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Singaraja, Bali, Indonesia - January, 2002NO SEATBELTS, BRAKES OR BRAINS, BUT WHAT A VIEW!From "Travels in a Blue Chair" - a series of short storiesAt the beginning of 2002, I decided to go off backpacking for four months. Most ofthe trip was spent visiting those places in Australia that I hadn’t been to yet.However, I also like to use Australia as a jumping off point for more exotic sidetrips into Southeast Asia. I always get strange looks from the Australian customsagents on my return (this last time they continually checked my bags for drugs),as most backpackers will leave the country and not return again in one or twoweeks. For me, since I travel alone in my chair, there is only so much third worldthat I can handle, and at some point I need to return to a western, first worldcountry, to regain my strength and have a proper shower.I arrived in Denpasar, Indonesia on the island of Bali in the Java Sea at around10pm. The Tour East agency had stated that I would find an accessible ride to mynorthern destination however as I emerged from the airport to a hot, muggytropical evening I was met by two agents driving a high van. It was all I could doto barely stand up and then have to receive assistance up into the passenger seat.We started out on a three-hour ride to Lovina Beach on the north shore to find tomy "wheelchair friendly" resort, that I had booked through Qantas. I was extremelythirsty after not drinking during the long flight from Melbourne, and since I wasflush with 100,000 rupiah notes from the airport moneychanger, I asked if I couldspring for a round of soft drinks before we left the city. A cool bottle of popnever tasted so good.The three-hour drive up and over the mountains in the middle of the night wasscarier than a thrill ride at an amusement park. Winding along, with turns everytwo minutes or so and straight down once we got past the peak. It was too bad thatit was dark though and I couldn't see much. I did see some of the towns as wedrove through in the middle of the night. They were still quite active and theHindu influence on the island was quite evident from all the small shrines that wepassed. Bali is a bit of an anomaly in Indonesia. It is one of the last islands tohave joined the country and is the only non-Moslem island. Just after I returnedfrom my holiday there had been a terrible bombing that killed many Australian andother tourists. It was a horrible tragedy and I think that the economicramifications are still being felt even today.The arrival at 1:30am was down a long driveway to a beautiful hotel. We parked thevan and I finally disembarked hoping for a quick registration and then a niceshower before bed. The problem was that when I wheeled up to the entrance, thelobby was up nine stairs! At this point it must be said that I was not the mostgracious of tourists since I had been assured by the travel agent in Hobart thatthe facility was completely accessible. I was not happy. The manager escorted mearound the back, past the garbage scows and I struggled over all kinds of metaldebris on the ground to my room. The resort actually looked quite nice and each ofthe rooms in my area were bungalow styled townhouse units but I noticed anotherproblem that I hoped would not be evident in my unit. It was. In order to gainentry I would have to negotiate another 3 stairs! The two agents and the managerhelped me up the stairs and I gave the Qantas boys a good piece of my mind. Whatwas nice was the way they took my fury, with smiles and assurances that everythingwould be fixed to my liking. I was too tired to spend much time arguing anddecided to go in and go to sleep. I would worry about it in the morning.The next day was spent instructing the local workers on ways to build me some
 
half-baked ramps out of the only material they had, flimsy plywood. The problemwas that I still couldn't use it independently due to the steepness of the ramp,but it was better than nothing. To cap off a perfect welcome to Bali, the guestshad a party the night I arrived and had put up decorations. In the hurry of thestaff to clean up after the guests, they left the tacks on the ground near thedining area, and of course, my chair found one. I had my trusty extra tube, thatI’d bought in Noosa Beach, Queensland, and had it fixed. Eventually after days ofcomplaints, someone from Qantas came out mid-week to see what I was talking about,and agreed the stairs were a problem. You think?!Anyway, besides those problems, the place was desolate except for a few olderDutch and Swedish tourists. Lovina Beach, located near Singaraja, is not very busydue to the drive you have to take to get there and they have black sand, which isnot the favourite of tourists. It seemed to me that most of the tourists that Idid see were those who only stayed for a day or two, as part of an organized tour.I didn’t mind the remoteness one bit because it was the silence and relaxationthat I sought.The resort offered a buffet breakfast each day that was included in my package.There were some wonderfully weird Asian fruits to try, rambutan, a red hairy fruitthe size of a chestnut, that you open and reveal a white grape-like fruit, with anut inside, you only eat the white fruit. And, snake fruit, which has skin like asnake, but inside is white, but firmer, a bit like eating a sour apple. I liked ita lot. Being so close to the island of Java, of course, the coffee was the bestI've had since my days in Kenya. I ordered a cheese omelette one morning and gotan omelette, with the cheese on the side!The Qantas brochure indicated that I could rent a driver and car for a day.However, when I enquired I was informed that they don't go up to the north coast.As a way of placating another disappointment on this trip, my guide asked hisbuddies to drive me. When they arrived I wasn't so sure it was a good decision.The old beat-up van had no seat belts, no air conditioning and not much in the wayof brakes. But the two of them seemed enthusiastic and confident that they coulddo the job.As we left the resort I finally got a chance to see a bit of the localcountryside. There were plenty of motorcycles as well as cars and the blue smokecoming out of everyone’s exhaust pipes was testament to the terrible pollutionthat Asia has to deal with. The cities were quite rustic but were very well kept.Each little town or village had a sign welcoming you there and then another as youleft saying goodbye. The vegetation was very thick with trees and ferns and as weentered into the rural areas up in the hills, the foliage became lush. Ourdestination was Mt. Batur and the magnificent volcanic lake that is beneath it.From a distance we could see the mountain come into view and as we drew nearer thescenery became even more spectacular. My two hosts drove to a special lookoutpoint where I could point my camera for some great shots. As is usual in suchplaces, the vendors came out of the woodwork to ask if I needed to buy somethingto remember the moment. Actually it was a bit annoying, but I did need a t-shirtand some postcards, so I got them there and we were finally left alone to enjoythe beautiful natural landmark.My drivers, one of whom spoke excellent English, also had another destination inmind for me. I mentioned that I wanted to see some of the famous terraced ricepaddies that are reputed to rival those in Japan for beauty. We started to headback down the mountains to the Three Lakes Region and Gobleg. Yes, that is thereal name of the place, Gobleg! I loved the road signs and had no idea what was instore there. As we crossed over the top of the range of mountains, a suddenthunderstorm hit us as we were just at the end of the rainy season. I’m not
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