New York Magazine

21st-Century Tiki

A precisely jiggered blend of kitsch and finesse elevates the form.
Jeepney’s ube mai tai.

“TIKI” MEANS MANY THINGS: the style of tropical-escape-themed bar pioneered by Donn Beach and Victor Bergeron in mid-20th-century California; once closely guarded recipes emphasizing rum (often multiple rums), Caribbean ingredients like falernum and tropical juices, and spice-infused syrups; and, of course, the Polynesian religious totem co-opted, in sometimes questionable taste, as drinking vessel and design motif. Its popularity has

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