New York Magazine

Freewheeling Ferris

The hotel restaurant that doesn’t know it is one.
Ferris

VERY GOOD

Ferris

44 W. 29th St., nr. Sixth Ave.

212-213-4420

ferrisnyc.com

THESE ARE NOT the best of times for restless, innovative cooks in the big city, especially in Manhattan, where it takes about as much cash to open a restaurant as it does to run for Congress or mount a decent-size Broadway show. If you’re Greg Proechel, who made a bit of a splash a few years back cooking a slightly elevated, off-center brand of cuisine at a trendy Lower East Side bistro called Le Turtle, maybe you’ll decide to leave the rat race behind after your initial success and open

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