Cherry Creek News & Central Denver DispatCh
November 2009
Page 13
A friend of mine vacationed in
France this summer and she has been
able to talk about little else since her
return. I don\u2019t really mind, though,
because a large portion of the conversa-
tion is about food. Inevitably we decid-
ed we needed to explore our options
for French cuisine
in the Denver area.
So this month it has
been my pleasure to
explore not one, but
two fine restaurants,
Le Central and Bistro
Vendome.
Of course our
minds went first
to Le Central, the
Affordable French
Restaurant on the
corner of 8th and
Lincoln. I have dis-
cussed this in a past column, in glow-
ing terms of course, focusing on the
\u201caffordable\u201d component. They have
a changing, balanced menu that offers
everything from simple quiche to more
extravagant constructions. At lunch
you can enjoy a bowl of soup for $3 or
splurge for a $7 crepe or $9 for seared
salmon or a roasted duck-breast salad.
I always love their sandwiches because
all of the bread is made onsite. For
a whopping $15 you can throw cau-
tion to the wind and enjoy the Chef\u2019s
Menu. Today that consisted of onion
soup, cassoulet or bouillabaisse, and
cr\u00e8me caramel for dessert.
Dinner will cost a bit more, $9 - $20
per entr\u00e9e, but that is still an amazing
bargain. The dessert menu, a tantaliz-
ing array of decadence, is never more
than $5 per option, usually less. I can
highly recommend the pain perdu for
$3.95.
Le Central is located in what was
probably an old duplex bungalow. The
rooms are small and oddly configured,
there is little in terms of a waiting area,
and you should be prepared to know
your neighbors well. None of this mat-
ters, though. The food is great and the
price is right, and that is the bottom
line.
Our other site of exploration was
Bistro Vendome on Larimer Square.
This is definitely a pricier option, but
the experience, and target audience,
is decidedly different than Le Central.
First of all, Bistro Vendome is locat-
ed in a courtyard off of Larimer, so
it is removed from noise and traffic.
Their outdoor patio is one of the more
authentic European al fresco dining
environments in the Denver area, and
their interior is highly formal and ele-
gant. This is upper class dining for the
foodie and the connoisseur who wants
their meal to be an all
night event, not a precursor
t o
a movie (although Vendome does offer
a pre-theater fixed price menu for the
discerning palette).
Although Vendome does not open
for lunch, their dinner menu is still on
the affordable side.
Starters
range
from soup for $6
to Steak Tartare for
$12.50. I would
recommend the
Crepe Vendome:
roasted chicken
tomato, olives and
herbs, topped with
sauce b\u00e9arnaise
and a fried egg for
$7.50.
Entr\u00e9es
are
distinctly more
refined than you will find at Le
Central. The complicated ingredient
lists are included (necessary because
the names are in French so you will
need this translation). These are
\u201cwhole bite\u201d entr\u00e9es that suggest you
take the time to collect the perfect
bite combination on your fork to fully
appreciate the tastes. The Noix de
Saint Jacques Grilles (grilled scallops),
for instance, are rather bland on their
own. Create a bite that includes a bit
of everything on the plate: brioche,
bacon, quail egg and shaved aspara-
gus while truffle salad with smoked
tomato saffron sauce ($21), however,
and you will find your experience
very satisfying.
The desserts are a bit more adven-
turous at Bistro Vendome as well. At
$6 each you can explore some extreme-
ly creative and unique options. On
the night of our visit we tried both the
Black Mission Fig Crepe with lavender
honey ice cream and the Chocolate
Velvet Tart that ingeniously mixed
the richness of chocolate and caramel
with sea salt. This latter was so new to
me, the flavor combination so fresh, I
honestly found myself thinking about
it for days.
I can easily recommend either of
these establishments with no hesita-
tion. While they both offer many tra-
ditional French dishes, they are each
very different in terms of audience
and atmosphere. For people wanting
something nicer for lunch, a casual
and flavorful location for dinner, or a
site for a first date or a (small) gath-
ering of friends, Le Central is for
you. But if you want more of a din-
ing \u201cexperience,\u201d more formal, more
romantic, and more adventurous to
the palette you certainly want Bistro
Vendome.
Au revoir et bon appetit! ***
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