Saveur

Waiter, There’s Galangal in My Feijoada!

Source: At Jesus é Goês, a Goan restaurant in Lisbon, Hindu icons leap across the walls and brightly flavored Indian dishes fill the menu.

High up one of Lisbon’s interlocking hills in the neighborhood of Mouraria, where many of the city’s immigrants reside and the homes lean perilously into one another, I’m eating cracked crab on the jammed cobblestone patio of Cantinho do Aziz. It swims in a delicately scented coconut broth seasoned with piri-piri, a bright red chile common among Portugal’s Mozambican community. All around me, diners sit at tables festooned with brightly colored African cloth. Twinkle lights zigzag overhead.

Khalid Aziz’s father opened the restaurant 33 years ago, when the family first arrived from Mozambique, a country that, until its independence in 1975, had been occupied by Portugal for over four centuries. His father’s patrons were almost exclusively other Mozambican emigrants. Aziz, who shares his father’s name, took over three years ago after working in London as an interpreter. One of the first changes the junior Aziz made was to remove bitoque from the menu, a classic Portuguese steakand- eggs dish that his father had served as a gesture to the native friends his Mozambican customers would occasionally bring in.

Boi Cavalo, Hugo Brito’s restaurant in Alfama

Aziz wasn’t sure if the young, smartphonewielding, born-and-bred Portuguese clientele began to come in before or after he and his wife, Jeny, scrubbed the remaining local dishes from the menu. But they came and

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