New York Magazine

Modern Mexican

Atla is designed for how New Yorkers eat now.

4/5 Stars

Atla

372 Lafayette St., at Great Jones St.

No phone

atlanyc.com

THERE’S NO SUCH thing as a perfect restaurant,” a dyspeptic old critic once admonished the Underground Gourmet, and, of course, she was right. So in acknowledgment of this fact, let’s start this review off by listing all the flaws and defects that prevent Enrique Olvera’s new Noho canteen, Atla, from achieving a state of perfection. Ready?

Since no drinks or food are served between the hours of 4 and 5 p.m., you can say that Atla, strictly speaking, is not the all-day café it

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