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Modern Pattern Design 1942

Modern Pattern Design 1942

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Published by: Bolude Ayobolu Solaja on Jul 02, 2012
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10/19/2013

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1942—Modern Pattern Design
by Harriet Pepin
 
Chapter 1—Pattern Designing
 
Description of Equipment 
 
As the doctor, sculptor or artist should understand the purpose of varioustools and equipment common to his profession, it is equally important that thepatternmaker understands the purpose for which his equipment has beendesigned.Most of the following articles may be purchased at art supply houses,tailor's supply firms or at the notion departments in retailstores:1.
 
Triangle:
The transparent right triangle isuseful in pattern making to "square" acorner. The two smaller points will serve toestablish a true bias from a vertical orhorizontal line. Diagrams in problems whichfollow illustrate how this is done.In the study of geometry we learn that a triangle must total 180degrees. This right triangle has two 45 degree angles and one90 degree angle.2.
 
Tracing Wheel:
This clever instrument saveshours of needless labor of thread marking. Itis used to transfer lines or symbols from onepattern to another or from the final pattern tothe muslin or fabric. When the test muslinsare being made by the designer, ordinarypencil carbon may be used. When actualgarments are being cut, white carbon or chalk boards are used.These markings can be easily removed later.3.
 
Carbon Boards:
A suitable carbon board canbe made by purchasing a 24 × 36 sheet of pencil carbon from an art supply house. Thisshould be laid, face upward, upon a similarsize piece of heavy cardboard or ply board.Then a length of cheese cloth is laid over andsecurely fastened to the back of the board with gum tape or
 
thumb tacks. The cheese cloth keeps the carbon paper fromtearing or wrinkling and will prolong its usefulness.A chalk board is made by purchasing powdered chalk,moistening it with water and "painting" several coats uponcompo, paper surfaced board. This is then covered with cheesecloth. If white carbon is used, the board would be made in thesame manner as a muslin carbon board.4.
 
Pins:
Various sizes of dressmakers' pins may bepurchased by the pound at the tailor's supply housesor notion departments of stores. The designer shouldhave various sizes on hand for varying weights of fabrics.5.
 
Pencils:
A medium hard lead pencil, a rathersoft lead pencil and an eraser should be inyour tool kit. A red and blue crayon pencil isalso useful for establishing lines of designand for correcting muslins. The blue isusually used for establishing the line and the red is used for allcorrections during a fitting of the muslin. Some designers usevarious colors of tailor's chalk for the same purpose. Black"graphite" is sometimes used instead of lead pencil. These flatpieces may be sharpened by rubbing acrosssandpaper.6.
 
Shears:
Eight inch paper shears should bekept for cutting light weight paper. Heavy,professional weight shears are used for cardboard patterns. Thefabric shears are kept for cutting muslin and will become dull if used for cutting paper.7.
 
Transparent Ruler:
This special ruler is foundat art supply stores. It is divided into one-eighth inch squares. As so manymeasurements in pattern making are basedupon eighths of an inch, this ruler comes intouse conveniently. It is also valuable whenestablishing seam allowances on finalpatterns.8.
 
Curve:
The Dietzgen #17 transparent curve isespecially valuable for shaping edges of curved collars, armscyes and necklines.Additional types of these curves are alsovaluable to have at the patternmaking table.
 
They may be purchased at most art supplystores.9.
 
Muslin:
An unstarched, unbleached muslin isused for muslin proofs for most garments.This may be purchased by the bolt at asaving. The weight and texture varies withgarments being designed.10.
 
Pattern Paper:
A white, tough paper, suchas that used in bakeries may be used forpreliminary patterns in manufacturing plantsand for even the final patterns in customstudios. This comes by the roll in varyingwidths at paper supply houses. It is best to use paper not toodeeply colored because pencil marks do not show up as well.About a 150 lb. weight cardboard, purchased in sheets or rolls,is used for blocks and the final pattern "markers" in most firms.Such patterns would be used repeatedly.11.
 
Square:
The tailor's square is purchased at tailorsupply houses. It is most useful when drafting thebasic block patterns from measurements. It hasvarying units of measurement, such as fifths, sixths,thirds, as well as the normal measurements of aninch found in an ordinary ruler.12.
 
Tapeline:
It is wise to purchasea good tapeline. Cheaper onesmay stretch or shrink. Some areeven inaccurately marked. It isalso wise to check all your measuring instrumentsbefore starting to work out the problems presented in this text.As the flexible tapeline is used to measure a figure or a modelform and the square and ruler are used to locate similarmeasurements when completing the pattern, discrepancieswould lead to disappointing results.13.
 
Curved Stick:
This tool is constantly in useby tailors, and it proves useful at the dressdesigner's table when establishing curves of revers, or when adding flares to gored skirtsections. It is marked for inches andfractional parts of an inch as a ruler wouldbe.

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