guide bar go down
the other and will be distributed the side of the face covered with a loop of yarn back
guide bar.

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19.3.1. Diversion guide bars in front of
the needles in opposite directions

In figure 19.4 shows the pattern of individual operations process of creating a loop
clad knitwear to warp knitting machine with a pointed needles when turning in front of the
guide bar needles in opposite directions.
In figure 4.19, and we see that the yarn cross after turn guide bar in front of needles in
opposite directions. When otherwise pendulum first movement of the hook needle is
taken yarn latest Z guide bar, so that it was located closer to hook needles, and on it,
crossed, lying on the front yarn guide bar P. In this position they go down and the needle
body (Figure 4.19, b). Furthermore, when falling needles cross in the minds of needles
are classified as:. that the cross-bar back guide closer to the body of the needle and
yarn front guide bar closer to hook (Figure 4.19, c). In the last operation of the
process creating a loop of yarn back guide bar creates loops on the face and the front
cross bar guide loop on the reverse (Figure 4.19, e).
If the motion does not change order guide bar, loop faces will be created constantly
move up the guide bar. In this case we get a smooth clad knitting.


19.3.2. Features generated loop

In figure 19.5, a, b, c shows the graph and chart laying the yarn on the needles to
create open-loop, the figure 19.5, e, f-the formation of closed loops, and the figure 19.1g
-and each other.
Reliable coverage of the yarn (plating) obtained at knitting equal or closed, or open
loop.

19.3.2.1. Diversion guide bars behind the needle

Diversion guide bars behind the needle comes with using the beginning of closure,
that is, the creation of a new order of the loop.
Then to start laying the needle (passage-turn- pendulum movement) to create open-loop
yarn connecting part distributed going behind the back plate. As a result open loop to a
greater extent then wrapped the needle, but closed. This is clearly visible in the
picture. Accordingly, open-loop with a larger force slips the needles, but closed, allowing
the movement of the needle upward and downward move can change places. Then a
better quality Cladding is knitting, linked from the same (open or closed) loop.
In figure 19.5, a and b shows the distribution of yarn in the preparation clad tricot
knitwear-cloth, with tights in the figure 19.5, and made the front guide bar and come
down to 19.5, b-last.
It can be seen that in both cases the front yarn guide bar is lower than last yarn guide
bar, and then knitting it out on the side of the face. Also in the yarn division the first case
(Figure 19.5, a) is more reliable, and plating get greater clarity.
In this way, the warp knitted knitwear clad rule making on warp knitting machine with a
pointed needle can be formulated in the following ways:

Loop person in front of the needles turn in one guide the direction of creating the front
bar, and in opposite directions- last;
Reliability plating increase the production of equal loop (closed or open) with the ob
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guide bar;
Reliability of Cladding increase also in creating interlacement with more short coupling
parts of the front guide bar;
The quality of plating, thus, determine the yarn and tilt loop.
Tummy warps yarns regulate starting from the following:

Increased tension increases the friction force exceeds the needles. Increased tension
loop remains of other, less tense, later entering the head pin, then distributed closer to
her body and overthrow the side of the face, according to Thus, greater tension on the
warp to provide, from yarns that are made loop persons;
In one case, when the yarn does not arbitrarily change places can (at laying the pins in
opposite directions), the loop faces give less tension, then they get greater length and
well cover the sides.
When tilting loops (unilateral diversion guide bars) get mixed colors. In this case the
background is created from they move, with less tension and from which, consequently,
create a larger loop.
All the foregoing indicates the complexity of the execution process cladding on warp
knitting machines.



Figure 19.3. Schematic of the process of creating individual operations
clad loop knitwear to warp knitting machine chain guide when
turning at least in one direction

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Figure 19.4. Schematic of the process of creating individual operations
clad loop knitwear on the basis of machine knitting guide bar
when turning in opposite directions


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Figure 19.5. Graphical schematic capture and laying the yarn in the
creation of open and closed loop. tricot and taft.


19.3.3. The principle of obtaining traps

In those places where the needles need to create traps, the new yarn is to be taken
on their toes, but the loop is not involved on account of exclusion from the overall cycle
of the loop creation: the closing, any weft, overthrow, the creation or formation, or extrus
ion.
Depending on which operation of the process of creating the loop is off, we distinguish
between three ways of getting traps:

No pressing (pointed pins);
No complete closure (s needle);
No weft and the creation (and languages pointed needles).
We will consider briefly each of these ways.

19.3.3.1. Getting traps on a machine with a pointed needle

On circular knitting machines and flat weft machines Cotton, which equipped with a
pointed needle, get a trap on account of disconnection operations of compaction in some
choice of needles, according to the report of the sample. In figure 6.19, a, b we see that
pin 2 was pressed, then the newly laid yarn (for hair), located in the head pins, and half
loop, which is located on top of the peak pressed pins, creating a so-called press loop or
snare . In fact, half loop to switch over the head pin and pulls be created through the
new locks, of which creates a trap. In the next phase half loop and transferred to the trap
body pins 2 and will be overthrown in a loop the next row. Why use the name of press
loop, precisely because, as the first time used the press to create traps for knitting
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machines, and the press as a loop device, and the newly named "Pres loop.
The principles of press is more developed in the book "Knitting Technology Part I" by
V. Gligorijevic.
On a machine with a flat needle bearing, for instance the warp knitting machines, we
use a straight cut and presses. Operation of such presses is shown in figure 19.6, c.
Cuts presses, as we see in the picture, placed opposite the needle 2, then they are
not pressed, and press the loop created. If the repeat according to samples on the next
line should get a trap on the second press pin, eg pin 3, it will turn the press along the
needle bearing needle for a single step. Turn presses indicate the mechanism of the
turning guide bar.
At the Cotton machines latest models (FLT Companies Bentley) were placed notched
presses, which are set for each press platinum needle. Press platinum pulled forward to
create a press edges of sampled drum, which is situated opposite the rear of the
machine each system knitting, or head. Roller width equal to the width of the needle
bearing.

19.3.3.2. Getting traps on machines with latch needles

We consider obtaining a trapping press method without complete closure. Schematic
of the process of creating such a loop is shown in figure19.7, and pin 2 is raised to the
extent required to obtain a new order, half loop remains in the language. Furthermore all
the pins down the Overlap and the hook needles 2 is half loop and snare. When creating
the next line all the pins to raise the level of total closure and pin 2 overthrow the newly
passed half loop and lock of the trap.
Schematic process of creating a loop in obtaining press traps the way without weft is
shown in figure19.7, b. In the process of interference pin 2 is lowered incomplete, so that
the half loop does not oust the head of needles. In carrying out the closure before the
next row of knitting needles on the body 2 exceeds half loop and press the castle, which
will be deposed for a new interchange.
Comparing these two ways of creating traps, we can derive the following conclusions.
Consumption of yarn to create traps with no way complete closure was higher by 10%,
as the needle goes down to the size of two full weft.
Individual choice of needle to obtain samples of the press is achieved without the
complete closure mode. In this case, the machine set the multi-channel mechanisms of
control by the regime of needles. One channel management consists of a chain: a
needle-pusher-moving radial closing wedge (steering)-transmission lever-box drum or
chain management. Not recommended to use mobile part of the launching, since this
leads to uneven structure of the loop.
Getting trap method can be recommended without weft knitting interlacement smooth
press ( rack, half) when required increasing the density of knitting.
As we see in figure 19.7, b 2 does not carry a needle and weft to create traps, then
the loops of yarn needles 1, 3 will move into the trap of needle 2 and the knitting density
increases. In these cases the corresponding part of the launching needles placed in the
position of the incomplete weft knitting in the overall process remains static.

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Figure 19.6. Schema of traps on a machine with a pointed needle


19.3.4. Analysis of interference footers exceeds
the basic interlacement

For all circular knitting machines, regardless of the type of basic interlacement, yarn
footer interferes with the national technological scheme. We shall examine the work
process of individual machines, which differs from machine to machine, depending on
the device where the device where the machine is equipped. The principle of
interference footer yarn remain the same, regardless of the perfection of the machine.
In the research process, we apply the graphical method of analysis.
By working drawings knitting system find the path of movement characteristic points
of needles and platinum in the deployment of the diameter of the cylinder on the
horizontal (Figure 19.8,a) and vertical (Figure 19.8,b) plane.
Needle draw the path of movement of the head taller point needles, axes, and the
end tab, end hooks, for platinum-platinum-point head by the nose.
We find each other move the needle and platinum; determine the character of their
interaction with yarns and loops of the previous order.
The process of knitting and executed press footer is divided into stages of creating
a loop on the needle even and odd machines. Both parts of the process are perfectly ide
ntical. Further analysis will be performed on only one group of needles.

Yarn of a new
order
Half loop
Press
Needle
perforated
Trap with an
elongated loop
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Figure 19.7. Schema of traps on machines with latch needles

For achieving partial laying of yarns, needles motion path is divided in sub-paragraph 1
(Figure 19.8,b). Part of needles for a yarn is raised to the height of incomplete closure
(Lines 1-2). Other pins in this paper do not include, the heads of passing at the guard
level (lines 1-4). Needle is lifted up upon contact with the window of needles and down,
covering the barb footer yarn that goes from the yarn guide V
f
(lines 3-4).
To ensure reliable laying footers yarn under the hook of the needle, it is necessary to
fix the position of the yarn under the needle hook at the point K (Figure19.8, a, b), whose
head reaches repellent level. in accordance with it, the needle must be lowered so that
point K is lower dewlap coming back platinum.
As seen in experiments at higher yarn tension footer is possible to raise the needle on
the part of the 4-5 guard taller lines. In this case the yarn is not yet fixed in platinum
higher point inside the contour of the head pin (point K). Then possible to move the yarn
to the side hooks. As a result of moving the yarn under the hook of the needle yarn OK
to rotate around a point O, removed from the pin.
Such a phenomenon can be excluded, if the additional systems erector set of needles
to cut the tip. In this case the horizontal surface of the pickup will be prevented from
raising the pins on the part of 4-5.
In systems where the top of the riser cut, which is to be taken footer yarn, on account
of that creates a horizontal surface, which keeps the needles b, is increased by raising
the tension of the yarn.
Needle head descends only to the disgusting level, then on that machine process
Yarn of a new
order
Half loop
Half loop
Elongated loop
(loop press)
Elongated loop (loop
press)
Yarn of a new
order
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takes place with minimum length of yarn loops footer, which is the lack of this kind of
knitting.
In point 4 (Figure 19.8, a) needle path of movement is unified. With that moment
began operations taking footer yarn behind the needle (line 4'-5'-6 ').
On the part of the head pins 4-5 start at the guard level.
Loop of the previous order, or half loop, are located below the hook needles. Footer
yarn, needles affected b, d, g, is distributed free to parts of the heads of needles c, e The
operation of taking the yarn behind the needles and yarn tension footer consists in the
fact that platinum is extracted animals were taken footer cross the road built head
needles c, e (line 4'-5'-6

). When lifting the needle nose of platinum reserves and footer


exceed half loop.
Platinum output size of the nose at the moment limits the size of the primary loop, as
in the mouth of platinum with a loop yarn footer previous row. With decreasing fineness
machines becomes larger and the length of the loop increases the size of the output of
platinum.
In paragraph 7 (Figure 19.8, b) all the pins are raised to the size of complete
closure. Footer yarn, laid on the needles, along with a half loop, then crossing the body
of the needle. To continue the process starts knitting basic interlacement and all the
pins, lowering the verge of launching lock needles (lines 8-9) get the hook needle core
yarn. In the process of interference loop new row on needles appropriate overthrow half
loop and trap footer yarn. At this begins to create a full line interlacement.
There, where the footer was laid yarn behind the needle, the loop overthrow the new
order is only half loops, yarn and footer to be distributed to see the interface of the
reverse interlacement.
In this way, the operation of choice of needles, laying the yarn on the needle behind
the needle, ending up on a machine with latch needles division in time and space as
opposed to machines with pointed needles. Operations division is one of the negative
factors of the process of interference footer exceed the basic interlacement.
As a result, the machine with latch needles during the laying footer yarn needle head
down below the bumper line, setting the stage for changing the permitted length of the
loop yarn footer
f
.
Based on what we can derive the following conclusions:

On machines with latch needles operation interference footer exceed the basic
interlacement share in time. This increases the slowness of the knitting system;
Placing basic and footer yarn needle is executed at the same time, during that time as
elements of the yarn in the knitting process different: the basic yarn is interwoven into
the loop yarn is throwing off the footer in the form of traps. Laying footer yarn under the
hook of the needle occurs indirect operation, occupying 44.1% of the overall slowness of
the system for knitting, it is necessary to keep order loop.
Laying footer yarn under the hook of the needle with the following transition to her body
caused by the necessity to repeat twice a duty cycle of movement of the needle: raising
and lowering the closure of the interference. This phenomenon is the main reason for
the increased sluggishness of the system for knitting and 2 times at the turn of the
derived footer interlacement.
The slowness of the system for knitting with knitting footer can reduce the technological
changes taking footer yarn on needles and pins to reduce stroke in the supplementary
system.
Size
f
can be increased by two times as opposed to the basic loop at the expense of
greater bending exceeds the dewlap footer platinum.

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20. Analysis friction on the yarn guiding cylinder
surfaces knitting machines

To calculate the yarn tension, which slides on the fixed cylindrical guide bars,
porcelain bud and another, usually apply Euler's formula. But as he noted. Adding the
standby switch current speed switch does not remain constant, and vary from zero
to some maximum, the size of which can significantly exceed the mean yarn knitting
machines. Even under high speed sliding centrifugal force, which appears in the yarn at
her bending over focusing cylindrical device, we can show significant results, expected
by Euler's formula.
Let at any given moment of time a yarn glides to the right with a speed
p
an
immobile cylindrical surface focusing buds 2 (Figure 20.1).Discard the thickness of the
yarn, we should stress its basic part,corresponding comprehensive port d . At the
close of this part appear tightening t and (t + dt).
Denote the current pressure of the yarns and the cylinder with p
g
.
Then elementary normal pressure acting on a separate part of the yarn, will be
.
dP = p
g
d.

when it appears friction
dF
tr
= p
g
d,

where - coefficient of friction, we accept the Constant.



Figure 19.8. The motion path of the characteristic points and platinum needle in
allocation the horizontal and vertical plane

Core system
M

Additional system
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If we neglect the mass of yarn, then in that case, besides the enumerated powers
allocated element d , will produce more centrifugal force and inertia of the C
i


dC
i
= ,
2
dm
R
p



where dm-separated mass of yarn length d ;
R-radius curved cylindrical focusing surface porcelain buds.

For its part, the masses of elementary

dm =
g
T d
t
3
10

,
where T
t
- longitudinal weight yarn;
g-acceleration of gravity.

Therefore,

dC
i
= .
10
3
2
d
g R
T
t p



Will choose the axis coordinates, as shown in figure 20.1. Being designed on these
axes, forces that act on the basic part of the yarn length d . Power projection to the
axis Ox

dt cos . 0
2
=
tr
dF
d




Figure 20.1. Yarn slippage at the fixed cylindrical
guiding surface

Power projection to the axis Oy
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dP + dC
i
t sin . 0
2
sin ) (
2
= +
d
dt t
d


that the angle 2 / d infinitely small size, we can accept that

cos 1 2 / d i sin . 2 / 2 / d d

Then, neglecting the size of dt d and taking, that d = d / 2, we get

dt p
g
d = 0.
and

p
g
d+ 0
10
3
2
=

d
R
t
d
g R
T
t p

,

or
=
d
dt
p
g,

and

p
g
+ .
10
3
2
R
t
g R
T
t p
=



Substituting values for p
g
, we get
p
g
= t/R .
10
3
2
g R
T
t p


Do variable substitution
.
10
3
2
|
|

\
|

=
g R
T
t
R d
dt
t p



z = t .
10
3
2
g R
T
t p

and dz = dt.

As a result we get
dz/d = /R(z)

or
dz/z = /R d.

By integrating the last term, we find

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, ln
R C
z
i

=

where - length encompassing arc.

As / R = - a comprehensive orientation angle of a cylindrical yarn, it is

z = C
i
e

.

Taking into account the values found for z, we get

e C g T t
i t p
=
3 2
10 /
or
t = C
i
e

+ . 10 /
3 2
g T
t p


that, at = 0 , t = t
0
, and setting the initial conditions in the above expression, we get

t
0
= C
i
+ , 10 /
3 2
g T
t p

where the

C
i
= t
0
. 10 /
3 2
g T
t p

Then

t = ( t
0
) 10 /
3 2
g T
t p
e

+ , 10 /
3 2
g T
t p

or
t = t
0
e

( ). 1 10 /
3 2


e g T
t p


If the speed v
p
cross slip by directing the device small and equal to zero, the previous
expression is reduced to Euler's formula
t = t
0
e

.

The penultimate expression shows that centrifugal inertia force, which appears in the
yarn in her slip at the fixed cylindrical surface focusing buds, reduced yarn tension, as a
member e

always greater than unity. It is characteristic that these forces of inertia are
independent of the diameter R curves directing surface. At considerable speed skating
and cross with multiple focusing porcelain bud influence of centrifugal force can become
very noticeable. This is one of the causes of oscillation yarn tension during its standby
adding machine operating authorities.

20.1. Analysis of moving the needle with tongue
in the process of closing

The process of knitting on knitting machines or phase begins with the closing
rate. This is the first and also the final stage. Closure begins lifting the needle in your
channel upward through riser locks the machine. Closing the ends with the arrival loops
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with needles on the body language needle (Figure 20.2, a). The process of closing a
difficult time, which is loop, taken back the forces of friction on the other side overcoming
the needle and holding the bow with their noses to the neighboring platinum needles,
placed at an angle toward the lower edge of r , - nose platinum.
Let N-normal force pressure half loop the rotating needle. Then the frictional force,
dragging loop up, F
tr
=
r
N, where
r
-reduced coefficient of friction between loop and
needles.
Inclination of the resultant R force N and F
tr
determine reduced friction angle
r = arctg r, which will be simultaneously and pitch angle loops the plane OO
repulsion when closing.
To find friction coefficient
tr
probation will be counted, that section of the needle in
the plane, on which the loop, has the shape of a circle (Figure 20.2, b). When the
resultant R is known, it will force acting on the areas discussed loops, be equal to 0.5
R. But the yarn and needle reduces the stress 0.5 R, the transfer along the yarn. For
taking into account this deduction would like to highlight a point angle and axis of the
yarn. Then we will have in place for point A strain

Q = 0,5 R e
-
,

where is the coefficient of friction for sliding along the cross-section pins, = 0.2. At
point B on the axis of this yarn tension is minimal

Q
min
= 0,5 R e
-0,5
= 0,36 R.

In this way, yarn, needles spreads over the body, will be subjected to bed with a
variable stress Q, lying in the range 0.36 Q R 0.5 R.

Isolate the yarn angle d its basic part. At the ends of that part will be added to the
forces Q and Q - dQ. dP pressure on the needle, separate elementary part of the cross
is found as a projection of the normal On exerted on it by force

dP = (Q-dQ)sin 0,5 d + Q sin 0,5 d = Q d.

The corresponding elemental pressure on the body pins dN = dP cos
r
. This gives the
elementary friction force, acting stretch needles,

dF
tr
= dN = Q cos
r
d.

If we take into account the symmetry of force added to the loop 0.5 R, collective
elementary friction, dF
tr
, will give

F
tr
= 2 . cos 5 , 0
, 0
0

d e R
r




Integration taking that R cos
r
= N, we find

F
tr
= N (1 e
-0,5
) =
r
N,

where is the reduced coefficient of friction

tr
= (1 e
-0,5
).
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For example, cotton yarn, for which = 0.2, we will have
r
= 0,27 and = 15
o
. From
the above we see that in the particular case of cotton half loop really closing slides on
the needle body at an angle about 15
o
to the plane repulsion.
Move the needle for the phase closure is necessary to indicate that, in order half loop,
which lies at the exit position at the level of repulsive OO plane, got off safely with the
tab on the body of the needle. It was experimentally found to be formulated conditions to
be met if the accepted output position (as shown in figure 20.2, b) the distance between
the end of the latch and the lower edge of - nose platinum remains after closing equal
to half the maximum length of 0.5-loops then move needle at the closing (as in figure
20.2, a) will be

z
1 =

2
+ 0,5 . max



Figure 20.2. Latch closure phase in the process of knitting needles

21. The geometry of the loop

Loop as the basic unit structure of the knitwear depends on several factors:

longitudinal weight yarn;
physical-mechanical characteristics of the yarn;
density knitting;
input yarn tension in the knitting process;
force the withdrawal of knitwear;
yarn friction between the working elements to create
loop;
Englishman F.T. Pierce was in 1947 set a model that based on the surface geometry of
the loop, where the assumed that the needle bends and platinum head loop equal, round
and clo se contact. Arches loop crossing the site tangentially, as in figure 21.1.
From the image length of yarn in the loop is equal to


, 2 4 S a D + + =

where diameter port D = 3d, a loop line height B = ( ) ( ) , 2 4
2
2
d d
or B =2d . 3
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Step loop for right-left-smooth knitwear A = 4d, where d diameter of the yarn. With
calculation of the length of S and the replacement of the equation for we get that =
16.66d.
This is actually a linear module m
L
loop, /d= m
L
= 16.66.
Fletcher and Roberts were corrected on the basis of this experiment the equation

= 2B + A +5.98 d.

To calculate the diameter of the yarn or d, = 2B + A = +4.56 D, under the microscope
are determined diameter d. Both authors are nevertheless perceived to oscillate in
diameter multiplier d in the range between 4.18 to 6.74.
Dalidovich for the model loop spatial took shape, By which the needle and platinum
(sinker) arches and circular loops are equal and transferred to the site by secant loop
(Figure 21.2, and b):

Parameter twists are taken:
length of yarn in the loop;
diameter of the cross as an independent input factor;
step loop and the loop line height;
the strength of the loop as a dependent factor input;

Inverse size of the density divided vertically and horizontally. These factors are
analogous to adjust twists ( number of rows and rows of 1m, and surface-density of
loops in 1m
2
). Diameter of the yarn is taken as a unchanging size, port diameter loops
are described as semi-circles, limited to the needle head loop and pages loop and share
a common horizontal axis and only adjusting the diameter of the yarn. Loops sites are
defined
as segments AC and BD.

21.1. Geometrical model of right-left
smooth weft knitwear

Recent studies defining the configuration of the basic elements of smooth twists have
not been satisfactory.
G. A. V. Leaf, A. Glackin and J. Chamberlain gave the definition of the geometry
configuration of the basic element of fabrics relaxed loops (Figure 21.3).
Both models are based on assumptions of various geometric models of loops.
One of the most reliable method is to divide the loop into four symmetric parts. As the
basis taken is three-dimensional repeating basic unit of quarters loop AB (Figure 21.4).
This rule, that the basic unit of symmetrical quarter of the loop, is not reliable especially
in the yarn with a number of turns. Geometric interpretation is difficult the three-
dimensional shape of knitted structure that increases the mathematical complexity.
W.J. Shanahan and R. Postle are based on symmetry-quarters felt that loops the loop
is in equilibrium under the influence of force F and moment M, which lies in the plane
twists and normal to the axis of the yarn (Figure 21.5, a). Assumed that the yarn in
continuous contact with the points I and I' in the direction normal to the plane of
twists. Size of force P and moment are derived from the state of minimum energy, but
the energy state must be involved and moving points of force and torque.
B. Hepworth and G.V. Leaf were to propose that the contact between the yarns in a
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smooth yarn is approximated with a system of contact between two points, without
friction and the forces acting normal to the axis of the yarn:

The forces P and P'(Figure 21.5, b) are derived on the assumption of symmetry fourth
loop.
Size of dimensionless size of P with a length of yarn in the quarter-loop, B the
bending rigidity of yarn, varied in the proper limits at the end of each segment of the
third quarter loop to create a space between the yarns.




Figure 21.1. Charles Sandres Peirce loop Model ideal form of loop



Figure 21.1. Pierce loop model of an ideal form of loop

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In figure 21.6 gives a geometric model with three projections of the central axis of the
yarn, which set R. Postle.
When setting the model started from the following assumptions:
that the loop is symmetrical, and to consider only a quarter of its ABC;
that there is no connection at point B interlaced loops;
the fourth loop ABC can be divided into two parts AB and BC;
to segment AB loop of the coil creates a constant diameter d with an angle and the
coil is parallel to the axis z. ;
the angle covered with helical segment AB figure 21.6, and, in the x-y plane is the
same corner of the (Figure 21.6, c) over which we determine the new position
overlapping point B;
to create a segment BC of the circle in the plane (Figure 21.6, b) making an angle with
the flat twists; the overlapping points between adjacent loops contact made between
the yarn twisted loop. Distance BB' is directed in the plane knitwear's.



Figure 21.3. The geometry of the basic configuration of elementary units in knitting
and Chamberlain-model geometry, b-Leaf and Glackin model

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Figure 21.4. Three quarters of the projection of symmetric AB loop designed
in three planes
Loop structure, derived from these assumptions, the equivalent series of circular segme
nts loops BCB associated with twisting the two yarns interference loop around one
another to create a series of helical segments BAB' figure 21.6, a).
For the resulting model were taken from two geometric models and .
These parameters determine the shape and dimensions.















Figure 21.5. Acting forces and moments in the right-left knitting
a-by Shanahan and the Post-in b-to Hepworth and Leaf in the contact points CP.

21.2. Elastic properties of smooth twists weft

Mesh as a textile product is characterized by great flexibility of the elasticity. During
the action of external forces Mesh considerably stretched in all directions, both in the
direction of the lines, and in the direction of the series.
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The relative maximum loop stretching in length (Fig. 21.7) is

, 100
max
B
B B
d

=
Width

, 100
max
A
A A

=
where A
max
-the maximum step-loop;
B
max
-maximum height line loop;
A -step-loops before stretching;
B-line height loops before stretching.
Length exceeds the maximum loop the loop is stretched
= 3d
t
+2B
max
, respectively, B= ,
2
3
t
d

where d
t
taken a theoretical diameter of the yarn.
The length of yarn in the loop at the maximum transverse strain loop is

. 3 , , 3
max max t t
d A odnosno A d = + =

In both equations we have taken that A
max
= 2B
max
.
In the longitudinal direction, the right-left-Mesh is 100% more elastic than in the
longitudinal direction.
Maximum tensile knitwear lengthwise in % is determined by the expression

I
max
=
( )
,
3 2
100
min max
s
d
d
B
B


where d
min
and d
s
-minimum and the actual diameter of the yarn.

21.2.1. Strength of right-left twists

Under the twists mean intensity of internal forces in the resistance against the knitting
action of external forces (the dynamometer) to try to disrupt its structure. It is the
resistance of cloth to stop the maximum possible load that could file a cloth, and that
when it does not interrupt or destroy it.
When knitting stretches in the direction of rows loaded the page loop. If we assume
that the site of vertical loop, then the width of the sample will be 2G
h
sites in the unit loop
density of knitted knitwear.
In figure 21.7 is given a relatively maximum loop stretching over the bridge.
In figure 21.8, and given the shape of the sample twists for experimental tests.
Directional strength in the direction of rows loops F
p.r
. and in the direction loops series
F
p.n
. determined with standard samples, which have a width of 100mm, and 50mm
(Figure 21.8, aid) power is applied to the narrower portion of the sample (50 mm or 25
mm). Knitwear is usually carried out tests with a working sample sizes 50x25 mm. This
form provides a fine sample middle test section, which allows the accurate determination
of breaking force and other characteristics. The direction of the volume is theoretically
given by the sum of the volume of yarn, which is in the transverse direction in
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the sample oppose termination.

F
( ) ( ) ( )
,
, , . . ., . v h v h p n p r p
k G F =
where Fp-used yarn strength (N);
q
v
= 2 (two fine yarn in a loop);
k
h
= 1 (one fine yarn in a loop).

21.2.2. Twisting right-left knitwear

As we have previously noted right-left-Mesh is twisted in the ranks of the edges from left
to right, and vice versa in rows from right to left.
The consequence of torsion twists the torsional stress that occur in the process of formi
ng loops.
F
( ) ( ) ( )
,
, , . . ., . v h v h p n p r p
k G F =

where Fp-used yarn strength (N);
q
v
= 2 (two fine yarn in a loop);
k
h
= 1 (one fine yarn in a loop).





Figure 21.6. Geometrical model of smooth weft knitted knitwear
three projections central axis of the yarn in the scale parameters and
a-Mesh with no load places pressure on the width and length, b-load in the direction
of the loop sequences, c-load in the direction of rows of loops.

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Figure 21.7. The relative maximum loop stretching over the bridge


.
Figure 21.8. Changes in structural parameters of smooth
loops weft knitwear

Theoretical calculation of the value is significantly larger than experimental values which
,are in the range 1 / 2 to 1 / 3 calculated.
Torsional forces F and F '(Figure 21.9.) have the same values and cause the rotation
twisting site loop.
Results loops are associated with platinum needle and arches loop so as to prevent the
rotating twisting, but it occurs because the force couple with the external torque can be
expressed as
M
s
= (a+2d)F,
and internal momentum
M
s
= (a+2d)F,

Assuming that the torsional forces are equal to F '= F, the total torque will be equal

M = M
s
+M
u
= 2d F,
where a-width of the loop;
M-total torque.

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Due to the twisting torque is twisting out of the loop plane twists leading to deformation
and twisting knitwears in which the rows and series are not in the vertical structure of
the knitwear but differ from that position; hour left, now right.




Figure 21.9. The shape of the experimental sample knitwear



Figure 21.9. Twisting right-left knitwear

21.2.3. Pressure force in the loop right-left twists

At one axial strain tensile knitwear, the load force between the adjacent loops are
increasing in the direction perpendicular to the elongation compared to the loops before
stretching (Figure 21.10, a). When the loops stretched in the direction of lines, under
pressure approaching the yarn (Figure 21.10, b) and thereby increase the force between
the braid yarn and slip them.
When the loop or knitting stretches in the direction of rows (Figure 21.10, c) yarns are
also approaching and there is an increase of force between the interlaced yarn and
further reduce the cross-slip. The loops are considerably deformed in width.

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Figure 21.11. Transmission of external forces in the yarn through the
needle and platinum head loop

21.2.4. Pressure force in the loop right-left twists

At one axial strain tensile knitwear, the load force between the adjacent loops are
increase in the direction perpendicular to the elongation compared to the loops before
stretching (Figure 21.10, a). When the loops stretched in the direction of the series,
under the pressure of the yarns approach (Figure 21.10, b) thus increasing the forces
between interpenetrating yarn and slip them.
When the loop or knitting stretches in the direction of rows (Figure 21.10,c)
Yarn is also approaching and there is an increase of force between the overlapping
yarn and a further reduction of cross-slip. The loops are considerably deformed in width.

21.2.5. Analysis of tensile strength with right-left twists

In many works of famous explorers W.J. Shanahan and R. Postle examined the trawl
lines of force in the direction of the loop. In the low-load twists coming to swell a
loop. Analysis of these changes primarily depends on the elastic properties of yarns and
its behavior in the knitting process.
In their work they assumed a two-dimensional configuration structure knitwear proposed
by D.L. Munden, R. Percent (Figure 21.11 and 21.12). Based on the proposed model are
examined and calculated load-curve elongation in the direction of the lines. External
force F is acting in the direction of rows and supported with a needle head loop BCD and
platinum head or bow B''C''D''(Figure 21.12).
In Figure 21.12 shows the effect of internal forces in the two- dimensional structure of
a relaxed loop twists. The overlapping points B and B 'force F acts parallel to the
direction of the lines. Each loop is composed from two different-shaped part of a pinhead
BCD and site loop B'AB Considering the parameter is given a formula for the needle
arc
X = X
B
+ R

(sin sin
o
)

where: ,
o
L

Z = Z
B
+ R

(cos-cos
o
),

Where (X
B
, Z
B
)- coordinates of points B
pr
;
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0
overlapping angle
o
,
- the angle between the diameter of ports and Z axis
o
,
R

- diameter of ports,

mm
Bending moment at the point of B
pr
is FX
B
, ie R = ,
B
pr
FX
B

where R-diameter ports pinhead BCD;
B
pr
-bending rigidity of yarn.

Page B'AB loop creates an elastic part of the inflection point B, the force F acting on
positive direction of Z axis, and point B 'force acts in the opposite direction.
The resulting form is given by
dM/ds

= Fsin,

where M-bending moment;
-angle to the Z axis tangent to the curve at any point;
s-length arc from A to B'AB.
Bending moment is given by
M = B
pr ,
ds
d


Where B
pr
-bending rigidity of yarn;
d/ds-curvature curve at any point in the loop.


Figure 21.10. Pressure force between the yarn and strain loop
the right-left smooth yarn

a- Mesh with no load places pressure on the width and length, b-load in the direction
of lines forming loops with the loop height c-load in the direction of rows of loops, with
forming across.

21.2.6. Biaxial load of right-left twists

When knitting simultaneously stretched in the direction of rows and rows loop (biaxial
load) curved elements move to touch the loop points are corrected, and Mesh will be
deformed in a curved configuration of the loop in the equivalent structure of the
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loop. Figure 21.13 is a simple model that represents the geometry of the structure of the
knitwear.
Let the length of yarn in the loop (Figure 21.14) en-height between the rows of loops,
a step loop, d-diameter of the yarn, cross slope (variable length divided by / 2 - d).
Addition of individual segments in the loop will get half the length of yarn in the loop with
the expression
/2 = A/2 + h/sin + d.

if the slope of the loop eliminated, we get
A/2 + . 1
'
' 2
1
2
'
=
|

\
|

h
d
h


This expression gives the relationship between the length of yarn in the loop , h the
height of rows loop, the loop of steps A and the yarn diameter d.
Each touch point in knitting the state of deformation of the yarn. After exercise, the
same fabric stretches in both directions, ie in the direction of rows and rows. Some
common points describing the geometry of knit wears, will depend primarily on the size
of the applied load. How to be elongated in both directions Mesh depends on the
diameter of the yarn, the yarn length in the loop, ie the density of the knitting.
In stretch knitwear in the direction of rows (Figure 21.15) minimum height between the
rows is :
A
max
= 2(1- 4,62d).

Maximum step between the lines: A'max = 2 (1 - 4.62 d ').
When the maximum elongation in the direction of the loop sequences (Figure 21.16)
minimum step between the lines A
min
= 8d

., Or h'
max
= 1-4d'.


Figure 21.12. The effects of internal forces in the loop

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Figure 21:13. A mathematical model of the Figure 21:14. Bi axially
right twists the biaxial load may basic element loop load



Figure 21:15. Maximum elongation in the direction of rows of yarn loops

If we take the yarn tension F
p
, the load switch in the direction of rows and rows S
n
and
S
r
, we get an expression of a particular relationship between the load and geometry

S
n
/S
r
= .
'
' 2
1 1
'
' 2
1 '
2
2
|

\
|

|

\
|

h
d
h
d
h


Figure 21:16. Maximum elongation twists in the direction
of the loop sequences

The most widely used geometric model of the loop interlacem
ent the smooth geometric model of the ideal yarn or
thread, Isuggested Chamberlain and F. Pierce (Figure 21.17 and
21.18).
Model of Chamberlain (Figure 21.17) starts with an analysis of maximum density knitwe
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ar, in which the needle and the platinum loop bows touch. This impossible to
obtain, using some process of creating a loop and frame knitting machines.
Let MN = 4, A
p
= 4d, where d is the diameter of cross-medium, we find the triangle
MON
B
p
= ( ) ( ) d d d 3 2 2 4
2 2
= + .

The length of yarn in the loop as the sum of port C'DE, AB', GF' and B'C' and E'F',
with projections of arcs B'C' and E'F' accept the intercept


( ) ( ) . 13 2 3 3 2 2 1,5d 2
2
2
d d d + = + + =


The length of yarn in the loop for this model is expressed only through the thickness
of the yarn: = 16.63 d, where m is the module loop.
The ratio of density

C = B/A = 2 . 865 , 0 2 / 3 4 / 3 = = d d























Figure 21.17. Geometric model of a smooth loop Figure 21:18. Geometric model of the
with a maximum density at Chamberlain smooth interlacement by Pierce loop

The derived ratio of density of C = 0.865 with accepting the hypothesis that resembles
the shape of the loop for its spread to any length on any smooth yarn knitwear
F. Pierce, the geometric model of the loop, which is shown in 21.18, also starts from
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the hypothesis of a loop similar to any of its calculated length, that in any smooth
knitwear yarn loop parameters
B = B
p
+ bd; A = A
p
+ 2ad; , + =
p

where B
p
, A
p
,
p
- the appropriate amount of order loop, loop step, the length of yarn in
a loop knitwear for maximum density, b, a coefficients, s of growth parameters B and A
knitear expressed by diameter yarn or thread.
By accepting that the

, 2 2 bd ad + =


F. Pierce leads to the formula length in the loop yarn


, 49 , 5 2 d B A + + =


Which practically does not differ from the proposed formula much earlier prof. A.S.
Dalidovich.
Taking into account the formula Pierce ratio of density for model F. Pierce will be

C = x / y = 0.5.
























Figure 21.19. Geometric model of a smooth loop Figure 21.20. Geometric model
knitwear in and Lif Glazkin smooth knitwear the Korlinski

In figure 21:19 shows the geometric model of the loop, suggested by G. Lifa and A.
Glazkina, which consists of a transition to the second round. The length of yarn in the
loop for such a model is determined by the formula
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, 4 R =


where R- the radius of the circle, created loops smooth interlacement;
tilt - swivel radius vector R.

The above formula shows no correlation parameters knitwears d A B , , , , are important
for practical application, thus determining the angle of the proposed model is very is
difficult. Lifa -loop model developed by V.Glazkin Korlinski (Figure 21.20). Korlinski
accepts that the
A = 4r-2d, B = 2rsin ,

where r-radius needle and platinum loop port;
d-average diameter of the yarn;


angle between the horizontal and intercept, linking centers circles needle
and platinum arches loop, passing through the point of linking these circuits.

cos . 4 / 2 / 5 , 0 r A r A = =

Substituting values for A in the penultimate equation, we get

cos [ ]. / 2 1 / 1 A d + = .
The ratio of density is determined by the formula
C = 0,5 tg ,

A length of yarn in the loop by the formula

). 5 , 0 )( 2 ( ) 5 , 0 ( 4 + + = + = d A r

The above formula gives the mutual relationship among the parameters of
knitwear , , , , d A B and its practical application is also difficult to determine the angle
,

complexity V. Korlinski proposed experimental determination of the dependence
of coefficient of longitudinal fullness twists horizontally

E
h
= d/A.

The graph (Figure 21.21) shows the ratio of the curve changes density for a smooth knit
made from polyamide or complex in Depending on the coefficient of longitudinal fullness
twists horizontally Eh, determined by various geometrical models of knitwears and
experimentally:

1-the model of Chamberlain
2-modeled Dalidovich;
3-in formula The ratio of density;
4-modeled Pierce;
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5-per model Korlinski;
6-experimentally.

The graph (Figure 21.22) shows the experimental value of coefficient relationship of
density with various lengths of yarn loops for smooth interlacement made of cotton and
viscose yarn (curve 1), wool (curve 2) and or polyamide (curve 3)

From comparisons of the results shown below:

experimental value of the ratio of density, characterized by a loop of yarn,
it is very different from the calculated values obdained using different
geometrical mo dels of knitwear;
nature of the change a loop not only different from various polymer
materials us ed for making cloth, but also significantly depends on the
size of the loop, thick yarn, at the time as the geometric models by
accepting the principle of similarity of the loop for various polymer
materials and the size of the loop;
smallest change of shape loops of smooth knitwear, depending on its size
is characteristic of elastic textile material, for example, wool;
considered geometric models structure twists, if they do not fully inclu-de
all the factors, determine the shape of the loop of real cloth, for each
concrete case must be explicit;
practical experiments and multi-year practice shows, the simplest,universal
and full implementation of the budgets with a lot of practice prescribed
accuracy precision models appear smooth twists, by A.S. Dalidovich.The
values of the length of yarn in the loop, obtained at a certain (determined
experimentally) certain (determined experimentally) parameters A,
B, guarantee results, fully acceptable for engineering design twists.


















Figure 21.21. The ratio of density dependence Figure 21.22. Value ratio of density
of the coeficient longitudinal fullness depending on the value exceeds the
horizontally smooth knitwear interlacement length of the loop


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21.2.7. Strength of knitwear

Yarn strength determines the value of breaking load, compared to a single
loop. Breaking strain can be calculated using the geometric model of expanded
knitwears.
In general form breaking strain to uni axial tension knitwear can be determined by the
formula
P
o
= ( ) , cos 0375 , 0 1
1

n
i
i j
N q

where q - mean breaking load of yarn at the standard fixing the length (500mm) in N;

N
j
-the coefficient of inequality for a given strength yarn;
coefficient, which takes into account the change in yarn strength at low
tightening length;
coefficient, which takes the loss of yarn strength and testing of its loop;

n-number of yarns in the loop, which oppose the break on being extended;
cos
i
orientation degree of cross sections are involved in termination.
In the case of spatial distribution of cross sections in the field of forces in tension

, / cos
2 2 2
z y x z i
h h h h + + =
where h
z
- maximum elongation loop on computational part twists in mm;
h
x
- projection parts cross the plane of the sample, contrary to stretch stress;
h
y
- projection parts cross the plane normal to the plane of the tested knit
wears. Number of sections of the yarn, which is subject to breaking, is determined in the
analysis of the geometric model twists.
Breaking load for the flat twists to uniaxial tension in N, the
P
o
=

=
m
i
p
P
1
,

where m - number of loops in a working width of the test plane or surface;
P
p
- breaking strain, which comes to one loop in N;
coefficient of inequality break the loop in the sample, which depends on
the test, shape, size, table width and length of fixation test surface. For standard
samples (rectangular) , 6 , 8 9 , 0 = for samples in the form of double blades tensile
knitwear lengthwise . 1 =
M = a
p
/A,

being extended across the width
m = a
p
/B,

where a
p
-width test area in mm;
A, B - corresponding loop step loop and line height in mm.


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21.2.8. Breaking strain of smooth knitwear
being extended in length

Number of pieces of yarn, who are opposed to termination, and their size projections
possible to determine the geometric model of a smooth knit, stretched in length (as
shown in figure 21.23).
Size of projections, in terms of the conditional diameter of the yarn length and height
loops B
max
order, for each of the yarns are shown in table 21.2.

Taking data from tables and formulas for the spatial arrangement of parts go into the
force field being extended will get
cos
( ) ( )
. 2 / cos cos
2
max
2
max
B d B
u e de bc
+ = =

Express the size B
max
over the length of yarn in the loop by the formula previously given
and the appropriate transformation, we get

( ) ( ) . 3 8 / 3 cos
2 2
u u u e
d d d + =


Figure 21:23. Geometrical model of
expanded smooth knitwear along
the length

The values of breaking load, related to a single loop
stretched smooth twists, taking into account the general
formula for breaking strain, we get

P
o(e)
= 2 ( ) . cos 375 , 0 1
e j
N q

From these formulas it is
obvious that for smooth knitting from the yarn with
a high breaking q strain and N
j
, , , values
, obtained during his questioning, breaking
strain increases with the length of yarn in the loop.

Table 21.1. Size of projection parts cross the smooth fabric expanded in lengt

The projection parts cross Parts yarn
h
x


d
u
d
u

h
y
d
u
d
u

h
z
B
max
B
max



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21.2.9. Breaking strain smooth knitwear
being extended across the width

Number of pieces of yarn, who are opposed to termination, and the size of their
projections being extended knitwear width is determined from their geometric model
(Figure 21.24).
Projection parts cross the size, in terms of the conditional diameter of its length, and
loop step A, shown below.

Projection parts cross the parts move bc

h
x
0
h
y
d
u

h
z
A
max
/ 2



Figure 21.4. Geometrical model of expanded smooth knitwear width

Taking data, set up and the formula for the spatial arrangement of parts go into the force
field being extended, we will

cos A

=
max
/ . 4
2
max
2
A d
u
+

If the size of A
max
express the length of yarn through the loop and executed after the
conversion formulas for spatial distribution of cross sections will be given

cos ( ) . 4 / 3
2
max
2
A d d
u u
+ =

Breaking load, which refers to a single loop stretched across the width knitwear,
determined by the formula

( )
( )
2
max
2
4 / 0357 , 0 A d N q P
u j o
+ = .

22. The connection between the length of yarn in the loop, step
loop, the loop line height and thickness of the yarn in left-right
base knit

The connection between the geometrical characteristics of the structure of the (right-right
interlacement 1 +1) A, B, d and yarn length in the loop in steady state can be performed
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using its geometrical model, shown in figure 22.1. In construction of the model we
assume that the head loop touch.
The length of yarn in the loop Rib 1+1 can be expressed by the sum of arcs and slots:

. FG EF CDE BC AB + + + + =

Arc AB = FG, we can assume that the same quarter of the volume with a radius
r = (M-d)/2 where M-thick knitwear, d-average diameter of the yarn.

AB = FG = (M-d)/4; BC = EF = B;

CDE = R; R = (A-d); CDE = /2(A-d).

Substituting the values of ports and slots in the formula for the length of yarn in the
loop with the sum of the arches and the slots, we get

= 1,57A+2B+1,57M- d.

When values of the width of a right-right base interlacement formula takes the form
M d 4

= 1,57A+2B+ d.

The resulting formula length of yarn in the loop does not differ from the formula for the
length of yarn in the loop of smooth interlacement (right-left-smooth).
The ratio of density C can be determined by a formula which we have already raised
the aspirations of the loop to the steady state occupy the maximum area. When
calculating the ratio of density should be taken into account, the projected length of yarn
in the loop on the flat knitwear is determined by three summand, as in the last formula,
without the participation of length, which determine the thickness of Rib M.
Then
C = B/A = x/y = /4 = 0,785.

From the given formula we see that the ratio of density in the Rib appears constant
regardless of the length of yarn in the loop and we can accept also the same as for the
smooth twists.
In reality, a loop of yarn knitting any changes depending on the length of yarn in the
loop, its thickness and properties, with a change in loop shape changes and the
coefficient C. In practice, the standard cloth ratio of density changes in a wide range. For
the bleached knitwear interlacement right-right 1 +1 of cotton in the module loop m = 21-
22, C = 0.69 to 0.865, the right-right base interlacement 2+2 for m = 22-23, C = 0.62 to
0.69 . For knitwear of elastic threads (elastic) for m = 23-24, C = 0.75 to 0.8. The
knitwear interlacement right-right 1+1, intended for upper garments, for m = 21-23, C =
0.6 to 0.66.
Extensibility. Elasticity or stretch interlacement Rib also determined, as in the
smooth interlacement.
The values of Amax, B
max
, S
max
for expanded Rib may be obtained from the analysis
of its corresponding geometric model (Figure 22.1). Comparing the model expanded to a
length of a right-right base (Figure 22.2,a) and smooth (Figure 22.3), we can be assured
that B
max
file for a Rib may also be performed accurately, and to smooth interlacement:
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B
max
= ( ( ) . 2 / 3
u
d
Analogously, comparing the model of smooth and Rib interlacement will get

, 3
max u
d A =


For right-right base
A
s max
= 2 ;

max
A
A
s max
= 2( ). 3
u
d

Accordingly, A
max
in the Rib to two times higher, than in a smooth
interlacement. From the comparison model Rib and smooth interlacement, also
expanded in length and width, we get

( ) . 8 /
2
max
max
u p p
d S B A = = |

\
|

But for a right-right base (22.2, c) , 5 , 0

A A = dann

S
max
= (A
p
B
p
)
max
= ( ) . 4 /
2
u
d

Tensile right-right base complex feedback from the width of the consideration shall be
given to the same degree of stretch all its loops: how to face and on the reverse.
Accordingly, we will have to

,
1
1

max max
|

\
|
=
R
A A
s p

As
, 3

max u p
d A =

Then
( ) ( ), / 1 1 / 3
max u s
R d A =

where the R

repeat in the breadth of the right-right knitwears base .



From here follows, that the increase in the breadth of the Rib feedback from R

its
maximum size loop steps is reduced. For example, 1+1 for a Rib on the formula shows
that we have already made, the right-right base (Rib) will be 2 +2

( ), 3 33 , 1
max u s
d A =
Right-right base (Rib) 3 +3
A
s max
=1,2( ). 3
u
d
Exactly the
( ) . 8 /
2
max
max u p p
d B A S = |

\
|
=
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Substituting values
max p
A

p
A , we get






Figure 22.1.Geometric model Rib interlacement 1+1



Figure 22.2. Dimensional model of expanded Rib interlacement cloth

( ) ( ) ( )
2
max
3 / 8 1 1/ .
p p u
A B d R =
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To determine the tensile ductility characteristics established by the general formulas
using the formula for the length of yarn in the loop of the Rib parameters A, B, S in the
equilibrium state will be
A = ( ) ; / d ( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) ( ) . 4 / AB S ; 4 / d - B ; / 1 1 / d - A
2
d R

= = =

Substituting these values in the formulas we will find appropriate in ductility characteri
stics of the Rib in length, width and also the length and breadth.
From these formulas we see that the breaking elongation of the Rib in length occurs
exactly as the smooth knitwear. A stretchable in both the breadth and width and length
is maximum value at minimum values feedback from the R

Rib in width, that is Rib 1+1.



Strength of the knitwear. Breaking tensile load Rib knit cloth in comparison to a
single loop, determined by the well-known general formula for uniaxial stretch
fabric. Number of sections of the yarn in the loop opposes the breakup, and their size is
determined from the geometric projection model expanded to break the Rib (as in figure
22.2).
Comparing the geometric model of expanded Rib knitwear knit and a smooth, we can
easily make sure that the number of pieces of yarn, which opposes the termination of
each loop of the Rib, and also the size of their projections being extended in length and
width also the same as with a smooth cloth. Accordingly, the breaking load, which refers
to a single loop of smooth and Rib twists, as is determined by formulas already given,
and the degree of orientation of cross sections, which are opposed to termination of its
length and width, determined in accordance with the formulas already given.
If we take the repeat to interlacement Rib width R

= 1, breaking strain of the Rib


being extended in length, compared to one repeat, amount to P
oR
= P
o
R

.


22.1. Stretching knitwear with stretch yarn participation

Stretching a smooth cloth, obtained from tensile textile yarn, usually greater than derived
theoretically without the participation of stretch yarn or thread.
Taking into account the stretching of the yarn in loops twists during its deformation
previously given formulas take the following form

( ) [ ] ; 2 / 3 01 , 0 1
max u
d B + = ( ) ; 3 01 , 0 1
max u
d A + =
( ) [ ] , 8 / 01 , 0 1
2
max u
d S + =

where - the breaking-strain at the standard fixing the length (500mm);
, coefficients, which take into account the change in elongation of yarn
bending and fixing length:

; /
o p
= , /
o
=
where
0
and
p
the size relative to the breaking elongation yarns, determined by
examining the appropriate length of the loop and fixing the length of 5mm *.

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In the case of determining the size
0
and
p
of the test loop and fixing (putting the
clamps) length of 15 mm coefficient , can be replaced by a single coefficient

. /
p
=

Taking into account the above uniaxial and biaxial appropriate boundary stretching of
smooth twists in%, determined by formulas


( ) [ ]
; 100 1
3 01 , 0 1 2
(

+
=
d
d
u
d


( ) [ ]
; 100 1
3 01 , 0 1
(

+
=
d
d
u



( ) [ ]
( )
. 100
2
01 , 0 1
2
2
.
(
(

+
=
d
d
u
o d



From here we see that for smooth knitting from tensile yarn and threads, which have
practical application for making textile products, uniaxial tension is increased by
increasing the length of the loop yarn and the yarn elongation. Biaxial elongation smooth
knitwear is decreased with increasing length of yarn in their loops and increases with
increasing stretch yarn.


22.1.1. Surface density knitwear

Surface density knitwear can be determined, a certain length of yarn L consumed in
1m
2
twists, and longitudinal mass of yarn T
t
.

Yarn length L in mm, consumed in 1m
2
twists, e can determine the length of the
product yarn in one loop in mm, the number of loops n:

L = n/1000.

Number of loops necessary 1m
2
can be found through the product density G
h

horizontally and vertically G
v
density per unit length of 10 cm

n = 100 G
h
G
v
.

Appropriate substitution we get
L = 10-1 G
h
G v.
Surface density Q twists in gr/m
2
, the yarn L in m, at the appropriate longitudinal
weight yarn T
t
, is determined by the formula

Q = LT
t
= . 10
10000
4
t v h
t v h
T G G
T G G


=

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Surface density of knitwears, with some sizes , , , ,
t
iT B A calculated by the formula

Q = ). /(AB T
t


22.2. Geometric characteristics of the structure knitwear

Yarns, which are formed from loops of yarn, is characterized by obesity. We distinguish
between the thickness of the yarn in the free state and a very compacted. In the first
case the thickness of the yarn diameter equate the chart, in the second-to conditional
diameter.
The yarn(Figure 22.3.) Thickness of complex threads (yarn) in different sections of the
loop is not equal. Normal cross-section in various parts of the form, similar ellipses,
whose axes in a given part of the loop corresponds to the actual sizes d
a
to the d
b
.

The size of the yarn in knitting there are variables. Their changes depend on the type
and properties of complex yarns, applied in making cloth, changing the structure of
knitted knitwear, method of aging, the size of the loop.
*In order to simplify the experimental determination of the size of the test loop and
fixing the length of 15 mm plugs; with some distribution function relative breaking
elongation depending on the length of fixation is possible to determine the elongation
yarns intercept any size.
For example, the high density complex yarn, and also the complex yarn inclination
degree flattened twist yarn in loops (the degree of deviation from the cross-section of the
circle) is larger than the yarns with high twist, the yarn from the complex yarn degree
assembled yarn in loops is negligible and ignore him. Accordingly, for knitted knitwear,
made from complex yarn given species, changes shape depending on the yarn diameter
change sheet cloth, and also his way of aging (calendering, pressing, thermal fixing).

In addition to knitting yarn from high volume twist angle to max size d
a max
can not
expeed the size, calculated by a formula calculation of the diameter, a size d
b min
may
be less than calculated by the formula for conditional diameter of yarn, if the
performance of cross-section formula for a circle accept .
As shown by research, the mutual relationship between the diameter d
a
and cross the
d
b
in a different state of fabric has a complex character, and this within a certain burden
of a change in the size of yarn, for example d
a
that, still does not entail a change of a
different size d
b
.
With a view to facilitating the study and forecasting features twists its complex
structure is a geometric model, which with various degrees of approximating the actual
structure of the knitwear and the shape of its loop, where the geometric model of the
thickness of the yarn accepted to be equal in all parts of the loop, and cross sectional
shape accept for circle.
In figure 22.4 shows the geometric model of the smooth knitwear interlacement, which
models the actual structure of this knitwear, shown in figure 22.3,a.
The geometric models of the structure of knitwear thickness of the yarn is average
and is characterized by the middle of him impressive anyone yarn d.
The mean thickness of the yarn in the geometric model is determined differently. In
one case, at first we determine the size of the yarn to the d
a max
and d
b min
(as in figure
22.3, a).
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At the same time, recognize that the max and min for db axis of an ellipse d
a max
and
d
b min
, find areas of their intersection determines S
e
:

S
e
= 0,25 d
a max
d
b min
.

By equating this expression with the area round of S
k
, we calculate a mean diameter
of the yarn:

S
e
= S
k
; 0,25 d
a max
d
b min
= 0,25
2
;

In another case in knitting measure per line loop order size (-q/4 of the two yarns in
the base part of the loop (figure 22.3, b). Medium thickness yarn in this case is
calculated by the formula

d = ( ) . 2 /
min max b a
d d +

From the above it follows that the determination of the mean diameter of yarns in its
geometrical model should measure the structural elements of the instrumental twists or
her section, which can be very difficult.
To calculate the approximate average thickness of the yarn in the knitwear model can
be determined by the formula

d ( ) . 2 /
u r
d d +

23. Geometrical model to the left
of the left knitwear

The simplest structure of the left-left knitwears 1+1 a repeat by the width of the R

=
1, height R
h
= 2 . Knitwear 2+2 has repeat by the width 1 , height-4, two rows of loops on
the face are interspersed with two rows of loops on the reverse.. In the left- 3+2 knitwear
left, the repeat width is an array, 5 rows in height, and so on. Elastic forces in the yarn
wound in a loop, the more difficult to correct bent parts of the yarn. Under the action of
forces in the neighboring contact spots (border) rows of loops, they tend to correct bent
parts of the yarn. Under the influence these forces in places of contact of adjacent rows
appear loops force reactions of P (Figure 23.1). Moment of two rolls forces PP loop,
as shown in the image and its base inclination to the vertical by angle . As result of
base tilt base loop the loop centers in neighboring loops rows will be moved along the
thickness of cloth the size of a, where tg = a/B. where the B-loop row height in mm.

The degree of slope adjacent rows loops left-left knitting increases with increasing
force of elasticity in the yarn, thick yarn and reduce module loop.
It is easy to see that in equilibrium the left- left knitwear is reduced by length due to the
slope loops rows; platinum needle and bends in the loops each side are pulled out
(moving) forward, and parts loops page create a dent, which results in an impression,
that only consists knitwear the left loop. In other words, by removing the cloth with
machine, the left rows cover right rows, so that with both the twists we just left the
ranks. When couch knitwear by rows we can see clearly alternating left and right rows of
loops.
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23.1. The length of yarn in the loop, the characteristics
of design knitwear vertically and horizontally


The connection between the length of yarn in a loop, yarn thickness and geometric
characteristics of the structure of A, B, M in the equilibrium state of a left-left knitwear
can be determined using the geometric model (Figure 23.1).
The projection length of yarn in the loop on the vertical plane can be ex pressed as
the sum of arcs and slots:

. FG EF CDE BC AB + + + + =

By accepting the sum of arcs AB + CDE + FG for a circle with a diameter 2R and the
expression of a diameter of a circle, as well as smooth knitwear, through steps A and
loop yarns mean diameter d, we get

2R = (0.5 + A d).

Cuttings BC and EF appear as projections of pages and loops are equal to each
other. Taking into account the slope projection site loop by loop length trench

BC = EF = B/sin,

where B is the row-height loop;
-tilt angle of projection site loop to the length of row loop.

Taking into account the slope site loop in cephalometric projection of the left- left
knitwear page size loops will be

B=
( )
,
cos sin 90 sin sin
B EF
=



where - the pitch angle -base loop in the plane of knitwear.

Then

( ) .
cos sin
2 57 , 1
cos sin
2 5 , 0 d
B
A
B
d A

+ = + + =


From the general formula for the density ratio of C = x / y will be

C = . cos sin 785 , 0 4 / cos sin =

From this formula follows that the ratio of density of a left-left knitwear less than 0.785, if
the value sin cos and always less than unity. With the reduction of loop modules m
values of thickness ratio is also reduced, since the reduced module loop angle
decreases, and the angle increases.
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Figure 22.3. Structure smooth knitwear : a reverse-b-face



Figure 22.4. Geometrical model of Figure 22.4. Geometric model of the
smooth knitwear left-left knitwear

It is necessary to note, that given a formula of length in the loop yarn is suitable for
practical calculations, or application, if it includes the size of the angles and that very
difficult to determine from a sample of cloth. With the aim of simplifying the formulas for
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the length of yarn in the loop for left-left knitwear page size loop B accept the diagonal of
a parallelepiped with the measured B, BB '= FF' = d,
a 2d.
Then
B= ( ) , 2
2 2 2
d d B +

a previous formula for the length of yarn in a loop taking shape
. 5 2 57 , 1
2 2
d d B A + + =

Ductility. Ductility or stretching, as the term is commonly used, left-left knitwear is
determined by the general formulas. The values of A
max
, B
max
, S
max
for left-left knitwear
are also the same as for smooth right and left knitwear and are calculated using the
known formulas.

Parameters A, B, A left-left knitwear in the equilibrium state for his geometrical
model, described in the penultimate formula, can be calculated by the general formulas
already given.
;

d
A

=

B =
4
d
; sin cos S = BA =
( )
. cos sin
4
2

d


Elongation at break knitwear in length, width and also the length and width given by the
following formulas:

=
d

( )
( )
; 1
cos sin
3 2
(

d
d
u


( )
; 1
3
(

=
d
d
u


( )
( )
. 1
cos sin 2
2
2
.
(
(

d
d
u
d



Comparing formulas ductility knitwear smooth and left-left, we can easily make sure that
the ductility in width, left-left knitwear and ordinary smooth right-left equivalent, and
stretchable lengthwise and general biaxial stretching of the left side to knitwear is greater
than that of smooth knitwear If the product of sin cos is less than unity.

For knitwear left-left, which has the same extension in length and width, as follows by
comparing the formulas must be to cope with the conditions that 2/ sin cos = , or
sin cos = 2/ = 0,63.

These conditions can easily meet the knitwear the module loop m = 22-23.
Also or nearly equal, the left-left-stretchable knitwear in length and width of the possibility
of its use in making suits, shawls, scarves and so on.

Breaking strain. For knitwear left-left breaking strain, which refers to a single loop is
determined by the general formulas. Number of pieces of yarn, who are opposed
to termination, file accepted their projections of a left-left knitwear also is the same as for
the smooth knitwear. Accordingly, the breaking strain of the left side to knitwear in
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length and width, which refers to a single loop, and also in the examination area is also,
as in the smooth right-left knitwear and interlacement.

Taking into account that the density ratio of C to the left-left knitwear much smaller
than in the smooth knitwear, we can safely assume that the values of C 0.5 breaking
strain of the left knitwear left over the bridge at break its surface as .

Surface density. As already stated, the left-left knitwear at a certain length of yarn in
the loop, the density of horizontally and vertically, yarn thickness, surface density is
calculated the same as for smooth rightleft knitwear. In this case, when calculating the
density of vertically must take into account all the rows loop, overthrown in the face
and reverse side.


24. Derived smooth interlacement

Derived call this smooth weave, in which the adjacent loops of a series of main
(primary) interlacement deployed one, two or several series of the second loop
interlacement. The creation of major new indeterminate interlacement a series of
advantages due to their connection to two or more interlacement with positive features.
As in most major parts of the interlacement of binding loop sequences has, to the
deployment of additional series of loops to create derivative interlacement the main,
derived loop interlacement must have elongated connecting parts. As a result derived
interlacement master the flexibility of a smaller width. Therefore, they are less unravel
the cease-yarn in the loop. This explains the features of their structure:

at break yarn in loops of one main loop interlacement other major interlacement
prevent further unraveling the loop.

One of the simplest derivative weft interlacement is smooth interlacement derived
(Figure 24.1).
It is the joining of two smooth interlacement, and as such is called a double smooth
interlacement.
The basic advantage derived smooth interlacement its increased resistance to
unraveling at break yarn in loops., Which is especially important for hosiery, sportswear
and other products, particularly for wear in a strained state.
Resilience built interlacement all over the bridge is less flexible than the main
interlacement. Less stretchable width is explained by the presence of horizontal rows,
which are arranged on the reverse side of the interlacement.
Strength in width by almost twice the strength of the single-width smooth
interlacement. This is explained by the presence of ties, which increase the resistance
of the sample at break during his questioning. Its length is almost the same volume as
smooth and simple interlacement.
As the figure shows the sequences of loop 1 single, smooth interlacement sorted
through a series of loops with two other smooth interlacement. Loop first and second
smooth interlacement, obtained from various yarns 3 and 4, the horizontal rows through
a loop sequence in triangular arrangement. Rear of each loop on the reverse
connecting parts are arranged yarns, which are roughly equal to one-step loop.
Negative features of the structure and exterior of the implemented the smooth
interlacement appear in this, as in the basic parts of the loop interlacement knitwear
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fitting to each other and have no connecting parts.

24.1. The length of yarn in the loop, the coefficient of relationship
density derived smooth Interlacement

The length of yarn in the loop of smooth interlacement greater than the length of yarn
in the loop base smooth (right-left) interlacement about the length of interface (floating),
equal to two smooth steps loop A.

i.g
=
g
+A.

Using the geometric model of the base will get smooth interlacement


i.g
= 1,57 A+2B+d+A = 2,57A+2B+d.

For derived smooth interlacement (Figure 23.3) to report interlacement width R


general formula exceeds the length of the loop will be

i.g
= A(1,57+R
h
-1)+2B+d.

The ratio of density of smooth interlacement built using its mathematical model from
the
previous equation and the hypothesis of the maximum surface loops in the equilibrium
outcome of the general formula derived

C = x/y = (1,57+R

-1)/2.

For two smooth (R

= 2) C = 1.285; for three smooth (R

= 3) and C = 1.785 and so


on.
From the expression for C follows, the ratio of density in a smooth interlacement
performed is greater than the smooth, which corresponds to reality. Then, after making
the one and the same machine at a depth equal parts weft smooth and sleek built, the
line height in the loop derived smooth interlacement will be longer, than in primary
smooth interlacement.
Stretching. Stretching derived smooth knitwear determine when certain values of
A
max
, B
max
; S
max
at the previously given formulas.

In determining the loop parameters derived smooth knitwear expanded to the break,
can be used geometric models of expanded smooth knitwear. U stretched derived
smooth knitwear length of yarn in the loop (without the participation of stretching the
yarn) will be higher, the length of midfield, the same A (R

-1), where A-step loop, R

-
repeat derived smooth interlacement.
The derived smooth knitwear, expanded in length loop Cork takes a minimum value and
in turn loop sequences adjacent to half the height of order loop A
min
3d
u
, where d
u
the
long-conditional diameter of the yarn.
Using the formula expanded in length, smooth knitwear for the derived length
Interlacement smooth yarn in the loop will be

i
.
g
= 2B
max
+3d
u
+A
min
(R

-1),
or
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i.g
= 2B
max
+3d
u
+3,5d
u
(R

-1),

where the

B
max
=
( ) [ ]
,
2
1 5 , 3 3
. u g i
R d +


For two smooth (derived) R

= 2, then

B
max
= [-d
u
(3+3,5)] /2.

Comparing the previous formula with the formula smooth knitwear expanded in length,
we can easily assure that the equal length of yarn in the loop and the thickness of the
yarn size B
max
derived smooth Interlacement is less than the basic right-left smooth
knitwear.
Tensile derived smooth knitwear in width to break the loop line height is reduced to a
minimum and is generally B
min
= 2d
u
+ d
u
(R

-1). If each base of the loop derived


smooth Interlacement depending on the feedback from Interlacement R

cut across the


width one (for R

= 2) or more binding parts. By analogy with the stretched smooth


knitwear in width can be written
= R

A
max
+B
min
,
or
= R

A
max
+[2d
u
+d
u
(R

-1)],

A
max
= [-3d
u
(R

+1)] /R

.
where the
A
max
= (-3d
u
) /2.
For two smooth (derived)

A
max
= (-3d
u
) /2

By comparing the expressions, we can easily conclude that the A
max
derived smooth
Interlacement at equal values of and d
u
the length of two times less than in the smooth
primary Interlacement. Maximum surface loop biaxial stretching smooth knitwear can be
determined using the previously given formula for smooth Interlacement, also stretched
the length and width. Replacing it instead A
p
size R

A
p
, we get

S
max
= (-d
u
)
2
R

/8.

From the last expression we see that the surface loop maximally expanded built
knitwear increases with feedback from its width.

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Figure 24.1. Derived smooth interlacement; a-structure Interlacement .,b-graphic c-
technical cartridges with reverse loops.



Figure 24.2. Derived smooth
interlacement

Breaking strain. For derived smooth
interlacement breaking strain, which
results in a loop, determined by the
general formula for uniaxial stretch
knitwear. Number of sections of the yarn,
which is opposed to termination, we find
using the geometric model constructed of
expanded smooth interlacement.
Being extended over the bridge built of
smooth knitwear cease to oppose the two
yarns, if each of its base of the loop
intersects the connecting part. With increasing feedback from derived smooth weave
width increases the breaking strain being extended in width, as it increases the number
of binding components that intersect the base of the loop.
For derived smooth interlacement degree of orientation in space site loop being
extended in length, is determined also, and for establishing a smooth knitwear, using the
geometric model of expanded yarn and knitwear.

25.Designing the right-left press knitwear

While designing the right-left press knitwear (Figure 25.1) it is necessary to take into
account the following features:
All the traps in the loop more difficult to correct and thus increase the step loop:

A
pr
= A
g
+2dn
z
,

where A
g
-step loop smooth knitwear;
A
pr
-step press the loop (an elongated loop with snare);
n
z
- number of traps in the head loop.

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Intermediate step loop
A
sr
= ,
p n
A p A n
pr g
+
+


where n-number of loops in a smooth interlacement;
p-loop of the press, with the condition that the press has a snare loop through the
needle's head loop.

Press the loop area decreases compared with the smooth loop due to the fact that the
traps do not affect the increase in the width of knitwear. Reduction of surface twists and
increasing surface mass twists on the number of traps.
Coefficient truncation surface is determined formula

= (M-m)/M,

where M-number of loops in the repeat;
m-number of traps in the repeat.

Press Row Height B
pr
loop is determined from the surface loop

S = A
sr
B
pr
;

B
pr
= S /A
sr
.

Press the module loop will be increased by a factor , that is

m
pr
= m
g
/ ,

where m
g
-module loop smooth interlacement.

Surface mass 1m
2
press knitwear can be calculated in two ways:
calculation of the vertical density taking into account all the traps, and mass 1m
2

calculated using the formula for smooth weft interlacement;
accepting the density vertically by actual density and the same share with the
shortening of the surface coefficient ,

Q = 410
-4
G
h
G
v
T
t
S
-1
[grm
-2
].

We will consider in detail the design press interlacement structure in which we have
one and two traps over the needle head loop as in figure 65th As we have already said
they called a press loops- loops that have more than a pinhead one or more traps. Press
interlacement the picture contains two kinds of elements loop structure:

Loop 1, 2, 5, 8, 9, 10, 11 and so on;
traps 4, 6, 7

Loop1, and 8 in loops series III and VII have over a pinhead or two traps and call them
pressed loops. Press the loop is characterized by an index K, which shows how many
traps there are pres loop. For example, press loop 1 has a trap, its index is equal to one,
and press the loop index of 8 is equal to two.
Mesh is characterized by varying size and configuration of the loop, for some loops
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that pressed, and the characteristics of the process of creating a loop.
Press loops 1 and 8 are elongated by the amount due before tightening yarn from
adjacent loops with them loop order. Row height of the press loop

B
pr
(K+1)B
g
,

Where K-index pres loop;
B
g
-row height of smooth loops or basic interlacement.

Loop 2, 11, 12, 13, associated with the press loops coupling parts, and reduce in size
due to their tension. Level of tension increases with the loop index press K. At the same
loop index of press when obtaining any kind of knitwear is limited, usually to limit the
amount appears in the press loop B
pr
.

Loop 3, 9, 10, associated with the traps, the size and shape vary from loop 5 basic
interlacement. Usually they have more circular shape and large size, but 5th loop.
The press knitwear interlacement, made of elastic yarn (threads), trap 4, 6, 7, tend to
be fixed and take less tense form, reciprocal acting with neighboring loops and show the
impact of the change between the different steps loop series loops.
For example, loop step in the right II, among series loops II and III, A
II (II, III)
>A where A-
loop step basic interlacement, in the same row, but the series loops I and II-, A
II (I, II)
<A,
that is, A
II (I, II)
<A < A
II (II, III)
. In order loop A
III(V, VI)
<A<A
III (VI, VII).
.

When this beam knitwear press Interlacement, containing a number of sequences and
loops the loop lines, increases in comparison with the basic interlacement knitwear.,
which also contains a number of threads the loop, just at the prescribed schedule of
traps. It increases if the traps contain: in each row and a series of loops, the loops,
distributed over one row and a series of loops, combined the first two species, of which
there are at least two series of loops.
Press interlacement cloth can be regular and irregular. Regular call such knitwear,
which are loops on each side of his receiving the same number of cycles or phases in
the process of creating a loop. Not regular knitwear contain loops, obtained by the
different number of cycles the loop creation.
Press weave cloth on a smooth base, whose structure is given in figure 25.1, belong
to the irregular, because in him all series loops I, II, IV, V, VI, VIII, IX associated with a
single cycle loop creation, press a series of loop III with two-cycle loop creation, loop 8
with three cycles.
The structure of the regular pres-based smooth interlacement is shown in figure 25.2,
a This is called single knitting the catch. Each of his row loop is created from the two
systems of yarn and b. Mesh structure contains two elements: Pres loops 1 and 3 and
the trap 2, 4 Traps are generated from each system in each yarn row loop over a series
loops with a shift in the ranks for size loops -loop A
pr
steps, as shown in Figure 25.2,
c. Adjacent loops 1, 3 in loop sequences are shifted vertically by half the height of order
loop B
Pr
. On the reverse side of knitwear we have net-like structure with small
rhomboidal cells. Press loop traps are not visible on the side face cloth, then, if knitting
loop order apply colorful yarn, the side of the face will get samples in the form of colorful
vertical stripe widths May, the more systemic machine-press samples from different
colored loops, arranged in a triangular arrangement. Beam feedback from
Interlacement R

= 2, height - R
h
= 1

In Figure 25.2, b shows the structure of the regular single knitwear based on a smooth
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repeat with increased interlacement width (R

= 4, R
h
= 1). In this yarn all the loops also
have pitfalls: loops, linked from a cross-traps from the switch B, a loop of yarn b-traps
from a cross.
The diversity of their properties consists in the fact that the loop series III, IV, V have a
common traps, these traps are arranged on the side of the back knitwear, and tighten up
parts of the base weave, made from series loops III, IV, V and connect the the reverse
side of knitwear, which results in knitting create longitudinal embossing rollers.
Graphically presented interlacement is shown in figure 25.2, d.



Figure 25.1. Structure knitwear right-left press interlacement
on the reverse side with the parameters

If we increase the number of the knitting loop sequences, which have common pitfalls, it
common pitfalls, it is possible tightening of small loops, associated with the traps, pitfalls
or interruption in service knitwear, if it increases the length of the traps that lie freely and
not fixed to the reverse side of knitwear. Due to this on the basis of single regular press
knitwear Interlacement get colored patterns with a limited width repeat.
In figure 25.3 shows the structure of (a) and graphical representation (b) irregular
single weft knitwear based on smooth, which was named single-or right-left semi-
engaging interlacement. Feedback from all the loops interlacement 1, 2, 3 have different
sizes and configurations. If the traps in single-pole interlacement the catch allocated to
each other through a series of loops of one row, step loop half the intake A, and the
intake, A
pz
most of the steps will be smooth and the base interlacement.

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Figure 25.2. The structure and graphical representation of the regular
single weft interlacement with parameters



Figure 25.3. The structure and graphical representation of
irregular single half the intake weft interlacement

In figure 25.4 shows the structure of (a, b) and c graphic irregular single weft knitwear,
which was named Micro-Mesh (micro-small loop, mesh-solid loop). Traps for knitting
knitwear created in every second row of the loop through a series of loops as shown in
figure 25.4,c. Beam feedback from weave R

= 2, height R
h
= 3
In this knitwear (Figure 25.4, a), made from elastic yarns (threads), loop coupling parts
associated with the pres loops 2, have a reduced size due to yarn tension before the
loop a second loop in the press If all the loops in lines II and IV are creating with the
reduced length of yarn in the loop, this loop 1, which are located in these lines, I can
tighten so much, that when ripping yarn can not slip from their base parts of loop 3 in the
last row of the loop .
Mesh with a strained loop, made from more flexible filament yarn (Figure 25.4, b) have
some form of mesh structure with rhomboid cells, which are created by the traps Z.

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The thickness of the press knitwear is higher than the base smooth interlacement. In
general form can be determined by the formula

M
pr
,
s s g
e Kd M +

where the thickness of Mg- interlacement base (smooth);
K-index pres loop;
d
s
-average diameter yarn;
e
s
-the number of layers of knitwear loops, in which we have caught.




Figure 25.4. The structure and graphical representation of
irregular single weft knitwear "Micro-Mesh"

Knitwear press interlacement a small stretch, because of the presence of traps in it and
press the loop, which is more oriented in the direction stretching.
Breaking strain of irregular interlacement knitwear press is less than the basic
interlacement knitwear, since it appears random distribution of loads on structural
elements of the loop: the traps and loops.
The length of yarn in traps can be determined (Figure 25.4) as half the length of an
ellipse with axes a = nA
pr
, b= B
z
(1+K):

0,25[nA
pr
+B
z
(1+K)],

where n - the number of series-loop, which have common pitfalls;
A
pr
-step loop the loop press;
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B
z
-height loop with traps (trap height);
K-index pres loop.

In a regular press interlacement knitwear, made of elastic threads, taking into account
the hypothesis of the aspirations of the elastic loop or to occupy the largest surface area
of ellipse with given axis increased take the maximum values, since the ellipse a circle,
that is, under conditions
nA
pr
= B
z
(1+K).

It follows that the
B
z
= nA
pr
/(1+K),

a ratio of density, taking into account the amount of traps

C
z
= B
z
/A
pr
= nA
pr
/[A(1+K)] = n/(1+K).

For regular press interlacement knitwear, for example single the intake (25.4, a), the
n = 1, K = 1
C
z
= B
z
/A
pr
= 1/(1+1) = 0,5.

If the catch in the regular single interlacement adjacent strings moved in relation to one
another by half the amount of press row loop, and B
pr
= 2B
z
,

C = 2C
z
= B
pr
/A
pr
= 1,

where B
pr
-height line pres loop.

The ratio of density to the press knitwear interlacement, especially irregular, which is
given above formulas, different from the actual value, if the configuration and size loop in
such a knitwear determined not only by properties of yarn, twisted loops in given length,
but features of the process of making knitwear .
Depending on the manner and conditions of the process of making knitwear can
change the length of yarn into a trap, press loops and loops of adjacent strings loops,
associated with the traps and press loops coupling parts. Taking into account the length
of yarn in the element structure for each type of knitwear press interlacement calculated
separately.
Counting, that loop feedback from the press interlacement of medium length

R
is
usually wider and shorter loops basic interlacement. Then the mean step loop and loop
the row height can be determined by formulas
; 2
s g pr
Kd A A + =


,
s g pr
Kd B B =



where A
g
, B
g
-appropriate loop step and line height loop basic interlacement;
K-index pres loop;
d
s
-average diameter of the yarn.

When designing knitwear and determine the average length of yarn to interlacement
repeat
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R
= ( ), /
2 1
1 1
1 2
m m
m m
z
+
)
`

+



where - length of yarn in the loop;
m
1
-repeat the number of loops in the interlacement;

z
-length of yarn in the trap;
m
2
-repeat the number of traps in the interlacement.

For example, the single half rack interlacement

R
= ( +
4(z)
)/(3+1),
For single-rack

R
= (
1
+
2 (z)
)/2,

where
1
,
2
,
3
- length of yarn in loops;

4

(z),

2

(z)
- the length of yarn in the traps.

Yarn length
1
,
2
,
3
are calculated using the formula for a smooth interlacement,
while the single semi-engaging, made way without finishing phase,
A
pr
=

; Apr B
1
+B
2
B
3
; B
3
= B
pr
; B
1
0,4 B
pr
; B
2
0,6 B
pr
; B
z
= B
2
.

For a single semi-engaging independent way of making knitwear B
1
= B
pr
;

B
z
= 0,5 B
pr
.

Length of yarn in the traps is determined by a formula which we have already made
on the previous page.
Surface mass of regular and irregular interlacement knitwear press is determined
differently.
Regular knitwear regardless of the type of color pattern and magnitude of its feedback
from contains the same elements of the structure of the loop: loops and traps. Its surface
mass is determined by the appropriate formulas for single and double, main and
interlacement derived taking into account the additional spending exceeds the traps. For
example, for a single regular press interlacement

Q = 410
-4
G
h
G
v
T
t
(
pr
+
z
),

For double (right-right)
Q = 810
-4
G
h
G
v
T
t
(
pr
+
z
).

From these formulas we see that the surface mass knitwear press interlacement
knitwear is greater than the basic interlacement. The irregular knitwear, which is
sampled by the effects of schedule pres create loop based on the basic interlacement in
a certain schedule, the traps also increase the surface mass knitwear.
For irregular knitwear with parameters R

, R
h
,
g
, A
g
, B
g
,

R
, R
u
, R
hu
, p,

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where R

, R
h
-appropriate feedback from the width and height;
A
g
, Bg-step loop and line height loop basic interlacement;

R
-The mean length of yarn in the loop on the part of the press interlacement,
which creates a pattern;
R
u
, R
hu
-appropriate exchanges of parts interlacement, which creates a pattern;
p-code parts interlacement in a press repeat sample

Consumption of yarn to create a repeat of the meters

L
R
= [R

R
h

g
+p(

R
-
g
)]/1000.

Feedback from a mass in grams,
Q
R
= 10
-6
T
t
[R

R
h

g
+p(

R
-
g
)].

Surface mass 1m
2
press cloth,
Q = 410
-4
G
h
G
v
T
t
[R

R
h

g
+p(

R
-
g
)]/( R

R
h
).

25.1. Appendix different combinations of derivative right
left Interlacement

In figures 25.5-25.29, are given different combinations of left-right interlacement, which
can be used in the manufacture of upper garments.



Figure 25.5. Right-left-engaging Hard mesh and Micro-Mesh (diagonal) interlacement



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Figure 25.6. Right-left-engaging interlacement Figure 25.7.Right-left-engaging two-tone



Figure 25.8. Right-left-derived two-tone sampled interlacement



Figure 25.9. Right-left-derived two-color image 25.10. Right-left-derived two-tone
interlacement with crossed floated yarn sampled interlacement
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Figure 25.11. Right-left-derived two-color Figure 25.12.Right -left-rack(pres-sample-out)
interlacement with initial flotation in two-color interlacement
directed loop lines


Figure 25.13. Right-left-semi-engaging two-tone Figure 25.14.Right-left-semi-engaging -
(Twill) interlacement deployed two- tone (moved Twill) interlacement


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Figure 25.15. Right-left-derived two-tone Figure 25.16. Right-left (Petinet-
floated treated with the openwork weft) interlacement
trappings interlacement


Figure 25.17. Right-left-double-engaging Figure 25.18. Right-left double semi-
(Press sampled) interlacement rack (double twill) interlacement
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Figure 25.19. Right-left-clad two-color Figure 25.20. Right-left-duplex
interlacement duotone interlacement.. clad interlacement




Figure 25.21. Right-left-Double Figure 25.22. Right-left-Berries Figure25.23. Right-left-
engaging semi-deployed interlacement berries-deployed
(double twill) interlacement
interlacement

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Figure 25.24. Right-left-row-clad Figure 25.25. Right-left-derived-clad
floated interlacement with the floated interlacement



Figure 25.26. Right-left-plush Figure 25.27. Right-left-sampled-plush
interlacement interlacement



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Figure 25.28.Right-left-footer File 25.29. Right-left-footer-clad
interlacement interlacement

On hosiery machines "Uniplet" is made, which unravels a bit, press interlacement-Hard
mesch (Figure 25.30) are similar as in Figure 25.5.Another combination of press
interlacement (Figure 25.31) to report to 1:3: a-with hosiery vending 12Da b-14Da from
the machine.
In figure 25.32 presents the structure of elastomeric fibers laying on the principle
of laying or footers, and the principle of laying weft threads.
Stockings with interwoven strands and strands with discontinuous plating made the int
erlacement shown in figure 25.33.



Figure 25.30.Pres interlacement "Micro -Mesh"
(that unravels a bit)
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a ) b)

Figure 25.31. Press the repeat interlacement 1:3 (that unravels a bit)



Figure 25.32. The structure of elastomeric or laying: a principle-footers;
b-by principle weft laying the right-right interlacement

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Figure 25.33. The structure of elastomeric strands breaking Cladding

















Figure 25.34. Interlacement structure with twisted and inverted
elastomeric strands

In figure 25.35 presents the structure of "Micro Mesh" interlacement with three different
combinations of interlacement made of four systemic hosiery machine fineness 34
Zodiak(Italy) and I4Da (Czechoslovakia). Characteristic of this group is to interlacement
as opposed to interlacement the image to a, b and c interlacement under practically rip
form the edge.
In figure 25.35, d shows the structure of a single press interlacement, in which
the side of the face we see a circular loop, spread out on account neighboring traps
2nd This type of interlacement are made from flared yarn or thread, patterns create the
figures, which consist of loops with different brightness. Hence, it is necessary to take
into account that most shine a press loop with higher indices (Ternary, quaternary, and
so on). Simpler loops have lower height and greater curvature of the yarn, then they
scattered more light and show a greater darkness , but press the loop.
In order to maintain properties weft knitted twists, loop press spread the interlacement,
for example through three loops smooth interlacement horizontally through a vertical
loop order with the turnoff for a loop in each subsequent pressed row. (Figure 25.35,
e). Beam feedback from interlacement in this case equal to 4 series or loop, and the
height of 8 rows. In each series of loop the loop press are arranged with certain
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intervals. Then at break loop b loop is a rip in the direction opposite knitting (By the
arrow S
1
), and can go over the entire length socks. The knitting direction (by the arrow
S
2
) ripping loop is laid out to the press a. The maximum length for this interlacement tear
in the direction of knitting is equal to six rows of loops. These are called interlacement
(knitwear) a little stretch able. They are widely used for making women's stockings and
got the name "Micro-Mesh.

In figure 25.35, f shows the cartridges of different types of press interlacement type
"Micro-Mesh. The highest prevalence were given interlacement in lines connecting loop
the loop press and smooth loop 1+3 (Figure, a, b) the amount of feedback from 8 and 16
rows of loops. Connecting loops may be different: 1+2 (Figure, a), 1+4 (Figure, d). The
biggest rip opposition the loop has interlacement Related press and smooth loops 1+1
(figures, e). Press the loop it creates the odd rows of loops in the first place in even-
numbered rows of loops in the third row. This sequence gives the press the loop
interlacement mesh effect.

Rip in the opposite direction (from the beginning) to the top of the stocking is much more
difficult for highly strained loop P and traps Z. Repeat of the interlacement in height is 4
lines of the loop, and the width of two series of loops.
In Figure 25.36 shows the combination of smooth interlacement press as a semi-
engaging and engaging.
Single or one-sided semi-engaging the press interlacement (Figure 25.36, a) has a
series of loops connected with a series of loops Press loops (loops with traps).
Single-sided or engaging interlacement (Figure 25.36, b) has all the press the loop. Loop
connecting the press depends on repeat across. When repeat interlacement 1+1 pres
loops are connected into a triangular arrangement in each series of loops.
Figure 25.36, c represents the base knitted press interlacement which is made with a
full introduction tiles warps yarns in the yarn laying the catch. From the figure we see
that the strings produce a yarn loop (series 2-b of the cross, a series of 3-in yarn and so
on). In figure 25.36, d, given the structure three needle atlas in which the loop is not
pressed in crucial lines. As a result, loops are formed only by laying medium and the
rotary or turning obtain laying traps, connected series of loops. Traps are formed
alternately hour left, now right. Loop have no slope and are distributed right.

Figure 25.36, is shown also the base knitted press interlacement in Twill laying the
traps laid over Z (three) through the needle head loop P. One side is a group of traps
attached to the base parts of the loop with two jointing of P
1
and P
2
. and the other side
traps are lifted upward, thereby creating a berry, or bumps, on the side of the back
twists.
One type of tinted interlacement (Figure 25.36, f) shows the distribution of smooth
loops with pressed in the form of stripes, as for example, half rack 2+2. The lower the
height of the loop order by the greater curvature of the yarn. Smooth loops have a lower
height compared to the pres loops, are more abstraction and light, but press the loop
with a darker shadow. Smooth loops provide greater blooming of the news loop. This is
particularly expressive blooming the cloth made from natural silk.
Figure 25.36, g shows the combination of the press with the trappings laid over
interlacement through one or three loops and elongated.
In figure 25.36, h shows the structure of the loop with the associated press Loop 1+1.
Press the loop reduce the length of yarn loops in adjacent smooth interlacement on
account of its redistribution during knitting.
In bed by the width of a smooth loop was further reduced because of the difference in
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the length of the loop in pair 2, 4, 6 and odd 1, 3, 5 ranks. Then, at break and release the
loop the loop B is difficult because of short length loops c, which reduces the rip
interlacement in directions opposite knitting (by the arrow S).
When knitting alternately smooth interlacement rows 2, 4, 6 (Figure 25.37, and) with a
smaller depth of weft, but rows with the press loops, we get the structure of the loop,
which has increased resistance to tear. This is called a press interlacement 1+1 or
Micro-Mesh.
As a result of changes in the relationship of density knitting interlacement smooth lines
2, 4, 6 length of the loop c slightly decreases as the delay stretched into a pinhead to the
knitting head needle press a1 loop, creating the original nodes of the twisted yarn, a loop
b is expanding, acquires the form of semi grip loop.
At break, for example, loop a loop b difficult to freely released from the tight knots in
the twisted yarn loop c. So these socks link interlacement, not tearing up the stretch in
places interrupted, since broken loop and shows the containment from all nodes, created
tension loops.
In figure 25.37 presents the structure of the smooth interlacement on the right side
with a combination of laying traps in the middle row loop, where are all elongated
loop. Floated cross is also going through an elongated loop below (Figure B) and one
above the elongated loop (figure c).
In figure 25.38 shows the structure of the right of the smooth interlacement with weft
laying (Figure, a) alternately above and below the loop sequences in rows as in laying
the weft knitwear linen interlacement. Figure-b shows the weft laying vertically on strings
alternately above and below the platinum loop arcs.
In figure 25.39 shows the right side of the smooth interlacement with different
combinations of switching from one set of loops in an adjacent loop, technical and
cartridge scheme.



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Figure 25.35. Structure interlacement "Micro- Mesh"

In figure 25.40 shows the right side of right-left interlacement so-called " Stitched lace
openwork. Figure 25.41 shows the left side of the right-left interlacement with yarn
floated over 1+1. As you can see from the picture floated yarn is interwoven in the form
of traps platinum arches basic interlacement.

The right side of the loop in the cartridge (Figure, a) is shown in uppercase letter
V. Field in the cartridge is marked with the letter h shows a loop by shifting the range of
an adjacent loop. Scheme transferring the right of the cartridge is clearly shown. By
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shifting the loop yarn is formed an opening or "Openwork" which gives a special effect
yarn. Image b shows a second variant of the transfer loop with two adjacent pins on the
left and right loops adjacent series. The cartridge is checked letters d and b. A special
way to transfer the page loops through the two sets of loops shown in Figure, c. In the
second row in the third row right site loop is put through its own and neighboring pinhead
and connects with the left page with the adjacent loop sequence in the same row. The
technical cartridge is marked with two letters n, and the scheme right from the cartridge
with the letter V.

A special way to transfer loop is shown in figure, d, where the second series of loops
in the second row of the right page shifting loop the loop over a pinhead in the adjacent
row in the second row, shifting through our own incomplete pinhead is still connected to
the right site loop in the second row adjacent series. Left site loop in the third row of the
third series is associated with platinum arches loop in the fourth row of the second
series. This way of transferring the yarn loops get smaller and larger openings, as shown
in Fig.


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h i
Figure 25.36. The structure of single (right-left) pres smooth interlacement



Figure 25.37. Right-left interlacement to snare a floated cross-b, c
on the right side

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Figure 25.38. The right side of the smooth interlacement with the weft yarn passing
linke warenseite -interlacement left side (reverse); Rechte warenseite -
interlacement right side (face).




Figure 25.39. The right side of the smooth interlacement with elements
switching loop, technical and cartridge loop transfer scheme

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Figure 25.40. Stitched lace Openwork "Figure 25.41. Right-left floated 1+1 interlacement

In figure 25.42 shows the right-left two-tone floated interlacement. By the way floated
cross and interference in the basic interlacement I was named" Accordion interlacement
Floated yarn is interwoven in the ratio 1+2 and both left and right create a diagonal
primary loop, similar to the accordion.
This type of weave can be obtained only on machines that are equipped with specialized
device for sampling.

In figures 25.43-25.51 are given graphics right-left derivative interlacement.
Some loop structures, which are given above are presented in the form of graphic
representation.



Figure 25.42. Accordion interlacement

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a b




Figure 25.43. Press interlacement embossed

In figure 25.43, and shows the embossed pattern on the press interlacement yarn
obtained by connecting parts, consisting of smooth loops, or other major interlacement,
with long press loops, which have a higher number of traps. In these parts of the
interlacement, which consist of simple loops, tighten the loop and press work in relief,
creating relief on the surface of berries twists. Thus, for example, the single
interlacement, (Figure 25.43, b) A press loop tightens parts of the simple loop B, by
making them berries relief (elevation).

In figure 25.43,c shows the pattern of double cloth interlacement with relief pres-color
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pattern, obtained on the machine interlock. As shown in the sample, if necessary press
elongated loops are associated with loops Ribbed normal size, causing the yarn creates
small relief patterns, successfully applied to the knitting of ladies' blouses.

Figure 25.43,c imitate successfully openwork effective knitwear single and double
interlacement Press obtained through the creation of light in places of schedule with
more pres loop indices, that is, with many pitfalls. Spaces the press very tense loops and
adjacent rows of loops from a simple loop we create as virus traps the rectification. In
doing so they appear elastic forces that move adjacent sequences of the loop of the
news loop, and creates holes between them,recalling the bright openwork interlacement.
These interlacement also known as a spider web.



Figure 25.44. Right-Left brought interlacement Figure 25.45. Right-left-shifted Press
sampled 1+1 interlacement



Figure 25.46. Right-left-right Twill Figure 25.47. Right-left-Twill deployed
"Semi-engaging" interlacement LASKOTE", "Hard mesh" interlacement




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Figure 25.48. Right-left-right Twill Double Figure 25.49. Right-left-Double Twill
deployed interlacement



Figure 25.50. Right-left-right- Berries interlacement

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Figure 25.51. Right-left-Berries deployed Figure 25.52.Right-left-
Micro -Mesh" interlacement interlacement

26. Structure and design footer Interlacement

Footer Interlacement twists to the basic interlacement contain additionalyarns, unconn
ected to the loop, the additional yarns caught in a flat baseby tightening the loop through
some traps foot- er yarn. Name footer yarn obtained by the apparatus footer, which was
first applied to a machine with a pointed needle, as for example, "French rundschtul" and
others. In preparing the knitwear yarns footer footers Interlacement runs the needle-
shaped traps, drains toward throwing off the half loops and with them the newly created
loop.
In figure 26.1, and shows the structure of knitwear footer interlacement based smooth
weft interlacement. These interlacement in the literature, as well as many others have ot-
her names, like for example: right-left, single, one-sided, smooth, smooth weft and so on.

This includes knitwear footer yarn F, trap you in a certain throwing off the series of
loops along the newly with half loops the loop. Pitfalls of a single line loop connecting the
two coupling parts, laying on the back side of knitwear. Footer yarn is attached to the
base at points a, b, c platinum heads or bows.
In the areas of cutting the yarn footer platinum heads footer yarn is visible on the side
of the face of the knitwear adjacent rows of loops. This phenomenon is the lack of
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knitwear footer interlacement on the base smooth. This removed the lack of production
of knitwear clad footer interlacement, which are combined in the group sampled.

The clad footer interlacement (figure 26.1, b) a trap footer yarn F distributed among
clad with P and O primary yarn. Hence, it is not only beautify the appearance of the face
knitwear, but the strength of attachment to primary footer yarn. In one series loop weft
interlacement knitwear footer may be laying some footers yarn.
Depending on the number of such yarn distinguish:

simple,
doubled,
tripled footer interlacement.

Knitwear footer interlacement can be created on the basis of all known interlacement.
By type of interlacement smooth as primary, in which the twisted yarn footer, footer
knitwear can be: single weft (Figure 26.1, a, b), the double weft (Figure 26.1, d), and the
basics of knit (Figure 26.2).
In the knitting yarn can be executed footer role padded (Figure 26.2, a, b), binding
(Figure 26.2, e), sampled (Figure 26.2, f), skeletal (Figure 26.1, d), and also
simultaneously binding and sampled (Figure 26.2 , e).

In figure 26.1, b shows the structure of weft interlacement knitwear footer with padded
(depressed) based on the yarns derived smooth interlacement. Padded footer yarn
almost imperceptible on her face knitwear, and knitwear can be used instead of clad
footer interlacement, which is a very complex process.

In weft knitting cloth footer based Rib (right-right) 1+1 (Figure 26.1, d) skeletal footer
yarn and b are bound to reduce the elasticity of Ribs across. Snare a cross from a
distributed only on the face of the loop sequences, and the connecting part of the 2-
strings in the face and reverse. Traps 1', 3, 3' from yarn b are connected to the face, and
the reverse loop sequences, and binding of two platinum head wraps the basic
loop. Linking footer yarn in the latter case provides its strength by fixing the basic
interlacement.
In figure 26.2, a, d shows the structure of Elementary knitted interlacement footer
based leotards with padded footer yarns and various types footer loop. Footer yarn
woven knitwear basically create traps and connecting parts.
Footer traps ab and cd-parts footers yarns interwoven with the coupling parts of the loop
base interlacement. Footer connecting parts of BC and are associated in the process of
creating sequenced knitting footer traps.
Footer traps and footer connecting parts as a whole create not meshed footer loop.
We distinguish between open and closed loop not meshed.

Not meshed footer open loop call in this case, the footer twisted namesake midfielder
footers parts and basic yarns (Figure 26.2, b, d), that is input connecting parts footer
yarns interwoven with the input coupling of basic parts or output coupling parts footer -
with output coupling basic parts.
In closed not meshed footers oops intertwine different connecting parts (Figure 26.2,
b, d) that is, the input connecting parts footer cross-coupling with the input of the core
yarn.
Elementary knitted twists footers interlacement with yarns padded (Figure 26.2, a, d)
is characterized by high strength fixing footers yarn in basic interlacement and low air
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permeability. Footer connecting parts forming on the reverse of the dense coverage of
twists, particularly rational, there is preparation, where the capacity of primary and use
footers various types of textile yarn.

In figure 26.2, is shown the structure of knitwear, in which the footer yarn occur
simultaneously unifying and the sampling. Laying footers yarn behind the needles are
executed jacquard machine. In knitting create sampled effects due to direct connection
holes (part III) with parts I and II more or less densely covered footers yarns.
In figure 26.2, f shows the structure of knitted twists with yarns footers sampled.
Samples of types of links (embroidery) are produced by passing footers yarn F
1
and F
2

on the reverse interlacement knitwear tights. Analog samples can be obtained on the
basis of single weft interlacement.

26.1. Features twists and calculation methods

Supplemental footers yarn, twisted into the basic knitwear any interlacement,
significantly alter its properties. Schedule on the reverse side of the single knitwear or
the basic parts of the double loop, increasing the thickness of the yarn footers knitwear.
Knitwear thickness is increased by roughly the thickness of the yarn footers, if the
basic interlacement involved one of their system, and the thickness of a few yarns, if
their number is higher than the system they are placed so that they intersect.

M = M
g
+nd
sf
,

where M
g
-thick smooth or basic knitwear;
n-number system of interceptions footers yarn;
d
sf
-average diameter footers yarn.

Footer knitting yarn usually bushy, so be on the side of his back sidecreates a dense
hairy surfaces. The basis of such twists are not nearly unravels: hair yarn fall into difere
nt parts of the base loop, preventing the dissolution, therefore, increase appro
aching the knitting, yarn footer acceptance.
.
Single knitwear footers interlacement with twisted ends, and knitwear base
interlacement, but its curl is less in those directions among loops or strings, which is
attached footer yarn. Knitwear with footers yarns, oriented in the direction of stretching,
as well as knitwear weft interlacement, a few are stretchable. Stretchable knitwear
footers interlacement is higher than weft knitwear; in them are the pitfalls and the
connecting parts footers yarn, for example, inserted along the line loop (Figure 26.1, a, c,
d, 26.2, e), more bent, but binding weft parts.

In bed knitwear footers interlacement of the load acceptance footers yarn, it is more
oriented in the direction of stretching, but the basic interlacement in loops, in the first
place will be destroyed footers yarns, and core, which leads to unequal efficiency and
yarn strength is expressed as a lack of .
In complex deformities such knitwear, which are approaching the size of the destructi
on, footers yarn may change its position relative to the base yarns. These changes do
not establish the relaxation processes and leads to decreased stability indicators form
knitwear.
In knitwear footers interlacement (Figure 26.1, a, c and d) some parts footers yarn
arranged in the connecting parts between the rows of loops, increasing the step loop
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A
f
. Increasing steps in the loop the loop sequences with the trappings footers yarn ab
can lead to changes in steps A
1
loop between adjacent rows of loops, having no traps,
since A
f
A A
1
, with A
f
> A <A
1
, where A-step loop basic interlacement. Such changes
we perceive step loops, if the traps footers yarn in each loop arranged in one and the
same number of loops. Usually footers yarn loops arranged in rows are shifted, then the
A
1
A.
Intermediate step for such a loop knitwear yarn laying footers the repeat R
f
= a + b is
determined according to the formula
( ) . /
f f f
R bA aA A + =



If traps footers yarn usually takes only one needle (R
f
= a + b), the above formula
takes the form
( ) . /
f f f
R bA A A + =



Footers yarns are usually fuller than the basic, then A
f
2 (d
sg
+d
sf
), where the d
sg
and
the d
sf
-average diameter of primary and footers yarn.

In a simple single knitwear smooth coefficient based on the relationship of density may
be the same as in the smooth interlacement. With increasing number of footers yarn, laid
in one row of loops, it is increased and can be determined by the formula
C = B/A = [B
g
+(r-1)d
sf
]/

f
A ,
where B
g
-row height loop knitwear base;
r- number footers yarn, laid in a row loop knitwear;
d
f
-average diameter footers yarn;

f
A - Intermediate step loop footers interlacement knitwear.

Footer yarn length (Figure 26.1, a) consists of the sum of the two traps ab and bc of
midfield. Length of traps can be calculated as half the length of an ellipse with semi axes
0.5 and A
f
d
sf
; length of connective bc a significant degree depends on the technological
conditions of production and footers knitwear, for example, they are increased to reduce
tension footer yarn in the process of loop increasing the output throat platinum needle
behind his back, when the process of creating the loop is executed from a share of
platinum.

The length of this interface works with a small error can be calculated through the
steps needle knitting machines t taking technological interference footer yarn twists in
aging:


bc
= (R
f
-1)t (1-K
u
),

where K
u
- the coefficient of interference footer yarn. For cotton yarn K
u
.02 to
.03. Then

L
f
=
ab
+
bc
= 0,5(0,5

f
A +d
sf
)+(R
f
-1) t (1- K
u
).

Footer length of yarn, which is added to a primary loop
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f
= L
f
/R
f
,


where L
f
- the length of yarn in the repeat footer of her laying;
R
f
-repeat laying footer yarn.

At a certain size
f
surface mass knitwear is determined by the formula for the weft
interlacement, in which the weft yarn, instead of length, which refers to a single loop, we
set the size of
f
.
In Figure 26.3 presents the structure footer interlacement whose main interlacement


Figure 26.1. Structure footers interlacement cloth

different from the basic interlacement listed above. In fact this is the press footer
interlacement the intake on the basis of a single interlacement. Fixing footer loop yarn
structure (Figure 26.1,a) all the same: the yarn is arranged in the form of midfielder bc,
on the side of the back and hangs on platinum heads of basic loops interlacement into
account the pitfalls bc. In press footer interlacement (Figure 26.3) platinum head basic
interlacement are crossing with the press traps P
Z
.

The intersections of the yarn footer platinum heads the main loop in the simple footer
first entering the side of the face knitwear. This phenomenon is one of the major
drawbacks simple footer, since it creates an uneven surface on the side of the face
knitwear.
created as a result of combing yarn footers, increase the heat properties knitwear on
average by 50%. Laying the second footer yarn increases the coefficient of heat
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retention knitwear under other equal conditions of 10%.
Figure 26.4 shows the structure of a simple single-footer (Figure 26.3, a) and double
(Figure 26.3, b).
See all figures, that f footer yarn lays on pins and needles in order over the three pin on
the fourth (1:3). In those places where the yarn is taken footer under the needle, it lies
freely on the reverse. There, where the yarn is taken to the needle, it intersects the
adjacent connecting pieces (platinum (sinker) head) and come on the back side
knitwear. Wrapping the core yarn, yarn passes f again on the reverse side of knitwear.

In figure 5.26 presents the structure of knitwear footers interlacement, made on the
basis of the primary loop pres 1+1. Footer fu this yarn knitwear distributed between loop
1 and loop traps 2 press P. Basic press interlacement knitwear footers can consist of
smooth and press the loop, divided not only over one, but in the second schedule
(2+2, 2+1 and so on). Also for a knitwear better compliance and less surface mass
of the best and introduced, as the primay connection is to use
the press and smooth loops in a ratio of 1+1.
Yarn laying footers depending on the purpose of knitwear can be several types. The
most widespread exchanges laying the 1+2 and 1+3 for the single interlacement knitwe
ar footers and a +3- to double. Laying 1+1 only apply in the preparation of heavy
knitwear (such as heavy cloth) and also knitwear, which is not subjected to heat setting.
Laying footers yarn may beright, that is, without turning(Figure 26.6, a),the turn
(Figure 26.6, b),and mixed (Figure 26.6, c).
When laying right footer in any yarn knitting system is taken at one and the same needle.
This requires that the number of needles in cylinder machines commensurable with
the number of needles in a repeat laying. When laying turning footer knitting yarn in a sy
stem of laying the diversion of relatively laying footer knitting yarn in the previous
system.
Laying the diagonal turn we get, when the number of needles in the cylinder is divisib-
le by the number of needles in the repeat with there.On one line loop basic weave can
be placed one or two footer yarn, and as a result creates a single or double interlaceme-
ment footers.
These apply to interlacement the basis for hot clothing products. One of the basic
characteristics of their technical capacity to keep the heat. Studies have shown that hair,

When mixed laying footer yarn laying right on the line with moved (italics) laying. To
obtain a mixed laying it is necessary that the number system is not divisible by the
number of needles in a repeat laying.
In preparing clad knitwear, among footer yarn, knitting participate in two cross -basic
and clad, with the basic yarn is introduced into a Knitting system, and clad to another.
Then, for the overthrow of one order of loop clad interlacement knitwear footers need
two knitting systems, which lowers productivity.

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Figure 26.2. Structures and graphic overview of the knitted twists
footer interlacement


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Figure 26.3. Structure press footer interlacement



Figure 26.4. The structure of single and double weft
knitwear footers interlacement

Graphic display
Graphic display
By -
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Figure 26.5. The structure of the interlacement knitwear footer
press the basis of basic loops



Figure 26.6. Graphic representation of laying footers yarn


In figures 26.7-26.8 are given graphics deployed 1+1 footer interlacement jacquard
footer and the, international institutions with connective-footers floated interlacement.

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Figure 26.7. Footer deployed 1+1 Figure 26.8. Jacques footer























Figure 26.8. Connective susceptible footer interlacement

26.2. The structure and design clad interlacement
26.2.1.Types twists (knitwear) and their structure

Knitwear or interlacement, connected in two parallel spaced yarns so that one yarn is
on the face knitwear and the other on the reverse, call clad, or knitting, in which all or a
loop formed from two or more yarns, with yarn basic parts of the loops are arranged so
that the basic loop laying on the back side knitted twists and clad on the face of basic
loops, called netting clad interlacement.
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Interlacement cloth clad can get on base any capital interlacement. We share them in
a smooth and sampled twists. Sampled twists can be variable, cutoff, and additional
embroidery. On the basis of knitwear interlacement gives clad painted, embossed and
updated sampled effects. Interlacement cloth clad can be as weft so and basic knit,
single and double.
In figure 26.9 shows the structure of cross-interlacement woven clad based weft smooth:
a-side of the face; b-side reverse; c-side of the face with parameters structure
needles. From the figure we see that the smooth loop interlacement structure remained
the same from before, just changed their composition: each loop consists of two
yarns. Yarn, which is noted on the side of the face loop, called the clad or opaque, and
the reverse-main.
Loop yarn having a complex spatial form, its loops pages are bent. This is nice to see
a side section of the loop (Figure 26.9, a, c, layout AA'and YY). Then move the needle
and platinum heads (arches) are mixed, and the reverse side only seen platinum plated
cross head.
The smooth interlacement yarn clad, obtained on the basis of smooth (Fig. 26, c), loops
are formed from two yarns: Basic and plated P. Clad yarn is here assigned to the face
knitwear, and basic on the reverse. In preparing the switch knitwear of equal thickness
on the side face is visible only clad yarn P, with the back-just a basic yarn O. As we see
from the longitudinal section and side twists series loops, the side of the face we see
only parts of the core yarn in the field of platinum head loop.
The smooth knitting double clad -clad interlacement yarn is distributed in the side of
the face loop and the reverse-within the knitwear.
The sampled clad interlacement knitwear, as well as smooth, all the loops we create
the two yarns (basic and clad), but in some places, according to the sample repeat
layout exceeds the basic parts of the loop is changing: the basic yarn exits the side of
the face, and clad-side reverse twists. Based on variables interlacement cloth clad
create colored and Shadow sampled effects. Samples on the basis of such twists do not
have a clean and vibrant colors. This explains the time, as the basic parts of the loop
yarn arranged one after another, have a variation of thickness and roughness, the yarn
of one color, for example primary, according to the shading effect of different color yarn
(plated).
In breaking knitting clad interlacement together with loops, created from the two
(primary and clad) yarn, we have a loop, formed only from one yarn. The structure of
such a interlacement is shown in Figure 26.10, a In it most of the loops created from the
basic yarn O and clad P. The loop consists only of basic yarns O clad yarn with loops By
pulling on the reverse twists in the form of connect parts of the loop. If a higher order of
these loops in a row loops, the greater length of the binding parts.
Midfielder parts are reduced by stretching knitwear across the width, in its free state to
die and can be terminated at the exploitation of the product. In addition to color patterns
on the basis of breaking twists clad interlacement, can only be, with less repeat.
Significantly greater use of escape interlacement receive updates when connecting
sampled effects. In the preparation of such twists as the use of primary and clad yarn,
significantly differ in thickness, for example as a main-thin mono-or complex or, as the
clad-high-density thread or yarn. When laying the needle core O and P plated yarn in
accordance with a graphical display (Figure 26.11, a) to update, knit -knitwear base,
whose structure is shown in figure 26.11, b.

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c

Figure 26.9. The structure of clad cross-interlacement knitwear



Figure 26.10. Structure of single clad interlacement cloth: a-cutoff, b-extra;
c-embroidered

When interference yarn significant difference of thickness, all loop, creating a repeat
interlacement height R
h
have different size (B
1
, B
2
, B
3
, B
4
) and shape. This explain the
different elasticity of primary and plated yarn, bent into loops, and various conditions of
creation loops in the knitting process. For example, the creation of two yarn a series of
loops in a row loops get at least the amount of red loops B
1
and has the shape of the
trap.
Exceed this loop, seeking to correct, considerably increase the width of the rejected
these loops of order 4, generated from thin yarn, and tighten the base loop of the first
order loop zoom in width and Single loop height of the thin yarn produced in the
knitwear open O, imitating the so-called openwork (open).
Loop of order 2 when creating tighten up the loop order of 1 and reduce the size of the
gain increase (B
2
B
1
). Loop order 3, tightened through increased order loop 2, and vice
versa, produce impairment (B
3
<B
2
). By reason of analog loop line 4 will be increased
(B
4
> B
3
).
O
O
Clad
yarn

Basic
Yarn
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When creating samples with azure in the basic knitwear accordance with the repeat of
the sample parts provided knitwear, associated primary and plated yarns have the
brightness.
In an additional knitwear clad interlacement (Figure 26.10, b) basic knitwear is created
from a loop, connected to one cross, and parts clad loop b are composed of two yarns.
These parts get through the extra yarn and woven plated P together with the main yarn
O. When not clad yarn creates a loop in the feedback from all sections of the sample, it
will be in those places where there is no loop, yarn stretched on the reverse side of the
form of binding parts along the lines of additional loop knitwear.
The embroidered knitwear clad interlacement (Figure 26.10, c) as well as additional,
along with a basic loop, created from single yarn, containing parts of the loop b, generat-
ed from primary and plated cross, placed in each loop a maximum of two adjacent series
of loops.
Extract links and additional knitwear clad interlacement in some groups, regardless of
similarity structure, explain this, as in making embroidered knitwear clad cross taking on
the perforated needle (Bearing rail), similar to the warp knitting machines, and extra
additional yarn guides, which can be laying on the cross each set of needles.
Clad with colorful yarn embroidery, interfere with the basic loops, creating the thicken-
ed parts and knitwear sampled effects, like embroidery.


26.2.2. Features clad with knitwear
and design its structure

Interlacement cloth clad properties determine the type of interlacement and yarn
properties, used for its development.
Law of change weft features and fundamentals of knitted twists clad interlacement were
different.
Weft smooth and sampled variable clad interlacement maintain the structure and
properties of primary interlacement. Such features, as the resolution of the curl with regi-
ons, and also the orientation of the loop sequences and loops -loops rows and rows of
knitting, the coefficient of relationship density at a given loop module, parameter, and
ductility breaking load of knitwear can be changed through choice of initial yarn.
For example, using the knitting yarn interlacement clad with a different twist direction,
is possible to remove the distorted loop sequences, by virtue ofusing different yarns for
the face and reverse side-knitwear improve its hygienic properties and so on.
1m
2
surface mass, density knitting horizontally and vertically, the length of weft yarn in
the loop of smooth and sampled variable clad interlacement knitwear is calculated using
the same formulas for smooth and constructed interlacement, with the participation of
collective or common longitudinal weight yarn. When using as a core and laying with
different types of yarn and longitudinal mass, surface mass can be determined by the
formula

Q
(o+p)
= 410
-4
G
h
G
v
(
o
T
to
+
p
T
tp
),

where
o
and
p
-appropriate length of yarn in the loop core and clad;
T
to
, and T
t.p
-appropriate longitudinal mass primary and claying yarn.

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Figure 26.11. Graphic representation of the structure breaking
interlacement cloth clad with updated sampled effect

The smooth interlacement yarn clad plated yarn length in the loop is usually for 3-5%
higher than the basic.
Stretchable knitwear clad knited determined by formulas for the basic Interlacement; In
determining the breaking load, we consider their meanratios for primary and clad cross.
Weft sampled cutoff, additional and embroidered clad interlacement, containing parts,
a variety of thickness, creating clad and the basic loop. In breaking knitwear significantly
reduced extensibility and breaking strain in width because of the presence of binding
components.
When calculating the surface mass density or breaking clad interlacement should be
noted, that the plated yarn loops do not generate any where. In those places where the
yarn and do not create loops on the reverse side of knitwear tighten the loop connecting
parts.
If the width and height of a rectangular sample feedback from the knitwear according
to R

, and R
h
- N
op
number of loops, generated from primary and plated cross, then the
length of yarn, knitting spent a feedback from be

L
R
= L
o( R)
+ L
p( R)
=
o
R

R
h
+(R

R
h
-N
op
)
p
+AN
op
,

where
o
and
p
-length of yarn in the loop core and laying loop;
A-loop step.
Mass of feedback from the sample in grams

Q
R
= ( L
o( R)
T
to
+ L
p( R)
T
tp
)10
-6

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Surface mass knitwear in g m
-2
, is determined by the formula

Q = Q
R
n
R
,

where the number of N
R
-repeat knitwear surface of 1m
2
.

n
R
= 410
2
G
h
G
v
/( R

R
h
),

Substituting values we get Q
R
and n
R


Q = 410
-4
G
h
G
v
{
o
R

R
h
T
to
+[(R

R
h
-N
op
)
p
+AN
op
]T
tp
}/ (R

R
h
).

Analogous to determine the surface mass of additional and embroidered knitwear clad
interlacement. When calculating the additional expenditure of clad and embroidery
yarn we find taking the number of loops in the repeat laying sample, therefore, beyond
that, we take into account additional expenditure (embroidered) yarn in the connecting
part of the loop.
In figure 26.11 shows the scheme of the phases of the process of creating a
interlacement clad in pointed and latch pins.
Pp half loop is raised up sliding body with platinum (sinker) pins. Pointed needles
(guide) do not work movement. Latch needles have a working motion: lift up the closing
phase and the relaxing phase overlapping in relation to the repulsive plane, in which
reserves half loop.
I- laying position. Cross taking on different levels: a closer hook-pin, 2-on. In the
process of introduction, followed one after the other, enter below the hook yarn needle,
while still maintaining the position when the yarn 1 is located closer to the hook needles,
yarn 2 - on. It is very important to give the newly created position of yarn loop does not
change until the moment of connection.
Position II- linking. The essence of this phase consists in the fact that the half loop,
connecting the pinhead new loop, pressing the last, and thus fixes the position of the
yarn in a new loop, which determine the conditions of import and export.
Position III-formation or the production, extraction begins. In fulfilling the formation of a
new half loop does not change its position by merging 1 and 2, passing through newly
formed loop.
Considering the structure of a loop, we see that the yarn came out on a reverse side
of knitwear and appears as a fundamental and yarn 2- on the side of the face, appearing
as a clad.
Here derive the basic rules of knitting technology clad loop:
position the yarn in the loop determine the conditions of the execution phase of the
laying and removal.;
yarn, placed closer to the hook needles, creating the reverse side, and yarn, placed on
the hooks needle-side of the face knitwear;
the knitting needles in the mode it is necessary to alter the terms of adding yarn.

These rules apply to any type of machine.
In figure 26.13, given the varieties of schedule laying and core yarn under the needle
hooks.
Figure 26.13, and the first hook of the needle enters the yarn 2, and her yarn 1, which is
visible on the surface of knitwear on the face. Figure 26.13, b, shows the reverse side of
the loop of yarn 1, and the face-loop from the second yarn.
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In the creation of loops on a circular machine (Figure 26.13, c) a yarn out the side of
the face, but if the needle overthrow loops in adjacent rows of loops in a variety of fronts,
on the side of the face will be visible knitwear loops from a yarn and the yarn second
In figure 26.14 shows the escape clad interlacement.
In figures 26.15-26.17 are given graphics laying interlacement the base, and carried
out mutually clad -clad interlacement.

26.3. The structure and design of plush interlacement
26.3.1. Kinds of knitwear and its structure

Knitting, yarn made from the basic to all major, performed or sampled interlacement with
yarn or additional interference beam staple fibers in the base interlacement, creating
increased platinum head or arches, or binding parts for heat setting, called velvet
interlacement. Knitted plush interlacement distinguish:
The type of basic interlacement (weft, warp knitted, single, double, based on principal,
derived and sampled interlacement);
By way of distribution of binding components in knitting (the side of the face, the back,
double);
by way of attaching teddy binding parts of the basic interlacement
(With twisted-bonding parts of the loop, weft, footers)
the type of connect parts of calendaring (drawn, cut, fur).

Therefore, plush interlacement knitwear
can be smooth, weft and sampled. On the
basis of plush interlacement tufted and get
fur and knitwear products, carpets, stuffed
and painted relief sampled effects. Smooth
plush stuffed to the back of a loop according
to each primary loop. Plush interlacement
can be complete and incomplete, depending
on where the plush create curls or
connecting parts. If the connecting parts of
the thing of all sequential loops, it is full of
plush, if created by one or more series of
loops, then it is incomplete.
In Figure 26.18, and shows the structure
of weft smooth towing plush on the reverse
side velvet interlacement knitwear based
smooth.


Figure 26.12. Scheme of execution of
certain phases of creating a loop at
the clad pointed and latch pins



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Figure 26.13. Variants of the basic layout and clad
yarn under the needle-nose needle

In figure 26.18, b shows the structure of cut velvet on the reverse interlacement plush
knitwear-based smooth. By the structure of such a knitwear is different from the towing,
made also on the basis of the interlacement, but in creased platinum head (stuffed locks)
in it were cut.
Cutting loop and plush yarn can be made in the process of knitting the knitwear machine
or on special machines for cutting and shea ring. In figure 26.18, c, shows the structure
of smooth loops in a fur teddy knitwear interlacement on the reverse of the base smooth.
Unlike the cut in it instead of yarn or complex or in the main interlacement from any
one involved the fiber bundles staple 3, pulled needles from spun tape. As a result, the
ends of two twisted fibers of different lengths create plush. Based on this knitwear get
artificial fur.



Figure 26.14. Escape clad interlacement: a, c-structure, b-
knitting pattern
Loop connecting part-
flotation a
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Figure 26.15. Right-Left brought File 26.16. Right-left clad interlacement
clad interlacement






















Figure 26.17. Right and left both sides
clad interlacement

Loop 1 from the main yarn and creates the smooth knitwear. Loop 2 from soft yarns twist
ed b together with the main, however, platinum heads of these three loops are increased
by comparison with primary and forming on the back side of the knitting drawn or towing
plush. In the sample drawn plush teddy knitting interlacement on the reverse on the
basis of smooth samples are created on the reverse side of knitwear from chapter
3 platinum soft yarns, which are divided by the sample.



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Figure 26.18.Weft plush interlacement knitwear
a-smooth structure drawn (dragged) to the plush side of the back;
b-structure sampled cut velvet on the reverse side;
c-loop sampled fur on the back side




Image 26.19.Struktura bilateral drawn
(drawn) velvet interlacement

Double-sided plush knit interlacement drawn on the basis of reverse smooth interlaceme
nt (Figure 26.19) is made from two yarn systems, basic and soft b. Basic knitting knitted
from yarn and basic, which makes the base and the connecting loops of a common
length. B yarn, woven together with the primary, in obtaining any loops order to reverse,
creating the enlarged connecting parts 2 and 3 If you are on the side of the back rows of
smooth interlacement loops overthrow occasionally on the face and reverse loops velvet
knitwear from increased binding of parts arranged on both of the cloth, considerably
increase its thickness M, and consequently, increase the parameters of volume and
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thermal protective properties.
In all variants considered weft basic interlacement cloth stuffed and plush yarns inter
woven together, creating a base of loops from two yarns, knitted twists clad in a interlace
ment.
Common interference primary and plated switch provide reliable interference plush
yarn in knitting. The lack of such involvement is the appearance of increased
consumption of soft yarn and limit the choice of line weight of the yarn from the treatment
of certain machines finesse.
The basic rule of getting stuffed interlacement is as follows. Increasing the platinum
head or binding parts of the plush loops create different depths of cooling core and soft
yarns.
At a constant position of guard plane depth of cooling the yarn has to be stuffed with
greater depth of cooling of the core yarn

h
k.p
> h
k.o
.

To fulfill this rule on the machine it is necessary to have:
special platinum, hooks or other additional parts, you use to create an additional level
of cooling for the soft switch;
Add basic yarn and stuffed with distribution or separating.

26.3.2. Features and design plush knitwear

Stuffed plush yarn loops in the interlacement increase its thickness M. Then increase the
volume parameters and improve the thermal protective properties of the products from
that cloth.
At the plush yarn tangled with the basic knitwear interlacement do win stuffed form,
analogous to the structure clad interlacement cloth. In this case the parameters of the
basic interlacement structures loops A, B, , Q, and so on, calculated using the formula
for knitwear interlacement clad. The length of the plush yarn loops teddy (drawn and
cut) knitwear calculated taking taking into account its structure and method of manufactu
re.
In figure 26.20 shows the operation process of creating a single loop in the preparati-
on of the clad plush knitting machine with latch needles, working sequenced (Figure
26.20, a) and through a needle (Figure 26.20,b). It can be seen that the depth of weft co
re yarn O is significantly smaller than the depth of cooling soft yarn P.
When working needle over one (1+1) can be obtained on the basis of two sides plush
smooth interlacement. In his knitting with a knitting system for a group of needles, invol-
ved more than one (1+1), and other system-another group of needles, also included
in this sequence.

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Figure 26.20. The process of creating a loop in the preparation of laying plush latch
needles in the distribution of needles 1+1.

In figure 26.21 shows the different structures plush interlacement.

26.4. Updated knitting, structure and properties

Knitwear updated knitting called weft knitting, in which a loop extending not only over
their own, but also the adjacent rows of loops. This knitting obtained by means of
additional process loops or traps on adjacent pins. Features knitted structure of single
(left-rights) updated interlacement is visible in figure 26.22. In obtaining such a series
of twists on the adjacent loops loops that can be transferred to their removal from the ne
edle, where they create (such as loop 4, 2, 7), and without their removal from the needle
(as a loop 5); possible to transmit the traps (as a trap 1).
During the transfer of loops in the knitting create up to date openings.
For example, the transfer of three series of loops the loop 2 in order loop IV of a series
of adjacent loops right at the pins, with the transfer loop, initially creating a trap (row loop
V),which you then fine (rowing loop V) off the main loop of the base interlacement.

Due to this prompt opens up trap limit, and platinum head down. Size- date openings
vertically a
v
B 2 , its size horizontally a
h
A, where A and B corresponding loop
step and line height loop.
File updated openings may be increased by introducing in the process of knitting
additional operations in the process of creating a loop. When the necessity of increasing
the size updated openings vertically (as an opening 8 in the series loops 2) increasing
the index closing its traps. This is achieved so that the needle, from which we remove
the loop, not pressed (for example, fine loop XI).

In general the size of updated openings along the vertical is determined according to the
formula
a
v
= B(1+K),
where B-row height loop;
K-index of traps, as repeated in the ranks of the loop (for the
complex or yarn and K 3).
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Figure 26.21. Structure plush interlacement

When the necessity of increasing the size of updated openings horizontally a
h
(a hole 6)
loop sequences adjacent loop transmit in opposite directions: for example, a series of 3-
loop left and loop a series of 4-right.
In this case the needle, designed loop sequences 3 and 4, in order loop II appear in a
common trap, the needle on the team are creating a larger loop (loop rows III and IV). To
create a loop in each row of loops in one of the ways of getting updated openings at one
of the needles, creating twin loop, transfer the adjacent series loop the loop (loop 3 over
to the row IV needle, creating a series loop 3), coupled with another mode of the loop(or
traps) overthrows with a needle.
At the launching of the same basic part of the loop on two adjacent pins(as a series
of loop 5 loop 6 loop and in order) are creating holes up to date with the smaller sizes,
but common: a
v
..B, a
h
<A.
Also during the transmission loop with the needle to an adjacent series of loops along
the loop transfer launching the second loop of the same order of the loop, the knitting of
these sites up to date openings are not created. This type of transmission loop we
get the so-called "crossed".
To remove an opening in the knitting-date (which is for example necessary for the
dissemination of twists by transferring a loop) instead of transmission loop on the needle
slip the loop line above the loop, as shown in figure 26.22 (loop 2 series of loop 5 in a
row loop VII was transferred to the needle launching loop line above the loop VI).


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Figure 26.22. The structure of single-date interlacement knitwear

Through holes in the schedule up to date repeat on the knitting pattern can be obtained
up to date sampled different effects. Openwork interlacement knitwear structure on the
basis of smooth is shown in figure 26.23.
In each row of loops, according to the sample, creating holes up to date, with a single
line loop -loop are transmitted to the adjacent series of left and second-adjacent to a
series of loops on the right. As a result, up to date on the background pattern will have
small pieces of mesh without holes.
The Openwork double knitting interlacement (Figure 26.24) transmission loop can be
executed on one side of the cloth (the transfer of a loop on one needle rail) and from one
side to another (transfer loops from one needle to another bar). Sampled effects based
on openwork knitwear double interlacement manifested in an even greater degree, but
on the basis of single weave, the transfer loop with some pins on the adjacent one and
the same or opposite needle rail, as well as the single interlacement, creating a prompt
opens. File openwork openings vertically a
v
, like in the knitwear interlacement of single
openwork, can be determined by the formula we gave on the previous page. File
openwork openings horizontally ah the knitwear based right-right is smaller than the
single interlacement knitwear, since the right-right interlacement loop sequences in
reverse advocates on the face, traps, closing prompt open up, opens the series of loops
to the right-right twists but the spacing slightly. During the transfer loop with face and
reverse loops on adjacent strings (as openwork in the opening two rows of loops IV and
V and loop arrays 22 and 23) file openwork openings horizontally ah increases, while in
contrast to the single interlacement knitwear gives these openings without additional
operations process of creating a loop, since the traps, its closure, make the needles of
different needle rail.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
A series of loops
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Figure 26.23. The structure of knitwear with openwork sampled effect


On the basis of double weft interlacement receive updates and relief sampled effects.
On the same figure shows the effects of relief on the basis of sampled rightright
interlacement, obtained by transfer loops and needles by exclusion from work.
In one case, the loop transfer on one side of the knitwear: fine loop sequences and
loop the loop on the face of 5, 7 are transmitted to the adjacent side also; loop transmit a
series of five left the pin number 3 and the loop series of 7-right of the ninth series of the
needle After the transfer loop needle loop sequences on the face of 5 and 7 off the
operation. In row loop II analog transmit a series of loops 3 and 9, and after the transfer
of the needle loop is also excluded from the work. In row loop transmission loop III does
not, fine loop IV lines 1 and 11 according transfer needle arrays 3 and 9 and the row 3
and 9 off the operation. In row V loop transmit in the same direction of the loop
sequences 3 and 9, in order loop VI all the pins off the operation. As a result of the yarn
on the back or a series of loops on the basis of the thing according to sample parts of
the knitwear, consisting of the reverse loop.
In the second case of analog samples is achieved by transfer loops from one side to
the other knitwear. As in the previous case, we create relief patterns of the reverse loop
the loop on the basis of individuals, this pattern is associated with openwork holes,
obtained by the inclusion of needle work.


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Figure 26.24. The structure of the double-date interlacement cloth

In figure 26.25, and present the structure of the sample knit twists with relief, Braid,
created by transferring the loop with their junction on one side of the knitwear.
Knitwear is made based on feed back from complex right-right interlacement:
loops series 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 on the face, and the loop sequences1, 2, 3, 10, 11, 12 on the
reverse. In row loop III, loop lines 7, 8, 9 are transmitted to the needle opposing needle
and throwing off the rail lines in the loop IV and V on the reverse side.
Needles, creating a series of loops on the face of 4, 5, 6 and reverse 7, 8, 9, turning to
meet each other, and the order of laying the yarn on the needle arrays 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9
maintained. The ranks of the loop III, IV,V, creating cross-sections smooth interlacement.
In these lines sequences of loops on the face smooth interlacement 4, 5, 6 are crossing
with a series of loops on the reverse, 7, 8, 9 in row loop VI sequence loops 7, 8, 9 are
transmitted to the needle, creating a series of 4, 5, 6 and overthrows further knitwear to
the side of his face, a series of 4, 5, 6 are transmitted to the needle arrays 7, 8, 9 and
also transfer. Smooth parts of the loop intersects the lines III, IV, V, VI, knitwear to
the side of the back, increasing the thickness of the knitwear.
As a result, the yarn loops on the back rows to the back of 1, 2, 3 (left)and 10,
11, 12 (right) create relief patterns in strings of intertwined loops in the form of braids
(Figure 26.25, b).
Features openwork knitwear twists the degree of change in the structure of the
main or derivative interlacement, on the basis of which we get the twists. Rate of change
of the main characteristics of knitted interlacement or derivative determined by the
number of transferred loop, trapping (or hole), moved to the unit area and repeat
to weave cloth. If the number transferred in the knitting loop is not large (up to 10% of
the total number of loops in the sample repeat), it will change its properties to
be insignificant, or the contrary, if the number of transferred loop

Series
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Figure 26.25. Knitwear sampled with relief effect "braid":
a-structure, b-sample scheme

large, it will be features of the base knitwear interlacement significantly change. For
example, to create openings in all string loop knitwear (as figure 26.23) is significantly
reduced its unraveling (difficulty releasing the loop sequences), which is especially
important when making hosiery products. During the transfer of not only the basic parts
of the loop, but the same traps can be removed by knitwear a single series of knitwear
along the loop. In figure 26.26 shows one of the variants of such knitwear. The yarn
traps I and II series of steam loop 2, 4, 6, and so on, in each loop transfer to neighboring
arrays loops in different directions. As a result of each loop in each loop contains the
base of the trap. If the base of loops and traps under the influence of elastic forces tend
to knitwear in the opposite direction, as shown in figure Arrow influence of these forces
in each loop knitwear to balances, and knitting is not knitwear in the region. Knitwear of
these single interlacement rip only in directions contrary to knitting, and can be used as a
single edge hosiery products or collars, belts upper clothing products.
Cloth with a transferred loops have reduced ductility, as contained in the ranks of the
loop not only loops but also the pitfalls, and the degree before tightening yarn from traps
in the bed cloth is always smaller than the base parts of the loop.
Breaking strain of openwork interlacement knitwear is also less than the base knitwear
interlacement, since the degree of orientation parts of the yarn in the loop, opposing the
termination, in the direction of stretching, always lower in places up to date openings.
Accordingly, the devolved parts of the knitwear loops are less ductile,

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Figure 26.26. The structure of knitwear openwork single interlacement with
transferred traps and right knitwear openings openwork "Shotgun"

which results in reducing the degree of uniformity of load distribution by rows and rows of
yarn loops at break, which leads to a reduction of its breaking load.
In knitwear openwork interlacement some basic parts of the loop intersects, therefore
increasing the thickness of knitwear. In particular there is an increase in transmission of
knitwear thickness cross-loop (as shown in figure 26.25). Parts of crossed loop knitwear
in the ranks of the loop III and VI contain the three sets of single-loop interlacement, that,
twisting the back side, substantially increases the thickness of knitwear and, consequen-
tly, relief of the sample.
In figure 26.27 shows another combined a openwork interlacement structure, obtained
for different variants of the transfer loop. Roman numerals shows the number of rows of
loops, and the Arabic number of threads. As we see from the picture, fine and one loop
is transferred from the needle 3 to needle 2 (left) and its adjacent loop-with four pins on
the pin 5 (right). As a result, in rows II, III and IV are creating openings. In row loop IV
second loop from left turns up in the output position, that is, transmitted to the contrary
with the needle 2 to needle 3rd In the ranks of loop VII and IX of the loop transfer with
two needles on the needle 3rd In this case the transfer operation is not executed in any
order, but the queue.
One other combination of structures openwork hole is shown in figure 26.28, a, b, c,
d. From the figure we see that the hole I (Figure, 26.28, a) intersects loop series 2, the
loop is doubled with the loop b. openwork hole trap shut Z. Doubled loop is achieved
transmission loop with the needle 2 to needle 3 (the right transmission) or the needle 2
to needle 1 (left transfer, file 26.28, b). If in a series of loop holes to make more unilateral
transfer (Figure,c), then create an array with inclined loops. We can perform
simultaneous transmission of two loops in a row loop (Figure, 26.28 d, slot I), then the
surface of the hole increases. In figure 26.28 is shown in one openwork circular opening,
which comes to special machine-made lace.
Openwork interlacement cloth can be designed using the computational formula for
knitwear, based on what is produced. We need to take into account that the process of
transferring the loop associated with an increase in the base of the loop basic
interlacement, this increase is necessary for this, what length of yarn in the loop of the
base must be quite accurate to carry out surgeries loops with needles when interacting
with her knitting bodies, and also to transfer the needle loop of the same or opposite
needle plate. The outcome from the above that for knitwear openwork interlacement in
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higher value module loop in comparison with basic interlacement. The degree of
increase in the module loop depends on the development of knitwear openwork
interlacement, construction and refinement of needles knitting machines.
Surface mass openwork interlacement knitwear, made in the transfer loop or crossed
during the transmission loop on the needle without removing the needles, we calculate
the formulas for the basic interlacement. In knitwear, obtained by downloading the loop
with the needle, Openwork open closed snare, whose size is smaller than the yarn in the
loop, creating the needles in the normal process of creating a loop.
From the above follows, that the surface mass knitwear openwork interlacement traps
with less than knitwear base interlacement.
If the R
h
and R

-appropriate height and width of the rectangular feedback from the


sample, expressed in number of rows and loops, and the number openwork-hole, closed
traps in the sample report, it will exceed the length of the sample report to be,

L
R
= ( ) [ ] , 1000 /
z a h
N R R

where -length of yarn in the loop base interlacement;


z
length of the yarn trapped openwork holes -.

Feedback from the sample weight

m
R
= ( ) [ ]
z a h
N R R T
t
/ (10001000).

Surface mass knitwear openwork weave can be determined by the formula

Q = Q
R
n
R
,

where the number of n
R
-repeat sample on the surface of 1m
2
knitwear.
Number repeat established formula

n
R
= 100 G
h
G
v
/ (55 R

R
h
).

Substituting finally we

Q = 410
-4
G
h
G
v
T
t
( ) [ ]/
z a h
N R R ( R

R
h
).

The above formula shows that the surface mass 1m
2
openwork interlacement, made
from yarn certain longitudinal mass at a given density knitting, decreases with increasing
number of holes on the openwork repeat sample and reducing the length trap

z
. Openwork number of openings in the sample repeat can not exceed 0.5 R

R
h
, or 50%
of the sample loop in the repeat.

26.5. Knitwear pineapple interlacement
26.5.1. The structure and properties

Knitwear pineapple called weft interlacement knitwear in which some loops drawn throu-
gh other loops, formed needles, and platinum. (Figure 26.29). In developing knitwear
pineapple interlacement some pinhead loop, created platinum, slip on the plate.
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Openwork holes 2, 3 we get when putting on needle head loop, created by platinum, the
two adjacent needles, open 1, 4-launching the needle head loop, created by platinum,
the one adjacent the needle.
Characteristic of this interlacement is the difference in the amount of base parts of
loops, openwork limited openings. This we associate with it, which is launching the
platinum head loop on the base of the P loop of the head increased. Enlarge platinum
head loop P arises due over strung yarn of two basic loops, connecting with platinum
heads loop P. As a result of this height base loop, associated with platinum heads P
loop, is reduced. The degree of reduction in the amount of base parts of the loop,
associated with the coupling parts, increasing the launching of a platinum head on two
adjacent pins, it also depends of it, for how many rows the loop is stretched platinum
head (connecting part). For example, in openwork opening 3, the connecting part V1,
connecting loop sequences of basic parts II and III, slip on the base of the loop adjacent
rows of loops.
The degree of tightening the base parts of the loop, associated with the coupling parts of
V
1
, is greater than the openwork holes 1 and 4 The openwork opening two connecting
part V
3
puts on the base of the loop sequences adjacent loops V and VI, and, therefore,
stretches for two-line loop, a connecting part V
2
slip-up to the base of the loop adjacent
sequences in the same general line loop. Accordingly, the degree of tightening the base
of the loop, associated with the coupling parts of V
2
and V
3
, will be different in openwork
holes.

Figure 26.28. Openwork interlacement structure


In Knitwear pineapple interlaceent due to lower
height of some basic parts of the loop, except
openwork, create relief effects sampled.
Mesh in knitwear pineapple interlacement as well
as knitwear openwork interlacement is limited. Size
horizontally (width) aperture a
h
A vertical size
(height) a
v
hole is determined, as well as knitwear
openwork interlacement according to the formula we
gave above. Size K in the formula for knitwear
openwork interlacement shows how many rows of the
extended loop connecting part in openwork opening.

Knitwear pineapple interlacement can be obtained
based on single or double major, and performed weft
interlacement. In designing knitwear pineapple
interlacement- derived weft based on the effects of
increasing the volume sampled. If the knitwear
performed among rows of loops interlacement -interlacement a series loop also of the
same interlacement, connecting parts, cutting the loop sequences, can be conveyed in
different directions and at various needle knitting machines.

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e

Figure 26.28. Openwork structure openings

If, for example, transfer connecting part derived smooth weave the needles that do not
operate in a given knitting system, and then connecting parts interfere with another yarn
knitting system, creating pineapple interlacement, as shown in Figure 26.30. In its
manufacture steam series loops base derived smooth interlacement knit from the yarn,
the yarn from the odd-b If you move the connecting parts formed from yarn and b each
knitting system, in which needles do not work, as shown in figure arrow, and then
transferred to connecting the parts interlacement together into a loop with yarn of a given
system, each loop knitwear will be composed of two yarns: Yarn, involved in a given
system, and connective parts, is transferred to the needle.
Provided knitwear to its structure and properties similar is knitwear elementary clad
knitted interlacement.
Knitwear pineapple interlacement master surface greater weight, but knitwear, on
whose basis they create. This explains the time, which is the length of yarn, which
comes to an interchange with the ported platinum head (connecting part), higher than in
of elongation (growth) depends on the interface of methods for making knitwear
pineapple interlacement.
Surface mass knitwear pineapple interlacement can be determined by the formula
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Q = 410
-4
G
h
G
v
T
t
[ R

R
h
+n
R
]/ R

R
h
,

where - increase the length of yarn in the loop during the transmission of platinum
head (bonding parts);
n
R
-number of loops in repeat samples from the devolved parts of the midfield.
From the formula given below, the surface mass pineapple knitwear, made from yarn
certain longitudinal mass at a given density of knitting, with increases by increasing the
number of loops in the repeat of the sample with a transferred coupling parts (or the
number of openwork holes) and increase the length of yarn in the loop
.


Figure 26.29. Single File Structure twists Figure 26.30. The structure of pineapple cloth
pineapple interlacement interlacement constructed on the basis
of double



27. Smooth double knitwear
27.1. Rib, its structure and properties
27.1.1.Structure Rib

A characteristic feature of the structure and appearance of double interlacement is the
appearance of lines and loops on the reverse face. Sequences of the loop on the thing
on the front needle -needle plate, the reverse of the last needle -needle plate. After
removal of knitwear machines left with a series of loops to draw the right strings, so that
we see with both the right strings. Knitwear stretching across the width is clearly
observed and left a series of loops. The knitwear is also called and left-right by creating
the right-right machinery, as well as to conduct knitwear by removing from the machine.
According to the classification of the interlacement share on Ribbed or right-right and
right-left interlacement.
Rib also can be called two-faced double-weft interlacement, in which both sides with
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alternating rows of loops are changing the face and reverse. Repeat removal of this
repeat call. Depending on the order of sequencing string loop on the face and reverse to
repeat distinguish Rib 1+2, 2+2, 2+1, 3+2 and so on. The first issue of this record shows
the number of threads loops on the face, distributed sequenced, and one-number on the
reverse.
Rib interlacement (Figure 27.1, a), in addition to the structure of the loop, we can
graphically (b) the technical cartridge (c). As we see technical cartridge is composed of
rectangles and squares. The rectangle indicates the needle in the needle front platform,
and a square needle in the back of the needle platform. In our case, we took a total of
four needle -needle front plate and 4 pins last needle plate. Series of loops that are
created on the front pins showing on the face with a conditional designation "vertical line"
a series of loops in the back of the needle plate showing the reverse conditional
designation "crescent".
The Rib 1+1 loop sequences on the face and reverse sorted through one. In figure
27.1 shows the structure of such a interlacement (three projections). As we see from the
picture, a series loops of turns for the loop half horizontally relative number of second
loop .


27.1.2. Properties and parameters Rib interlacement

Unraveling. Positive income properties Rib 1+1, unlike the right-left-smooth
interlaceme- nt is that, as he unravels only in the opposite direction of knitting. At
break yarn in one of the loops, which corresponds to their number of loops, steam is just
top down, that is, in the opposite direction of knitting.
At break loops in the Rib with other related series of loops on the obverse and reverse
can rip in either direction, while the lower end of such Ribbed always fixed
.
Expansibility. As a positive feature Ribbed appears its a very good extension in
width. Rib 1+1 Expands width by almost 3.5 times more than its length. Under the
influence of elastic forces obstructed loop sequences on the face of approaching each
other, after which the Rib stress rapidly reducing the width by taking on the original
shape and size. These features Ribbed widely used in the process of knitwear products
and their parts, which can be a good stretch in width and also with those that lie down
the maximum to the body.
In determining the tensile ribbed in the breadth, we consider the loop distributed the
obverse and reverse twists.
In figure 27.2 shows the structure Ribbed 1:1, stretched across. As we see from the
picture, the length of the loop Ribbed in a given case consists of slots 1-2, 2-3, 3-4, 4-5,
and 5-6.
Slots 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, generate half the maximum step loop, that is, A
max
/ 2, slots 2-3
and 4-5 in the sum of the volume created in diameter, equal to 3d.
Ribbed loop length, stretched in width, will be

= A
max
/ 2 +3 d,

where the

A
max
= 2 (-3d).

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Accordingly, Ribbed extensibility across the width of two times greater than the tensile
smooth knitwear, and its extension in length is the same as in the smooth knitwear.

Twisting and width of knitwear. Rib and equal distribution of loop strings in the face
and reverse of the repeat, such as 1+1, 2+2, for unlike the right-left-smooth
interlacement not twist from the ends. This is explained by the elastic force acting in the
series of loops on the face of balancing these forces acting on the reverse loop.
With multiple loops on the reverse sequences (series), which are arranged
sequenced. Rib, and a smooth interlacement, twist the ends of the cross to the other
side, where he was assigned a higher number of threads loops on the face.
Action of elastic forces in the series loop Ribbed affects its width, since under the
influence of these forces is a series of loops on the reverse to rally behind the series of
face. The Rib 1+1 and loop sequences of one side stands for a series of half loops on
the face of others. Then we determine the width Ribbed taking into account the setting
loop without it.
Without the participation of setting the width of the loop Ribbed described as 1+1


p
= An,
where
p
-beam Ribbed;
A- step loops;
n-number of loops in a row.

Taking into account setting loops in each other for the size of 0.5 A, width Ribbed 1+1
will be


p
= An / 2

From the above follows that the same conditions of preparation (making) Beam
Ribbed 1+1 in the free state for two times smaller than the width of the smooth
interlacement.
Rib a significant percentage of interference by removing from the machine, that is, the
width of the free state is much less than its width in the preparation of the machine. This
is necessary to take into account in the calculation of its production.
Density. density Ribbed also like a smooth interlacement, characterized in two
directions: horizontally and vertically. Density and horizontal lines determine the number
of loops per unit length, usually 50mm. Such a density is called real, and we characterize
it in one of the twists as G
h
', on the other side as G
h
''.
When calculating the theoretical density Ribbed horizontally determined by step m
loops A or loop width a.
Hence, it is necessary to take into account that the width Ribbed same step only in
Rib loop that varies in quality, made from elastic yarns (it loops and lines on his face with
both sides touching). Then the density of such Ribbed horizontally and its corresponding
step loop, in accordance with the theory of knitting, called conditional and mark the
appropriate G
h
.u and A
u
.
Conditional step loop Au determined, based on cross diameter d, and accept the A.S.
Dalidovich equal 4d. Conditional density horizontally G
h.u
find the formula

G
h.u
= 50/a, or G
h.u =
50/A .

For Rib with different alteration of the repeat loop sequences on the face and reverse
determine the reduced density horizontally. Called reduced density horizontally Ribbed
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any repeat, repeat the above by 1+1. Reduced density denote G
h.r
.
Reduced density horizontally calculated by following step loop, which according to the
theory of knitting is equal to approximately 5d.

G
h.r
= 50/A
r
.



Figure 27.1. Ribbed structure of a 1 +1; graphic-b; technical patron-c




Figure 27.2. Ribbed structure of 1+1, stretched across the width



r
o
w


r
o
w


r
o
w


r
o
w

Seriess
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The Ribbed, made from high quality yarn and with a small loop module, the reduced
density horizontally initially equal to the conditional, but in the process of carrying it
decreases, as knitwear gradually loses its elasticity.
Among the reduced density and real-Ribbed there following dependency:

G
h.r
= (G
h
+ G
h
) 1-1/N
R
,

where-N
R
-number sequences in the repeat loop.

Ribbed vertical density is determined, based on its conditional density and the ratio of
density, which for Rib adopt 0.865, that is

G
v
= G
h
.
u
/C = G
h.u/
0,865.

Practical density Ribbed vertically we find at one of its pages by calculating the
number of horizontal rows of loops on knitwear unit length of 50 mm for example.
The length of yarn in the loop. Theoretical length of yarn in the loop Ribbed
determined by the formula, which we use to calculate the length of yarn in the loop of
smooth interlacement:
= 78,5/G
h.u
+ + +
2 2
2 d B d.

As we see from the formula, the length of yarn in the loop Ribbed found, starting from
the conditional density horizontally G
h.u
.
Practical length of yarn in the loop we find Ribbed tearing a line loop, where the
number of loops unraveling calculated with both of its sides:

=
( )
,
, , ,
n n
L
+


where L-length of yarn in the right loop;
n'-number of loops, unraveling Ribbed on one side;
n''-local loop, on the other hand unraveling Ribbed.

Surface mass 1m
2
. Ribbed mass determined by his or occupied area, or the number
of loops in the product.
Weight knitwear at its occupied area is also calculated, and the mass of smooth
knitwear. The peculiarity of the budget consists in the fact that the density Ribbed take
the side of the face and reverse Ribbed, respectively.

Q = 0,8
( )
.
1000
' ' '
t v h h
T G G G +


As we mentioned above in the preparation Ribbed we can use a different
arrangement of needles in the front and back needle plat. So for example in figure 27.3
shows the structure of the schedule Ribbed series loop, or needles, two on-site, two on
the back side, one on the face, two on the back side and one on the face
(2+2+1+2). Below the interlacement structure is shown schematically (structural) view
interlacement and distribution of needles in the front and back needle plat. Red items are
marked with pins that are out of work position. This interlacement is made on a large
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circular knitting machines. Figure 27.4 shows the picturesque view of making this
interlacement with a cylindrical (vertical) and Saucer (horizontal) wires.
In figure 27.5 shows the smooth Rib 1:1 with the structure of the loop (d), graphic
presentation loops (b and c), and technical cartridge (s) with thick vertical lines indicate
the sequences of loops on the face, and the thinner vertical line, which means a series
of loops on the reverse. The scheme marks left V and O are indicated by right and left,
or series of loops on the obverse and reverse, which is alternately sorted.
Figure 27.6 shows the sampled Rib 2:2, the structure of the loop (d), graphic display
loop (c) scheme (a) and cartridge (b).
In figure 27.7 shows the Rib 3:4:3:1 (a) and knitted "Pleated" (f). One example of
knitted yarn Ribbed with flotation is shown in Figure 27.8.




Figure 27.3. Ribbed structure with graphics loop
and schedule or schedules of needles

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Figure 27.4. Showing interference exceeds the
cylindrical and needle-Plate (Dial)



Figure 27.5. Smooth Rib 1:1





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Figure 27.6. Sampled Rib 2:2



Figure 27.7. Ribbed 3:4:3:1 (a), and knit "Pleated" (b-f)



Figure 27.8. Ribbed with flotation





II-sampled row
rowrow
I-sampled row
rowrow
sampled
A row 2
color
ribbed
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Figure 27.9. Bi-color and tri-sampled Rib



Figure 27.10. Illustration of a Rib knitwear with plasticized sampling



sampled row sampled row
color
color
I
-
s
a
m
p
l
e
d

r
o
w

I
I
-
s
a
m
p
l
e
d

r
o
w

I
-
s
a
m
p
l
e
d

r
o
w

color
I-sampled row
II-sampled row
color
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Figure 27.11. Different variants of excavated (hollow) interlacement





Figure 27.12. Graphic representation of clad Figure 27.13. Openwork
interlacement with the position of the half loop interlacement
body pins and placed the yarn core and
plated head pins

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In figure 27.13 shows a combination of openwork Ribbed.
In figure 27.14 shows examples of different combinations Ribbed with
graphics and structure of the interlacement repeat across.




a)

b)

c)



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d)


e)

Figure 27.14. Different combinations of Rib interlacement with Schematic
showing the interlacement structure a)-e).


28. Double Rib, or interlock interlacement,
their structure and properties
28.1. Structure double Rib interlacement

Double Rib, interlock or cross-weave term derived Ribbed, or right, right, in which each
link two right-right interlacement, in which the connecting parts of the loops are crossing
each other. This interlacement in our area is known as "Crossed working persons",
namely called as Rib interlacement face, because as we mentioned above, with both
sides to see his face loops. In the English literature is known as "interlock" or cross
interlacement.
In figure 1.28, and shows the structure of interlock interlacement. It can be seen that a
series of loops on the obverse and reverse, obtained from the black yarn, is one Rib
1+1, and strings, made of white yarn Rib-second 1+1. Yarn black and white, needle
passing from one plot to another, junction each other. Schedule of needles in a
cylindrical needle flesh is scheduled 1+1 (a needle with a long handle, a needle with a
short handle, and so on). In needle plot, which is located above the cylindrical needle
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plot, the arrangement of needles is also 1+1, provided that the distribution of the first pin
with a short handle, the second needle with a long handle, and so on. In this way we get
the schedule of needles such that the long handle against the pins in a cylindrical plot
need is a needle in a short handle plate needle plot. How the two systems involved in
the creation of a complete line loops (one loop system creates only a short needle shank
and a cylindrical disk needle plot, and the other system just to handle the long needles
of both needle plot), avoided the possibility that in the process of knitting needles
cylindrical needle plot collide with needles plated needle plot, which is intolerable,
because in that case there was a fracture of needles and knitting other bodies involved
in the process of knitting. With this way of getting knitwear production machine is half
that, since the creation of a complete line loop part two knitting systems.
Unlike Ribbed, with the interlock loops and arrays, under any circumstances do not
occur (see), so that both sides of the knitwear see only loop face, how is it received and
the name of hypocrites.


28.1.1. Properties and parameters interlock interlacement

Unraveling. Interlock, and Rib, unravel, or money, only in directions opposite
knitting. Interlock is considerably less money, but Rib, which is explained by peculiarities
of its structure.
Thickness. Interlock knitwear has considerable thickness, which is approximately
equal thickness Ribbed. This explains the features of its structure and appearance of its
positive features, since the air contained in its structure, increases its heat-protective
properties, which is especially important for development and exploitation of products for
underwear and sports.



Figure 28.1. Interlock interlacement structure with graphics


Thickness knitwear is directly proportional to the longitudinal mass of yarn, from which
he made knitwear. For example, the thickness of knitwear-made from cotton yarn with
needle bearing cylinder
- needle bearing plate Dial
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twist coefficient = 90-112, is equal to,

M
p.p
= 7,2 T
t
/1000.

The thickness of the artificial-made knitwear for yarn twist coefficient = 16-20 is
equal to

M
v.p
= 4,3 T
t
/1000.

In determining the thickness of the sample knitwear, as well as in other types of
interlacement, it is necessary to apply the same conditions, that is, to provide tensile
strength equal to the sample knitwear.
Surface mass 1m
2
knitwear. Mass 1m
2
determined by the same formula as in
the Ribbed
Q = 810
-4
G
v
G
h
T
t
.

The length of yarn in the loop. The length of yarn in the loop consists of the sum of the
parts ab, bcd, de, and efg (Figure 28.1,a). In contrast to the long loop of smooth interla
cement, where parts of bcd and efg equal de, in these parts interlock loops or bends
can be of different length.
Thus, for example, if the interlock cotton knitwear arches, or a pin head, each equal in
length, it will interlock knitwear, made from synthetic yarns, onion efg be less than the
arc bcd. This explains the time, the thickness of the synthetic yarn almost twice smaller
than its width. Then the length of the interlock loop, made from cotton yarn, determine
the formula for smooth interlacement the conditions, the step loops interlock , A
i
= 3,5d
and the width of the loop a
i
= 4d.

The density of horizontally. Density horizontally G
h
basically depends on the
thickness of the yarn, from which he made knitwear, and to a lesser degree than the
length of yarn in the loop. If the yarn thick and rough, it will be a greater length of the
loop, the lower density of knitwear and size of step loop A.
Calculate the density and horizontal loop through steps A or practical determination of
the sample knitwear. In determining the density of horizontally, it is necessary to take
into account that the knitwear 1+1 adjacent loops in adjacent rows shifted vertically by
0.5 B (half the height of order the loop). Then the sum of the two-step interlock loop, is
smaller than in Ribbed for yarn thickness d, I.e,

2A
i
+d = 2A
p
,

where A
i
-step loop interlock knitwear;
A
p
-step loop Rib knitwear 1-1.

If we accept that the step loops Ribbed 1+1, equal to 4d, it will be under the same
conditions for making interlock be 3d.
Based on step loop, the density and horizontal can be calculated by the formula

G
v
= 50 / A.

The density of vertically. Density Vertical G
v
in a considerable degree characterized by
the external form knitwear. She, the density of horizontally, depending on the length of
the loop and the thickness of the yarn, from which it is made knitwear. If the higher loop
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length and thickness of the yarn, the smaller density vertically.
The density of the vertical can be determined and practical, or by calculating the row
height loop B.
When calculating the row height and density of the loop vertically manage the density
and horizontal G
h
, step loops A and C density ratio:

B = A/C; G
v
= G
h
/C.

Density ratio of 1+1 for the interlock knitwear usually is between 0.865 to 1.3.
Since this ratio depends on stretchable knitwear, the smaller the coefficient C (higher
density vertically), the smaller extension. To obtain a knitwear with greater flexibility of it
is necessary to increase the coefficient C, that is, reduce the density of vertically.
When designing knitwear garments for the upper coefficient C is recommended to be
chosen from 0.865 to 0.9, the machine of 1+1 to 1.2.To obtain a simple product
coefficient C can be brought up to 1.3.
In a given loop length, density and thickness of the horizontal cross, the vertical
density can be determined according to formulas:
for interlock cotton knitwear
G
v
= ;
6 , 3
90
100
d
G
h



the interlock knitwear from artificial yarns
G
v
=
d
G
h
5 , 1
90
100



While designing knitwear interlock recommend to take the module loop m: to interlock
knitwear 1+1 out of cotton-35 and less, the experts yarn-30 and less.
Extensibility. Significant elastic stretchable knitwear is one of its characteristic
features and positive characteristics. Due to the tensile elastic knitwear interlock gets
widely used in making machine, the upper and the production of gloves.
The products, made from knitwear, they are comfortable to wear, knitwear fitting body
and hinders movement.
In bed by the width of knitwear that is shorter in length. These take into account when
tailoring knitwear, according to the increase in product size, which can be shortened in
their bed in the process of wear.
Extensibility of cotton knitwear

. 75
10
7 , 13
1 5 , 1
3
|

\
|
=
t
h
T
G
From artificial silk
G
v
=
d
G
h
5 , 1
90
100



In figure 28.2 is given a different graphic look interlock knitwear, that is, the position of
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Belleville and the cylinder needles. Figure 28.3 shows the interlock interlacement Pin
tuck and some graphical and technical interlacement structure cartridge. Figure.28.4
shows the double interlock hollow pike with graphics, structure and technical cartridge.



Figure 28.2. Position of needles in a cylindrical and needle for the main plot
interlock interlacement needles in the schedule of 1+1.

On the following image shows the different types of interlock interlacement with graphics,
interlacement structure an technical cartridge with adjustable knitting machines for the
same systems and needles in a cylindrical and needle plot.
Conditional tag is indicated by the needle work loop, trap or outside working position,that
is the knitting position, the catch and a circular motion.
These types of interlacement can be successfully manufactured on large and small
circular knitting machines which are equipped with a suitable means for sampling.






















Cylindrical needle
plated needle
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Figure 28.3. The diagram, structure and technical cartridge interlock pin
tuck and interlacement











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Figure 28.4. The diagram, structure and technical cartridge interlock
double hollow Pike

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29. Knitting machines
29.1. Flat knitting machine with one needle bearing

Flat knitting machine with one needle bearing are the simplest knitting machines, with
which I now use in local handicrafts, mainly as a jacquard machine with a highly comput
erized technique for knitting machine-driven, although there is still a simple machine
that can run manually.
In figure 29.1 gives the appearance of a needle plate, or needle bearings (a) with
cross cross section (b), a needle mount -1, edge comb-2, the bottom chamber-3, a
bridge-4, repulsive edge-5,edge-comb 6, needle-track 7,spring-8, the needle foot-9, rail-
10,plate-11.
In figure 29.2 shows the needle holder with a removable bridge. figure 29.3 shows a
needle holder with a removable repellent edge.



Figure 29.1. The appearance of a needle plate or needle bearings (a)
and section (b)



Figure 29.2. Needle holder with a removable bridge

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29.3. Needle holder with a removable rotating edge

29.1.1. Needle technology: latch needles
Modern Flat knitting machine use either latch or compound needles. The figure (29.4)
shows a wire latch needle with the following key:
1. Latch
2. Spoon of the latch
3. Pivot of the latch
4. Shank of the needle
5. Butt of the needle


Figure 29.4. Wire latch needle
In the figure 29.5. shown is the
transfer needle brush 1 to open the needles and
yarn guide 2, with the opening of crossing the
sea to find the exact intersection of two needles
raised to highest positionon.
Figure 29.5. Transfer needles in a right-
right flat knitting machine
Wire needles are formed from flattened round
section carbon steel wire. The alternative is to
punch the needle from a thin sheet of carbon
steel; such needles are called plate needles.



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29.1.2. Needle technology: compound needles


Figure 29.6. Compound needles

The compound needle (29.6) has two separate components: the hook and shank (shown
in white) and the sliding closing element (shown in grey).
Whilst the latch is opened and closed by contact with the knitted loop the compound
needle must be opened and closed by relative displacement between the hook and the
closing element. The current generation of latch and compound needles are the result of
continuous engineering development and improvement since the 1940s. They operate at
high knitting speeds (in excess of 2,000 reciprocations/minute) and are capable of
producing hundreds of millions of fault-free stitches before failure. A visit to the Groz
Beckert website provides additional information.

29.1.3. How knitting


a) b) c)
Figure 29.7. Knitting action: a) to c)

The latch needle is displaced by the inclined planes of the cam system and reciprocates
along its axis to convert the yarn into a series of knitted stitches.

*The figures show the three stages of stitch formation.
*Firstly (as shown in a, figure 29.7) as the needle moves forward the old loop (green)
forces the latch to open, the old loop moves out of the hook across the latch and onto
the shank of the needle (clearing) and the new yarn (violet) is fed into the hook.
*Secondly (as shown in b) the needle moves back and the old loop (green) causes the
latch to close.
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*Thirdly (as shown in c) the needle hook then draws the new yarn (violet) through the old
loop and the old loop drops off the needle (knock-over).
Knitting action: 2
The figure sequence shows this knitting action.


Figure 29.8. Knitting action (a)

The figure 29.8,a shows the knitwear represented by two stitches positioned against the
tip of the verge of the needle bed. It is important that the knitwear remains in this position
and does not move forward with the needle as the needle moves towards the clearing
position. Usually the knitwear is maintained in the position by the take-down force on the
kniitwear, or by contact with holding sinkers.


Figure 29.9. Knitting action (b)



Figure 29.10. Knitting action (c)

The figure 29.9- 29.10,b and c show the needle just about to reach the clearing position
as the old loop moves off the latch onto the shank of the needle.
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Figure 29.11. Knitting action (d)

This figure 29.11,d shows the new yarn being fed across the needle latch by the feeder.



Figure 29.12. Knitting action (e)

As the needle retracts (Figure 29.12,e) the old loop contacts the latch and causes it to
pivot closed.


Figure 29.13. Knitting action (f)

The figure 29.13, f shows the new yarn trapped in the hook and the old loop about to be
cast off the needle. This action is called knock-over.
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Figure 29.14. Knitting action (g)

The compound needle reciprocates to form stitches in a similar way to the latch needle
but the needle must be closed prior to knock-over by displacing the closing element
towards the hook and opened prior to yarn feeding by moving the closing element in the
opposite direction (Figure 29.14, g).
29.2. Needle-bed technology

The needles slide in slots or tricks cut (Figure 29.15) into rigid needle beds, which
maintain the orientation and spacing of the needles and support them when they impact
with the cam system. The front edge (verge) of the needle bed also acts as a knock-over
support by helping to maintain the position of the knitwear during knock-over.


Figure 29.15. Needles in tricks


The position of the needle can be seen in the following figure 29.16.
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Figure 29.16. V-bed- flat knitting machine

The reciprocal of the needle pitch is called the gauge of the machine and it is
universally expressed in needles/inch. On a V-bed machine, the two needle beds are
arranged in a V' configuration (Figure 29.17). The interactions between the yarn and the
knitting elements that create the knitwear occur at the apex of the V and the knitwear
moves away downward between the two beds, drawn down by the take-down system.


Figure 29.17. Needles in V-bed

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The tricks in the opposing beds are arranged so that the needles can pass between
each other during loop formation. This arrangement of the beds is called rib gaiting
(Figure 29.18). If the beds are arranged so that the tricks are directly opposite one
another and the needles would impact with one another the arrangement is called
interlock gaiting (or half rack on V-bed machines). In general terms only alternate
needles in each bed can be reciprocated.


Figure 29.18. Rib gaiting


29.2.1. Sinker technology

The latest V-bed machines may be equipped with holding-down sinkers (platinum)
positioned between the needles in each needle bed (Figure 29.19). Sinkers are
manufactured from thin sheets of carbon steel and they pivot between the trick slots.
The sinkers help (Figure 29.20) to hold the knitwear in position down between the
needle beds during the clearing part of the knitting cycle and are particularly effective
when selected needles along the bed are producing loops at a faster rate than others,
i.e. during multiple tucking or holding (see module V-bed knitwear structures) when
knitwear is not being produced uniformly across the width of the machine. During the
knock-over part of the needle cycle, the sinkers retract so that the knock-over of the old
loops can take place.

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Figure 29.19. Holding down sinker




Figure 29.20. The appearance of the original machine-sinker and knitwear


29.2.2. Feeder technology

Yarn is fed to the needle array via a feeder that culminates in a tube or bore to precisely
position the yarn. The feeder is fixed to a feeder block that slides along a feeder rail
located above the needle bed. Modern machines typically have four feeder rails with 4/6
knitting feeders/rail.
The feeder precedes the needle movement across the bed in such a way that the yarn
is placed across the open latch of the needle during the clearing displacement so that
when the needle retracts and the latch closes the yarn is trapped in the hook.
On the majority of machines, the feeders are moved and positioned by the carriage
movement but on some of the very latest machines the feeder blocks have their own
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linear drive systems so that they can be moved and positioned independently of the
carriage.
It is important for high quality knitting with a minimum of faults that the yarn should be
fed to the needle at a very low tension (see the module Yarn tension, cam forces and
robbing back).
For this reason most machines have devices to assist the yarn on its way to the
needle and minimize the frictional forces that develop when a yarn contacts any surface
as it changes direction (see the module V-bed quality control). These are called assisted
feed systems (see the module Positive and assisted feed systems).

29.2.3. Cam technology
The needle displacements necessary for knitting together with the closing element
displacements in the case of compound needles and the sinker movements are all
derived from cam systems that traverse the machine and are located within the carriage.
In essence the butts of the needle are caused to impact with the inclined plane of the
cam system and the reaction forces cause the needle to move in the required direction
for the required displacement.
Figure 29.21. Movement of the needle at the
edge of the pickup locks (raising
cam) with vertical components of force
For example, in the figure 29.20 the cam moves
from the right and strikes the projecting butt of the
needle. The normal reaction force r between the butt
and the cam generates a vertical component of
force upwards of Fr cos together with a vertical
component downwards of Fr sin a. The cam angle a
is designed in such a way that Fr cos > Fr sin and
the needle moves upwards. However the balance of
forces within the knitting zone is complex and the
choice of cam angle has a profound effect on the
quality of the knitwear. This topic is dealt with in the
module Yarn tension, cam forces and robbing back.
The cam system on a v-bed machine reciprocates
and therefore the cam system must allow the needle to travel through in either direction.
For this reason V-bed cam systems are essentially symmetrical (Figure 29.22).

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Figure 29.22. Carriage movement and its influence on knitting

The needle then tracks through the cam system as shown by the blue line in the
following figure 29.23.


Figure 29.23. Cam plates and knitting carriage

29.2.4. Stitch size and stitch cam adjustment

Because knitting machines must be able to knit yarns of different diameter (count) as
well as knit knitwear of different quality (tightness) it is necessary to provide a means of
adjusting the size of the knitted loop.
The primary way of doing this is to adjust the vertical position of the lowering or stitch
cam to pull a longer or shorter loop. The final size of the loop is dependant on other
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variables as well, including yarn input tension and take-down tension as well as cam
angle and this interaction is explained in depth in the module Yarn tension, cam forces
and robbing back.

29.2.5. Take-down technology

On the most basic V-bed machines a roller traction system pulls the fabric down
between the needle beds to provide the take-down tension necessary to maintain the
position of the old loop against the verge of the needle bed during the clearing
displacement.
Such systems work well when the knitwear is produced at a uniform rate across the
needle bed. When more complex knitting actions take place so that different sections of
the needle bed produce knitwear at different rates, for example in knitwear shaping (see
the module Garment manufacture on V-bed machines), the roller take-down is unable to
apply uniform tension. In this situation sinker control is the best solution although other
solutions such as differential segmented rollers and paddle take-down systems have
been introduced to help solve the problem.
Modern take-down systems use DC motor or servo motor control in order to apply
consistent take-down traction. The take-down tension has an important impact on the
quality and consistency of the knitted product and this is dealt with in more depth in the
module Yarn tension, cam forces and robbing back.
29.2.6. Roller take-down systems

The knitwear is drawn downward from the needle beds and passes between the grip
formed by the roller and counter-roller. The roller is composed of freely-turning sectional
rollers on a common shaft. Each roller is preset and spring-tensioned as the shaft turns
under the influence of a DC motor. Adjustable pressure rollers maintain the pressure grip
of each sectional roller.
The system operates most successfully on a knitwear with a consistent width and a
balanced knitted loop arrangement, both between the two needle beds and within each
bed. As tension is exerted equally on all wales within the roller grip, those not gripped (at
the selvedges if the fabric is being widened) will not be subject to tension, while held
loops will receive excessive tension. Other wales, where more continuous knitting
occurs, tend to receive insufficient tension. Thus, the mechanical arrangement tends to
give variable tension during shaping and designs that involve multiple tuck accumulation
or holding loops over a number of courses.
The roller drive speed can be selected from as many as 31 possibilities and can be
stopped during needle bed racking and rib loop transfer, or it can be reversed to achieve
zero fabric tension whenever required during the knitting programmer.
Modern machines have a computer-programmed, positive-drive take-down system, the
operation of which is synchronized with the requirements of the knitting programmer,
which delivers pre-determined knitwear tension as required. Sometimes, small sub-
rollers provide a nip immediately below the gap in the needle beds. The main control is
provided by the nip formed by the take-down roller and the counter-roller that presses
against its surface. The counter-roller is segmented, consisting of individual rollers that
are each spring adjusted.
Shima Seiki's modern knitwear take-down system features two sets of independently
adjustable rollers, which provide smooth and even knitwear take-down, while the sub-
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rollers are positioned in close proximity to the apex of the needle bed. This offers
optimum control over knitwear take-down and the efficient production of quality knitted
twists.

29.2.6.1.Take-down systems
Stitch comb take-down systems

When changing from a narrow width at the end of one garment panel to a panel with a
wider starting width, there will be a lack of take-down tension and knitwear control at the
selvedges with normal take-down rollers, even with a draw-thread connection. If the
pieces are not connected together, there will be no take-down tension. The most
common solution is to employ a take-down comb in addition to the conventional take-
down rollers; this rises automatically and engages its pins with the set-up course of the
new garment piece.
The most reliable comb take-down systems employ needles, which face outward
sideways. However they have a tendency to snag on the edges of the knitted twists and
fail to release, resulting in lowered quality and consistency. Shima Seiki's patented take-
down comb employs a fully active row of forward-facing set-up needles, which provide
even take-down for consistent fabric quality.

Paddle take-down systems
Paddle take-down systems consist of front and rear panels over which tiny pins are
distributed that separately control the take-down tension at the front and back when
knitting whole garment knitwear. In addition, each panel is separated into sections,
which can be individually controlled across the entire width of the garment.

29.3. Needle selection I

Clearly if all the needles in a knitting machine carry out exactly the same movements for
every cycle of the machine then a uniform regular structure is produced. If it is necessary
to change the structure between cycles or it is desired to introduce patterning then it is
necessary to be able to select needles to act differently from the rest. This action
requires a needle selection system. The effect of such selection will be discussed in the
modules V-bed machine knitwear structures and Circular machine knitwear structures.
The simplest form of needle selection involves equipping the needles with different
heights of butts (for example, high and low butts) and the diagram illustrates the high
and low butt needles following different paths through the cam system.
In this example, the red needles have high butts and the blue needles have low butts.
The high butt needles follow the blue path and the low butt needles follow the red path.
The high butt needles will produce knit loops and the low butt needles will miss' the yarn
and produce miss loops.

29.4. Needle selection II electronic

High and low butt selection in conjunction with yarn color changes is capable of
producing very attractive and interesting twists but it does not allow shaping or stitch
transfer to take place or the creation of jacquard twists or integral garments.
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In order to carry out such complex selection it is necessary to be able to act on each
needle independently so that it may carry-out one of the four possible knitting actions of:
Knit
Tuck
Miss
Transfer
Such selection systems are usually called jacquard selection systems and they allow
each needle in each bed to perform one of the above four actions at each cycle of the
machine.
Modern selection systems usually operate by placing an auxiliary selection element
called a selector below the needle in the same trick and acting on the selector by means
of an electro-magnet to cause it to place the needle so that it may follow one of the four
actions.
The diagram (Figure 29.24) shows the needle with a selector (7) pivoted into it. The
selector butt (8) replaces the normal needle butt and allows the needle to be displaced
directly by the cam system for simple structures. The selector butt (6) is movable and it
may be positioned using electromagnetically positioned deflectors in such a way that the
needle can be displaced to knit, miss, tuck or transfer as appropriate.



Figure 29.24. Elements in a needle bed of a machine having full electronic selection






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29.5. Stitch transfer

Many knitted knitwear structures, for example purl knitting, or fashion shaping on the v-
bed machine requires stitches to be removed from the needle on which they were
created and replaced on a different needle either on the same needle bed or on a
adjacent needle bed or parking bed.
Stitch transfer is a delicate and critical process because a dropped stitch during
transfer will create a fault that will ruin the knitwear or garment panel. It is not possible to
transfer a stitch directly onto an adjacent needle on the same needle bed. The stitch is
transferred from one needle to an opposing needle on the opposite bed and then, via a
lateral movement or racking of the opposing bed, the reverse action will move the stitch
back onto a different needle on the original bed. In order to facilitate stitch transfer, the
machine is usually equipped with transfer needles that have a stitch spreader on the
shank of the needle.

29.5.1. Racking

When one needle bed is displaced laterally in relation to the other the process it is called
racking. Racking is an integral part of stitch transfer. It may also be used to form fancy
stitch structures as well as advanced stitch effects such as cables, see module V-bed
machine knitwear structures

29.5.2. Machine control (introduction)

All modern v-bed machines have an on-board microprocessor to store the knitting
instructions and carry out all the control actions necessary for the machine to function.
Most machine builders provide CAD stations where the knitting program can be
assembled, most often from a library of pre-written knitting sequences. The process of
programming a machine is often complex and time consuming, and it is advisable for
programmers to attend courses provided by the machine builder before attempting to
programmer a machine.
Although most machines have extensive security interlocks built into the control
software, it is still possible to cause considerable damage to such a sophisticated
machine through incorrect programming.


30. Machine architecture / construction I

The modern V-bed knitting machine (Figure 30.1) is a highly engineered, fully
automated, electronically controlled, precision knitting system.
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Figure 30.1. Stoll CMS machine

The machine shown above is a member of the Stoll CMS family of machines. The
knitting needles, beds and other active elements are enclosed within sliding covers to
reduce noise and fiber contamination and to enhance safety.
30.1. Machine architecture / construction II

The main features of the machine are simplified in the line figure 30.2. A solidly built
machine frame supports the two rigid needle beds. The two cam systems are contained
within the carriage. The yarn supply is situated above the machine and the yarn is fed to
the needles via yarn feeders that slide along feeder rails above the needle beds. The
knitwear passes between the two needle beds and is controlled by the take-down rollers.
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Figure 30.2. V-bed knitting machine

The machine has its own on-board control and programming computer and the CMS
range of machines have an LCD monitor display built into the sliding machine covers.
Normally in a production environment these machines are networked and knitting
programs can be downloaded from the CAD/programming stations directly to the
machine's computer. Equally, production statistics can be collected centrally.
30.2. Intarsia flat knitting machines
In figure 30.3 shows the one hand straight Intarsia knitting machines which interlaceme-
ints the front needle bed only Rib interlacement, and the rear bearing in laid interlaceme-
ent in five different colors. The machine is made in fineness:
2 1/ 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10, and 12.
The company Euro Well (Shanghai) Knitting Machine Co., Ltd. first
nation to invent a machine (figure 30.4,a) for knitting yarn with 90 needles for adding
machines,which helped create the perfect image effects with specific ways of articulating
yarn. Computer-controlled design make operation and maintenance of machines very ea
sily. Unlike other machines, this machine knitting sweaters with no obvious major nodes.


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Among other things we can say:
1. The very unique and patent design on yarn feeders, of more than 90 yarn feeders;
2. The unique way of yarn twist, creates the perfect cloth cover effect;
3. The computerized pattern design, entire microcomputer control, simple operation, and
easy maintenance;
4. Chinese touch screen operation, easy start;
5. Increasing the amount of needles automatically, while to decrease the amount of
needles with manual aid; there is Chinese indication on the screen so it is no need to
remember procedure;
6. Density is adjusted by cam which with the dial indication that facilitates adjustment
accurately;
7. Band tension arm made of stainless steel is enduring and beautiful;
8. Multi-gauges can be interchangeable. It is easily to be interchanged into the
corresponding gauge model after changing the yarn feeders and needle panel;
9. The perfect cloth cover, different color yarn joint smooth as a picture, without any tuck
stitch.
Product Specification/Models
1. Volume: 1900mm (length)*1400mm (width)*1900mm (height).
2. Weight: 300KG.
3. Gauge: 5,6,7,9,12,14.
4. Electronic power: 220v 50/60Hz.
5. Pattern input: U disk input.
6. Knitting width: adjust according to cloth piece.
7. Knitting speed: depends on the yarn strength.
8. Stop motion: needle brake, knot, program error.
9. Density adjustment: manual cam adjustment, nail indication.
10. Needle bed length: 40.
11. Color yarn change: 1-90.

Application
produce the sweaters

The second new upgrading figure 30.4,b edition machine has a higher pattern design
speed, no need more calculation by manpower. Enter the pattern into the computer, it
will calculate the feeder quickly, then to place it accord to the color of the feeders.
Besides, we have entered the function of push needles; it can according to the custom's
need that to decrease the amount of needles by computer. And the effect of the sweater
knitted by our machine is the same with the hand driven flat knitting machine.
The only thing need man to do is to push the needles to the top, and it will be knitted
down in the end, achieving the ideal effect.
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Figure 30.3. Intarsia knitting machines
Besides the second new upgrading edition machines, figure 30.5, functions, the third
new edition machine also have the function of cover underside, it can cover the colors of
the underside, you can not see the yarn and colors on the back. This machine can also
knit different colors on each side, achieving another ideal knitted effect. Make it be more
competitive in the market.
Electronic Jacquard Intarsia knitting machines, figure 30.6, fully fashion EW-40
(PATENTED ) 32 or 40 special yarn carriers with automatic drive to achieve clean intarsia
binding, with independent positioning from the carriage stroke. This kind of Intarsia
knitting machine is the best in the worldwide, and it break the general Intarsia knitting
machines limitations. No matter how complicated the pattern is, EW-40 will surely help
you to solve it.


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a) b)
Figure 30.4. Computer single-Bed Intarsia (a) flat knitting machine: EW-009A, Computer
single-Bed Intarsia (b) flat knitting machine: EW-009B


Figure 30.5. Computer single-Bed Intarsia flat knitting machine: EW-009B
In figure 30.6. is given EW-40 computerized intarsia m/c with 40 colors (no tuck).


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Figure 30.6, EW-40 computerized intarsia m/c with 40 colors (no tuck)

30.2.1. Technical characteristics

Structur: Stand-alone welded sheet metal.
Needle bed: Available needle bed 1050 mm or 1270 mm.
Gauges: Available in gauges 5,7,8,10 and 12.
Needle: Normal needle than with our new selection system work as drown needle
.Complete interchangeable needles in gauge 5,7 and 8 and in gauges 10 and 12.
Carriage: 1 Carriage with transfer and needle by needle selection. Patented system for
drowned needle. Third technic way. Variable stitch density controllable in all needle bed
lenght. transfer system into vertical needle bed.
Variable stroke: Controlled row per row.
Transfer: This is a device which is used to make the machine knits in intarsia with
absolute mathematical precision.
Division change: Unlimited adjustment thanks to course-by-course control.
Racking: Selective. About 1 inch left and right with correction in all position and extra-
course.
Yarn carrier: 32 or 40 special yarn carriers with automatic drive to achieve clean intarsia
binding, with independent positioning from the carriage stroke.
Take-down: High take-Down far 30 mm from the needle bed.
Hitch: The hitch uses a brushless motor with adjustable speed from zero to 30
stroke/min. Carriage control system with machine stop for overload or shock.
Safety device: Equipped with safety devices in compliance with EC standards. All safety
devices needed to stop the machine in case of yarn breakage, spool end, impact, needle
savers, lamp status, actuator board control, input/output board control, and all controls
necessary to carry out the knitting program.
Production: Max speed about 30 stroke/min.
Optional: Low take down.
Machine software: Easy and completely into machine. Free for installation in any others
normal PC.
Table software: Available table programming, 100 % compatible with Windows OS.
Easy and versatility.
Control system: PC with Keyboard, LCD Color Display and Floppy 3,5"
Dimensions: 285x125x170 cm.

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Figure 30.5. EW-16I computerized intarsia m/c with 16 colors


TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS: NEEDLE BED: Available lenght 1050 mm or 1270
mm with drown needle.
GAUGES: Available in gauges 5, 7, 8, 10, 12 NEEDLE: Normal needle than with our
new selection system work as drown needle .Complete interchangeable needles in
gauge 5,7 and 8 and in gauges 10 and 12.

CARRIAGE: 1 Carriage in 2 systems with integrated transfer and needle by needle
selection. Patented system for drowned needle. Third technic way and stopgap.
Variable stitch density controllable in all needle bed lenght.
AUTOMATIC KNIT YARN: Mechanical system to put in and out yarn carrier and knit
yarn in one single needle.
DIVISION CHANGE: Unlimited adjustment thanks to course-by-course control
RACKING: Selective. About 1 inch left and right with correction in all position and extra-
course.
YARN CARRIER: 16 intarsia independent yarn carrier with 32 motorized stop ( step by
step motors ).
TAKE-DOWN: High take-Down far 30 mm from the needle bed.
HITCH: The hitch uses a brushless motor with adjustable speed from zero to 1,20
mt/sec. Carriage control system with machine stop for overload or shock.
SAFETY DEVICE: Equipped with safety devices in compliance with EC standards. All
safety devices needed to stop the machine in case of yarn breakage, spool end, impact,
needle savers, lamp status, actuator board control, input/output board control, and all
controls necessary to carry out the knitting program.
OPTIONAL: Yarn power device, Low take down, Constant Tension Feeder : BTSR (
www.btsr.com ).
MACHINE SOFTWARE: Easy and completly into machine. Free for installation in any
others normal PC.
TABLE SOFTWARE: Available table programming, 100 % compatible with Windows
OS. Easy and versatility.
CONTROL SYSTEM: Computer PC with Keyboard, Color Display LCD and Floppy 3,5"

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30.3. Modern circular knitting machines
In figure 30.7 shows a scheme of modern circular knitting machine, model 13 GG, with
technical data and sampling capabilities. Figure 30.8 shows samples of this machinecan
interlacement.



Figure 30.7.Circular knitting machine model 13GG

Features
13GG Model : 12-14 gauge effect adjustable.
Innovatively increased number of color Yarn feeder(42 Feeders).
Functional separation of yarn cutter and gripper.
Rib structure adjustable by cam motion.
Control system : LCD display and us b port.
Dimension

Specification
Model MBI-S1342
Feature Rotates needle cylinder reciprocally back & forth
Diameter 25.1 inch (638mm)
Gauge 13 gauge
Stitch cam
adjustment
Stitch cam adjustable from 12 up to 14 gauge effect by stepping motor
Knitting speed
Max. 20 courses per minute over 42 color changes
Max. 40 courses per minute under 21 color changes
Feeder(Tarn
control box)
Intarsia : 42 feeders / RIB : 2 feeder
Selector
WAC actuators / 44 sets for Intarsia / 2 sets for rib knitting / 3 Sets for
Stitch
Color change 42 color yarn change
Maximum Cylinder bed : 680 needles
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number of
needles
Dial bed(Transfer needles)
1 :1 rib 339 needles
2 :1 rib 226 needles
tube rib 678 needles
Fabric take
down
Torque motor controlled
Power 3 Phase, 220v, 50/60Hz, 1.1Kw(1.5HP)
Driving System AC servo motor, Speed controlled, Servo reducer
Stop Motion
Yarn break, Piece count, Emergency, Oil Knitwear drop, Safety fence,
Air closed, Over current, Over voltage, Under voltage, Over load,
Power fail, over heat, Over speed
Compressed Air 5.1~6.1Bar, 5~6 kgf/cm2
Dimension
2900 x 2900 x 2675mm(W x L x H)



Figure 30.8. Samples of knitwear

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Figure 30.9. Computerized jacquard machines YITAI

Figure 30.10. Samples produced on jacquard machine YITAI
1. Name of the machine: Computerized Double Jacquard Knitting Machine/Jacquard
Circular Knitting Machine.

2. Brand: YITAI, has been found on 1990.

3. Usage: Be applicable to produce a wide range of jacquard knitwear.
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4. Feature of the machine:
1). The universal drawing software available in the market is acceptable to this machine.
Any pattern can be scanned into or directly designed in the computer, and then be
converted into needle selection program by WAC DESIGNER software EXPENSION
after color correction and drawing modification. The program is thus saved in the disk
and transfer to machine for running. The patterns can be changed quickly within several
minutes. The data of the pattern can be save in the hard disk of computer or floppy disk.

2). The control system adopts advanced micro-processing technique. Touch-screen LCD
facilitate easy operation and save up space.

3). 3-ways computerized needle selection (Knit, tuck, float) overcomes the
disadvantages of ordinary mechanistic jacquard in limited knitting range. Saving the time
for changing patterns.

6). The design of lubrication system is advanced and unique

7) We adopt the automatic processing machines and tools and execute the strict
standardized production procedure. The roundness of this machine is controlled
averagely below 0.02mm to make the machine run more smoothly with low noise and
shock, stable texture and flat cloth surface to supply the strongest quality guarantee for
you.

8).Cam block with high precision: It adopts special alloy steel. The cam block has high
rigidity and abrasion resistance after being treated with 3-channel polishing treatment of
full-automatic CNC milling machines.

9). The heart of the machine is manufactured in special materials. And developed by
high precision standard and completely new originality design. It is more
stable,credibility, high efficiency and durable.

10). YITAI design system is easy to operate and highly efficiency.It is also comparable
with other pattern programs in the world.

4. Technical data:
Name of the machine Diameter Gauge Feeders H.P
Double Jacquard
knitting machine
30-38 18G-28G 54F-72F 5.5
Single Jacquard knitting
machine
30-38 16G~24G 72F~84F 5.5


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Figure 30.11. Double Jersey Circular Knitting Machine YTW-C


Figure 30.12. View of the cylinder and plate bearing needle with samples
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Figure 30.13. Double knitting machines with a view of the cylinder and
plate holder with needles samples




Figure 30.14. Terry circular knitting machines YTW-ST
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Figure 30.15. High speed circular knitting machines single 3

1. Name of the machine: High Speed Double Circular Knitting Machine/Double-Knitting
Circular Knitting Machine

2. Brand: YITAI, has been found on 1990.

3.Usage:
Be applicable to produce various kinds of superior quality rib knitwear, interlock, twill, air
layer, interlayer, padded bubble, stair cloth, double PK cloth, rib mini jacquard, cardigan,
Milano rib, silk quilt, etc. If Lycra devices are installed in the machine, it can make stretch
knitwear. All kinds of twists made by the machine are widely used in making underwear,
coat twists, varied sportswear and fashion twists.

4. Feature of the machine:
1). The High-Speed Double Rib Knitting Machine is a weft knitting machine. It
contributes excellent functions and wins a good reputation from customers and experts
in the industry.
2). The design of closed orbit for upper and lower cams allows to knitting 1+1 and 2+2
drop needle rib, and the equipment of cams like looping, tucking, flat knitting and so on
simplifies the machines mobility.
3) The production line can also be equipped with lycra attachment which can be used to
produce elastic rib twists to meet the demands of various senior knitwear market.
4) This machine has high precision and convenient operation. Our R&R team applies the
most advanced 3D three-dimensional design software to strengthen the stability
coefficient of main structure by precise design and make the machine run absolutely
stably even at a high speed.
5). Advanced drive system: The machine adopts the drive gear lubricating design, which
ensures that the wear and tear can be minimized when the machine runs at a high
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speed, thus to extend the lifetime and reduce the noise. the drive axle adopts special
steel products with thermal refining, which has strong tenacity, average stress point and
strong rigidity and etc. the design of lubrication system is advanced and unique.
6). The design of lubrication system is advanced and unique
7) we adopt the automatic processing machines and tools and execute the strict
standardized production procedure. The roundness of this machine is controlled
averagely below 0.02mm to make the machine run more smoothly with low noise and
shock, stable texture and flat cloth surface to supply the strongest quality guarantee for
you.
8).Cam block with high precision: It adopts special alloy steel. The cam block has high
rigidity and abrasion resistance after being treated with 3-channel polishing treatment of
full-automatic CNC milling machines.
9). The heart of the machine is manufactured in special materials. And developed by
high precision standard and completely new originality design. It is more
stable,credibility, high efficiency and durable.
10). YITAI design system is easy to operate and highly efficiency.It is also comparable
with other pattern programs in the world.

5. Technical data:
Name of the
machine
Diameter Gauge Feeders H.P

Double knitting
machine
30-38
18G-
36G
72F-
96F
5.5HP



30.3.1. Terry Circular knitting machines YTW-ST

Terry Circular knitting machines (Figure 30.16) is designed to produce various kinds of
terry cloth, such as velours, fleece on one side, two electron plush, thick plush, diamond
plush, terry fleece, polar fleece, Velour steamed, etc.. which are widely used in making
clothes for babies, children's clothing, clothing for aduist, skirts, sportsclothes,business
suits and other industrial products. The machine also can produce elastic knitting with
the addition of Lycra device.

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Figure 30.16. Terry circular knitting machines YTW-ST

Circular knitting high-speed single machine 3 (Figure 30.14) is designed for producing
various kinds of plush knitwear (trimmed plush-cut), French terry knitwear, 3-1, 3-2 twill,
knitwear, busirana, striped knitwear, which can be widely used for the production of
sports garments, sweaters, pajamas, children's clothes and warm knitwear (cloth).
1. Name of the machine: High Speed Single Terry Knitting Machine (fig. 30.16,Terry
Fabric Knitting Machine, Terry Circular Knitting Machine.
2. Brand: YITAI, has been found on 1990.
3.Usage: Be applicable to produce various kinds of terry fabric, such as velour, fleece in
one side, twining electron plush, thick plush, diamond plush, terry fleece, polar fleece,
steam velour, etc. which are widely used in making infant wear, children's wear, adult's
wear, sportswear, skirt, business suit and others industrial cloth. the machine can also
produce elastic stretch knitwear by adding the Lycra device.

This machine is interchangeable with Single Circular Knitting Machine by changing the
cams and some accessories to produce jersey or stitch-varied cloth.

4. Feature of the machine:
1). This machine has high precision and convenient operation. Our R&R team applies
the most advanced 3D three-dimensional design software to strengthen the stability
coefficient of main structure by precise design and make the machine run absolutely
stably even at a high speed.

2). With the perfect and precise design of cam, equipped different standards of sinker,
this model can produce terry fabric in different length of loop. It is according to clients
need to change the equipment.

3). For this sort of machine, you simply can change its cylinder and cams into single
knitting machine to produce jersey or stitch-varied cloth. Adding Lycra attachment, you
can knit elastic cloth which is suitable for seasonal variation and raise the extra value of
the machine.
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4) Advanced drive system: The machine adopts the drive gear lubricating design, which
ensures that the wear and tear can be minimized when the machine runs at a high
speed, thus to extend the lifetime and reduce the noise. the drive axle adopts special
steel products with thermal refining, which has strong tenacity, average stress point and
strong rigidity and etc. the design of lubrication system is advanced and unique.

5). The design of lubrication system is advanced and unique

6) we adopt the automatic processing machines and tools and execute the strict
standardized production procedure. The roundness of this machine is controlled
averagely below 0.02mm to make the machine run more smoothly with low noise and
shock, stable texture and flat cloth surface to supply the strongest quality guarantee for
you.

7).Cam block with high precision: It adopts special alloy steel. The cam block has high
rigidity and abrasion resistance after being treated with 3-channel polishing treatment of
full-automatic CNC milling machines.

8). The heart of the machine is manufactured in special materials. And developed by
high precision standard and completely new originality design. It is more stable,
credibility, high efficiency and durable.

9). YITAI design system is easy to operate and highly efficiency. It is also comparable
with other pattern programs in the world.

5. Technical data:
Name of the machine Diameter Gauge Feeders H.P
Single PK Terry
Knitting machine
26-34
14G-
24G
52F-
68F
3.7HP-
5.5HP

1. Name of the machine: High Speed Double Circular Knitting Machine/Double-Knitting
Circular Knitting Machine.

2. Brand: YITAI, has been found on 1990.

3.Usage:
Be applicable to produce various kinds of superior quality rib knitwear, interlock, twill, air
layer, interlayer, padded bubble, stair cloth, double PK cloth, rib mini jacquard, cardigan,
Milano rib, silk quilt, etc. If Lycra devices are installed in the machine, it can make stretch
fabric. All kinds of twiats made by the machine are widely used in making underwear,
coat twists, varied sportswear and fashion fabrics.

4. Feature of the machine:
1). The High-Speed Double Rib Knitting Machine is a weft knitting machine. It
contributes excellent functions and wins a good reputation from customers and experts
in the industry.
2). The design of closed orbit for upper and lower cams allows to knitting 1+1 and 2+2
drop needle rib, and the equipment of cams like looping, tucking, flat knitting and so on
simplifies the machines mobility.
3) The production line can also be equipped with Lycra attachment which can be used to
produce elastic rib twists to meet the demands of various senior twists market.
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4) This machine has high precision and convenient operation. Our R&R team applies the
most advanced 3D three-dimensional design software to strengthen the stability
coefficient of main structure by precise design and make the machine run absolutely
stably even at a high speed.
5). Advanced drive system: The machine adopts the drive gear lubricating design, which
ensures that the wear and tear can be minimized when the machine runs at a high
speed, thus to extend the lifetime and reduce the noise. the drive axle adopts special
steel products with thermal refining, which has strong tenacity, average stress point and
strong rigidity and etc. the design of lubrication system is advanced and unique.
6). The design of lubrication system is advanced and unique
7) we adopt the automatic processing machines and tools and execute the strict
standardized production procedure. The roundness of this machine is controlled
averagely below 0.02mm to make the machine run more smoothly with low noise and
shock, stable texture and flat cloth surface to supply the strongest quality guarantee for
you.
8).Cam block with high precision: It adopts special alloy steel. The cam block has high
rigidity and abrasion resistance after being treated with 3-channel polishing treatment of
full-automatic CNC milling machines.
9). The heart of the machine is manufactured in special materials. And developed by
high precision standard and completely new originality design. It is more stable,
credibility, high efficiency and durable.
10). YITAI design system is easy to operate and highly efficiency. It is also comparable
with other pattern programs in the world.

5. Technical data:
Name of the
machine
Diameter Gauge Feeders H.P
Double knitting
machine
30-38
18G-
36G
72F-
96F
5.5HP

1. Name of the machine: High Speed Single Circular Knitting Machine, Single Jersey
Knitting Machine,.

2. Brand: YITAI, has been found on 1990.
3.Usage: Used for knitting various kinds of senior single twists. The machine can be
used to produced clothes with various code weights, such as cotton cloth blended cloth,
artificial silk/linen knitwear, TTC double layer knitwear etc, which are mainly used as the
materials for men and women underwear, TShirt, sports suits,decoration clothes and etc.

4. Feature of the machine:
1) This machine has high precision and convenient operation. Our R&R team applies the
most advanced 3D three-dimensional design software to strengthen the stability
coefficient of main structure by precise design and make the machine run absolutely
stably even at a high speed.

2). Advanced drive system: The machine adopts the drive gear lubricating design, which
ensures that the wear and tear can be minimized when the machine runs at a high
speed, thus to extend the lifetime and reduce the noise. the drive axle adopts special
steel products with thermal refining, which has strong tenacity, average stress point and
strong rigidity and etc. the design of lubrication system is advanced and unique.

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3). The design of lubrication system is advanced and unique.

4) we adopt the automatic processing machines and tools and execute the strict
standardized production procedure. The roundness of this machine is controlled
averagely below 0.02mm to make the machine run more smoothly with low noise and
shock, stable texture and flat cloth surface to supply the strongest quality guarantee for
you.

5).Cam block with high precision: It adopts special alloy steel. The cam block has high
rigidity and abrasion resistance after being treated with 3 channel polishing treatment of
full-automatic CNC milling machines.

6). The heart of the machine is manufactured in special materials. And developed by
high precision standard and completely new originality design. It is more stable,
credibility, high efficiency and durable.

5. Technical data:
Name of the
machine
Diameter Gauge Feeders H.P
Single knitting
machine
13~68 12G~36G 30F~408F 2.2HP~5.5HP

1. Name of the machine: High Speed Single 3-Thread Fleece Knitting Machine, Circular
knitting machine, Fleece fabric Knitting Machine.

2. Brand: YITAI, has been found on 1990.

3. Usage: Be applicable to produce various kinds of fleece, French terry, 3:1,3:2 twill
knitwear, drill, tabby knitwear, which can be widely used to produce series of sportswear,
sweart shirt, sleepwear, infant wear and thermal cloth.

The length of the villus can be adjusted by the special-made sinker and cams. This
machine is interchangeable with Single Circular Knitting Machine by changing the cams
and some accessories.

4. Feature of the machine:
1). The special-made sinker cam is used for adjusting length of fuzzy piles. This dual-
purpose model also can be equipped with many types of cams and other component
assemeblies. Then it will be changed into four-tracks single knitting machine.

2). It equipped with 136-sec gear drive cloth winder. By the gear box in center, there is
no variation in the center of gravity and the performance is simply easy and smooth.

3). The main shaft adopts a set of tension cloth. When the tension is too strong, it will
slide automatically, therefore, float thread and needle damage will not occur. That is a
perfect matching for frictional resistance, sound insulation and easily operate.

4) This machine has high precision and convenient operation. Our R&R team applies the
most advanced 3D three-dimensional design software to strengthen the stability
coefficient of main structure by precise design and make the machine run absolutely
stably even at a high speed.
Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // vojatriks@yahoo.com 399
5). Advanced drive system: The machine adopts the drive gear lubricating design, which
ensures that the wear and tear can be minimized when the machine runs at a high
speed, thus to extend the lifetime and reduce the noise. the drive axle adopts special
steel products with thermal refining, which has strong tenacity, average stress point and
strong rigidity and etc. the design of lubrication system is advanced and unique.

6). The design of lubrication system is advanced and unique.

7) we adopt the automatic processing machines and tools and execute the strict
standardized production procedure. The roundness of this machine is controlled
averagely below 0.02mm to make the machine run more smoothly with low noise and
shock, stable texture and flat cloth surface to supply the strongest quality guarantee for
you.

8).Cam block with high precision: It adopts special alloy steel. The cam block has high
rigidity and abrasion resistance after being treated with 3-channel polishing treatment of
full-automatic CNC milling machines.

9). The heart of the machine is manufactured in special materials. And developed by
high precision standard and completely new originality design. It is more
stable,credibility, high efficiency and durable.

10). YITAI design system is easy to operate and highly efficiency.It is also comparable
with other pattern programs in the world.

5. Technical data:
Name of the
machine
Diameter Gauge Feeders H.P
Single knitting
machine
30~34 14G~24G 90F~102F 3.7HP~5.5HP

30.4.Elementary Knitting bio
medical research project
on AIDS, diabetes
15 November 2010, Milan Narrow knit
wears machinery manufacturer
developed an innovative electronic
double needle bar warp knitting machine
Comez has (Figure 30.17) for use in an
Italian regional government funded
biomedical textiles project. The
Panagenesi project aims to help cure
diabetes by optimizing the implanting of
human pancreatic islands through the
use of fibrin scaffold to aid in the
success of pancreatic transplants
Figure 30.17. Electronic double bar warp knitting machine
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30.4.1. Project partners
Panagenesi is financed by the Region of Lombardy and is being developed by five
organisations which bring together their respective know-how and multi-sector expertise.
Among the research partners are three Italian manufacturers operating in the textile
sector: Torcitura di Menaggio, a silk yarn twisting company; Gaetano Rossini Holding,
which specializes in the production of 3D twists; and Comez, based in Cilavegna (PV), a
global leader in the manufacture of narrow fabric technology machinery.
The manufacturers are pooling their efforts with Stazione Sperimentale per La Seta
[Experimental Silk Centre], one of Italys renowned research centres specializing in the
textile sector, and Milans Niguarda Ca Granda hospital, which is said to be Italys most
important medical research centre in the field of histotherapy, focusing on in-vitro
regeneration of human tissue.
Also involved in the project is the Diabetes Research Center at the University of Miami in
Florida, a world renowned centre researching and experimenting with treatments for
diabetes patients, headed by an Italian researcher, Dr. Camillo Ricordi.
30.4.2. Transplant of pancreatic stem cells

Figure 30.18. Transplant of pancreatic stem cells
According to Panagenesi, the first successful transplant of pancreatic (Figure 30.18)
stem cells occurred in September 2005, from the bone marrow of a deceased donor to a
woman with diabetes. The procedure was performed in Florida by Camillo Ricordi, head
of the cell transplant division at the University of Miami. The transplanting of pancreatic
islands is said to represent one of the possible treatments for curing a specific type of
diabetes, and is generating interest in the scientific community for the clinical successes
obtained thus far and concrete prospects for future improvements.
There are said to be numerous advantages associated with the transplanting of islands
with respect to that of the pancreas altogether, however a variety of issues must still be
resolved, one of which is related to the difficulty of transplanted islands in taking root.
Improving the process through which islands take root today is said to represent an
important research sector, and the strategies being proposed include the use of
molecules which reduce inflammation in the implant area.
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Panagenesi says that fibrin, a protein extracted from silk, has been studied extensively
by tissular engineering for biomedical applications due to its biocompatibility, slow
degradability and considerable mechanical properties.
Today, fibrin can be odeled into a variety of forms (film, fiber, netting, interlacements,
membranes, yarns and sponges), and has demonstrated significant support and
adhesion capacities for various types of cells, promoting the repairing of live tissue.
Furthermore, its molecular and surface characteristics make it highly biocompatible, and
its implanting causes a reduced incidence of inflammation, a spokesperson for the
project said.
30.4.3. Project aims
The aim of the Panagenesi project is to optimize the rooting of islands in the transplant
site through the use of fibrin variable circular section scaffolds, consequently reducing
the number of pancreatic islands necessary for the transplants full success and
prolongation of their function over time.
The scaffold is essentially a tubular textile article with a small diameter, comprising a
sequence of lobed structures (narrowed sections alternating with broader sections), with
a variable cross-section and three-dimensional type internal structure (internal
crisscrossing), produced using fibrin yarns (Figure 30.19).
For the manufacture of the tubular textile, Comez has designed an innovative electronic
double needle bar warp knitting machine, with a working width of 800mm, in gauge 20
(needles per inch), with 8 knitting bars for independently controlled pattern making. The
knitting bars, finished product take-down and yarn feeders, are all controlled by versatile
electronic actuators which are said to provide excellent dynamic performance and
positioning accuracy.

Figure 30.19. 3D warp knitted knitwear


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30.4.4. New fields of application for warp knitting
According to machine builder Comez, the machine opens up new fields of application for
warp knitting technology by applying the most advanced mechanical and electronic
technologies, being capable of operating at a very high accuracy rate, by processing
yarns of various types, structure and composition and by having a sophisticated
construction design, whilst being flexible in its operation and versatile in the multiple
textile structures it can create.
The machine is said to be especially suited for the production of complex articles that
can find applications in a variety of medical/hospital fields and in technical and industrial
sectors in general.
The double needle bar machine can create spacer (3D) twists comprising two external
fabrics forming the two faces of the fabric itself, bound by an internal structure. The
possibility of distancing the two needle bars allows for the gap between the two external
fabrics to be increased or decreased.

The variability of the circular section 3D tubular article for the Panagenesi project is
obtained by modifying the interlacing movement which constitutes the knitwears
structure and by varying the feeding of the yarns and number of stitches per centimeter.
The positive feeding of the yarns allows for the processing of very fine yarns such as
those made from fibrin where very little resistance to mechanical action is encountered.

30.5. Movement of platinum (sinker)


Figure 30.19. Platinum (sinker) movement


30.5.1. Relative movement
This technique causes the sinker to move up when the needle is moving down and to
move down when the needle moves up (Figure 30.19). In this way the total vertical
needle movement can be cut by approximately half and the cycle time reduced by half
also.
The illustration (Figure 30.20) shows an alternative way of generating relative
displacement on a sinker machine.

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Figure 30.20. Sinker and needle cams


30.6. Warp knitting machine architecture / construction
Warp knitting machines produce the widest range of knitwear types and qualities of any
knitwear forming technology (Figure 30.19). There is a vast range of machine sizes,
types and configurations, ranging from 10cm-wide crochet machine to a five meter-wide
geo textiles machine. Consequently it is difficult to encapsulate such a range within a
simple description. The figure and summary show a typical knitting machine producing
knitwear for apparel.



Figure 30.19. Warp knitting machine architecture

30.6.1 Basic structure of a single bar knitting machine
The main machine frame is constructed from sturdy cast steel or welded vertical side
frames held together and stabilized by a large welded steel box section transverse
girder. The needle bar and the yarn guides are mounted transversely above the box
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section girder in the middle of the machine and run virtually the full width of the machine.
Machine widths range from 1 meter to 5 or 6 meters depending on the type and end use
of the fabric.
The yarn supply may be carried on warp beams situated above the knitting elements
on beam control systems mounted on the side frames. Alternatively the beams may be
mounted on A-frames behind the machine to permit greater beam capacities, or the
machine may be supplied from individual yarn packages mounted in creels behind the
machine.
The knitwear is taken away downwards and to the front of the machine to a take-up
roller, or it may travel under a walkway for the operator, to be taken-up on a bulk
knitwear roller that is remote from the machine.
Warp knitting machines are divided into two classifications: tricot and Raschel, each of
which uses a different configuration of knitting elements and is suitable for producing
different types of fabric structure.
Modern warp knitting machines are engineered to operate at high knitting speeds (up to
3,000 cycles/minute) and these machines may produce in excess of 5 square
meters/minute.

30.7. Needle technology
Until relatively recently warp knitting machines used four types of needle:
The bearded needle
The latch needle
The compound needle
The carbine needle
Bearded and compound needles were used on tricot machines, the latch needle on
Rachel and crochet machines and the carbine needle on crochet machines.
Recently the bearded needle has been dropped and development has focused on the
compound needle due to its greater rigidity and ability to withstand higher yarn lapping
forces (see Loop formation) than the bearded or latch needle.
Furthermore at the highest speeds (above 2,500 cycles/minute) the issue of latch impact
on the hook starts to become a problem with latch needles. In contrast the compound
needle can be closed gently in a controlled manner even at the highest knitting speeds.
On warp knitting machines the needles are mounted collectively and rigidly in a
horizontal metal bar (the needle bar that runs the full knitting width of the machine).
Equally the yarn guides are also set rigidly into a horizontal metal bar (the guide bar that
runs the full width of the machine).
Subsequent diagrams (Figure 30.21) show a bearded needle knitting on a tricot
machine.

30.7.1. Knitting element displacements
The figure summarizes the somewhat confusing displacements made by the guide bar
(Figure 30.20). The front of the machine lies to the right of the figure.
The figure shows the individual yarn guides set in a solid bar. The front-to-back
movements are called swings. The first swing from front to back is followed by a lateral
shog: the overlap, which wraps the yarn in the needle hook.
The next movement is a swing from back to front followed by the under lap that may be
from 0 to 8 needle spaces depending on the knitwear structure being knitted.
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Figure 30.20. Guide bar movement

30.7.2. Tricot knitting
In figure 30.21 a & b the guide bar swings from the front of the machine (on the right
hand side of the figure) to the back of the machine taking the yarn through the gap
between two adjacent needles.


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Figure 30.21. The process of creating loops

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30.7.3. Bearded needle knitting
Figure 30.21,c shows the guide bar moving laterally towards the observer. This is known
as a shog movement, specifically the overlap that wraps the yarn around the beard of
the needle.
Figure 30.21,d shows the second swing in the cycle taking the yarn between adjacent
needles back to the front of the machine. At this time the needle bar moves upwards to
place the overlap below the open beard on the shank of the needle.

30.7.4. Bearded needle knitting
Figure 30.21,e shows the presser bar moving forward to close all the needles and in
(Figure 30.21,f) the closed needle passes down through the old loop and the sinkers
move backwards to release the old loops so that knock-over can take place.
30.7.5. Bearded needle knitting
In figure (30.21. g) the sinker bar moves forward to secure the knitwear prior to the
needle rising in the next cycle and at this stage the guide bar makes a second shog, this
time an overlap which may be of 0 to 8 needle spaces depending on the structure being
knitted (see the module Warp knit knitwear structures).

30.8. Bearded needle knitting
The machine type in this series of diagrams is a tricot machine and on this type of
machine there is no continuous knock-over surface. The belly' of the sinker provides
support to the knitwear by preventing the under laps from moving downwards. For this
reason it is not a good idea to knit twists with few under laps such as net or lace on a
tricot machine. They are much better knitted on a Raschel machine with a continuous
knock-over trick plate.
30.8.1. Tricot knitting machine
The diagrams ( Figures 30.22,a to c ) illustrate a tricot machine with compound needles.
The sequence of events is almost exactly the same as for the bearded needle with the
exception that the overlap lays the yarn into the open hook and not onto the beard, and
the compound needle is closed by relative displacement between the needle and the
closing element.


a) b)
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c)
Figure 30.22. Process of creating a loop at the compound needle

30.9. Raschel knitting
Again the basic sequence of events is the same with diagram (Figure 30.23, a) showing
the needle bar starting to move upwards from knock-over and the holding down sinkers
moving forward over the knitwear to prevent it rising with the needles. At the same time
the under lap is taking place.
In (Figure 30.23, b) the needle moves upward through clearing and the latch wire
prevents the latch from flicking closed as the old loop drops off.
In (Figure 30.23, c) the front to back swing of the guide bar is followed by the overlap
that wraps the yarn into the open hook of the needle.


Figure 30.23. Process of creating a loop at the Raschel machine

30.9.1. Yarn feeding
Yarn is fed to the needle typically from a warp beam that will contain yarns spaced at the
same pitch as the machine gauge. Modern warp beams may contain 30,000 to 50,000
meters of warp.
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On earlier Raschel machines and even today on Raschel machines with more than six
guide bars and warp systems, the yarn tension developed in the warp by the pull of the
needles was used to turn the warps against a warp tension controlled warp brake system
or let-off.
The diagram (Figure 30.24) illustrates such a let-off system. The warp sheet (shown in
grey) pushes on the rocking bar and as the tension builds the brake is released to feed
the warp towards the needles. This type of let-off is relatively cheap and is the only
option when the machine has a large number of guide bars.
The problem is that as the warp is used up and the warp diameter reduces the same
warp tension exerts a lower torque on the warp beam and the amount fed forward tends
to reduce. This changes the quality of the knitwear unless adjustments are made
periodically to the brake band.



Figure 30.24.
Warp shaft with clamping mechanism

30.9.2. Warp let off system
The solution to this problem is to replace
the brake release with a DC or servo
motor drive that will rotate the warp
beams to release a precise length of
yarn to each cycle of the knitting
elements. This is positive feeding and it
produces a consistent loop length in the
knitwear from the beginning to the end
of the warp. It is the only system suitable
for high speed, high production modern
machines.
30.9.3. Knitting element displacement technology
The diagram is a displacement/time diagram showing the displacements against
degrees of rotation of the main shaft of the machine for each of the knitting elements of a
modern high speed compound needle tricot machine.
On earlier warp knitting machines the displacements were derived from cylindrical cams
but they become noisy and unreliable at speed in excess of 400 revolutions/minute.
Modern machines are driven by displacements derived from crankshafts. These
eccentric drives generate simple harmonic motion (SHM) displacements similar to the
blue displacement shown for the guide bar swing.
In order to generate the modified SHM necessary for the other elements the SHM
displacement is linked to a multi-bar chain that alters the movement, producing the
necessary dwells, for example in the sliding latch, shown by the purple trace, when it
lags behind the upward movement of the needle hook, thus causing the needle to open.
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Figure 30.25. Diagram of the temporary movement of warp machine

30.9.4. Time displacement diagrams
Crankshaft drives are robust and are capable of speeds in excess of 3,000
revolutions/minute and have a long working life at those speeds.
30.9.4.1. bar shog, overlap and under lap
The displacements shown (Figure 30.25) for the needle, sliding latch, guide bar swing
and sinker bar are the same irrespective of the type of knitwear being produced by the
machine.
The shog movements determine the type of twists produced and they need to be
changed each time the twists structure is modified. Crucially the shog movements must
place the guides at the centre of the gap between adjacent needles with 100% accuracy
every knitting cycle for the entire lifetime of the machine. If there was a failure in the
shog displacement and the needle bar moved by less than a full needle pitch then in all
likelihood the yarn guides would collide with the needles during the swing movement
causing serious damage to the machine. On earlier machines the shog displacements
were generated by links in a pattern chain.

The diagram shows a chain link pattern mechanism. The chain links pass around the
drum B in the diagram and the cam follower attached to the pivoting segment A runs
along the profile cut in the different size links of the chain.
As a result the up and down movements of the cam follower translate into later
movements of the guide bar in such a way that a chain link size 0 places the right hand
yarn guide before the right hand needle. A chain link size 1 places the same guide in the
first gap. A chain link size 2 places the guide in the second gap and so on.
This method is reliable and safe but it is a slow process to put together long pattern
repeats and the system is noisy and will not run at speeds higher than 600
cycles/minute.
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Figure 30.26. Chain mechanism-command mechanism

30.9.5. Chain link mechanism
Guide bar shog, overlap and under lap
At speeds higher than this there are two alternatives to the chain link system (Figure
30.26). Firstly the displacements can be cut into the diameter of a disk cam, which may
hold 16 cycles of shogs. The second is to use an electrically programmed bank of
eccentric drives to generate the required displacements.

Figure 30.27. Electronic sampling mechanism

The diagram shows the way
in which this system works.
The eccentrics are engaged to
the rotating shafts by
electromagnets (Figure
30.27). When they are
engaged they push a roller
between two sliding segments
of the vertical column thus
creating an upward
displacement. This can be
seen in the diagram where the
topmost eccentric has
engaged and rotated pushing
the small roller between the
two topmost segments
producing a shog of 16 needle positions in this case.

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This array of eccentrics enables any displacement from 1 needle position produced by
the bottom eccentric, through 2,3,4,5,6 and up to 16 and then step by step up to 32.
This allows the patterning to be controlled by electronic means rather than a
cumbersome mechanical system.

30.9.6.Take-down technology
The take-down system on warp knitting machine is relatively simple as compared with
weft knitting machine. The knitwear is drawn down through the nip of a two or three roller
system driven by a gear train or by chains and gears directly from the main shaft of the
machine.
In Figure 30.28 roller 1 is the main driven roller pulling the fabric from the sinker via yarn
tension a1. Roller 2 is a pressure roller pressed against roll 1 by spring 3 to prevent the
fabric slipping. The knitwear passes through the nip between roller 1 and 2. The other
group of three rolls show the knitwear being wound-up on the mesh roller.

Figure 30.28. The system of
withdrawal and winding knitwear.

30.9.7. Machine control
The machine control systems
are relatively simple compared
to a flat weft knitting machine.
They comprise: a motor
controller, which drives the main
motor; typically 2 to 6 DC or
synchronous motor controllers to
control the warp let-off systems;
a microprocessor to control the
electronic shogging system if
fitted and finally, a production
statistics system, which logs and
records t
30.10. Demonstrate the working procedure
of double needle bar Raschel machine
The total number of revolutions and stoppages etc.
To demonstrate the working procedure of double needle bar Raschel machine, a
simplified version of the knitting elements is illustrated in figure 30.29 showing the two
needle bars marked with the letters f (for front) and b (for back),the two guide bars
marked with the number 1 and 2,two trick plates and two sinker bars.
The double needle bar machine is almost symmetrical so that the needle bars can be
identified as a front and back only by the position of the batching device. The definition
of front and back bars as well as the definition of the first and the second guide bars are
made fro the sole purpose of establishing the knitting relationships each of guide bars
and each of the needle bars in the following descriptions.
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Figure 30.29. Demonstrate the working procedure of double
needle bar Raschel machine

The needle bars are independently operated in an up and down movement while the
guide bars are swing alternately among the needles of each bar. The simplified knitting
cycles illustrated in figure 30.30, 1-5 can be describe as follows:

Stage 1- The guide bars are positioned at the back of the machine, above the
back needle bar. The front sinker is placed forward to secure the knitwear while
the front needle bar ascends to clearing position. The guide bar perform the
under-lap shoging movement for the front needle bar and then swing to the hook-
side.


Figure 30.30. Illustration of a simple cycle loop creation


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Stage 2- On the hook side of the front needle bar, the guide bars shog an overlap
according to the pattern mechanism and then swing back. Note that not every
guide bar needs to form an overlap as further explained in the following
paragraphs.
Stage 3- The swing back is completed, the yarns are wrapped within the hooks
so that the front needle bar can start to descend. The front sinker bar retreats
while the back one move forward.
Stage 4- Front needle bar descent, the previously formed loops which rested on
the needle stems close the latches. The front sinker bar continues to retreat, the
back one is now above its needle bar. The guide bars swing for the third time,
this time to the front in order to clear the way above the back needle bar. Under-
lap shoging movement fro the back needle bar can start.
Stage 5- Front needle bar is at knock over position and the needles form new
loops. Back needle bar, now with its knitwear secured by the sinker bar, ascends
to clearing position.

The sequence describe is only one half of the knitting cycle and the movement of the
back needle bar is identical to that of the front. Every knitting cycle of this machine type
incorporates six swinging movements which are produced by the machine camshaft.
Drafting design for a double needle bar uses different procedure from single needle bar
machines. Two rows of dots are necessary to show one knitting cycle of the machine.
The first row always represents the knitting course of the front needle bar while the
second represents the knitting course of the back needle bar.
The up and down movement of the needles as well as the swinging movement of the
guide bars are constantly produced by the driving mechanism.
The different fabric types and effects are produced by the patterning mechanism.

30.10.1. Warp Knitting Atlas construction

The specialty of the atlas constructions is that the laps are continued over two or more
courses in one direction and after a turning course the laps return in opposite direction to
the starting point.

The characteristic of the atlas construction is the inclination of the loop heads which
changes from turning course to turning course. The stripes formed in this way depend in
width on the number of stitches between the turning points and the adjusted number of
courses (cpi).
The Atlas is said to be open if the loops between the turning points are open. In case
of a closed atlas construction, the loops between the turning points are closed.
The turning courses can be open or closed.
The number of courses from turning course to turning course is most important for the
fabric appearance and has to be indicated in the binding description.
The repeat of a 4-row Atlas construction (Figure 30.40) includes 8 courses whereby the
stitches of 4 rows at a time incline alternately to the left and to the right. Half of the
repeat of the Atlas construction is also called the mirror. The open Atlas belongs to the
lightest warp knitted knitwear and is more often worked than the closed Atlas
construction.
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4-row Atlas, closed, turning points open:
repeat in length = 8 courses yarn parts per repeat = 24

Figure 30.40. 4-row atlas indoors laying Figure 30.41. Loop structure -the left side
(background)

4-row Atlas (Figure 30.42), open, turning points closed:
Repeat in length = 8 courses
yarn parts per repeat = 24

Figure 30.42. Atlas in the open laying left and right

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Figure 30.43. 3-row Atlas in laying open
3-row back-lapped Atlas (Figure30.42), closed, turning points closed:
If the lapping of the Atlas is changed to displace during the under lap motion by one
needle gap more, similar to the 2 x 1 stitch, the Atlas is called a back-lapped Atlas
construction.
Owing to the elongated under lap this back-lapped Atlas is about 1/3 heavier than the
normal one.
Repeat in length = 6 courses yarn parts per repeat = 24


Figure 30.44. The appearance of knitwear on the left and right

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Figure 30. 45. The structure and graphical display of the atlas in a closed taffeta laying

3-row back-lapped Atlas, open, tuning points closed:
Repeat in length = 6 courses yarn parts per repeat = 24

Figure 30.46. The appearance of cloth on the left and right sides in the closed laying

30.10.2. Stitch forming process on Tricot Warp Knitting Machine

The compound needles and slides are at their lowest position (knocking-over).
The guide bars are in their foremost position.
The under- lap is to be made .
The sinker bar moves forward into the holding down position. (Picture- 1)
The sinker bar is in the forward holding down position,
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The compound needles start to rise,
the slides are stay in their lowest position.
The guide bars complete their under- lapping. (Picture- 2)


Figure 30.47. The structure and graphical display of the atlas in the open laying taffeta



0- knocking over position 60- holding down 120-swinging through of
guide bars


The compound needles are at their upper position.
The slides rise but do not project out of the needles grooves.
The sinker have held down a knitwear or the loops, the holding down unit is slackened
by the sinker moving backwards into over-lap position. As they pass the compound
needles the guide bars begin their over- lapping shog. (Picture-3).
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185- overlapping of the 240- tuck ing of the 315- closing of the needles
warp yarns warp yarns and casting off



330- beginning of casting off

Figure 30.48. Stitch Forming Process on Tricot Warp Knitting Machine

The guide bars are in the rear position. The overlapping is completed, the holding down
remains slack, and the slides rise in the groove of the needles through the
loops. (Picture-4).

The guide bars swing forwards, the ends are laid into the hooks of the needles as they
moving downwards, the slides still remains in their upper position and thus project from
the needles grooves, at the same time holding down is tightened again by the sinker bar
which begins to move back afterwards.(Picture-5).
The sinker bar has reached the foremost position.

The compound needles and slides descends together and so doing the slides come
out of the grooves and close the hooks of the needles. The loops slip from the shank
onto the slide (casting on).The guide bars swing into their foremost position and start the
under-lapping. (Picture -6).

The compound needles and the slides dip down together into the sinkers.
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The yarns laying into the hooks are passed through the loops being cast off to the form
new loops. The sinker bar starts to move forward. (Picture-7).

30.10.3. Emerging technology warp knitting
Warp knitting is a process in which the yarn is knitted up wards instead of a single
row, following the adjacent columns known as whales.
In warp knitting the total number of individual yarns is
equal to the total stitches in a row. Warp knitting is
done only by a machine, not by hand.
Figure 30.49. Structured open tricot interlacement

Warp knitting comprises many kinds of knitwear, such
as Raschel knits, tricot, and Milanese knits. Tricot is
usually used in lingerie making. Milanese is firmer,
stable, smoother and costly than tricot, so it is utilized
in high-end lingerie. Raschel knits are not so
stretchable and are usually bulky, so they are normally
used in making unlined material like jackets, coats,
dresses and straight skirts.
History of warp knitting
Two names, William Lee and Karl Mayer are considerably related with the
commencement of warp knitting. In 1589 William Lee applied for patent of his first
machine for making knitted articles, in that way he laid the foundations for mechanical
manufacturing and making the technical base to develop warp knitting technology.

In 1947, the insightful entrepreneur and mechanic, Karl Mayer showed off first warp
knitting loom. The FM 48 was compiled two guide bars, and with bearded needles,
attained a speed of 200 rpm. It marked the starting of technical era in pioneering leaps
in the field of warp knitting.
Karl Mayer, in 1953 launched his company's first Raschel loom into the factories.
These warp knitting machines was working with up to four guide bars, used a four-roll
take up system to allow fabric beams alterations without stopping the machine. It had a
pattern-box with pattern discs or chain elements. The technology of these high-
performing warp knitting machines were enhanced from one generation to the other,
considering to improvise the product technology, equipping for added facilities like blind
lap tools for producing knitted plisse, or sinkers with two pieces, and easily movable
sinkers or pattern pressers.

The market witnessed inventions of new machines in the year 1954, the first elastic
Raschel machine and first tulle Raschel knitting machine. In 1955 'Super Grant' series
marked its name on the market. 1956 saw the first warp knitted lace machine, featuring
12 guide bars. First curtain Raschel machine was introduced in 1958 and first carpet
Raschel machine in 1959. The success story continued in 1967 with a launch of the
first fall plate multi bar Raschel machine and jacquard Raschel machine weft insertion,
along with other series. Following gradual developments led more diversity into the
product range of lace Raschel machines. A significant move in this process was the
execution of the jacquard theory in warp knitting.
The lace Raschel machines were working with nearly 57 guide bars by the year
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1981. This series was first ever set with an electronic control system. In the starting of
80s, the sum at or, an electromechanical pattern guide bar control was introduced. The
sum at or included slide elements, featuring defined curves on the end surfaces. Now,
a pattern control computer conquest the work of supervising the pattern guide bars.
For a long period this technology was followed in the Jacquardtronic and 'Textronic'
series of lace Raschel machines, with up to 78 guide-bars. Alike these developments,
enhance also had been witnessed on the ground of automatic warp knitting machines.
30.10.4. Technological Emergence
In 2003, the new generation machines in the warp knitting were displayed at ITMA,
Birmingham. The machines were equipped with individual motors to feed thread,
knitwear take-up and rolling-up, with all easy navigation. All machines had network
systems with latest computers. The computer merges a motion control and a PLC for
machines sequence control.

Figure 30.50. Warp Knitting

Nearly 20 years ago Heraeus first developed and introduced a new production
technique for catalyst gauzes: warp knitting (Figure 30.50). This patented production
technique proved so successful that soon the majority of catalyst gauzes in use
throughout the world are using this technique. The traditional woven catalyst gauzes
have almost entirely been replaced by knitted products.
The choice of the warp knitting technique was made by Heraeus after extensive
comparative testing of several different gauze structures produced with varying
production techniques supported by mathematical modeling and simulation of reaction
processes. The warp knitted gauze proved best due to its outstanding performance
under industrial operation conditions and because of the versatility of the warp knitting
production technique itself.
The Heraeus Catalytic Systems warp knitted catalyst gauzes are uniquely well suited
for catalyst reactions due to their inherent features:

high mechanical strength and form stability
self repairing behave our
low pressure drop
high surface area
low platinum losses
minimal rate of rhodium oxide formation
high conversion rate and selectivity
long operating cycles

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30.11. Platinum (Sinker)

Figure 30.51. Sinker-top machine

a) b)


c) d)
Figure 30.52.

On a circular sinker-top machine the sinkers control the position of the old loop during
the clearing displacement. In the first figure 30.51 the sinkers have moved forward so
that the knitwear is held by the sinker throats.
The next three figures 30.52,a- 30.52,d show the knitting cycle with the sinkers first
moving forward to grip the knitwear prior to clearing as in the figure.
The second figure 30.53,a shows the needle moving upwards to the feeding position.
The next figure 30.53,b shows yarn feeding with the feeder moving towards the viewer
and positioning the new yarn across the open hook of the needle.
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The final figure 30.53,c shows the needle moving down after knock-over to draw the new
loop.
On a cylinder and dial machine the needles produce loops in a similar manner but the
needles from the two beds pass between each other in a similar way to rib knitting on a
v-bed machine. In figure 30.53,d (a) the feeder is moving towards the viewer and in (b) it
lays the new yarn between the two opposing needles.





Figure 30.53. Cylinder and dial knitting

30.11.1. Cylinder and dial knitting

In figure 30.53 (c) the dial needle has retracted before the cylinder needle and is in the
process of knocking-over the old loop. In figure (d) both needles have knocked-over and
are completing the process of loop formation.

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The following knitting modules progress from the basic concepts necessary to
understand the essential features of knitting machines and knitted structures through to
the advanced knitting principles required to understand and influence the design and
development of sophisticated engineered technical products.

31. Basic concepts necessary for understanding the basic
characteristics of the knitting machine
and knitted structures

The following knitting modules progress from the basic concepts necessary to
understand the essential features of knitting machines and knitted structures through to
the advanced knitting principles required to understand and influence the design and
development of sophisticated engineered technical products.


A short history of knitting: 31.1 of 31.4.


Figure 31.1. Closed loop Figure 31.2. Closed loop Figure 31.3. Closed loop
knitting knitting knitting

Figure 31.4. Closed knitting

The history of the textile industry extends back at least
as far as 7000BC when the weaving of plant fiber was
developed in Turkey. 7000 years later, at the start of the
Roman period, an extensive trade in textiles was
established throughout the known world with silk yarns
and woven fabrics being shipped from China westward
along the silk road to Persia, the middle east and then
to Rome and the west. Cotton yarns and woven knitwear (twists) were shipped from
India, across the Red Sea to Egypt and thence to Europe.
In contrast to weaving, knitting is a relatively modern development. The need for
garments with good stretch properties to fit the feet, hands and head had led to the
development by 1000BC of knotting and looping techniques for knitwear and garment
manufacture which fall into the category of sprang binding. These methods produced
good quality durable items but were slow and difficult to carry out.

31.1. Introduction to knitting
In this micro module the reader will be introduced to the basics of knitting technology.
The module proceeds through definitions of weft knitting and weft knitted bindings and
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finishes with a short comparison of the properties of weft knitted and interlacement
knitwear.
Introduction
In this micro module the reader will be introduced to the basics of knitting technology.
The module proceeds through definitions of weft knitting and weft knitted bindings and
finishes with a short comparison of the properties of weft knitted and interlacement
knitwear.
This micro module will provide a greater understanding of:
The differences between warp and weft knitting
The construction and properties of knitted structures
The types of basic weft knitted structures
The distinct properties of knitted and woven knitwear



Figure 31.5. Weft knitted structure Figure 31.6. Weft knitted structure

Figure 31.7. Weft knitted structure

Weft knitting can be described as the sequential
formation and interlinking of a horizontal row of loops,
formed from a single yarn supplied in sequence to each
needle, with the previously formed horizontal row of
loops. The horizontal (widthwise) rows of loops are
known as courses and the vertical (axial) rows of loops
are know as Wales.
These illustrations show the simplest weft knitted structure known as plain knit or single
jersey.


Figure 31.8. Warp knitted structure Figure 31.9 and 10. Warp knitted structure


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Warp knitting is the sequential formation and interlinking of loops in an axial direction on
a lateral array of needles with at least one separate thread being supplied to each
needle. The loops are joined together in a.
Navigation

31.2. Binding elements in weft knitting
The term binding can be used to describe the connection of one or more yarns in a
textile knitwear. The structure of a knitted can be evaluated by studying how the yarns
are bound or interconnected, and this can be illustrated using stitch (loop) figures.
The nature of the inter looping of the yarns that produce knitted structures depends on
the knitting principle that was adopted to produce the structure, i.e. weft or warp knitting,
and on the nature of the structure produced.
Width wise direction by moving the threads back and forth between adjacent needles
31.2.1. Stitches


Figure 31.11. Technical back and front of a stitch


Figure 30.12. Components of a stitch

each stitch or knitted loop consists of a top arc (head), two legs and two bottom half-arcs
(feet).
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At the place where the legs transform into feet there are two points of contact with the
previous stitch. These are defined as the lower binding points. At the point of contact
with the succeeding stitch there are two further binding points. Thus a stitch has four
binding points - two binding points at the head and two binding points at the feet of each
stitch.
Two binding points, therefore, build a binding unit. Thus a stitch has a total of four
binding points and two binding units.
A knitted knitwear is technically upright when its courses run horizontally and its wales
run vertically with the heads of the knitted loops oriented towards the top and the first
course at the bottom of the knitwear.
For a stitch, depending on the position of the legs at the binding points, a technical back
and a technical front side is defined. If the bottom half-arcs of the stitch are behind and
the legs in front, then this is the technical front of the stitch. This is called the face stitch
or plain stitch, stocking stitch, jersey stitch (USA) and flat stitch (USA). A face stitch is
produced by intermeshing a yarn loop towards the technical face side ( the side on
which the face loops show) of a knitwear.
If, on the other hand, the feet of the stitches lie in front of the binding points, and
accordingly the legs behind, then this is the technical back of the stitch. This is called the
back stitch, purl stitch, garter stitch or reverse stitch.

31.3. Basic weft knitted structures
Depending on the geometrical arrangement of the face and reverse stitches in a knitted
knitwear, i.e. heads, legs and feet of stitches, the following four basic knitted structures
are defined:
plain knitted twists-interlacement
rib knitted twists
purl knitted twists
interlock knitted twists
Plain knit structures



Figure 30.13. Plain knitted structure (back) Figure 30.14. Plain knitted structure (front)

If a weft knitted knitwear has one side consisting only of face stitches, and the opposite
side consisting of back stitches, then it is described as a plain knitted knitwear. It is also
frequently referred to as a single jersey knitwear (single knitwear).
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Plain knitted twists are produced by using one linear array of needles. As such all the
stitches are meshed in one direction. These knit wears tend to roll at their edges. They
roll from their technical back towards the technical front at the top and lower edges. They
also roll from their technical front towards the technical back at their selvedges (the self-
finished left and right-hand edges of the knitwear).
The structure is extensible in both lateral and longitudinal directions, but the lateral
extension is approximately twice that of the longitudinal extension.

31.3.1. Rib knitted structures




Figure 30.15. Rib knitted structure Figure 30.16. Rib knitted structure

Figure 30.17. Rib knitted structure

If on both sides of a relaxed weft knitted knitwear only
face stitches are visible, then it is referred to as a rib
knitted knitwear. It is produced by meshing the stitches
in adjacent Wales in opposite directions. This is
achieved by knitting with two needle systems which are
placed opposite to one another other. As such these
twists are also known as double jersey or double face
twists.
When the knitwear is stretched widthwise, both sides of the knitwear show alternately
face and reverse stitches in each course. Once the knitwear is released, it shrinks in its
width, thus hiding the reverse stitches between the face stitches. These twists do not curl
at their edges. The simplest rib structure is 1x1 rib shown on the right (click on a
thumbnail to view an interactive 3D image and examine the structure).
The longitudinal extensibility of the rib structure equals that of a plain knitted structure.
The geometry of the yarn path influences the elastic behave our of the knitted structures.
The change of direction of the inter looping of the stitches of neighbouring Wales (cross-
over points) results in the wales of a rib knitted structure closing up. This gives rib
structures better widthwise stretch properties than other basic knitted structures






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31.3.2. Purl knitted structures



Figure 30.18. Purl knitted structure Figure 30.19. Purl knitted structure

Figure 30.19. Purl knitted structure

If on both sides of a relaxed weft knitted knitwear only
reverse stitches are visible, then this is defined as a purl
knitted knitwear.
Purl knitwear are produced by meshing the stitches in
adjacent courses in opposite directions either by using
special latch needles with two needle hooks or by
transferring the knitwear from bed to bed between each
knitting action.
When the knitwear is stretched lengthwise, then the face stitches are visible. The
knitwear shrinks more in the direction of wales, and once it is released, it relaxes to hide
the face stitches between the courses.
The inter looping of the stitches of adjacent courses in opposite directions results in the
courses of a purl knitted structure closing up. The structure, therefore, has a large
longitudinal extensibility.
31.3.3. Interlock knitted structures
Interlock knitted structures (Figure 30.20-22) could be considered as a combination of
two rib knitted structures. The reverse stitches of one rib knitted structure are covered by
the face stitches of the second rib knitted structure. On both sides of the knitwear,
therefore, only face stitches are visible, and it is difficult to detect the reverse stitches
even when the knitwear is stretched widthwise.

The geometry of the yarn path influences the stretch behave our of the knitted knit
wears. The change of direction of the meshing of the stitches in adjacent wales results in
the wales of a rib knitted knitwear closing up giving it better stretch properties widthwise
as opposed to other basic knitted structures.

The combination of two rib knitted structures in the interlock structure gives very little or
no room at all for the wales or courses to close up, and therefore the interlock twists
show relatively poor stretch properties in both directions.



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31.3.4. Interlock knitted structures



Figure 30.20. Interlock knitted structure Figure 30.21. Interlock knitted structure

Figure 30.22. Interlock knitted structure

Interlock knitted structures could be considered as a
combination of two rib knitted structures. The reverse
stitches of one rib knitted structure are covered by the
face stitches of the second rib knitted structure. On both
sides of the knitwear, therefore, only face stitches are
visible, and it is difficult to detect the reverse stitches
even when the knitwear is stretched widthwise.
The geometry of the yarn path influences the stretch behave our of the knitted knit
wear. The change of direction of the meshing of the stitches in adjacent wales results in
the wales of a Rib knitted knitwear closing up giving it better stretch properties widthwise
as opposed to other basic knitted structures.
The combination of two rib knitted structures in the interlock structure gives very little
or no room at all for the wales or courses to close up, and therefore the interlock knit
wear show relatively poor stretch properties in both directions.

31.3.5. Comparison between simple weft knitted and interlacement
knitwear



Figure 30.23. Interlacement structure Figure 30.24. Weft knitted structure

When a plain knitted knitwear representation is compared with a plain interlacement
representation then the essential differences between knitted and interlacement knit
wear can be appreciated.
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In the interlacement knitwear the yarns are essentially straight and any significant
knitwear extension causes the yarns themselves to extend. The modulus of the knitwear
therefore tends to be similar to the modulus of the yarns. In a weft knitted twists the
yarns form continuous curves and the structure allows for yarn transfer between the
binding points. Considerable extension is therefore possible by loop shape distortion and
yarn movement without any yarn extension taking place. For this reason the modulus of
the weft knitted is usually considerably less than the yarn modulus.
Because of the potential for loop distortion and yarn transfer weft knitted structures
conform to double curvature much better than interlacement knitwear and are therefore
much more suitable for close fitting garments or upholstery.
Weft knitted twists trap more air in their structure than equivalent woven structures and
they therefore provide better insulation properties.

31.4. Meyer single jersey sinker machine

The above machine (Figure 31.25) is a Mayer 28 gauge single jersey sinker machine but
the general layout is typical of modern circular machines.
The above image shows the needle cylinder in the knitting area mounted in a very sturdy
tripod frame with the yarn feeding systems mounted on rings above and the knitwear
take-down and roll-up device below in the knitwear storage area. The yarn packages are
mounted in a side creel that can be seen on the right of the main machine frame and the
yarn is conveyed to the feed systems via tubes.



Figure 31.25. Meyer 28 gauge single jersey sinker machine


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Figure 31.26. Loop transfer needle

In the above figure the stitch spreader is shown is section D.

31.4.1. Transfer loop steps

The following sequence of images shows the 4 phases of the stitch transfer process.


Figure 31.27. Loop
transfer steps

In phase one (top
left, figure 31.27)
the blue transfer
needle rises in the
bed beyond the
clearing height so
that the loop is
spread over the
spreader.
In phase two (top
right) the receiving
needle in red moves
up to the tuck
position and
because its needle
bed is racked by half the needle pitch, it penetrates between the transfer needle shank
and the spreader, thus penetrating the spread loop.
In phase three (bottom left) the receiving needle moves up until its latch is fully opened.
In phase four (bottom right) the transfer needle retracts, leaving its loop on the opposing
receiving needle.
Stitch transfer is an expensive' process in production terms because the carriage
often has to traverse the machine to displace the needles without producing knitwear. To
transfer a loop from one needle to another on the same bed is particularly expensive as
it involves two separate stitch transfer sequences.
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On a circular sinker-top machine the sinkers control the position of the old loop during
the clearing displacement. In the first diagram(Figure 31.29) the sinkers have moved
forward so that the knitwear is held by the sinker throats.

31.4.2. Yarn feeders -Feed technology

The majority of jersey machines are built with very high numbers of feeds and cam
systems, typically 76 or 96. In this way for every revolution of the machine 76 or 96 rows
or courses of knitwear are knitted. Consequently 76 or 96 different yarns have to be fed
to the needles via the feeders. It is essential that the feeds remain stationary and do not
rotate, as rotation would involve large numbers of packages and would be mechanically
impractical. In consequence these machines operate with revolving cylinders so that the
needles move past stationary feeds.
In the figure 31.28 the feeds are mounted on the feed
ring above and inside the cylinder the yarns can be
seen traveling via ceramic feeders down to the knitting
point.

Figure 31.28. Circular knitting machine needle bed
31.4.3. Cam technology
Circular knitting cam systems on jersey machines only
allow for unidirectional knitting. Cam systems generate
both the needle and the sinker displacements for sinker machines and cylinder and dial
displacements for double jersey machines. The diagram below (Figure 31.29) shows
both the sinker cam track above and the needle cam track below. The needle track
shows the typical three stage needle displacement of (1/4) the raising or clearing cam,
(2/3) the lowering or stitch cam
and (5/6) the guard cam that
returns the needle to its entry
position for the next cam system.
The sinker track shows the
engaged position (section 7) when
the needle is clearing. The sinker
disengages in sections 8 and 9 so
that knock-over can take place and
re-engages into section 7. The
displacement diagrams of the
needles and sinkers are also
shown.
Figure 31.29.Needle cam system
In order to allow for the very
highest knitting speeds the latest
machines use cams where the
displacements follow polynomial
curves designed to minimize the
acceleration on the needle and the
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pulse when the needle changes direction. These continuous cam tracks are machined
into metal blokes that do not allow for the individual movement of the lowering cam or
stitch cam. On these machines the stitch size is adjusted by moving the sinker ring up or
down on a sinker machine or by varying the cylinder/dial separation on a double jersey
machine.
31.4.4. Needle selection I

Clearly if all the needles in a knitting machine carry-out exactly the same movements for
every cycle of the machine then a uniform regular structure is produced. If it is necessary
to change the structure between cycles or it is desired to introduce patterning then it is
necessary to be able to select needles to act differently from the rest. This action
requires a needle selection system. The effect of such selection will be discussed in the
module Circular machine knitwear structures.
The simplest form of needle selection involves equipping the needles with different
heights of butts for example high, medium and low butts and the following figure 31.30
illustrates the high, medium and low butt needles moving to knit, tuck and miss heights
respectively.
High and low or long and short butt selection is no longer used on circular machines as
the high torque that would develop between a high butt and a selection cam at high
speeds would lead to needle fatigue and trick damage. Circular machines use an
alternative form of fixed selection known as multiple track selection, in combination with
needles with cams at different points along the needle shank.


Figure 31.30. Needle selection
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31.4.5. Needle selection II


31.31. Four track cylinder cam block

The illustration (Figure 31.31) shows four feeds of a
four track cylinder cam block. The needle butts enter
from the left side and pass along the track through each
of the four feed positions successively. At the first left
hand position all needles have a run-through or miss
cam that results in no vertical displacement. At the
second feed position the needles with butts at the
highest position have a run-through cam whilst all the others have knit displacements. At
the third feed position needles with butts at the top position has a knit cam and the rest
have run-through or miss cams and finally at the fourth feed position all needles
encounter knit cams.
Fixed selection in conjunction with yarn color changes is capable of producing very
attractive and interesting knit wears but it does not allow the creation of jacquard twists.
In order to carry out such complex selection it is necessary to be able to act on each
needle independently so that it may carry-out one of the three knitting actions of a jersey
machine:
Knit
Tuck
Miss
Such selection systems are usually called jacquard selection systems and they allow
each needle in the cylinder to perform one of the above three actions at each cycle of
the machine. The dial selection is usually limited to two or four track fixed selection.
Modern selection systems usually operate by placing an auxiliary selection element
called a selector below the needle in the same trick and acting on the selector by means
of an electro-magnet to cause it to place the needle so that it may follow one of the three
actions of knit, miss or tuck.

31.4.6. Needle selection III

The figure 31.32 shows the electromagnetic selection system devised by Morat for the
Moratronic knitting machine in the late 1960's.

The figure shows the needle with a selector jack mounted below it in the same trick. In
the knit selection position the selector spring is held to the face of the control pole of the
electromagnet by a pulse of current and in this position the spring loaded jack remains
with its butt engaged in a lifting cam in the jack cam track which lifts it and moves the
needle above it into a knitting track.

If there is no current pulse as the control spring passes the control pole then the
spring straightens and forces the jack butt out of the jack control cam track with the
consequence that the jack is not lifted and the needle is not moved to the knitting track
and in consequence misses. If a tuck selection is required then the needle cam track
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must be manually modified to a tuck track and then all selected needles will tuck at that
feed position.
The Moratronic electronic selection system acts in real time on-the-fly' and is
perhaps the most elegant of all electronic selection systems. Due to the strength of the
Morat patent other machine manufacturers
were forced to adopt more cumbersome or
more complex systems, one even using
pulsed air pressure jets to deflect the needles
into knit or miss tracks. However the majority
used solenoids to position pressers to deflect
the selection jack away from the control track.
Because solenoids act more slowly than light
weight control springs the selectors were
lengthened with butts set-out in a chevron
arrangement to reduce the actuation speed of
the solenoid.Many machines both prior to the
development of electronic selection and for a
long time afterwards used mechanical
selection systems with limited pattern area but
these systems are now of historical interest
only.
Figure 31.32. Electromagnetic selection
system

31.5. Take-down technology

Circular jersey machines generally produce knitwear at a uniform rate around the
circumference of the cylinder and for this reason roller traction systems are suitable for
controlling the take-down or draw-down.
The figure 31.33 shows a mechanical take-down operated by cam driven ratchet and
pawls operating at position 14 on the diagram. The tension in the fabric was set by the
position or pretension of the ratchet release spring 9.
Modern take-down systems replace the ratchet and pawl drive with a DC motor or servo-
motor to provide precise tension control.

31.6. Machine control

Most machines have a machine control console attached to the main frame. This houses
the motor controllers for the main machine drive and the take-down system as well as
the microprocessor to store the needle selection information and control the individual
needle selection systems. Most machines also have counters to store the total
revolutions knitted and stop times and other production data.

Machines with jacquard selection systems are programmed by CAD systems that
enable the jacquard designs to be produced. In modern plants the machines are
networked so that the pattern data can be down-loaded directly and the production data
collected at a central work-station.
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31.33. Take-down system

32. Flat knitting machines, knitwear structure and patterning
This module will discuss the modifications that can be made to the four basic weft knitted
structures described in the module, Introduction to knitting, in order to introduce pattern,
structure and to generate modified fabric properties.
Introduction
By using the three methods of needle manipulation, namely knitting, tucking and missing
(described in the introductory module, Introduction to knitting), together with stitch
transfer and racking it is possible on V-bed machines to produce the four fundamental
knitwear structures already described:
Plain knitted twists
Rib knitted twists
Purl knitted twists
Interlock knitted twists.
32.1. Knitted twists- interlacement
Plain knitted knitwear can be manufactured on either the front or rear beds of the
machine (Figure 32.1.), or two plain knitted twists-interlacement may be produced at the
same time on both front and rear beds, these may be joined at the selvedge if required,
as in tubular knitting.
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Figure 32.1. Flat knitting machines
32.1.1. Weft knitted structure



Figure 32.2. Rib knitted knitwear Figure 32.3. Rib structure



Figure 32.4. Purl structure Figure 32.5. Interlock structure

Rib twists- interlacement are conventionally produced by arranging the needles in rib
gaiting and knitting on both beds simultaneously.
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Purl twists can be manufactured by knitting on all needles on one bed and then
transferring all the loops to empty needles on the opposite bed before knitting the next
course (row).
Interlock twists can be manufactured by arranging the needles in interlock gaiting or
half rack (see racking below) and knitting on even needles on one bed and odd needles
on the other for one course and then reversing the needle selection for the second
course and so on. Care must be taken to make the selection so that needles from the
front and rear beds do not collide.
By using different combinations of the four basic structures together with the
patterning and structure modification techniques described below it is possible to use a
Flat knitting machine to manufacture an infinite variety of twists with an amazing range of
appearances, properties and performance. The modern Flat knitting machine is the most
flexible knitting system (other than hand-knitting'), that has ever existed and its full
potential is only just beginning to be explored by the industry.

31.1.2. Use of the four basic structures
The overwhelming majority of Flat knitting machines installed around the world are used
for making garment lengths or garment panels. The overwhelming majority of garments
produced on these machines are made-up of combinations of the first three of the four
basic structures described above.

31.1.3. Plain knit knitwear
Plain knitting is most frequently used for the body' of garments because it is rapid to knit
and, due to its light weight, cheap to produce. It is a flat uniform knitwear with good
stretch and moderate recovery properties. Because of the unbalanced torsional forces
in the loop structure plain knit -twists curl and roll from the edges, especially when cut,
making sewing and linking more difficult than for balanced twists such as rib.

31.1.4. Rib structures
A whole sequence of different rib structures can be made depending on the number of
adjacent needles that knit together before the yarn moves to the other bed. For example
1x1 rib knits on only one needle before the yarn moves to the other bed. 2x2 rib knits on
two needles, 3x3 rib on three needles and so on. Non symmetrical ribs such as 2x4 may
also be used. The lower orders of ribs such as 1x1 and 2x2 show very good stretch and
recovery properties and are therefore much used for the waist and cuffs of garments.
The higher order ribs such as 5x5 and 6x6 are progressively closer to plain knitwear and
their properties are closer to those of plain knitwear. Higher order non symmetrical ribs
such as 6x2 may be used for the body of the garment as they are much closer to plain f
in their properties and cost but with an interesting vertical stripe effect.

31.1.5. Purl structures
In a similar way to rib structures a whole sequence of purl structures may be produced
from the basic 1x1 purl where stitch transfer takes place after every course (row) to
higher order purls such as 4x4 and 6x6 which behave increasingly like plain fabric but
with pronounced horizontal stripes. Purl structures, especially the lower order structures,
do not have good stretch properties but they do have good recovery properties and are
therefore suitable for the body of garments.

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31.1.6. Interlock structures
Interlock structures are not frequently manufactured on Flat knitting machines largely
due to their slow rate of production as they require two rows of knitting for every
horizontal row in the knitwear.

31.2. Patterning
Generally, patterns are produced in weft knitted structures either by using needle
selection to place selected colors in the face stitches in a systematic way so that a
pattern develops, or to produce surface relief effects based on the superposition or
combination of different types of stitch such as knit, miss, tuck, and transfer.

32.2.1. Objectives of patterning
The objectives of patterning may be one or a combination of the following:
To achieve structural effects
To modify knitwear properties
To achieve design effects. Example: color effects, jacquards etc.
Theory of patterning
Patterning is achieved:
By modifying the normal knitting cycle, for example knit, miss and tuck
By introducing additional steps to the normal knitting cycle; for example loop transfer or
needle selection
By varying the yarn feeding
By combining the above techniques
Patterning elements
The three primary binding elements (stitches, tuck loops and floats) are also used as
patterning elements in knitwear design. Orientation of the patterning elements can be
achieved by racking techniques. The position of the patterning elements can be altered
by knitted loop transfer techniques and by needle selection.

32.2.2. Tuck loops

Figure 32.6. Tuck loop

Tuck loops reduce knitwear length and increase
knitwear width and thickness. The resultant knitwear will
also be heavier per unit area as additional yarn is
introduced to the structure.The introduction of tuck
loops reduces knitwear length and lengthways
elasticity.
Half and full cardigan are common structures that use
tuck loops (Figure 32.6) to create bulky warm twists for knitwear goods. In comparison
with plain structures, they are much thicker and warmer, and therefore more expensive
to produce.
Full cardigan structure is made by alternatively tucking and knitting on all needles on
front and rear beds, when the front bed knits the back bed tucks and vice-versa.
Half cardigan is produced by knitting every course on one bed whilst knitting a full
cardigan sequence on the other. The knitwear is less heavy and warm than full cardigan
and has a recognizable front and back.
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32.2.3. Multiple tucks


Figure 32.7. Multiple tucks Figure 32.8. Multiple tucks

Multiple tucks (Figure 32.7-8) may either occur across the course (row) when adjacent
needles tuck, or a single needle may make repetitive tucks along one wale.
When a needle makes repetitive tucks the tension in the held loop steadily increases
due to the take-down traction and an accumulation of yarn occurs in the needle hook.
This accumulation usually limits tucking to 4 or 5 multiple tucks. Even so the effect in the
knitwear may be very striking with a pronounced three dimensional appearance.

32.2.4. Floats



Figure 32.9. Float Figure 32.10. Float

The introduction of floats to a knitted structure (Figure 32.9-10) reduces knitwear width
and thickness. The Wales are drawn closer together and, as a result, width ways
elasticity is also reduced. Plain knitwear, produced on one bed in flat-bed knitting, or
single cylinder in circular knitting, is relatively thin and inelastic.

32.2.5. Multiple floats
In a similar way to the development of multiple tucks above multiple floats can occur
either across the course, or the same needle can miss for several courses causing an
extended held loop in the wale direction. In a similar way to the tuck loop the number of
miss stitches on the same needle is limited due to tension increases in the held loop due
to take-down traction.
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32.2.6. Nlay yarn
Figure 32.11. Patterning element - inlay yarn
An inlay yarn (Figure 32.11) is inserted into the knitted
knitwear without it entering the hook of the knitting
needle and as a consequence its diameter is not limited
by the size of the hook or the gauge of the machine.
This technique allows very bulky yarns to be introduced
into otherwise fine structures and it therefore has the
potential to create interesting structural effects. In rib knitting the inlay yarn may simply
be held between the front and back loops of the knitwear structure, although a more
secure structure is produced if the inlay is occasionally fixed to the structure by feeding it
to a needle as a tuck element. In singe bed knitting it is necessary to form the inlay yarn
into regular tuck stitches in order to hold it in the technical back of the structure.
Otherwise, it would not be incorporated into the knitwear at all.
32.2.7. Horizontal striping

Horizontal striping is the most widely used and easily introduced design element. Yarn
ends of different colors (or textures) are fed with individual yarn carriers.

32.2.8. Intarsia designs
Intarsia designs are a development of part-course horizontal striping where the yarn
carrier only traverses part-way across the width of the needle bed; the knitting width is
divided into adjoining blocks of different colors or textures. Each block is knotted
together by knitting the two adjacent yarns on the same or on overlapping needles,
producing a slight saw tooth effect.

32.2.9. Plating
Plating usually involves the knitting of two yarns simultaneously using a special feeder,
so that only one of the yarns is visible on the face of the knitwear. The other yarn
consistently lies behind it within the loop. The two yarns can be of different colors and
textures (and usually different twist factors and staple length, since the face yarn
effectively disguises the ground yarn).

32.3. Racking

Figure 32.12. Racking

Structural jacquards and shaped panels
are produced with the twin techniques of
racking and stitch transfer. In V-bed
knitting, racking (Figure 32.12) is the
horizontal movement of one bed in
relation to the other. The loop inclination
that this produces during knitting is
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permanent and is most pronounced when tuck loops are introduced into the structure.

32.3.1. Racking and loop transfer
Racking the needle beds so that a loop can be transferred from a needle on one bed to
the other (a technique known as half-rack) produces the technique of stitch transfer. This
technique is essential when changing from rib knitting to plain knitting on a V bed
(bearing needle), or when producing structural jacquards (where needles are in and out
of action).

32.3.2. Limitations of racking
In racked stitches, the inclination of the stitches due to racking is relatively insignificant in
basic knitted structures (rib). However the racked effect can be improved by using some
empty needles on one needle bed or by racking a needle bed two needles at once.
The racked effect (slope of the stitches) appears on the side where the needles have
formed their stitches when the needle bed was racked. For a stitch to have a racked
effect in the knitwear, the displacement of the needle bed must cross its needle with a
needle forming a tuck on the opposite needle bed.

32.3.3. Loop transfer racking
The purpose of loop transfer racking is:
Narrowing and widening
Structural effects
Combination of basic structures, e.g. rib with plain structures
Special effects by combining knitted loop transfer with racking, e.g. cables
The technique of racking and transferring is essential when the width of a knitted panel
is altered during knitting. Needles at the selvedge of the knitwear can be put into action,
either individually or in groups, to gradually widen the fabric over a number of courses.
In narrowing, the process is more complicated. Firstly, the selvedge stitches should be
transferred to empty needles on the opposite bed. The beds must then be racked before
the loops are transferred to the other bed. The old needle is then put out of action,
reducing the total amount of needles knitting, and thus the width of the knitwear. The
procedure is repeated over a number of courses and the knitwear is gradually narrowed.
This technique is easily programmed onto modern flatbed machines via a pattern
generation system (or CAD system) with pre-programmed shorthand techniques
installed (commonly known as automatic knitting, or automatics). Automatic knitting
reduces the amount of time spent generating a garment but, as more complicated
panels and garments are knitted, the more expensive rejects and damages become. The
emphasis in the future should therefore be on quality.

32.4. Pattern racking
A pattern repeat of racked and straight Wales can be produced across one side of a full
cardigan knitwear. It is knitted with a needle-out sequence with racking to the right after
every second course and to the left after the next two-course sequence.
With this arrangement, a needle racked to the right and later to the left past a tuck loop
on a needle in the other bed will produce a wale of inclined loops, whereas a needle
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racked to the right and left past an empty needle trick will produce a wale of upright
loops.
The sequence can be interrupted by making two successive racks in the same direction
before continuing the previous sequence. The needle that was racked past the tuck will
now be racking past an empty trick, so its wale changes from inclined to upright loops,
whereas the needle previously racked past an empty needle is now racking past a tuck
loop, so the loops in its wale are no longer upright but inclined. The changeover in either
direction can be achieved whenever required.
32.4.1. Knitted loop transfer

Figure 32.13. Knitted loop transfer

The direct needle loop transfer stitch is
produced by the transfer of a loop from one
needle to another in the opposite bed.
1. The transferring needle is at knitted loop
transfer height.
2. The hook of the receiving needle is
penetrating the knitted loop.
3. The knitted loop has opened the latch of
the receiving needle.
4. The transferred loop is in the receiving
needle hook.
Loop transfer may be used to:
1. Produce shaped garment panels
2. Produce a design or pattern
3. Change the stitch structure
4. Knit purl structures
The question of shaping and garment manufacture will be addressed in the module,
garment manufacture on V-bed machines.
The knitting of purl structures is the straightforward use of loop transfer to remove the
loop from the needle on which it was knitted and place it in the hook of the opposing
needle in the opposite bed so that the next stitch can be drawn through the structure in
the opposite direction.
The use of loop transfer to change the structure most frequently applies in changing from
rib knitting to plain knitting when the loops from one bed are transferred to the other bed
so that knitting can continue on one bed only. This most frequently occurs when the
body of the garment is to be produced in plain knit and the welts and rib is produced in
rib. Equally loop transfer may be used to change from a plain knit structure on one bed
to a rib structure on two beds by transferring every alternate needle loop from the plain
knit bed to the other bed.
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The use of loop transfer to create pattern and surface or structural effects can vary from
the very subtle drop-stitch patterning where a loop is transferred out of the wale where
the drop stitch will be selected to stop the drop stitch laddering, to large complex
structures such as cables and to all over transfer

32.5. Yarn feeding techniques
Yarn feeding techniques include:
Doubling
Plating
Inlay
Intarsia patterns
patterning as seen in Aran designs.
32.5.1. Doubling
Doubling has the following advantages:
Produces even-knitted twists
Pattern effect with different colored yarns
Improves knitting performance
Higher knitwear density
Blending of different yarn materials
Reduce spiraling by using S & Z twisted yarns
32.5.2. Jacquard knitting

Figure 32.14. Three color jacquard (front) Figure 32.15. Three color jacquard (back)

Individual needle selection enables color jacquards (Figure 32.14-15) to be produced,
either as single twists (with floats on the reverse, linking each color area, which can be
quite long and can snag, or can be tucked in to the face at regular intervals to limit the
float length) or as rib knitwear jacquards. The latter are more stable and have a variety of
backings, including striped, birds-eye or ladder-back.
It is important to remember that in jacquard knitting the colors that do not show on the
face of the knitwear are floating either in the middle of the structure for rib jacquards or
on the back of the knitwear for single jersey jacquards. For this reason as the number of
colors in the design increases the weight and thickness of the knitwear rapidly increases
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and for reasons of cost and knitwear properties the number of colors is usually limited to
2 or 3. The following illustration shows the hidden colors floating within a three color rib
jacquard structure with a striped back.
A more detailed description of jacquard knitting will be given in the module Graphical
representation of knitting.
The use of jacquard patterning within V-bed (bearing needle) garments has been
infrequent during the last 30 years and is driven by fashion trends.

32.6. Circular knitting knitwear structures and patterning
This module will provide illustrations and notations for the most popular circular knitted
jersey structures and discuss the reasons for their popularity.
Introduction
Modern large diameter circular knitting machines divide into two categories: single jersey
and double jersey machines. These two categories then both subdivide into plain
knitwear machines and jacquard machines. The plain knitwear machines generally only
have fixed cam selection. Modern jacquard machines are almost always electronically
controlled and in the case of single jersey machines, usually offer three-way selection
i.e. knit, miss and tuck.
In order to understand the current state of the market, it will be helpful to consider a brief
history of the jersey knitting industry.

32.6.1. The development of jersey knitting in the UK

Figure 32.16. Fred Perry or Lacoste notation

At the beginning of the 1900s, the market for knitted goods was largely
the same as it had been for the previous 200 years: knitted hats and
gloves, knitted woolen rib under wear, fishermen s jerseys and a growing
market for hand knitted cardigans for women.
Although so-called jerseys have been hand knitted since at least the mid-
1800s (and probably much earlier in fishing communities), the demand
for jersey knitwear in the UK (as opposed to jersey garments) started to
develop in the late 1920s and early 1930s as a consequence of the success of women s
fashion wear, which utilized soft flowing fabrics.
Fine gauge (18 or 20 gauge) single jersey knitwear from silk or wool offered a soft
handle with an extremely fluid drape and they rapidly became popular for women s dress
goods. Rib knitwear were not so popular: they did not drape so well and fine gauge rib
knitting on large diameter circular machines was problematic because a yarn breakage
would lead to a press-off as the loops were lost from all needles.
During the 1930s a new market sector, that of sportswear, began to develop. Men
started to wear pullovers for cricket knitted on 5, 7 and 10 gauge Flat knitting machines
and 10 gauge circular garment length machines. Sweaters were also worn for tennis by
men and women and a new garment, the tennis shirt, was made on 18 and 20 gauge
single jersey machines. Typical structures included the Fred Perry structure named after
a successful Wimbledon champion. The notation of the Fred Perry structure is shown
(Figure 32.16) where the cross represents a knit stitch and the dot a tuck stitch.
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32.6.2. The development of jersey knitting in the UK

With the demise of rag time as Europe moved towards war, the demand for soft fluid knit
wear faded and would not grow again until the mid to late 1970s after the collapse of the
double jersey market.
Following the Second World War, economic conditions in the UK and Europe were
difficult and the market for knitted goods was relatively static with rib and interlock in
wool and cotton being used for underwear. The market for soft flowing single jersey knit
wears was lost but men had become accustomed to wearing pullovers in the army and
this habit grew into the beginnings of a leisurewear market, with sweaters being worn at
home, as well as on the cricket field and at the tennis club.


Figure 32.17. Cylinder and dial machine Figure 32.18. Interlock structure

The problems associated with rib knitting on fine gauge equipment remained. The
diagram below shows rib knitting on a cylinder and dial machine. If the red yarn should
break, then the loops will be lost from all needles leading to a knitwear press-off.
Press-offs cause needle and trick damage and result in extended downtime and loss of
production. In order to resolve the press-off problem, interlock machines with two track
cylinders and dials were developed. This enabled knitting to take place on alternate
needles. The resultant interlock structure is shown (Figure 32.18).

32.6.3. The development of jersey knitting in the UK


Figure 32.19. Four track cylinder cam

With the interlock structure, a yarn breakage would lead
to the loss of loops from alternate needles only and a
press-off would be avoided. A full press-off would only
occur if the yarn broke on two adjacent feeders
simultaneously, something that happens very rarely.
The interlock structure has the disadvantage that it is
produced at half the rate of rib because two feeder
courses are required to complete one course in the knitwear.

In the late 1800s and early 1900s, rib twists- interlacement knitted from wool were used
for underwear for both men and women. The development of interlock machines led to
the progressive replacement of rib with interlock, and the growing use of interlock
machines in the USA led to the introduction of cotton interlock underwear as an
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alternative to woolen underwear.

The interlock machine is essentially a plain knitwear machine. It is possible to knit
horizontal stripes by grouping colored yarns on adjacent feeders but with only limited
flexibility in terms of stripe thickness. In order to increase the knitwear structure potential,
four track cylinder cam systems were introduced in the 1950s and 1960s.

The figure 32.19 shows a modern (1980s) four track cylinder cam.
Four track selection gave the freedom of needle selection to knit, miss or tuck within a
minimum of a 4x4 stitch matrix and this flexibility, together with a two track or interlock
dial, created the knitwear structure framework that would lead to the growth of the
double jersey fabric industry.

At the same time, machine diameters were increased to 24, 28 and then 30 inches,
and the number of knitting feeders was increased to 12, 24 and 36 by the late 1960s.
The 30-inch machine was capable (depending on the knitwear structure, see below) of
knitting knitwear widths that were comparable with broad loom woven twists, i.e. 68-72
inches (172-182cm) and could be laid-up and cut efficiently on the same cutting tables.
The introduction of the four track cylinder increased the structure potential of the large
diameter cylinder and dial machine and this led to the development of the double jersey
industry.

32.6.4. The development of jersey knitting in the UK

Interlock is essentially two interconnected rib structures and as a consequence, it has a
very high width stretch: too high for the manufacture of tailored garments. The
introduction of single jersey courses or miss floats into the structure reduces the width
stretch and increases the overall knitwear stability making it more suitable for tailoring.

Typical of the double jersey knit wears that became popular in the 1960s and 1970s are
Swiss and French piqu. Although they are knitted on rib gaiting, the dial always knits on
an interlock basis and this alternate needle knitting prevents complete press-offs even
when all cylinder needles knit in the same course.

The figure 32.20 Swiss double and shows the loop notation for French double piqu
(Figure 32.21).
32.6.5. The double jersey boom 1960-1975
The remaining ingredient in the mix causing demand to explode was something that set
double jersey knitwear apart from the woven woolen fabrics that dominated the womens
dress market at that time.

The magic ingredient was false-twist textured polyester, a new yarn that offered easy
care properties and high levels of durability with a comparatively soft handle and which
could be successively knitted on the double jersey machines but not successfully woven.
In contrast, woven woolen knitwear could not be washed, they had to be dry cleaned
and the false-twist yarns could not be woven successively either in the warp, where the
variations in temperature history from end to end caused warp stripes after dyeing, or in
the weft where tension control was a problem as well as color bars.
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Figure 32.20. Swiss double and Figure 32.21. French double pique

The combination of aggressive brand promotion (ICI Polyester), together with the novelty
of the handle and properties of the double jersey knitwear as compared with the well
known woven woolens, resulted in a revolution in consumer taste and the sales of
polyester jersey dresses doubled every year from 1961-1966.

In effect, it was a single product boom based on 167 dtex twist textured polyester knitted
on 18 gauge double jersey machines into only a very few different knitwear structures.
As well as the two piqu structures described previously and four feed Punto-di- Roma,
the following interlock base structures were also used but less frequently.
Whenever the early textured polyester yarns were knitted into plain knitwear and piece
dyed, there was a potential problem of barred caused by differential dye uptake from one
yarn to the next. The problem could be minimized by knitting the yarn into a highly
textured or broken surface. The double jersey blister structures offered an ideal solution.

32.6.6. Double jersey blister structures

Blister or cloqu structures are created when there are zones in a double jersey
structure without inter-stitches or connections between the face and back of the
knitwear, in effect knitting a separate single jersey knitwear on a portion of the face of
the double jersey structure. In its simplest form, the knitting of rolls on a hand v-bed
(bearing needle) creates a blister structure across all needles. The notation (fig. 32.23)
shows a single blister structure with needle selection being used to determine which
needles form the blister.
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Figure 32.22. Interlock plain structure


Figure 32.23. Single blister structure
In the illustration, the blister yarn knits on the
cylinder only and the knitwear formed by feeders 2
and 4 is not linked to the reverse.

When the blister course alternates with the ground
course, the structure is called a single blister. If
two blister courses occur after each ground course
then the structure is called a double blister. The
illustration (Figure 32.24) shows a double blister
structure.

The double blister structure gives a more
pronounced three-dimensional effect and was
used extensively in the 1960s to hide the barred
caused by dye-uptake variations or yarn texture
variations.


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32.7. Color jacquard structures
An alternative way to produce a knitwear without barred was to use needle selection to
knit dyed yarn into a color jacquard. Jacquards could be knitted with two, three or four
color patterns. The cylinder needles knit or miss to create the pattern and when a color is
not knitting on the face of the knitwear, it knits on alternate dial needles. The picture
below shows a three color jacquard knitted in textured polyester.

Figure 32.24. Double blister structure

In this knitwear, a single blister technique is used
to create texture in the blue ground of the pattern.
The reverse of such twists were arranged in a
birds-eye backing to distribute the three colors
evenly. The picture below shows birds-eye
backing.
The knitwear and structures described above
dominated the UK double jersey industry during its
most rapid growth from 1960-1970. During this ten
year period, the number of 18 gauge 30-inch
machines installed in the UK rose from around 500
to 12,000, a 24-fold increase. During the same
period, machine productivity increased from
typically 24 feeds rotating at 10RPM to 48 feeds
rotating at 20RPM, a four-fold increase.
If we assume that all the installed machines were
knitting at the beginning and the end of the ten
year period, then the growth in production would
have been close to 100-fold. Not all of this was
textured polyester. In the second half of the period,
knitters started to use cotton spun acrylic yarns,
typically 1/22s cotton count, to provide an alternative to the 100% polyester knitwears
and the market again increased rapidly assisted by aggressive marketing (Courtaulds
COURTELLE).

32.7.1. The end of the double jersey boom

During the last years of the 1960s, the demand for double jersey twists in the USA
outstripped production and the UK started to ship polyester and acrylic knit wears across
the Atlantic. By 1972, the texturing industry had started to use double heater machines
with much better temperature control and to produce yarns with less stretch that could
be successively woven into controlled stretch knit wears. The knitting industry no longer
had a monopoly over the use of polyester and the fashion industry started to move away
from double jersey. However the UK continued to install more machines, lifting the total
to 15,000 by 1975 and export the UKs excess production to the USA.

The stage was set for the biggest market collapse in the history of the knitting industry.
In the period 1960 to 1975, the world stock of double jersey machines had grown from
an estimated 4,000 to 50,000, the majority of which were 18 gauge machines.
By 1974-5, the demand for double jersey twists in Europe had started to collapse. The
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market remained stronger in the USA where there was some success in selling polyester
jersey into mens wear, a trend that was copied in the UK without success, despite a
marketing campaign by ICI (Polyester for Men). British men were used to high quality
worsted knit wears and equivalent fabrics could not be made economically on 18 gauge
double jersey machines. A few 22 and 24 gauge machines were installed in the UK with
some limited success in the mens wear market but by 1976, the demand for 18 gauge
polyester and acrylic was finished and there was no alternative but to mothball
thousands of machines in the UK and Europe and hope for better times.

32.7.2. Yarn tension, cam forces and robbing back

This module will focus on the process of loop and knitwear formation on a weft knitting
machine. The influence of cam angle on needle butt and yarn forces will be explained
and the complex interaction between cam angle, yarn friction, yarn strength and knitting
speed will be discussed. The question of loop length will be discussed as will the
importance of robbing-back and positive feed in the management of knitwear quality.
Even though the two knitwear look very similar, the French double piqu was more
popular than the Swiss because it threw out wider for the same yarn count and stitch
length. The reason for this difference in width is that the dial-only courses 2 and 4 in the
Swiss double piqu do not cast-off for three courses and the dial-only loops are
stretched and they rob yarn from the floats, which reduces the width of the knitwear.

In contrast, it is the cylinder and dial courses of French double piqu that are held on the
dial for three courses but in this case, the robbed yarn comes from the cylinder loops
without affecting the knitwear width.

The double piqu knitwear structures have a definite face and reverse (front and back)
and if for any reason one side shows faults (for example needle lines) the knitwear
cannot be reversed on the cutting table. For this reason, twists with an identical face and
reverse had distinct advantages for the industry. An example of such a structure is
Punto-di-Roma. This structure knitted on interlock gaiting has the clean appearance of
interlock but with much reduced width stretch and without any tendency to roll from the
cut edges.

With the introduction of two track dials and four track cylinders and the increase in the
number of feeders to 36 on a 30-inch diameter machine, the technology was in place for
the creation of the double jersey boom.

32.7.3. Knitting on a needle array

As we have seen in Flat knitting machine and Circular machine technology, the needles
are displaced by the cam system in such a way that they reciprocate out and back into
the trick. As the cam system moves across the needle bed the needles move forward
and back in a wave formation.




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32.8. Action of needles and cam system
A number of problems arise in this apparently simple loop formation sequence that
cannot be predicted if each needle is viewed an independent loop forming element.
Due to the proximity of adjacent needles in the needle bed, several are traveling down
the stitch cam at any given moment in time. The actual number depends on the gauge of
the machine and the cam angle.

32.8.1. Knitting on a needle array



Figure 32.25.Cam angle

With high cam angles (55-58 degrees) there are fewer needles on the stitch cam than
with a low angle cam (45-50 degrees) as shown in the diagram. Typically there are 4 or
5 of these, of which 3 or 4 will be drawing the new yarn through the old loops. In effect 3
or 4 loops are linked together during the loop formation process with the yarn flowing
through the needle hooks higher on the cam towards the needle hook lowest on the
cam, and changes in yarn tension can influence the distribution of the yarn between
those linked loops.
Critical variables in this process are:
Cam angle
Yarn friction
Machine gauge
Knock-over displacement
Yarn input tensio
Knitwear take-down tension
As well as influencing the tension build-up in the knitting zone, the cam angle influences
the forces between the needle butt and the cam and the accelerations to which the
needles are subjected.
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32.8.2. Cam angle and yarn tension
The influence of cam angle on the impact forces between cam and needle butt and the
influence of cam angle on the tension build-up in the loop formation zone are critical
issues for a complete understanding of the weft knitting process.
32.8.3. Needle butt impact with cam system
If we assume for the sake of this discussion that the cam angle is 45 degrees, that the
cam is traveling at 1 meter/sec horizontally at right angles to the needle shanks and that
the needle and trick walls are rigid, then just prior to impact the needle has a vertical
velocity of 0 meter/sec. As the trick wall prevents the needle from horizontal
displacement then immediately after impact the needle must have accelerated to 1
meter/sec vertically.
Close examination of the animation makes it clear that the time available for the
acceleration, t, is very small indeed.
32.9. Action of needles and cam system
If the needle butt and trick wall are rigid and inelastic and there is no play between the
needle and trick, then the horizontal butt displacement due to the impact would be close
to 0 and the time available for acceleration, t, would be close to zero also.
As linear acceleration is equal to final velocity divided by time, then even with a modest
final velocity of 1 meter/sec the acceleration would tend towards infinity. In order to
generate this acceleration the force between the needle and the butt would tend to
infinity and clearly the butt or the trick would break.
The only way in which the time, t, can be extended is for the butt to displace
horizontally during the impact period. For example if the butt displaced by 1mm then the
time available is equal to distance divided by velocity, 0.001/1 or one millisecond. A
displacement of 2mm would provide 2 milliseconds for acceleration and so on.
In practice the needle butt is elastic and there is play between the needle and trick and
this provides for the horizontal butt displacement during acceleration that limits the
acceleration, and thus the reaction between the butt and cam, to tolerable levels.
From this perspective, the lower the cam angle, the lower the final vertical velocity and
therefore the lower the acceleration and the force on the butt. From the simple
perspective of the needle/cam impact the lower the cam angle the better.

Similarly reducing the horizontal velocity of the cam system will also reduce the butt/cam
impact force. For example, halving the cam velocity will double the time available for
acceleration and half the impact force but this will also impact on the knitting speed and
reduce the productivity of the machine. Modern Flat knitting machines can operate at or
in excess of 1 meter/sec.

32.9.1. Cam angle and yarn tension

The diagram (Figure 32.26) illustrates the effect of cam angle on the number of needles
engaged in loop formation at any given time. For example, with a cam angle of 58
degrees, 4 needles are in contact with the leading face of the cam. In comparison a
lower cam angle of 45 degrees causes 6 needles to be engaged in loop formation and
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as the cam angle is reduced, the number of needles engaged with the cam increases
steadily.

At first sight, this does not seem to pose any problem for the function of the machine
and in order to understand the significance of the difference between the two cam
angles it is necessary to consider the interaction of the yarn with the needles and
trick/sinkers during loop formation.

This figure 32.27 illustrates an idealized representation of the yarn path into the loop
formation zone of the machine. The yarn travels from the package (cone) into the knitting
zone from the left and prior to contact with the first needle is under a tension of T
I
. The
loops as they exit the knitting zone are subject to a take-down tension of T
K
. As the yarn
is pulled into the knitting zone by the descending needles it rubs against the needle
hooks and the trick/sinker surfaces and this causes the tension to increase.
The increase in tension follows the Bollard equation (Figure 32.28): T
2
/ T
1
= e

, where
is the angle of contact between the yarn and the needle/trick in radians.
As yarn travels over successive surfaces the tension builds-up according to : T
n
/ T
I
=
e

, where is the coefficient of yarn on metal friction, Til the yarn input tension, is
the sum of the contact angles and Tn is the tension after the nth contact. This leads to
an exponential increase in tension, illustrated by the next diagram, for the 58 degree
cam with 6 contact points between yarn and needle/trick.
If we refer back to the previous diagram, the 58 degree cam generates 6 contact angles
and the tension build-up is illustrated above. In comparison the 45 degree cam
generates 10 contact angles and the corresponding yarn tension build-up will be very
much higher, so high that yarn breakage may well pose a problem.

Figure 32.26. Cam angle Figure 32.27. Representation of the yarn path

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32.9.2. Cam angle and yarn tension



Figure 32.28. Bollard equation Figure 32.29. Yarn tension

32.9.3. Compromise between needle / cam impact forces
and yarn tension

The knitting machine designer is therefore faced with a dilemma: to minimize the
magnitude of the needle/cam impact force the cam angle should be reduced but to
minimize the yarn tension in the knitting zone the cam angle should be maximized.
In practice, the maximum possible cam angle that will permit needle butts to accelerate
without breakage is close to 58 degrees and the minimum cam angle consistent with
acceptable yarn breakage is 45 degrees. Modern machines therefore employ stitch
cams with angles higher than 45 degrees, generally in the region of 50 to 55 degrees.

32.9.4. Cam angle and circular machine productivity

For circular machines another advantage of using high cam angles is that the horizontal
extent of the complete cam system is much shorter with 55 degree cams than with 45
degrees, in the proportion of 0.7/1.0 ( proportional to the co-tangent of the angle).
In other words the 55 degree cam is 30% shorter than the 45 degree cam and
approximately 30% more cams can be fitted around a given circumference. A 30%
increase in the number of feeders provides 30% more courses/minute at the same
rotational speed assuming 100% efficiency. In reality the gain will be less because
stoppages due to yarn faults will be approximately 30% higher as well.

32.10. Quality control, robbing back, loop length and input tension

The illustration shows the yarn flowing into the loop formation zone and the onset of
robbing.
The process is called robbing back' and as much as 50% of the loop length may be lost.
The first consequence of robbing back is that the position of the stitch cam is not the final
factor that determines loop length.
The second consequence is that the degree of robbing back and therefore the loop
length is determined by the input tension T
I
, the coefficient of yarn friction and the
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balance between T
I
and T
k
, as all four variables influence the degree of robbing back
and all four factors may vary during the knitting process.

Figure 32.30. Robbin back

32.10.1. The True Positive Feed and quality
control in weft knitting

In order to control the knitwear quality it is therefore
necessary to control the knock-over depth K
d
, the input
tension T
I
, the take-down tension T
k
and the coefficient
of friction . With a modern V-bed machine the position
of the stitch cam and thus K
d
is controlled to a high degree of accuracy by a precision
stepper motor. St is determined by the gauge of the machine and is constant. The take-
down tension T
k
is monitored and controlled to close tolerances by a DC motor. The yarn
diameter and coefficient of friction are the responsibility of the yarn supplier and are
usually controlled to close tolerances. The variable that has remained out of close
control in V-bed (bearing needle) knitting until recently is T
I
.
The solution to the control of T
I
is positive feed. The principle of positive feeding is to
supply a precise length of yarn to each needle and this principle was first applied to
circular knitting in the 1960's. As long as each needle requires the same length of yarn
and the needles pass the feeders at constant velocity, (the situation on a non-jacquard
circular machine), positive feeding is simply a matter of delivering the yarn via a nip roller
at the appropriate constant rate.
With a Flat knitting machine (in contrast to the circular machine) the cam velocity is
constantly changing from zero after carriage reversal to a maximum and then to zero
again. To make matters more complicated, needle selection for stitch transfer and
racking as well as jacquard selection all mean that different needles need different
lengths of yarn to perform correctly.
This problem is so complicated that it has only recently been solved with the invention of
the True Positive Feed by Dr T Dias of the William Lee Innovation Centre.

32.10.2. Assisted feed systems and the True Positive Feed

Modern Flat knitting machines are usually equipped with feed systems designed to
deliver the yarn to the needles at low tension. This type of feeder is called an assisted
feed system because the system helps the yarn forward on its journey to the needles
and in this way reduces the absolute values of T
I
as well as reducing fluctuations in T
I
.
Assisted feeders reduce tension in the knitting zone and thus reduce the fault rate. They
do not however control loop length because they do not
control T
I
and therefore cannot control robbing back.
A modern Flat machine knitting shaped garments with
patterning requires different loop lengths for different
needles for each course in the garment. In order to supply
these continually varying loop lengths in real time, the True
Positive Feed must pre-calculate the yarn requirement and
deliver the changing yarn requirement in synchrony with the
feeder movement.

Figure 32.31. True Positive Feed
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The yarn is delivered by a capstan roller driven by a powerful DC motor with sufficient
torque to match the changes in yarn delivery to the changes in yarn requirement. In
order to pre-calculate the yarn requirement the True Positive Feed must have access to
the course-by-course needle selection programmer detailing the action of each needle
across the needle beds. In order to run in synchronization with the carriage movement
the True Positive Feed must have access to the carriage position data and the knitting
machine clock data.
The True Positive Feed must also have access to the feeder selection data so that the
correct motor and capstan can be energized. The True Positive Feed accesses this data,
pre-calculates the yarn requirement in real time as the carriage traverses the needles
and supplies the appropriate control signals to the drive motors.
With conventional synthetic yarns the True Positive Feed has been shown to control loop
length to +/- 0.5%. With assisted feed systems the control variability is typically +/- 2-3%.

Further reading
The mechanics of cam/needle interaction is complex and involves advanced
mathematics. The following references will give an insight into the theory and practical
issues, the latter references give more information regarding robbing-back and its theory
and control:

References

Knapton, J. J. F. The dynamics of weft-knitting: a mathematical analysis. Tex tile Res. J.,
1966, 36(8), 706-714.
Wray, G. R. and Burns, N. D. Cam-to-needle impact forces in weft-knitting: Parts I to
IV. J. Textile Inst., 1976,67(6), 189-209.
Wray, G. R. and Burns, N. D. Cam-to-needle impact forces in weft-knitting: Parts V to
VIII. J. Textile Inst., 1978,69(8), 229-249.
Wray, G. R. and Burns, N. D. Cam-to-needle impact forces in weft-knitting: Parts IX to
XI. J. Textile Inst., 1978,69(10), 301-320.
Jeong, KY1 and Kim, Y-B2. Dynamic modelling of the latch needle cam system of weft
knitting machines, 1.Department of Mechanical Engineering, Kongju National University,
Chungnam, Korea, 2.Department of Mechanical Engineering, Chonnam National
University, Kwangju, Korea.
Knapton I. F., Munden D. L., A study of the mechanism of loop formation on weft-knitting
machinery, Textile Research Journal, 12, 1966, pp.1072-1091.

32.11. Quality control in Flat knitting machines
This module addresses the issues that must be considered when implementing quality
control systems for Flat knitting machines, including yarn quality/lubrication, machine
settings, yarn feeding, positive and assisted feed systems and lint control. In addition the
causes of drop stitches, holes and press-offs and needle lines as well as fabric knitwear
are discussed.
Introduction
This module addresses the issues that must be considered when implementing quality
control systems for V-bed knitting, including yarn quality/lubrication, machine settings,
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yarn feeding, positive and assisted feed systems and lint control. In addition the causes
of drop stitches, holes and press-offs and needle lines as well as fabric barred are
discussed.
32.11.1. Quality
The quality of a knitted product is a complex concept. A one level it means a holistic
assessment of a range of visible and invisible factors such as the cut' of the garment, the
luster and softness of the yarn, the handle' of the knitwear, the fineness of the knit
structure, the excellence of the make-up and the quality of the design.
At another level it is assessed in terms of strictly measurable parameters such as course
and wale density, loop length or stitch length, knitwear weight/square meter, % of add-
ons such as lubricants and finishes, faults/ meter such as cuts and holes or knots and
dirt-marks/meter etc.
This module will not address the more subjective measures but will concentrate on the
measurable and thus controllable variables that provide the key to producing
consistently reproducible good quality knitted twists.

32.11.2.Yarn quality
In general terms the responsibility for yarn quality control lies with the yarn supplier;
however a number of aspects need to be understood by the knitter and regular yarn
testing may be necessary to ensure the yarns are consistent and fit for purpose. This
testing may include:Tensile strength and extensibility:
Yarn count check
Filament counting
Twist testing
Yarn bulk testing (false twist yarns)
Solvent extraction to assess lubricant/finish levels
Black-board testing to assess clubs and other yarn irregularity/faults
32.11.3. Yarn count (tex) and twist (turns/cm)

The responsibility for the accuracy of the yarn count and the tolerance levels for variation
in yarn count and twist (turns/cm), as well as the type and level of lubricant/finish, lie with
the spinner and are normally declared in the terms and conditions of sale. For highly
critical end-uses such as military items and technical textiles, special yarn quality
specifications and variability limits will be required and must be negotiated with the
spinner.

32.11.4. Yarn lubrication

The type and level of yarn lubrication determine the coefficient of friction of the yarn. In
weft knitting in particular, the coefficient of friction is a key factor in determining the
quality of the knitted product as it has a direct influence on the peak yarn tension in the
knitting zone and thus on the number of yarn breakages, as well as the extent to which
dropped stitches will ladder.

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32.11.5. Objectives of yarn lubrication

The main aim of yarn lubrication is to reduce yarn friction. Added advantages include:
Reduced abrasion effects on guide surfaces and needles - this is important with
hard synthetics (PA, PE)
Dissipation of static charges - this is important with 100% synthetic yarns
Better cohesion of the filaments
Improved yarn pliability. Due to lubrication, yarn becomes softer and more pliable
offering less resistance to the loop formation
32.11.6. Lubrication of filament and spun yarn
1. Lubrication of filament yarn

Generally fluids such as mineral oils and wax emulsions are used as lubricants. These
are applied in winding via lick-roller systems.
These include substances to reduce friction and anti-static and anti-corrosive
substances. It is important to apply about 0.5 to 2.0% of lubricant for good quality
lubrication and to control the viscosity very carefully.

2. Lubrication of spun yarns
Generally waxes or wax emulsions are used in the lubrication of spun yarns. The wax
emulsions are applied in winding via lick-rollers whilst the waxes are applied by running
the yarn over the surface of a rotating wax cylinder. Wax levels of 1 to 2% are typical.
3. Quality checks in winding
Winding, which is the transfer of the yarn from the primary or spinners' package to a
secondary conical package (cone) more suitable for weft knitting, provides an
opportunity to monitor the yarn electronically for a number of faults, including:
Knots
Thin places
Slubs or thick places
Weak places
The tension employed in winding causes weak places to break and results in knots.
Slubs and thin places are cut out by the electronic clearer and also replaced by knots.
All knots, including those generated by the clearing process, are placed on the nose of
the cone where they may be counted prior to packing. An agreed maximum limit of knots
per cone will be set and any cone that exceeds this limit will be rejected

32.12. Quality control: initial machine settings

The initial machine settings are important (see loop length control) especially if a number
of similar machines in the plant are to produce the same knitwear quality and for
consistency when repeat orders are likely. An agreed setting protocol must be
established including the machine bed temperature, either ambient or running
temperature at which the settings are made as well as the specific settings to be
measured and set.
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For single jersey sinker machines, the sinker timing and the sinker penetration must
be the same at all feeders on all machines producing the same knitwear quality, the
knitwear take-down systems must be set to produce the same take-down traction and
the stretcher-boards must be set to the same width. A knock-over gauge should also be
used to check the calibration of the stitch cam gauges on all the feeders ( note: on
modern machines with vernier stitch cam settings this will not be necessary). The
setting of the positive feed systems will be dealt with in the section on stitch/loop length.
For cylinder and dial machines the dial height must be set and the needle timing and
knock-over gauges should be used to check the calibration of all the cylinder and dial
stitch cams ( note: on modern machines with vernier stitch cam settings this will not be
necessary). Similarly the take-down systems should be set to produce the same take-
down traction and the stretcher-board widths made constant. On modern machines with
DC motor take-down systems, the take-down traction setting is simply a matter of setting
the control current for the motor to a specified level. For older mechanical take-down
systems it will be necessary to use a take-down tension gauge once the positive feed
systems and stitch cams have been set and knitwear with the correct loop length has
been knitted down through the take-down rollers (see positive feed).

32.12.1. Loop length control

There is an extensive body of research that demonstrates conclusively that the
controlling parameters of knitted knitwear quality are loop length and yarn diameter,
(normally measured in terms of Tex).
All other measurable quality control parameters such as courses/unit length, Wales/unit
length, stitch density, weight/square meter and knitwear thickness are ultimately
secondary to loop length and yarn diameter and controlled by them.

Despite the apparent simplicity of this control situation the reality of maintaining a tight
control on knitwear quality in a factory situation prior to the introduction of positive feed
was very complex if not impossible. An integral part of this difficulty lies in the fact that
the loop length and yarn diameter do not act as the primary control parameters until the
knitwear is close to the fully relaxed state. Prior to this condition the wale and course
densities as well as the thickness continue to be influenced by the machine gauge, the
dial height, the take-down tension, the stretcher-board width, etc.
In many cases the final product is not in a fully relaxed condition when it is sold and
therefore these secondary parameters need to be controlled as well, hence the need for
and importance of the initial machine settings protocol.

32.12.2. Loop length control
The complexity of the interaction of the factors that control loop length has been
discussed in depth in the module 'Yarn tension, cam forces and robbing back'. From this
discussion it is apparent that it is necessary to control the following variables in order to
be certain of controlling loop length:
Knock-over depth
Cam angle
Gauge
Sinker timing and penetration on a single jersey machine
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Needle timing (delay) on a cylinder and dial machine
Yarn input tension
Knitwear take-down tension
Stretcher-board width
Coefficient of yarn on metal friction
At first sight, this list of variables seems too extensive to deal with. However if the initial
machine setting protocol described above has been followed, and the machines are of
the same type and gauge, then the following variables will either be the same on all the
machines or will have been controlled:
Knock-over depth
Cam angle
Gauge
Sinker timing and penetration on a single jersey machine
Needle timing (delay) on a cylinder and dial machine
Knitwear take-down tension
Stretcher-board width
Conveniently this leaves two variables to deal with:
Yarn input tension
Coefficient of yarn on metal friction
The coefficient of yarn on metal friction is determined by the yarn structure and fiber
type, as well as the level and type of lubricant. Efficient yarn quality control measures
should be sufficient to ensure consistency.
In addition, the yarn rubs against the inside of the creel transfer tubes as well as several
ceramic yarn guides as it travels to the needles. This process causes a transfer of
lubricant onto the tube or ceramic when there are high levels of lubricant on the yarn and
a reverse transfer of lubricant from the tube or guide to the yarn when the yarn lubricant
levels are low. This tends to average or even-out any variations that may be present.

32.12.3. Yarn input tension
The problem that remains is how to control the input tension at the feed point for all the
feeders (typically 76-96) for a multi-feeder machine. If the needles are left to pull the yarn
directly from the supply package a number of factors intervene to cause the input tension
to vary.
Perhaps the most important factor relates to the diameter of the cone. On a machine
where the yarn speed is constant (plain knitwear), as the diameter of the cone steadily
reduces during unwinding, the rotational velocity of the balloon increases in inverse
proportion and as a result, the air resistance and the coriolis forces steadily increase,
causing the running yarn tension to increase.
Assuming the creel is filled with full cones at the start of knitting then the yarn tension
on all feeders will steadily increase as the cones wind down. If all the other control
variables remain constant then an increase in input tension will shift the tension balance
in the knitting zone towards the input side so that the number of needles involved in
robbing-back increases, with the result that the loop length decreases.
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Conversely when an empty cone is changed for a full cone the reduced balloon
tension will result in a reduction in input tension with a corresponding increase in loop
length. If this process is allowed to continue without check then the quality of the
knitwear will be continuously altering and, if high tension feeders are situated adjacent to
low tension feeders, then the difference in loop length may well produce horizontal bars
in the knitwear (barred).

32.13. Positive feed

Figure 32.32. Positive feed system

Once the principal of robbing-back' is understood then
it becomes clear that the solution to controlling the input
tension is to supply yarn to each feeder at the required
constant rate such that the yarn speed in meters/sec
divided by the number of needles knitting/unit time is
equal to the required loop length.
The photograph shows a positive feed system (Figure 32.32) comprising non-slip drive
belts that drive a series of driven capstan wheels (at least two driven by different belts at
each feeder). The yarn is taken round the capstan roller with multiple wraps so that no
yarn slip can take place.
With effective positive feed the knitting zone becomes a closed loop control system so
that if the loop length being knitted is greater than the amount being fed by the feed
system then the input tension will increase, causing an increase in robbing back and a
reduction in loop length. Conversely if the loop length being knitted is less than the
amount being fed then the input tension will decease, as will the robbing back, and the
loop length will increase. In this way the system self compensates and the loop length
remains the same as the positive feed setting.
In practice this type of positive feed system makes the task of setting up the machine
relatively straightforward.
The first task is to calculate the belt speeds, which are the same as the yarn speeds.
The belt speed is equal to the loop length multiplied by the number of needles knitting
per second. Normally the machine is equipped with four separate belt driven feed
systems so that four different loop lengths can be controlled at any one time.
Once the belt speeds are adjusted (by means of the variable diameter pulley shown in
the bottom left of the photograph) then the stitch cams can be set. Initially the positive
feed is disengaged at each feeder and a yarn speed meter may be used to set each of
the stitch cams to roughly the correct setting. Once this is done each positive feed drive
is engaged in turn and, with the machine knitting at creep speed, the stitch cam is
adjusted so that the yarn input tension stabilizer at 1-2 grams.
Once all the feeders have been adjusted in this way it is necessary to run the machine at
speed and fine tune the tension at each feed position. When the machine has been
stabilized in this way it will only be necessary to check the tension once during each
shift.
On the most modern machines, the variable diameter drive wheel is replaced with a
servo motor so that changes in belt speed can be made quickly and easily. The servo
motor driven positive feed system was first developed and published by Dr Tilak Dias at
UMIST and has now been adopted by most of the main machine builders.
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32.14. Loop length control on jacquard machines

Figure 32.33. IRO assisted feed system

When circular machines are knitting jacquard struct
ures, the amount of yarn needed per course is
continually changing with the design and a constant
speed positive feed system will not work. In this case
the solution to minimizing the changes in loop length is
to use an assisted feed system. The photograph (Figure
32.33) shows the IRO assisted feed system.

In this system each capstan wheel is driven by an individual synchronous motor in
such a way that a constant supply of yarn is maintained on an idealized smooth conical
surface situated immediately above the knitting point. In this way the tension variations
due to changes in cone diameter are largely eliminated, although the resultant loop
length is not as consistent as with positive feed.

32.15. Dropped stitches and holes
Modern machines may be fitted with knitwear scanners that detect dropped stitches,
holes and press-offs and stop the machine.
Dropped stitches are usually caused by the yarn missing the hook of the needle due to
vibrations in the yarn path, or due to a displaced feeder. Positive feed greatly reduces
yarn path vibrations and a displaced feeder will generate a sequence of dropped stitches
in a spiral down the knitwear that can be traced back.
Holes and minor press-offs are usually caused by the yarn breaking in the knitting zone
due to excess input tension or due to inadequate yarn lubrication. A feeder tension
check will reveal the former cause; the second is more difficult to track down but will
usually be caused by faulty cones on specific feeds and will result in a spiral sequence
of faults that can be traced back.

32.15.1. Needle lines

Needle lines occur when a needle latch or needle hook is damaged. In the most severe
cases, the needle hook is broken off and this results in a vertical wale of dropped
stitches similar to a missing needle. This is usually easily seen during a knitwear
inspection (even when the needle is situated in the dial) and is corrected by replacing
the needle. A knitwear scanner will also detect it.
The second type of needle line occurs if the needle hook is bent backwards (swan neck)
or the latch is trapped within the hook. When this happens the needle will either tuck in
an intermittent fashion or will tuck continuously causing a series of burst stitches. This
fault is usually sufficiently severe to be visible during a routine knitwear inspection and
may be detected by a knitwear scanner. The solution is to replace the needle.
Perhaps the most difficult needle line to deal with is caused by a protruding latch rivet, or
a cut or abrasion to the needle hook or shank. This kind of needle damage abrades the
yarn causing a fuzzy or hairy' needle line that will not be detected by a knitwear scanner
and is frequently missed in a routine knitwear inspection.
The problem is particularly difficult to detect if the needle is in the dial and the needle line
lies inside the tube. It is possible for this type of fault to continue through many hundreds
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of meters of knitwear and it is vital therefore to inspect the inside and outside of each
knitwear roll when it is separated from the machine.

32.15.2. Knitwear barred
There are a multitude of different causes of knitwear barred. The following list indicates
just a few of the many possible causes.
Mixed yarn count (Tex)
Mixed yarn twist
Mixed yarn color
Mixed yarn polymer
Mixed number of filaments
A filament yarn mixed with spun yarn or vice-versa
A deep dye yarn mixed with standard yarn
A high bulk yarn mixed with low bulk yarn
An elastomer stretch yarn mixed with standard yarn
A faulty stitch cam setting
A yarn dropped out of the positive feed
Many of these faults are due to poor housekeeping and will be detected by careful
knitwear inspection on the knitting machine or after cut-down. The most serious,
however, are faults like a deep dye yarn mixed with standard yarn. This fault will remain
hidden until the knitwear is dyed and will usually spoil many rolls of knitwear. Whenever
the risk of such mixes arises, a rigorous color coding of the yarn cones is essential to
prevent the possibility of serious financial loss.
32.15.3. Lint control
When spun yarn is being knitted in jersey plants, a considerable amount of fly is
generated and this fly settles on all stationary machine parts. Provided all machines are
knitting white cotton then the fly can be controlled by fly blowers on the machine and
systematic vacuuming of the plant and fittings. This is essential to prevent a fire risk
developing and preventing fly build-up from dropping onto the machine and getting
knitted into the knitwear.
However, if colored spun yarns are being knitted then contamination becomes a
serious cause of knitwear faults and must be prevented. The best solution is to install
totally enclosed fly control' creels with fly extractor fans. This, together with plastic sheet
separators between adjacent machines and regular systematic vacuum cleaning, will
keep the problem under control.

32.16. Graphical representation of weft knitted structures
Introduction
Diagrams are a simple way of understanding knitted structures and easing the
programming of the production process. A weft knitted twists can be represented in a
diagram in a number of ways. The most common methods are:
Stitch diagram
Yarn path notation (point paper)
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Technical pattern representation
32.16.1. Stitch diagrams
For simple structures such as plain knit (Figure 32.34), stitch or loop diagrams are an
acceptable way of representing the fabric structure. However this diagram of the most
simple weft knit structure is already difficult to draw accurately and as knitwear structures
become more complicated, stitch diagrams become more difficult and time consuming to
draw and more difficult to analyze. As such they are an inappropriate means of
communicating between designers and technologists.
Figure 32.34. Plain knit structure

32.16.2. Yarn path notations
The yarn path notation (derived from the Nottingham
notation) is a diagram, produced on point paper, of the
notional path of the yarn as it is fed to the needles. The
yarn is shown traveling around the needles, which are
represented by dots on a point paper'. The point paper
has a pattern of equidistant dots arranged in horizontal rows. Each row of dots
represents the needles in a needle bed or a needle bar and thus normally represents
one course in the fabric or one traverse of a single cam system.
32.16.3. Types of point paper
The diagram shows a number of different point paper configurations suitable for different
structures.
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Figure 32.35. Point paper configurations
32.16.4. Yarn path notations for common structures



Figure 32.36. Plain knitting Figure 32.37. Rib knitting




Figure 32.38. Rib knitting
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32.16.5. Plain knit

The diagram shows plain knit on the front and on the rear beds of a V-bed machine or
the cylinder and dial of a circular machine.
The notional yarn path shows the yarn crossing over itself as it passes round each
needle. This in fact does not happen in the knitwear, as it is a convention to make the
drawing easier.

32.16.6. Rib knit
The diagram shows 1x1 rib knitting on a v-bed or circular machine. Note the change in
direction of the meshing between adjacent Wales in the knitwear, which creates the
torsion forces in the yarn that cause rib knit wears to contract widthwise when they are
removed from the needles.
The notation can be compared with a diagram of rib knitting on the machine where the
difference between the notional yarn path and the true yarn path is clearly visible.

32.17. Yarn path notations for common structures
32.17.1. Purl knit
The diagram shows purl knitting on a v-bed machine together with the stitch transfer
necessary to knit it. This structure cannot be knitted on most multi-feed circular
machines because they do not have the facility to transfer stitches back and forwards
between the cylinder and the dial.



Figure 32.39. Purl knitting


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32.17.2. Yarn path notations for rib derivatives



Figure 32.40. Half cardigan or royal rib



Figure 32.41. Full cardigan or fisherman s rib Figure 32.42. Milano rib

32.17.3. Half cardigan or royal rib
The diagram shows the use of a tuck course together with a rib course to create half
cardigan. This structure is thicker and warmer than1x1 rib and has a distinct front and
back appearance.

Full cardigan or fisherman's rib
The diagram shows full cardigan (Figure 32.41). This is a much thicker and warmer
structure than either 1x1 rib or half cardigan and has an identical face and back.

Milano rib
The diagram shows a further rib variant, Milano rib (Figure 32.42), with one rib course
followed by two separate plain courses. This is a smooth faced knitwear with identical
front and back and subdued horizontal lines

32.17.4. Yarn path notations for rib derivatives

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Figure 32.43. Interlock Figure 32.44. Interlock



Figure 32.45. Punto di Roma Figure 32.46. Pique

32.17.5. Interlock
The diagram shows interlock stitch where each row in the knitwear is made-up of two
courses knitted on alternate needles.
This can be compared with a view of the needle beds showing the way in which two
successive courses lie in the same knitwear row.
A comparison of the two diagrams reveals the difference between the notional yarn path
in the yarn path diagram and the actual yarn path in the knitwear.

32.17.6. Punto di Roma
This diagram shows a rib derivative that is normally produced on fine gauge double
jersey machines. Of course it can be knitted on Flat knitting machines but Milano rib is
usually knitted instead as it is produced more quickly.

32.17.7. Pique
The last rib derivative to be shown is pique which uses tuck stitches to generate a
subdued pattern in the knitwear. Note the tuck stitch is represented by a yarn path that
just touches the needle but does not enclose it.

32.18. Technical pattern representation
The technical pattern representation is a development of the Leicester graph paper
notation. In the Leicester notation 0's and X's are placed in the squares of graph paper
to represent the face and reverse stitches in a knitwear. The technical pattern
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representation uses different symbols to represent the elements of the knitwear structure
(Figure 32.47). In comparison with the yarn path diagram or Nottingham notation which
shows the interaction between the yarn and individual needles in the machine, the
technical pattern representation shows the position and type of each loop in the fabric
structure.


Figure 32.47. Pattern representation
Different pattern papers are used
depending on the type of knitwear being
knitted.
32.18.1. Types of pattern paper
Plain and purl knitted structures are
represented using pattern paper
with equal squares
Rib and interlock knitted structures
are represented using pattern paper
with different size squares
32.18.2. Plain knit



Figure 32.48. Plain knitting (back needles) Figure 32.49. Plain knitting (front needles)

The diagram (Figure 32.48)shows the plain structure knitted on the back needles
This diagram (Figure 32.49) shows the plain structure knitted on the front needles

32.18.3. Plain knitted structure

Structural requirement: all the stitches are meshed in the same direction
Technical requirement: needles move in a defined needle plane (i.e. one needle system)

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32.18.4. Purl knit

Figure 32.50. Purl knitting

The diagram shows a representation of purl knit (Figure
32.49).
Structural requirement: stitches of neighbouring
courses are meshed in different directions
Technical requirement: needles moving in two
different needle planes with the knitted loop
transferring (i.e. either two needle systems or a
double ended latch needle system)

32.18.5. Rib knit

Figure 32.51. 1x1 rib

This diagram shows 1x1 rib (Figure 32.51)
Structural requirement: stitches of neighbouring
Wales are meshed in different directions
Technical requirement: two sets of needles
moving in two different needle planes (i.e. two needle systems in rib gaiting)
32.18.6. Interlock

Figure 32.52. Interlock knitting

Interlock knitted structures knit or repeat on four
needles
Structural requirement: same as a rib knitted
structure but has two interlocking rib knitted
structures
Technical requirement: needles moving on two
different needle planes, with the ability to select needles to act in two
independent groups on each needle plane (i.e. a four needle system in interlock
gaiting)
32.18.7. Half and full cardigan

The diagram (Figure 32.53) shows half cardigan with the tuck loops appearing in the
back bed squares. This diagram (Figure 32. 54) shows full cardigan.

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Figure 32.53. Half cardigan Figure 32.54 Full cardigan

32.19. Jacquard knitting
Both yarn path diagrams and technical pattern representations can be used for the
majority of knit structures that repeat over two-eight needles and two to twelve courses.
Jacquard patterns may repeat over several hundred needles and courses and the use of
the yarn path notation in this case is cumbersome. The use of graph paper notations is a
much more efficient way of recording a jacquard pattern.
32.19.1.Weft knitting quality control
This module will take the form of a wide ranging discussion of the issues of quality
control in weft knitting.
It will include a summary of the published academic and industry based research and a
discussion of the practical problems and solutions that are relevant to a modern
industrial scale manufacture.
Introduction
This module will take the form of a wide ranging discussion of the issues of quality
control in weft knitting.
It will include a summary of the published academic and industry based research, and a
discussion of the practical problems and solutions relevant to modern industrial scale
manufacturing
32.19.2. Quality
The quality of a knitted product is a complex concept. At one level, it means a holistic
assessment of a range of visible and invisible factors such as the cut' of the garment,
the lustre and softness of the yarn, the handle' of the knitwear, the fineness of the knit
structure, the excellence of the make-up, the quality of the design and the extent to
which the fabric shrinks or pills.
At another level, it is assessed in terms of strictly measurable parameters such as
course and wale density, loop length or stitch length, knitwear weight per square meter,
the percentage of add-ons (such as lubricants and finishes), faults per meter (such as
cuts and holes or knots and dirt-marks), and dimensional stability measurements etc.
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This module will not address the more subjective measures but will concentrate on the
measurable and thus controllable variables that provide the key to producing
consistently reproducible good quality knitted knitwear and the research based theories
that define the relationships between them

32.19.3. Quality control, the history
If we consider the situation that prevailed in the UK weft knitting industry just prior to and
post 1945, then we would find an industry that was expanding rapidly. Knitted goods had
become fashionable items of clothing in the 1930s, not just within women's wear but also
within tennis, cricket and cycling sportswear. They had also made inroads into the
growing leisurewear market. In addition, knitted jumpers and sweaters were to become
favoured items of combat uniform for the British military during the Second World War.
At that time, the weft knitting industry was divided into a number of sectors including:
Stocking and hose manufacture
Jersey knitwear manufacture (single and double jersey)
Fully fashioned (Cotton's Patent machines) garment manufacture (jumpers,
sweaters and underwear).
Circular garment length manufacture
V-bed garment length manufacture (jumpers and sweaters)
It was only in one sector - that of fully fashioned garment manufacture - that the problem
of quality control was adequately resolved: this was largely because of the way in which
the knitted loop was formed on the Cotton's Patent machine.
In the Cotton's Patent machine, the yarn is pulled into the knitting zone by the action of
the sinkers totally independently from the action of the needles in their function of loop
formation, and without the influence of takedown tension. The length of yarn associated
with each needle was determined by the geometry of the sinker penetration without any
yarn transfer from needle to needle (robbing back). The sinker penetration could be
accurately adjusted and, consequently, the loop length and course length could be
accurately controlled.
Further more, the absence of significant takedown traction meant that the fabric was
much closer to the relaxed condition (see the reference to Munden) than with most other
forms of weft knitting. As a direct consequence of these favourable circumstances the
fully fashioned industry had an enviable reputation for high quality and reproducibility.
The garments were accurately sized and did not shrink excessively in wear (see causes
of shrinkage).
In all the other sectors, quality control was a hit and miss affair, the problem being
particularly serious for the cut and sew knitwear sector and the jersey knitwear industry.

32.19.4. Quality control, the history

Discussions with knitting technicians instigated in the 1950s by researchers from HATRA
(Hosiery and Allied Trades Research Association) about the causes of variability
produced a list of many parameters that were considered to be responsible for changes
in quality. This list included:
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Air temperature in the plant
Temperature of the machine bed
Air humidity in the plant
Moisture content in the yarn
Wax content of the yarn
Color of the yarn
Cone angle
Diameter of the cone
Stitch cam position
Dial height
Needle timing
Sinker penetration
Sinker timing
Machine speed
Take-down tension
Stretcher board width
The extent and diversity of the parameters in this list convinced the researchers at
HATRA that a systematic empirical study was needed to narrow down the most
important variables.
The results of this research, published by Doyle in 1953 in the Journal of the Textile
Institute (JTI), suggested that the stitch density of a wide range of plain knitted woolen
twists was inversely proportional to the square of the loop length. This relationship
offered the prospect of developing simple systems to control knitwear quality.
Encouraged by these results, Munden continued with the work and in 1959, published
(JTI) a wide ranging empirical and theoretical analysis of the factors controlling the
course density, the wale density, the stitch density and the thickness of plain knit and
1x1 rib woolen twists.

This ground breaking research led to an outpouring of research into the geometry and
properties of weft knitted twists by researchers such as Knapton, Leaf and Postle - much
of it carried out at Leeds University under the supervision, or with the collaboration of,
Munden. The outcome of all this work was a conviction, both in the academic world and
in industry, that the key to controlling knitwear quality was the control of loop length and
this conviction led directly to the development of positive feed systems.

32.19.5. Early yarn feeding devices

Prior to 1939, the hosiery industry had developed feeding devices to reduce the tension
of the yarn as it was fed into the needles. These devices took the form of capstan
wheels, or loosely meshing gear wheels, driven by gearing from the main drive shaft.
In a typical example, the yarn was passed through the nip of a tapered wheel and a
conical wheel that acted as a variable speed drive system. The position of the yarn along
the axis of the tapered wheel was determined by the tension in the running yarn. If the
yarn tension increased, the yarn was moved towards the higher diameter end of the
tapered wheel thus causing it to be fed at a higher rate and vice versa.

These tension compensating drives reduced the number of holes and press-offs in the
hose by reducing the variations in feeder tension and, in that sense, they improved the
fabric quality. They did not, however, control loop length. In fact they did the opposite: by
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varying the feed rate they increased the variation in loop length. Unfortunately they also
led to the belief in the industry that the key to controlling quality was the control of yarn
tension at the feed point, an idea that has since proved extremely difficult to eradicate.

32.19.6. The HATRA course length tester

As part of its focus on knitted fabric quality HATRA manufactured and sold the HATRA
course length tester. This device (essentially a series of meter scales mounted on a back
board with guide pulleys to enable the yarn to be guided up and down the sides of the
scales) enabled a single course of yarn to be clamped, loaded and measured to an
accuracy of within plus or minus 2-3mm.

The course length tester became the standard quality instrument for the knitting
industry, as it was applicable to any and every knitted product. In order to test the course
length, a single course was un raveled from the knitwear or garment and mounted and
measured on the course length tester. The division of this length by the number of
needles knitting in the course provided the loop length. The course length tester
provided a method of quality measurement that was simple to use, accurate (provided
care was taken in the threading to remove all the crimp) and low cost. It was widely used
in the UK knitting industry and its use eventually extended into Europe.

Its disadvantages were the time taken to carry out the check, particularly for multi-feed
circular machines, where each course had to be un raveled and tested separately, and
the fact that it was quality measurement after the event: in other words the product had
already been produced. This latter problem was especially serious in the case of double
jersey factories where setting a machine using this method was a real chore and its use
in routine quality control often resulted in several rolls of fabric being knitted before a
fault was detected.

Despite these problems, the course length tester was widely used and a similar
approach using the HATRA crimp tester to measure the length of a set number of loops,
for example, 100 in a fine gauge single jersey is still used in laboratories to analyze
faults today.

32.19.7. The HATRA yarn speed meter

In order to facilitate the more rapid setting-up of rotating cylinder machines, for example,
hose machines or multi-feed jersey machines, HATRA developed the yarn speed meter.
This device, which caused the traveling yarn to drive a cork-lined pulley that rotated a
simple dynamo, allowed the yarn speed to be read off on an ammeter built into the body
of the tester. Although the instrument was relatively fragile and needed to be returned to
HATRA for regular calibration, it revolutionized the setting-up of multi-feed machines.
To be effective, the yarn speed meter needed to be used in conjunction with a running
yarn tension meter such as the Zivi tension meter. This was necessary because simply
measuring and controlling the yarn speed is not the same as measuring and controlling
the yarn length. The complicating factor is the fact that yarns stretch under tension and
especially in the case of false twist textured yarns, small changes in tension cause
significant changes in the degree of stretch.

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With the introduction of effective positive feed systems to the jersey industry it seemed
as if many of the quality control problems would be resolved. Unfortunately due to the
phenomenon of twists relaxation this was not the case, especially for twists containing a
significant proportion of natural fibre (cotton or wool).
Munden and Knapton had both demonstrated that knitted twists are distorted when they
are taken from the machine and that they change in width and length with time, simply
by leaving them on a smooth surface for example. This process was called relaxation.
In order to understand the relaxation process better, the following diagrams will help the
reader to visualize the process.

If we compare a plain woven knitwear with a plain knitted twists, we can see that when
a woven knitwear is subjected to axial stress in either the warp or weft directions the
initial strain of perhaps two to five per cent is derived from crimp interchange before the
yarns start to load, resulting in largely elastic yarn strain and the development of a
recovery force that would tend to bring the knitwear back close to its original dimensions.
In contrast, if we apply an axial force to a plain knitted twists (see the diagram) then
much of the strain derives from changes in the bending radii at the feet and head of the
loops.
The diagram shows forces being applied along the wales or length axis of the
knitwear. The result of this stress is shown in the diagram below.
This diagram shows that that the radii of curvature at the head and feet of the loops
after length axis deformation are now much tighter and there has also been a transfer of
yarn from the head and feet of the loop into the legs of the loop, resulting in further
lengthwise strain.

In the case of plain knit twists, this mode of stretch may yield strains of 30 to 40 per
cent in the width axis and 15 to 20 per cent in the length axis. It is only when the
knitwear is jammed' in the condition shown above, that significant strain starts to occur
in the yarns leading to an elastic deformation of the fibers. When the stress is removed,
the elastic strain in the yarns and some of the bending and torsion strain in the head
and feet of the loops are recovered but some of the bending and torsion strain and
some of the yarn interchange remains trapped by the frictional forces at the contact
points between the loops. This trapped strain results in a hysteresis in the recovery
process or trapped deformation that will ultimately be recovered when the fabric is
subjected to the conditions described below or, more commonly, the processes of
domestic laundry

32.20. Knitwear relaxation

Munden showed that with wool twists, relaxation could be accelerated by soaking the
knitwear in water and he suggested two stable' conditions, the dry relaxed and wet
relaxed states. Knapton demonstrated that these processes did not remove all the
potential relaxation and he proposed wetting followed by tumble drying for a minimum of
30 minutes at 60 degrees centigrade as a means of reaching a fully relaxed' state.

Both researchers showed that for simple knitted twists, such as plain knit, 1x1 and 2x2
ribs, the course density, wale density and thus stitch density were generally independent
of machine variables (gauge, dial height, needle timing, etc.) only in the relaxed state. In
all other states, the machine variables had a significant influence over the knitwear
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variables and the closer the knitwear was to the machine state, the greater the effect of
the machine variables would be.

This process of relaxation shrinkage is illustrated in the short animation. The
animation starts with the loops extended in the length axis as they would be on the
knitting machine under the influence of take-down tension. As the animation proceeds
the loops move through the dry' and wet' relaxation configuration and eventually reach
the stable fully relaxed' state.

32.20.1. Relaxation animation
32.20.2. Knitwear relaxation

To make matters worse the processes that were applied to the rolls of knitwear after
knitting mostly tended to distort the knitwear further from the fully relaxed state by
applying axial tension and superimposing another set of controlling variables. In short,
the knitwear was never sold and shipped to the maker-up in the fully relaxed state and
thus its course and wale densities (as well as stitch densities, weight per square meter
and width) were not dependant on loop length alone but a number of other machine and
processing variables. More seriously, the problem did not end with the maker-up
because the garments then contained knitwear that was not in a fully relaxed state and
the processes of garment cleaning (involving dry cleaning or washing) caused the
knitwear to move towards the fully relaxed state with the result that the garment changed
size after purchase and use.
At this stage in the development of the jersey industry, the majority of double jersey
twists destined for tailoring into outerwear were manufactured from synthetic yarns, false
twist textured polyester or cotton spun acrylic. In order to resolve the problem of
relaxation, the process of heat setting on a pin stenter was introduced. When synthetic
yarns are heated above the second order transition temperature, the polymer softens
and any stored strains dissipate. In this way, the stored torsion and bending energy that
causes relaxation to occur are eliminated. Heat setting does, therefore, provide a
solution to the problem of knitwear relaxation for 100 per cent synthetic twists, provided
the knitwear can be heat-set at a specified course and wale density and overall width.
The combination of:
Positive feeding
A knitting machine where the initial machine settings have been carefully
controlled (see module on circular knitting quality control)
The use of tensionless examination tables
The use of low tension jet dying machines
Very careful control of stenter variables (pin width, overfeed, oven temperature
and speed)
enables knitwear to be manufactured to tight specifications free from relaxation potential.
Such high quality, high performance synthetic twists have now become well established
in the sportswear and extreme wear sectors, where their properties of controlled stretch,
breath-ability, wicking, and durability offer comfort, high performance and long life to the
users.
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32.20.3. Quality control for cotton and wool knitwears

Although cotton and wool twists cannot be heat-set, the majority of the single and double
jersey twists were initially used in underwear where knitwear relaxation presents less of
a problem once the garment has been manufactured. However for the garment maker,
the issues of width and weight per square meter control have presented an on going
problem over many years. In particular, the knitwear being presented to the cutting table
could routinely vary in width by as much as +/- 5cm from one roll to the next and
occasionally by much more. Such levels of variation compromised the efficiency of the
lay-maker's cutting plan by increasing the edge waste to unacceptable levels.

The problem of knitwear relaxation became an issue for retailers such as Marks and
Spencer when cotton and wool twists started to be used in outerwear and this problem
limited their acceptability.

32.20.4. Starfish and cotton jersey
In order to address this issue and foster the increased up-take of cotton jersey the
International Institute for Cotton, Didsbury, Manchester instituted a programmer of
research and development that was called Starfish. Led by Alan Heap and Jill Stevens,
the research team set out to establish the knit wears geometry constants (see Munden
for an explanation of knitwear geometry constants) for a wide range of cotton jersey
knitwear finished through a number of different commercial finishing routes.
The aim was to use a range of different cotton yarns (singles ring spun, doubles ring
spun, singles open spun, etc.) to knit commercial structures on a range of gauges and
machine diameters to a range of cover factors (see Knapton for an explanation of cover
factor) that encompassed the range of knitwear qualities normally sold.

At least 100 meters of each knitwear quality were knitted and finished through each of
four or five different commercial finishing routes. The finished twists were then subject to
intensive testing for quality (loop length, course and wale density, thickness and weight
per square meter) following a range of different relaxation treatments. The results were
entered into a table database and also correlated with loop length via a range of different
polynomial equations to determine the best fit equation. This relationship was then used
in conjunction with the database to enable the interpolation of values that lie in between
the observed data points or outside the experimental range.
This extensive programmer of research was successful in that it enabled knitters to
predict the quality of a particular structure processed via a range of finishing routes and
then select which combination of knitwear structure, knitwear quality and finishing best
suited the customer's requirement.

One of the greatest advantages of the model lies in the fact that it could prevent sales
staff accepting orders for knitwear specifications that simply could not be delivered in a
stable condition: in other words, twists at a width or weight per square meter that could
only be achieved by stretching or compressing into a condition that would yield excess
levels of relaxation. The drawback of the model lay in the fact that it could only make
accurate predictions for yarn and structures that had been researched and each time a
new variant of yarn or structure or finishing route was adopted then new research was
necessary to extend the database.
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32.20.5. Woolen knitwear and felting shrinkage

With woolen twists and twistrs made from other animal hairs such as camel, cashmere
and particularly angora, the problem of felting and felting shrinkage complicates the
process of producing garments of the correct size.
Felting occurs when animal fibers are subjected to rubbing and abrasion in a hot wet
state. The individual hairs migrate under the influence of the rubbing and are unable to
return to their original position because of the direction frictional effect of the scales on
their surface. In this way they become more and more entangled with the result that
yarns in the knitwear structure tend to become shorter. In effect with a knitted structure,
felting causes the loop length to progressively reduce with the result that the course and
wale densities increase and the garments become shorter and narrower and increase in
thickness. This process of felting shrinkage can occur at the same time as relaxation
shrinkage for example if inappropriate finishing conditions (scouring or dyeing) are used.
It can also be used to good effect in fulling when garments are knitted to a very slack
quality (long loop length) and then felted or fulled to produce a warm soft garment of the
correct size. The following animation illustrates the kind of changes that occur as a
woolen knitwear progressively felts.
32.21. Felting animation
32.21.1. Capstan yarn feeds



Figure 32.55. Capstan yarn feeder Figure 32.56. Drive belt and pulley




Figure 32.57. Punched tape and variable diameter pulley

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In order to elimination some of the problems associated with the IRO tape feeder, IRO
and later other manufacturers introduced capstan feed devices, where the capstan was
driven by a non-slip pin wheel or toothed pulley via a punched or toothed drive belt. The
yarn was caused to wrap several times around the capstan thus eliminating yarn slip.
Because the yarn no longer made contact with the drive belt, the difficulty of yarns
sticking to the belt and being carried round the machine was eliminated. The figure
32.55 shows such a feeder.
The system shown above has a punched belt driven by a variable diameter pulley
connected to the main drive shaft. The variable diameter pulley was not always easy to
adjust to a specific yarn feed rate as adjustment had to be made on a trial and error
basis followed by speed measurement and readjustment or correction. The figure 32.56
shows a schematic of the drive belt and pulley.
The figure 32.57 shows a picture of the drive belt and pulley
This problem led to research at UMIST supervised by Dr Tilak Dias that resulted in the
development of the digital drive.

32.21.2. Digital drive positive feed



Figure 32.58. Digital drive positive feed Figure 32.59. Digital drive positive feed

In order to eliminate the often time consuming adjustment of the variable diameter
pulley, the pulley was replaced by a digitally controlled servo motor that could be
accurately adjusted to a pre-set speed by a digital drive system. This digital drive
positive feed proved to be extremely accurate and reproducible. The concept was
demonstrated to an industry partner in 1988 and published in 2000 (Mechatronic 2000,
September 2000).
The figure 32.58 shows the UMIST research prototype.
The figure below 32.59 shows a commercial version of the UMIST digital positive drive
seen at the ITMA exhibition in 2003 with the bank of digitally driven servo-motors in the
middle of the picture.

32.21.3. Storage feeders and jacquard knitting

Jacquard knitting involves the use of needle selection to place colored loops into the
face of the knitwear in a particular sequence that causes the pattern to develop. The
figure below shows a typical jacquard structure (Figure 32.60).

The nature of the needle selection causes the yarn feed rate to vary continually from a
relatively low level when the yarn is knitting on alternate needles on the dial, to a
relatively high rate when the yarn is knitting on both the cylinder and dial. It is not
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possible for a constant speed positive feed to deliver yarn in this way and, consequently,
tape feed systems could not be used on jacquard machines.
In order to resolve this problem, the engineers at IRO devised a storage feed with its
own integral synchronous motor that in effect pulled the yarn from the package in the
creel to rewind it at low tension in an ideal single helix on a conical capstan wheel
situated above the knitting feeder. The figure shows an image of an IRO storage feed.


Figure 32.60. Jacquard structure

The IRO storage feeder was a commercial success
as it greatly reduced the knitting faults resulting from
variations in feeder tension. However it is not a positive
feed system and it does not provide a close control of
loop length. The knitwear quality therefore depends on
a range of machine and yarn variables and great care must be taken with the initial
machine set-up (see module on circular knitting quality control).

The IRO storage feeder was a commercial success as it greatly reduced the knitting
faults resulting from variations in feeder tension. However it is not a positive feed system
and it does not provide a close control of loop length. The knitwear quality therefore
depends on a range of machine and yarn variables and great care must be taken with
the initial machine set-up (see module on circular knitting quality control).

32.21.4. Combination storage and positive feed
In order to satisfy the requirements of jersey machines that are capable of knitting plain
and jacquard twists, Memminger have brought out a tape driven combination feed that
can act as either a positive feed capstan or as a storage capstan. The figure below
shows the image of such a feed.
32.21.5. Loop length control on Flat knitting machines

Similarly to the problem of yarn feeding in jacquard knitting, the yarn feed rate on a Flat
knitting machine is constantly changing, even when the machine is knitting plain fabric.
This is due to the reciprocation of the cam systems in the carriage and the fact that the
carriage accelerates and decelerates at the beginning and end of each stroke
respectively. Superimposed on the variation due to the reciprocation is a second
variation due to the needle selection, which may cause changes in the fabric structure or
pattern, or cause the width of the fabric to change as well.

Until very recently this continual variation in yarn demand has made positive feeding
impossible (until the introduction of the True Positive Feed developed by Dr Dias et al,
that will be the subject of a separate module) with the result that machine builders and
feeder manufacturers have developed various forms of assisted feed system that help
the yarn on its way to the needles in an attempt to limit fluctuations in yarn tension at the
feeder.

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The IRO storage feeder has been successfully used for this purpose and more
modern versions specifically designed for the V-bed (bearing needle) have been
developed by IRO- Memminger. The diagram below shows such a feeder.
Alternatively many machine builders equip their machines with assisted feed devices
that consist of driven rollers with tension compensators that help the yarn on its way to
the feeder. None of these devices control the loop length or eliminate the changes in
quality that may occur due to changes in yarn properties such as lubrication, color, twist,
extensibility, etc.
The machine builder Shimano Seiki adopted a different strategy with the introduction
of the Digital Stitch Control System known as the DSCS system. This device places a
lightweight yarn length measuring wheel in the yarn path and compares the actual yarn
consumption with the theoretical yarn consumption derived from the CAD/CAM pattern
data for the garment.

The system then uses the digitally positioned stitch cam to displace the stitch cam in
order to modify the loop length and thus compensate for the difference between the
actual and the theoretical consumptions. Again, this device does not positively feed the
yarn and it cannot be considered a positive feed system, although it does seem to
reduce variations in garment dimensions.

References
Doyle, P. J., Fundamental Aspects of the Design of Knitted Fabrics, J. Textile Inst. 44(8),
561-578 (1953).
Munden, D. L., The Geometry and Dimensional Properties of Plain-Knit Fabric, J. Textile
Inst. 50, T448-471 (1959).
Knapton,. J. J. F. and. Munden,. D. L.,. Textile Res. J. 36,. 1081-1091. (1966)
Dias, T., The Digital Positive Drive, Mechatronic 2000, September 2000).

32.22. The mechanism to add the yarns
single cylinder sock machines
32.22.1. General of the mechanism

The mechanism is intended to add yarn to ensure the continuous addition to the
projected length of yarn in the knitting system. The machine "Mono-4"Italy apply passive
add yarn, yarn when the coil unwinds by spending much of her knitting authorities.

In addition the mechanism includes: yarn guides, designed to add knitting yarn in the
system, controllers yarn, yarn that control state (suspension, tension, the descent from
the coil); belt yarn, yarn tension compensator; ceramic eyelets and rack for spools.

In figure 32.61 shows the principal scheme of introduction of the yarn. Coil (2) is set
to spool holder (1). Yarn through the routers (3, 4 and 5), plated brake (6), move the cont
roller (7), routers (8 and 9) and yarn guides (10) is added to the needles. Routers pass (3
and 4) may be in the form of tubes.

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Figure 32.28. Schematic cross the introduction of a mechanism to add

32.22.2. Electronic needle selection mechanism

To obtain a sampled Interlacement and the desired shape of the product machine is set
up a mechanism of electronic needle selection.
Principal scheme of choice of needles is shown in figure 32.62. Below each needle
(1) set the selector (2) the foot of choice (3). Before coming to choosing a system
selector (2) is lifted from the cylinder so that his work rate (4) fall to the part locks lifting
(5).
The choice of needles performs an element of choice, which interacts in the selector
(2). If the element of choice in the upper position (as shown in figure 32.63, a), then he
will not act on the foot of choice (3) coach (2), working foot (4) fall to the part locks
lifting (5), and (2 ) with drawing the needle (1) in working position. If the element of
choice came down to a lower position (Figure 32.63, b), that he, acting on the
foot (3),drag the selector (2) in a channel bearing cylinder. Working foot (4) passing
the locks of the lifting (5), the selector does not raise the needle in further system it will
not knit.

32.22.3. The process of knitting socks

During the first revolution of the cylinder in the first steam system selectors, the
selected electromagnetic elements of choice, raise the edge of locks to raise (1)
(Figure 32.64) and introduce the needle at the level of steam passages (fully closed) to
open tabs needles. Part 14 includes the lock and lowered the needle into the selected
release level (partial closure). The working parts of locks in the image are shown as
black lines. At this level, the needle going in the other system, which includes part of the
locks for the descent (11) and the first guide Yarn, elastomeric thread to start (1)
(Figure 32.65,a) the steam needle. Lowering the selector is performed with the lock part
(33). Other systems do not work.

In the second revolution of the cylinder in the first system is selected odd needles on
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them and realized knitting revolution analogous to the first cylinder (Figure 32.65, b),
which allows for forming loops on all needles, yarn since (2) separating the needle,
passing between them.



Figure 32.62. The device and control Figure 32.63. Principal scheme of choice of
needles yarn tension


Thus, during the second revolution comes cylinder laying yarn for sewing on the side
hooks. For this part includes locks (1) panel (Figure 32.66, a), side hooks are rising from
the board? H (disk) and distributed among the selected needles in the third system for
taking stitched yarn (Figure 32.66, b).

Raising the needle on the gateway (full closure) in the third system follows an odd
selectors, lifting the lock part (2) (Figure 32.67). Laying stitched yarn yarn guide is
achieved (5) of the third system. Then bending (weft) of the locks (2) down hill Needles,
creating a row loops (3), whose platinum arcs lie on the lateral hooks (Figure 32.67).
Selectors dropping lock (34).

In the third revolution of the cylinder first system does not work. In the other system
selectors choose steam, which, rising in a session locks (4) (Figure 32.68), per formed a
needle to release the steam (incomplete closure),and they cover elastomeric yarn (thre
ad) of the first yarn guide. Including parts of locks for the descent (w3fti9ng) of the
first and third systems, as well as any part of the lock, closer to the cylinder,resulting in
two stages. In the passage of ledge cylinder with needles, which have low foot weft of
locks down to the half. Further, when the lock part weft passing feet high and medium-
sized needles, it comes complete.

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Figure 32.64. Foot path of movement of the needles and knitting in the coach
first and second order socks



Figure 32.65. Schema creation Figure 32.66. Working lock plate (disk)
Initial lines laying stitched Yarn

In the fourth revolution of the cylinder started knitting socks in footer edge of interlacing.
The first system includes the guides 2 and 4 yarn and knit the rows of loops, while the
other system is taken footer elastomeric thread. In the first system, all the pins are
running on the passage (full closure) selectors in a session locks (1) (Figure 32.68). Part
of the locks (14) stays on. Inclusion of locks (10) the first system comes in two stages.
The second system is also, as during the third revolution.
When knitting pattern at work laying sampled cross borders, there may be a deformation
of the edge, and the entire product. To avoid this error after a tangle of products and
passing the yarn stitched on the hook plate in the paper includes a special section locks
(2) (Figure 32.69,a) moving the hooks to the center cylinder machines. Before the stitch
ed edges of the paper includes part of the lock (3) (Figure 32.69, b), which reintroduces
the hooks on the path edge stitched edges.

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Figure 32.67. Laying stitched Yarn Figure 32.68. The path of movement of the needles
and feet selectors laying stitched yarn

When knitting socks in long smooth plating, with a sample from the extra plating, the
first system appears as the principal, who interlacement the basic primary color of the
product lines.

The second, third and fourth will be repeated as a system sampled, and taking them
to.
Include colored yarn yarn guides are sampled. Depending on the number of colors in
each system can use a few sampled yarn guides.



Figure 32.69. Foot Path movement Figure 32.70. The path of movement hooks
and coach at work knitting edge needles at the edge part of the sample
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32.23. Two-cylinder machine, "Dera 5 WJ"
32.23.1. General of the slot devices

Automat for socks "Dera 5 WJ" production company Uniplet is intended to produce mens
and women's stockings classic way. Automatic is equipped with two systems with electro
nic control. To drive the machine is applied to servo motor that provides the machine at
the roundabout and walk semi-circular needle cylinder. So ventilating motor allows regul
ation, needle cylinder rotation frequency in the range of zero to a maximum size,
ensuring accurate positioning of the needle channel and synchronization of work with
a mechanism for selection of needles, which has control of a microprocessor. The
machine is set to tighten the tire in the process of semi-finished knitting and transport
his goods by the end of the bed knitting. The program for the machine is prepared on a
personal computer and then submitted to a machine with a standard diskette or gear.
Programming and mediation in the process of knitting is possible to achieve the control
panel, mounted directly on the machine.
The general form of automata knitting Dera 5WJ shown in figure 32.71, the electronic
control system in figure 32.72., Needle selection mechanism of the electronic image
32.73., Head of needles movement in the choice of needles in figure 32.74.


Figure 32.72. The general appearance Figure 32.73. The general appearance of the
of automata Dera 5WJ mechanism electronic needle selection

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Figure 32.74. Movement leaders in the selection of needles needles

In figure 32.75 shows the movements of leaders needles (sunroof platinum) at the turn of
needles from the lower to the upper cylinder. Figure 32 76 rd shows the needle head
at the turn of needles from the upper to the lower cylinder.

In figure 32.77. shows the window of the scheduled mid-A8D Uniplet. In Figure 32.78 the
main window provides an environment of choice programmed A8D. Figure 32.79 gives a
a list of programs scheduled for mid-management A8D machine.Panel revised the progr-
am management environment A8D programmed machine shown in figure 32.80.
Figure 32.81 shows the revised function "select L / L".

Figure 32.82 shows a window mid-BEAM-programmed. Window distribution pattern pro
grammed environment A8D given in figure 32.50. Figure 32.51 shows the distribution of
the sample window A8D-programmed environment (Jacquard sample).






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Figure32.75. Moving the needle head Figure 32.76.Moving the needle head
transition from the lower needle cylinder transition needles from the upper to the
in the upper lower cylinder


Figure 32.77. Window programmed environment A8D
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Figure 32.78. The window of the main election scheduled mid-A8D



Figure 32.79. List of scheduled mid-A8D Management machine
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Figure 32.80. Window redacted machine control program
programmed environment



Figure 32.81. Redacted function "select L / L

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Figure 32.82. Window programmed environment GREAD



Figure 32.83. Window distribution pattern programmed environment A8D

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Figure 32.84. Window distribution pattern programmed environment
A8D (Jacquard sample)

32.23.2. Electronic needle selection mechanism

To obtain a sampled Interlacement the machine is set up a mechanism of electronic
needle selection (Figure 32.85). Under each set of needles is head coach (1) were
sampled with a foot (2). The bottom of the selector with the working foot (3) rises from
cylinder channels so that his work falls on the foot of the locks to raise (4) (lifter needles),
needle selection element of running an election or selection (5), which acts on the foot
( 2) coach. If the element of choice in the up position (Figure 32.85, a), it will not work on
foot (2) coach (1), and foot job (3) fall to the part locks lifting (4). If the element of choice
(5) down to the lower position (Figure 32.85,b), that he, acting on the foot (2), retract
selector (1) the channel cylinder and foot job (3) passing the locks of the
lifting (4). Selector (1) remains in the lower position, the head of needles does not raise
the needle on the release, and it will not be in the operating position. To turn off the
needles from the work of the coach we have to cancel the selection of foot (6), which act
independently of the leading sunroof mechanism of choice or selection of needles.
Feet (2) a selector channels are arranged in the cylinder on the diagonal and thanks
for including the selection of locks from one position to another we have time for that
cylinder goes the distance, just 12 steps or needle sharing. Since the time of selection
elements including significantly less, such a constructive solution to allow the machine
speed is reduced even more complex when knitting themselves Interlacement sampled.

Selection element (5) are controlled by an electromagnet (7) with two coils. When
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adding a pulse on the coil element selection is lowered down, and adding the second-
lifted upward.

32.23.3. Transfer needles from one cylinder to another

To transfer needle from the lower to the upper cylinder is shown in figure 32.86.
Directing parts of locks leading manager of needles from the lower cylinder in position A,
when the upper hooks of needles falling into the upper cylinder. Part of the locks (6)
Head down the upper needle cylinder in the lower end position, the hook needle acting
head of the upper hook pins and starts running from the cylinder channel.
In position B the last foot of the upper needle cylinder head retracts pusher part locks
(5), needles and hooks leader pulls out of channels in the cylinder end position. The
upper head needle remains in the same position (Figure 32.86,C). Lower head of the
needle rises to the level of locks (6) of the lower cylinder selected selector (7). Part of the
locks (8) raises the head of the lower needle cylinder in the upper end position (Figure
32.86,R), and the upper hook needle is placed at the head of the upper hooks of
needles. Under the action of pressure of locks (4) on the back foot lower head pins from
surgery performed with a needle (Figure 32.86, E). Head of the upper needle cylinder
under the influence of pressure of locks (3) is drawn into the cylinder channel and into
the action with the stylus.
Discharge partially locks (2) the lower cylinder head needle retracts into the channel
and the cylinder begins to move downward under the action locks (9) (Figure 32.86,
F).The needle remains in the top cylinder.
To transfer needle from the upper to the lower cylinder (Figure 32.87) flows from the
lower analog way to the upper cylinder



Figure 32.85. Scheme of the mechanism of needles

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Figure 32.86.The transfer needle from Figure 32.87. The transfer needle from
the top lower to the upper cylinder the top cylinder in the lower

33.Technical textiles
Production of technical textiles in warp knitting is developing very quickly in the textile
industry in order to replace costly knitted structure, the more difficult or technically
inferior constr uction of traditional productsfrom other materials. To achieve this
goal structures and production methods must be carefully designed.
Warp knitting, or knitting of the warp is by far one the most versatile system in the
textile fabrics manufactured industry. Knitwear Warp can be produced as flexible or
stable structure with open and closed loop or in open and closed cross-warp laying
foundations.
Knitwear can produce a flat surface in the form, semi-circular (tubular) or three
dimensional. Knitwear can be paid with a working width of over 6 meters, or even
more depending on the width of the machine working.
A new concept of engineering knitting during their evolution, technical textiles, as a
natural deve lopment had several attempts and incorrectmethods commercially fabric
and are available in many cases meet the specifications set by manufacturers and
designers.
Engineers are invited to make a completely new structure with the characteristics
of twists, but on condition to keep the economy andreduce costs.
In short we are familiar with the basics and benefits of woven technology that we have of
A
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it through basic structural configurations that are at our disposal.
This technique dates back a few centuries, and today consumers are largely in error
when they should opt for a knitted or woven product, because the mechanical properties
of twists like woven warp, oreven better for certain applications.

In the figure 33.1 is shown in a woven structure (a), flat-woven smooth structure (right-
left), which can be knit as a circular to circular knitting machines (b), based in a closed
knit structure laying on the left side(Tricot) (c) and a bi-axial structure (d).

33.1.Technical conditions-parameters warp
knitted structures

A warp- knitted loop;
A stitch course-a horizontal row of loops produced during one knitting cycle;
A wale-a vertical row of loops produced by single needle;
An underlap-a straight length of yarn connecting the loops produced during
consecutive knitting cycles;
Left side (technical back)-the knitwear side illustrated. The underlap is on the
surface;
Pight side (technical face)- the knitwear side with the loops showing on the
surface.
In figure 33.2. given the basic construction on Raschel knitting machines.

The basic construction of a warp knitting machine (Figure 33.2) is similar to that of a
weaving machine, especially in the yarn supply system from warp beams (1) and the
knitwear batching via the take-up (3), The knitwear is produced, however, by
intermeshing loops in the knitting elements (2) rather than interlacing warps and wefts as
in a weaving machine.

33.2. The knitwear producing elements of a warp
knitting machine

The basic elements of working on knitting machines(Figure 33.3) include:

1- Compound needle; The needles are assembled in rigid needle bar and move
simultaneously;
2- Slide (closing element); The elements to close the needle hooks are placed in a
rigid bar and operate simultaneously,
3- Klock-over bar;
4- Holding-down sinker; The sinkers are assembled in a rigid sinker bar and act
simultaneously;
5- Yarn end- The yarn ends are usually fed off a warp beam;
6- Yarn guides- The yarn guides-also called guide needles-are also simultaneously
operated. One or several yarn guides are assigned to each needle.



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Figure 33.1. Konventional textile struktures

Figure 33.2.The basic construction of warp knitting machines
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Figure 33.3. The knitwear producing elements of a warp
Knitting machine

33.2.1. The process of creating loops on the Raschel machine

The process of creating loops on the Raschel machine (Figure 33.4.), we already wrote
about it in more detail.
a) the needles are in the bottom lowest position after the creation of loops.
Platinum needles are placed between keeping half loop;
b) the needle is raised to highest position, the needlehooks were opened, platinum half
loop to keep the body needles;
c) Yarn guides (guides lege rails) to swing the needleto the needle hooks;
d) guides the yarn draw-back side of the needle,platinum begin with drawing the
e) pins down.Fasteners-hook needles needles close peaks. The head of needles are
newly created half loop,
f)needle down to the lowest position, prior to transferhalf loop over the head of needles
and runs throughhalf loop created earlier.


a) b) c) d) e) f)

Figure 33.4 The process of creating loops on the machine Raschel


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33.3.Stitch- bonding as a special case of
warp knitting technique

The retaining pins, together with the supporting rail, prevent the web motion during
needle penetration. The mechanism to remove the already formed stitches, which is
placed on the opposite sicle, permits to strike the sitches while the web is being
transported backwants. The distance between the support pins and this mechanism can
be adjusted to web thickness depending on the raising of the needle system.

Stitch-bomding is considered to be a special case of warp knitting technique while the
loop formation cycle is similar to that of warp knitting important diferences are as follows
(Figure 33.5):

Constructive design of stitch-bonding area (e.g. horizontal needle arrangement,
fixed retaining, backing rail);
Needle types applied ( Stitching- needle);
Conversion of unbonded fibrous webs to purely mechanically stitch-bonded
nonwomens to 100% from fibres.

Figure 33.5. Stitch-bonding as a special case of warp knitting technique
1- Stitching needle; 2-Closing wirw; 3- Guide needle 1st guide bar; 4- Guide needle 2nd
guide bar;5- knocking- over sinker; 6- Sacking rail: 7- Warp guide needle.


33.3.1. Mechanical bonding
Stitchbonding or needlebonding
Stitchbonding is a hybrid technology, which uses elements
of various techologies, from nonwovens to sewing and
knitting techniques.
Different technologies reflect on the structure of the nonwo
ven.


Stitchbonding knitwear have been defined as twists in which the fibers and the yarns, or
the fibres and a basis knitwear, are bound together by subsequent atitching with
additional yarns. Different stitchbonding systems have been developed and applied on
industrial scale since the middle of last centry. The market leaders are the machine
types Ara (Czech. Rep.), Mali and Liba (Germany), A Ch V-Sh VP (Russia). Inside each
of these machinery families, a modular concept has been developed and used, to obtain
a veriety of combinations of products, which can be processed using different types of
needles and needle board, with the possibility of using various substrates or substrate
combinations.

A wide range of materials, especially for use in apparel, home textiles and technical
items, is today in industrial production through stitchbonding. The characeristics of the
final product can be modified and improved by modifuing the different combinations of
substrates with the use of raw or pre- formed materials. Which have to be joined
together by stitchbonding.

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33.4. Maliwatt stitchbonding system

The Maliwatt system consists of following components:

Stitchbonding unit with a control system for the working elements;
Web feeding system;
Yarn feeding and monitoring systems;
Winding and storage system for the stitchbonding twists;
Cutting unit with a control system for the machine.

The horizontal needle structure and the bonding system of the yarn, which operates
jointly wth the mechanism to remove aready formed stitches in order to make room for
those to be formed, and the support guide, penetrate through the substrate which ia a
wb placed crosswise to the machine. The stitching yarn is threaded through the guides
into the open needle hooks and forms the stitches, which penetrate the web. Pillar and
tricot stitches can be produced by a cam shogging at the same time the fibres inside the
stitches and prevent the withdrawal of the stitches from the extremity of last formed
stitch. With tricot interlacement, a yarn system parallel to warp can be arranged inside
the web and later on incorporated into the stitchbonding knitwear (figure 33.6).

Figure 33.6. Structure of a
Maliwatt knitwear
33.5.Malivlies
stitchbonding system

Stitch bonded knitwear (Figure
33.7) are nonwovens
composed to 100% of non-
spun fibres stitched only on
one side. All types of fibres and
fibre blends suited for carding may be used. The high running speeds of the machines,
as well as the high working width, permit an enormous production of nonwovens.
The web laying-in sinker (platinum) prevents web motions during the penetration
process. AS soon as the needle system shifts back to the knocking-over position, the
fibres which are in the front of the web hang on the hooks of the needles, are brought to
the inside the hook of the closing wire and drawn through the thickness of the web.

As soon as these fibres are drawn through the stitches formed by the fibres on the
preceding course, while they are still hanging at the needle hooks, new stitches are
formed through the existing stitches, which are skipped by the closed hooks of the
needles.

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Figure 33.7. Main knitting elements of a Malivlies stitch bonding machine

33.5.1. Structure of a Malivlies knitwear
In the figure 33.8 data is a structure of knitwear Malivlies.

A circular structure, which reminds the technical side of a warp- stitched knitwear, is
produced along the laterla sides of the knocking-over sinkers (platinum). The laying-in
sinker is dragged backwards to a position facing the supporting rail and permits the
fibres to be firmly blocked by the needle system, thanks to wb heaping.

The tecnical specifications of the Malivlies machines are the same as those of
Maliwatt machines.




Figure 33.8. A structure of knitwear Malivlies


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33.5.2. Stitching action of a Malivlies machine
In the figure 33.9 given a pattern knitting machine elements Malivlies.

The Malivlies knitwear composed entirely of fibres are mechanically reclaimable. The
main types of fibre in use are polyester, poypropylene, viskose, and reciamed fibres and
the produced twists have an areal mass ranging from 120 to 1200 gr cm
-2
. The main
applications are car interior covers, felts for textile coverings, absorbents, polishing clots,
geotextilles, products for medical, hygiene and use, carpet hackings.


Figure 33.9. Knitting elements Malivlie machine in action

33.6. Malimo stitchbonding system

In Figure 33.9 give the basic elements Malivlies working machine.
The Malimo stitchbonding system started production towards end of the 40

s thanks to
Heinrich Mauersberger in Eastern Germany. Owing to the poor aesthetic value, this type
of materials had only limited success in the States and in Western Europe.

The figure 33.10 ilustrates the relative position of a Malimo stitchbonding unit. The
needle system -1, penetrates the yarn layers (in weft and in warp), the webs, the suppot
twists, the films, the paper and any other layer of material, which can be introduced. The
previously formed stitches let the stitched material slide, while closing the stitches.

The nedle 4. the hooks of the needle system with the new overlaid stitched yarns are
now closed by the closing yarn so that old stitched can slide over the top of the needles.
The old stitches are clinched over the lop of the needles and new loops are drawn
through the stitches to complete the new course. Moreover, the guides jolt to place the
stitching yarns in the correct position for the subsequent machine cycle, which
corresponds to a new course. This laterla motion of the guide cloth on needle side is
called underlap movement.

Besed on Malimo system, different versions were developed, as welf as auxiliary
equipment to permit the produstion of particular textile structures, above all for the
production of tecnical textiles.
These developments permitted to obtain:
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1. insertion with crossed weft;
2. insertion with discontinuous parallel weft;
3. multi-axial structure;
4. manufacture of twists in glass fibre.




Figure 33.10. Elements of knitting machine Malimo

33.7. Malipol stitchbonding system
In the figure 33.11 presented a system with knitting elements Malipol.

The needles penetrate the knitwear gorund, and the stitching yarn is inserted into the
needle hook. The loop yarn is placed over the knock-over sinker(platinum) at the same
time, so that a tricot racking, for instance 1-0/1-2, is used to create the pile and to stitch
the yarn within the basic structure. The machine is available in thegauges 10, 12 ad 14
(number of needles/25 mm), with pile sinker height between 1 and 11 mm and stitch
lengths between 1 and 3 mm, obtainable through gear controls. The machine speed
ranges from 900 to 1300 stitches per minute.

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Figure 33.11. Malipol with knitting elements

The choice of the feeding system is set by quality and characteristics of the product.
Any substrate, which can be passed through by needles, can be used as ground
knitwear, on condition that it remains undamaged. Concerning weves, sateens and twills
are the most suitable, although also flat, not very compact but wavy knitwear, are
compatible with this kind of process..The alternatives are the stitchbonded knitwears ,
latex, knits and films.

Cotton or viscose twists ranging from 100 to 200 gr m
-2
are the most common
materials for blankets and waddings, whereas twists made of polyester and polyamide
continuous filament weighing between 50 and 200 gr m
-2
are to be preferred for the
production of plush and imitations fur. The main application of Malipol knitwears are
blankets- raised on one or both sides, beach- and swimwear, casual wear, bath sets,
plush and imitation leather.

33.8. Voltex stitchbonding system
Voltex knitwear (Figure 33.12) are high-pile twists or plush knitwears based on two pre-
formed main elements., ia ground knitwear and a web. No preparation for stitching
yarns, as cone-winding or warping, is required.
The main elements of a Voltex machine are indicated in the following figure.

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Figure 33.12. Voltex sistem

A continuous Voltex system consists of a web formation line coupled with a
stitchbonding unit. The typical working width ranges from 1700 to 25000 mm, while
available gauges are 7, 10, 12 and 14 (needle number /25 mm). The height of the pile
sinker ranges from 1 to 23 mm and stitch lengths from 0.55 to 5.0 mm. The machine
speed depends on the stitch length, on the pile sinker height and on the speed of the
web formation line and is variable from 500 to 1500 rpm.
Voltex knitwear found application in lining knitwear, fur imitations, plush, shoc linings,
wall- coverings and carpets.

33.9. Basic constructions
Elastic structures
Figure 33.13. Elastic structure

For a structure (Figure 33.13) to be stretchable it should
be designed with open knitwear construction and short
underlaps. The structure illustrated herein is the most
basic one. It is called tricot stitch or 1 and 1 (1 needle
underlap and 1 needle overlap).

33.9.1. Stretching the width and
length tricot structure


Figure 33.14 Stretching the width
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Figure 33.15.Stretching the
length of

It is dimensionally stretchable in
the width.as well as in the
length (figure 33.14 and figure
33.15)
Souch a structures made of
polyester or glass yarns is
coated and moulded into a light-
weight three- dimensional and
extremely tough honeycomb
construction.
Example for end-use:



False floor for private and institutional use to accommodate power and
communication cables.


Figure 33.16. To increase the length wise strength, Figure 33.17. To increase the width
a specific stitch construction is used wise stability, the underlaps are
(pilar stitch) lengthened (e.g) satin stitch)


Figure 33. 18. A dimensionaly stable structure is
achieved by combining these two types of stitch
construction (e.g. pilar- satin).
33.9.2. Open structures
One way to produce an open structure is to knit
unconnected pillars continuously while a connecting
underlap by horizontal yarns is produced only every few
courses.
This open polyethylene net is used to wrap pallet packing
units, stacks of crates for safer shipment or as illustrated to
stabilise round bales of hay or straw in the field (Figure
33.19).

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Figure 33.19. Open structures Pillar

The structure shown in the illustration is used as shading net and can be produced in
various shade grades (Figure 33.20.


Figure 33.20. Open structure to create shade invegetable production

Another way to produce an open structure is to form loops continuously on the same
needle and to interlace them laterally at certain intervals.
The net shown in the photograph is High-strength ploypropylene or polyester yarns
are used therein. The net is used to protect persons and buildings. Fish nets are other
possible end-use (Figure 33.21).

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Figure 33.21. The open chain structure with side connecting

33.9.3. Closed structures

Closed structures (Figure 33.22) of warp knitted knitwear can be prodused by:



Figure 33.22. Closed chain Figure 33.23.Less loop


Figure 33.24-26 Example for end-use of closed structures:
High-quality flags produced on an automatic
Three-needle bar warp knitting machine

Figure 33.24.Using heavier yarn materials Figure 33.25. Making longer underlaps

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Figure 33.26. Using more guide bars, combiningany of
the above methods

34. Three-dimensional structures

Three- dimensionals structures can be produced both on single-needle bar warp knitting
machines (pile knitwear) and on two- needle bar Raschel machines (spacer or tubular
twists).

34.1. Pile knitwear (twists)

The three-dimensional characteristic manifests itself by pile loops on one or on both
knitwear faces.The loops are formed by means of pile sinkers or other auxillary elements
(e.g. via needles) or produced by enhanced yarn feed of individual systems (Figure 34.1
and 2).


a) b)
Figure 34.1. Figure 34.2.

The pile loops are fixed by:
a- a stitch-forming yarn system provided in front of the pile systems,or;
b- intermeshhing of the front piles by themselves.

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Figure 34.3. Figure 34.4.

End-uses: Special cleaning (figure 34.3) cloths, Cleaning textiles(cleaning mop)
Incontinence wear, fibre-reinforced plastics (Figure 34.4).

34.2. Spacer and tubular knitwear

The following diagrams are used to demonstrate the knitting principles on a double-
needle bar Raschel machine.The following points should be noted:
The knitting action of each needle bar is similar to that of a standard Raschel
machine;
The needle bars are operating alternately;
The guide bars swing between the needles of each needle bar in turn;
Each guide bar can be shogged to make an overlap on either needle bar and
so form knitted loops on the selected needle bar. A warp-knitted double-face
knitwear is produced;
Typical features of warp-knitted double-face knitwears are: The knitwear has
got two right sides, that is, there are loop heads both on face and back.

34.3. Advantages the mono-and bi-axial D.O.S.

Unlike the arrangement in a woven structure (Figure 34.5), the yarns in D:O:S: are
absolutely straight and parallel (Figure 34.6).
Yarn properties are fully utilised to withstand deformation forces;
Optimally structured modulus;
Knitwear engineering is simple and knitwear properties can be pre-calculated
according to the intended end-use.









Figure 34.5. Schedule of woven structure
Figure 34.6. Straight and parallel structure
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Any yarn type can be processed-from low-twist soft staple yarns to high- tenacity
filament yarns (Figure 34.7).

Figure 34.7. The interweaving
of the weftchains
The secured interlacing of yarns, even in very
open mesh structures, makes transportation and
handling during further operations such as coating
and laminating much simpler (Figure 34.8. )

Excellent tear and tear propagation resistance. The yarn layers tend to bunch together
under load. A great extent of force is so required to destroy the structure.

Figure 34.8. Interleaved structures with twists woven

34.4.Warp-knitting cycles on a double
-needle bar Raschel machine

Guide bars 1 and 2 are shogged to overlap both needle bars (N I; N II) and so form
loops on the respective needle bar. A knitted double-face knitwear is produced
(Figure34.9).

Figure 34.9. The process of knitting

Guide bar 1 forms overlaps (loops) only on
needle bar I. Guide bar 2 forms overlaps (loops)
only on needle bar II. Two separate knitwears
are formed (Figure 34.10).








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Figure 34.10. Two separate yarn


Guide bar 1 forms overlaps on needle bar II
while guide bar 2 overlaps only needle bar I.
Two twists are produced. They are jointed
however by the ubder-laps into a single
knitwear sheet. The ideal way to produce a
plated double-face knitwear made of two
materials (Figure 34. 11).


Figure 34.11. Two
separate yarn combined withthe

Guide bar 1 is fully threaded and
overlaps needle bar I. Guide bar 4 is
also fully threaded and overlaps needle
bar II (Figure 34.12). Guide bars 2 and 3
are threaded only through one yarn
guide each at the extremities of knitwear
and overlap both needle bars. A
seamless tubular warp- knitted knitwear is formed. With the right threading arrangement
many tubes can be formed across the machine and the diameter of tubes can easily be
altered by changing the threading arrangement.


Figure 34.12. Seamless Mesh

Guide bar 1 is fully threaded and overlaps needle bar I. (Figure 34.13) Guide bar 4 is
also fully threaded and overlaps needle bar II. Guide bars 2 and 3 which are threaded to
form together a full set of yarns overlap both needle bars. A spacer knitwear is formed.


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Figure 34.13. Tubular mesh

34.4.1. Weft insertion systems
The principle of magazine weft insertion in warp knitting involves theinsertion of long
yarn ends, stretched in parallel across the whole width of machine. Insertion of a yarn
sheet into the hook-needle chains accounts for the high productivity of warp-knitting
machines. In dependence on the weft yarn materials processed, the MSUS (magazine
return weft insertion) or the EMS (single-end magazine weft insertion) principles are
used. Further to parallel weft insertion (tipical of Malimo) is possible (Figure 34.14 and
15).

Figure 34.14. MSUS principle Figure 34.15.EMS principle

The advantages of weft insertion systems:

Working width of up to 245
o
(6.22m);
Production speed of up to 1, 400 r.p.m., that is, a weft insertion rate of up to
7,560 m min
*
( on the basis of 24 yarn ends);
*depending on the relevant product to be produced;
Weft take-up speeds of to 320 m min
-1
(on the basis of 24 yarn ends);
Flexibile weft insertion system (weft repeat, number of weft ends);
All yarn types including high- tenacity and fragile technical yarns can be inserted;
Very high efficiency and productivity.
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Figure 34.16. Knitting ares of Raschel machine with Figure 34.17.Weft insertion typical
of weft insertion Malimo magazine

Four yarn layers (Figure 34.18) placed in perfect order each on top of other. Each layer
shows the uniformity of the non crimped parallel yarns interlaced by stitches. The
structure is dimensionally stable in all directions: + 450/-450/0
o
/90
o
.

Figure 34.18. Mesh with four layers
of yarn

A multi- axial multi-ply knitwear
demonstrating the two diagonal yarn sets
in addition to the bi-axial yarn sets created
by the mis laying guide bar (warp or ST-
yarn) and the magazine weft insertion
system (weft).

34.5. Multi- axial structures

A multi-axial multi-ply knitwear structures
(Figure 34.19) are twists bonded by a loop system, consisting of one or several yarn
layers stretcheded in parallel. Said yarn layers may have different orientation and
different yarn densities of single ends.
Multi-axial multi-ply twists are used to reinforce different matrices. The combination of
multi directional fibre layers and matices has proved capable of absorbing and
distributing extraordinarily high strain forces.


34.5.1. Multi-axial structures for substrates
The typical feature of warp-knitted multi-axial multi-ply structrures for substrates is the
interlacing of single ends in line with the stitch courses and the associated almost
smooth processing of fed yarns. These products are multi-ply structures with angles of
30
o
up to 60
o
and/or 90
o
/0
o
(Figure 34.20).

Applications are :inflatable bodies, such as airships, inflatable boats, inflatable life-rafts,
resuce tents, gas membranes, V- belts, flexibile roofing membranes etc.

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Figure 34.19. Multi axial structure





Figure 34.20. Airship

34.5.2. Multi-axial structures for fibre
Reinforced plastics

The typical feature of warp-knitted multi-axial multi-ply structures for fibre reinforced
plastics is the stitching- through principle, ensuring a uniform distribution of yarn ends
and preventing gap formation. In addition, fibrous webs, films,foams and other materials
can be incorporated. Angle positions of- 45
o
through 90
o
up to + 45
o
and 0
o
(Figure
34.21) are generally used, being infinitely variable.

Due to the non crimped and parallel yarn sheets, such as multi- axial multi-ply
structures are particulary suitable to reinforce plastics to form fibre reinforced
plastics (F:R:P).
The special characteristics of such composites are:
Low specific weight;
Adjustable stiffness between extremely stiff and extremely stretchable;
Resistance to corrosion and chemicals;
Highest mechanical load resistance.

Applicationa:
Rotor blades for wind power stations (Figure 34.22);
Moulded parts for automotive, aircraft, and ship building.
Equipment for sports and leisure-time activities e.q. skis, snowboards,
surfboards, sports boats

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Figure.34.21. Windmill
Figure 34.22. Moluded parts

34.6. Multi axial layered structure

Figure 34.23. Multi axial layered structureaction force
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Unlike knitted twists, multi-axial multi-ply structures have a high shearing strength under
diagonal forces.


Figure 34.24. Multi-ply structure Figure 34.25. Woven fabric



Figure 34.26. Example for good mould capability of multi-axial multi-ply structures

Advantages of multi-axial multi-ply structures (Figure 34.26):
Dimensionally stable in any direction;
Isotropic distribution of stress forces, uniform strain behaviour;
Optimal utilisation of tensite yarn strength in any directions of strain unlike woven
fabrics:
Reinforced 3rd dimension, that is, in Z-direction, thus reduced delamination
tendency by the interlacing yarn system.
Directly oriented, parallel yarn layers straightly placed each on top of the other-
without yarn crimp, providing the following advantages:
*enhanced interlaminar shearing strength;
*quick curing of resin;
*reduced resin quantities;
*increased impact resistance;
*excellent draping characteristics.

Lowest weight per unit area at maximum total strength possible;
Cost effective and variable layer structure in various angular directions, allowing
for additional materials to be incorporated, to be manufactured in only one
operation:

Yarn materials to be used: Aramid, fibreglass, carbon, hightenacity PES, PA, PE, PP.
Used as matrix materials are: Termosetting or duroplastic materials, polyvinyl chloride
PVC, ethylene vinyl acetate EVA, synthetic rubber, recently also pressure setting
matirxmaterials such as concrete, cement and the like.
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34.7. Composite twists

Composite twists are also unique structures produced using warp knitting and stitch-
bonding techniques is to combine several materials of partly opposite properties to
create a single mambrane that performs much more better than its components are
produced individually and then combined with different gluing, soldering or sewing
techniques, With the latest warp knitting, Raschel, abd stitch- bonding machines, the
composite knitwear is produced in a single, simple and very productive operation.
The most popular composite knitwear is a bi- axial reinforced nonwomen.

Any knitwear to be pierced can be reinforced with a mono-, bi-or multi-axial yarn
element on Raschel and/or stitch-bonding machines. Webs, mechanically bonded weds,
unbonded chopped strand mats (CSM) and, moreover, nonwovens bonded thermally or
by binder are reinforced.


Figure 34.27. The knitting elements of Raschel machine

Figure 34.28. Shematic illustration of a bi axial reinforced nonwoven
The knitting elemnts of this Raschel machine with web feed
Facility are engineered to place the two vertically entering
reinforcements (wrap/weft) onto the nonwoven.
Shematic illustration of a bi- axial reinforced nonwoven
with elements: warp, weft, interlacing yarns and
nonwoven.
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Figure 34. 29. Web on the reverse
of composite knitwear
Figure 34.30. The substrate for lamination
34.8. Bi-axial reinforced nonwovens
Bi-axial reinforced non wovens are frequently used as substrate for laminating or in the
field of geotextiles.

Features/ advantages:
Good surface covering power of nonwoven;
Excellent process ability due to antislip grey knitwear structure;
During the coating process (preference is given to calander coating):
*tear and tear propagation resistance;
*cohesion of substrate and matix are increased by the web filaments (bunching
effect).

Thanks to one-sided coating on the yarn side, the nonwoven side allows for:
*protection of coat/foil when being incorporated e.g. in refuse dumos;
*protection of coat/foil when being incorporated e.g. in refuse dumps;
*moisture drainage system e.g. in party tents to prevent water drip formation;
*enhanced wear comfort of protection suits.

Constructive increase of the mechanical properties of nonwoven by bi- axial yarn layers
in accordance with the product-specific require- ments. Although nonwovens themselves
do not have good mechanical properties, the exceptional tear resistance of the
composite knitwear is achieved by the directionally oriented reinforcement.




Web on the reverse side of composite knitwear
web;
weft yarn;
warp yarn:
interlacing yarn.
Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
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Figure 34.31. Figure 34.32.


Figure 34.33.

Improved flame- retardant properties by using
fibreglass nonwovens, reinforced by glass
yarns and used as bituminous roill roofing for
the insulation of flat roofs.

Improved flame-retardant properties by using
fibreglass nonwovens, reinforced by glass
yarns and used as bituminous roll roofing for
the insulation of flat roofs.

Improved foot-fall sound attenuation and heat insulation with textile appearace-
used as secondary carpet backing.

Reduced material cost (less yarn material needed.

34.9. Comparison of composite and woven knitwear
Example:
Laminating substrate/ Lengthwise (warp); Width wise (weft); Weight (D:O:S:);
Weight (grey knitwear); Weight (coated); Tear propagation resistance: Warp; Weft.
Both coated knitwear are produced with identical 550 dtex PE yarns. The raw material
cost of the knitted composite nonwoven is around 50% of that of











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Figure 34.34. Figure 34.35.


Figure 34.36.
D.O.S.
Composite structure Woven
2.5 ends cm
-1
14 ends cm
-1

2.5 ends cm
-1
14 ends cm
-1

33 g cm
-2
-
50 g cm
-2
-
88 g cm
-2
165 g cm
-2
518 g cm
-2
550 g cm
-2

175 N 120N
142 N 120 N
The woven knitwear. * Tera propagation resistance test according to the trapezoid method
DIN 53363


Figure 34.37

Knitwear properties:
High tensile strengh; Less elongation; Good water permeab-
Ility; Very low creep; Very good knitwear/soil interaction.
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34.10. Bi-axial reinforced composite
knitwear for geotextiles

A composie knitwear specially designed for use in soil geotechnical structures is the
symbiosis of the properties of a nonwoven and those of a reinforcement structure. The
strength properties of substrate system are permanently maintained, differences in the
carrying capability are compensated for, and the carrying capability is altogether
enhanced.

Knitwear function Function performed by Functional
description
Separation Nonwoven Prevents admixtures and
harrnful grain
rearrangements
Filtration Nonwoven Ensures non- pressurised
water flow between
different gradient
Drainage Nonwoven Drains gravitational water
according to transverse
gradient
Protection Nonwoven Protects the yarn layers
from damages
Reinforcement Bi-axial multi-ply structure Prevents deformations by
instant tensile strength
absorption.
Increase and stabilisation
of soil carrying capacity.
Ensures high resistance to
mechnical loads during
placement and operation












Figure 34.38. Railroad fondation
Application : Railroad foundation
Reduced dumping heights;
Reduction of granular materials;
Separation of different soils;
Better drainage;
High friction coefficient between geotextile and soil;
Faster consolidation (settlement) of subsoil;
Uniform load distribution reduces the danger of soil breaking.
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34.11. Bi-axial and multi-axial reinforced composite
twists for fibre reinforced plastics
Another attractive example for composite twists (figure 34.39) for laminated structures to
produce fibre reinforced plastics. Such yarn materials as fibreglass, carbon, aramid in
conjunction with fibrous webs, chopped strand mats (CSM) and substrate cloths are
preferably.

Figure 34.39. Bi- axial and multi axial reinforced composite

A stitch-bonding machine was developed to make bi-axial twists on which purely
mechanically bonded composite articles combined of un bonded CSM, parallel weft
(90
o
), and warp yarns (0
o
) can be produced in one operation only.
The multi-axial machine offers the unique possibility to produce multi-axial composite
e.q. in the combination of CSM, multi-axial yarn layers, and un bonded CSM on the top
face of knitwear in one operation.
The tecniques so offer best conditions for cost- effective production of long-staple
reinforced composites with optimal bi-and multi-axial load absorption as being used for
moulded parts in automotive, boat, container, and sports equipment building as well as
for profiles etc. (see also Bi-and Multi-axial structures chapter).

















Figure 34.40.

Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
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Content

The Author 7
Preface 8

1. Introduction to the history of knitting 10

1.1. Evolution of textiles 10
2. Start of hand knitting needles 10
2.1. Hand-knitting 10
2.2. Principles of hand knitting with two and a needle 12
2.3. Knitting mechanic 13
2.3.1.The principle of the machine Lee 14
3. Historical background and criteria for further
development of knitting techniques, and technology 18
4. Basic information about the knitting 27
4.1. Characteristics of the knitwear structure and their determination 37
4.2. Loop structure elements, graphic and technical cartridges 50
5. Analysis of the process of creating a loop 54
5.1. Principle of connecting the elementary unit knitting 68
5.2.The ratio of pulling force in the yarn in the process of weft 68
5.3.The procedures of warp with the latch, and pointed wrap around needle 69
6. Finesse machine 70
6.1. Division of knitting machines 74
7. The process of creating loops in the right flat
right flat knitting machine Left 78
7.1. The process of creating loops on flat weft machines 79
7.2. The process of creating loops on the Left-Left flat knitting machines 83
7.3.The process of creating loops on circular knitting machines with
latch needles and a needle bearing 83
7.4. The process of creating loops on the right-right circular
knitting machines with latch needles 87
7.4.1. Analysis of the position half loop and loop
in the process of right-right twists 89
7.5. The process of creating loops on right-right weft machines Cotton 92
7.6. The process of creating a circular loop on weft machines 93
7.7. The procedure of knitting loops on the knitting machine
with warp pointed needles 95
7.8. The process of creating loops on warp knitting
machines right- right pointed needles 97
7.9. The process of creating loops on the right-left warp
knitting machine with a grooved needle "Malimo 98
7.10.The process of creating loops of warp knitting
machine with latch needles Rachel 99
7.11. The process of creating loops on the right- left warp
knitting machine Raschel 101
7.12. The process of creating loops of warp
knitting machine "Coquette" with grooved pins 102
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7.13.The basic elements of knitting machines based on
knitting machines with needle-pointed and Tongue 105
7.14. Sampled panel 108


8. Analysis and design of action yarn and thread
during their movement in the process of knitting 111
8.1. Euler and Lagrange arc coordinates 112
8.2. Natural and principal axis 114
8.3. Elements of the theory of surface 115
8.3.1. Cylindrical surface 116
8.3.2. Working area of the body 118
8.3.3. Curved surface of the body or shaft 119
8.4. External forces and moments 122
8.4.1. Causes related to surface properties 124
8.4.2. Causes, associated with a twist of the yarn 125
8.5. Movement exceeds the rough surface 129
8.5.1. Boundary conditions 133
8.6. Movement of the yarn by a cylindrical surface 136
9. The dynamics of the warp yarn tension in the
warp knitting 140
10. Determination of the suspended
period of one cycle in the process of warp knitting 145
10.1. Interaction among forces acting in the loop tensile
bases and the withdrawal of twists 148
10.2. Analysis of force elements in the loop by Euler's formula 151
10.3. Analysis and reciprocal action knitting authority
at warp knitting 152
10.3.1.Interaction with bodies of knitting yarn and the
Influence of friction 152
10.3.2. Balanced position half loop 153
10.3.3. The equilibrium position of the cylindrical half loop
surface 158
10.3.4. The equilibrium position of the yarn with her
laying on pins and needles 159
11. Determination of parameters of laying the yarn
in the knitting process base on knitting machines
and their analysis 165
11.1.Position point fold yarn in her laying on
pins and needles 170
12. Budget knitting warp knitting
machine system 175
12.1. Budget moving needle 175
12.2. Empirical formula for moving different types of needles 179
12.3. The process of laying the yarn behind the needle on the
circular latch knitting machines 181
12.3.1. Budget moving perforated needle, presses and platinum 181
12.3.2. Diagrams of warp knitting machines and their connection 183
13. Participation in the design of a loop
knitting system warp knitting machines 188
13.1.Security Warning Yarn 191
13.2. Add yarn to right-left circular knitting machines 192
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13.3. Setting guide yarn with different sizes of overtaking 192
13.3.1. Lining guide switch to a different level relatively constant
in the minds of needles size of the overpass 192
13.4. Add yarn to right-rightcircular knitting machines 194
13.4.1. Needle bearings are arranged on one level ( = 180 ) 195
13.4.2. Needle bearings arranged at an angle <180 195
13.5. Forms and layout variations in the
of knitting repeat 196
13.6. Calculation of the samples at selectors-group
electing the 197
13.7. Selectors - individual selection of working groups 200
13. 8. Calculation of the samples at individual independent choice the
temporaty 201
13.8.1.Structure feedback from samples in a
given field of knitting 212
14. The depth of weft 211
14.1. Ways to create different depths of weft
primary and plush yarn 211
15. The process of making weft interlacement 214
16. The process of making warp knitted
interlacement footer 218
17. Making curtains and lace 225
18. Warp knitted jacquard interlacement 228
18.1. Right-left jacquard interlacement 230
18.1.1. A simple embossed jacquard interlacement 230
18.2. Embroidered jacquard weave embossed 234
19. Knitted knitwear warp knitted
weft interlacement and their analysis

239

19.1. Structure 239
19.2. Analysis of making clad interlacement
the right-left warp knitting machines 240
19.3. Diversion guide bars in front of the needle
in one direction 243
19.3.1. Diversion guide bars in front of the needles
in opposite directions 244
19.3.2. Features generated loop 244
19.3.2.1. Diversion guide bars behind the needle 244
19.3.3. The principle of obtaining traps 247
19.3.3.1. Getting traps on a machine with a pointed needle 247
19.3.3.2. Getting traps on machines with latch needles 248
19.3.4. Analysis of interference footers exceeds
the basic interlacement 249
20. Analysis friction on the yarn guiding cylinder
surfaces knitting machines 252
20.1.Analysis of moving the needle with tongue
in the process of closing 255
21. The geometry of the loop 257
21.1. Geometrical model of right-left
smooth weft knitwear 258
21.2. Elastic properties of smooth twists weft 261
21.2.1. Strength of right-left twists 262
21.2.2. Twisting right-left knitwear 263
21.2.3. Pressure force in the loop right-left twists 265
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21.2.4. Pressure force in the loop right-left twists 266
21.2.5. Analysis of tensile strength with right-left twists 266
21.2.6. Biaxial load of right-left twists 267
21.2.7. Strength of knitwear 274
21.2.8. Breaking strain of smooth knitwear
being extended in length 275
21.2.9. Breaking strain smooth knitwear
being extended across the width 276
22. The connection between the length of yarn in
the loop, step loop, the loop line height and thickness 276
of the yarn in left-right base knit
22.1. Stretching knitwear with stretch yarn participation 280
22.1.1. Surface density knitwear 281
22.2. Geometric characteristics of the structure knitwear 282
23. Geometrical model to the left of the
left knitwear 283
23.1.The length of yarn in the loop, the characteristics 284
24. Derived smooth interlacement
of design knitwear vertically and horizontally 287
24.1. The length of yarn in the loop, the coefficient of
relationship density derived smooth Interlacement 288
25. Designing the right-left press knitwear 290
25.1. Appendix different combinations of
derivative right left Interlacement 298
26. Structure and design footer interlacement 317
26.1. Features twists and calculation methods 319
26.2. The structure and design clad interlacement 326
26.2.1.Vrste twists and their structure 326
26.2.2. Features clad with fabric and design its structure 329
26.3. The structure and design of plush interlacement 332
26.3.1. Kinds of knitwear and its structure 332
26.3.2. Features and design plush knitwear 336
26.4. Updated weave, structure and properties 337
26.5. Knitwear pineapple interlacement 344
26.5.1. The structure and properties 344
27. Smooth double knitwear 347
27.1. Rib, its structure and properties 347
27.1.1.Structure Rib 347
27.1.2. Properties and parameters Rib interlacement 348
28. Double Rib, or interlock interlacement,
their structure and properties 358
28.1. Structure double Rib interlacement 358
28.1.1. Properties and parameters interlock interlacement 359
29. Knitting machines 365
29.1. Flat knitting machine with one needle bearing 365
29.1.1. Needle technology: latch needles 366
29.1.2. Needle technology: compound needles 367
29.1.3. How knitting 367
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29.2. Needle-bed technology 370
29.2.1. Sinker technology 372
29.2.2. Feeder technology 373
29.2.3. Cam technology 374
29.2.4. Stitch size and stitch cam adjustment 375
29.2.5. Take-down technology 376
29.2.6. Roller take-down systems 376
29.2.6.1.Take-down systems 392
Stitch comb take-down systems 377
29.3. Needle selection I 377
29.4. Needle selection II electronic 377
29.5. Stitch transfer 379
29.5.1. Racking 396
29.5.2. Machine control (introduction) 379
30. Machine architecture / construction I 379
30.1. Machine architecture / construction II 380
30.2. Intarsia flat knitting machines 381
30.2.1. Technical characteristics 385
30.3. Modern circular knitting machines 387
30.3.1. Terry Circular knitting machines YTW-ST 394
30.4. Elementary Knitting biomedical
research project on AIDS, diabetes 399
30.4.1. Project partners 399
30.4.2. Transplant of pancreatic stem cells 400
30.4.3. Project aims 400
30.4.4. New fields of application for warp knitting 401
30.5. Movement of platinum (sinker) 402
30.5.1. Relative movement 402
30.6. Warp knitting machine architecture / construction 403
30.6.1 Basic structure of a single bar knitting machine 403
30.7. Needle technology 404
30.7.1. Knitting element displacements 404
30.7.2. Tricot knitting 405
30.7.3. Bearded needle knitting 406
30.7.4. Bearded needle knitting 406
30.7.5. Bearded needle knitting 407
30.8. Bearded needle knitting 407
30.8.1. Tricot knitting machine 407
30.9. Raschel knitting 408
30.9.1. Yarn feeding 408
30.9.2. Warp let off system 409
30.9.3. Knitting element displacement technology 409
30.9.4. Time displacement diagrams 410
30.9.4.1. bar shog, overlap and under lap 410
30.9.5. Chain link mechanism 411
Guide bar shog, overlap and under lap 411
30.9.6.Take-down technology 412
30.9.7. Machine control 412
30.10. Demonstrate the working procedure of
double needle bar Raschel machine 412
30.10.1. Warp Knitting Atlas Construction 414
30.10.2. Stitch Forming Process on Tricot Warp
Knitting Machine 417
30.10.3. Emerging technology warp knitting 420
30.10.4. Technological Emergence 421
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30.11. Platinum (Sinker) 422
30.11.1. Cylinder and dial knitting 423
31. Basic concepts necessary for understanding the basic
characteristics of the knitting machine and knitted structures 424
31.1. Introduction to knitting 424
31.2. Binding elements in weft knitting 426
31.2.1. Stitches 426
31.3. Basic weft knitted structures 427
31.3.1. Rib knitted structures 428
31.3.2. Purl knitted structures 429
31.3.3. Interlock knitted structures 429
31.3.4. Interlock knitted structures 430
31.3.5. Comparison between simple weft knitted and
interlacement knitwear 430
31.4. Meyer single jersey sinker machine 431
31.4.1. Transfer loop steps 432
31.4.2. Yarn feeders -Feed technology 433
31.4.3. Cam technology 433
31.4.4. Needle selection I 434
31.4.5. Needle selection II 435
31.4.6. Needle selection III 435
31.5. Take-down technology 436
31.6. Machine control 436
32. Flat knitting machines, knitwear structure
and patterning 437
32.1. Knitted knitwear 437
32.1.1. Weft knitted structure 438
31.1.2. Use of the four basic structures 439
31.1.3. Plain knit knitwear 439
31.1.4. Rib structures 439
31.1.5. Purl structures 430
31.1.6. Interlock structures 440
31.2. Patterning 440
32.2.1. Objectives of patterning 440
32.2.2. Tuck loops 441
32.2.3. Multiple tucks 441
32.2.4. Floats 441
32.2.5. Multiple floats 441
32.2.6. Nlay yarn 442
32.2.7. Horizontal striping 442
32.2.8. Intarsia designs 442
32.2.9. Plating 442
32.3. Racking 442
32.3.1. Racking and loop transfer 443
32.3.2. Limitations of racking 443
32.3.3. Loop transfer racking 443
32.4. Pattern racking 443
32.4.1. Knitted loop transfer 444
32.5. Yarn feeding techniques 445
32.5.1. Doubling 445
32.5.2. Jacquard knitting 445
32.6. Circular knitting knitwear structures and patterning 446
32.6.1. The development of jersey knitting in the UK 446
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32.6.2. The development of jersey knitting in the UK 447
32.6.3. The development of jersey knitting in the UK 447
32.6.4. The development of jersey knitting in the UK 448
32.6.5. The double jersey boom 1960-1975 448
32.6.6. Double jersey blister structures 449
32.7. Color jacquard structures 451
32.7.1. The end of the double jersey boom 451
32.7.2. Yarn tension, cam forces and robbing back 452
32.7.3. Knitting on a needle array 452
32.8. Action of needles and cam system 453
32.8.1. Knitting on a needle array 453
32.8.2. Cam angle and yarn tension 454
32.8.3. Needle butt impact with cam system 454
32.9. Action of needles and cam system 454
32.9.1. Cam angle and yarn tension 454
32.9.2. Cam angle and yarn tension 456
32.9.3. Compromise between needle / cam impact
forces and yarn tension 456
32.9.4. Cam angle and circular machine productivity 456
32.10. Quality control, robbing back, loop length
and input tension 456
32.10.1. The True Positive Feed and quality
control in weft knitting 457
32.10.2. Assisted feed systems and the True Positive Feed 457
32.11. Quality control in Flat knitting machines 458
32.11.1. Quality 459
32.11.2.Yarn quality 459
32.11.3. Yarn count (tex) and twist (turns/cm) 459
32.11.4. Yarn lubrication 459
32.11.5. Objectives of yarn lubrication 460
32.11.6. Lubrication of filament and spun yarn 460
32.12. Quality control: initial machine settings 460
32.12.1. Loop length control 461
32.12.2. Loop length control 461
32.12.3. Yarn input tension 462
32.13. Positive feed 463
32.14. Loop length control on jacquard machines 464
32.15. Dropped stitches and holes 464
32.15.1. Needle lines 464
32.15.2. Knitwear barred 465
32.15.3. Lint control 465
32.16. Graphical representation of weft knitted structures
Introduction 465
32.16.1. Stitch diagrams 466
32.16.2. Yarn path notations 466
32.16.3. Types of point paper 466
32.16.4. Yarn path notations for common structures 467
32.16.5. Plain knit 468
32.16.6. Rib knit 468
32.17. Yarn path notations for common structures 468
32.17.1. Purl knit 469
32.17.2. Yarn path notations for rib derivatives 469
32.17.3. Half cardigan or royal rib 469
32.17.4. Yarn path notations for rib derivatives 469
32.17.5. Interlock 470
32.17.6. Punto di Roma 470
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32.17.7. Pique 470
32.18. Technical pattern representation 470
32.18.1. Types of pattern paper 471
32.18.2. Plain knit 471
32.18.3. Plain knitted structure 471
32.18.4. Purl knit 472
32.18.5. Rib knit 472
32.18.6. Interlock 472
32.18.7. Half and full cardigan 472
32.19. Jacquard knitting 473
32.19.1.Weft knitting quality control 473
32.19.2. Quality 473
32.19.3. Quality control, the history 474
32.19.4. Quality control, the history 474
32.19.5. Early yarn feeding devices 475
32.19.6. The HATRA course length tester 476
32.19.7. The HATRA yarn speed meter 476
32.20. Knitwear relaxation 477
32.20.1. Relaxation animation 478
32.20.2. Knitwear relaxation 478
32.20.3. Quality control for cotton and wool knit wears 479
32.20.4. Starfish and cotton jersey 479
32.20.5. Woolen knitwears and felting shrinkage 480
32.21. Felting animation 480
32.21.1. Capstan yarn feeds 480
32.21.2. Digital drive positive feed 481
32.21.3. Storage feeders and jacquard knitting 481
32.21.4. Combination storage and positive feed 482
32.21.5. Loop length control on Flat knitting machines 483
32.22. The mechanism to add the yarns
single cylinder sock machines 483
32.22.1. General of the mechanism 484
32.22.2. Electronic needle selection mechanism 484
32.22.3. The process of knitting socks 484
32.23. Two-cylinder machine, "Dera 5 WJ" 488
32.23.1. General of the slot devices 488
32.23.2. Electronic needle selection mechanism 494
32.23.3. Transfer needles from one cylinder to another 495
33.Technical textiles..............................................................................496
33.1.Technical conditions-parameters warp knitted structures........................497
33.2. The knitwear producing elements of a warp
knitting machine......................................................................................497
33.2.1. The process of creating loops on the Raschel machine........................499
33.3.Stitch- bonding as a special case of
warp knitting technique..............................................................................500
33.3.1. Mechanical bonding
Stitchbonding or needlebonding.......................................................500
33.4. Maliwatt stitchbonding system..............................................................501
33.5.Malivlies stitchbonding system.........................................................501
33.5.1. Structure of a Malivlies knitwear.....................................................................502
33.5.2. Stitching action of a Malivlies machine....................................................503
33.6. Malimo stitchbonding system.....................................................................................503
33.7. Malipol stitchbonding system...................................................................504
33.8. Voltex stitchbonding system...............................................................................505
33.9. Basic constructions Elastic structures....................................................506
33.9.1. Stretching the width and length tricot structure..............................................506
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33.9.2. Open structures.....................................................................................507
33.9.3. Closed structures........................................................................509
34. Three-dimensional structures.510
34.1. Pile knitwear.........................................................................................510
34.2. Spacer and tubular knitwear.................................................................................511
34.3. Advantages the mono-and bi-axial D.O.S. 511
34.4.Warp-knitting cycles on a double-needle
bar Raschel machine.............................................................................................512
34.4.1. Weft insertion systems........................................................................514
34.5. Multi- axial structures............................................................................................515
34.5.1. Multi-axial structures for substrates.........................................................515
34.5.2. Multi-axial structures for fibre
reinforced plastics......................................................................516
34.6. Multi axial layered structure.......................................................................517
34.7. Composite twists..................................................................................................519
34.8. Bi-axial reinforced nonwovens.......................................................................520
34.9. Comparison of composite and woven knitwear........................................................521
34.10. Bi-axial reinforced composite knitwear for geotextiles...............................523
34.11. Bi-axial and multi-axial reinforced composite
twists for fibre reinforced plastics.....................................................................524

Content 525
Literature 534








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-on on developments in this area, but the author and publishers can not accept responsi
bility for the validity of all materials.
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Author




Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
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LITERATURE

1. Cook D.L., Grosbeg P. The Load - Extension properties of warp knitted Fabrics.- Text.
Res.J.., 1961, VI, p.636.
2. Hearle J.W.S., Grosberg P.,Bacher S. Structural Mechanics of Fibers, Yarns and
Fabrics.- Wiley Interscience, 1969, VI, p.456.
3. Popper P. The theoretical Behavior of a Knitted fabric Subjected to biaxial
Stresses.- Text. Res.J., 1966, N 2, p.148.
4. Smirfitt J.A. Some physical properties.- J.T.I., 1965, 56, p. 298.
5.Konopasek M. Metod issledovanija peteljnoi strukturi trikotaa.- Izvestija vuzov.
Tehnologija legkoi promilennosti, 1968, No 1, s. 81.
6. Bencman A.M., Garbaruk V.N. Ob ustoiivosti formi petlji v trikotae.- Izvestija vuzov.
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Technology of knitting with the theoretical and experimental analysis
Author : Vojislav R. Gligorijevic, professor // vojatriks@yahoo.com 539




CIP -

,

677.025

GLIGORIJEVI, Vojislav R., 1942-
Tehnology of Knitting with the Theoretical
Experimental and Analysis : #a #comprehensive
handbook and practical guide / Vojislav R.
Gligorijevic. - 1st ed. in English. -
Leskovac : V. Gligorijevi, 2011 (Beograd :
Nova kola). - 539 str. : ilustr. ; 30 cm

Tira 200. - The Author: str. 6. -
Bibliografija: str. 534-538.

ISBN 978-86-914211-3-7

a) -
COBISS.SR-ID 185446412
















Leskovac, 2011/ Serbia

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