Oeufs en cocotte

with leeks, spinach, smoked salmon, and cumin

I have yet to tell you about my fascination with eggs. Its about the fond memory I have of collecting them at my grandmothers. Its about their beautiful natural shape, so simple and elegant, and so inspiring to style and photograph. And then there are the countless ways to cook them. One example is oeufs en cocotte (French for baked eggs). Eating this dish is a show in itself: You can dip a mouillette (the French word for soldier, as in a thin stick of bread) in the yellow of the runny egg yolk and watch the bread absorb it like a sponge, before popping the bread into your mouth. Then start all over again; its exciting every time. These oeufs en cocotte offer delicate flavors of leek, smoked salmon, spices, cream, and butter that smell like a lazy brunch on a Sunday, though they are also perfect served as an appetizer. If you dont like a runny egg yolk, keep in mind that you can always adjust the cooking time to prepare the eggs the way you like. Serves 4 You will need: four 8-oz ramekins 2 tablespoons (30 g; 1 oz) unsalted butter 2 small young leeks, whites and greens, cleaned and thinly sliced diagonally 1 large shallot, finely chopped cup (60 ml) dry white wine or white vermouth 4 oz (125 g, or 5 packed cups) fresh baby spinach teaspoon ground cumin Sea salt and pepper 2 large slices smoked salmon, minced 4 extra-fresh large eggs 6 tablespoons heavy cream Freshly grated nutmeg 1 tablespoon chopped chives Salmon roe, to serve (optional) Preheat the oven to 400oF (200oC). Butter four 8-oz ramekins; set aside. In a frying pan, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter over medium heat. Add the leeks and shallot and cook on low to medium heat without browning, stirring, for about 7 minutes, until soft. Add the wine and cook until the liquid is absorbed; set aside.

Melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter in the pan and add the spinach and cumin. Season with sea salt and pepper and cook for about 5 minutes, until the spinach is wilted. Let cool, and using your fingertips, squeeze the excess water. Finely chop and set aside. In each ramekin, add a layer of leek, then one of smoked salmon. Finish with the spinach. Carefully break 1 egg inside each ramekin. Pour the cream around the egg yolk, making sure that it does not cover the yolk. Season with sea salt and pepper and add a pinch of nutmeg and chives. Cook the eggs in a water bath (see Basic Cooking Techniques, page 27, for instructions) for 10 to 12 minutes, until the egg white is set and the yolk is still runny. Serve warm with crusty bread or mouillettes, and if using, top with salmon roe.