New York Magazine

Benno, by Benno

A former Per Se and Lincoln chef finds his own culinary voice—technically precise, anti-fad, refreshingly refined.


7 E. 27th St., nr. Fifth Ave.


IN ACCORDANCE WITH the fashions of this scattered, unpredictable, increasingly stratified dining age, there’s a little something for everyone at the various dining “concepts” (the website’s words, not mine) that Jonathan Benno has cooked up for the new ownership of the Evelyn Hotel on 27th Street in Nomad. There’s a bakery and “pasticceria” up front where you can sip espresso and fresh fruit juices and ogle long, paddle-shaped Roman-style focaccia under glittering glass displays. Farther down the lobby, there’s the boisterous, Roman-inspired Leonelli Taberna, which was serving a jumble of accessible rustico-style

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