The Atlantic

How the Embargo Rescued Russian Food Culture

An unlikely gastronomic renaissance is under way.
Source: Liza Zhitskaya

“Try the deer heart,” Boris Akimov suggests from behind a bushy beard. My stomach sinks, but I cannot refuse: Akimov is a demigod in the Moscow food world, and we are sitting in LavkaLavka, the flagship restaurant of the LavkaLavka farmers’ cooperative. The crimson meat comes thinly sliced atop a celery puree, with a garnish of cowberry sorbet

You're reading a preview, sign up to read more.

More from The Atlantic

The Atlantic4 min read
The Window for Brexit May Already Have Closed
Parliament is delaying Johnson’s plan—and generational replacement has undercut its support.
The Atlantic4 min readPolitics
The U.S. Is Abandoning Its Interests in Brexit
The Atlantic7 min read
The ‘Messy and Angry’ Prospect of Ireland Reunifying
Changing demographics and sentiment signal that the possibility of a reunion is increasing. Yet few are prepared for what that means.