Stuffed Crust

MEAT PIES FROM CANADA’S Quebec province, called are thought of much like homemade pot roast is Stateside: a simple and satisfying dish for Sunday dinner, but one that can also anchor a celebration. While the humble tourtière reigns in Montreal, its country cousin, is more dramatic. Cipaille’s deep-dish pastry is filled with game meats and the flavors of medieval France: cinnamon, clove, allspice, and nutmeg. The origins of this imposing pie are murky: Some argue its Anglo nautical heritage, comparing it to early published recipes for “sea pie,” which was developed to feed a literal boatload of British sailors. Others claim that the name refers

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