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Visitors Guide 2012-13

The East Mountains and Estancia Valley

The legacy of leadership

Great leaders leave a mark on the communities they serve. They bring people together, create a consensus and work hard to make positive change. What is accomplished today can last for generations. East Mountain, thank you for creating a lasting legacy of success. Moriarty 901 Rte 66 505-832-4436 Tijeras 503 Hwy 333 505-286-6184 Smith's Edgewood 2B State Rd 344 505-286-4223 Estancia 204 S 5th St 505-384-2734 wellsfargo.com
2012 Wells Fargo Bank, N.A. All rights reserved. Member FDIC. 121951 04/12

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2012-13

P.O. Box 2225, Moriarty, NM 87035-2225 (505) 823-7100


T.H. LANG Publisher DAVID B. PUDDU VP/COO RORY MCCLANNAHAN Editor 823-7102 editor@mvtelegraph.com KITTY WATKINS Office Manager 823-7101 kwatkins@mvtelegraph.com LAURIE CLARK Reporter 823-7105 lclark@mvtelegraph.com HAROLD SMITH Reporter 823-7104 hsmith@mvtelegraph.com LEE ROSS Reporter 823-7103 lross@mvtelegraph.com CAROLYN COMSTOCK Advertising 823-7108 ccomstock@mvtelegraph.com BEVERLY TRUJILLO Advertising 823-7109 btrujillo@mvtelegraph.com CONNIE SANCHEZ-WILSON Classified Advertising 823-7100 class@mvtelegraph.com

TABLE OF CONTENTS
Map of Turquoise Trail and Salt Missions Trails ....................................... 6 New Mexicos Centennial .......................................................................... 7 Turquoise Trail ........................................................................................... 9 Tijeras Open-Air Market .......................................................................... 11 Tijeras Pueblo .......................................................................................... 12 Tinkertown ............................................................................................... 14 Archeology Museum................................................................................ 15 Sandia Ski Area ........................................................................................ 16 Snowshow Racing.................................................................................... 17 Sandia Mountains..................................................................................... 18 Paa-Ko Ridge Golf................................................................................... 20 Turquoise Trail Communities .................................................................. 21 Golden ...................................................................................................... 22 Madrid ...................................................................................................... 24 Salt Missions Trails .................................................................................. 26 Agriculture ............................................................................................... 27 Fiber Farms .............................................................................................. 28 Estancia .................................................................................................... 29 Punkin Chunkin ....................................................................................... 30 Mountainair .............................................................................................. 31 Manzano Mountain Arts .......................................................................... 35 Center of New Mexico ............................................................................. 36 Rodeo Roundup ....................................................................................... 37 Salinas National Monument..................................................................... 40 Apple Farming ......................................................................................... 42 Land Grant Tradition................................................................................ 43 Manzano Mountains................................................................................. 44 Single Action Shooting Society ............................................................... 46 Route 66 ................................................................................................... 48 Wildlife West Nature Park ....................................................................... 50 Pumpkin Patch ......................................................................................... 52 Moriarty Civic Center .............................................................................. 53 Letterboxing ............................................................................................. 54 Memorial of Perpetual Tears .................................................................... 55 Moriarty Municipal Airport ..................................................................... 56 Soaring competition ................................................................................. 57 Pinto Bean Fiesta ..................................................................................... 58 Mudd Mania ............................................................................................. 59 Things to do ............................................................................................. 60 On the Web............................................................................................... 61 Event Calendar ......................................................................................... 62

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Mountain View Telegraph (USPS # 018-451, ISSN # 154-59543) is published weekly by Number Nine Media Inc.,P.O. Box 2225, Moriarty, NM 87035 . SINGLE COPY 50 cents MAIL RATES In State: $22 per year Out of State: $45 per year All mail subscriptions are payable in advance. Application to mail at Periodical Postage Rates paid at Albuquerque, NM 87103. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Mountain View Telegraph, P.O. Box 2225, Moriarty, NM 87035. Letters to the editor and guest columns are welcome and must be signed by the writer and include a telephone number for verification purposes. Letters and columns are subject to editing. Correspondence should be directed to Mountain View Telegraph, P.O. Box 2225, Moriarty, NM 87035-2225. Phone: 823-7100. Fax: 823-7107.

Cover design by Ayanna Ware


This steel sculpture in front of the Alpine Alley Coffeehouse in Mountainair was created by local artist LeRoy Simmons.

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Sedillo Hill
Rt. 66 Travel Center
Easy Off and On Ramps

I-40 Exit 181

Gateway to:
Historic Rt. 66 Sandia Crest / Tram Ride Turquoise Trail Manzano State Park Salinas Pueblo National Monument Cibola National Forest Trails Spanish Land Grant Villages Founders Ranch - SASS Gran Quivira Pueblo Missions World Class Golng & Skiing in season Tijeras Village & Pueblo Ruins Gas / Diesel Beer, Wine, Spirits Sunday Liquor Sales 12 noon to closing Ice, Drinks & Snacks Store Open day light hours Pumps open 24/7 with approved cards Easy RV Turn Around

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ILLUSTRATION BY KEVIN NOWOTNY

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New Mexico Celebrates 100 Years

COURTESY OF MORROW HALL

Public transportation was important even in the early days of New Mexicos statehood.

ew Mexico is celebrating 100 years as a state in 2012. On Jan. 6, 1912, President William Howard Taft signed the paperwork creating the state of New Mexico. The Moriarty Messenger newspaper at the time hailed Tafts signing of the enabling act making New Mexico a state done on a Saturday afternoon with the headline New Mexico Is A State At Last. That seven-word headline says much about the efforts to gain statehood, especially the last two words At Last. New Mexico had a long history before becoming part of the United States in 1846, but the history after Mexican territory was occupied by federal troops to the time of statehood was probably the most contentious time in the states history. In his book, New Mexicos Quest for Statehood, 1846-1912, historian Robert W. Larson thoroughly examines the struggles New Mexico went through to obtain statehood. It was mid-August, 1846, when Brigadier General Stephen Watts Kearney led his confident American forces into the ancient capital of Santa Fe, bringing an old era to an end and inaugurating a new one, Larson writes in the first sentence of his book. For 236 years, New Mexico had been ruled first by the Spanish, then by the Mexicans. Kearney was at the head of a conquering army at the beginning of the Mexican War, a war that had been ignited over boundary issues between Texas and Mexico
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and having little to do with New Mexico. When Kearney entered New Mexico, there wasnt much of a resistance, but that came with a promise Kearney made that New Mexicans would soon be able to govern themselves and that all the rights and privileges guaranteed them under Mexican rule would be maintained. In addition, New Mexicans would quickly become U.S. citizens. However, Larson writes, New Mexicos status was that of an occupied territory for at least four years before the U.S. Congress could make a decision on its fate and that border issues among New Mexico, Texas and Mexico could be determined. In 1848, the Treaty of GuadalupeHidalgo was ratified by both Mexico and the U.S. giving possession over to the Americans. New Mexico was now part of the United States, but her status in that Union would be a subject of controversy for many years to come, Larson writes. New Mexicos first attempt at statehood came in 1850, but forces within the state and at the national level sabotaged that effort. Within the state, Larson writes, were two factions one that supported statehood and one that supported New Mexico to be declared a territory of the U.S. As a territory, New Mexico would be ruled by a governor appointed by the U.S. president and there would have to be a large military presence, which to many meant government contracts and a boost to New Mexicos economy. As with factions within New Mexico before and after, the behavior of the statehood faction and the territory faction raised concern among the military occupiers of New Mexico. However, once the factions were able to come to an agreement on asking congress for statehood, the federal government was in crisis over the issue of slavery. New Mexicans, for the most part, didnt care one way or another for slavery, only that it wouldnt work in New Mexico. However, with sectional differences between the South and North, New Mexicos status became contentious. To quell these concerns, New Mexicos constitution which had been approved by its population in a vote was ignored and

President William Howard Taft signs the enabling bill that made New Mexico a state on Jan. 6, 1912.

the area was designated as a territory as part of the Compromise of 1850. By 1872, New Mexicos area had been reduced with Arizona being sliced off, as well as parts of southern Colorado. The border with Texas had been fixed and the Civil War had been fought. It was time again to try for statehood and a constitutional convention was held in Santa Fe. Once again, a constitution was created, but this time politics from within the territory kept almost everyone from going to the polls to vote for or against the new state constitution. An accurate assessment of popular sentiment regarding statehood in 1872 cannot be made, Larson writes. It is obvious, though, that prostatehood sympathy was not strong. There is no record of an actual count of all submitted returns. Through much of the last 30 years of the 1800s, the question of statehood for New Mexico varied between great interest and almost complete apathy, both on the part of the federal government and New Mexicos population. Attempts at statehood were made in 1875 and again in 1889. The 1875 proposal died in Congress when Colorado was enabled but New Mexico was not. Criticism from Easterners that New

Mexico was undeserving of statehood was made the territorys populace were ignorant, corrupt and for the most part of Mexican descent. During the 1870s and 1880s, the Santa Fe Ring held much of its power, and the ring was more interested in acquiring large Spanish and Mexican land grants using the U.S. legal system to take advantage of those who didnt understand the legal pitfalls. The Santa Fe Ring, Larson writes, was in favor of statehood, which guaranteed little support from everyone else. By 1889, the call for statehood was being made again. But a constitution hated by most people was defeated in a territorywide vote. By the start of the 20th century, efforts were being made to enjoin Arizona and New Mexico and create one large state. Those efforts failed, but they resulted in enabling acts in 1910 giving both New Mexico and Arizona the go ahead to create constitutions for statehood. By this time, the support for statehood both by the federal government and the territorys population had been achieved and on Jan. 6, 1912, President William Howard Taft signed the paperwork creating the state of New Mexico.

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Turquoise Trail

hat the Turquoise Trail is one of New Mexicos treasures is not in question. But the name itself may be a bit of a misnomer. It is true that turquoise was once mined, and can still be found in the hills surrounding Cerillos to the north. But the trail itself has a history rich in other minerals as well as ranching, and currently, recreation. However, you really cant call the Turquoise Trail the Cement/Skiing/ Ranching/Gold/Coal Trail can you? It doesnt really roll off the tongue. The Turquoise Trail was designated as a National Scenic Byway in 2000, the result of the work of a dedicated group of residents in the Turquoise Trail Association. But its history stretches back to the first settlers in the area. The turquoise and other precious minerals found in the Sandia and Ortiz Mountains were valued by nomadic and pueblo Indians who made New Mexico

home. The minerals in the hills attracted the Spanish and American settlers. The 62-mile trail begins in Tijeras, which has long been a stopping point in the pass between the Manzano and Sandia Mountains. The village currently is home to the Rio Grande Portland Cement plant. Driving up N.M. 14 from Tijeras you will pass through the unincorporated communities of San Antonito, Cedar Crest, San Antonio and Sandia Park. The area is a mixture of old and new, with historic churches sitting next to modern grocery stores. Before leaving the Sandia Mountains, the trail takes a detour up the Crest Highway, which will take visitors past Tinkertown, several recreation areas and Sandia Ski Area up to the 10,687 foot Sandia Peak.
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After your visit to Sandia Peak, continue up N.M. 14 where you will shortly come upon the mining communities of Golden, Madrid and Cerillos. Golden was so named for the gold found nearby. Its a quiet little village, but if your timing is right, you can stop by the general store for a soda pop. Madrid was founded as a coal mining community, but is now probably one of the most eclectic little towns in New Mexico. Theres entertainment at the Mine Shaft Tavern and plenty of shops lining the street selling the wares of the artist residents of the town. Next on to Cerillos, where the best turquoise in the southwest was once found. As you travel up N.M. 14, you will eventually come to Santa Fe, the northern terminus for the trail. After your day in Santa Fe, you could take Interstate 25 back to Albuquerque, but the better thing to do would be to take the Turquoise Trail back and see all the things you missed the first time. Like we said, there is no question the Turquoise Trail is truly one of New Mexicos treasures.

Exit 278 A

Santa Fe

62 miles of adventure and interest between Albuquerque & Santa Fe.

Cerrillos

Madrid

Sandia Crest
golden

Sandia Park Cedar crest Exit 175

San Antonito

Albuquerque

Tijeras

www.turquoisetrail.org

Roger Holden

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f there is one thing in life that is constant it is change. And although the Tijeras Open-Air Market has been around for years, that doesnt mean change is bad. The market is held every week from May through October at Anna Kings Just Imagine Gallery in Tijeras. Of course there is art, but visitors also get a good helping of cheap entertainment from music, dancing and games. The market, which set up to the west and south of the gallery, is moving closer to Old Route 66. The change came about to make

Open-Air Market Rolls with the Changes


the market more visible. With the help of the village of Tijeras we were able to come up with better parking, King said. This year promises to offer much of the same family entertainment and local artwork as previous years, according to King. In the past couple of years, the market has had themed weekends, such as a Celtic market, a tradition King says will be continued this year. Not only that, but theyre organizing charity work like blood drives and pet adoptions, holding promotions like plant give away and childrens entertainment days that will include art supplies and canvas for kids to attack with paint. There may also be dance troupe performances to go with the live music this year. In addition to the Open-Air Market, the gallery will be home to a farmers market every Wednesday evening. The arts market is on the south side of Old Route 66 in Tijeras, just west of N.M. 337 (also known as South 14). It is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturday and Sunday from May 12 through the middle of October. Call 281-9611 for more information.

Holy Cross Episcopal Church

The Message of Holy: Love God and Love your neighbor as yourself. The Message is Hope for the future as we endeavor to bring the Kingdom of God into the Here and Now, and to Leave this World a better place than we found it.

Artists are the engine that makes the Tijeras Open-Air Arts Market a weekend event worth attending.

www.holycrossnm.org Sunday Services 8 a.m. & 10 a.m. Sunday School at 10 a.m. 367 State Hwy 344 at Hill Ranch Road 505-281-7722

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Ancient Pueblo Thrived in Tijeras

The Friends of the Tijeras Pueblo hold many lectures and classes at the site, including this one on flint knapping.

ecause of its location between two mountain ranges, Tijeras has long been at a crossroads. Tijeras Pueblo was one of a handful of destinations for thousands of pueblo dwellers when they mysteriously deserted the sophisticated pueblo cities of the Four Corners region, such as Mesa Verde. Tijeras Pueblo was inhabited from about 1300 to about 1425 A.D., and probably had hundreds of residents at its peak. There is evidence of a block of 300 rooms, a great kiva and a smaller one with a mosaic floor, both for ceremonial purposes. Tijeras Pueblo is considered a rare example of a Classic Period settlement. The architecture and layout of the village are considered pure, uncompromised by development from periods after it was abandoned, including the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors.

Because of its largely undisturbed state, Tijeras Pueblo is considered by the National Park Service to be of the highest level of national significance to underTIJERAS standing prehistory in the United States. The Tijeras passage, between the Tijeras Pueblo Archaeological Site was Sandia and Manzano Mountains, was named to the National Register of Historic the Anasazi gateway to the Rio Grande Places in 2005. Valley. These days, the site is tended by the In 1819, Albuquerque families park service and a group of dedicated volsettled in the area, and by the mid unteers, the Friends of the Tijeras Pueblo. 1930s, Tijeras was one of the primary An interpretive center was recently compopulation centers on the east side of pleted and the organization sponsors many the Sandia Mountains. The village of lectures on site. Tijeras was incorporated in 1973. In addition, the pueblo brags a garThe village is the southern terminus den that was planted using the techniques for the Turquoise Trail. employed by ancient settlers. Now, the Friends use the garden and the center as part of their education program, which tion in community events. includes guided site tours, classroom outArchaeological evidence indicates that reach, lectures, field trips, summer work- Tijeras Pueblo was partially abandoned shops and demonstrations and participaContinued on page 13

Getting Around

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after A.D. 1368. Many families left the community, and for about 20 years the pueblo remained relatively empty. A second phase of construction began in 1390. By A.D. 1425, the people of Tijeras had moved on. Some pieces of the Tijeras Pueblo puzzle were solved during excavations conducted over the years by the state of New Mexico and the Albuquerque Archaeological Society. The University of New Mexico Archaeological Field School returned to Tijeras Pueblo to conduct extensive excavations from 1971 to 1976. Today a large grass-covered mound is the only visible evidence of the 200-plus-room pueblo. After excavation, the ruins were reburied to protect the site from destruction by wind, rain and other forces. Tijeras Pueblo is located behind the Sandia Ranger District office on N.M. 337, a half-mile south of Interstate 40 in Tijeras. The self-guided trail is open to the public from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. weekdays and 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. on weekends. The trail begins at the ranger station and is approximately one-third of a mile long. It is an easy trail and is mostly accessible to wheelchairs. The Friends of Tijeras Pueblo also has a Web site at www.friendsoftijeraspueblo.org.

The garden at the Tijeras Pueblo Interpretive Center is used in several education programs.

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f you have lived in, or visited, the East Mountains for very long, you have probably been to Tinkertown. If you havent, then what have you been waiting for? Carla Ward has been running the museum since 1983. She sees 20,000 visitors a season from April to the end of October and they come from all around the world. Ward says the best part is the customers. She says one of her favorite things about Tinkertown is when customers come in and say that their parents brought them there when they were kids, and now they are bringing their kids. Seeing Tinkertown through your childrens eyes can be a whole new experience. You can start by pointing out to the kids some of the walls around the museum, made of 55,000 glass bottles collected from the roadside over the years, and an unintentional monument to recycling. Make sure to point their little faces down for a look at the horseshoes embedded in concrete that adorn the entrance of the museum. Lead them in to see the actual 35-foot antique wooden sailboat, which has sailed around the world and is quite large compared to the other Lilliputian exhibits. You can spend a couple of hours pointing out the intricate detail in the miniature carved exhibits God and the Devil fighting over some poor man, the tiny vendor forever handing a child a fluffy pink miniature cotton candy that looks good enough to eat, the cute little bunny that Vanteen the magician is pulling out of his hat. Its a sure bet that the kids will point out a few things to you, too, that you might have missed. Dont forget to look up and down and all around you never know what you might find in the nooks and crannies of the twisting and turning 22-room museum.

East Mountains Smallest Town Loaded With Fun

Tinkertown was created more than 30 years ago by sign artist Ross Ward. It opened as an attraction on the Crest Highway in 1983.

A scene from an Old West town carved by Ross Ward while the rest of us watched television.

Be prepared to answer some typical kid questions: Why are these floors made of wood? Why are there wooden vultures all over and why are they looking at me? You might come up with a few questions yourself, such as: Who dusts all of this?

You can point out the many coin-operated attractions Otto the one-man band, the fortune telling gypsy, the tiny chef chasing the even tinier chicken around and around. And dont forget to tell the younguns that stuff like this was the closest thing people used to have to video games. Dont forget to mention that Tinkertown was created by the late Ross Ward, who carved and collected the exhibits of Tinkertown over the course of 40 years with his wife Carla. Be sure to tell the kids that this is what happens when you have a passion for something, and decide to share that passion with the world. With so much detail in every exhibit, and with little eyes to see through, Tinkertown could be a whole new experience, no matter how many times youve been there before.

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Exhibits at the Museum of Archaeology include a replica of a Rio Grande style pit house from Santo Domingo Pueblo in the background, and a practice excavation site.

t is easy to miss the sign on N.M. 14 going through Cedar Crest. Or, if you notice the sign, it is easy to drive right on past it, thinking that someday you will go down that little dirt road and see what the Museum of Archaeology is all about. Bradley Bowman, a human remains expert, opened the museum 15 years ago. Bowman moved from Texas just to open the museum he thought it would be a good area for tourist traffic, and he also had an interest in the prehistory of the area. Bowman says that in the past, archaeology was as easy as taking a shovel and digging up dirt until you found something interesting. Now, he says, archaeologists want information, not just stuff, and scientists try to leave artifacts in the ground as much as possible. These days it is multidisciplinary, and scientists at a site will study bones, rocks, even remains of pollen and bugs to discover what happened there thousands of years ago. The museum exhibits include a replica of an archaeological dig, exhibits that show how scientists analyze different rock flakes and animal remains from a site to determine what went on there, a collection of pottery, a timeline of cultures from the area and Civil War artifacts. There are also exhibits on the history of the Turquoise Trail and the Sandia Caves. Bowman says he would like to turn his museum into a traveling one, in order to reach more people. As for the future of archaeology, Bowman says there is way more thats not known than is known. Every time you dig a hole, if you go into it with a question or two, youll come out with 10. ... Its very exciting and its going to stay very exciting. The museum is open from noon to 8 p.m. every day from May 1 to Nov. 1. Admission is $3.50 for adults, $1.50 for children ages 6 to 15, and free for kids under 6. The museums phone number is 281-2005.

Take a Trip to the Past in Cedar Crest

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Sandia Peak Ski Area: All Downhill From Here

network of cross-country ski trails is also available. The average annual snowfall in the ski area is 125 inches. During the summer season from Memorial Day through the second Sunday of October the lodge is open Thursdays through Sundays and holidays, and daily during Balloon Fiesta in October. Chairlift riders enjoying the fresh air and breathtaking view also see mountain bike riders challenging the spectacular mountain bike trails. Rental equipment for both seasons is available on site. For more information call the ski area at 242-9052. The entrance to the Sandia Peak Tramway is on Tramway Loop off Tramway Boulevard in Albuquerque. For information call 856-6419.

Sandia Peak Ski Area offers runs for just about every level of skier and snowboarder.

ast Mountains residents with an affinity for winter sports relish the fact that the Sandia Mountains, right in their backyard, offer a wealth of recreation. One of the highlights is the Sandia Peak Ski Area, and the worlds longest aerial tramway that reaches the top of the ski area from Albuquerque. Sandia Peak Tramways story is about a group of Albuquerque ski enthusiasts who had to drive to the green side of the mountain in the winter to ski. They would hike as far as possible uphill and ski down. After the U.S. Forest Service cleared a hill in 1936, the adventurers organized the Albuquerque Ski Club and in 1937 built a 1,500-foot ski tow. In 1938, the Civilian Conservation Corps cleared the slope that leads to the present-day ski lodge. The ribbon cutting for the tram was May 7, 1966. The horizontal length of the longest tramway in the world is 14,657 feet

or 2.7 miles with a vertical rise of 3,819 feet. But the tram is only one passage to the top of the Sandia Mountain. Another is the drive to the top on the east side of the mountain. And a third is the chairlift from the base of the Sandia Peak Ski Area, beginning at 8,650 feet and rising to the peak at 10,378 feet. At the top, the view of 11,000 square miles of the Land of Enchantment boggles the mind. The ski areas winter season runs midDecember through mid-March, although the 2009-2010 season was extended into April. The vertical rise from base to the peak is 1,700 feet. The ski area offers 30 trails serviced by four chairlifts, a surface lift and a childrens mighty mite. Ski patrol volunteers are on duty daily. A cafeteria in the day lodge serves breakfast, lunch and snacks. The lodge is a large facility Sandia Peak Ski Area is accessible for offering panoramic views of the ski area the east and west sides of the mountain. and the Estancia Valley to the east. A large

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Moriarty Lions Club


Bingo every Tuesday - 7pm 4th of July Pancake Breakfast /Bingo 2pm Pinto Bean & Pancake Breakfast - Oct. 13 Toy Run/Bike Rally - TBA Santa/Toys for Kids - Dec. 16 Eye Screening during school year (local schools)

Building Rental Available www.moriartynm.lionwap.org

C99220

Hug a Horse Thrift Shop

100S OF ITEMS!!

Furniture, Clothes, Housewares, Toys, Jewelry & Much More.


Supporting New Mexico Horse Rescue at Walkin N Circles Ranch

In Edgewood on Old Rt 66 (east of Smiths) Thurs. - Mon. 10-4 Sunday 12-3 286-0779 281-6292

The annual Sandia Mountain Snowshoe Race attracts racers of all skill levels for a day of family fun each January.

nce a year, every year, bunches of people drive up to the top of Sandia Mountain, strap big, funky shoes made of metal, plastic and leather, and run through the snow as fast as they can. The 10th annual Sandia Mountain Snowshoe Race will be held in January 2013. And it wont just be a bunch of experts. In fact, some participants may not have ever put on snowshoes before, according to Joy Bosquez, who organizes the event with her husband, Matt. Its just a beautiful, snow covered, national forest, Matt said. The course runs from the Crest House at the top of the mountain along the ridge line to the south and back again and it really doesnt gain or lose much altitude, Matt said. Its really a family-oriented activity, Joy added. The entire 3.2 mile course will be marked with flags and there will be marshals along the way to ensure peoples safety, Joy and Matt said. We do have some pretty serious racers, Matt said. Its open to all skill levels. Adding to the family atmosphere, sponsors have provided hot beverages and snacks for before and after the race, and there will be prizes for the winners in different age groups and other categories and a few door prizes. For more information, go to www.sandiasnowshoe.com, e-mail ganelo@earthlink. com.

Ready, Set, Snowshoe!

Read Write Adult Literacy Program


Improving literacy one person at a time
Interested in tutoring those who want to learn to read and write?

Call: 832-9469 WE NEED YOU!


Bargain Hunting at Bethel
8000sq. ft. of surprises 1000s of items stocked daily New & used merchandise at discount prices
Proceeds benefitting our neighbors in need for 25 years

Is Fun!
Tax receipts are available

Wednesday is senior discount day


Located on Hwy 41, 1 mile south of Rt 66 in Moriarty

www.Bethelstorehouse.org I 832-6642

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undreds of miles of hiking trails criss-cross the Cibola National Forest, which includes both the Sandia and Manzano mountains. Two U.S. Forest Service ranger districts manage this portion of the Cibola. The Mountainair Ranger District covers the southern portion that encompasses the Manzano Mountains, and the Sandia Ranger District in the northern part covers the Sandia Mountains. Both ranges are part of the continuous fault-block system that forms the east side of the Rio Grande rift valley from Placitas to Socorro.

Sandia Mountains Offer Many Recreation Possibilities

Info

For maps of all the trails in the Sandia Mountains, stop by the Sandia Ranger Station at 11776 N.M. 337 South, just south of the traffic light in Tijeras, or call 281-3304 or go online to www.fs.fed.us/r3/ cibola/

The Sandias and Manzanos were created when monolithic blocks of the Earths crust thrust upward about 20 million years ago. Ancient granite exposed along the steep west faces of the ranges forms the sides of the fault-blocks. The gradually sloping, heavily forested east faces actually the tops of the blocks are capped with much younger sedimentary layers. The most prominent feature of the Sandia Mountains is probably Sandia Crest, which tops out at the 10,658 feet. From the visitors area at the Crest you can get a full view of much of central New Mexico, including a startling look at the city of Albuquerque to the west and the
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Visitors can see much of central New Mexico from Sandia Crest. After checking out the views, visitors can browse through the gift shop.

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expansive Estancia Valley to the southwest. There is a gift shop at the Crest and plenty of trails for hiking. The Sandia Mountain Wilderness, when it was established through the Endangered American Wilderness Act of 1978, was made up of 30,981 acres of the Sandia Ranger Districts total 100,555 acres. Acquisition of the Elena Gallegos Grant in 1981 increased it to 37,232 acres of wilderness. More than 2 million people journey to the Sandias each year to hike the roughly 117 miles of the districts trails, according the Sandia Ranger District. More than a dozen trails are available to choose from, with one scenic favorite being the Crest Trail the longest trail in the Sandia Mountains with a total length of 28.2 miles. This trail is often thought of as two trails; the South Crest Trail, 16 miles long from the south trailhead at Canyon Estates in Tijeras Canyon to

Sandia Crest; and the North Crest Trail, 12.2 miles long from the north trailhead at Tunnel Springs near Placitas to Sandia Crest. One interesting side trip within the Sandia Mountains is to the Sandia Man Cave. The cave, discovered by an anthropology graduate student in 1936, was excavated by University of New Mexico archaeological teams between 1937 and 1941. It contained skeletal remains of such Ice Age beasts as the woolly mammoth and mastodon and giant sloth, as well as stone lance and arrow points, basket scraps and remnants of woven yucca moccasins. The diggers found no human bones in the cave debris. To get to Sandia Man Cave, take the Crest Highway to N.M. 165 and drive on a bumpy dirt road for about five miles. There is a short hike up the side of the mountain to get to the cave. Make sure to bring a flashlight and wear old clothes if you want to explore the cave. A host of hiking trails ranging from easy walks to more strenuous uphill jaunts are accessible from the numerous trailheads and picnic grounds along the Sandia Crest Highway (N.M. 536). Hikers can also park at the top of the Crest Highway and follow a portion of the Crest Trail to the upper terminal of the Sandia Peak Tramway, about 1.5 gentle miles away. To get to the Sandia trails, take I-40 to the Tijeras exit. Head north on N.M. 14 until you come to a large intersection (no stop light) with N.M. 536, where a blue sign points to the ski basin. The crest is about 15 miles up, but trailheads are marked along the way.

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estled on the eastern slope of the Sandia Mountains, Paa-Ko Ridge Golf Club seems remote for national even worldwide exposure. But the course has captured the imagination of golf publications such as Golf Digest magazine, and has consistently found itself ranked highly on most lists of the best public golf courses in the United States. Soon after the course opened, Golf Digest awarded Paa-Ko Ridge a lofty ranking of 27th-best in the country among Best Affordable Public Courses in its annual report on Americas best and most affordable courses. In the 2007 Zagat Survey, Paa-Ko ridge was the only course in the Southwest to be top rated. Links Magazine recently named PaaKo one of the top 10 Best Courses for the Money. Having Links Magazine recognize Paa-Ko Ridge Golf Course for the incredible value we provide in addition to all the other great accolades we have received, for example we were ranked 29 on the Best Courses You Can Play list in 2011 by Golf Magazine, gives validation to our belief that we not only provide a fantastic venue, but an incredible value for the dollar as well, said Rob Murray, Paa-Ko Ridge Golf Course general manager. Designed by renowned course architect Ken Dye, known for creating Pinon Hills in Farmington, Paa-Ko Ridge is easy on the eyes and on the wallet, according to Golf Digest writer Ron Whitten. The length of the season at Paa-Ko Ridge depends on the weather but can extend as late as Dec. 1. The course remained open until at least mid- to late November during its first five seasons. It usually reopens around March 1. The course offers a resort feel, with computerized Global Positioning Satellite golf carts that tell you how far you are from

Great Views, World Class Links at Paa-Ko Ridge

Paa-Ko Ridge Golf Course consists of 27 holes of resort-style championship golf in a breathtakingly beautiful setting in the East Mountains.

pins. Theres also bottled water in the carts, free balls on the driving range, a slick pro shop with a good selection and longer periods between tee times. With greens fees ranging from $59 to $114 including a cart, Paa-Ko is more expensive than some public courses but less than joining a country club.

Paa-Ko Ridge also offers a multi-play pass, where players can purchase three, five or 10 rounds in advance at a reduced rate, as well as a punch-card program and other promotions. For more information, call locally at 281-6000 or toll free at (866)898-5987; or go online to www.paakoridge.com.

20 The East Mountains & Estancia Valley 2012-13 Visitors Guide

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inding along the east side of the Sandias, the Turquoise Trail follows N.M. 14 through Cedar Crest and three revived ghost towns. *Cedar Crest: A settlement in the eastern foothills of the Sandia Mountains was founded in 1922 by Carl Webb, who moved to the mountains for health reasons. He built rental cabins, opened a trading post and operated the Cedar Crest Post Office. *San Antonio: This small community one mile north of Tijeras was named for its patron saint. It was a trading place when ox

Getting Around TURQUOISE TRAIL COMMUNITIES


carts made their way from Santa Fe. San Antonito: This community is probably named for its association with the older community, San Antonio, five miles south of it. Sandia Park: Residential community named for its location in the east foothills of the Sandia Mountains. Golden: Gold was discovered in the Ortiz Mountains in 1839, and soon two small mining camps developed. Large mining companies moved in but hopes for mineral wealth quickly dwindled. Mining

is gone, but the town still survives. Madrid: Coal mining began here in 1835 and peaked in 1920. When demand for coal dwindled after World War II, the entire town was offered for $250,000, but there were no takers. Art galleries and restaurants have replaced anthracite as a resource. Cerrillos: The settlement was a mining town of turquoise, silver, gold and then coal. The lovely town in the now-dormant mining hills has art galleries and eateries.

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ichael Montano has put a lot of sweat, a few tears and, yes, some blood into restoring San Francisco de Asis Mission Church and Cemetery in Golden. And all of that is over the space of a lifetime. Montano says that when he was a child, he would help his father, Manuel Montano, make repairs to the church that is believed to have been built in 1835. I love this little church, Michael said. My father is buried here. My faith is what drives me to do this. My heart feels blessed when I walk out of here after putting in a days work. A plasterer by trade, Montano has worked to restore the interior and exterior walls, build a wall around the cemetery, replace the doors, replace the floor and get electricity to the building for lights and fans. But more importantly, Montano and his co-conspirators have convinced the St. Josephs Diocese of Cerillos to resume a regular Mass schedule. Mass is important for a church and to a community, said Keith Zawistowski, who has been helping Montano and did the bulk of the work replacing the plywood floor with tile. Regular Mass is every Saturday at 4 p.m. With nothing but a sign by the road, the regular service is attracting about 25 people every week, and more are welcome. San Francisco de Asis Mission Church was built in 1835 and has served the community
of Golden on and off since.

Faith Drives Resurrection of Golden Church

A mountain church The history of the church parallels the history of Golden. Nestled on the western edge of the Ortiz Mountains along the historic Turquoise Trail, Golden had always had someone living there, whether it was Indians or early Spanish settlers. By the early 1800s, though, gold had been discovered in the mountains and the little village began to grow. A church was

needed to serve the thriving community and sometime between 1830 and 1839, San Francisco church was built. Montano says the earliest records indicate 1835, although some historians say it may have been built as early as 1830. But as the mines started coming up empty, Golden started losing its population, becoming a ghost town by 1928. People left, leaving most of the villages

buildings to crumble with time. The church seemed to be sharing that fate until a restoration project taken on by Fray Angelico Chavez in 1960. Another restoration took place in 1976 when a bell tower was added to the church. Making repairs Manuel Montano died in 2002 and was
Continued on page 23

22 The East Mountains & Estancia Valley 2012-13 Visitors Guide

Continued from page 22

buried in the churchs cemetery. When he would visit, Michael Montano would notice how the church was starting to crumble once again before his eyes. A couple of years ago, he decided it was up to him to do something about it. He recruited Zawistowski, who was more than willing to help out. Goldens de facto mayor, Leroy Gonzales, who would let people onto the property to take photos and such, lent a hand with the effort. Michael Montano, though, was the one who was the driving force in fixing up the building. That hasnt come without challenges, though. Montano said he has begged and pleaded for donations to fix up the church. He would badger his boss to help out, and that resulted in enough blocks to build the wall around the cemetery. He worked on friends who could wire the church for electricity. He darkened the doorway of Love Inc., an Albuquerque nonprofit that helps churches with maintenance and restorations, asking for help. Mike is really the driving force behind this, Zawistowski said. A matter of faith One day last year, Montano was alone working on a door at the church when the circular saw he was using slipped and cut into his arm. At first, he said he didnt think the cut was that bad there was no blood. But the blood soon came and he realized he needed help. Being in a remote area, cell phone service is spotty at best; he would have to drive either north to Madrid or

Michael Montano points out some of the repairs he has made to San Francisco de Asis Mission Church in Golden.

south to a relatives house. At first Montano wanted to put his tools away and lock the church, but that idea disappeared as it dawned on him that he was seriously injured. He got into his truck and drove to his relatives house, eventually ending up being airlifted to Albuquerque. For several months he wore a bandage on the twisted purple scar on his upper arm, but he was fortunate that the saw didnt hit a major artery, ligaments or nerves. I think it was Gods way of letting me know that my work isnt done yet, Montano said. I love this church, and I believe in Jesus; my faith drives me to take care of this place.

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adrid has packed an awful lot into its relatively brief existence. In the early 1900s it was a company-owned coal mining town, with a dentist and medical office and even a car dealership with cars that could only be purchased with scrip, company money. It was also home to the first baseball field west of the Mississippi to have electric lights and an annual Christmas display rumored to have inspired Walt Disney to create Disneyland. When the demand for coal decreased in the 1950s and the company went under, Madrid gained overnight ghost town status. Miners and their families had to leave whatever possessions they couldnt fit into their cars when they went in search of new lives, leaving abandoned houses that, eerily, looked inhabited but werent. Years later, the town was reborn, and Madrid has since evolved into a mecca for national and international tourists, New Mexicans in search of a good day trip, art lovers and even movie makers. It has been an interesting journey, which you can learn more about at the Old Coal Town Museum. The museum is not new, but the exhibits have been consolidated, organized, and added to, and it reopened earlier this year in its new format. Lynn McLane is a resident of Madrid and one of the tour guides at the updated museum. As she walks you through the exhibits, her enthusiasm for the town and its history is evident. Its got so much ... Its always had everything you would want in the world, and it really still does. We have an example of every kind of person that you would have in a big city ... it really is a microcosm of the world, and always has been. I like it because its steeped in so much history, McLane said. The tour starts in the Engine House
Continued on page 25

Madrid Has Something For All Seasons

The Old Coal Town Museum recently reopened in Madrid. Visitors can check out the towns mining past and eclectic present.

24 The East Mountains & Estancia Valley 2012-13 Visitors Guide

Continued from page 24

Theatre, with the impressive sight of a giant opening to the elements in the back wall of the stage, with a real train coming through convenient for any play that requires a heroine to be tied to railroad tracks by a villain. From there, the exhibits include electrical and mechanical devices used in the town and in the mines, a display with a history of movies that have been made in the town, pictures of grand Christmas lights and the old baseball field, and a few notes about some Madrid ghost hunts. The museum is located right next to the Mine Shaft Tavern. Call 438-3780 for hours. More than history The funky, biker, hippie town of Madrid truly does seem like its always been there, and always been part of New Mexico. For those who came in when it was a ghost town before the tour buses and biker rallies, and before the streets were lined with cars each weekend its important to give a little credit to the people who came there first. Diana Johnson and her husband, Mel, came from Chicago to open Johnsons of Madrid in 1973, renting it from a coal company for the first two years of its existence, she said. Back then, there was a tavern, a museum, a caretaker and a handful of other renters in town. Both Johnson and her husband are graduates of the Art Institute of Chicago, both were teachers and had summers off, and they came to New Mexico for the weather, she said. It was the summer of the end of the Vietnam War (1975), said Johnson, who turned 76 in February. Half my life has been in this gallery we dont intend to close out. She added that the gallery collection is often eclectic because there is not a set theme. Its a gallery of artists who do the best work, she said. People walk through the gallery and cant believe the quality of the work, she said. Johnsons of Madrid Galleries of Fine & Fiber Art is closed on Tuesdays, except by appointment, and is open on Sunday from noon to 5 p.m. The rest of the week the hours are 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Its at 2843 N.M. 14 in Madrid. Call 471-1054, e-mail djofm@yahoo.com or go to www.CollectorsGuide.com or www. VisitMadridNM. com for more information. Christmas time Driving into town from the south, you are surrounded by piles of earth, some of it black remnants of coal mining from long ago. To the right is the Mine Shaft Tavern, years ago a gathering place for miners, and more recently tourists, to have fun and maybe even a few drinks. Then theres a theater where old-fashioned melodramas are performed. Just past that is a huge train car, looming on a hill over the street, a reminder of the days when the town was bustling enough to need a train stop. When dusk comes, the Christmas lights come on, with a snow covered mountain as the backdrop. There is that wonderful scent in the air of wood burning in fireplaces, along with the coziness that this implies. Christmas is the perfect time of year to build your own memories of Madrid, whether you are interested in the history or the shopping, or just passing through on your way to Santa Fe.

There is plenty to see and do during a visit to Madrid, whether you are looking for spiritual healing or a cold beer.

And, there is the added benefit of crossing some gifts off the to buy list especially when you need something for that hard-to-please person. This is a good place to go when you just need to find a gift, said Vicky Harvey, who took a day trip to Madrid from Albuquerque. Madrid is on N.M. 14, just south of Santa Fe. To find out more, go online to visitmadridnm.com.

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Salt Missions Trails

lthough you cant see the dry salt lakes from N.M. 41, you can almost sense that they lie to the east. On an especially windy day, the salt dust kicks up and you can taste it in the air. The salt lakes were important from the time that humans first made New Mexico home. The Indians of the early pueblos used to make long pilgrimages to the lakes on foot as a religious ceremony. The Tigua Indians did not consider the salt as property of any one tribe but the divine gift of Old Salt Woman (the salt mother) who gave herself freely to the Indians who came to seek salt. When the Spanish arrived, the lakes continued to give its bounty freely. Salt was important to these early people, especially as a preservative, but also for uses in mining. Eventually, though, claims were made to the salt lakes and mining of the mineral went into production, Several companies

made good money in the lakes, but by the 1970s, production of salt had moved elsewhere. What we have left is the Salt Missions Trails, a series of roads used throughout history to move the salt. From the lakes

north and south is now N.M. 41. On the north, the road meets with Old Route 66 and took salt both east and west, but mostly toward Albuquerque in the west. To the south, N.M. 41 meets with U.S. 60, a route to Mountainair, Abo and Belen. At Mountainair, N.M. 337 goes north to Tijeras, where traders took salt to the mountain communities and missions. The Salt Missions Trails were named a New Mexico Scenic and Historic Byway in 1994 and today, visitors can travel the 140 mile loop to visit pueblo missions, old farming towns and the Mother of all roads. And while salt doesnt have the importance it once did, the Salt Missions Trails still offer an unequaled beauty to residents and visitors alike. It offers sweeping plains and forested mountains. Brilliant sunsets and joyous sunrises. And it offers a look at what we used to be and what we are now.

26 The East Mountains & Estancia Valley 2012-13 Visitors Guide

Estancia Valley Relies on Farming and Ranching


County, of which the northern third of the valley lies within, the market value of agricultural products was more than $12 million in 2007, with 68 percent of that coming from crop sales. The top crops in each county? Corn silage and hay. And although it counts for only a fraction of the local crops, Torrance County is the top producer of sod in New Mexico. Nearly 1.8 million acres of land within Torrance County is used for agriculture and the number of farms increased from 461 in 2002 to 561 in 2007. Agriculture education is a way of life in our communities as well, with strong FFA clubs and hundreds of kids involved with 4-H. For more information on agriculture in the Estancia Valley, contact the New Mexico State University Cooperative Extension Service office in Estancia at 505-246-4745 or go online to torranceextension.nmsu.edu.

ince the first settlers arrived in the Estancia Valley, agriculture has been a major part of life. This is no different in 2012 as it was in 1912, the only difference being the diversity of agriculture which is now part of the valley. A century ago, farming was king. New immigrants arrived finding the valley fertile and rain abundant. Dry land farming was a good way to make a living and crops ranged from the mighty pinto bean to wheat and other grains. But in a valley that has no rivers and a few springs, droughts hit hard. By the 1950s, true agricultural diversity became imperative. With that diversity came more livestock, which changed the character of the valley, but kept its agricultural roots alive. Today, agriculture plays a huge role in the economy of the valley. According to the USDA, the market value of Torrance County products sold was more than $40 million in 2007, which

Agriculture plays an important part in the Estancia Valleys economy. According to the USDA, the market value of Torrance County products exceeded $40 million in 2007.

was an 11 percent increase in value from 2002. Of that, about 58 percent of those sales came from livestock. For Santa Fe

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his year will mark the ninth year for the annual East Mountain Fiber Farm and Studio Tour, and visitors are always invited to meet people like Bill and Kathy Herman. The couple have been running Hollywick Farms in Edgewood for three years and is in the third year of participating in the tour. The Hermans have 17 alpacas on their property. The alpaca is a small South American livestock animal that grows a fleece that is soft, warm and hypoallergenic. They really are wonderful and gentle animals and their fleece makes a great yarn, Bill Herman said. The East Mountain Farm and Studio Tour will be held June 2 and 3 this year. The tour includes nine stops in the East Mountains and Estancia Valley. Event participants welcome visitors to their farms to take a look at their wares and build awareness about what they do. And while the Hermans want visitors to get a good idea about yarns and such, they also want to encourage other people to consider raising alpacas. Herman explained that there are only about 280,000 alpacas in the United States, which makes the harvested fleece somewhat rare, and the yarn somewhat of a novelty. Increasing the number of farmers would only help grow the industry, he said. The movement in the U.S. Is to build the herd, Herman said. Right now, there isnt the numbers of alpaca to make much of an impact. For animal lovers on the other end of the farm and ranch spectrum Wendy McGuire and Barbara Mann own and operate Gallina Del Sol Farm in Stanley. They raise heritage breeds of turkeys, pheasants and other birds. Unlike the birds produced for industrial agriculture, heritage breeds are from historical blood-lines and must fit a certain

Tour Offers a Peek at Farms and Studios

The annual East Mountain Fiber Farm and Studio Tour gives visitors a chance to get a close look at how farms operate.

set of criteria, such as natural mating and slow growth-rate. When McGuire and Mann moved to Stanley a decade ago, it wasnt to work with heritage, or any other type of birds, though. We wanted to do heirloom varieties of

plants, McGuire said. After three years we fell in love with Bourbon red turkeys the rest was history. Information and maps are available at Edgewood Yarns and Fibers at 95 N.M. 344 or online at www. hollywickfarms.com.

28 The East Mountains & Estancia Valley 2012-13 Visitors Guide

t seems somewhat appropriate that as the Torrance County Commission in October 1909 was making the decision as to whether the citizens of Estancia should incorporate their settlement into a town that Halleys Comet was in the western sky. When a vote was taken on Feb. 23, 1910 to elect a mayor and board of trustees, the comet was making its preparation to return to the outer reaches of the solar system. The incorporation was, of course, big news in the local newspaper the Estancia News, but its editor, P.A. Speckman also left a little space in the pages to quell concerns about the comets approach to Earth. In the Jan. 28, 1910 issue of the News, Speckman wrote: The rumor that it will or may come in contact with the Earth to the destruction of the latter has been disproven by scientists. The nearest distance it approaches the Earth being given as about forty million miles. If this be true, and we have no reason to doubt it, there is no need to fear the celestial visitor. What Speckman didnt point out was

Estancia Preparing for the Future

that the comets tail did indeed pass over the Earth in May 1910, providing what must have been an amazing sight. Incorporation of the town was a forgone conclusion by the time the citizens of Estancia decided to do it. The town had already been serving as county seat of the newly formed Torrance County since 1905. And according to the reports of people who

lived there at the time, the town was in the midst of a boom. The population of Torrance County in 1910 was estimated at around 10,000 people, with more and more immigrants moving in daily. In 2009 the town celebrated its 100th birthday in the only way a small town in New Mexico can, it threw a party.

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Punkin chunkin is about the fun, but some people take it serious. Several folks from the Estancia Valley have made air cannons designed for only one thing hurling a pumpkin.

Shooting Pumpkins Takes Planning, Determination


Oct. 20 off N.M. 55 just east of Estancia. Dennis designed and help build El Launcho Grande, the first big really, really big pumpkin gun in the valley. Prior to the arrival of his compressed air cannon, there were slings, a trebuchet or two and other types of pumpkin-launchers that Dennis figured he could beat. To work up the design for the valleys first big gun, Dennis actually made a trip to Delaware, where the national competition is held each year. When Dennis came back into town, he met with some of his employees and a few co-conspirators of his own in a restaurant in Moriarty. He drew up some sketches and they went to work, trying to keep the idea under wraps. In October of 1999, the newly made El Launcho Grande made its debut. And the cannon blew the competition away, winning with a recorded distance of 2,912 feet. That was before they extended the barrel to 65 feet. Now retired, Dennis no longer takes part in the competition, but he gets credit for getting the ball rolling. Its that Dennis that got us started, said Mack. Refining the cannon design is also a process that Mack and his sons, Todd and Terry Mack, enjoy. I like thinking something up or taking someones idea and making it a reality, he said. To procure metal, winches, cable and put it together and make it do something. Thats where our enthusiasm comes from.

he Estancia Valley is where Punkin Chunkin dreams are made, and it is home to a field where the annual gourd launch brings glory or shame to an elite group of cannon builders. The great, yearly pumpkin launch has been going on for so long, it seems only natural that there would be a line of giant air cannons lined up at the field outside Estancia each year. Apparently, it takes a lot of time, ingenuity, money and work to make it happen though. Its an expensive hobby, said Raymond Dennis, who helped to spark local interest in the big, gourd-hurling guns about a decade ago. The 2012 Pumpkinfest, sponsored by the Estancia Rotary Club and includes the annual Punkin Chunkin event, will be held

30 The East Mountains & Estancia Valley 2012-13 Visitors Guide

Agriculture to Art: Mountainair Through the Years


By Dorothy Cole
Having risen from its deathbed more than once, Mountainair is well into its second century of writing history. Its past a panorama of colorful characters shaped by tumultuous events none could have foreseen. Spanish missions, sawmills, bean fields, vast ranches, the railroad, boisterous cowboys, notorious poker games, fiestas, rodeos, horse races, terrible snowstorms, droughts, raging dust storms. All occupy a fabled place in Mountainair history. Before Mountainair, there was Monte Alto a loose Spanish settlement. Little farms, houses and a few stores meandered through the trees and hills just south of present day Mountainair. These tough, resilient people had left faraway homes for the promise of adventure and opportunity. They gave aid to the homesteaders who began to arrive in the late 1800s. Together they all marched into a very uncertain future.
Continued on page 34 The Shaffer Hotel in Mountainair links the towns past with its future.

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Homesteaders The early homesteaders struck out by wagon, horseback or on foot, driven by a burning desire to own a piece of land. Some sought adventure and many were farmers who had fled the Civil War and relocated in Texas, Kansas, Oklahoma and Missouri. It was only natural to stake a claim and look for something to farm. The pinto bean, introduced by the Spanish, seemed like the perfect crop. As one old timer put it you could plant your crop, harvest it and spend the money in 90 days. The legendary bean fields were born. By 1902, word was out that the Belen Cutoff would be laid from Belen to Vaughn where it would meet the Southern Pacific and continue eastward to Texico connecting with the Pecos Valley Line. Speculators understood that the summit at Monte Alto would become a major train station. Trains would need pusher engines to make it up the inclines to the east and west. At the summit, they would turn around and return to Belen and Vaughan. John Weldon, J.W. Corbett, Col. E.C. Manning and E.S. Stover, former governor of Kansas, surveyed 120 acres that laid out a business section and several residential subdivisions. Col. Manning proposed the name of Mountainair for the cool breezes that wafted in from the nearby mountains. Papers filed in 1903 incorporated the first town in what would be Torrance County. After the railroad was completed in 1907, immigrant trains brought droves of homesteaders and a crop of entrepreneurs. Sawmills hummed, buildings went up, businesses opened, wagons hauled bean crops to the newly built elevators where they were cleaned, sacked, and shipped. Everyone prospered. It was the end of the rainbow. Depression and drought The drought of the 1930s, while short lived, hit during the Great Depression and dealt a devastating blow to the entire area. Some struck out looking for work, leaving behind land they had struggled to develop and own. Most, with no place to go and no money to leave, had to hang on. They clung to one another, shared what little they had, and somehow survived. By the late 1930s, the rains were back. Farmers had no knowledge of soil and water conservation and simply picked up where they had left off unwittingly starting a chain of events that would overtake and destroy all they had fought to build. However, for now, the boom was back. Harvesting bumper crops, Mountainair brazenly laid claim to the title Pinto Bean Capital of the World. The population swelled to its peak of about 3,000. It boasted car dealerships, a newspaper, dry goods stores, several grocery stores and seven saloons. It was not to be. A 13-year drought set in during the early 1940s. It would eventually deliver the death knell to the expanding bean fields. Great walls of roiling top soil rose day after day, relentless in their destruction. Devastated families hung on, struggling for survival. Many sold their possessions for a few dollars and pulled up roots looking for a better life.
Although its history is based on agriculture, Mountainair is quickly becoming a place for the arts.

Modern times In the late 1950s, the government began a soil conservation program that provided incentive to stop farming and reseed the land in native grasses. It was a time of rebuilding. Ever so slowly, reclaimed land was returned to pastures of grama grass. Survivors of the drought gradually turned to cattle, buying neighboring bean fields, little by little, building the ranches of today. The 60s and 70s were a time of healing. Most of the downtown stores were boarded up. Having survived the near death experience, the community turned inward, cautiously feeling its way to recovery. Gradually the economy began to stabilize, but it was the 1990s before the town began to see new signs of life. A trickle of adventurous artists found its way to Mountainair. Children of the bean fields who left to find their fortunes, now retired, moved back to enjoy more prosperous times and reminisce with old friends, swapping yarns, spinning tales, blending memory upon memory into a rich body of bean field lore. Come visit and experience the charm. Better yet, move here and experience the charm. As pioneer A. B. McKinley put it This is not paradise, but its not a bad place to live. For more information, go to www.DiscoverMountainairNM. com.

34 The East Mountains & Estancia Valley 2012-13 Visitors Guide

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ublic art is something people in large cities take for granted, but in small towns, it is something residents covet. Because of the cost of public art projects, many smaller municipalities cant afford to install works of outdoor art. That is unless a town has an active group of artists who dedicate their talents and time. In that, the town of Mountainair is fortunate. The Manzano Mountain Art Council installed one if its latest public art piece on the side of the Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument Visitor Center in Mountainair. Where once was a blank brown wall now holds a mural of 18 painted panels and 14 mosaic pottery pieces described by project director Toms Wolff as a modern interpretation of ancient art. We kind of got in to the spirit of what the ancient people would do, Wolff said. It was very collaborative, with everyone involved having a voice. The 36-foot mural is the fifth project completed by artists in the council, and probably its most extensive. Other projects include mosaic tile pieces at the Mountainair library, senior center, B Street Market and the Alpine Alley coffee house. The mural itself took the work of 12 core artists with another 10 or so helping out, said Celeste Simon, the principal artist on the project. Simon said she had come up with a concept, but that others would add their ideas. That step took about two months, she said. We molded it all together so that everyones ideas were included, Simon said. The artists then spent another two months or so putting the work together. The panels are concrete wall board painted with several layers of paint made to withstand the harsh New Mexico sun and giving the panels a look of a copper patina. Designs were then painted on the panels and sealed with a clear sealant. Its definitely made to withstand the elements, Simon said. The $6,300 cost of the mural was funded through the Western National Parks Association, the Manzano Mountain Art Council, New Mexico Arts and the National Endowment for the Arts. In addition to Wolff and Simon, other artists working on the project included Addie Draper, Kathy Baur, Ann Adams, Meghann Dallin, Kathy Davies, Donna Deiner, Barbara Dinovo, Sandy Foltzer, Wana Beth Fox, Anna Hopping, Laura Kayser, Liz Morgan, Karen Smith, Anita Soluna and Lore Wills. Wolff said the idea behind the mural, and the others done in Mountainair, is simple to make the town look better. This is community development, Wolff said. Everyone wants to see Mountainair look beautiful. For more information on the Manzano Mountain Art Council, visit its website at www.manzanomountainartcouncil.org.

Mountainair Mosaic

The Manzano Mountain Art Council has created and installed several tile mosaic pieces around the community, including this one at the town library.

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hether you want to go to the geographical center of New Mexico or the geometrical center of the state, you wont have to leave the Estancia Valley. The geographical center refers to the spot where, if New Mexico were a plate, you could balance it on your finger. That spot is about 12 miles southwest of Willard and there isnt much there except a nice view. If you go to the geometric center the spot you would be if you drew an X on a map of our state youd find the spot marked with a flag pole flying the New Mexican flag as well as a banner for the 7 Up 7 Down Ranch. Ranch owner Leroy Humphries was eyeballing a map years ago when he thought it looked like the dot where those lines cross was on his land. Recently, he asked John Kosovich of the U.S. Geological Survey for some technical help and, sure enough, the results of a nine-page report put that unofficial bulls-eye on a little knoll on his ranch, which has been in his family since before New Mexico was a state. The spot is easy to find; from Willard go south on N.M. 42. Between miles 21 and 22, there is a green metal road sign that announces Cntr of NM Trail. Turn down the road, and look for the flag pole off to the right. There is a road up to the ranch house, but Humphries said he prefers if visitors walk on foot the 100 yards or so to the marker. Once there, you can take a rest on a bench and sign the guest book stashed in a watertight box. Humphries is a garrulous 69-year-old who wears a big silver belt buckle. He isnt making a claim that his center spot is more accurate or better, only different. Each one has its own validity, he said. I cant say which one is right. Back when Humphries grandfather

Its Not the Middle of Nowhere

The geometric center of New Mexico is located south of Willard on N.M. 42.

traveled to this spot from Kansas, he homesteaded 320 acres and grew pinto beans. Humphries raises black Angus cattle and, over time, he has managed to buy back his grandfathers homestead and adjoining land and expand the ranch to around 20,000 acres. Humphries is a physicist with a Ph.D., and he likes things just so. He is also extremely eager to share his geometrical gift with anyone who feels moved to visit the heart of New Mexico. Id like people to be able to just sit and contemplate the center of New Mexico, he tells me. The spot is open to anyone who wants to visit. Theres no charge, no need to plan. All Humphries asks is that you close the gate behind you and dont litter. Special thanks to Leslie Linthicum of the Albuquerque Journal for her contribution to this story.

Leroy Humphries kneels at the center of New Mexico located on his 7 Up 7 Down Ranch.

36 The East Mountains & Estancia Valley 2012-13 Visitors Guide

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hings are looking up in the Estancia Valley and East Mountains. That is, it has gotten better for those of use who are keen on maintaining the Western lifestyle, if this summers projected increase in rodeo activity in our area is any indication. In recent years, local rodeo clubs, some of which of have been in existence for 47 years, found it difficult to even meet the down payment for the most basic of rough stock required to put on a ranch-style rodeo. But this year, for example, the Escobosa Riders Club summer rodeos are back after a one-season respite, and Moriartys Heritage Arena, with a new roof over the bleachers now in place for the spectators comfort, has managed to schedule a slew of new competitions. Were trying to bring people into Moriarty, said Eric Pohl, the chairman of the City Councils advisory board for the Moriarty Heritage Rodeo Arena and Events Facility. The more people that come to our Heritage Arena events, the more money. Its good for our economy. Theres been a lot of work done on the arena. To get to the venue from Interstate 40, drive south on N.M. 41 (Howard Cavasos Boulevard), go past the light at Martinez Road, and then at the sign with the arrow pointing east to the rodeo grounds, turn left on to Heritage Lane. The arena is on the right (or south) side of Heritage Lane. The Bernalillo County 4H Rodeo, an open junior competition, is even coming to Moriarty on Aug. 4, starting at 8 a.m. This is unusual because Moriarty is in Torrance County. For the first time in 54 years, the Bernalillo County 4H Rodeo wont be in Tingley Coliseum, said Cassidy Cordova of New Mexico State Universitys Bernalillo County Extension Office in Albuquerque. Cordova said Expo New Mexico, at which Tingley is located in Albuquerque, could not accommodate their rodeo this year because Edgewoods LeighAnn Scribner bursts out of the chute during the breakaway it couldnt get the dirt into the arena between competition of the New Mexico High School Rodeo Associations Directors Continued on page 38 Rodeo at Moriartys Heritage Arena on Oct. 9, 2011.

Rodeo Adds Spice to Life in the Valley and Mountains

2012-13 Visitors Guide The East Mountains & Estancia Valley 37

Continued from page 37 Tingleys other events in time. We still wanted to be close enough where we didnt have to drive too far, and we wanted it to still be near the center of the state so that a lot of people from around the state will still come, Cordova said. And Moriarty has been working with us real well, and they gave us a good deal. Weve also been working with the Torrance County Extension Office. Were hoping that it will be very successful. Prospective entrants can call the Bernalillo County Extension Office at 2431386, or Shawnee Pedroncelli, the rodeos secretary, at 250-0241. For info, go to the website at bernalilloextension.nmsu.edu (cq-no www or @) and click on the youth rodeo button. One of the more intriguing of the new Heritage events is the Moriarty FFA Almuni Team Roping series, which is envisioned as a fundraiser to support the Moriarty-Edgwood School Districts FFA programs. The dates are June 23, July 14, Aug. 25, Sept. 15 and Oct. 20. The divisions will all be by their roping level of experience, regardless of age, said Lilissa Williams, vice president of Moriarty FFA Alumni. It will be by their ranking in their skills. For info, call Williams at 249-0711. Filling Heritages premier Independence Day holiday-period slot will be the Ron Wiseman Rodeos on July 7-8. I started it in 1983. Its been like 30 years, said Ron Wiseman of the founding of his rodeo company, headquartered in Clayton. The rodeos will be for adults and juniors, and we will have a lot of kids events. Well have bull riding, team roping, chute doggin. It will be a fullfledged rodeo. Its really two rodeos, one on Saturday and one on Sunday. Wiseman said entrants can sign up on the day of the rodeo, but if they register with him early by calling 575-374-9833 they can avoid paying the gate fee. For spectators, the cost will be $2 per person or $5 a carload. For info, see the website at www.wisemanrodeo.com. Wendy Martinez, the secretary of the Heritage advisory board, said on April 26 that the arena still had an open date the

Two-year-old Izaac Callahan is sitting pretty on his Shetland during the lead-line event of the Old Timers Day Rodeo at the Torrance County Fairgrounds in Estancia.

weekend of Oct. 12-14, which is during the Pinto Bean Fiesta. She said there is a possibility the New Mexico High School Rodeo Association Directors Rodeo will be slotted there, like it was in 2011. The Estancia Valley Rodeo Associations summer youth series, which was held at Heritage Arena the last three years, is in limbo. No dates or venues had been set , according to Jeff Herndon, the EVRA president. Some of the other 2012 rodeo events

scheduled for elsewhere in the local area include: June 10 and 24, and July 8 and 22, all at 8 a.m. last four of the six junior rodeos of the Mountainair Gymkhana Rodeo series at Mountainairs J.P. Helms Rodeo Grounds. For info, call Denise Smythe, the MGR secretary, at 384-6044; or Lonnie Greene, the organizations president, at 847-0535. June 16, 9 a.m., and June 17, 8 a.m.
Continued on page 39

38 The East Mountains & Estancia Valley 2012-13 Visitors Guide

Continued from page 38 New Mexico Junior Rodeo Association Rodeo in Mountainair. For info, call Red Kingston at 859-8413, or go to www.nmjra.net. June 22 and 23, 7 p.m. both days Con Ganas Bull Riding Challenge at Torrance County Fairgrounds in Estancia. Call Antonio Ortiz at 705-4025 for info. Ortiz said his outfit might also be putting on a bull-riding event at Heritage Arena later in the year. June 24, 1 p.m. Bar-Diamond-S Arena Jackpot Bull Riding in Yrisarri. For info, call 281-8860. July 28, 9 a.m. Old Timers Day Rodeo at Torrance County Fairgrounds. Call Jada Shiver, rodeo superintendent, at 220-8555. July 1, Aug. 5, Sept. 2, all at 1 p.m. Escobosa Riders Club Rodeos. Call Victor Herrera, club president, at 453-3430 or 8665484. July 8, Aug. 12 and Sept. 9, all at 1 p.m. Chilili Rodeo Club ranch-style rodeos. July 29, 1 p.m. Chilili Bull-A-Rama. Call Santos Garcia, Chilili Rodeo Club president, at 269-4442 for info on all of the Chilili Land Grants rodeos. Aug. 17, 10 a.m. Torrance County Fair Junior Rodeo. Call Shiver, who is also the new fair board president, at 220-8555. Continuing June through November Multiple events at Rockin Horse Ranch Arenas indoor venue, north of Moriarty. They include New Mexico Cutting Horse Association competitions, the RHR Barrel Racing series with its finals on Nov. 10-11, New Mexico Paint Horse Association shows, and the National Barrel Horse Association state finals on Oct. 12-14. See www.rockinhorseranch. org.

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xploring the magnificent pueblo ruins and impressive stone mission churches of the Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument is a highlight of any tour of the Estancia Valley. The ruins at Quarai, Abo and Gran Quivira have stood abandoned for more than three centuries. Each site is administered by the National Park Service as a separate unit of the Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument, which was declared a national monument in 1909.

Ancient Ruins Tell Haunting Stories of the Past

History The roots of the Salinas Pueblos trace back centuries to two ancient Southwestern cultures that overlapped in the Salinas Valley. Until the 10th century, the Mogollon culture was dominant. Inhabitants lived in pit houses and later in adobe-plastered pole dwellings. By the late 1100s, Anasazi cultural influence was apparent in the contiguous stone and adobe homes. Between 1100 and 1500, the area became one of the most populous Pueblo trade centers, located astride major trade routes. An estimated 10,000 people inhabited the area by the 1600s. They traded valuable salt from the Las Salinas Valley, and maize, pinon nuts, beans, squash and cotton goods from the Rio Grande Villages, for buffalo meat, hides, flints and shells from the Plains Indians to the East. In 1598, Juan de Oate accepted formal submission to the Spanish king from the areas Indians. Relations with the Indians soured when soldiers attempted to collect tribute to the crown; Philip II, charged by the pope with Christianizing the natives, maintained the colony. With insufficient natural riches, the governors relied on profits from the sale of slaves (from raids on Plains tribes) and from goods produced by Indian labor. Although the Franciscans tried to lighten

Abo, part of the Salinas Pueblo Missions, was built in the 1300s. When it was built, it was part of a major trade route.

Info

Quarai The smallest of the three monuments, Quarai dates back to about 1300. Its early Indian dwellers were farmers and traders. The village consisted of compact apartment the burden on the Indians, they placed complexes built around kivas. Between heavy demands on the pueblos to support 1626 and 1628, Fray Juan Gutierrez arrived the missions. and began the conversion of this pueblos The Spanish colonization, epidemics of European diseases, strong influences Continued on page 41 from the Zuni and deteriorating relations

Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument was originally Gran Quivira National Monument, established 1909. For the latest information about what is coming up at Salinas Pueblo Missions National Monument, please check the events calendar online at www.nps.gov/sapu.

with the Apaches radically altered pueblo life. Drought and widespread famine in the 1660s and 1670s killed 450 people at Gran Quivira alone. By the late 1670s, the Salinas villages were deserted. The pueblos and their missions seem to have been abandoned very suddenly, causing them to be known as the cities that died of fear.

40 The East Mountains & Estancia Valley 2012-13 Visitors Guide

Continued from page 40

600 inhabitants in earnest. The church of La Purisima Conception de Cuarar (now Quarai) was built by pueblo women and children around 1630. At the village of Punta del Agua (point of water, for its natural spring), a road leads a mile west to Quarai. The mission ruins, with red sandstone walls 5 feet thick and 40 feet high, are the most beautiful in the monument a breathtaking sight amid cottonwoods and the Manzano Mountain Wilderness. Abo Located on a pass opening into the Rio Grande Valley, Abo was a major trading center. Mogollon pit-house builders congregated in Abo around 1159; their gray paste pottery dominated until it was replaced, around 1350, by the glazed painted pottery of the Anasazi. The colorful Abo ruins are on U.S. 60, nine miles west of Mountainair. Larger than Quarai, with about 800 inhabitants, this ruin also dates to the 1300s. Fray Francisco Fonte arriving in the 1620s, built a small church, then began work in the surrounding pueblos: Tenabo,

The ruins at Gran Quivara was an important trade center before the Spanish arrived in New Mexico.

Tabira and Las Humanas. Fray Francisco de Acevedo, arriving in 1629, enlarged the church of San Gregorio de Abo to reflect its importance as missionary headquarters. The church (completed in 1651) employs buttresses, making it one of the few surviving examples of medieval architecture in the United States. Gran Quivira Gran Quivira, the Pueblo de las Humanas, was an important trade center for many years. It is the most extensive pueblo and mission ruins in the monu-

ment. The early pueblos (1200-1400) were concentric circles with excellent masonry and mortar work. The later pueblo (15501670) was built on top of the earlier rooms; its rock work and masonry are decidedly inferior. Fray Letrado, the first resident priest, stayed only two years in this pueblo of 1,500, establishing the Chapel of San Isidro. The next resident missionary, Fray Diego de Santander, did not arrive until 1659, so Gran Quivira was not under as much direct Spanish control as Abo and Quarai. His church, the mission of San Buenaventura, was never completed. The sprawling gray limestone ruins are 26 miles south of Mountainair on N.M. 55. Headquarters Monument headquarters, on U.S. 60 in Mountainair, serves as the information center, museum and bookstore. Staffed visitor centers at all three ruins sites have trail maps, books, displays, restrooms (with some handicapped facilities) and picnic areas. The headquarters and ruins are open daily except Christmas and New Years Day.

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St. Elizabeth St. Elizabeth Ann Seton 85 Ann Seton Hwy. 344, Edgewood
85 Hwy. 344, Edgewood Mass Sunday 8 am & Mass Sunday 8 am & 5:30 pm 5:30 pm

Our Lady of Our Lady of Mount Carmel Mount Carmel 215 Girard, Moriarty
215 Saturday 5:30 pm Mass Girard, Moriarty Mass Sunday 10 am pm & Saturday 5:30 & Sunday 10 am

Please call the Parish Office at 832-6655 for more information Please call the Parish Office at 832-6655 for more information and the Times of Reconciliation. and the Times of Reconciliation. The Parish Office is located at 1400 Third Street South, Moriarty The Parish Officeof Third Street South andStreet South, Moriarty (Corner is located at 1400 Third Linden Ave.)

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drive around the Fourth of July loop in the Manzano Mountains to watch the fall leaves change colors is a staple of many central New Mexican lives. Another tradition thousands of visitors to the area now take part in is a visit to the Manzano Mountain Retreat and Apple Ranch. Randy Simmons and his wife, Kim, have managed the retreat, which is owned by Albuquerque businessman Scott Garrett, since 1991. For more than 35 years, Manzano Mountain Retreat has been a working apple ranch producing more than 4,000 bushels of apples and 3,000 gallons of cider annually. The ranch is one of New Mexicos largest apple producers, with more than 30 varieties. A country store sits on the property with 15 acres of orchard, which opens today with customers able to visit through November, if all goes well. Despite a few setbacks in the past couple of years, this season is looking good. In the past, the ranch has attracted thousands of guests on the weekends, buying up to 2,500 bushels of apples and up to 3,000 gallons of cider in a season, Simmons said. Apples are picked by a crew of five daily, with the best looking apples going into the store, with the slightly bruised going to the cider press. Prices usually start at $1.50 per pound, and cider sits at $2 for a pint, $5 for a half-gallon, and a gallon for $9. The ranch grows 37 varieties of apples, some of which are pretty rare and fly off the shelves, including Arkansas Blacks, Honey Crisp and Sun Crisp. These taste so much better than anything youll find in any regular store, Simmons said. We dont spray ours with tons of chemicals so they look good. They might look kind of ugly, but they taste amazing. Sunshine is the key.

Golden, Crisp and Delicious

Fall is the time workers harvest apples at the Manzano Mountain Retreat and Apple Ranch.

The ranch also boasts some of the best-tasting cider. The taste changes as the apples ripen and get sweeter, Simmons said. The cider is made once a week then frozen to preserve the shelf life of the juice, which tends to go bad within three weeks of thawing. The equipment and cider is inspected annually by the New Mexico Department of Health. A variety of factors affect the productivity of a crop, including pests like gophers and squirrels, frost, hail and more. The pickers work quickly to get as many apples

off the trees as possible while theyre ripe. Two seasons ago, hail took out a number of apples. Simmons said its part of the gamble of farming in New Mexico. Thats mother nature for you, he said. Its always a guessing game. The retreat is located off of N.M. 337 south of Chilili and is well marked with signs. Check out www.manzanoretreat.com/ apples.html for more information including ripening schedules to find your favorite apple.

42 The East Mountains & Estancia Valley 2012-13 Visitors Guide

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Traditional matachines celebrate Our Lady of Guadalupe in the kick off of annual fiestas in the summer.

Mountain Villages Keep Tradition Alive

he old Spanish land grant villages of Chilili, Tajique, Torreon and Manzano live on, but 17th-century Indian Pueblos and mission churches at Chilili and Tajique have vanished. Chilili: A settlement 20 miles south of Tijeras in the east Manzano Mountain foothills is one of the oldest place names in New Mexico. This Hispanic settlement was established in 1841 as a land grant. Escobosa: A settlement 16 miles south of Tijeras in the Manzano Mountain foothills. The name refers to grass residents used to make brooms. Manzano: This small

Hispanic village takes its name from apples, (Spanish, manzanas). The settlement became a Spanish land grant in 1829. Punta de Agua: The community near Mountainair took its name from point of water from a spring when it was settled after 1850. Tajique: This was the first of several Spanish settlements in the Manzano Mountain foothills. It was abandoned due to Indian raids but resettled as a land grant in 1834. Torreon: Settlement established on the site of an Indian pueblo. The village received a land grant in 1841.

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he leaves tell the story: Either the Great Bear has been killed, or nighttime temperatures have approached freezing in the Manzano and Sandia mountain ranges, painting their trees for fall. American Indian lore says some leaves turn red when celestial hunters kill the Great Bear and its blood drips from the sky. The bears fat, splattering from the kettle cooking the meat, turns other leaves yellow. Scientists say chemical processes in the trees, combined with just the right weather conditions, bring on the transformation. Whichever you believe, both cause and effect are miraculous and well worth a day of hiking, whether its fall or not. Forest rangers and longtime residents say the best places to see fall foliage in the East Mountains are on trails near the Fourth of July Canyon campground in the Manzano Mountains. (Specifically, the Fourth of July Canyon Trail, Albuquerque Trail, Spring Loop and Crimson Maple Trail are recommended.) Along the crest of the Sandias, as well as on trails such as 10K and Ellis. Their trailheads are marked with signs along N.M. 536, the road to the crest. Each mountain range is its own box of crayons. The Manzanos are famous for the fiery orange and crimson canopies of the bigtooth maples, not found in the Sandias. The Manzanos officially start west of Chilili and stretch 20 miles south to Mountainair. Lower, rounded peaks called the Manzanitas, just south of Tijeras Canyon, are mostly within the boundaries of Kirtland Air Force Base and Isleta Pueblo. Camping is allowed in the Manzanos at Fourth of July, Bosque Trail Head, along FR 55 south of Fourth of July and Red Canyon. Dispersed camping is also permitted in areas not closed for emergency fire

Manzano Mountains Full of Possibilities

The Manzano Mountains offer lots of opportunities to watch and photograph birds.

Info

For information about open trails contact the Mountainair Ranger District located in Mountainair. Call 847-2990 for details or go online to www.fs.fed.us/r3/cibola/

rehabilitation. Manzano State Park is also open for camping. Three major fires raged through the Manzanos in 2008, burning 25,000 acres of forest. As a result, many trails and campgrounds were under full or partial closings. The Ranger District is working hard to re-open as many trails as possible so its best to contact the Mountainair Ranger District before setting out. Although there are plenty of similarities between the Sandias and Manzanos, the

Manzanos flora is more varied and exotic than that of the Sandias; the trails leading up to the long, flat Manzano ridgeline tend to be shorter and gentler than comparable routes in the Sandias; and once youre on a Manzano trail, more often than not you will find you have the whole mountain to yourself. Youre unlikely to find any wild apple trees growing along the trails in the Manzanos, but the name manzano comes from the Spanish word for apple. At their peak, the colors are so vivid that a hiker could almost hear the pop and sizzle of a fireworks display, for which Fourth of July is surely named. Manzano hikes More than a dozen excellent trails climb
Continued on page 45

44 The East Mountains & Estancia Valley 2012-13 Visitors Guide

Continued from page 44

from both sides of the Manzano Mountain range and connect with the Crest Trail. Three good ones to try are Fourth of July Canyon, Albuqerque Trail in the Northern Manzanos, which ties into 4th of July Trail, and the Comanche Trail on the west side. Most people associate 4th of July Canyon with Forest Road 55, the popular fall-color driving loop. But three excellent short trails start on the road and end at the Crest Trail. The middle trail is Bosque Trail 174. This 2.2-mile route climbs to verdant meadows near 9,549-foot North Bosque Peak via a series of gentle switchbacks. In the spring Fourth of July Canyon is awash in new foliage, making it a great place to seek out wildflowers. You might even spot a patch of snow still lingering in the shadows. The Maple Trees were not burned in the fires, so the vibrant colors will return in full force. If youre looking for a challenging workout and stunning views, the 5.5-mile trip up Pine Shadow Trail to Manzano Peak the highest in the range is the way to go. The trail was closed due to fire, but trail crews worked every week to re-open the trail this summer. You start in cholla- and pinon-covered flats below the ranges southern tip, then ascend a rocky, bone-dry ridge all the way to the peak. Hardy desert flora reaches far up the mountainside, and if you hike in the late spring youll see numerous cactus and agave blooms. But on top is the true reward: one of the best 360-degree panoramic views in the state. For a bit of an easier trail, Trail Canyon Trail, which leads up to the Crest trail, is a little lower in elevation, but still contains beautiful views.

Fall in the Manzano Mountains offer vast canopies of multicolored flora.

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ingle Action Shooting Society members are living in a fantasy world. Its a world that will open to the public for the final days of SASSs End of Trail, the societys largest shooting competition. Modeled after a cowboy party, what could have been the celebration at the end of a cattle drive in the late 1800s, End of Trail also is a big celebration of the Old West that is going on outside of Edgewood. This year will mark the 31st anniversary of End of Trail. It marks a chance to see live gun twirling, knife throwing, Western shootout reenactments and some live buffalo that wander Founders Ranch. The ranch is a sprawling 480-acre property whose most prominent features are its clapboard storefronts and the gun-toting cowboys committed to the fantasy. Getting there takes a short drive down a hilly, rural road outside of Edgewood, a few turns and a descent into a bowl that shuts out the modern world for more than 1,000 participants, most of them in authentic Western gear from the late 1800s and early 1900s. Stepping into another world is certainly part of the draw for Travis Boggus of Moriarty. Every week or two, Boggus slings guns and knocks down targets, pitting his fast draw against the abilities of others in timed shooting matches. Boggus said he also steps into the character of Boggus Deal, a man from the Wild West who likes to dress in fine clothes and has been known to play cards on occasion. Boggus has been a cowboy shooter for 6 years, he said, and is still building up his alter-ego. I get all dressed up, he said. Its a fantasy game that we play. Its a great way to get out of the daily grind. He also has a working cowboy costume something simple for most of the shoot-

The Closest Youll Get to the Old West ...

PHOTOS COURTESY OF SASS

Part of the fun for End of Trail is the competitions. Marksmen, and markswomen, attired in traditional garb take turns going after targets, sometimes from the top of a horse.

some, though. Im more about the shooting, he said. The Single Action Shooting Society will Visitors also can get a taste of the sport hold its annual End of Trail event from that Boggus is so fond of at the event. There will be a few cowboy action June 22 and 23 at Founders Ranch. guns, the kind where you have to thumb The event will feature competitors back the hammer, on display for visitors to from all over the world. crack off a shot or two. They can also try The public is invited to attend. their hand at another attraction an oldCost is $8 with children under age 12 fashioned shooting gallery from the 1950s, free. complete with .22 rifle and moving lead For directions to Founders Ranch or ducks and other targets. more information, call 877-411-SASS One of the attractions for local peoor go online to www.sassnet.com. ple, even those who dont shoot, is sure to be the Wild West shows, put on by ing matches or a buffalo chip toss, one of Dr Bucks Wild West Arena Show and the shooting societys more colorful side Gabby Hays Wild West Show. But thats events but he seems to favor his fancy, not all thats available for entertainment. Victorian gambler duds and top hat. Continued on page 47 His costuming is mild compared with

Info Box

46 The East Mountains & Estancia Valley 2012-13 Visitors Guide

Continued from page 46

Something will always be going on during End of Trail, whether its Indian dancers, a workshop in gun spinning, cowgirl singer Ginny Mac or a trick roping workshop. Through the day, visitors can also ride a stagecoach drawn by four horses; they can pet the ranchs two black-and-white baby longhorns named Skunky and Bandit; or the kids can ride a full-grown longhorn. There also will also be trick rope work, gun twirlers, country and western singers, and Dutch oven cooking demonstrations. Its one of the largest events of its kind, according to Tom Hewitt, a vendor in past years. Theres lots of entertainment. This is the granddaddy cowboy shoot, Hewitt said. SASS represents more than just a way to make a living for Hewitt, he said. For him, the tribute SASS pays to the West of 100 years past also is about something deeper: Its about the way people behave toward each other. Its a time when people didnt need a lawyer to strike a bargain, but could count on a persons word, he said. We shake hands and you could count on the fact that Id do it, he said. People
Torrance County Project Office
205 9th Street P.O. Box 48 Estancia, NM 87016

SASSs slogan for End of Trail is The closest youll get to the Old West short of a time machine and the set up at Founders Ranch certainly confirms that. opened doors for women. We really 217 and go south. Turn east on Juan Tomas believe in that sort of thing. ... We try and Road and go to Barton Road, then follow relive that history now. the signs. For more information about The event will be held at Founders events, fees and more, go to www. sassnet. Ranch, which is southwest of Edgewood. com or call Misty Misty Moonshine To get there, take Old Route 66 to N.M. Miller at 843-1320.

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205 9th PLEASE FEELBoxStreet TO CALLPhone: 505-246-4780CAN HELP! FREE US... WE P.O. 48 Fax: 505-384-3110 Estancia, NM 87016 Emergency CallHours: M-Thurs 7:30am-5:30pm 911 PROGRAMS Domestic Violence Crisis Line 505-705-0925 NMPCA Family Services Program Torrance County DomesticMedicaid enrollment/application assistance Violence 505-246-4781 Torrance County Domestic Violence Program (505-246-4781) Torrance County Project Officeapplication enrollments SCI Phone: 505-246-4780 Domestic Violence Prevention Education

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or people all around the world, the name Route 66 may conjure up images of the open road, exotic adventures across the country, or an idyllic era long since gone. Remove the moniker, and the very identity of the road is compromised and that in itself can be devastating to the unique communities that have traditionally relied on this road as the route to their success. Such is the worry of Fred Rael, owner of the Sedillo Hill Travel Center, which is located directly on the Mother Road. Several years ago, the state changed the official name of the portion of Route 66 that stretches east from the Rio Puerco through Moriarty. The name change, to N.M. 333, has led to unintended negative consequences, Rael said; travelers hoping to visit historic Route 66 inadvertently bypass the road because it is no longer listed by its traditional name on the maps. Rael, however, is working at getting the name changed back to Route 66. The road has brown road signs every so often identifying the route, but that isnt enough for Rael he has a connection to the road beyond his business. He and his wife, Virginia, both have an established ancestry in the East Mountain area that is closely connected to the rich history of old 66. Freds great-uncle owned and operated one of the first gas stations in the area, as well as a dance hall where many couples tied the knot. Furthermore, Virginias family members used Old Route 66 to access their farmlands from Albuquerque because there were no other roads at the time. Virginia said that when she was young, she and her father used to travel to their land by horse and buggy. Having a car was a big deal back then, she said. The Raels said their favorite aspect of running a business on Historic Route 66

Many Love the Mother Road


Getting Around
EDGEWOOD The 1937 rerouting of Route 66 (to east-west here) caused the growth of areas like Edgewood, which became New Mexicos newest incorporated town in 1999. Business along 66, a quarter-mile south of I-40, and N.M. 344 include a supermarket, drug store, restaurants, a 100-unit RV park, local crafts and a car dealership. North of the freeway, a Walmart Superstore was built several years ago. This community 20 miles east of Albuquerque was known as Barton and Venus. It is located at the edge of wooded hills, where the grassy plains to the east meet the forested Sandia Mountains to the west. Theyre not old enough to have driven that highway, or have gone on a family trip on it, so it doesnt have the emotional connection, said Cyndie Tidwell. Tidwell is a contractor hired by the association to complete an update of a corridor management and economic revitalization plan originally developed in 1992. The updated plan will be used as a foundation for helping determine which projects to seek funding for, according to association literature. Up until the early 1970s, the only way to drive through New Mexico from east to west was on Route 66. Now the road in many places of its 2,448mile journey from Chicago to Southern California has disappeared, either through the encroachment of nature or through the efforts of road grading machines building an interstate freeway. The remnants of the Mother Road in the Estancia Valley and East Mountains remain.

A brown highway sign reminds drivers they are traveling on historic Route 66. Other reminders of the roads heyday are found in the crumbling roadside attractions that once enticed travelers to pull over.

is seeing the elderly people who used to travel this road come back 40, 50, or 60 years later because they went through here on their honeymoon, or on a family vacation, according to Fred. Rael isnt alone in his support of Route 66 and its importance to tourism. The New Mexico Route 66 Association is working to renew and revitalize the old Mother Road through New Mexico. There will come a day when no one remembers those family trips anymore.

48 The East Mountains & Estancia Valley 2012-13 Visitors Guide

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ildlife West Nature Park is a high-desert animal preserve and music hot spot along Route 66 in Edgewood. Its the central New Mexico home of rescued native wildlife, a venue for summer music festivals and 122 acres of accessible nature trails that lead visitors on a fun and educational adventure. Twenty-four species of wildlife and raptors call Wildlife West Nature Park their home cougars, wolves, a black bear, fox, pronghorn, javelina, hawks and more. They all have names and they all have stories. Hobo, an American kestrel, was found living with a homeless man; Forrest, a grey fox, lost his parents and was found in a boxcar along railroad tracks in southern New Mexico. Other animals that have joined the Wildlife West family include a grey fox, two crested caracaras (Mexicos national bird seen occasionally in New Mexico), a bear and a coati, which is a relative of the raccoon and is sometimes known as a snookum bear. One of the biggest draws for the park is its Mexican gray wolves, said Roger Alink, who founded the park. Were dedicated to helping the wolves, Alink said. The park has a total of five wolves, all of them from the same litter. The three brothers, also known as the Three Amigos, all live in one habitat

Wildlife West In Tune With Nature


Wildlife West Nature Park
WHEN: Daily hours 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. during daylight-saving season; noon to 4 p.m. during winter. WHERE: Edgewood, I-40 Exit 187. On the north side of the interstate, take the frontage road about a mile west to the park entrance. HOW MUCH: Self-guided tours are $7 adults, $6 seniors, $4 students and seniors, free to children under 5. INFORMATION: www. wildlifewest.org or call 281-7655.

also has couple of big cougars. Animals are the main attraction at the park, but it also plays host to many other activities. In addition to the sometimes regal, mostly furry and often entertaining creatures at Wildlife West, the park hosts a regular calendar of events including sunset barbecue chuckwagon dinners, western music concerts, bluegrass festiLions, tigers and bears; oh my! OK, so Wildlife West Nature vals, melodrama and play perPark doesnt have any tigers, but there is still plenty to see and formances, junior zookeeper do without making Dorothy surrender. day camps, hayrides, disk golf course and more. All events and their sisters are in a habitat friendly coyote, from an obser- take place at the parks large next door. Visitors can view vation deck. all-weather amphitheater or in both habitats, as well as the If you are more into the habitat of the parks extremely feline than the canine, the park Continued on page 51

50 The East Mountains & Estancia Valley 2012-13 Visitors Guide

Continued from page 50

Wildlife West Nature Park hosts chuckwagon dinners every weekend from June to September

Taste the Old West When the Sun Goes Down


Chuckwagon dinners are a western tradition, according to Roger Alink, founder of Wildlife West Nature Park. He said the tradition goes back to the final meal of the day for cattle drivers. Chuckwagon is typically a barbecue mean feast kind of thing, Alink said. Out on the prairie, they had wagons with a chuckbox where Cookie kept flour and stuff to prepare the meal. The wagons would circle, a fire was built, a cow butchered and cowboy songs were sung before dinner was served. Wildlife West is keeping a version of that tradition alive with its chuckwagon dinners, where barbecue beef, chicken, baked potatoes, beans, apple sauce, dinner roll, coffee, lemonade, water, and cookies are all part of the menu. Vegetarian options are also available. There is also usually a falcon flight or wildlife presentation before dinner and the teenagers who work at the park through a Youth Conservation Corps grant put on a puppet show with animal puppets. The show during the chuckwagon dinners is live western or bluegrass music and they often feature Syd Masters and the Swing Riders If you come at 5:30 its nonstop entertainment until 9 p.m., Alink said. For 2012, the chuckwagon dinner runs 7-9 p.m. every Saturday night from June 16 through Sept. 1 and includes a foot-stomping slate of live western music performances. Ticket prices for adults are $20 each; seniors, $19; children ages 5-11, $10; and kids under 5 are free. The park can serve 500 people and the dinners are catered, so reservations are required by 2 p.m. the day of the dinner. Prices include admission to the wildlife park and hayrides. Contact the park at 281-7655 or e-mail info@wildlifewest.org for more information.

the restored western barn. Winter, summer, spring or fall, Wildlife West Nature Park changes with the seasons, but remains beautiful year round with picnic areas, free dry camping and the covered amphitheater available for family events and company parties. Here are a few of the scheduled events: n The parks annual Wind Festival will be May 5 and 6 from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. The wind festival draws a diverse crowd of people and wind-related objects. Some bring devices that vibrate in the wind to make music, others set up rows and rows of colorful flags and, of course, there are kites of all shapes and sizes. n A world championship blacksmithing competition will be held June 15 through 17, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Professional smiths from around to world to compete and to turn ordinary blocks of metal into works of art. n The annual Wildlife West Music Festival will be July 20 through the 22. This years festival will feature The Quebe Sisters and The Byron Berline Band. Festivals often include contests, jam sessions, workshops, and more. n The Harvest Festival celebrates local traditions, and agriculture. The festival not only shows off some great old farm and ranch equipment, but also includes music, and vendors. The festival will be on Aug. 25 and 26 from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. each day. n In July, the park will hostd a local growers market. For more information go to www.wildlifewest.org.

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Family Fun and Frights at the Patch Getting Around


Moriarty Established in 1887 and named for an original homesteader. Settlers were dryland farmers, but today you see pivot irrigation rigs and alfalfa, feed corn, wheat, pinto beans, pumpkins and other crops. The New Mexico Central depot was completed in 1903, and traces of the old railroad bed remain. Moriarty has a museum, 212 motel rooms, 10 restaurants and two truck stops. The Albuquerque Soaring Club is based at the Moriarty airport. The city is named after Michael Moriarty who stopped on his way to California and never left. Moriarty is known for housing stranded Interstate 40 motorists in winter.

Although there are many things to do at McCalls Pumpkin Patch including a haunted corn maze and haunted barn the main attraction is the orange orbs.

inus would agree, McCalls Pumpkin Patch would be a prime location for The Great Pumpkin to appear. Each year, Kevin and Kirsten McCall open their gate to the public to take a hay ride to a field of pumpkins and search for the best one for carving, soup, pie or just to use as a bright orange decoration. The couple also scrambles like mad to put the finishing touches on their haunted farm, corn maze and to add something new to help draw a crowd. They built a small town a couple years ago for the little ones to run around, play a banker, jailor, prisoner, or possibly pretend to be a soda jerk at the little saloon. Theres also a new, downright freaky

addition called Curtain Chaos. Its a maze of curtains that people are expected to voluntarily enter, knowing that somewhere theres a clown in there, according to Kirsten. The object seems to be to find the door and get out as quickly as possible, hopefully avoiding any contact whatsoever with the clown. It should be fun, she said. Apparently she was serious. The McCalls are also changed the layout for the haunted barn the farms version of a haunted house. The couple say they try to make gradual changes every year, so that previous visitors will always find something new. Weve been hard at it, said Kevin.

In what may be a familiar story for any married man, he smiled and said hes working to shorten Kirstens list of tasks to get done around the farm. He said this year, theyre hoping to build a giant fort, something like a castle, for youngsters to run around in and fight off endless waves of imaginary invading hordes. McCalls Pumpkin Patch is on the west side of Moriarty and just north of Interstate 40. It will open on Saturday. It is open each October for daytime activities on Saturdays and Sundays from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., with the last ticket sold at 4 p.m. For more information, hours and location, go to mccallpumpkinpatch.com or call 832-9137.

52 The East Mountains & Estancia Valley 2012-13 Visitors Guide

f theres anything going on in the Estancia Valley, its usually happening at the Moriarty Civic Center. Built in 2001 as a community and convention center, the civic center plays host to numerous events throughout the year, including arts and crafts shows, collectors shows and the annual Writers for Literacy, which attracts numerous authors to Moriarty to benefit the local adult literacy program. Each year, the area soil and water conservation districts as well as the Torrance County Extension Agency hosts a farming event attended by the areas school children. The civic center also is host to weddings, funerals, high school dances, local government meetings, seminars, lectures and conventions. The 7,627 square foot building also is home to the Moriarty Community Library and the Moriarty Historical Museum. The center was designed to accommodate both large and small gatherings, with a banquet hall that will seat 400 and smaller break-out rooms that can accommodate smaller lectures or meetings. The large room has a world-class acoustic design that works well with PA systems brought in, or the centers equipment. The center has a large working kitchen with heavy-duty stoves and ovens, a walk-in refrigerator, stainless steel freezer, large work tables and an icemaker. For more information on the center, contact Jace Alderson at (505)832-1719 or go online to www.cityofmoriarty.org.

Civic Center Host to Many Events

If theres something going on, more than likely its being held at the Moriarty Civic Center.

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very child likes a treasure hunt, and many adults do to. Thats why letterboxing and geocaching has become so popular, and there are plenty of spots in the East Mountains and Estancia Valley with hidden treasure. Harold Stevens and his wife, Pat, whose trail names are Wronghat and semicolon, respectively, have been searching for and placing letterboxes for over two years. Harold says they have found 108 boxes, but have hunted for 125. They have found boxes in Arizona, California, Colorado, Texas and Massachusetts. They searched for one in Vietnam, only to find it had been washed away by a typhoon. The best part of letterboxing for the Stevens is the hunt. It takes us to funky places we normally speed by, he said. For example, we were rushing to Phoenix on the interstate when we noticed some boxes had been planted in Tonto National Park outside of Showlow. So we took a left at Holbrook and were taken on a hunt beside a beautiful sparkling creek in the forest of central Arizona. Letterboxing and its kissing cousin, geocaching has been around since 1854, when it started in England. The modern form of it makes use of the Internet to spread the word of where letterboxes are located. A letterbox is a small container, hopefully waterproof, that is hidden somewhere in a public location and contains a stamper and a small notebook. The stamper is for those who find the letterbox to make a record of the find in their own logbook. The small notebook in the container is for the letterbox hunter to leave their own original stamp in, along with the date they were there and their trail name. Geocaching works along the same principal only that participants hide their stash a small trinket of some sort and post online its geographic coordinates. Other participants find it using a GPS, take the trinket

Find a Treasure, Leave a Note

Letterboxing and geocaching are both fun ways for travelers to get to know an area. Most sites have a log book where visitors can leave an entry.

and leave one of their own. Many geocaching sites are shared by letterboxers. Letterboxing, though, depends on the stamps. Your own stamp can even be something you hand carved, which is a way to show off artistic talent even if you dont have any artistic talent, it is still fun for fellow letterboxers just to see what you have created. The great thing about letterboxing for the Stevens, though, is that they have just as much fun even when the search turns up nothing. There is a letterbox listed for Two Guns, Arizona, just off of I-40 west of Winslow. We stopped to get it, and it is completely deserted. Apparently in the boom times of Route 66 it was quite the tourist trap but nobody is to be found there now, Stevens said. Planting a letterbox is fun, too. The Stevenses have planted 45 boxes of their own, as far away as Vietnam and the Dominican Republic (which was removed by a nonboxer, which is always a hazard). When we hide letterboxes, we try to take

people to interesting spots. Sometimes the spot is historical like old Route 66, or maybe it is a site of natural beauty, like the Turquoise Trail, or Angel Peak in northwestern New Mexico. We like letterboxes that say, Stop. Slow down. Look at this beautiful thing that you almost rushed by. Its a cool life if you notice, he said. For those with younger children, searching for letterboxes provides an opportunity for exercise, fresh air, and inexpensive family activity, as well as a chance for the kids to practice following instructions and lessons on how to read maps. The Web is full of ways to start letterboxing, but good beginning sources are atlasquest.com and letterboxing. org. Geocaching is usually for folks who are more content to go off the beaten path. A good place to look online for location is www.geocaching.com. There are about 70 geocache locations in the Sandia Mountains alone.

54 The East Mountains & Estancia Valley 2012-13 Visitors Guide

hrough years of hard work, New Mexico has made progress in the scourge of DWI. Despite the efforts, though, people are still killed on our roads, leaving behind survivors who struggle through questions of what might have been. Since 2007, the National New Mexico DWI Victims Memorial of Perpetual Tears has been a place where families can find some solace in the senselessness of their loss. It also is a place to find hope. The park was the brainchild of Moriarty native Sonja Britton, whose son was killed in 1991 by a drunk driver. Britton decided that a memorial for all innocent victims of DWI in New Mexico would help fill the void in her heart. Britton began stirring up support from other victims, families and even the state Legislature. Labor and supplies were donated at little or no cost from several local businesses. The land for the memorial was donated by the Anaya family of Moriarty. The memorial, north of Interstate 40 and just west of N.M. 41, is a field of headstones created by Britton featured a stream of tears running down its face. Each headstone symbolizes one DWI-related death from the previous five years in New Mexico. At the end of each year, the number of headstones will be adjusted to show the most recent trend in statistics. Several events are held at the memorial throughout the year, and its board has expanded its mission to include education. For more information, visit www.dwimemorialofperpetualtears.org.

A Place For Tears and Hope

Headstones at the New Mexico National DWI Victims Memorial of Perpetual Tears is illuminated at night to signify a life that was saved because someone decided not to drink and drive.

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The air currents in the Estancia Valley make Moriarty an ideal place for soaring.

Moriarty Home to Gliders Galore and Museum


valley create a desert thermal that gives anything with wings a nice lift. The Moriarty Municipal Airport serves as the base for glider enthusiasts from far and wide. On nearly any day visitors can ride out to the airport and watch as the gliders line up for their turn to be towed aloft. Sundance Aviation at the Moriarty Airport offers glider rides to the public. Folks who have been soaring over the area in gliders for the past 30 years thought Moriarty would also be the perfect place for a museum celebrating free flight, and they set out to build it. The Southwest Soaring Museum opened its doors at the Moriarty Municipal Airport in 1996, only the second museum of its type in the country. George Applebay, president of the museum, said the Moriarty-based Albuquerque Soaring Club started working on a museum in 1990 but didnt get much support from the Soaring Society of America, which has a museum in New York. In 1996, the national Soaring Society decided it was time to consider opening a museum in the West, and Moriarty was at the top of the list, Applebay said. We had already done a lot of the work, he said.
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he Estancia Valley is known around New Mexico for its pinto beans, pumpkins and friendly folks. But the area has a much wider reputation for something else: soaring. A convergence of factors has made the valley, and Moriarty in particular, an internationally known center for this pastime. All day long in the summer, and often for much of the rest of the year, tow planes can be heard pulling the silent aircraft into the sky. When local residents hear this, they often look skyward and wait for the quiet birds to be released on the long and winding trip back to Earth. The cool nights and warm days in the

56 The East Mountains & Estancia Valley 2012-13 Visitors Guide

Racing Sailplanes Presents Challenges

lbuquerque has its balloon fiesta and now Moriarty is building on a different event that keeps peoples eyes skyward. The second annual Soaring Society of America Region 9 Super Regional Sailplane Race will be held June 11 through June 16 at the Moriarty Airport. The event is sponsored by the Albuquerque Soaring Club and hosted by Sundance Aviation in Moriarty. Each day of the competition, pilots will be expected to complete a 200 to 300 mile course with several turn points that may be as far north as Alamosa, Colo. And as far south as Alamogordo; west to Grants and east to Santa Rosa, said Connie Buenafe, an organizer of the event. Some may not make it back to Moriarty, though, Buenafe said. Then theyll have to land wherever they can. Granted, its not fun to wait for sailplanes to land at the airport, but Buenafe said that visitors will get a kick out of the daily take off, when numerous sailplanes head for the skies being dragged by small airplanes.
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Sundance Aviation is hosts the Region 9 Super Regional Sailplane Race each June at the Moriarty Airport. Its really fun to watch all the planes The challenge of the race is to head take off so quickly, she said. toward locations marked by a beacon, Beginning around 11 a.m. The morn- make your turn and go to the next one, ing of each day of the event, the gliders Buenafe said. will begin to line up at the launch point in More than 40 teams competed last year, anticipation of conditions to be favorable and Buenafe said she expects the event to for soaring. Once given the OK, they start continue growing. going up and will reach heights of 2,000 The Moriarty Airport is one of the best feet above the airport. places in the country to do this, she said.

Applebay, along with Col. Clay Keen, were the first inductees into the Moriarty Aviation Hall of Fame in 2010. The Moriarty museum collection includes several rare sailplanes such as a Hummingbird motorglider designed and built by noted aircraft designer Ted Nelson in 1954. The glider, which Applebay said is a progenitor of modern gliders, is one of only about 20 Nelson built. One goal of the museum, Applebay said, is showing people and especially children the progression of glider technology over the last 100 years. We want to bring busloads of schoolchildren (to the museum) at minimal cost to be exposed to gliding development and their flying efficiency, Applebay said.

The museum will also sponsor research for solar-powered aviation. Applebay said the Estancia Valley is a prime area for solar flight because the sun heats soil enough that small cyclones are created. These small cyclones can rise 20,000 feet above sea level, allowing gliders to fly in circles and gain altitude, he said. In addition to the planes, volunteers have amassed a collection of photographs, literature and documents relating to glider planes throughout the years. Applebay said one area of the museum will be dedicated to the literature, while the photographs will be displayed on walls. For more information, contact the museum at 832-9222 or 832-0755, or visit the Web site at www.swsoaringmuseum. org.

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f youve never been to Moriarty in October, you dont know beans. Residents of the Estancia Valley do. Pinto beans were a huge cash crop for the valley in the early 20th century, and Mountainair was known as the Pinto Bean Capital of the World. Bean crops in the Estancia Valley arent as extensive today as they once were. Seventy years ago, beans were planted on dozens of farms from Stanley to Claunch. Now, according to U.S. Department of Agriculture figures, less than 1,000 acres in New Mexico are dedicated to growing pinto beans - most of that in the Estancia Valley. Residents from throughout the valley and beyond come together in Moriarty each fall to celebrate the areas relationship with the local legume at the annual Moriarty Pinto Bean Fiesta. The bean fiesta will take place on Oct. 13 in 2012. Festivities start with a pancake breakfast at the City Park and generally include fun runs, a pinto bean cookoff, music, games, a rodeo and a parade all to remind everyone of the important role the pinto bean has played in the valley. After being moved to Crossley Park a couple of years ago due to renovations at City Park, the bean fiesta has returned to its traditional home. The improvements at City Park have made the festival even more visitor friendly. A large grassy area at City Park is ringed with booths selling everything from arts and crafts to food as a day-long lineup of bands entertains the traditionally large crowds. Children can enjoy the new playground area, and nearby ballfields are usually in use too. The Estancia Valley was the primary pinto bean source for the rest of the country before drought and a falling market nearly destroyed bean farming in the val-

Moriarty Celebrates its Agricultural Tradition

New Mexicans know that when you want pinto beans, you come to the annual Pinto Bean Fiesta to stock up for the year.

ley during the 1950s. They used to stack beans in the streets of Mountainair waiting to put them on the train, said Gary Thomas, whose family has been growing beans in the valley for nearly 100 years. Since then, many farmers have been forced to sell out or switch to other crops, such as silage corn. Now only a handful of Estancia Valley farmers grow pinto beans, and many other states produce more pinto beans more cheaply. Thomas along with Moriartys Schwebach Farms, which dedicates part of its acreage to growing beans have developed a niche market for Estancia Valley beans. Local farmers say Estancia Valley pinto beans are higher in quality that most other

pinto beans because of New Mexicos dry climate and the high altitude. Because of those qualities, local farmers say they dont have to go looking for a market to sell their beans the market comes to them. Individual customers drive to Moriarty from Albuquerque, Santa Fe and other parts of the state each fall to get beans. Many are also sold to restaurants and food manufacturers in New Mexico. And of course some people simply plan a trip to the annual Pinto Bean Fiesta to pick up their yearly supply of beans. Local farmers package beans in small one-pound bags as well as 25-pound sacks. For more information on the Pinto Bean Fiesta, contact the Moriarty Chamber of Commerce at 832-4087.

58 The East Mountains & Estancia Valley 2012-13 Visitors Guide

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hat started as a novel way to break through the hard surface of Moriartys Heritage Rodeo Arena has now taken on a life of its own. The second annual Mudd Mania will be held at the arena on June 2 and 3 an expansion of the single day event it was in its inaugural year in 2011. We were surprised last year in the interest in the event, said Larry Irvin, the person behind Mudd Mania. We hoped to get at least 50 entries and ended up with 74. Mudd Mania is a good ol fashioned mud bog, with racers in five categories competing for prize money. Irvin points out, though, that most people who build and compete in mud bog events do it more for the fun of it. For the first time in 2012, Mudd Mania will serve as the state championship for Dawgpound Mud Racing. Races on June 2 will serve as qualifiers for the championship races on June 3, Irvin said. Irvin said he struck upon the idea for Mudd Mania as he dealt with the hard pan that would develop in the rodeo arena as it was used for rodeos, then get hit by rain, snow and wind. The only way to get the arena in shape for rodeos, he said, is to tear up the dirt and rebuild it. And what better way to do that than have mud boggers do it for you? It really serves the community well and helps us keep the arena in shape, Irvin said.

Good Dirty Fun For the Whole Family

You have to be careful where you stand at a mud race. The second Mudd Mania will be held at Moriartys Heritage Arena on June 2 and 3.

The first year was a good experience in pulling off such an event, but Irvin said he hasnt been content to keep it the same. For the second year, prize winnings have been doubled. And if you go out only expecting giant vehicles spitting mud into the air, think again. There also will be monster truck rides, jumpers for the kids, plenty of vendors, a kids foot mud race with prizes and a tug-o-war. The proceeds from Mudd Mania will go back into making improvements at the arena, says Irvin. For one thing, he would like to see some covers to provide shade for the stands. The messy fun starts on June 2 at 10 a.m. Admission is $10 for adults, $5 for children ages 5-16, and children under 5 are free. For more information, go online to www.cityofmoriarty.org.

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he East Mountains and Estancia Valley play host to a variety of community events and festivals throughout the year. From kite flying in the spring and old-fashioned Fourth of July celebrations each summer, to Punkin Chunkin in the fall and Christmas light parades in the winter, theres always something fun happening. Heres a sampling of some of the special occasions that give the region its flavor:

The parade is just one part of the citys annual Fourth of July celebration, which is organized and sponsored each year by the Moriarty Chamber of Commerce. The usual schedule of events includes a pancake breakfast, music events throughout the day, food and game booths, arts and crafts and a fireworks show - weather and fire danger permitting. A Youth Rodeo is always held on the holiday weekend at the Moriarty Heritage Rodeo Arena. Wind Festival For more information, contact the Traditionally held on the first weekend Moriarty Chamber of Commerce at 832in May at Wildlife West Nature Park in 4087. Edgewood, the annual Wind Festival fills the skies over the town with colorful kites Torrance County Fair of all sizes, shapes and descriptions. Every August, things are in full swing Members from the American Kiters at the annual Torrance County Fair. Association often participate, with kites Steers, pigs, sheep, rabbits and chickens, that are custom made, one of a kind, big along with pickles, dresses, photographs and wonderful to watch. Huge banners are and arts and crafts, will be on display at the also erected with fun designs and scenes county fairgrounds in Estancia for the 2012 that can be viewed as a panoramic land- fair from Aug. 7-13. scape. Throughout the week are sheep, goat, Visitors see kites hooked into series and cattle and swine shows. 4-H youths work flown like trains or hooked together so all year raising their livestock to take centhey fly in huge arch shapes. A wide vari- ter stage at the county fair. The animals are ety of imaginative, individual kite shapes, on display in the fair barns as they wait for along with an 80-foot long octopus kite, their time in the show ring. have marked past festivals. The junior rodeo provides thrills and Admission is free but there is an admis- spills at the county fairgrounds rodeo sion charge for visitors to go into the park arena. to experience the varied species of native The big finale for the Torrance County New Mexico wildlife. Fair includes a colorful parade and the Contact the park for more information annual 4-H council barbecue. at 281-7655. The junior livestock sale begins at 3 p.m. in the show ring, where youths can Fourth of July pick up some well-deserved payback for Hundreds and hundreds of children are their months of hard work in raising their among the thousands of people who annu- animals. Between 25 and 30 youths make ally line Old Route 66 in Moriarty for the it into the sale, and it is not uncommon for citys annual Old-Fashioned Fourth of July the total amount spent on livestock to be Parade. more than $100,000. The parade traditionally starts at 10 A country western dance traditionally a.m. down the citys main thoroughfare. closes out the busy fair week.

Theres Always Something Going On!

Christmas in Madrid Madrid, a former mining town turned artist haven, is known for its enthusiastic Christmas spirit, and annual festivities continue the tradition of holiday merriment. The fun includes traditional favorites such as stagecoach rides and a visit from Santa Claus as well as a holiday parade down the quaint main street. Visitors will find plenty of merriment and wonder during each of the first three weekends in December. Santa Claus is on hand each weekend, and as always hes a mainstay of the parade that marks the first weekend of festivities. Additionally, the towns residents are busy decorating their homes and businesses with hundreds of lights. Christmas light displays fire up at dusk sometimes even earlier all over the historic town. 2012 fair from Aug. 12-18. Many local businesses serve refreshments on Friday and Saturday evenings, while live music and other entertainment is scheduled at the landmark Mine Shaft Tavern. For information on whos playing, call the Mine Shaft at 473-0743. Christmas Light Parades Christmas lights have traditionally been an attraction that families piled into the car and drove around town to view. Lately, though, that tradition has been reversed. Now people line the streets and watch as the Christmas lights go parading by. Estancia has kicked off the Christmas season for years with its annual Torrance County Christmas Safety Lights Parade and Craft Fair, traditionally held on the second Saturday in December. Starting in 2003, Moriarty joined in the festive tradition with a Christmas Light
Continued on page 61

60 The East Mountains & Estancia Valley 2012-13 Visitors Guide

Continued from page 60

Festival of its own. Moriartys version kicks off with a light parade on the first weekend of December and continues with a variety of events and activities through the middle of the month. Moriarty also lights up Crossley Park each Christmas, thanks to the Rotary and Lions clubs. If you visit, you can hear great music, sip a hot beverage and talk to Santa Claus. Handels Messiah Each October, a loosely organized group of about 100 volunteers gathers to prepare for what has become a treasured holiday season tradition in the East Mountains. By December, these volunteers -- the singers, orchestra musicians and helpers that make up the East Mountain Community Chorus -- are rehearsed and ready to conduct free performances of the Christmas-season classic, Handels Messiah. East Mountain Community

Chorus singers range in age from preteens to senior citizens. Singers of all experience levels are welcome to join the chorus, although auditions are required for those wishing to sing a solo part. In recent years, the chorus has numbered more than 70 singers with an orchestra of about 15 musicians, many of them youths. Most of them live in the East Mountains, and entire East Mountains families join in the singing of the Messiah. No admission is charged for the concerts, but in the longstanding tradition of the Messiah, a free-will offering is collected at each of the evening presentations. After paying expenses, all remaining proceeds are divided equally between two selected charities. Bicycling The Paula Higgins Memorial Time Trials are held each Labor Day weekend. The trials pits racers against the

clock in what is billed as the fastest 40 kilometer course in the country. And the event attracts riders from all over the world. Even racing legend Lance Armstrong has been to the trials. The course is simple, ride from Moriarty to Estancia on N.M. 41 and then come back. World records are known to fall. If you are more into off-road bicycling, both the Manzano and Sandia mountains provide the backdrop for several competitions throughout the year. If you arent into racing but still enjoy riding, you wouldnt be the only one out on the trails and roads in the East Mountains and Estancia Valley. For more information on competitive riding, go online to nmcycling.org. Sunflower Festival Each August, the folks in Mountainair spend a day celebrating the colorful sunflower

with the Sunflower Festival, sponsored by the Manzano Mountain Arts Council. This years event will be held on . Shops open their doors and everyone is invited to walk around Mountainair looking and participating in arts. There is music and poetry readings; there is even a contest for those with the best sunflower hat. For more information, go online to www.manzanomountainartcouncil.org Old Timers Day Each year, the town of Estancia pulls out the stops to celebrate our living heritage the people who built the Estancia Valley. Kicking off with a parade and turning into a party at the town park, Old Timers Day is a town-wide class reunion. The event is usually held the last weekend in July. Contact the town offices for more information.

Find Us On The Web


Get more information about the East Mountains and Estancia Valley online at these sites: GOVERNMENT City of Moriarty www.cityofmoriarty.org Town of Estancia www.townofestancia.com Torrance County www.torrancecountynm.com Town of Edgewood www.edgewood-nm.gov. CHAMBERS OF COMMERCE Mountainair Chamber of Commerce mountainairchamber.com. East Mountain Chamber of Commerce www.eastmountainchamber.com. Edgewood Chamber of Commerce www.edgewoodchambernm.com. Moriarty Chamber of Commerce www.moriartychamber.com. Estancia Valley Economic Development Association www.evedanm.com. SOMETHING TO DO New Mexico Route 66 Association www.rt66nm.org. Rockin Horse Ranch www.rockinhorseranch.net Wildlife West Nature Park www.wildlifewest.org. Tinkertown www.tinkertown.com. Single Action Shooting Society -- www.sassnet.org. New Mexico Mountain Climbing mountainproject.org. Salinas Mission National Monument www.nps.gov/sapu. Cibola National Forest www.fs.fed.us/r3/cibola. Southwest Soaring Museum www.swsoaringmuseum.org. McCalls Pumpkin Patch www.mccallpumpkinpatch.com. Sandia Peak Ski Area www.sandiapeak.com. Turquoise Trail National Scenic Byway www.turquoisetrail.org. Albuquerque Experimental Aircraft Association www.eaa179.com. Land of Enchantment Fly In www.landofenchantmentflyin.org.

And keep up with all the news in the Estancia Valley and East Mountains at www.mvtelegraph.com

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Mark Your Calendar


JUNE June 2 & 3 The Moriarty Mudd Mania monster truck event, Heritage Arena, Moriarty. June 2 & 3 Fiber Farm and Studio Tour, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., 286-8900. June 10 Gymkhana, Mountainair. Information: 384-6044 or 847-0535. June 15-17 World Blacksmith Championships, Wildlife West Nature Park, Edgewood. June 16 Moriarty FFA Alumni Roping, Heritage Arena, Moriarty. June 16 & 17 New Mexico Junior Rodeo Association Rodeo in Mountainair. For info, call Red Kingston at 859-8413, or go to www.nmjra.net. June 17 Ninth annual Fathers Day Car Show, Valley View Church at N.M. 344 and Dinkle Road in Edgewood. June 22-24 Single Action Shooters Society End of Trail World Championship at Founders Ranch in Edgewood, www.sassnet.com. June 22 & 23, 7 p.m. both days Con Ganas Bull Riding Challenge at Torrance County Fairgrounds in Estancia. Call Antonio Ortiz at 7054025 for info. June 24 Gymkhana, Mountainair. Information: 384-6044 or 847-0535. June 24, 1 p.m. Bar-Diamond-S Arena Jackpot Bull Riding in Yrisarri. For info, call 281-8860. June through November Multiple events at Rockin Horse Ranch Arenas indoor venue, north of Moriarty. They include New Mexico Cutting Horse Association competitions, the RHR Barrel Racing series with its finals on Nov. 10-11, New Mexico Paint Horse Association shows, and the National Barrel Horse Association state finals on Oct. 12-14. See www.rockinhorseranch.org. July 29 Chilili Bull-A-Rama. Call Park. Evening shows Friday and Santos Garcia, Chilili Rodeo Club Sunday, matinees Saturday and president, at 269-4442 for info on all Sunday. Information: 281-7655. JULY of the Chilili Land Grants rodeos. July 1 Escobosa Riders Club OCTOBER Rodeos. Call Victor Herrera, club AUGUST Oct. 13 Annual Pinto Bean Fiesta, president, at 453-3430 or 866-5484. Aug.4 Bernalillo County 4-H Moriarty City Park and Heritage July 4 July 4th Festival including Rodeo, Heritage Arena, Moriarty. Arena. Information: 832-4087. Traditional Fourth of July Parade Aug. 5 Escobosa Riders Club Oct. 20 Moriarty FFA Alumni Ropand rodeo, Moriarty. Information: Rodeos. Call Victor Herrera, club ing, Heritage Arena, Moriarty. 832-4087. president, at 453-3430 or 866-5484. October Celebrate Wildlife New July 4 Community Fellowship Aug. 11 Edgewoods Run, Rally Mexico and Fall Festival, Wildlife Fourth of July, Estancia. Fireworks and Rock. Information: 505-286West Nature Park, Edgewood. subject to fire conditions. 2577. Information: 281-7655. July 3 Firecracker Jubilee, Aug. 12 Chilili Rodeo Club ranch- Oct. 20 Estancia Pumpkinfest feaMountainair. Old-fashioned Indestyle rodeos. turing Punkin Chunkin competition, pendence Day celebration. Pancake Aug. 12-17 Torrance County Fair, Estancia. Information: 384-2708. breakfast, parade, fireworks, Estancia. Information: 246-4745. barbecue at the park, ranch rodeo Aug. 17, 10 a.m. Torrance County DECEMBER at the rodeo grounds. Information: Fair Junior Rodeo. Call Shiver, who Dec. 1 Festival of Lights includ847-2795. is also the new fair board president, ing kickoff Light Parade and open houses all over town, Moriarty. July (TBA) Bear Fair, Wildlife at 220-8555. West Nature Park, Edgewood. Aug. 18 & 19 (tentative) NM Ter- Festival of Lights Family CelebraInformation, 281-7655. ritories Mounted Shooting, Heritage tion with Santa Claus, Civic Center. Information: 832-4087. July 7 & 8 Ron Wiseman Rodeo, Arena, Moriarty. December Estancia Christmas Heritage Arena, Moriarty Aug. 25 Moriarty FFA Alumni Light Parade and Craft Show, EstanJuly 8 Gymkhana, Mountainair. Roping, Heritage Arena, Moriarty. cia. Information: 384-2708. Information: 384-6044 or 847-0535. Aug. 25 Sunflower Festival, July 8 Chilili Rodeo Club ranchMountainair. Arts and crafts, music, TBA East Mountain Chamber of Commerces annual Breakfast style rodeos. barbecue, 10th annual Poets and with Santa, Los Vecinos Community July 14 Moriarty FFA Alumni Writers Picnic, dance. Information: Center. Call 281-1999. Roping, Heritage Arena, Moriarty. 847-2795. TBA Annual Holiday Fair, MounJuly 20-22 Music Festival Aug. 25-26 Harvest Festival at tainair. Holiday craft show, parade, featuring music, food and vendors. Wildlife West. Information: 286tree lighting and more. 847-2321. Wildlife West Nature Park, Edge4518. wood. Information: 281-7655. JANUARY July 22 Gymkhana, Mountainair. SEPTEMBER TBA The 11th annual Sandia Sept. 2 Escobosa Riders Club Information: 384-6044 or 847-0535. Mountain Snowshoe Race, www. July 28 (tentative) NM Territories Rodeos. Call Victor Herrera, club president, at 453-3430 or 866-5484. sandiasnowshoe.com. Mounted Shooting, Day of the Sept. 9 Chilili Rodeo Club ranch- MAY Cowboy Jackpot shoot, Heritage style rodeos. TBA Edgewood Wind and Kite Arena, Moriarty. Sept. 5 Moriarty FFA Alumni Rop- Festival. Usually held the first July 28, 9 a.m. Old Timers Day ing, Heritage Arena, Moriarty. weekend of May at Wildlife West Rodeo at Torrance County FairSeptember Annual Edgewood Nature Park. grounds. Call Jada Shiver, rodeo Melodrama at Wildlife West Nature superintendent, at 220-8555.

62 The East Mountains & Estancia Valley 2012-13 Visitors Guide

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Moriarty Branch | 1401 Route 66 | Moriarty, NM 87035 | 505-832-5510

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