New York Magazine

Best of New York Eating

Vegan Arabic sandwiches, Hunan charcuterie, and French onion soup.

Pizza Slice

JOE & PAT’S

168 First Ave., nr. 10th St. 212-677-4992

Getting a slice of pizza used to be a breeze. With the exception of Di Fara, where the waits were epic (and still are), you got your grease fix with a minimal amount of effort and hardly any wear and tear on your feet and your psyche. That’s changed. Now the trend in pizza slices is toward pain and suffering. If you want to tuck into a slab from Prince Street or Paulie Gee’s or Upside or Mama’s Too!, you’ve got to get in line like a Black Tap–milkshake addict, then fight for a sliver of space in which to eat it. Sure, the quality has improved, but what price pepperoni slice? The antidote to this masochistic movement can be found not at a slice joint but at the East Village pizza-restaurant spinoff of Staten Island’s Joe & Pat’s, where excellent under-the-radar slices are served on paper plates at the copper-topped bar from noon to 6 p.m. on weekdays. The crust is crisp, the sauce sweet, the cheese creamy, and the mood civilized. You’ ll never miss the mob scene.

Burger

OXOMOCO

128 Greenpoint Ave., nr. Manhattan Ave., Greenpoint; 646-688-4180

Every year, all sorts of random new burgers pop up around town, but how many of these are named Hamburguesa Pambazo, after the giant, famously filling sandwiches sold on the streets of Mexico City? How many are constructed with eight-ounce patties of prime dry-aged beef (flame-broiled over a legitimate wood-fire grill) and a soft, sesame-speckled brioche bun? And how many are dressed not with ketchup, or a pickle or two, but with smoked onions, melted queso

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